#don't allow your dog access to cat poop then. | Explore Tumblr posts and blogs

muttsmischiefacademysblog · 3 years ago

Text

Puppy Biting

The ultimate guide to Puppy Biting

Puppies do not bite out of aggression or being malicious, they do this as a form of communication and as a way of exploring the environment.

Puppy Biting is really frustrating and upsetting for owners, especially when you haven't had a puppy before or in such a long time or you have children.

Lots of people think that because puppies draw blood and growl the puppy is aggressive.

This is a common misconception, puppies have razor sharp teeth and they hurt us. This is why they draw blood because their teeth are literally like needles, this is another reason their mum is so keen on them being weaned as these painful teeth begin to come through and why a lot of mums tell the puppies off when the puppies attempt to latch when they have teeth.

Basic biology also explains this. When a human punches through glass it is not the punching through the glass that causes bleeding. It is the pulling back. As the human pulls their hand back, the skin is torn pulling against the glass.

This is the same principle with puppies. The bleeding is because subconsciously humans pull back.

Kittens also make humans bleed and especially with their claws when treating humans legs like a scratch tree to climb up. Again the kittens teeth and claws are super sharp as these are their baby teeth.

So the sharpness of the teeth is physiological and moving onto the growling, all dogs and puppies growl and we never punish the growl.

Dogs don't only growl due to aggression, they growl like cats pur, out of contentment, they growl to initiate play, they growl during play to match arousal levels of another puppy or growl to initiate play or growl because it feels good.

We have to remember we typically have a puppy at 8 weeks old. All of these behaviours of biting typically are the worst and relentless between 8 weeks and 6 months.

Just think for a moment compared to a human baby how much pressure and expectations we place on a puppy!

We expect a lot of their mothers, that their mothers have taught them about biting, bite inhibition, toileting, and to behave straight away ready for the new owners.

Nope, the mothers teach a little bite inhibition, mothers are tending to take breaks for their own sanity and physical well being by the time the puppies are all wrestling and play fighting with one another.

The mother also doesn't teach toileting behaviours that humans want, they do stimulate the puppies bladder and bowels so that they do wee and poo. But mothers can also inadvertently teach puppies to eat their poop as many mothers eat poop to keep the area clean.

Puppies initially learn through observation which is why many puppies do this behaviour in their new homes and owners are traumatised by this.

So their mothers are not magicians in teaching them how to behave for the new owners.

They raise them and keep them warm and fed and stimulate the toileting needs. They also teach them about some behaviours and the environment. So the mothers contribute to the initial socialisation process. Not playing socialisation but exposure to the environment.

Let's also remember, not all bitches are born mothers, some puppies are unlucky enough to loose their mother during delivery, some puppies are a single or a very small litter. So less learning will occur.

So once we understand this we then turn the brunt to the Breeders, well they should of toilet trained and stopped them from biting and have trained them to be ready for their new homes.

Nope. Breeders who are good are the ones socialising the puppies to people, children, different noises, different surfaces and a program called puppy culture.

Puppy culture is too long to write about here but is a whole programme to ensure that the puppies bred are to the highest standards for health both physical and mental.

So let's start looking at a programme

Let's begin with…

What not to do with a puppy biting

Do not use any physical force or any kind of physical punishment. Even if your parents or grandparents used to smack the pup on the bum or the nose. No. A million times, no.

Do not squeal or scream. Another of the hardest Myths to debunk, do not squeal or scream or yell. Because your making your puppy deliriously excited. Your now joining in and matching how much fun they are having. Humans are not dogs and cannot imitate puppy mates or their mother. Physiologically impossible. The Hormone of excitement and stress is shared by the same hormone in both human and dogs. So the puppy cannot tell your stressed and instead tread this as excitement. We use high pitched voices with dogs and puppies to meet their audible level which creates excitement and interest in Training so when you squeal etc during biting this is what your doing. They cannot differentiate.

Do not use the crate as punishment The crate is a safe place. If your going to go down the route of Super Nanny we don't use naughty steps we do something called redirection which I will explain in the do's section.

Do not squeeze their jaw shut this is not only cruel and unnecessary but you could also cause major damage to their delicate bones and muscles.

Do not ram your fingers into their mouth. Again this is cruel and unnecessary and most likely they will bite out of fear. This is a whole other battle which you really do not want.

Do not spray them with water. This is cruel and unnecessary and puppies do not need a negative association of water. The puppy or dog that won't walk in the rain… the puppy or dog who's terrified of water and won't swim…

Do not alpha roll them. It doesn't matter what you've seen on TV pinning a puppy or a dog is cruel and again humans have no place doing this. We cannot imitate a dogs behaviour.

Do not pin them to the floor. This is cruel and terrifying.

I think the do not's can end here as I think this forms a full picture of what not to do.

What to do with a puppy biting…

Be quiet. There's no need to scream etc as above. Whenever I'm bit by a puppy or even an aggressive dog. I'm quiet. Being quiet is the best thing to do so that the puppy does not think that I am getting excited. The last thing I want to do is increase their arousal level.

Time outs. OK so as I said the crate is never to be used for punishment the crate is their safe space. So what you can do instead is get them a toy such as a Frozen Kong, frozen chicken wing or duck wing or suitable raw frozen item according to the manufacturer's guidelines, such as Natures Menu in the UK. If you want them away from you for a break fine, have a baby gate in the doorway and give them a calm session in the hallway or kitchen, whichever room you can utilise. This isn't to punish them but to give them an opportunity to expel the energy and chew or play a brain game and then sleep.

Begin to learn that your house is now shared with a furry land shark who you need to bargain with. Joking aside what I mean by this is begin to learn to have pots of treats around the home. So you don't have a puppy hanging off your trousers whilst trying to get to the kitchen to scatter feed for example. Pots of treats around the home are a life saver. If you have pockets all the time learn to join the crumb crew and carry treats in your pocket. Have toys like a pocket tug to hand, either on a shelf or in your pocket and as soon as your puppy has that glint in their eyes choose your defence weapon. Is it a toy or is treats or is it both.

Put the phone down. I know its hard, but you have a puppy. You chose a puppy. Your time is no longer your own. Much like a baby the puppy wants attention it's better to engage when they approach then pushing them away or ignoring them. Again pushing them away. You've just made a fun game of "Push me and I come back harder and even more aroused, whoo hoo." In my home my dogs have formed their own unwritten rule with me. If I take a while to respond to a message or a comment you can bet it is because I've had the phone pushed out of my hand and I have to engage with my Dogs. And sometimes they even take turns doing this. I submit immediately because I know they need me, be it a cuddle or a scratch or they want to play. Once I satisfy this need, they are happy and go to sleep or play with a toy by themselves. They do this unique behaviour because I have reinforced it. When they were puppies they would come and jump up or bite and they learnt that the phone got put down and they got the attention they needed. Hence I've reinforced it. And I wouldn't have it any other way.

Despite what you've been told your puppy is not trying to dominate you (it's a myth) and there's zero harm of having them on the sofa or the bed! Yep that's right. If you want a snuggle on the sofa or bed with your puppy do it. There's nothing wrong with it. If you have children this becomes a case of management. So you are going to have to train a cue of when the puppy is and isn't allowed on the sofa. If they are allowed on with you say "up", "sofa", "OK", I personally say cuddles. This will help them to differentiate between when they are allowed on and what they are not, but you need to do the hard work. Of managing puppy and children. If you don't want them on the sofa with your children again your going to have to look at a Kong etc for a calm time.

Now we have covered the do's and don'ts, let's now look at the Toy options you have. Remember I'm in the UK so you may have more or less access to these items or you may find you have the same but a different company for example in the UK we have Tug-E-Nuff in the US you have 4 my Merles creations which is the same and based in Canada.

Tug Toys

OK so let's discuss Tug-E-Nuff to begin with. Absolutely amazing products. Rabbit fur or sheep skin or artificial fur, handmade and custom made when you place your order. A range of pocket tugs, tugs on a long line for space and distance, squeaky tugs, bungee tugs. These toys are literally crack for Dogs. Tug-E-Nuff include a pamphlet in their package which also tells you what I am about to say. These are a high value toy which is only to be played with when you interact with the puppy or dog. They will be annihilated if you leave them with the dog or puppy. If you don't know how to play Tug instead of leaving a complicated link of letters and symbols you'll be frustrated with writing down when this document becomes a Pdf go to YouTube and type in Miyagis Dog Training Two Tug Toy game. I have made instructional videos on how to play Tug with your Dog.

Tug does not make your puppy or dog aggressive it does teach them bite inhibition, it does meet the needs of natural instincts and natural expression.

For the UK go to www.tugenuff.co.uk if in America go to https://www.4mymerles.com/ or 4 my Merles Creations via Facebook or Tug-E-Nuff through Facebook.

If you use Tug-E-Nuff your welcome to use my discount code MIYAGI for 10% off.

Kong

Where would we be without the Kong. Kongs are brilliant to feed meals in, to make as a frozen goody or as a room temperature goody. If you follow this link https://www.kongcompany.com/learn/Stuffing-recipes they have a whole range of Kong Stuffing recipes direct from the company themselves for all weathers. As well as this on this website you will find appropriate size Kongs this is especially important as the company stress themselves.

Sodapup

SodaPup is another brilliant dog toy company making super strong toys for your puppies and dogs, more variations of the Kong, super tough Licki Mats and general toys. The bonus of this company, from every purchase they donate to working dogs in need. Check them out at www.sodapup.com again your welcome to my discount code MIYAGI for 10% off. They are based in the US but do ship to the UK.

Zogoflex Toppl

Again another form of a Kong but unique in its own way. Go to https://www.westpaw.com/ if in the US or Amazon or eBay or type into Google for individual outlets in the US and UK.

Licki mats

Licki mats are an amazing invention and investment. You will need to supervise your puppy with this item, they can be destroyed and are easy to chew so you need to supervise. You can use dog friendly peanut butter on these, plain natural yoghurt as long as your puppy or dog is not allergic to dairy. Smushed bananas, Strawberries, Blueberries etc. Soft spread cheese with no onions in the ingredients. If you want more ideas go to http://lickimat.blogspot.com/?m=1 These are widely available from most Pet shops, Amazon, Ebay, SodaPup etc

Snuffle Mats

Snuffle mats are another amazing invention, for mental stimulation, confidence building and engagement. These are also available on Amazon, from most pet shops, ebay, etsy and selling groups on Facebook. Again you must supervise, material can be chewed and consumed. With these you can drop in normal treats, freeze dried treats, some of their meals, natural treats etc.

Brain games

Where would we be without brain Games, widely available from Pet shops, Amazon, Ebay etc. Brain Games again give mental stimulation and enrichment, help your puppy to engage and build confidence. K9 Connectables do a fabulous range of toys for your puppies mental stimulation go to www.k9connectables.com and again your welcome to use my 10% discount code Miyagis.

Treat and Train

A marvellous invention albeit pricey. But comes with a handbook with different games to play, mentally enriching, can be used via a remote to engage the puppy if not doing formal training at that moment and comes with a floor target stick. Honestly the treat and Train is brilliant with so many uses.

General Treats (always supervise, always)

Hugh value and the treats to have to hand for changing the puppies behaviour from biting to bringing a new mindset and engagement.

High value treats are always the way forward with Training these include and this isn't an exhaustive list for all countries or dietary needs for example EPI

Primula (plain, ham etc no onions)

Ham

Steak

Beef

Hotdogs

Cheese

Chicken

Duck

Tripe

Sprats

Hearts

Liver

Kidneys

Liver cake

Freeze dried meats

Dehydrated treats

Jr Pate

Liver Paste

These particular treats we highly recommend for taking in walks, classes, workshops etc too

Raw Treats

Raw chicken wings

Raw duck wings

Raw Trachea

Raw Beef Knuckle

Raw hearts

Raw liver

Raw Kidney

Raw fish

(if not a raw feeder in the UK and in doubt please go to www.naturesmenu.co.uk input your Dogs information and they will tell you which of their treats is suitable for your dog.

Dried Treats and Chews

Yak Chews although be cautious of coming to the end of the chew due to swallowing

Antlers

Dried Trachea

Beef Lips

Beef slices

Mega Bully Chew

Lambs Tails

Rabbit Ears (natural worming aid)

Chicken Feet (again use with caution)

Black pudding bites (Jr or similar not human)

Venison bites

Goat strips

Ostrich twists

Kangaroo twists

Braided Ostrich

Bulls Pizzle

Fish skins

Buffalo chews

Duck necks dried

Lambs ears

Vegetables and Fruits

Carrots

Watermelon (no pip's)

Peas

Sweetcorn (not corn on the cob)

Apple (no seeds)

Cucumber

Strawberries

Blueberries

Pumpkin

This isn't an exhaustive list but the idea is to get you started as a quick reference guide.

Also recommended is Astute Canine Club for natural treats, foods, shampoos etc and toys. Go to Astute Canine Club and request to join the group on Facebook or go to https://www.astutecaninedogclub.com/shop

Sleep

One of the most least known things about puppies is sleep and how much sleep they require. 18 hours per day! Sleeping through the night is great however all those nap times in the day add up and quantifies to 18 hours. Puppies not allowed to sleep or constantly disrupted, mouth and bite just like an over tired toddler, screaming, shouting, smashing the house up etc. We need to ensure they get plenty of sleep for physical and mental health needs. And biting is a side effect of being overtired.

Walks

People think walks will tire a puppy or resolve the situation, nope. Walks can heighten arousal levels. If you don't let your puppy off to run they will also not be burning the energy that they need to burn, so the next thing you experience with horror and probably fear is the Zoomies. Which I will discuss in a moment. For puppies we want to work with them, when they are on, they are on and this is the time to engage with them. When they are off, they are off and we need to ensure they are settled and feel safe and undisturbed to fulfill the need to sleep and the benefits that sleep brings them.

Walks are also not a frog march and the puppy should be allowed to sniff and interact with the environment. Although this is about puppy biting when we say socialise we do not mean them meeting every dog and puppy they see and playing. We mean socialising to the environment and getting used to sounds of wind, people, traffic, seeing dogs at a distance, different noises and smells. A puppy allowed to play with every dog they meet, will not only have social interaction problems as an adult or earlier but will also be on a massive high when you come home. So that poo and wee they did, that's because they was too excited to go to the toilet out and because excitement stimulates the bowels and bladder. And also the Zoomies when you get in too.

Zoomies

Zoomies is an excess or residue of energy which has to come out, again no different to kids charging around screaming at the top of their lungs. To people who don't know dogs or puppies for example a first time dog owner this can look terrifying, they charge around, punching on furniture barking and growling or squealing wild eyes and they are having the time of their life. So that's all Zoomies are just a lot of pent up energy being released before crashing.

Mental stimulation

Mental stimulation in the form of engaging with your puppy, play, Brain Games, toys are really important for the development of your puppy and meeting their needs and this continues all through adulthood. All dogs ancestors at one point were bred for a job, be it ratting, herding, carting, hunting, livestock guardians or like the doodle for Assistance dog work.

We have a duty of care to meet the needs of the dog regardless or breed and genetics but we also have to understand that the Dog or puppy will be influenced to a degree based on their breed and genetics. So if you have a nippy Collie, they are practicing instincts of herding, if you have a retrieving breed they are practicing the instinct of retrieving. At some point the stereotypes of the breeds behaviour was selectively bred into your pups line at one time and we have to respect how much we relied on dogs through the ages to assist us.

The puppy blues are real, the frustration, the pain you feel are all valid and real. Us Dog Trainers and Behaviourists we get it. We understand but we also know the right way in how to support the puppy and dog for success and for a happy lifestyle and life with you as the owner. This is why this guide has been written to offer you as much generalised advice as possible. Remember this is not individual advice or specific to your individual puppy. You may need to invest in a Trainer or Behaviourist for further Training and help.

Remember your puppy is not being aggressive, trying to dominate you, eat you or ruin your life. They are a different species with different needs and as soon as you begin bonding and working with them. You will have a mega awesome relationship!

One last note: as well as the toy recommendations above more toys to look into are

Boomer Balls for destructive puppies and dogs

Kong range - The Canine Emporium on Facebook are a UK stockist of a large selection of Kong toys not available in pet shops.

Goughnuts - a little pricey but as they are chewed they have a colour in the middle to tell you when it is time to replace the item.

Tree Root, Coffee Wood or Wood chews non splintering - available from most pet shops or Amazon and eBay as well as most online dog outlet stores.

#puppydog #dogs #dogtraining #puppydogs #biting #mouthing #learning

0 notes