#describing the hot sauce notes like he’s fine wine tasting
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gm angels! it's time for ur random rm fun fact of the day!
which is that ravenstan's spice tolerance is scary high and when he was on Hot Ones it was a legendary experience bc he was just having a blast, decimating vegan wings, rating the quality of the hot sauces, unphased by how fkn spicy all of them were and when he finally got to the last wing and the last dab, he forgot he was only supposed to put a little on there and SLATHERED HIS WING IN THE LAST DAB.
and sean evans/the production team were so worried he was going to pass out or something...but he was Stoked! he was like woah, this is fucking Delicious, dude! can i have a second one? MY BOOOOOY!
#nina speaks#ravenstan x hot ones supremacy#i wanna say it was post rm just so he can talk abt kyle#and his insane backstory because pls#ANYWAYS PEOPLE WERE SCREAMING#LIKE STAN SLOW DOWN PLS DONT EAT THAT#and he was like goddamn this is a good vegetarian wing#where did u get these like i gotta know#ok are u sure this one is spicier than the other one#like are u fucking with me be honest#describing the hot sauce notes like he’s fine wine tasting#i'm literally obsessed with him#abt to drink the hot sauce bottles#honestly impressive im floored#my hero#jersey was like am i...Attracted to this?#help#the answer is yes im afraid#hot boy shit
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Jupiter restaurant hosts a winning 'Hell's Kitchen' four-course meal
Enjoy 'Hell's Kitchen' Season 9 winning four-course meal recreation and wine pairing
Eddie Ritz Palm Beach Post
If you love the drama and pressure of the show "Hell's Kitchen" and are curious to know just what a chef Gordon Ramsay-approved, season-winning meal tastes like, now is your chance.
"Hell's Kitchen" season 9 winner and The Jupiter Grill executive chef Paul Niedermann will be recreating his winning meal on Sept. 19 and 26 at the waterfront restaurant in Harbourside Place.
This four-course meal and wine pairing begins with olive oil-poached shrimp featuring jalapeño, red onion, roasted garlic, lemon, and fine herbs, paired with Maschio “Cavalieri” Prosecco from Valdobbiadene, Italy. Pan-roasted diver scallops with corn emulsion, picked bell pepper salad, and smoked paprika aioli are next and paired with a Grgich Hills Fume Blanc from Napa Valley, California. For the main, Beef Wellington will be served with Yukon potato purée, roasted carrots, and a sauce bordelaise, which will be enjoyed with E. Guigal, Crozes-Hermitage from France. Finish off the evening with a delectable banana polenta cake topped with dark chocolate ganache with honey roasted peanuts and vanilla bean gelato. This delicious, delicate dessert pairs perfectly with Jackson Triggs Vidal Icewine, “Reserve” from Niagara Peninsula, Canada.
Niedermann is excited to recreate the winning dish and to share it with guests at The Jupiter Grill. "Being on the show is a big draw and I want (diners) to experience what got me here," he said. “Diners will get to enjoy each course that I presented to judges during that fateful season and experience exactly what they did.”
The chance to sit down for the meal is a rare opportunity. The contest-winning meal isn't on the menu full time at The Jupiter Grill because "it's a pretty labor-intensive dish," but also because by only doing it once in a long while it keeps "the 'wow' factor" going.
Besides his "Hell's Kitchen" season nine-winning dish, Niedermann said he enjoys all varieties of food, but noted specifically that "I love a good bowl of pasta, a Sunday gravy." In addition to eating it, he loves taking pasta and getting wildly creative with it. "Making different flavors of pasta, like a saffron, vanilla pasta" is a passion, he said. That particular variety went well with seafood.
Though he's a classically-trained, contest-winning chef, who has worked at the Biltmore in Coral Gables and the Ritz Carlton in Fort Lauderdale, Niedermann said he's no food snob. "I love food from a Michelin Star dinner, to a hot dog cart outside Home Depot."
Niedermann said he doesn't keep in regular touch with Gordon Ramsay, but they will send the occasional email to each other.
Wondering what Ramsey is like in real life compared to his intimidating, on-air persona? Niedermann described him as "one of the nicest guys I've ever met" adding that the celebrity is "incredibly interested in other people."
Niedermann doesn't have another television appearance lined up and said, "if there was an opportunity I'd be interested, but it would have to really peak my interest."
Until then, the best way to get a glimpse into that world of competitive cuisine is to dine on a winning meal. Or at least head out to where a winning chef is behind the menu.
“We are much more than just a destination for fine dining. Exclusive events such as Chef Niedermann’s Hell’s Kitchen Final Meal illustrate our commitment to connecting with our community,” says Dave Magrogan, CEO/Founder of The Jupiter Grill. “We invite everyone to come visit us!”
Jupiter Grill hosts a winning "Hell's Kitchen" four-course meal
What: "Hell's Kitchen" Season 9 winning four-course meal recreation and wine pairing
Where: The Jupiter Grill, 149 Soundings Ave., Jupiter
When: 7 p.m. Thursday, Sept. 19 (sold out) and 26
Cost: $125, reservations required, seating limited
Information: thejupitergrill.com; 561-768-9582
#paul niedermann#gordon ramsay#hell's kitchen#if i had a car and two hours worth of gas i'd go#i'm glad we're both in the same state#doesn't make florida so bad after all
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THE SPIRITUAL BACKGROUND OF VEGAN “MEAT OF THE FIELDS” AND SEA-MEAT SEITAN RECIPES
Originally posted on Vegan Mainstream by Bryanna Clark Grogan on January 21, 2014 Here are some recipes that I developed for the Vegan Mainstream Cookbook Club as their "January Chef" in 2014. This entailed writing an article, with recipes and photos, and doing a video chat with the wonderful and patient Stephanie Redcross and Emma Laroque. If you'd like to see the video of the live chat, it's available here. It was fun chatting with Stephanie, who is in Georgia (USA) and Emma, who lives across the Straight, not far from where I live!
I grew up in California, most of that time in San Francisco, within walking distance to Fisherman’s Wharf. The majority of the rest of my life has been spent on the West Coast of British Columbia (pre-and-post-vegan). My father was Peruvian, with an Italian mother. These facts alone might explain why I have seafood cravings to this day, 25 years after becoming vegan.
Some vegans, the ones who turn up their noses at any sort of replication of animal proteins, might say “get over it and eat some nori seaweed” (which I do from time to time), but inventing dishes is my craft, if you will. I can’t help being inspired by memories of the delicious meals of my past. I have a keen memory for outstanding meals—the tastes, smells and textures of certain dishes.
Don’t get me wrong—I love beans and grains, nuts and vegetables, and we eat them regularly and enthusiastically. But certain dishes of one’s culture, family background, holiday customs, and where we grew up stick with us, conjure up wonderful memories and feelings of comfort and pleasure. To deny these feelings, especially those of another vegan, out of some effort to be “pure”, even when no animal is harmed, seems misguided to me.
BACK IN TIME
Interestingly, (considering the “purity” angle), fine vegetarian cuisine developed first in Buddhist monasteries. The importation of Buddhism from India during the Han Dynasty (C.E. 58-75) influenced the development of a sophisticated vegetarian cuisine, since one of the five abstentions of orthodox Buddhism is an injunction against taking life. According to Hsiang Ju Lin and Tsuifeng Lin in their book Chinese Gastronomy (Hastings House, NY, 1969):
“Buddhists are vegetarians, consequently a small pocket of gastronomy has developed, fascinating in its attempt to create the ordinary flavours and appearance of fish and meat by using vegetarian ingredients. The Buddhists, whether monks or ordinary people, mingled freely with the non-vegetarians, and because the manners of Chinese society are all-embracing and diffuse, felt obliged to provide food which looked and almost tasted like meat. This was a sign of hospitality.”
Wealthy ladies would make pilgrimages to the city temples, having ordered a vegetarian lunch in advance. (This was apparently one of the few occasions on which wealthy women could go out by themselves.) The authors continue:
“The school of cooking which originated in the temple kitchens expanded and was taken up by the Yangchow cooks, specializing in delicate pastries and noodles. The challenge of simulating textures and appearance was irresistible. They were, in fact, able to reproduce even the intricate diamond pattern of duck skin, by lightly scoring smooth bean curd and filling in the cuts with a soy sauce mixture. Vegetarianism, which had originated for ethical reasons, finally became the gastronome’s business, and fell into the fine hands of the pastry cook.”
The pious Buddhist Emperor Wu (Wudi) of the Liang dynasty (also known as the Southern Liang Dynasty, C.E. 502-557), who donned monk’s robes several times throughout his reign, wrote an essay entitled Forsake Alcohol and Meat, in which he urged Buddhists to become vegetarians. He modelled much of his rule after the Indian Buddhist Emperor Ashoka of the Maurya Dynasty (273 -32 B.C.E), establishing Buddhism as the state religion of China, and prohibiting monks from drinking wine and killing animals. From that time on, vegetarianism in China was linked with the Buddhist prohibition against taking life. To this day, many Chinese and Japanese Buddhists sects prohibit eating meat.
Although tofu and other Chinese soy products are strongly associated with Chinese vegetarian cuisine, it is less well-known that wheat gluten may have been introduced into Chinese cuisine as early as during the reign of Emperor Wu (see paragraph above). The making of a sort of proto-gluten is described in the Chhi MinYao Shu (Notes on Miscellaneous Affairs; C.E .544
[Liang Dynasty]). Eventually, wheat gluten was called mien chin, meaning “the sinew of flour”, and was a well-established term by the Sung period (C.E. 969-1279), mentioned in writings of the time. A passage about iron and steel from Shên Kua’s Mêng Chhi Pi Than (Dream Pool Essays, C.E. 1086) reads: “Steel is to iron as mien chin (gluten) is to mien (flour). It is only after thoroughly washing the dough that gluten is revealed.”
Gluten was mentioned over the centuries by many writers and scholars, even in novels, such as Hsi Yu Chi (Journey to the West, C.E. 1570) and Ju Lin Wai Shi (The Unofficial History of the Literati— C.E. 1740.). This indicates that gluten was accepted outside of the circle of Buddhist ascetics. Recipes for cooking gluten are found in the major culinary works of the Yuan to the Qing (Chhing) Dynasties (C.E. 1279- 1912).
Over the centuries, Chinese chefs devised ever more elaborate recipes for meatless “meats”, “seafood”, and “poultry”. Stella Lau Fessler, in her book Chinese Meatless Cooking, wrote: “To a Chinese cook, imitating certain meat dishes with non-meat ingredients is not simply a matter of replacing the meat. It is instead an effort to show off the great culinary art of China, to make the impossible possible.”
So, this is nothing new, obviously, and we vegan cooks who devise modern homemade meat and seafood substitutes have a great example and proud lineage to follow.
IT’S ALL IN THE NAME
What do we call these products, anyway? “Meat analog” or “meat alternative” or “meat substitute” sound dull and unappetizing, and “gluten”? Well, I’ll let my friend David Lee, founder of the Field Roast Co. from Seattle, explain why he coined another term for it: “You know, gluten, the word for wheat protein, is kind of an odd word. I think it’s kind of an unfortunate word. I wish it wasn’t called gluten because gluten is kind of—you know, ‘glue-tahn’—it’s just kind of an ‘uhh’-sounding word. It’s a word that I actually try to avoid.”
As you probably know, David calls his products “grain meat”. He explained to me: “…meat wasn’t exclusively associated with animal meats, or animal flesh. As a matter of fact, I think you can find in any dictionary that the word ‘meat’ used to mean ‘food’ or ‘meal’, and also meant ‘substance’ (as in ‘the meat of the story’ or ‘the meat of the matter’). Think also of the word ‘nutmeat’ and how soy was called ‘the meat of the field’ in China.”
He also points out how milk is not exclusively dairy-based anymore—there are bean milks, like soy; grain milks, like oat and rice; seed milks, like quinoa, hemp and flax; and nut milks, such as almond, cashew, coconut and hazelnut. Soy why not “grain meat”, “nut meat”, soy meat” , etc.?
IN THE KITCHEN AGAIN
Delicious modern gluten/seitan/grain meat-based recipes abound on the Internet these days (often with the addition of other grain and legume flours), and in the pages of vegan cookbooks, but it’s difficult to find good recipes to satisfy those seafood cravings I was mentioning before. There are fewer seafood sub recipes online, and there are commercial products that I’ve read about, but they never seem to be available where I live. So I have had to devise my own recipes. There’s a “salmon” recipe in my bookWorld Vegan Feast (Vegan Heritage Press, 2011), but what I miss the most is shellfish—not only the taste, but the texture. The basic recipe I’m going to share with you below is satisfying to me, versatile, inexpensive, freeze-able and relatively easy to make. (I’m also including some favorite recipes using the basic product.) I hope you will enjoy these homemade products as much as I do, and devise your own recipes for using them.
INGREDIENTS: Mushroom/Kombu Broth: (Make this first and cool thoroughly.) 5 1/2 cups boiling water 10 medium-sized dried shiitake mushrooms or Chinese dried black forest mushrooms 1/3 cup dried boletus, mixed wild, or porcini mushrooms (or, if necessary, use about 16 shiitakes or Chinese mushrooms and omit the boletus or porcini) 1/2 oz dried kombu seaweed Dry mix: 2 cup pure gluten powder (vital wheat gluten) (See this link for how to tell if you have the right product) 1/2 cup chickpea flour, white bean flour, soy flour, or urad dal flour 2 teaspoons sugar 1 teaspoon onion powder 1/2 teaspoon garlic granules Wet Mix: 1 1/2 cups cold Mushroom/Kombu Broth (see above) 12 oz extra-firm regular (NOT silken) tofu, broken up 1 tablespoon oil 1 teaspoon salt Cooking Broth: 3 1/4 cups hot Mushroom/Kombu Broth (see above at top of ingredient list) 1 tablespoon vegetarian “oyster” sauce (see recipe and info for commercial brands below) 1 teaspoon onion powder 1/2 teaspoon garlic granules
DIRECTIONS:
Mushroom/Kombu Broth (Make this first and cool thoroughly): Soak the mushrooms and kombu in the boiling water, covered, for about 30 minutes, then strain. Freeze the mushrooms for future use in recipes, if you have no use for them right away. Discard the kombu.
To cool off the broth quickly, place it in a shallow dish or bowl and place in the freezer until cool. DO NOT use hot broth in the Wet Mix! Hot liquid will make the seitan stringy.
For the Wet Mix, blend all of the ingredients until very smooth in a blender or food processor.
Mix the Dry Mix ingredients in the bowl of your electric mixer with dough hook attachment, or place them in the bread machine in the order given. Add the cooled Wet Mix and knead for about 10 minutes. (If your bread machine has a dough cycle-two kneads with a long rest in between, use that cycle. Otherwise, just run it through the kneading part and then unplug it and let it rest in the covered container, then plug it in again for another knead, then remove it.) Let rest for about 1 hour, covered. Divide the dough into 4 equal pieces. Roll each one out on a clean countertop with a rolling pin to make a rectangle about 3/4-inch thick. Cut each rectangle into 4 squares (more or less). Roll the squares out to about 3/8″-thick. The pieces will be thicker after cooking. Repeat until you have rolled all the dough out this way:
Preheat the oven to 300°F.
Place the seitan squares in 2 oiled 9×13″ baking pans. The squares can overlap a bit. Pour half of the Cooking Broth over the seitan in each pan. Cover with foil. Bake 30 minutes. Turn the cutlets over, cover and cook 15-30 minutes more. (You just want to let the cutlets absorb all of the broth, not really brown them, so keep an eye on them.) Separate them carefully. Cool them before proceeding. (You can place them on a platter and cool them quickly in the freezer, if you wish.)
To cut the Sea-Meat Scallops:
Cut as many rounds as possible out of the cooled seitan squares with a 1″ wide or slightly smaller round cookie cutter. (I had to buy a set of round cookie cutters in order to obtain one of this size).
Grind the scraps coarsely in a food processor to use for Chopped Sea-Meat (clam substitute). NOTE: All seitan freezes well.
Nutrition (per serving): 98.3 calories; 22% calories from fat; 2.6g total fat; 0.0mg cholesterol; 140.0mg sodium; 73.8mg potassium; 5.3g carbohydrates; 0.5g fiber; 1.3g sugar; 14.1g protein; 2.1 points.
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HOMEMADE VEGAN “SEAFOOD” SATISFIES SOME NOSTALGIC CRAVINGS
Printable Recipe
BRYANNA’S ITALIAN VEGAN PASTA WITH WHITE “CLAM” SAUCE
Serves 5
This is a “veganization” of an old favorite from my childhood. I cut the olive oil down as far as I could, but you MUST have some in this sauce! You can serve this with a vegan parmesan substitute, but this type of dish is normally eaten without cheese.
INGREDIENTS: 1 lb linguine, spaghetti or other pasta of choice (I used farfalle or bowtie pasta in the photo) 1/4 cup good extra virgin olive oil 1 medium onion, minced 6 cloves garlic, minced Optional: a few pinches of dried oregano or basil 1 cup Vegan “Sea Stock” (see recipe below) 1/2 cup dry white wine or white vermouth (can be non-alcoholic) 1/2 teaspoon salt 2 cups (loosely packed) Chopped Sea-Meat (see this link) 1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley Optional: freshly-ground black pepper to taste, or pinch of red chile pepper flakes
DIRECTIONS:
Place a large pot of water on to boil for the pasta.
Heat the oil in a large heavy skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the onion, stirring, until starting to be golden, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic, and optional herbs, if using. Cook, stirring occasionally, until garlic is golden, about 2 minutes. Stir in the Vegan “Sea Stock” and wine, and boil, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until slightly reduced, about 3 minutes.
Cook the pasta in the pot of boiling salted water until al dente, then drain in a colander. While pasta is cooking, stir the Chopped Sea-Meat into the sauce and simmer, covered, stirring occasionally, 4 to 6 minutes. Remove from heat. Taste for salt.
Immediately add the drained pasta to the sauce along with the parsley, then toss until combined well. Add optional pepper, if desired. Serve immediately.
Nutrition Facts Nutrition (per serving): 551.0 calories; 22% calories from fat; 14.3g total fat; 0.0mg cholesterol; 440.0mg sodium; 338.0mg potassium; 77.9g carbohydrates; 3.5g fiber; 4.3g sugar; 23.8g protein; 11.5 points.
Yield: 4 cups This is a handy recipe for vegan “sea-meat” recipes.
6 cups hot water 10 medium dried shiitake or Chinese black forest mushrooms 1/2 oz dried kombu seaweed 2 teaspoons light miso 1 1/2 teaspoons vegetarian “oyster” sauce
(see recipe and info on commercial brands below) 1 teaspoon salt
Simmer the mushrooms and kombu, covered, in the water for 30 minutes. Strain in a colander. Save the mushrooms for another dish, if you like. Discard the kombu. Stir in the miso, vegetarian “oyster” sauce, and salt. Dissolve thoroughly. Strain through a fine sieve. Refrigerate.
Nutrition Facts Nutrition (per 1/2 cup): 18.6 calories; 6% calories from fat; 0.2g total fat; 0.0mg cholesterol; 318.5mg sodium; 75.3mg potassium; 4.3g carbohydrates; 0.6g fiber; 1.5g sugar; 0.7g protein ; 0.3 points.
Printable Recipe BRYANNA’S ANGEL HAIR PASTA WITH VEGAN “SCALLOPS” AND EDAMAMEServings: 6
This is deliciously simple Italian way to showcase your Sea-Meat Scallops. If you want a more “fishy” flavor, add a tablespoon or so of dulse or nori flakes to the sauce.
INGREDIENTS:
12 oz. Capelli d’Angelo (Angel Hair pasta– can be whole grain) 2 cups frozen or fresh shelled edamamé (green soybeans) 2 tablespoons good extra virgin olive oil 32 Sea-Meat Scallops (see recipe above) 1/4 cup Seasoned Flour (see recipe below) 2 green onions, chopped 4 teaspoon minced garlic (depending on your taste!) 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary (or 1 teaspoon dried) 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme (or 1/2 teaspoon dried) 1 1/2 cups Vegan “Sea Stock” (see recipe above) 1 1/2 cups dry white wine or white vermouth (can be non-alcoholic) Optional:1 tablespoon vegetarian mushroom-based “Oyster sauce” (see recipe and info on commercial brands below) salt and freshly-ground black pepper to taste) Serve with: lemon wedgesGoVeggie! Vegan Soy Parmesan OR walnut-based Parma! (or your own homemade sub
DIRECTIONS:
Place a large pot of water on to boil. When it boils, add the pasta and the thawed edamamé to the water and set the timer for 4 minutes. In a bowl, mix the Seasoned Flour with the Scallops until they are all coated.
Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy nonstick skillet. When hot, add the Scallops, green onion, and the garlic and quickly stir-fry over high heat until the Scallops are slightly seared. Add the Vegan “Sea Stock”, wine, herbs and salt and pepper to taste (and the “Oyster” Sauce and seaweed flakes, if using) to the skillet. Cook briefly at high heat.
Drain the pasta and edamamé when done and add to the skillet. With a large spoon and a pasta rake, toss the contents of the skillet while it cooks. You want the pasta to absorb most of the sauce, with just enough left so that it isn’t dry. Quickly divide the pasta evenly into 6 warm pasta bowls. Serve with salt, pepper, lemon wedges, and vegan parmesan substitute.
Nutrition Facts Nutrition (per serving): 478.0 calories; 20% calories from fat; 11.2g total fat; 0.0mg cholesterol; 338.8mg sodium; 602.4mg potassium; 61.2g carbohydrates; 5.5g fiber; 3.7g sugar; 55.7g net carbs; 25.5g protein; 9.7 points.
BRYANNA’S SEASONED FLOUR Yield: 2 1/4 cups
Have some of this in your refrigerator at all times for costing vegetarian proteins before browning– it adds great flavor!
2 cups whole wheat, or other wholegrain, flour 1/4 cup nutritional yeast flakes 1 teaspoon salt OPTIONAL: 1 teaspoon onion powder, 1 teaspoon garlic granules and freshly-ground black pepper to taste. Other spices can be used, according to the type of recipe you are making.
Mix together the flour, nutritional yeast flakes, salt, and, optional onion powder and black pepper, if using. Store in a covered container in the refrigerator.
Nutrition Facts
Nutrition (per 2 tablespoons): 50.4 calories; 5% calories from fat; 0.3g total fat; 0.0mg cholesterol; 105.7mg sodium; 89.6mg potassium; 10.2g carbohydrates; 2.1g fiber; 0.1g sugar; 8.2g net carbs; 2.7g protein; 0.6 points.
Printable Recipe BRYANNA’S FRIED SEA-MEAT “SCALLOPS” ON ASPARAGUS WITH LEMON-GARLIC SAUCE Serves 4 This recipe goes quickly, so make the sauce first and keep it warm, and have the asparagus steaming while you fry the “Scallops”.
INGREDIENTS: Lemon-Garlic “Butter” Sauce: 4 teaspoons vegan butter 4 cloves garlic, minced 2 cups light vegetarian “chicken” broth (do not use a very salty type because you have to reduce it—try using 1/2 as much powder or paste as you would normally) 2 medium organic lemons, grated zest and juice 1/2 tablespoon cornstarch mixed with 1 tablespoon water Optional Finish: 4 teaspoons vegan butter Additional: 2 lbs. fresh asparagus, trimmed and steamed until tender, but not mushy Fried “Scallops”: 32 Sea-Meat Scallops (see recipe above) whole wheat flour for dredging 1 cup plain soy, hemp, or nut milk mixed with 1 tablespoon lemon juice 2 cups panko (Japanese breadcrumb– look for Ian’s Whole Wheat Panko Breadcrumbs, if you prefer whole grain. Amazon carries them.) oil for frying
DIRECTIONS: To make the Lemon-Garlic “Butter” Sauce: Heat the first 4 teaspoons of vegan butter in a nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and stir with a wooden spoon JUST until the garlic begins to turn golden. Add the broth and the zest and juice of the lemons. Bring to a boil over high heat.
Turn down to a high simmer and cook it down to 1 1/4 cups (important!). Stir in the cornstarch mixture and stir until thickened. Stir in the remaining 4 teaspoons of vegan butter, if using. Remove from heat and cover to keep warm.
To fry the “Scallops”: While the asparagus is steaming, set up shallow bowls with the whole wheat flour, the milk and lemon juice mixture, and the panko breadcrumbs in a line on your counter. Dredge the “Scallops” in the flour, then the curdled milk, and then coat all over with the panko. Place on a parchment-lined cookie sheet, not touching.
Heat an inch or so of oil in a large heavy skillet. When hot, add the coated scallops, turn the heat to medium-high, and fry until crispy on both sides. Drain on paper towels.
To Serve: Distribute the steamed asparagus on 4 plates. Pile 8 fried “Scallops” over each pile of asparagus. Drizzle warm Lemon-Garlic “Butter” Sauce over each serving, and serve more on the side.
Nutrition Facts Nutrition (per serving): 321.4 calories; 14% calories from fat; 5.3g total fat; 0.0mg cholesterol; 601.4mg sodium; 741.8mg potassium; 61.0g carbohydrates; 9.9g fiber; 11.7g sugar; 13.3g protein; 6.1 points. Printable Recipe VEGETARIAN “OYSTER” SAUCE:
Chinese oyster sauce is a favorite flavoring, thick, rich-tasting, and slightly sweet. I use the vegan version frequently to coat plain tofu for use in stir-fries and fried dishes instead of chicken, and, of course, it’s essential in some Chinese dishes. As well, it can add rich flavor to homemade seitan/grain meat. If you can’t buy it, it’s easy to make a very acceptable substitute.
You can find commercial vegetarian versions, made with mushrooms, in some Asian groceries and large supermarkets (and online, including at amazon). Sometimes it is labeled “vegetarian oyster sauce” or “mushroom oyster sauce”. It is also marketed as “vegetarian stir-fry sauce” (Lee Kum Kee brand). It keeps for a long time in the refrigerator. However, it can be difficult for people in some areas to find, so I am giving you a recipe for a homemade version.
BRYANNA’S HOMEMADE CHINESE VEGETARIAN MUSHROOM “OYSTER” SAUCE (ALSO KNOWN AS “VEGETARIAN STIR-FRY SAUCE”)
Makes 18 liquid oz., or about the same as a commercial bottle NOTE ON MUSHROOMS: For the dried mushrooms, you don’t need expensive shiitakes—just use the inexpensive dried Chinese mushrooms (or Chinese forest mushrooms) that are easily available. Snap off the stems and discard them, then grind the mushrooms to a powder in a DRY, clean blender or coffee/spice grinder.
1 1/2 cups boiling water 6 tablespoons ground dried Chinese mushroom
(see note above) 6 tablespoons Chinese brown bean sauce or paste OR use 5 tablespoons mild brown miso + 1 tablespoon water 6 tablespoons soy sauce 6 generous tablespoons brown sugar 1 tablespoon cornstarch (can be organic) dissolved in 1 tablespoon cold water
(IMPORTANT: leave the plastic cap out of the center hole in the blender lid and cover it with a folded towel, so that the hot liquid doesn’t explode
.) Pour into in a medium saucepan and heat to boiling over high heat. Add the dissolved cornstarch and stir until thickened. Cool and store in a covered jar or bottle in the refrigerator. Since it is quite salty and sweet, it should keep for several months.
NOTE: You can, alternatively, microwave the mixture, with the cornstarch, in a medium bowl and cook on 100% power for about 1 minute, then whisk. Repeat until thickened and store as above.
Source: http://veganfeastkitchen.blogspot.com/2019/01/the-spiritual-background-of-vegan-meat.html
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THE SPIRITUAL BACKGROUND OF VEGAN “MEAT OF THE FIELDS” AND SEA-MEAT SEITAN RECIPES
Originally posted on Vegan Mainstream by Bryanna Clark Grogan on January 21, 2014 Here are some recipes that I developed for the Vegan Mainstream Cookbook Club as their "January Chef" in 2014. This entailed writing an article, with recipes and photos, and doing a video chat with the wonderful and patient Stephanie Redcross and Emma Laroque. If you'd like to see the video of the live chat, it's available here. It was fun chatting with Stephanie, who is in Georgia (USA) and Emma, who lives across the Straight, not far from where I live!
I grew up in California, most of that time in San Francisco, within walking distance to Fisherman’s Wharf. The majority of the rest of my life has been spent on the West Coast of British Columbia (pre-and-post-vegan). My father was Peruvian, with an Italian mother. These facts alone might explain why I have seafood cravings to this day, 25 years after becoming vegan.
Some vegans, the ones who turn up their noses at any sort of replication of animal proteins, might say “get over it and eat some nori seaweed” (which I do from time to time), but inventing dishes is my craft, if you will. I can’t help being inspired by memories of the delicious meals of my past. I have a keen memory for outstanding meals—the tastes, smells and textures of certain dishes.
Don’t get me wrong—I love beans and grains, nuts and vegetables, and we eat them regularly and enthusiastically. But certain dishes of one’s culture, family background, holiday customs, and where we grew up stick with us, conjure up wonderful memories and feelings of comfort and pleasure. To deny these feelings, especially those of another vegan, out of some effort to be “pure”, even when no animal is harmed, seems misguided to me.
BACK IN TIME
Interestingly, (considering the “purity” angle), fine vegetarian cuisine developed first in Buddhist monasteries. The importation of Buddhism from India during the Han Dynasty (C.E. 58-75) influenced the development of a sophisticated vegetarian cuisine, since one of the five abstentions of orthodox Buddhism is an injunction against taking life. According to Hsiang Ju Lin and Tsuifeng Lin in their book Chinese Gastronomy (Hastings House, NY, 1969):
“Buddhists are vegetarians, consequently a small pocket of gastronomy has developed, fascinating in its attempt to create the ordinary flavours and appearance of fish and meat by using vegetarian ingredients. The Buddhists, whether monks or ordinary people, mingled freely with the non-vegetarians, and because the manners of Chinese society are all-embracing and diffuse, felt obliged to provide food which looked and almost tasted like meat. This was a sign of hospitality.”
Wealthy ladies would make pilgrimages to the city temples, having ordered a vegetarian lunch in advance. (This was apparently one of the few occasions on which wealthy women could go out by themselves.) The authors continue:
“The school of cooking which originated in the temple kitchens expanded and was taken up by the Yangchow cooks, specializing in delicate pastries and noodles. The challenge of simulating textures and appearance was irresistible. They were, in fact, able to reproduce even the intricate diamond pattern of duck skin, by lightly scoring smooth bean curd and filling in the cuts with a soy sauce mixture. Vegetarianism, which had originated for ethical reasons, finally became the gastronome’s business, and fell into the fine hands of the pastry cook.”
The pious Buddhist Emperor Wu (Wudi) of the Liang dynasty (also known as the Southern Liang Dynasty, C.E. 502-557), who donned monk’s robes several times throughout his reign, wrote an essay entitled Forsake Alcohol and Meat, in which he urged Buddhists to become vegetarians. He modelled much of his rule after the Indian Buddhist Emperor Ashoka of the Maurya Dynasty (273 -32 B.C.E), establishing Buddhism as the state religion of China, and prohibiting monks from drinking wine and killing animals. From that time on, vegetarianism in China was linked with the Buddhist prohibition against taking life. To this day, many Chinese and Japanese Buddhists sects prohibit eating meat.
Although tofu and other Chinese soy products are strongly associated with Chinese vegetarian cuisine, it is less well-known that wheat gluten may have been introduced into Chinese cuisine as early as during the reign of Emperor Wu (see paragraph above). The making of a sort of proto-gluten is described in the Chhi MinYao Shu (Notes on Miscellaneous Affairs; C.E .544
[Liang Dynasty]). Eventually, wheat gluten was called mien chin, meaning “the sinew of flour”, and was a well-established term by the Sung period (C.E. 969-1279), mentioned in writings of the time. A passage about iron and steel from Shên Kua’s Mêng Chhi Pi Than (Dream Pool Essays, C.E. 1086) reads: “Steel is to iron as mien chin (gluten) is to mien (flour). It is only after thoroughly washing the dough that gluten is revealed.”
Gluten was mentioned over the centuries by many writers and scholars, even in novels, such as Hsi Yu Chi (Journey to the West, C.E. 1570) and Ju Lin Wai Shi (The Unofficial History of the Literati— C.E. 1740.). This indicates that gluten was accepted outside of the circle of Buddhist ascetics. Recipes for cooking gluten are found in the major culinary works of the Yuan to the Qing (Chhing) Dynasties (C.E. 1279- 1912).
Over the centuries, Chinese chefs devised ever more elaborate recipes for meatless “meats”, “seafood”, and “poultry”. Stella Lau Fessler, in her book Chinese Meatless Cooking, wrote: “To a Chinese cook, imitating certain meat dishes with non-meat ingredients is not simply a matter of replacing the meat. It is instead an effort to show off the great culinary art of China, to make the impossible possible.”
So, this is nothing new, obviously, and we vegan cooks who devise modern homemade meat and seafood substitutes have a great example and proud lineage to follow.
IT’S ALL IN THE NAME
What do we call these products, anyway? “Meat analog” or “meat alternative” or “meat substitute” sound dull and unappetizing, and “gluten”? Well, I’ll let my friend David Lee, founder of the Field Roast Co. from Seattle, explain why he coined another term for it: “You know, gluten, the word for wheat protein, is kind of an odd word. I think it’s kind of an unfortunate word. I wish it wasn’t called gluten because gluten is kind of—you know, ‘glue-tahn’—it’s just kind of an ‘uhh’-sounding word. It’s a word that I actually try to avoid.”
As you probably know, David calls his products “grain meat”. He explained to me: “…meat wasn’t exclusively associated with animal meats, or animal flesh. As a matter of fact, I think you can find in any dictionary that the word ‘meat’ used to mean ‘food’ or ‘meal’, and also meant ‘substance’ (as in ‘the meat of the story’ or ‘the meat of the matter’). Think also of the word ‘nutmeat’ and how soy was called ‘the meat of the field’ in China.”
He also points out how milk is not exclusively dairy-based anymore—there are bean milks, like soy; grain milks, like oat and rice; seed milks, like quinoa, hemp and flax; and nut milks, such as almond, cashew, coconut and hazelnut. Soy why not “grain meat”, “nut meat”, soy meat” , etc.?
IN THE KITCHEN AGAIN
Delicious modern gluten/seitan/grain meat-based recipes abound on the Internet these days (often with the addition of other grain and legume flours), and in the pages of vegan cookbooks, but it’s difficult to find good recipes to satisfy those seafood cravings I was mentioning before. There are fewer seafood sub recipes online, and there are commercial products that I’ve read about, but they never seem to be available where I live. So I have had to devise my own recipes. There’s a “salmon” recipe in my bookWorld Vegan Feast (Vegan Heritage Press, 2011), but what I miss the most is shellfish—not only the taste, but the texture. The basic recipe I’m going to share with you below is satisfying to me, versatile, inexpensive, freeze-able and relatively easy to make. (I’m also including some favorite recipes using the basic product.) I hope you will enjoy these homemade products as much as I do, and devise your own recipes for using them.
INGREDIENTS: Mushroom/Kombu Broth: (Make this first and cool thoroughly.) 5 1/2 cups boiling water 10 medium-sized dried shiitake mushrooms or Chinese dried black forest mushrooms 1/3 cup dried boletus, mixed wild, or porcini mushrooms (or, if necessary, use about 16 shiitakes or Chinese mushrooms and omit the boletus or porcini) 1/2 oz dried kombu seaweed Dry mix: 2 cup pure gluten powder (vital wheat gluten) (See this link for how to tell if you have the right product) 1/2 cup chickpea flour, white bean flour, soy flour, or urad dal flour 2 teaspoons sugar 1 teaspoon onion powder 1/2 teaspoon garlic granules Wet Mix: 1 1/2 cups cold Mushroom/Kombu Broth (see above) 12 oz extra-firm regular (NOT silken) tofu, broken up 1 tablespoon oil 1 teaspoon salt Cooking Broth: 3 1/4 cups hot Mushroom/Kombu Broth (see above at top of ingredient list) 1 tablespoon vegetarian “oyster” sauce (see recipe and info for commercial brands below) 1 teaspoon onion powder 1/2 teaspoon garlic granules
DIRECTIONS:
Mushroom/Kombu Broth (Make this first and cool thoroughly): Soak the mushrooms and kombu in the boiling water, covered, for about 30 minutes, then strain. Freeze the mushrooms for future use in recipes, if you have no use for them right away. Discard the kombu.
To cool off the broth quickly, place it in a shallow dish or bowl and place in the freezer until cool. DO NOT use hot broth in the Wet Mix! Hot liquid will make the seitan stringy.
For the Wet Mix, blend all of the ingredients until very smooth in a blender or food processor.
Mix the Dry Mix ingredients in the bowl of your electric mixer with dough hook attachment, or place them in the bread machine in the order given. Add the cooled Wet Mix and knead for about 10 minutes. (If your bread machine has a dough cycle-two kneads with a long rest in between, use that cycle. Otherwise, just run it through the kneading part and then unplug it and let it rest in the covered container, then plug it in again for another knead, then remove it.) Let rest for about 1 hour, covered. Divide the dough into 4 equal pieces. Roll each one out on a clean countertop with a rolling pin to make a rectangle about 3/4-inch thick. Cut each rectangle into 4 squares (more or less). Roll the squares out to about 3/8″-thick. The pieces will be thicker after cooking. Repeat until you have rolled all the dough out this way:
Preheat the oven to 300°F.
Place the seitan squares in 2 oiled 9×13″ baking pans. The squares can overlap a bit. Pour half of the Cooking Broth over the seitan in each pan. Cover with foil. Bake 30 minutes. Turn the cutlets over, cover and cook 15-30 minutes more. (You just want to let the cutlets absorb all of the broth, not really brown them, so keep an eye on them.) Separate them carefully. Cool them before proceeding. (You can place them on a platter and cool them quickly in the freezer, if you wish.)
To cut the Sea-Meat Scallops:
Cut as many rounds as possible out of the cooled seitan squares with a 1″ wide or slightly smaller round cookie cutter. (I had to buy a set of round cookie cutters in order to obtain one of this size).
Grind the scraps coarsely in a food processor to use for Chopped Sea-Meat (clam substitute). NOTE: All seitan freezes well.
Nutrition (per serving): 98.3 calories; 22% calories from fat; 2.6g total fat; 0.0mg cholesterol; 140.0mg sodium; 73.8mg potassium; 5.3g carbohydrates; 0.5g fiber; 1.3g sugar; 14.1g protein; 2.1 points.
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HOMEMADE VEGAN “SEAFOOD” SATISFIES SOME NOSTALGIC CRAVINGS
Printable Recipe
BRYANNA’S ITALIAN VEGAN PASTA WITH WHITE “CLAM” SAUCE
Serves 5
This is a “veganization” of an old favorite from my childhood. I cut the olive oil down as far as I could, but you MUST have some in this sauce! You can serve this with a vegan parmesan substitute, but this type of dish is normally eaten without cheese.
INGREDIENTS: 1 lb linguine, spaghetti or other pasta of choice (I used farfalle or bowtie pasta in the photo) 1/4 cup good extra virgin olive oil 1 medium onion, minced 6 cloves garlic, minced Optional: a few pinches of dried oregano or basil 1 cup Vegan “Sea Stock” (see recipe below) 1/2 cup dry white wine or white vermouth (can be non-alcoholic) 1/2 teaspoon salt 2 cups (loosely packed) Chopped Sea-Meat (see this link) 1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley Optional: freshly-ground black pepper to taste, or pinch of red chile pepper flakes
DIRECTIONS:
Place a large pot of water on to boil for the pasta.
Heat the oil in a large heavy skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the onion, stirring, until starting to be golden, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic, and optional herbs, if using. Cook, stirring occasionally, until garlic is golden, about 2 minutes. Stir in the Vegan “Sea Stock” and wine, and boil, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until slightly reduced, about 3 minutes.
Cook the pasta in the pot of boiling salted water until al dente, then drain in a colander. While pasta is cooking, stir the Chopped Sea-Meat into the sauce and simmer, covered, stirring occasionally, 4 to 6 minutes. Remove from heat. Taste for salt.
Immediately add the drained pasta to the sauce along with the parsley, then toss until combined well. Add optional pepper, if desired. Serve immediately.
Nutrition Facts Nutrition (per serving): 551.0 calories; 22% calories from fat; 14.3g total fat; 0.0mg cholesterol; 440.0mg sodium; 338.0mg potassium; 77.9g carbohydrates; 3.5g fiber; 4.3g sugar; 23.8g protein; 11.5 points.
Yield: 4 cups This is a handy recipe for vegan “sea-meat” recipes.
6 cups hot water 10 medium dried shiitake or Chinese black forest mushrooms 1/2 oz dried kombu seaweed 2 teaspoons light miso 1 1/2 teaspoons vegetarian “oyster” sauce
(see recipe and info on commercial brands below) 1 teaspoon salt
Simmer the mushrooms and kombu, covered, in the water for 30 minutes. Strain in a colander. Save the mushrooms for another dish, if you like. Discard the kombu. Stir in the miso, vegetarian “oyster” sauce, and salt. Dissolve thoroughly. Strain through a fine sieve. Refrigerate.
Nutrition Facts Nutrition (per 1/2 cup): 18.6 calories; 6% calories from fat; 0.2g total fat; 0.0mg cholesterol; 318.5mg sodium; 75.3mg potassium; 4.3g carbohydrates; 0.6g fiber; 1.5g sugar; 0.7g protein ; 0.3 points.
Printable Recipe BRYANNA’S ANGEL HAIR PASTA WITH VEGAN “SCALLOPS” AND EDAMAMEServings: 6
This is deliciously simple Italian way to showcase your Sea-Meat Scallops. If you want a more “fishy” flavor, add a tablespoon or so of dulse or nori flakes to the sauce.
INGREDIENTS:
12 oz. Capelli d’Angelo (Angel Hair pasta– can be whole grain) 2 cups frozen or fresh shelled edamamé (green soybeans) 2 tablespoons good extra virgin olive oil 32 Sea-Meat Scallops (see recipe above) 1/4 cup Seasoned Flour (see recipe below) 2 green onions, chopped 4 teaspoon minced garlic (depending on your taste!) 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary (or 1 teaspoon dried) 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme (or 1/2 teaspoon dried) 1 1/2 cups Vegan “Sea Stock” (see recipe above) 1 1/2 cups dry white wine or white vermouth (can be non-alcoholic) Optional:1 tablespoon vegetarian mushroom-based “Oyster sauce” (see recipe and info on commercial brands below) salt and freshly-ground black pepper to taste) Serve with: lemon wedgesGoVeggie! Vegan Soy Parmesan OR walnut-based Parma! (or your own homemade sub
DIRECTIONS:
Place a large pot of water on to boil. When it boils, add the pasta and the thawed edamamé to the water and set the timer for 4 minutes. In a bowl, mix the Seasoned Flour with the Scallops until they are all coated.
Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy nonstick skillet. When hot, add the Scallops, green onion, and the garlic and quickly stir-fry over high heat until the Scallops are slightly seared. Add the Vegan “Sea Stock”, wine, herbs and salt and pepper to taste (and the “Oyster” Sauce and seaweed flakes, if using) to the skillet. Cook briefly at high heat.
Drain the pasta and edamamé when done and add to the skillet. With a large spoon and a pasta rake, toss the contents of the skillet while it cooks. You want the pasta to absorb most of the sauce, with just enough left so that it isn’t dry. Quickly divide the pasta evenly into 6 warm pasta bowls. Serve with salt, pepper, lemon wedges, and vegan parmesan substitute.
Nutrition Facts Nutrition (per serving): 478.0 calories; 20% calories from fat; 11.2g total fat; 0.0mg cholesterol; 338.8mg sodium; 602.4mg potassium; 61.2g carbohydrates; 5.5g fiber; 3.7g sugar; 55.7g net carbs; 25.5g protein; 9.7 points.
BRYANNA’S SEASONED FLOUR Yield: 2 1/4 cups
Have some of this in your refrigerator at all times for costing vegetarian proteins before browning– it adds great flavor!
2 cups whole wheat, or other wholegrain, flour 1/4 cup nutritional yeast flakes 1 teaspoon salt OPTIONAL: 1 teaspoon onion powder, 1 teaspoon garlic granules and freshly-ground black pepper to taste. Other spices can be used, according to the type of recipe you are making.
Mix together the flour, nutritional yeast flakes, salt, and, optional onion powder and black pepper, if using. Store in a covered container in the refrigerator.
Nutrition Facts
Nutrition (per 2 tablespoons): 50.4 calories; 5% calories from fat; 0.3g total fat; 0.0mg cholesterol; 105.7mg sodium; 89.6mg potassium; 10.2g carbohydrates; 2.1g fiber; 0.1g sugar; 8.2g net carbs; 2.7g protein; 0.6 points.
Printable Recipe BRYANNA’S FRIED SEA-MEAT “SCALLOPS” ON ASPARAGUS WITH LEMON-GARLIC SAUCE Serves 4 This recipe goes quickly, so make the sauce first and keep it warm, and have the asparagus steaming while you fry the “Scallops”.
INGREDIENTS: Lemon-Garlic “Butter” Sauce: 4 teaspoons vegan butter 4 cloves garlic, minced 2 cups light vegetarian “chicken” broth (do not use a very salty type because you have to reduce it—try using 1/2 as much powder or paste as you would normally) 2 medium organic lemons, grated zest and juice 1/2 tablespoon cornstarch mixed with 1 tablespoon water Optional Finish: 4 teaspoons vegan butter Additional: 2 lbs. fresh asparagus, trimmed and steamed until tender, but not mushy Fried “Scallops”: 32 Sea-Meat Scallops (see recipe above) whole wheat flour for dredging 1 cup plain soy, hemp, or nut milk mixed with 1 tablespoon lemon juice 2 cups panko (Japanese breadcrumb– look for Ian’s Whole Wheat Panko Breadcrumbs, if you prefer whole grain. Amazon carries them.) oil for frying
DIRECTIONS: To make the Lemon-Garlic “Butter” Sauce: Heat the first 4 teaspoons of vegan butter in a nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and stir with a wooden spoon JUST until the garlic begins to turn golden. Add the broth and the zest and juice of the lemons. Bring to a boil over high heat.
Turn down to a high simmer and cook it down to 1 1/4 cups (important!). Stir in the cornstarch mixture and stir until thickened. Stir in the remaining 4 teaspoons of vegan butter, if using. Remove from heat and cover to keep warm.
To fry the “Scallops”: While the asparagus is steaming, set up shallow bowls with the whole wheat flour, the milk and lemon juice mixture, and the panko breadcrumbs in a line on your counter. Dredge the “Scallops” in the flour, then the curdled milk, and then coat all over with the panko. Place on a parchment-lined cookie sheet, not touching.
Heat an inch or so of oil in a large heavy skillet. When hot, add the coated scallops, turn the heat to medium-high, and fry until crispy on both sides. Drain on paper towels.
To Serve: Distribute the steamed asparagus on 4 plates. Pile 8 fried “Scallops” over each pile of asparagus. Drizzle warm Lemon-Garlic “Butter” Sauce over each serving, and serve more on the side.
Nutrition Facts Nutrition (per serving): 321.4 calories; 14% calories from fat; 5.3g total fat; 0.0mg cholesterol; 601.4mg sodium; 741.8mg potassium; 61.0g carbohydrates; 9.9g fiber; 11.7g sugar; 13.3g protein; 6.1 points. Printable Recipe VEGETARIAN “OYSTER” SAUCE:
Chinese oyster sauce is a favorite flavoring, thick, rich-tasting, and slightly sweet. I use the vegan version frequently to coat plain tofu for use in stir-fries and fried dishes instead of chicken, and, of course, it’s essential in some Chinese dishes. As well, it can add rich flavor to homemade seitan/grain meat. If you can’t buy it, it’s easy to make a very acceptable substitute.
You can find commercial vegetarian versions, made with mushrooms, in some Asian groceries and large supermarkets (and online, including at amazon). Sometimes it is labeled “vegetarian oyster sauce” or “mushroom oyster sauce”. It is also marketed as “vegetarian stir-fry sauce” (Lee Kum Kee brand). It keeps for a long time in the refrigerator. However, it can be difficult for people in some areas to find, so I am giving you a recipe for a homemade version.
BRYANNA’S HOMEMADE CHINESE VEGETARIAN MUSHROOM “OYSTER” SAUCE (ALSO KNOWN AS “VEGETARIAN STIR-FRY SAUCE”)
Makes 18 liquid oz., or about the same as a commercial bottle NOTE ON MUSHROOMS: For the dried mushrooms, you don’t need expensive shiitakes—just use the inexpensive dried Chinese mushrooms (or Chinese forest mushrooms) that are easily available. Snap off the stems and discard them, then grind the mushrooms to a powder in a DRY, clean blender or coffee/spice grinder.
1 1/2 cups boiling water 6 tablespoons ground dried Chinese mushroom
(see note above) 6 tablespoons Chinese brown bean sauce or paste OR use 5 tablespoons mild brown miso + 1 tablespoon water 6 tablespoons soy sauce 6 generous tablespoons brown sugar 1 tablespoon cornstarch (can be organic) dissolved in 1 tablespoon cold water
(IMPORTANT: leave the plastic cap out of the center hole in the blender lid and cover it with a folded towel, so that the hot liquid doesn’t explode
.) Pour into in a medium saucepan and heat to boiling over high heat. Add the dissolved cornstarch and stir until thickened. Cool and store in a covered jar or bottle in the refrigerator. Since it is quite salty and sweet, it should keep for several months.
NOTE: You can, alternatively, microwave the mixture, with the cornstarch, in a medium bowl and cook on 100% power for about 1 minute, then whisk. Repeat until thickened and store as above.
Source: http://veganfeastkitchen.blogspot.com/2019/01/the-spiritual-background-of-vegan-meat.html
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Okinawa, Japan
In August earlier this year, I was able to travel to Okinawa, Japan by way of The Okinawa Memories Initiative, a project organized by Alan Christy, a professor at U.C. Santa Cruz, my alma mater. Alan, who organized and oversaw the project (formerly called The Gail Project; it also included a larger student research component) co-led much of the tour with Atzuki Hiyoshi (Japanese name order), a local tour guide.
Alan, who I’ve described to friends and family as “the world’s biggest Okinawa nerd,” and Hiyoshi, who lives in Okinawa, together were able to provide deep insight into a fascinating island culture influenced alike (through trade, militarism and colonialism) by Taiwan, China, Japan, America and its native Ryukyuans.
Anthony Bourdain released a fantastic Parts Unknown episode that was my introduction to Okinawa, which I would highly recommend as either your own primer on Okinawa, or if any of what I’ve written below piques your interest, a continuation of the subject. That said, here are some things I saw and did in Okinawa that I think were particularly cool, fun and interesting.
Habushu
This is habushu, which I have tried to succinctly describe to others as “Okinawan snake liquor.” Describing it beyond that requires a minor dive into a few different facets of Okinawan culture.
The “liquor” used to make habushu is called awamori, which is a type of shochu. If you’re unfamiliar, shochu is a spirit made from rice. Compared to sake, which is a rice wine, shochu is closer in strength to vodka. Awamori is local to Okinawa, and from what I can gather, is unique in that it’s distilled from a specific strain of rice. My own assessment is that it differs from a more typical shochu in its stronger bite. It tastes a bit more “raw” than a standard shochu, which in my experience feels pretty clean, again, almost like vodka. Vodka-like this is not.
Habushu also contains a number of spices, and a species of snake called the Habu, which is indigenous to Okinawa. Frequently, outdoor locations on our trip would prominently display “Beware of Habu” signs. The Habu can mate for periods of up to 26 hours, so of course, plenty of men presumably wanted to drink the snake so they could fuck like the snake. It also looks kind of badass, which is great for enticing yen out of suckers like me.
The habushu I tried in this photo was from a vendor in the sprawling and winding kokusai dori, a covered shopping arcade with a considerable footprint in Okinawa’s capital city, Naha. The shopkeeper ladled the mini-shot I’m holding out of one of the two jars pictured. I believe I paid 800 yen, which is almost 8 dollars, for that little bit of magical snake drink.
While I was expecting something that tasted somewhere on the spectrum of middling-to-bad—which I was sure existed more for the novelty than taste—I was pleasantly surprised. It pretty much had the bite of regular awamori, times 10 or so. It tasted just about as “manly” as it looks.
Habushu is one of many Okinawan specialties (some others: Okinawan donuts, black pigs, koregusu hot sauce… there’s a bunch). You can buy a drink in most convenience stores, produced by Nanto Brewery called a Habu High Ball, a canned version of a drink you’ll find on many Okinawan restaurant menus. It’s exactly what it sounds like.
Tofuyo
This was one course of a pretty neat meal at a restaurant called Suitenro, which specializes in the cuisine that traditionally used to be served in Ryukyuan royal courts, castles and palaces. At the top is goya chanpuru, which is possibly the dish most emblematic of Okinawa. It consists of goya, or bitter melon, and a scramble of tofu, eggs and other vegetables and possibly meats.
Chanpuru is a word taken from the indigenous Okinawan language meaning “mixed,” or maybe more loosely, “some of this, some of that.” This is secondhand information, but I remember reading that this notion of “this and that” is both the defining idea of this staunchly Okinawan dish, as well as emblematic of Okinawa as a whole.
Of particular note, though, is the small bowl in the bottom center, a fermented tofu called “tofuyo.” Okinawa already has a distinct style of more regular tofu called “shima-dofu,” which is processed differently than in the rest of Japan. It has something to do with water; Google can tell you more (you will also commonly run into another style of Okinawan peanut tofu called “jimami tofu”).
Tofuyo is shima-dofu fermented in awamori and red koji, which is a common ingredient used to ferment all sorts of things in Japanese cuisine.
What makes this tofu special though is its totally fucking insane flavor. An individual little cube of tofuyo is served with its own utensil, which looks like a flattened toothpick (as you can see in my photo), because its flavor is so strong, people can generally only take small amounts at a time.
I would describe its flavor as equal parts strong cheese—like, think a roquefort—and booze. The awamori makes up a significant part of its flavor. I’ve been an adventurous eater for most of my life, and this was truly one of the gnarlier flavors I’ve encountered.
Goat Sashimi
This is goat sashimi. Yep—raw goat meat. How I even ended up trying something so unusual involves a little bit of a story.
After Naha, our trip stopped briefly in Nago, a city known for its beach-adjacent hotels (including a massive beach resort in which Bill Clinton famously stayed during the 2000 G8 summit, during which time Clinton and Vladimir Putin both wore kariyushi shirts—Okinawa’s version of the Hawaiian shirt—in turn giving the shirt style a major boost in popularity, to the point that they’re now a typical “business casual” look on the island).
Hiyoshi, the local tour guide I mentioned, invited me to accompany him to meet with an inn owner couple he knew in town. During tour guide gigs, Hiyoshi would sometimes have to stay in their cheaper inn, while his tour group lodged in a nicer hotel (I’m happy to report on our trip, Hiyoshi stayed in the same hotel we did). So, after a few years of that, he got to know the owners pretty well.
The night we arrived in Nago was the first night of Obon, a Buddhist holiday during which families gather and honor the spirits of their ancestors. A couple times during our evening with the inn owners, friends of theirs dropped by and left small gifts.
One of these guests, who ended up staying for the rest of the evening, Hiyoshi excitedly informed me in English was the mayor of Nago! I later found out his mayorship held considerable political significance.
During the time of our trip, Okinawa’s governor had recently passed away from pancreatic cancer, and a new election was imminent. Toguchi Taketoyo, the mayor, had been elected just six months prior, in February, on a pro-American military base campaign. Very briefly, for those unaware, since World War 2, the American military has maintained a significant presence in Okinawa for its strategic value both in America’s alliance with Japan, and as a deterrent to potential Chinese and North Korean aggression.
The rationale behind anti-American military base sentiment is pretty obvious. Foreign soldiers and foreign military equipment being given real estate on an already small island isn’t great! However, a candidate like Toguchi (who won by a slim margin) is still able to rally considerable support from those who benefit from the American military presence, be it through an increase in business, or simply getting along well with the American soldiers they know. Some people with low-paying jobs will also seek out work on military bases that pay higher than what they might otherwise find in the struggling Okinawan economy.
It’s a complex issue—one easily much more complex than I’m qualified to tackle, let alone in the condensed amount of space that I’m giving it. I would be inclined to agree with the anti-base side, but as an outsider, I don’t think it’s my place to take a strong stance one way or another.
All of this to say, Toguchi was great company. I don’t want to malign the man who showed me a great time, even if I may stand somewhat on the other side of the political divide in which he’s played a role.
By the way… during the time of our trip, Alan explained that the pro-base candidate in the governor’s race had been chosen and was actively campaigning, while an anti-base candidate had yet to be chosen. This lack of readiness, plus the precedent set by Toguchi’s election seemed to indicate that the pro-base candidate was very likely to win the governorship. But yet…! In October of this year, anti-base candidate Danny Tamaki was elected governor of Okinawa.
Right. This all began with goat sashimi.
I’ll admit that the exact reasons a plate of goat sashimi were put in front of me aren’t entirely clear to me, either due to the information being relayed secondhand to me through Hiyoshi’s translations, or because after I heard “raw goat meat” I got too excited to pay attention to the particulars. It happens.
I believe that the inn owners, or someone close to them, owned and raised this goat, and had it slaughtered for Obon. This was fresh goat meat from what I’m pretty sure was their own goat! It wasn’t something they ate routinely, but to celebrate Obon, they brought the goat out, both raw, and in a stew (which included chunks of meat from throughout the goat, regular meat and organs alike; this was delightful).
Raw goat meat, which a few online sources have informed me is unique to Okinawa and not otherwise found in Japan at large, is served with grated ginger, and a mixture of soy sauce and vinegar. The vinegar is meant to mask its smell. Either the vinegar did its job, or the it wasn’t a huge deal in the first place, because it smelled fine to me.
It tasted… alright! Unlike the habushu, the novelty outweighed the flavor a little bit. The pieces with the kinda bizarre-looking green bit attached to them were pretty chewy. Otherwise it had what I can only describe as a standard meat flavor.
I am, of course, grateful to Hiyoshi and the inn owners for their hospitality, and giving me the chance to try something for what very likely will be the only time in my life!
Squirrel and Grapes
These stickers for the very specific pairing of squirrels and grapes were available as part of a children’s sticker-collecting activity, I believe, at Shuri Castle, which was traditionally where the king of the Ryukyu Kingdom resided in days past, and is now a major tourist attraction.
Here’s the deal: royal Ryukyu art at the time prominently featured a specific handful of animals, including the tiger, which is not indigenous to Okinawa or Japan. The Okinawans knew about tigers through trade with China, so Okinawans were pretty much painting Chinese paintings of tigers when they would depict them in their own works of art.
Same with squirrels! They also were only found in China, so the ancient Ryukyuans were really painting what they thought squirrels looked like. While tigers were probably renowned for their vigor, ferociousness, and manly man attitude, what Okinawans knew about squirrels is that they bred like rabbits. Except, well, squirrels.
They were paired with grapes because, to the Ryukyuans, grapes were the fertility fruit, because, of course, there’s a lot of them in one bunch. Lots of squirrels and lots of grapes.
Hacksaw Ridge (2016)
This faded poster for Mel Gibson’s Hacksaw Ridge was featured prominently on the actual, real-life Hacksaw Ridge.
*BONUS* Black Egg
As a little bonus, here’s a black egg! Before Okinawa, I spent a few days in Hakone, a town known for its hot springs, located near Tokyo.
The eggs become black after being boiled in natural sulfuric pools in the mountains just outside of town, and can be purchased at a gift shop the top of the mountain with the springs used to make them.
According to local legend, eating one of these eggs has extended my life by seven years, and will do the same per egg, per person.
You’re able to eat them at little stations within the gift shop that include a place to deposit the shells, and some salt you can add for flavor. By most estimations, they just taste like a typical hard-boiled egg. The back of the pamphlet pictured behind the egg includes eight different graphs: four comparing and contrasting the whites between a standard egg and the black egg, and four doing the same with the yolk.
According to this impressive collection of data, the white of the egg does, in fact, taste the same, but it’s the the yolk that stands out with its more umami-rich flavor. I’m not gonna dispute the numbers!
*BONUS 2* Three Cats
There are cats everywhere in Okinawa, and as a major cat lover, I could not have been more delighted by this. There were even multiple cat-themed souvenir shops in Naha. As another bonus, here’s a photo I took of three stray cats in a local park full of them!
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Le Pigeon - French urban doing French provincial
Karen and TJ both had the Le Pigeon Burger with a butter lettuce salad and blue cheese dressing ($17). TJ had a Fever Tree Ginger Beer ($5) and Karen had a glass of Pinot Noir, but she doesn’t remember the exact kind ($14).
K: ...there was one day when he texted me to ask how my morning was going and I thought, sure, I can answer this. So I told him a little about being bored at work or whatever. Then he texted me around lunchtime to ask how it was going and I felt a little uneasy, but I gave some short answer. Then that night and was like “How’s your evening going?” and I just didn’t say anything because I don’t even talk to people I love that often, let alone Tinder dudes I don’t even know. I’m not big on the constant stream of text conversation. It’s not happening.
T: Wow.
[The burgers arrive]
T: So, this is a blue cheese salad? Seems kinda… common.
K: I really like this presentation though. The lettuce is arranged like a rose. It’s a lettuce rose! And even though the dressing is creamy, it looks light. And it has chives in it?
T: So a fancy blue cheese salad?
K: It sort of goes with the whole farm to table vibe this place has. It tastes like they just walked out and picked this lettuce.
T: Yeah, the decor is doing everything it can to say French urban doing French provincial.
K: I can’t believe how small this place is...
T: If you had shown up one minute later we would be waiting for space at the bar.
[TJ takes his first bite]
K: You did it! You got a little bit of the top bun. It’s not a giant burger, but it is very tall.
[Karen takes her first bite and burger juice erupts onto the napkin on her lap, all over the front of her dress, and drips down her hand]
K: Agh! Ee! It’s really hot burger juice!
T: It is. Maybe you’re supposed to eat the salad first and let the burger cool? Wow... You got it all over you.
K Crap. I guess I have to do laundry tonight.
T: This is the rarest “medium rare” burger I’ve had. It’s very, “You’re gonna taste this beef.”
K: This is the messiest burger I’ve ever eaten.
T: Messier than Stoopid Burger?
K: I think so because that one didn’t erupt all over me. I feel like a huge greaseball right now. And this is a pretty fancy restaurant to feel like a greaseball in.
T: Well? What do you think other than that?
K: The bread definitely tastes homemade and rustic.
T: I like the coleslaw, it’s also in the light blue-cheese dressing I think. There are pickled onions on here that are really delicious.
K: Oh, is that what that is? I thought it was a beefsteak tomato. That’s a whole fatty slice of pickled onion.
T: The bites with the onion are the best. It’s so crisp and tart.
K: There’s like some red sauce on the bottom.
T: Umm, that’s ketchup.
K: Ha! I thought it was something fancy because of how fancy this place is.
T: And there’s mustard on the top bun.
K: Fancy mustard?
T: Probably.
K: Is this the most expensive burger we’ve eaten so far?
T: For you it is. My burger at Yakuza, with the fancy egg on it, was valued at $20 but I got it on happy hour.
K: Just because you ate a more expensive burger doesn’t make you better than me.
T: I’m just willing to throw money at burgers. Which, depending on your viewpoint might actually make me a worse person than you.
K: This is one of the first burgers I heard about when I moved here, so I’m glad I’m finally eating it.
T: Same here. But…
K: But?
T: I have some critiques. Let’s start with the bread. I appreciate how rustic it is and how it fits in with the whole provincial ambiance here but it’s not easy to bite through.
K: It squishes everything in the center out, which is probably why I’m covered in grease right now. Also, this is the third time today that I’ve bit my lip in the exact same spot.
T: I’ve had those days.
K: Yeah, it’s making me grumpy at this point. Not the burger’s fault though.
T: Can a burger be too juicy?
K: Well...this one did explode all over me. That was a little much. I could have done without that. You should be able to eat a burger with your hands without completely drenching yourself in grease.
T: Good thing you didn’t wear white.
K: I know, right? This is probably the best burger eating outfit, a loose fitting black dress. Gotta leave space for the burger gut. We should do a side note about Burger Fashion. What do you wear to eat a burger?
T: No belt.
K: Definitely no belt.
T: Also, I try to keep my sleeves rolled up. Don’t want burger juice down your sleeves.
K: I like this wine now. It just kicked in and got really good.
T: It wasn’t good before?
K: No, but wine just kind of does that. First sip, it’s like kind of tart or not something I’m used to or whatever. And then halfway through it gets better and then you like it.
T: I think you’re describing getting drunk.
K: Yup, I hear it now. That is what I was describing.
[Karen looks around the restaurant]
K: [Quietly] Do you see anyone else who ordered the burger?
T: No, I think we’re the only ones. This is a very serious place to eat. I think we’re the most casual people here. Everyone else here is here because they’re on dates, or have lots of money, or are foodies waiting for the three-course chef’s special.
K: This is definitely a special occasion place.
T: This is a special occasion! You’re leaving Portland.
K: You’re right. From now until September is a special occasion, Burger Husband. Let’s make the most of it.
Sides
K: I was impressed with the butter lettuce salad. It was light and fresh and looked like a beautiful flower. But let’s be honest, fries would have been a hell of a lot better.
T: I hate when you’re at a restaurant and the server asks if you want fries or a salad with a burger. I’ve already ordered a burger, I’m obviously not thinking of my health. But yes, for how simple this side is it’s impressive. Light and flavorful at the same time.
Ambiance
K: Very fancy in a “we’re trying to look rustic” sort of way. It’s trying very hard to appear like it might be an upscale small restaurant in France. It’s... fine. Probably a good place to take a date you’re trying to impress.
T: The tight quarters mean you can hear everything that everyone says. So maybe not a first date. Maybe a second date. Or bring your partner here on an anniversary. If you think that long-lasting love is a real thing.
K: Wow.
Taste
K: It was good, but didn’t live up to the hype I’d heard since moving to Portland. I wouldn’t want to order such a messy burger in such a fancy setting again. I give it a 7.
T: I can recognize that it’s a dressy take on the classic burger with quality ingredients, but I think it was a little too understated for my tastes. I’d say 7.5.
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