#culturenotfashion

[thebespokedudes]

The main difference between Shetland and Lambswool? The softness. The first is stiff and scratchy, the latter (pictured) is softer. Truth be told, both are warm and keep the crease even after weeks of usage. ••• La differenza tra Shetland e Lambswool? La morbidezza. Il primo è rigido e ruvido, mentre in secondo (in foto) ha una mano ben più morbida. A dire il vero, entrambi i tessuti sono molto caldi e tengono la piega anche dopo settimane di utilizzo. #lambswool #shetland #wikidude #culturenotfashion #thebespokedudes #sartoria #bespoketailoring ph: @eleonoraph (presso Porta Venezia)

[edesimsartorianapoli]

#Repost @fabioattanasio with @repostapp ・・・ Each one of us in the morning, in front of his closet, can pick among four variables: jacket, shirt, tie and pocket square. Every variable might be plain or patterned. The ensemble in the photo in my opinion has a very balanced ratio, I would call this 2x2, because jacket and tie are plain whereas shirt and pocket square are patterned. One thing I would never do is a 4x0, that is to say: four patterned variables, none of these plain. What's your take when it comes to matching clothes? Credits: @tbdeyewear Ulster sunglasses #sartoria #TheBespokeDudes #mohair #bespoketailoring #culturenotfashion Ph: @phraule

[thebespokedudes]

Back in the days, Neapolitan aristocrats used to send their shirts to France to be ironed and starched. Nowadays collars with floating canvas are as beautiful as hard to iron: the risk is to have wrinkles on them (like in my case) ••• Nei tempi passati, gli aristocratici napoletani erano soliti spedire le loro camicie in Francia per farle stirare e inamidare da stiratrici professioniste. Oggi i colletti e i polsi con tele libere sono tanto belli quanto difficili da stirare: il rischio, infatti, è che presentino antiestetiche pieghe (come il mio colletto in foto) #collointelato #sartoria #floatingcanvas #bespoketailoring #culturenotfashion #thebespokedudes ph: @andreaschiavina

[thebespokedudes]

See those slanted creases falling from the shoulders? Well, that's a flaw in the contruction of this otherwise marvelous doublebreasted cashmere coat by @eduardo_de_simone. It can happen, bespoke garments are made by men, not by machines, hence they can be imperfect sometimes. The important thing, in my humble opinion, is to be able to spot the flaw and be kind when noticing the maker. Mark: 6/10 ••• Vedete quelle pieghe oblique che cadono dalle spalle? Beh, quello è un difetto nella costruzione di questo cappotto doppiopetto in cashmere - che altrimenti sarebbe stato perfetto - realizzato da Eduardo De Simone. Puó succedere, gli abiti di sartoria sono fatti da uomini, non da macchine, e come tali possono essere imperfetti alle volte. La cosa importante, a mio parere, è saper individuare il difetto e farlo notare in maniera educata alla sartoria. Voto: 6/10 #sartoria #bespoketailoring #eduardodesimone #thebespokedudes #culturenotfashion Ph: @eleonoraph (presso Via della Spiga Milano)

[thebespokedudes]

Invented in England, but becoming widely used in Sicily during the years of the Grand Tour, the flat cap first saw the light of day amongst the wealthy landed gentry in England, a social indicator differentiating between the lower classes and the aristocracy. It was used for country walks and hunting during recreation, but the fact that this casual accessory has maintained popularity in the collective imagination is in no small part thanks to TV and films. In Italy, its connotations have morphed from the original; it is somehow wrongly associated – along with a wide-barrelled shotgun and moustache – to a backward South, a subtle way of implying Mafia connections, thanks to certain films. Nata in Inghilterra, ma diffusasi in Sicilia durante gli anni del Grand Tour, la coppola nasce in realtà nelle abbienti famiglie britanniche, presso le quali si afferma come strumento di distinzione tra il basso ceto e l’aristocrazia. Si usava per attività di guida e di caccia e prevalentemente nel tempo libero, ma si deve in gran parte al cinema e alla televisione il merito di aver tenuto viva la coscienza collettiva su questo copricapo sportivo dalla linea piatta. In Italia ha assunto connotazioni diverse da quelle originarie, anche grazie ad una cinematografia che – con annessa lupara e baffo - l’ha spesso associata ad un Sud retrogrado e in odor di mafia. Credits: @bennett_winch weekender bag and @doria1905 flatcap #coppola #flatcap #culturenotfashion #wikidude #thebespokedudes (presso Parco Palestro Milano)

[thebespokedudes]

Each one of us in the morning, in front of his closet, can pick among four variables: jacket, shirt, tie and pocket square. Every variable might be plain or patterned. The ensemble in the photo in my opinion has a very balanced ratio, I would call this 2x2, because jacket and tie are plain whereas shirt and pocket square are patterned. One thing I would never do is a 4x0, that is to say: four patterned variables, none of these plain. What's your take when it comes to matching clothes? Credits: @tbdeyewear Ulster sunglasses #sartoria #TheBespokeDudes #mohair #bespoketailoring #culturenotfashion Ph: @phraule

[edesimsartorianapoli]

#Repost @fabioattanasio with @repostapp ・・・ Raise your arm. If the collar and the lapels of your jacket keep embracing your neck and chest, then the jacket has been made well. Jacket @eduardo_de_simone @tbdeyewear prescription glasses #bespoketips #sartoria #thebespokedudes #culturenotfashion #timetocutmyhair

[thebespokedudes]

Raise your arm. If the collar and the lapels of your jacket keep embracing your neck and chest, then the jacket has been made well. @tbdeyewear prescription glasses #bespoketips #sartoria #thebespokedudes #culturenotfashion #timetocutmyhair (presso Brera)

[edesimsartorianapoli]

#Repost @fabioattanasio with @repostapp ・・・ My face when I am told that the fashion week carnival is finally over 😏 What I love most about this suit by @eduardo_de_simone is the rough hand of the fabric, a @standeven1885 mohair. The solid chalkboard colour is a great alternative to the navy or grey suit, advisable for daytime meetings. Moreover, the armhole is not only high, but also wide in order to ease the movements of the arms. Finally, please look at the flawless plumb of those trousers, with the central crease not breaking and the cuffs lightly touching the top of those @edwardgreen1890 Piccadilly penny loafers. Perhaps I will just have my right leg ironed so as to move the central crease towards the centre. #sartoria #culturenotfashion #thebespokedudes #tbdeyewear #bespoketailoring

[thebespokedudes]

My face when I am told that the fashion week carnival is finally over 😏 What I love most about this suit by @eduardo_de_simone is the rough hand of the fabric, a @standeven1885 mohair. The solid chalkboard colour is a great alternative to the navy or grey suit, advisable for daytime meetings. Moreover, the armhole is not only high, but also wide in order to ease the movements of the arms. Finally, please look at the flawless plumb of those trousers, with the central crease not breaking and the cuffs lightly touching the top of those @edwardgreen1890 Piccadilly penny loafers. Perhaps I will just have my right leg ironed so as to move the central crease towards the centre. #sartoria #culturenotfashion #thebespokedudes #tbdeyewear #bespoketailoring

[thebespokedudes]

The tuxedo is not to be confused with the original smoking jacket. In coloured velvet with a shawl collar, the latter was worn by English gents when they retired post supper to the smoking room, to slip back into their dinner jackets (aka tuxedo) once they had satisfied their tobacco craving, so as not to bother the other diners with the smell of smoke on their attire. #bespoketips #culturenotfashion #smokingjacket #tuxedo #sartoria #thebespokedudes 📷: @phraule

[thebespokedudes]

The 'cravat' is the ancestor of our modern neckties, named after a 17th-century military unit known as the Croats, an ethnic group hailing from Central and Southeastern Europe. This is why in Italian we say 'cravatta' to mean 'tie'. Credits: @tbdeyewear Vicuña sunglasses, available at our online boutique from Monday Sept 26th and @edesimselection blazer. #cravat #bespoketips #sartoria #thebespokedudes #culturenotfashion Ph: @eleonoraph (presso Galleria Vittorio Emanuele)

[thebespokedudes]

The chair test: some tailors ask their customers to sit on a chair during a fitting; their intention is not to prevent them from fainting in front of the bill, but to check the neckline of the jacket and the proper length of the vest itself. In this case, for example, master tailor @joaquinfernandezprats shortened my vest a tad for a better fitting. Credits: @bowtie.eu shoes #sartoria #sastrerialanga #culturenotfashion #thebespokedudes #bespoketips #nevertakeyourselftooseriously

[thebespokedudes]

Bespoke tip: what is the real difference between expressions like “made-to- measure” and “bespoke”? Customers are often spun into confusion by the vile improper use – typical in Italy – of the term “made- to-measure”, which does not distinguish between clothing made from scratch, like in a tailor’s atelier, or those that originate from a standard design, like in big brand fashion houses. Coming to the rescue of the disorientated buyer is the term that dashes all the smoke and mirrors to the ground: “bespoke” #Madetomeasure refers to a piece of clothing that was born of a pre-established pattern – the same for all, divided up in sizes – and which is adapted to the clients needs in terms of length, width and details, which can vary depending on how innovative the company is. Generally speaking, a client has a fitting with a sample item (in accordance to their body size), and this will be chalked to signal how it needs to be adjusted; a machine will then make the item from a paper pattern upon which the modifications have been marked. #Bespoke, however, sees a tailor cut the cloth from scratch after having marked the design out according to the client’s measurements; only then will he go on to create a unique model for that client, after various fittings. Bespoke clothing, in the strict sense of the word, is only made in a few artisan ateliers; for obvious reasons of limited space, only a few big names can boast this kind of workmanship which, while clearly of inestimable value, requires greater working times and costs. Truth be told, technological progress today allows for adjustment of details like the drop and the neckline, once unthinkable in machine-made manufacturing. At the end of the day, we go to the tailor's for the experience and because it's a #passion. Credits: @edwardgreen1890 Piccadilly loafers #bespoketips #sartoria #culturenotfashion #thebespokedudes #edwardgreen (presso Brera)