#citadella park

[jupiterovprsten]

Barcelona, Spain

[jamesleechubb]

I don't wanna be somebody Without your body, close to me - feeling my Ellie Goulding moment above Budapest . . . . . 📸 @mesiejack #budapest #citadella #scenic #view #niceview #pretty #stunning #sunset #park #panoramic #skyline #statue #architecture #tourist #tourism #englishmanabroad #me #tourist #poser #december #bfs #hols #britabroad #hungary #holiday (at Citadella) https://www.instagram.com/p/Br-kagWjCl7/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=33rua5f7qxlb

[budapestbug]

From Austrians to Nazis to Soviets, this historic Budapest fortress has a history as complex as the city itself. The Citadella was constructed in 1854 by the Habsburgs as part of their strategy to supervise formerly rebellious Budapest and Hungary to prevent another uprising. The Citadella remains a symbol of oppression as well as liberty. A massive structure 220 meters long, 60 meters wide, and 4 meters tall, the Citadella was occupied by the Austrians until 1899. The locals, still angered by that symbol of foreign oppression started the demolition of the walls, however, most of the citadel structure still stands, and was subsequently used by both Nazis and Communists as a surveillance position, taking advantage of its amazing view over the city. The Nazis used the Citadella mainly as an anti-aircraft position and bunker. Once the Red Army advanced to the city and recovered the territory, the Citadella was used by the Communists as well. After the Hungarian uprising in 1956, the mounted weapons were pointed not to the skies but to the civilian population below. The Communists also took advantage of the high position of the structure and decided to erect a monument that would remind the locals of the sacrifice made by the Eastern liberators who freed the city from the German invaders. Once the monument was finished, it displayed five statues: A woman carrying a torch, representing progress; a man fighting a five-headed dragon symbolizing the struggle against the forces of evil (the Axis powers probably); two Red Army soldiers, representing the liberators; and atop the monument, a 14-meter statue of a woman holding a palm leaf with both hands up to the sky, representing liberty. Once the Communist influence vanished after the fall of the Soviet Union in 1991, the statue of the Red Army soldiers were removed and taken to the Statue Park along with the remaining works of art honoring the invaders of an occupation that lasted four decades. Nowadays the Citadella remains a popular tourist destination. It is a fascinating site where one can see all the wonders of a city that has been called the Paris of Central Europe, as well as explore its troubled history. Update as of December 2019: The interior of the Citadella is currently closed indefinitely to the public. #citadella

[kindabigbear]

Eastern European Pilgrimage – Slovakia & Budapest, Hungary

We woke up early again this morning to head out for Budapest, Hungary.  Our first stop for the day was for mass.  We drove to this small town called Gaj where the Kosciot Narodzenia was located.  It was a cute little church.  They had one bathroom and apparently it had no toilet paper.  Luckily, mom and I had bought some travel kind to bring with us. It looked like there were redoing the grounds around the church and maybe fixing up the church itself.  After mass, we traveled farther down the road to Orawka to the Parish St John the Baptist.  It was an incredibly old church made of wood that had amazing paintings all over it.  It also had a number of graves outside.  A couple of them looked like they were from WWI or II and were probably pilots. There was a little building next door that had bathrooms.  They also had the cutest cat wandering around.  He was so friendly and cute.  We got back in the bus and headed south.  At the border to Slovakia, we stopped to use a bathroom but they ended up not being open.  It was kind of disappointing.  Plus, I think Sebastian needed to take his break.  We continued on though and eventually stopped at Donovaly.  It was a ski area and had food places, bathrooms, apartments and hotels.  We had lunch and did a little souvenir shopping.  I think we should have had lunch with Father Robert as he had pizza and we had some weird stuff with LaVern and her husband.  Slovakia is a pretty country.  I enjoyed looking at the scenery as we drove along.  There was what looked like a ruined castle of sorts on a hill and a freeway that was either being built or was abandoned.  

We arrived in Budapest toward evening.  Before we even went to the hotel, we went to dinner.  It was an interesting place…… you go through one door and then leave out another.  We ate out on a terrace like area which was good since it was really hot.  The bathrooms were downstairs though.  The food here was the worst.  A very dry looking piece of tuna on some kind of rice stuff.  I had a roll and ate some of my crackers and jerky when we got to the hotel later. I’ve been google-mapping like crazy trying to find the name of it but I can’t even find a place that even looks familiar.  On to the hotel.  It was called the Continental Hotel Budapest.  We were on the sixth floor which was maybe two from the roof.  Nice little room.  

The next morning, we met up with everyone and our guide for the day in the lobby.  We walked down the street to the Raoul Wallenberg Holocaust Memorial Park.  It has a huge weeping willow tree sculpture commemorating the Hungarian Jews who died in the Holocaust.  Their names are inscribed on the leaves of it and it’s called the Emanuel Tree.  It was pretty impressive looking.  Next to this was the Dohany Street Synagogue and the Hungarian Jewish Museum and Archives.  We continued down the road and through the Varoshaza Park and to Elizabeth Square where they have a Ferris wheel called the Budapest Eye.   Here we turned off onto a small side street and walked down to St Stephen’s Basilica.  It was very pretty.  Old European churches like this are always pretty.  We had a little time to look at a souvenir shop outside before we had to get on the bus to go to our next place.  The shop had bathrooms too.  We went over to the City Market where we could find something for lunch.  There was a Burger King across the street so mom and I went there.  Nice and quick.  Meeting up with everyone again, we got on the bus and headed out of Budapest to the north. Our next stop was in the town of Esztergom.  It was right on the Danube and the border of Slovakia.  We were having mass at the Basilica of Esztergom.  It was on a hill overlooking the river.  Very pretty views and a nice area where you could look off from. Mass was in this side area.  There was a picture in there that looked like a demented goat or something.  It was really creepy looking.  We drove back to Budapest and had dinner at this place that looked like a wine cellar. They had a big barrel full of corks in it in the entrance.  After dinner, Sebastian drove us back to the hotel.  

Day two sort of.  We had a city tour of sorts.  We went out to the Millennium Monument in Heroes Square and by the Museum of Fine Arts and the Kunsthalle.  It was also near the Budapest Zoo and Vajdahunyad Castle. There was a little lake that had peddle boats that you could rent.  We drove by the Shoes on the Danube Bank which was a memorial for people killed by fascist during WWII.  We also went by Hungarian Parliament building.  Very impressive looking and even better at night with the lights all lit up.  After this, a number of us went off on our own while the rest went on a tour of the Parliament building.  Mom and I got lunch at KFC and did a bit of shopping.  Then we took a taxi back to the hotel.  For dinner tonight, we went across the river to a restaurant called Borkatakomba.  The inside was like a wine cellar with huge barrels you could sit in and have dinner.  We sat at a long table.  There was another section of long tables behind us and on either side.  I think one group was from the UK and another from China maybe.  At the end of the tables was a little stage area where some people were playing instruments.  That was also where a couple of them danced and stuff.  It was entertaining.  The food wasn’t that bad either.  

Today I stayed at the hotel while everyone went off to the top of Gellert Hill.  There was a Citadella there and you could see Fisherman’s Bastion.  I ended up seeing most of this later when mom and I went on a hop on hop off bus tour of sorts. We were supposed to have the whole day to ourselves but the leader had planned too many things for the time we had.  I think.  So much happened I might be mixing up the things we did each day.  Anyway.  Last full day, we took a hop on hop off bus out to the zoo.  Well kind of.  We went the wrong way but got there eventually.  I adore zoos.  I try to go to one everywhere I go. The giraffes were cute and I love the tiger. He was sleeping.  The lion was laying on his back.  Just a big cat.  We went as far as the polar bears and then went back down to do some shopping.  Mom was trying to find the same place she had gone to with the other ladies but we couldn’t find it.  We went back to the hotel and started packing.  Our last dinner was a river cruise and folk music show. They had a menu that you could pick what you wanted.  It was nice. It was fun.  We went up and down the Danube a couple times and ate and listened to people sing and play.  Then we went back to the hotel to sleep for a couple hours before we had to get up again and head to the airport.  

For being three in the morning, the airport was pretty packed.  We flew to Amsterdam where we had barely enough time to go through security and get to our next gate before they were loading.  I didn’t get to use the bathroom so I used the one on the plane before we took off.  We went through customs in Portland which was weird.  Then we called the hotel bus to come get us.  When we got to the hotel, I changed into shorts.  It was so hot.  We got back home by around five.  My cat was happy to see me.  

[voidsettle]

Summer Junction: Small Balkans

                                                                                                       May-June 2018

Chasing the last-August experience of a region-wide country run, we started planning for our next trip, something southern this time. We wanted some history from the old towns, scorching heat of the sun over bright sea, and long vistas of the mountain ranges. Montenegro became the basis for the plan. But why settle for one if you can have more? We were going wild.

Sveti Stefan, Budva, Montenegro

Full 2 weeks were spent in careful preparations. We were throwing in Hungary and Serbia before and Bosnia and Croatia in between. The original plan grew from a tour around one country to five, some of them added (almost) against our wills. We had to fly through Budapest - our airlines had rather cheap tickets to the destination city. From there, it was hit-and-miss travel by every kind of transport you'd imagine. Bus? Plenty. Car? Repeat the hitchhiking experience. Train? Make it two.

First Stop: Budapest, Hungary

Fisherman's Bastion over Danube, Budapest, Hungary

Arriving at Budapest, we had several hours - it was but a short stop before the night train to Serbia.

Whenever I'm in Budapest, there are three things I'm looking forward to: enjoy the vista from the Fisherman's Bastion, visit Szechenyi Thermal Baths and have a taste of Hungarian Tokay.

Last time when I was in Hungary, I got lost somewhere in Pest and ended up deciphering another tourist's instructions in German (which was mutually poor but delivered fun experience nonetheless). This time I finally got to creating a mind map of major sites and attractions. No that I can definitely find Budapest Opera if left at the central train station, but a can guess the general direction at the very least.

Fun at Fisherman's Bastion

Besides, the good thing about traveling on your own (without a guide and a group of whiny tourists tagging along) is that you achieve the level of liberating enlightenment never to be experienced in your own country. It usually takes several days for this skill to kick in. I was all the more surprised as this expanding feeling bubbled in my chest as I descended into Budapest subway.

While in Budapest, you absolutely must visit one of the thermal baths, the relaxing and soothing experience best after a long walk around the city.

I personally prefer the ones in Szechenyi Park because of the sheer scope and variety - inside the pavilions, under the open sky, cooling, warm, hot - whatever you heart desires. Just visiting one by one will take around 2 hours, so better come with some spare time on your hands.

I must say, the Hungarian capital was truly underestimated by me. I definitely plan on going back and add a couple more to-dos to my usual itinerary: visit the Opera, roam through the halls of National Gallery, have a slow stroll on Margaret Island, and taste much more local delicacies.

What to see:

Fisherman's Bastion

Matthias Church

Gellert Hill and the Citadella

Hungarian National Gallery at Buda Castle

Hungarian Parliament

Szechenyi Chain Bridge and its tongueless lions

Margit hid (Margaret Bridge)

Ruins of the Fransciscan church on Margaret Island

Szechenyi Thermal Bath

What to eat:

goulash (thick paprika soup/stew)

libamaj (goose liver)

fried duck

chicken paprikas with dumplings

halaszle (fish soup with paprika and tomato sauce)

langos (basically fast food)

kremes (cream cake)

somloi galuska (biscuit with custard)

chestnut puree

kurtoskalacs (vanilla and citrus pastry)

Tokay wine

palinka (fruit brandy)

Second Stop: Beograd, Serbia

View on the junction of Sava and Danube from Belgrade Fortress, Beograd, Serbia

First things first, a cry of pain to Serbian trains: they are immensely, unbelievably hideous. But such fun!

Truly, after Ukrainian railroads I believed I've seen it all - oh how thoroughly mistaken I was! The compartments are shabby and worn out, nearly everything is torn or broken, just on this side of usability, the wall facing the passageway is made of plexiglass delivering a (not so) beautiful view of your sleeping face to anyone happening to pass by. And the cherry on the top: they have four (which is standard for Ukraine and, I believe, most of Eastern European countries) and six (?!) seat compartments. Preordering the tickets, we were so curious that we couldn't miss the opportunity to travel in a six seat one (aside from it being slightly cheaper).

Three floors of the six-seat compartment on a Serbian train from Budapest

What it meant on practice was literally three floors. The first of which basically was a seat standing on the floor (when sitting, my knees were before my eyes), and the last had only around half a meter to the ceiling. Basically no storage place. It was truly scary sleeping both on and underneath these seats.

I keep wondering if we got lucky that the two middle seats were (obviously) non-functional, so we only had two other poor unfortunate souls to share this sorry excuse of a compartment. On the other hand, the experience was so bizarre and unique that I couldn't keep myself from laughing hysterically. Not sure any of my companions comprehended my mirth.

On the brighter note, Beograd is one of those cities that don't care the least for you as a tourist. One day is pretty much enough to see everything there is to see, the major attraction being, of course, the Belgrade Fortress with its rich history protecting the city (thus the clash of architectural styles), vast park area below leading your eye to the joint of Danube and Sava rivers, and quaint winding passages that lead to different courts, half-hidden castles and fortifications.

Beograd Fortress

Lost somewhere in its area, I caught this wonderfully serene moment of pre-summer heat hammering down the irregular stone-paved trails, deafening crickets and the dizzying smell of grasses and red poppies (that are all over the place, magical beyond belief).

The city shows itself. Walking from the fortress down Knez Mihailova Street, you find yourself at the National Museum. A little to the South, ruins left after the NATO bombing stay proud in the middle of the bustling city. And then there's the Cathedral of Saint Sava, quite the monumental construction to mark the grand aspirations of Serbian nation. It is one of the largest churches in the world, and one that is still being built, starting in 1935. That tells you something about the nation.

If you don't have much time, take the round tram #2 to see all the major sites in city center. You'll miss something, for sure, but it's a good way to start your acquaintance.

And don't forget to get yourself familiar with the people - they're quite the friendly type. My friend's shoe tore at the most inopportune moment, and we were looking for something that'd help keep it together. Asking in one of the shops where we could buy glue, the owner not only told us how to get to the closest place but he personally walked us there. At yet another instance, a woman we asked directions from spent quite some time (and probably missed her bus) to make sure we know how to get to the Cathedral of Saint Sava. Using Serbian and gestures; pure incomprehensible joy.

What to see:

Beograd Fortress

Knez Mihailova Street and the pedestrian area

Ruins of Yugoslav General Staff from 1999 NATO bombing

National Museum (with one if not the largest Impressionist painting collection in Europe)

St Mark's Church

Cathedral of Saint Sava

Church of Saint Alexander of Neva

What to eat:

cevapi/cevapcici (regional delicacy, variations met throughout the Balkans - basically grilled meat in flatbread with chopped onions)

kajmak (cheese)

Karadordeva snicla (meat stuffed with cheese)

sarma (meat rolled in sour cabbage leaves)

musaka (potato and meat casserole)

ajvar (vegetable side dish)

pljeskavica (meat in flatbread)

cvarci (fried pork rinds)

rakia (fruit brandy; do you start noticing patterns yet?)

Third Stop: Underground Train and First Glance at Montenegro

Ruins of Bedem Castle, Niksic, Montenegro

Unlike traditional tourists, we decided to take a whole day off sight-seeing to indulge in traveling at its utmost. Moreover, the whole detour to Serbia was solely for the purpose of catching this train: Beograd, Serbia to Bar, Montenegro. We wanted to get our hands and eyes on mountains as soon as possible - and boy, did we get our fill!

If you get a chance to travel from Belgrade to Montenegro by train, by all means do. You won't regret a moment of it.

Train Beograd, Serbia - Bar, Montenegro

Actually, before the trip, I had my doubts: spending the whole day sitting in train, with nothing but observing natural beauties for over 10 hours; I thought we'd be bored to death by the end of hour 2. I didn't factor in the underground traveling - all in all, after spending the lion's share of the trip counting and noting the time, our route amounted to nearly 200 tunnels and almost hour and a half under ground in Serbia alone.

The longest tunnel is nearly 5 km long. I even counted the speed of underground travel - approximately 15 mph, a lower speed due to the danger of high mountain travel. Curiously, in Montenegro, the speed in tunnels was considerably higher, even though we didn't manage to uncover the reason.

One more thing to note is the considerably higher quality of Montenegrin trains. Compared to that taking us from Budapest to Beograd, this was nearly comfortable. I don't know the reason, but air-con was only available in one carriage (coincidentally, the one we were in), and it wasn't shying away from its function. I was freezing by the end of hour one, and went out in search of something to warm up. In other carriages, people were clustering by the windows, catching air, vistas and smoking.

Smoking right under the sign 'Smoking prohibited'

Thus, I anchored myself in the buffet car (calling it 'restaurant' wouldn't do; they offered no food) with a permanent cup of coffee before me. This was my little yet unforgettable time - the amalgam of beautiful mountain ranges flashing by outside the window, hot coffee and a cozy book that I prudently brought along. Light chatter of the trainmen fought with cigarette smoke in the air, the rattling of the train creating snug and quaint ambiance.

We arrived to Podgorica after sunset. The first glance at Montenegro delivered the unique feeling of living on the roofs - the room we were staying at had an exit right near the red shingles of the neighbor house. While I was having cup of tea before bed, a woman casually strolled on top of the roof nearby to hang the clothes to dry.

Despite the status of the capital and the largest city in Montenegro, Podgorica more often that not creates the feeling of a medium-sized deeply provincial town. Hidden behind the mountainous hills, far from the seaside, the city doesn't enjoy the influx of tourists during summer seasons but also boasts a warmer climate in winter.

And so we followed the route inland, leaving the Adriatic for the last part of our journey. My friend, the terrifyingly stubborn woman, woke me up at 4 in the morning to catch the train to Ostrog.

If I was to advise for Ostrog, I would not. And I'm unlikely to repeat the experience in the future.

Ostrog, Montenegro

That was one of a hellish trip for me - high up in the mountain, hides a Christian Orthodox church shrine. Sounds better than it is in reality. Well. It does look nice, I must admit - the chambers cut out in the sheer rock and all. But I'd argue not worth the effort put in.

Given I'm not religious and a late-sleeper, the way up the mountain trail early in the morning thoroughly irritated me. My mood didn't better at seeing how the 'religious' folks arrived right by the entrance in buses and cars - the hypocritical bastards. I guess we had a fight with my friend, who is much more loyal toward Christian religion and keeping faces. The things we give away.

Besides, the timing was really off - the vistas from high up the mountain are pretty bland early in the morning. The angle of the sun was just not right. The whole place in the morning looks like a refugee camp, with dirty mats and plaids for those willing to spend the chilly night on the monastery grounds. The whole place feels weird.

Camping outside the Ostrog monastery, 900 m above sea level

I was much more cheerful as we were leaving the damned-- I mean, sacred place.

By this time, we were at our basic premise: high in the mountains, half an hour by car to our interim destination, several hours before anything goes the way we need,  and a choice between astonishingly hideous weather and heavy backpacks. There was that trip to Crete where we were basically blind and death from the wind, cursing the moment we decided to go through the mountains on foot.

Our fallback is hitch-hiking fellow travelers to take pity on us and give us a lift. This time, we were picked up by a nice couple from Belarus who brought us right to Niksic. Unexpectedly, the city appeared more interesting than we imagined. I loved the ruins of the local castle. At one moment, the atmosphere was distinctly medieval - the lush green pastures outside the half-preserved walls, the grey grim limestone and delicate, full of color flowerheads taking over the reign in this place. That glimpse of centuries long gone sent a shiver down my spine, and was gone as fast as it appeared.

Bedem castle, Niksic

Today, the castle ruins serve as a concert hall for the local youth - naturally, the larger part of the stone is covered in graffiti, and we've met a couple of sturdy young boys at the foot of the castle, unloading what looked like heavy sound equipment boxes. We had to sacrifice half a bottle of water as an entrance fee.

After an ice-cream and a meditation over the neat and apparently old cemetery, we headed for the bus station to catch a ride to Sarajevo. And, oh, did our adventures only begin!

The same way as I was rumbling about Serbian trains - one should be aware of the buses in Montenegro.

The worst part? Not enough seats. The bus we got was tiny, more like a minivan. We were forced to take our bags inside and to stand the whole way to Bosnia (2.5 hours to the border, same to Sarajevo). I wasn't even trying, sitting down in the aisle as soon as we started off. I got through the first hour alright, catching a casual conversation with a guy from Albania sitting beside me. And then the air stopped circulating (at least where I was sitting), and I don't remember most of the way to the Bosnian border.

I got a seat somewhere along the ride. When we arrived in Sarajevo, I was so tired that it was nearly blissful - I don't think I was the slightest bit worried when we got the message from our to-be host that we couldn't be accommodated at their place that night. Fortunately, we caught decent free Wi-Fi in the middle of the Bosnian capital. Last thing I actually remember from that day is reconciling with my friend over the religious matters and thinking before falling into darkness that nothing could surprise me during this trip anymore.

Descending the Ostrog mountain, panorama dipped in morning haze

What to see:

Sahat kula, Podgorica (clock tower)

Ostrog (take this up at your own risk, and, by gods, do not go on foot, you won't be getting out)

Church of Sv Vasilje, Niksic

Bedem castle, Niksic

What to eat:

prshut (dried meat)

cevapcici

pleskavitsa/roshtil (fried and grilled meat)

sopsky salat (vegetable salad with cheese)

ribla chorba (fish soup)

Negusi cheese

meat burek with yogurt

sarma

Vranac (red wine) and Krstach (white wine)

Niksicko beer

desserts: baklava, tulumba, shampita, vanilice, padobranci

Fourth Stop: Two Pearls of Bosnia and Herzegovina

Breakfast at panorama over Sarajevo, Ispod Grada, Bosnia and Herzegovina

For Sarajevo, I was really hyped even before the trip. The primary reason was, of course, the history of this place. Point of focus: the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sophie triggering World War I. Time: June 28, 1914, 10 in the morning. Place: Latin Bridge.

As I was fangirling over the epic episode, I should also mention the sheer delight of this city. Sarajevo is filled with the distinctly Turkish ambiance (visiting Istanbul three months prior, I could not ignore the similarities between the two cities) - and yet it's a European capital. It has the tiny street teahouses with old men chatting and smoking their days away, muezzins shouting early in the morning, heavily clothed women and bubbling Eastern bazaars. But it also has eclectic architecture, Mediterranean cobbled streets flowing down the mountainous hills to the Miljacka river, and 15th to 19th century Christian churches. Starting at the White Fortress crowning the city, we roamed down the winding streets to the river bank, than had a real breakfast in the labyrinth of Bascarsija (I'm ashamed I still cannot pronounce that) and then made a stop for coffee at Cajdzinica Dzirlo.

Cajdzinica Dzirlo and it's host

I don't usually give personal opinions of places to eat - they change to fast, and TripAdvisor still does it better. But this one is the number and a renown site of its own - people who know Sarajevo will surely know this little teahouse in the city center. Take all the best things you want during your tea/coffee time, and you get this place.

Splendid drinks with plenty of choice. Ambiance and atmosphere supported by great view. Perfect location near Bascarsija. Most welcoming, authentic and fun host.

You feel as the dearest of friends not a random tourist. This place is a must for a perfect trip. I'd come back to Bosnia just to visit here again.

Besides, it's here that I fell in love with Bosnian coffee (a direct take-away from the Turkish coffee of the Ottoman Empire). I was already fond of the Turkish way to drink black thick coffee. In Bosnia, it is served with a sweet refreshing sherbet (ideally; more commonly, it's a glass of cold water) and a bite of Turkish delight on the side - perfect combination for a hot day.

As a side attraction, I learned how to serve and drink Bosnian coffee. Coffee is made in cezve and served along with another cezve of hot water. First comes adding the water to the coffee and some light stirring. Then coffee creme is carefully gathered from the top and put in the kahve finjani, a tiny porcelain cup in a metal stand. Coffee is poured in afterwards, resulting in a cup of strong, fragrant and relaxing marvel. A sip of coffee is alternated with a gulp of sherbet - I don't think I ever had a better drink.

Combined with the elevated view of the city center and the flocks of pigeons pirouetting around the roofs, this was the experience that ultimately summed up Sarajevo and this whole vacation for me. Yet the Bosnian adventures continued. Walking around the city and gaping at the listed attractions, we were caught in a dreadful storm. It rolled down the mountain tops in low black clouds, rumbling and growling as a wild animal and then pouring down in ice beads the size of a fingernail.

Latin Bridge before the storm ensued

Me and my friend, we have this weird thing we do on the photos, arms and legs spread around in a semblance of a six-pointed star. We do that once per every new city we visit, and, due to the plan, Latin Bridge was the designated site for Sarajevo. We failed spectacularly though, taking cover from the hailstorm on the tram stop for nearly half an hour.

As the storm subsided and turned into regular heavy rain, we plodded through the streets, knee-deep in murky, chalky, coffee-and-milk colored water, ultimately happy. The traffic was hideous, we missed our train, wet head to toe (I literally poured water out of my shoes) - yet I don't remember a better time from this trip. Besides, we caught the best cevapcici near the bus station - and they were prepared lighting-fast, we were shocked at the speed. Sitting in the bus (finally comfortable) taking us to Mostar, we were languidly enjoying the slack feeling of being prepared for anything coming our way.

Mostar old town and Stari most, view from the minaret of Koski Mehmed Pasina mosque

If you get a chance to walk around Mostar at nighttime, enjoy the lightwork, the cozy streets and the coolness of the evenings near Neretva.

Compared to Sarajevo, Mostar is tiny, one of those exclusively tourist destinations that have one major attraction, a couple of minor sites and plenty of ambiance beckoning huge crowds year after year. In a way, it resembles Kazimierz Dolny but with the whimsical quirk of Turkish and Southern European minutiae framing the singular character of the town.

Naturally, the crowds flock on and around the Old bridge, the main site of Mostar. As for me, the narrow painfully cobbled streets (do try to wear shoes with thicker soles) outcharmed the bridge.

Neretva river and panorama of Mostar from Koski Mehmed Pasina mosque's minaret

There is a choice of cozy hidden gems: the Crooked bridge is less famous but instead drowning in greenery. The beach under the Old bridge gives the ability to dip your feet into Neretva (the water is freezing, we nearly got cramps while hastily taking photos - but it's clear and wonderfully refreshing under the blazing sun). The garden of the Koski Mehmed Pasina mosque offers enchantingly picturesque view of the river and small houses under red roofs, transforming the town into an artist's paradise.

It's also possible to get up the minaret of Koski Mehmed Pasina mosque, an activity I believed to be forbidden for non-muezzins, non-Muslims and (even more so) females. The spinning stairs inside the minaret are entertainingly narrow, the balcony on top offers a grand view. And the mere fact of being in a half-prohibited place was enough to pleasantly tickle the nerves and positively reinforce the experience.

What to see in Sarajevo:

Bljela tabija (White fortress)

Zuta tabija (Yellow fortress)

City Hall

Latin Bridge

Bascarsija

Sebilj

Old Orthodox Church

Cathedral of Jesus' Heart

Orthodox Cathedral

Gazi Husrev Bey' Mosque and Bezistan

Taslihan

Lunar clock

Old Synagogue (Museum of the Jews of Bosnia and Herzegovina)

What to see in Mostar:

Stari most (Old bridge)

Crooked bridge

Koski Mehmed Pasina dzamija

Karadoz-begova dzamija

Mostar Peace Bell tower

What to eat:

cevapi

meat under sac (veal or lamb cooked under special lid)

cufte (meatballs)

duvec (vegetable stew)

drasak (pea stew)

ajvar

somun (flatbread)

ustipci (fried dough balls)

Bosnian coffee (and I cannot stress this enough!)

salep

serbe (sherbet)

ajran (salty yogurt drink)

Fifth Step: Dubrovnik, Croatia

The walls of Dubrovnik, Croatia

Dubrovnik is another historic town heavy on tourists, and for a good reason: it's gorgeous. The beauty of city walls unparalleled, Dubrovnik is truly the pearl of the Adriatic sea. The preservation of the old town is worthy of praise, on par with old Tallinn. But that's it - talking about Croatian people, they're quite the unwelcoming type.

To get from Mostar to Dubrovnik, one has to cross the Bosnian-Croatian border tree times. In and out, and in again, and all in just under two hours. And the border guards stamp your passport every time.

The tension of Croatians runs high. From our hostess to most waiters, locals don't seem friendly at all - a surprising fact given the contagious amicability of Bosnians. The prices in Dubrovnik are also considerably higher while coffee is considerably worse (although, to tell the truth, after Bosnia, every cup of coffee I had was so-so at best).

Yet, despite the ranting, Dubrovnik truly is a city with its own character. The first impression was: stairs. The whole Balkan region is like that, built on the hillsides, streets narrow and oftentimes only suited for pedestrians. Dubrovnik is the quintessence of the concept. The hills it is built on are indented with stair-streets, and the road for cars winds and twists, curling in circles through the city like a giant snake. To get from point A to point B, it is easier to clamber up the stairs. Besides, one gets all the best views that way.

Stradun with the belltower of Franciscan monastery, Dubrovnik, Croatia

The old town is enchanting. The narrow streets tightened in the restrains of smooth stone are cool and soothing at sunset. Dark green shutters emphasize the rhythm of the delicate houses. Our early evening in Dubrovnik was drowning in pinkish haze, enchanting and amorous, and the screams of seagulls cluttered up the slowly darkening skies.

The city was built by Venetians, the fact completely obvious to anyone remotely acquainted with architecture. Lacking the tell-tale canals, Dubrovnik instead becomes the labyrinth of tiny streets, a photographer's wet dream at every turn. Stradun, the major street, is full of tourists, day or night, but the back streets are shatteringly quiet as the night falls, almost to the point of feeling haunted.

Panorama of Dubrovnik from city walls: red roofs and Franciscan belltower

The city transforms by the daytime. The blistering sun reflects from the smooth surfaces of the white stone and hits you from all sides: it truly is scorchingly hot. The city walls bring no relief; even the sea breeze is but a short refreshment.

A hat, a bottle of water and a sunscreen are obligatory items on the walls of Dubrovnik anytime from April to October.

But oh the vistas the minute details! Walking around the whole old town and observing how it was built and how it lives from the height of the walls, one is immersed in the history of the relationship between Venetians, this great seapower, and the Balkan region, the focus of their constant conflicts with the Turks. Catching glimpses of inner yards and narrow streets, it is easy to imagine how people lived several centuries ago - as it seems nothing changed much.

The city walls are full of tourists, naturally; a different experience is provided by fort Lovrijenac to the west of the city. Not only it gives a different perspective of Dubrovnik, but is also more spacious as a fortification and is closer to nature (the gorge under its walls lets the imagination run free and create hidden grottoes and caves full of wonders, treasures and sunken ships).

Dubrovnik is surely a city one must visit. If time permits, it's good to have a swim in the Adriatic sea, enjoy the famous Croatian beaches, get up to the fortress on the top of the hill to catch a glimpse of the whole city, and indulge in the rich history. But overstaying your visit is not wise when the much more hospitable Montenegro is just in a couple of hours drive down the coast.

What to see:

old town

St Francis church

Large Onofrio's Fountain

Dominican monastery

crkva Svetog Spasa

Sponza Palace

Orlandov stup

Mala Onofrijeva Fontana

Rector's Palace

St Blaise church

St Ignatius church

Church of the Annunciation

city walls (Bokar, Minceta, Saint John, Buza gate)

Fort Lovrijenac

Lokrum island

Carska tvrdava

What to eat:

raznjici (meat skewers)

zagrebacki odrezak (stuffed veal steak)

lignje (squid)

salata od hobotnice (octopus salad)

crni rizot (cuttlefish risotto)

manestra (soup)

zganci (polenta)

palacinke (crepes)

rozata (creme cake)

Malvazija (dessert wine)

Coming Back to Montenegro

Crkva Svete Klare/Svetog Antuna, Kotor, Montenegro

Planning the trip, it's important to have calm days mixed into the mass of those full of mad activity.

Herceg Novi was our first in the row of more relaxing experiences, a good choice with its lush green streets cascading down the mountain to the Bay of Kotor and the quaint atmosphere of a pre-tourist season. A comparatively young city, it still bears the scars of Venetian dominion, flaunting the old fortress, dark and grey and heavy over the light touristy air of the coast resort.

According to the newly established tradition, I got a day off the trip to catch up with my friend from work who moved with his family to Herceg Novi couple of years back. The rest of the two days were submerged in a daze of slow breakfasts, warm days that tasted like strawberry and tepid waves licking away the tiredness of the feet.

What to see in Herceg Novi:

Citadella

Forte Mare

Crkva Svetog Jeronima

Church of Holy Archangel Michael

Sahat Kula

Kanli Kula

Kotor old town, view of the Fort of St John

For the next day, we picked our speed up, cramming in Kotor and Tivat, and a circle trip around the Bay of Kotor. I still have my regrets about not being able to make a stop in Perast and pay respects to the famous island Our Lady of the Rocks.

The good thing about Kotor is that, although there are many things to see, they are all clustered together (like old well-preserved towns tend to do) - you only need a day to see it all. The only exception is the Fort of St John - probably the main attraction of Kotor, not counting the old town itself.

The streets of Kotor old town

The popularity of this place is primarily based on three things: its age (including historic and militaristic value starting from VI century), the magnificent views it gives from the top over the Bay of Kotor, and its sheer size (it's one of the most significant fortifications of this type in Europe, with 4.5 km long walls).

Kotor may lack the posh sumptuousness of Dubrovnik and the green curvy coziness of Mostar. Yet it is definitely its own thing, a small intimately built town in the clutches of grey stone with sultry air of tiny squares with towering churches and cathedrals, with palaces on every step - Kotor feels like a museum.

What to see in Kotor:

Gurdic Gate (South Gate)

St Triphun's Cathedral

The Drago Palace

The Pima Palace

The Buca Palace

The Palace Bizanti

The Sea Gate with the Tower of Town Guards

The Clock Tower

Duke Palace

Arsenal Building

Crkva Svete Klare/Svetog Antuna

Crkva Sv Nikole

Crkva Sv Luke

Crkva Sv Mihaila

Karampana

The Grgurina Palace

Crkva Sv Ana

Svete Marije Koledate

North Gate

Kotor's Castle of San Giovanni

Church of Our Lady of Health

Fort of St John

Dancing Girl Statue with a view of Old Budva

We spent the night in nearby Tivat - not a historic but resort destination, a city full of luxurious hotels and yachts shimmering off the competing degrees of splendor. As the high season didn't start yet, the city was immersed in a sluggish slumber.

Budva, on the other hand, as the major tourist hub of Montenegro, was boiling and lively, offering a bit of everything. UNESCO-protected old town neighbored fashionable boutiques and giant malls. Quay was full of restaurants offering meats and seafoods of all sorts, narrow streets of old town offered cozier cafes and confectioneries. The beaches, both in-town and on the close-by 'Hawaii' island, beckon with warm transparent water and hidden caverns ready for relaxation or exploration.

The old town of Budva is comparatively small. Half a day is enough to explore it - but the best part about it is the many cozy back streets, dead ends and cubbies that tell their small stories and beckon you to rest and observe the world around.

There is a small street that always has cats pooling under one of the windows - obviously a feeding place. An inner yard of Citadela features a cafe under bright white umbrellas - the perfect combination with old stone, deep blue sea and the green vines to create the true Mediterranean feel. One of the buildings has an old library turned posh restaurant with displayed models of the famous ships.

I've found my favorite cozy little place on the thick wall of the old town near Ricardova Glava beach. A small square surrounded by churches used for concerts and often featuring weddings. A quaint corner of the earth that caught my attention as a street musician was lightly plucking guitar strings for a mellow, sweetly sorrowful melody interweaving into the song of the wind. I go back in my memories to that place - hot crude stone behind my back, sun and seagulls over my head, and fresh warm breeze in my face.

The second day was completely dedicated to exploring the beaches of Budva. The beaches of the tourist zone are sandy; the old town has pebbles.

One of the beaches on Hawaii island, Budva

Seeing Ricardova Glava for the first time, the scene catches one off guard: people are bathing in the clear waters of Adriatic sea right under the rough walls of the church dating back to 840 AD built of darkened pebbles and whitened mortar, battered by time and seawinds. The narrow walk from Ricardova Glava to Mogren beaches conceals a set of hidden gems - from Dancing Girl Statue (one of the symbols of Budva) to the rugged, indented mountain walls on one side and the rocky coast on the other, open-air vista of the sea and Hawaii island, leading to the ambitious route over the rocks and boulders to yet another viewpoint of the city.

And then there's the Hawaii island. Boats take turns to drop off locals and tourists alike on the island full of beaches suited for every taste, with cozy lagoons and hidden grottos.

Best to take the boat that makes a detour to Sveti Stefan - the most luxurious island in the vicinity of Budva, completely covered in medieval red-roofed white-stoned houses and requiring a permit just to get in, people roaming from the coast to the town walls during low tides.

What to see in Budva:

old town

Citadela

Ruins of a Roman church

St Jean Baptist church

Church of the Holy Trinity

Church built in 840 AD

Former St Sara church

Poet plaza

Roman grave

Ricardova Glava (beach)

Dancing Girl Statue

Mogren beaches

Hawaii (island of Sv Nikolai)

Crkva Sv Nikolai (Hawaii)

island of Sveti Stefan

Zipline near Durdevica Tara Bridge, Montenegro

Our last day was decided beforehand.

Everyone going to Montenegro advises to take a tour of Tara canyons. True, the nature is absolutely worth seeing - although I'd prefer taking my time at certain places not rushing as the guided tours do.

I don't know if it's typical of this mountainous region, but that day was rainy, getting us wet from time to time. Durmitor actually got me soaked through to my bones - it's usually chilly here, and the rain made its contribution. But the nature is breathtaking - the dark, nearly black pines, the incredible ravines of rugged sharp stones and brash winds, the sweeping rivers of boiling, madly foaming water, the weak bushes clinging to the tiniest cracks and crevices, and gradually fading off to give way to the bare rocks precipitously piercing the high skies.

Zipline across the Durdevica Tara Bridge actually allowed to experience the void first-hand.

Tara canyon, Montenegro

Forget the 'short line is as good as the long one'. No it's not. It's short - meaning that it takes nearly half of your time on the zipline away from you.

The first moment was quite scary due to the push at the back I got from one of the guys who geared me up - but the anxious thoughts of my-god-there's-five-hundred-feet-of-nothing-under-me were almost immediately swept out of my head by the sheer rapture of damn-I'm-flying-and-it's-so-beautiful. That's something to experience by yourself, no one will be able to translate it to you accurately.

The final adventure was as unexpected as it was welcomed. Summer snow is an occurrence I've never yet experienced in my life - that is, before this trip. Hail is not that common but it happens from time to time (there's one in my memory from when I was around 7, where the hails were the size of a child's fist). But the one we encountered on our way back from the Montenegrin black forests was unprecedented - not only it was accompanied by strong wind and showers but also covered the ground in freezing white blanket, the strangest sight among the rich, plentiful wild greens. The trip back was soothing and distressing at once, with the soft rocking of the comfortable bus on the winding mountain roads and the rapid rapping of hail over the roof.

Big Finale

The Hawaii Beach, Budva, Montenegro

Coming back to Kiev, I was firm in my belief: best trips happen when you plan everything yourself, encounter a bunch of weird and fun adventures and meet challenges head-on. This Balkan tour reconciled me with my turbulent self: the bad things, the good things - it's worth saluting everything that comes our way. What's a trip without obstacles; what's a trip that tells you nothing about yourself, people you travel with and world around you? Cheers!

[nonquebecoisayul]

Bevezetés a Sziklás-hegységbe

Ismet uton, ismet ekezetek nelkul irok a jo oreg kis MacBook Airen, ami mar olyan sok utra elkisert bennunket. A haloszobank plafonjaba epitett ablakon epp csendes eso kopog, aminek nagyon orulunk, mert elviszi a fustot es csokkenti a szarazsagot. Nagy szerencsenk van: eddigi utunkat alig-alig befolyasoltak a most mar hivatalosan is a tavalyi rekordot megdonto erdotuzek. Sot ma meg is masztunk egy nagy hegyet: 1700 meter magasrol csodalhattam a Columbia-folyo volgyet es a kornyezo hegycsucsokat!

Kell-e ennel tobb szuletesnapi ajandekkent? Aligha, megis tudtuk tetezni. Niki ratalalt egy helyi reklamlapban a Citadella nevre keresztelt magyar etteremre itt, kvazi a vilag vegen, egy kis, gyogyvizes telepules szelen, a fenyok kozott. Igy a turat kovetoen este egy kupica vilmossal, gulyaslevessel, becsi szelettel es palacsintaval unnepeltunk. Es kivalo tarsasagban! Mintha csak otthon lettem volna - egy kellemes nap maszassal, majd valami kiados hazikoszt:)

Tegnap atvettuk a kocsit a Calgary-i repteren, majd a varost skippelve, egyenesen a Rockies fele vettuk az iranyt. Egyedulallo latvany, ahogy kozeledve a preri szelere mintegy sorfalkent ott huzodnak ezek a nagy havas hegycsucsok csipkezve. Aztan egyszer csak beersz egy volgybe, es onnan csak hegyek, hegyek, hegyek.

Banff-fal kezdtunk, a hires albertai udulohellyel, ahol borongos volt ugyan az ido es furcsa is volt a montreali hajnali 25 fok utan a nedves 10 fokban bandukolni. Igazi holiday centrum ez, sok emberrel, hatalmas csucsokkal, hotelekkel, uzletekkel es medvebiztos kukakkal.

Banffbol 2 orat vezettunk a Columbia-folyo volgyeig a Kootenay National Parkon at. 2 teljes ora semmi telepulessel, csak hegyekkel, fenyokkel es sajnos sok helyutt meg mindig gozolgo-fustolo hegyoldalakkal. Elkepeszto latvanyt nyujtottak a megfeketedett hegyhatak, olykor mint valami csontvaz, alltak poren a fenyok torzsei! A turistautak jelentos resze ezeken a teruleteken jarhatatlan es a tuz miatt meg mindig veszelyes is. Dobbenetes volt latni a gleccser alatt fustolgo erdoreszeket. Jo darabig szotlanul figyeltuk a kocsibol az irdatlan pusztulas nyomait...

Most egy Invermere nevu telepules hetvegi hazas ovezeteben vagyunk, ahol az utcaban Rafa ozeket latott legeleszni. A haz, amiben vagyunk, igazi kanadai cottage hatalmas belso terekkel, kandalloval, nagy kerttel es sok fenyovel. Ez az a Kanada, ahogyan annak idejen foldrajzoran elkepzeltuk. Minden hatalmas es fenyves. Es mindenki nagyon-nagyon kedves, segitokesz: micsoda elmeny!

[gagab95-blog]

Mese mese mátka

Az elkövetkezendőkben mesés lények lakta 5 varázslatos lengyel város bemutatására kerül sor;

A macik városa - Zakopane

 Rendkívül izgatottan és lelkesen vágtam neki ennek a kirándulásnak, mert szobatársaim mesélték, hogy vannak macik Zakopanéban és gondoltam, végre láthatok egyet legalább távolról ... de csak plüssöket láttam meg macikat hűtőmágneseken és különböző tipikus turistáknak szóló csecsebecséken. Egyébként Zakopane a Magas-Tátra lengyel részének legfontosabb városa és fontos téli központ. 3 napot töltöttünk ezen a csodás helyen és megnéztük a Szent Kelemen fatemplomot, ami az 1850-es évek közepén épült, különleges fából készült építmény, belsejében népi-barokk faszobrokkal, illetve a sajtpiacot és a speciális zakopanei stílusú épületeket. De túráztunk is és felmásztunk az Morskie Okohoz (Halas-tó), a Magas-Tátra legnagyobb tavához, ami 1393 m magasan található. (Igen, elég meredek út vezetett fel, főleg, hogy még kora március volt és fent még jég és hó borította a hegyet és olvadó csúszó hóban próbáltunk felfelé caplatni, viszont a látvány miatt megérte.) Továbbá a Gubałówkához is felmentünk, ide már siklóval jutottunk fel és csak gyönyörködtünk a látványban. Az utolsó nap pedig wellnesseztünk és ellátogattunk a zakopanei élményfürdőbe, ahol a kinti medencéket is használhattuk, mert kellemesen meleg vizűek voltak és a Tátrára nyílt kilátás. Ugyan igazi macit nem láttam, de ennek ellenére bátran ajánlom mint síelésre, mind túrázásra. :) 

Töprenkedjünk a törpökkel Wrocław városában

Wrocław Szilézia történelmi fővárosa. Lakosságát tekintve a negyedik legnagyobb lengyel város. Főtere, a Rynek tele van színes házakkal, vidám hangulatot árasztva és fotózásra csábítanak. Krakkóhoz való hasonlatosságát az épületei csak alátámasztják, a gótikus Városháza pompája például erre kitűnő példa. A város szimbólumává váltak törpék, városszerte háromszáznál is több törpe szobrocska található. Izgalmas játék a wrocławi városnézés alatt keresgélni, majd felfedezni a hétköznapi életüket élő törpéket. (Wait girls, there is a dwarf!) A történetük az 1980‐as évekig nyúlik vissza és a „Narancs alternatíva“ szervezet nevéhez kötődik. Ők békés eszközökkel szerették volna megmutatni a nagyközönségnek a kommunista rezsim elleni alternatívát, falfestményeiket ugyan a rendőrök rendre lefestették, melyre válaszul ezek helyére törpéket kezdtek felrajzolni. 2001‐ben került a szervezet gyűlekező helyén felállításra minden törpe atyja, az első bronzból készült szobor, majd a város több helyén követték kisebbek, de mind a mai napig ő a legnagyobb közülük méretében. Az utódok mindössze 20 – 30 centiméteres nagyságúak, és pont azt csinálják, amit az emberek is, vagyis dolgoznak, bankolnak, alszanak vagy éppen fagylaltot nyalogatnak. Nagyon tetszett a Japán kert, a Tumski híd és a Hydropolis, az utóbbi egy modern, interaktív múzeum az óceánok élővilágáról rengeteg monitorral, animációval, videóval és játékkal. Minden információ elérhető angolul is és külön örömöt jelent használni az okos kütyüket. 

Poznan esete a kecskékkel

Poznan már a X-XI. században a Piast állam központja volt, és már 1253-ban városi jogot szerzett, ami Lengyelország egyik legöregebb városává teszi. Poznan névjegye a kecske. Poznanban a kecskék jelenléte a városháza tornyán egy legendához kötődik, ami egy szerencsétlen szakácsról és két kecske bravúros meneküléséről szól, az elkerülhetetlen halál elől. Történt ugyanis, hogy amikor Bartłomej lakatosmester befejezte óráját, és bemutatta volna a városi tanácsnak és a vajdának, ünnepséget szerveztek az uraságok tiszteletére. Az ünnepi készülődés alatt a figyelmetlen szakács odaégette az őzsültet.  Nem szerette volna azonban, hogy ügyetlensége kiderüljön, egy külvárosi rétről ellopott két kecskét. Az ügyet végül nem sikerült eltussolnia, mert a kecskék kiszöktek a konyhából és felfutottak a városháza tornyára és örömükben szarvukkal öklelni kezdtek. (az egyik verzió szerint felhívták az összegyűltek figyelmét egy kis tűzre, amitől leéghetett volna a város). A szórakoztatott vajda bort adományozott a szakácsnak, a kecskéknek életet, Bartłomej mesternek pedig megparacsolta, hogy az órához tegye hozzá a „bolondos szerkezetet”.

Ajánlott látnivalók: Régi Piactér és Városháza, Dóm-sziget, Császári kastély, Királyi kastély, Citadella Park, Legszentebb Szűz Mária templom. 

Igazából nagyon vicces volt az ott tartózkodásunk, mert péntek este valami ünnepség volt a főtéren és eredeti lengyel mulatós dj zenék szóltak .... nagyon keményen karcolt, csak szeleteltek és aprítottak a táncolók :D 

War-ra váró Sawa hableány Varsóban

Neptunus félelmetes háromágú szigonya és Gdansk

[carriebradshawsprotege]

Budapest Tour is the Great Option This Summer season

Budapest is a person of the attractive locations of the environment. It is prosperous in organic attractiveness. From historic position of view, Budapest is an essential spot. Some of the fantastic buildings and monuments of the earth are built in this part of the environment. This area has a hedonistic and complex facet. From opulent lodges to countryside pubs, Budapest delivers every little thing to make your excursion seriously attention-grabbing and enjoyable. This Hungarian metropolis is becoming a layout scene with a month to month market that capabilities furnishings, chic garments and lovely components and hip boutiques. Apart from its classy equipment and dresses, Budapest also features mouth watering cuisines and beverages. Tokaji wine and paprika-accented dishes and the palinka (the countrywide brandy) are also quite well-known. Nowadays numerous other mouth watering goods are served to the meals enthusiasts by the amazing chefs of Budapest. Nightclubs, cafes, bars and modern sops have sprung up throughput the lanes of Jewish Quarter in Budapest. Meals shops supply vibrant inbound links to the customs, financial system and dialects of a city. Budapest is one of the most awesome places to go to. It gives a range of going to spots, restaurants, motels, gardens and monuments. Most of the well known sights of Budapest are concentrated n the Buda facet and Castle Hill. Castle Hill gives a variety of vacationer places. The major sights consist of, the Royal Palace, Countrywide Gallery, the Fisherman's Bastion, Matthias Church and heaps more. You can see a superior assortment of paintings in the Nationwide Gallery on the Castle Hill. Matthias Church has wonderful importance. There are several other museums on Castle Hill. These involve, The Tunes Museum (involves a huge range of musical instruments), the Historic Museum of Budapest, Marzipan Museum, the Navy Museum, Museum of Medieval Judaism, Pharmacy Museum. The Danube Bridges are wonderful and attractive. Most of the visitors like to take a trip via this river lender to witness the natural beauty and charm of this spot. Lanchid is pretty well known. It is built of chains. To have a outstanding glimpse of the bridges you might want to climb to Buda's Gellert Hill (Citadella). You can have an amazing view of the bridges from this location. Boat using is also a excellent notion. You can have a passionate and attractive look at of the area at evening. A further gorgeous put is Margaret Island. This location is seriously charming and good. The substantial parks of Budapest also provide as excellent tension busters. You can wander and relax in these parks. There are some critical buildings and monuments in Budapest. The Parliament setting up bears exclusive significance. People can move inside the Parliament home only for the duration of guided tours. St. Stephen's Basilica is a further fantastic attraction of this spot. If you have any inquiries concerning the place and how to use London Bus tours, you can get in touch with us at our web-page.The key Budapest church is a crucial example of neoclassical architecture. The Jewish Museum and the Great Synagogue are also frequented by the visitors.

[vemprany]

Hudson Yards

Depois de meses em obras e muita expectativa, finalmente foi inaugurado no dia 15 de março o mais aguardado e mais caro empreendimento da história de Nova York desde o Rockefeller Center: o Hudson Yards.

Localizado no Chelsea, colado no Highline Park e construído sobre um pátio de trens, esse enorme complexo transformou completamente a região. Só em sua construção foram investidos 6 bilhões de dólares. Compreende um shopping com 100 lojas e 20 restaurantes, jardins públicos, espaço para artes, escola, torres residenciais com 4.000 apartamentos e muito mais. E o acesso é facílimo: fica a poucos metros da estão 34 street - Hudson Yards da linha 7 do metrô.

No shopping, apresentado como o "próximo grande destino de compras de Nova York”, são encontradas lojas como Neiman Marcus, Banana Republic, MAC, Coach, Zara, H&M e muito mais. Entre as opções gastronômicas estão o Citadella, Shake Shack, Bluestone Lane, Bouchon, Maison Kayser, Van Leeuwen Artisan Ice Cream, Sweetgreen, Fuku, Estiatorio Milo, Mercado Little Spain e outros.

Porém, há muito mais no Hudson Yards. Uma das principais atrações é o Vessel, um colosso de aço de 45 metros que se eleva no centro do jardim externo, atraindo todos os olhares, até de quem passa no Highline Park. São 2.500 degraus individuais, 80 pontos de parada e 154 lances interconectados de escadas que, juntos, criam um caminho vertical de cerca de 1,5 quilômetro. A enorme plataforma, projetada por Heatherwick Studios na Inglaterra, foi criada na Itália e viajou de navio até Nova York.

Visitar o Vessel é uma experiência ímpar. Ele funciona diariamente das 10h às 21h e os são ingressos gratuitos. Reserve o seu aqui.   

Já os jardins públicos encantam com 29.000 plantas e 200 árvores, em um total de 14 acres de espaço verde aberto ao público, que pode curtir bons momentos em seus bancos. Como está construído sobre um pátio de trens, o que faz a temperatura chegar a altos níveis, foi instalado um sistema de ventilação alimentado por 15 grandes ventiladores e uma rede de tubos no concreto para circular líquidos de resfriamento para manter as plantas sempre frescas.

Outro espaço bastante aguardado, mas que só será inaugurado em 5 de abril é o The Shed. Trata-se de um novo centro de artes de cerca de 2 mil metros quadrados com uma cobertura externa móvel e telescópica, um teatro de caixa preta de 500 lugares e um salão flexível que pode acomodar 1.250 pessoas ou 3.000 em pé. Ele também terá espaço de ensaio e um laboratório criativo para novos artistas. Confira aqui a programação do que está por vir no The Shed. 

Há também o Snark Park, um espaço de exposição permanente do estúdio de design Snarkitecture, com sede em Nova York. Ele trará instalações imersivas com colaborações de marca e eventos que vão desafiar os visitantes a viverem experiências inusitadas.

Para finalizar, será inaugurado em 2020 o The Edge, que será o mais novo observatório da cidade, a 335 metros de altura e com um piso transparente que permitirá aos visitantes flutuar sobre a cidade. Situado no 100º andar, será nada menos do que a mais alta área artificial de observação no hemisfério ocidental e a quinta mais alta do mundo.

Como se pode ver, o Hudson Yards é um projeto fenomenal que transforma definitivamente o panorama não apenas da região, como de toda a cidade de Nova York. Para o alto e avante.

https://www.hudsonyardsnewyork.com/ 20 Hudson Yards

THE VESSEL

THE SHED

[anoverseasadventure]

The Homeland

We arrived in Budapest on a Friday morning. My allergies from Austria had gone from bad to worse and it felt more like a sinus infection. I was feeling absolutely awful and we were all pretty confused about the transportation and money situation. We eventually found our way to a metro, and then a tram, and finally to our hostel! We dropped our things off and ventured into town for a full day of exploring! First we walked to a park which had a whole tree dedicated to Michael Jackson. Very weird- But kinda cool ¯\_(ツ)_/¯. Then we walked toward the Danube river to see the Shoes on the Danube. From there we crossed the chain bridge, connecting Buda and Pest, to climb up castle hill. The view from the top was beautiful, but not the best view we were to see that day. We explored castle hill, weaving in and out of the castle, looking at little souvenir shops and snapping some pics before venturing on. The main attraction of the day was to climb to the top of the Citadella. This was a HIKE and to be honest, although it was not the largest hike of my life (shout out Patagonia and Scotland), it sure did feel like it- due to the condition of my sinuses and my lack of water. However getting to the top was very much worth it. The views of both sides of the river were spectacular! Even better than castle hill, we were up so much higher and it was breathtaking. We walked down and headed back into town looking for a pub we were recommended. On our way we stumbled into the shopping district where I was able to find myself a new adventure-pack! I haven't mentioned before, but the backpack I was using for my daily excursions was about two more adventures away from completely dying. It was ripped everywhere and actually covered in bird shit (shout out to the pigeons in Prague) So I'm happy I was able to find a suitable replacement for a good price! We then were able to find our pub which was very funky with momentos from every guest pinned to the wall. The three of us left a US dollar, signed in pink pen, on the wall:) after dinner we went back to the hostel, showered and rested before going out that night. I was still feeling under the weather, but I couldn't miss an opportunity to go to the infamous ruin bars, so I put on my big girl pants and ventured out for an hour- only ordering orange juice at the bar. The atmosphere was amazing, especially on a Friday night, and if I was feeling better I could have stayed there for hours. But after I saw everything there was to see, I walked home to my bed, leaving the girlies to have their fun. The next morning we woke up and headed to the Széchenyi thermal baths! We spent our whole day sunnin and splashin and relaxin. It was SO nice. We even ran into a couple we met on the beer tour in Prague! Again, what a small freaking world! When we were all tuckered out from the sun we headed back to the hostel to drop our bags and look for some grub. The hostel recommended a cheap Hungarian kitchen that I chose, while the girls opted for some burgers. I had a nice solo dinner of some healing home cooked beef goulash and mashed potatoes. That night we stayed in and went to bed early to prepare for our journey to Italy the next day. My homeland, the land of my ancestors, stole my heart and called me to stay. The beautiful architecture and landscape took my breath away and I cannot wait to return one day. Next stop: Venice!

[heliocentricworld]

Budapest?

November 25th – 29th, 2017

We went to Budapest. There was a cheap flight from Amsterdam and that’s really the only reason we ended up in Hungary. We knew almost nothing about Hungary and Budapest before going. So, here is what I learned.

1. Budapest it crazy beautiful.

Almost the whole time we were there it was rainy and overcast, but we could still see breathtaking views. Anything near and…

[lostandfoundinbp]

Hiking inside the city? Well, it isn’t impossible in Budapest (honestly, nothing is impossible in this madness)! Actually, it isn’t surprising if you think about geography. Budapest is divided by the Danube into two parts. Pest is the flat part, and Buda is… the hilly one!!!

That was pretty good news for us since we love hiking. Being surrounded by nature, far from the noises of the city. For us, this is the real recreation, when we can recharge our own dead battery. Do you feel the same? Read our guide to get ready for the new – inside the city – adventure!

Our first advice: be prepared!

We had to learn the hard way that hiking – even if you don’t need to leave the borders of the city – isn’t an easy walk in a park. Here is the list, how you can be prepared!

Proper shoes

No flip-flops, no converse, and of course no high heels (they are not for high- hills, haha). In Budapest, you don’t need the most expensive hiking boots, but at least cheap hiking shoes are recommended. I used my running shoes and I failed. Literally. In the mud.

Waterproof clothes

Check the weather forecast before you leave! And if it says there is a chance for rain, don’t trust in your luck! It will rain! Especially if you leave home without your raincoat. So if you don’t want to be the part of the “sweating + cold rain = being sick for two weeks” equation, then bring that raincoat!

Food and drinks

Taking care of hydration is recommended. And some food can be useful too. Especially if you get lost – as we did – and have no idea when you will find your way back to civilization and be able to buy gyros.

Know the way!

Study carefully the itinerary! You can be lost easily in the Buda hills, but don’t worry! Even if you find yourself on a different route, you will be able to get out of the forest. Don’t forget, you are still close to the city! Bear Grills skills are not required here.

Other useful information:

There are plenty of hiking groups in Budapest. Unfortunately, the websites are mostly in Hungarian, but they are not too hard to understand (thanks for the icons, not the language).

Here https://tturak.hu/ for example, they organize hikings all around Hungary. There is a small fee you have to pay when you show up, but in exchange for the money, you will stay on the right route for sure! They even go for night hiking, which sounds like great fun. Sadly even if we planned to join them, something ( sickness, travel, or just bad weather) always intervened.

An other option for finding hiker partners is the Facebook group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/budapesthikers/

Now you have all the important information about hiking in Budapest. So put your boots on and let’s go on an adventure!

The Apáthy adventure

We met at Széll Kálmán tér early morning. This was our first hike together. We were excited and enthusiastic despite the gray, rainy weather. We were kind of unstoppable, let’s say.

Our real aim was to hike the Apáthy cliff – Kecske hill – Árpád viewpoint circle. Our decision was made after a long research and discussion. We were looking for a route close to the center, but still out of the touristic zone. Something long enough to get tired, but still bearable for our -out of shape- condition. And well, Apáthy cliff seems to be the winner.

  Stop one: Széll Kálmán tér: We met at one of the most typical Budapestian meeting points ever. Which is the clock at Moszkva, sorry, I mean Széll Kálmán square. From here you can take the tram 56 or 61, as we did, to reach the starting point of the hike.

Stop two: Nagyhíd tram station: The starting point, Nagyhíd station is surprisingly still in the located area. After arrival, for around five minutes long, we were just confused, running up and down, trying to find the direction of north and the painted green arrow. This was the sign of our route in the beginning. That’s what we followed blindly, up the Battai stairs, then through muddy paths and dark forest.

  Stop three: Apáthy cliff: That’s how we arrived at our first goal, the Apáthy cliff. From there we had a nice view of the opposite hills. Even tho the weather tried it’s best to hide everything in big gray rain clouds.

  Stop four: Unknown: So we followed the path after the cliff. For a while, a fence protected us from falling down, and at the same time, the flowers from our footsteps as well. We were just walking, sliding, falling and walking again until we found ourself crossing an asphalt road. Here we supposed to follow the red sign, but it won the hide and seek game. Eventually, we just picked a random route and continued to hike. We didn’t know where we are, but suddenly we realized, we arrived at our ultimate goal.

  Stop five: Árpád viewpoint: We have no idea if we did teleport without recognizing, touched a port key or crossed a wormhole, but we were there. Without crossing the Kecske hill and seeing the Lion rock, we arrived at the Árpád viewpoint. Actually, I am not hundred percent sure about the Lion rock, maybe we just didn’t recognize, since you need quite a lot of imagination to say: “Hey! That piece of stone looks like a lion!”. So we agreed to don’t care and just enjoyed the view!

  Last stop: fun: Eventually we totally gave up to follow the original itinerary. We just followed our heart, continued to walk in a random direction. That’s how we found our favourite part of the route. We could hear the birds singing and filled our lungs with fresh air, before going back to the civilization. We even saw a cyclist and agreed in not to copy him ever. The path was narrow and slippery enough to provide us adrenalin even while walking.

  Altogether our hike in numbers: 2 hours of walking; 4.5 km distance; 2 missed stops and 2 tired girls.

If you are looking for a calm place to hike, still close to the center, we encourage you to try this one! And if you made it, please let us know, where did we go wrong! Cheers!

  The János Hegy Adventure

Here comes the story of our second adventure!We mentioned about the hills on the Buda side. That’s the place where János hegy is hiding as well. The reason it caught our attention is the fact, that János hegy is the highest peak between the Buda hills. That’s why we aimed to climb the hill, including the Erzsébet Lookout Tower on the top of it. We wanted to touch the sky and enjoy the view from there. The tower seemed super far away from our starting point, but we made it. Are you asking us, how? Keep reading!

  Stop one: Széll Kálmán tér: We met at Széll Kálmán tér. Yes, again. From here, the bus number 21 and 21A goes to Normafa which is the last station. We started our hike there.

  Stop two: Normafa: First it didn’t seem complicated to find the right way (not like as it was at the Apáthy cliff). There were signs everywhere, we just had to follow the one for “Erzsebet Kilato”. After walking for a while, we saw different signs and colors on the trees. So we just got confused again. Eventually, we needed a big amount of intuition and luck to find our way.

    Stop three: Libegő, felsö állomás: When we came out from the forest and saw the last station of the chair-lift, we knew we made it. Well, almost. The tower still looked so far. The good news is, that it’s not true. It is actually quite close to the station. But the bad news is that you have to climb again. We had two choices to make it: a really sloping road which is tiring, or the stairs, which are even worse.

  Stop four: Erzyébet Lookout Tower: Finally! Here we are! If you get there once, order a cold drink just like we did. You deserve it! Not to mention that you will need to rest and spare some energy for the way back anyway.

  Let’s see our hike in numbers again! : 2 hours of walking, 5.2 km distance, 2 tired girl + 1 really nice weather.

  The Gellért Hill

Okay, maybe it is a bit too mainstream, but still a good hiking spot! The Citadella is one of the most touristic spots in Budapest. But with a very good reason! The view from the top is breathtaking, and of course, the way up there too. So if you are looking for some hiking in the heart of the city, Gellért Hill is a perfect choice.

  Stop one: Liberty Bridge: Our suggestion is to start the hike from Fővámtér. From there, you need to cross the Liberty bridge. After seeing the river view from the bridge, seeing from above will be even more meaningful. That’s why we decided to cross the river from Pest to Buda by walking on Liberty Bridge. At the Gellért Hotel, we found our first green sign and started to climb up the hill.

  Stop two: Gellert Hill Cave Church: We reached our favorite photo shooting spot in five minutes. It was in front of the Gellert Hill Cave Church. We did not enter the church but we took some really nice photos with the Liberty Bridge. Do not forget to take a good look at your surrounding! The view is beautiful but different from every viewpoint. You are rising slowly!

  Stop three: Benches: We continued climbing by following the signs on the trees and stones. We took a few breaks, for example at the benches. It would have been too tiring to go upstairs without stopping in the warm weather. And anyway, we just wanted to enjoy some sight of the amazing Budapest.

  Stop four: Citadella: When we reached the Citadella – which is a symbol of freedom -, whole Budapest was under our feet. We could look down to the whole city. The Danube, the Parliament, the Buda Castle… were stunning. It was amazing to see the whole city like that and it was worth all the steps! Extra tip: If you go there before sunset and wait till it gets dark, you can see the view both at daylight and with the city lights on as well!

Stop five: Statue of Szent Gellert: While walking down, we reached the statue of Szent Gellert by descending from a path surrounded by trees.

Again the summary: one and a half hours, 1.9 km distance, 2 tired girls +gorgeous view, historical statues, feels like home!

            Let’s hike the city! Hiking inside the city? Well, it isn’t impossible in Budapest (honestly, nothing is impossible in this madness)!

[www-delhtfullyitaly]

[sg_popup id=”4″ event=”onload”][/sg_popup] Bergamo, italy, is a lovely medieval town, just 45 minutes from Milan. It enjoys beautiful sceneries, a delightful city center and lots of art and culture and is a perfect opportunity for a nice day trip. This post will tell you how to get there and what to do and see in your one day trip to Bergamo from Milan, including a Bergamo alta tour walking itinerary map.

Why a day trip to Bergamo, Italy? Well, you have spent some days in Milan, enjoyed the bustling life, the glamorous atmosphere, fashion, design, and all the Milanese typical excitement. If you are now looking for something completely different, closer to the “Italian” cliché of history, art, nature and traditional food, then spending one day in  Bergamo, Italy is the best option for you.

Bergamo is a delightful small town, perched on a steep hill side and surrounded by impressive walls. Actually, there are two Bergamo: Bergamo alta (“upper Bergamo”), the historical center, and Bergamo bassa (“lower Bergamo”), built in  more recent times. In this post I will focus on Bergamo alta, but if you have time Bergamo bassa is worth a visit as well. If you plan to spend one full day in Bergamo you will have enough time to visit both.

What is striking about Bergamo Alta is that you don’t feel in Lombardy at all. Maybe because it’s built on a hill, while most Lombardy towns are located in the plain, hence are rather flat. Or because of the colors: light ocher plaster, red bricks walls, grey stone portals, similar to Florentine Pietra Serena.  Oh, and let’s not forget the green hills and mountains in the background. Well, put that all together, and you could easily pretend you’re in Tuscany or Umbria, rather than Lombardy. With, on top of that, some Venetian detail in the windows or in the wells. Quite astonishing, believe me.

Click here in case you would like a Bergamo alta  guided visit including a typical local lunch

Bergamo alta is a maze of of characteristic narrow winding streets, and you can easily get lost (which is actually quite enjoyable!). In case you belong more to the structured traveler kind, here is a Google map with an optimized Bergamo alta walking itinerary (just click on the map to open it).

Getting to Bergamo alta is quite straightforward: you get out from the railway station and take Bus #1 (here is the link to the schedule), which will take up to the old town in less tahn 15 minutes. However, in my view the best way by far to get to Bergamo alta is to go to the top of Viale Vittorio Emanuele and take the little funicular railway (there a bus stop in front of it). The funicular  trundles up past terraced gardens and smart 18th-century villas, finally disappearing under those thick Venetian walls to emerge in the old town.

Before getting out from the funicular station, pay a look at the Caffè della Funivia terrace and enjoy the beautiful view on the plain.

Walk up Santa Maria Maggiore and Piazza Vecchia

Out of the funicular station turn left, walk up via Dinizetti and, suddenly and rather unexpectedly, burst into Piazza del Duomo (cathedral square). Here you will will find two churches: the rather unimpressive cathedral and the astonishing Santa Maria Maggiore and the cappella Colleoni. On your right, the 1340 baptisery completes the square.

Bartolomeo Colleoni, a captain under the Venetian Republic, chose this prestigieous side for his tomb and demolished the sacristy of S. Maria Maggiore to get space for his own mausoleum. This explains the fairly particular look of S. Maria Maggiore façade.

Step into S.Maria Maggiore and – wow! – you will be astonished by the contrast between the Romanesque outside and the opulence of the interior. Notice Gaetano Donizzetti tomb and the 18th century wood carved confessional.

Visit the two curches and the Colleoni chapel, then cross the Palazzo della Ragione arches and get to Piazza Vecchia.  19th century writer Stendhal said this was ‘the most beautiful place on earth’: you may not necessarily agree, but this old square still is a really enjoyable place to rest, maybe while sipping a coffee or an aperitivo at the historical caffè del Tasso.

Piazza Vecchia is exactly like you would imagine a medieval Italian square, with its old fountain, the fancy arches and columns of the civic library on one side and the Palazzo della Ragione (with a nice tower to climb) on the other.

Lunch planning

If you are tired or if it’s already lunch time (or both…), you may sit under the Donizzetti restaurant loggia, and enjoy tasty Bergamo cuisine. Local delicacies include:

Casoncelli (aka Casoncei), sort of ravioli served with butter-fried sage and garlic

Polenta Taragna, a mixture of cornmeal and buckwheat flour, which gives it the characteristic dark color, mixed with butter and casera cheese.

In case Polenta Taragna is not enough for your appetite, you can top it with sausages (salsiccia), local funghi porcini or rabbit stew.

Polenta e Osei: the Bergamo signature dessert, of course inpired by Polenta and invented in relatively recent times. It is made from sponge cake, chocolate, butter, hazelnut creams and rum.

Otherwise, if weather is nice, you could get a pic-nic basket (a real one!) at the Vineria Cozzi, in via Colleoni, left from Piazza vecchia, and have a lovely open air lunch at the Rocca or, even better, in Piazzale Sant’agostino park.

Via Gombito and torre del Gombito

Once you are done with your aperitivo or lunch, walk down via Gombito until the 50 meters tall Gombito tower. Turn right to have a look at the delightful lavatory and its nice hidden square, then continue to piazza del mercato delle scarpe (shoes market square). Yes, you’ve already been there, this is the funicular arrival.

Two options here: if you still want to walk (or if you are having your pic-nic in Piazzale Sant’Agostino), walk down Via di Porta Dipinta, otherwith head left to Via alla Rocca

Down to San Michela al pozzo vecchio and convento di Sant’agostino

Very few tourist walk down this way, which is indeed a good reason to go! The first church you will find on your right is San MIchele al Pozzo Bianco. It dates back to the 8th century and hosts amazing frescoes, including some by Lorenzo Lotto.

Continuing on via Porta Dipinta you will get to the 14th century Augustin Monastery (now Bergamo University) and the lovely piazzale san’Agostino, with its large meadow and beautiful views on the Rocca (Bergamo fortress).

The Rocca (Bergamo fortress)

Continue on via della fara, with nice views from the Venetians city walls over the valley, and then left to Via San Lorenzo, Piazza Mercato del Fieno and via Solata. This will bring you to the Rocca, Bergamo fortress. It’s a relaxed place, now an open air first WW museum, with nice views over the town and the mountains.

Via Colleoni and Cittadella

Back to via Gombito, walk straight to via Colleoni, the busiest street of upper Bergamo. It will lead you to Piazza della Cittadella, once part of a second, bigger fortress, built by the Visconti in the 14th century.

This could be the end of your tour. Just outside the Citadella you will find your bus back to the station.

However, if you still have energy you can walk along the city walls and walk down to porta San Giacomo, which will lead you to lower Bergamo. It’s an enjoyable but rather long walk.

Savy traveller tip

Bergamo is a lovely city, and it deserves a relaxed visit. Unfortunately the upper town gets fairly crowded over the week ends and, often, in the afternoons.

So if you manage to get there early (around 9:00 AM in Summer time is fine) you will enjoy Bergamo is the most appropriate way. Alternatively, what about spending a night in Upper Bergamo? Enjoy the Sunset from the city walls, sip an aperitivo in piazza Vecchia, dine in one of the night restaurants and sleep in an upscale hotel… at half the price you would pay in Milan!

Two really nice hotels worth considering are:

Relais san Lorenzo: top end hotel, recently opened just outside the Cittadella. Great SPA and gorgeous views. Click here to get more info.

Gombit hotel: gorgeous hotel adjacent the Gombito tower. You can’t find anything more central! Modern design and old stone walls create a really original and pleasant atmosphere. Click here for more info.

Click here to find other great places to stay in Bergamo

Hope this was helpful.

Enjoy your One Day trip to Bergamo!

    How to visit Bergamo Italy in one day from Milan Bergamo, italy, is a lovely medieval town, just 45 minutes from Milan. It enjoys beautiful sceneries, a delightful city center and lots of art and culture and is a perfect opportunity for a nice day trip.

[digiclot]

Gellért Hill is the centre of Budapest with the eastern face of the hill has cliffs that overlook the Danube. I took a walk up to the top of the Gellért hill and the surrounding of the Citadella that stands on the top of the hill. On the way to the hill, you can look down on Pest on the east bank of the Danube. Finally made it to the top of the monument and must confess that I was a bit disappointed by the statue. The view is worth it with the hills of Buda and the Castle District where the Habsburgs and many others reigned. This area still presence of the house of the President of Hungary. It seems to me that these pleasant paths and view of the city was a reward for my exertion climbing the face of the hill. The Statue is a commemoration of the sacrifice to the people who fight for the independence. It is a symbolic rather than impressive statue. To sum up, it is a lovely walk and so many others strolling through the park and jogging up and down the hill. And the descent is gradual but still offer dramatic views of the Citadella. • • • The Statue of Liberty • • • Budapest, Hungary • • •

[trailsofsicily-szlakamisycylii]

Dziś jedziemy na południe. Jesteśmy na szerokości geograficznej Tunezji.

Vendicari (riserva orientata Oasi Faunistica di Vendicari)  – rezerwat przyrody znajdujący się na terenie prowincji Syrakuzy obejmuje obszar 1335 hektarów i rozciąga się wzdłuż wybrzeża przez 8 kilometrów. Na obszar rezerwatu można dostać się przez 5 wejść: Eloro, Marianelli, Calamosche, Torre Vendicari (wejście główne) i Citadella. Każde z tych wejść pozwala nam dotrzeć do unikatowych obszarów, oryginalnych i niepowtarzalnych. Na pewno nie da się zwiedzić rezerwatu w pół dnia. Sądzę, że aby w pełni zrozumieć miejsce takie jak Vendicari, należy zapomnieć o zegarku i wsłuchać się w szum morza. Obserwując unikatową naturę wyobraźcie sobie, jak ten obszar wyglądał kilka wieków temu.

Trudno zrozumieć i docenić pewnych miejsca bez poznania ich historii. Dzieje Vendicari, zresztą tak jak i reszty Sycylii, są bardzo interesujące. W tym tekście zaznaczę tylko najważniejsze fakty, bez zagłębiania się w szczegóły. Na pewno powrócimy jeszcze do Vendicari na Szlakami Sycylii.

Zanim opowiem wam o odległej przeszłości wspomnę tylko, że w latach 70-tych na terenie obecnego rezerwatu chciano zbudować rafinerię ropy naftowej! Tak, rafinerię! Innym pomysłem przełomu lat 70 i 80 tych było osuszenie terenu i konstrukcja olbrzymiego kompleksu turystycznego. Całe szczęście, działacze lokalnych organizacji ekologicznych i naturalistycznych znaleźli siłę i odwagę, by przeciwstawić się industrialnym, politycznym i mafijnym interesom tamtych czasów. W 1984 roku obszar Vendicari stał się oficjalnie rezerwatem przyrody.

Pierwsze ślady obecności człowieka na terenie Vendicari pochodzą z VII – VI w.p.n.e. W północnej części rezerwatu (okolice Eloro) znajdujemy pozostałości po licznych kamieniołomach (wł. latomie), z których kolonizatorzy greccy wydobywali materiał do konstrukcji miasta Eloro. Wyobraźcie sobie przez moment życie niewolników, którzy pod sycylijskim słońcem, za pomocą prymitywnych narzędzi, łupali kamienne ściany, by potem przetransportować wydobyty materiał na teren konstrukcji nowego polis. 

W północnej części rezerwatu znajdujemy także pozostałości po antycznej drodze z czasów greckich – tzw. Via Elorina, łącząca Syrakuzy i Eloro, a potem także inne kolonie greckie, takie jak Kamarina i Gela. Widzimy tu także kolumnę z czasów hellenistycznych zwaną Colonna Pizzuta, upamiętniającą najprawdopodobniej jakieś ważne wydarzenie z okresu dominacji Greków.

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W południowej części rezerwatu obecne są natomiast ślady człowieka z czasów bizantyjskich – strefa archeologiczna Citadella (wejście Citadella). Można tu zobaczyć resztki osady z V -VI w.n.e. Najbardziej znaczącą pozostałością z tej epoki jest kościół zwany Trigona lub Cuba, wyróżniający się swoją charakterystyczną formą (posiada trzy apsydy i dach o kształcie kopuły). Na terenie Citadelli znajdują się też nekropolie: katakumby i resztki grobów wykłótych w skałach.

Szlak Tonnara – Calamosche

Ja zapraszam was dzisiaj do wizyty części rezerwatu, w której znajduje się Tonnara di Vendicari e Torre Sveva (Wieża Szwabska). A jeżeli znajdziecie siły, zaprowadzę was też na rajską plażę Calamosche.

Długość szlaku w jedną stronę to 4 kilometry. 

Dojeżdżamy do głównego wejścia rezerwatu (Torre Vendicari), które znajduje się przy ulicy Contrada Vendicari, Noto, SR. Można dotrzeć tutaj wyłącznie samochodem; nie dojeżdżają tu autobusy. Auto zostawiamy na parkingu lub bezpośrednio na poboczu. Parking jest płatny (ok 2-3 Euro za dzień), wstęp do rezerwatu – darmowy.

Na teren parku nie można wprowadzać żadnych zwierząt, nie można wnosić piłek, rakietek do gry, radio, namiotów i żadnych innych przedmiotów, które mogłyby zakłócać spokój zwierzętom mieszkającym na terenie rezerwatu. Nie jest też możliwy wjazd do parku rowerem.

I bardzo dobrze! W ten sposób chroni się nie tylko lokalną faunę i florę ale eliminuje się też ten typ wizytatorów, którzy z całymi rodzinami rozbijają biwaki, grillują, śmiecą i wydzierają się jakby byli na swojej prywatnej plaży. To niestety typowe zachowanie niektórych Sycylijczyków. Jeśli byliście już na jakiejś zwykłej plaży publicznej na Sycylii, to na pewno wiecie o czym mówię. Tutaj mamy święty spokój.

Pamiętamy, by zabrać ze sobą zapas wody. Na terenie parku nie ma żadnych sklepów, kiosków itp. Latem jest tu na prawdę strasznie gorąco, zimą natomiast dosyć wietrznie.

Na początku szlaku idziemy ubitą drogą wśród eukaliptusów i innych drzew. Po dziesięciu minutach dochodzimy do strefy płytkich bagiennych jeziorek. W tym miejscu, niektórzy są nieco zszokowani zapachem gnijącej wody. Nie ma co owijać w bawełnę – po prostu śmierdzi. Jeziorka te, zwane pantanami (wł. pantano), są płytkie i błotniste a wysokie sycylijskie temperatury sprzyjają dodatkowo procesom rozkładu następującym w ich mętnych wodach. Zbiorniki te mają jednak olbrzymie znaczenie dla lokalnej fauny. Wyobraźcie sobie, że ptaki migrujące z Afryki do Europy właśnie tutaj znajdują pierwsze miejsce, w którym mogą odpocząć po pokonaniu Morza Śródziemnego. Dla niektórych gatunków jest to tylko punkt postoju, dla innych stałe miejsce zamieszkania.

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Pantany są rajem dla amatorów obserwacjii ptaków. Ja nie miałabym cierpliwości, żeby stać godzinami z lornetką i oglądać ptaki, ale przyznam się wam, że w Vendicari nawet ignorant, taki jak ja, ma radochę. Królują tu czarne kormorany, warzęchy, różne gatunki kaczek i czapli, łabędzie, mewy i oczywiście pelikany.

Woda w jeziorach jest wymieszana z wodą morską, co sprzyja rozwojowi wielu gatunków ryb, skorupiaków i mięczaków wodnych oraz roślin i alg, które stanowią pożywienie dla zamieszkujących lub wizytujących pantany ptaków.

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Zbiorniki te od czasów średniowiecza do początków XX w. służyły do hodowli soli morskiej. Ruiny, które widzimy na jeziorze zwanym Pantano Grande, to dom pracowników saliny. Tu też nasuwa mi się chwila refleksji. Jak wyglądało życie ludzi mieszkających w tym domu? Uwięzieni na wysepce otoczonej salinami, pracujący w upałach przy kultywacji soli. Możemy sobie tylko wyobrazić.

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Dochodzimy do punktu, w którym widać morze. Za dunami rozpościera się widok błękitnej wody, lecz tu także czeka na nas nieprzyjemna niespodzianka. Plaża jest pełna wodorostów! I tu też czujemy niemiły zapach. W wodzie, tuż przy samym brzegu, unoszą się ciemne wyspy obumarłych morskich traw. Jak się tu wykąpać?! To prawda, że w tych warunkach kąpiel nie jest zbyt przyjemna, ale musimy wiedzieć, że roślina zalegająca na plaży to Posejdonia oceaniczna (Posidonia oceanica), która ma fundamentalne znaczenie dla ochrony wybrzeża i dun przed falami morskimi. Ponadto, poprzez proces fotosyntezy, dotlenia wodę, sprzyjając rozwojowi niezliczonych gatunków zwierząt i roślin morskich. Jest też wskaźnikiem ekologicznym, ponieważ występuje tylko w czystych wodach. Całe szczęście, niedaleko znajduje się fragment wybrzeża, gdzie posejdonii jest trochę mniej i gdzie da się popływać w przejrzystej wodzie.

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Dochodzimy do miejsca zwanego Tonnara di Vendicari lub Tonnara di Bafutu – fabryka tuńczyka. To tutaj czyszczono i konserwowano tuńczyka czerwonego (Thunnus thynnus), łowionego w tradycyjny sposób (tzw. mattanza) w pobliskich wodach. Do konserwowania ryb używano soli z pobliskich salin. Pierwsze wzmianki historyczne dotyczące tej tonnary pochodzą z XVII wieku.

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Z przerwami była ona aktywna do 1944 roku. Link, który tu umieszczam to link do filmiku obrazującego jak wyglądała kiedyś mattanza. Przenieście się w przeszłość o kilkadziesiąt lat…

Wieża, Torre Sveva, która stoi w pobliżu tonnary najprawdopodobniej została zbudowana na życzenie Fryderyka II Szwabskiego, ówczesnego króla Sycylii (pierwsza połowa XIII w.), a później wielokrotnie rekonstruowana. Budowa wieży miała na celu ochronę przed piratami. W tym miejscu niegdyś znajdował się ważny port handlowy, z którego transportowano zboże i inne towary pochodzące z żyznej Doliny Noto.

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Pomalowany na niebiesko budynek był kiedyś domem pracowników tonnary. Dziś gości niewielkie muzeum, gdzie możemy zobaczyć atrapę sieci rybackich do połowu tuńczyka, narzędzia rybackie i ekspozycję zwierząt zamieszkujących rezerwat.

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Tuż za muzeum znajduje się niewielka plaża, która zazwyczaj jest wolna od posejdonii. Można się tu odświeżyć w przejrzystej wodzie.

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Mijając muzeum i idąc wzdłuż wybrzeża, po kilkudziesięciu metrach napotykamy kamienne zbiorniki wykłute w skale. Zbiorniki te pochodzące z okresu dominacji greckiej najprawdopodobniej służyły do wyrobu garum czyli tradycyjnego sosu ze zgniłych ryb. Gnijące ryby były polewane słoną morską wodą i mieszane drewnianymi kijami. Powstająca w ten sposób pasta była bardzo wartościowa i pożywna; mogła być przechowywana przez długi okres czasu.

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W pobliżu zbiorników na garum woda jest kryształowa. Tu też można się wykąpać. Uważajcie na stopy, ponieważ kamienie są tutaj śliskie i ostre. Lepiej założyć specjalne plastikowe buty do pływania. Wody w tym miejscu są pełne ryb, więc na pewno warto popływać z maską do snorkelingu.

Podążając drogą w kierunku Calamosche napotkacie kolejne jeziorko (Pantano Piccolo) oraz punkt obserwacyjny ptaków. Droga, którą idziecie to dawna Droga Elorina (Via Elorina). Gdzieniegdzie można jeszcze zauważyć  kamienne fragmenty greckich bruków.

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Wzdłuż trasy napotykamy niskie palemki (palma nana – Chamaeropus humilis), które są jedynym gatunkiem palmy naturalnie rosnącym Europie. Mijamy też opuszczoną plantację opuncji. Spod nóg uciekają nam jaszczurki i świerszcze. Żyją tu także węże, takie jak gniewosz plamisty i zaskroniec. Oczywiście niegroźne. Niestety nigdy nie udało mi się zobaczyć żadnego z nich.

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palma nana

opuncja

jałowiec

lentisco

mandragora (bardzo toksyczna)

jaszczurka

Nie ma ani skrawka cienia. Latem nie jest zbyt przyjemnie. Brzeg morza jest wysoki i skalisty i nie da rady zejść tutaj do wody. Po około 20 minutach marszu czeka na nas nagroda. Naszym oczom ukazuje się rajska plaa Calamosche. Jeszcze tylko kilkadziesiąt metrów w dół i możemy zanurzyć się w błękicie sycylijskiej wody.

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  Mapa Vendicari

Jeżeli macie ochotę na wycieczkę z przewodnikiem, dzwońcie śmiało na numer 0039/3284375138 albo piszcie na trailsofsicily@gmail.com lub Szlakami Sycylii na Facebooku.

Możliwy jest wyjazd bezpośrednio z hotelu.

Vendicari – miedzy naturą, historią i rajskimi plażami Dziś jedziemy na południe. Jesteśmy na szerokości geograficznej Tunezji. Vendicari (riserva orientata Oasi Faunistica di Vendicari) 

[metropolisanluis]

Michael Rother se presentará en la Cineteca Alameda

Michael Rother se presentará en la Cineteca Alameda

El Centro Cultural Alemán de San Luis Potosí y Futuro Festival, traen una noche de lujo sónico: música con historia que suena a futuro. MICHAEL ROTHER, fundador de NEU! y Harmonia, se presentará en vivo acompañado del baterísta Hans Lampe, con quien grabó el alucinante e influyente álbum NEU! '75, y del guitarrista Franz Bargmann, quien ha formado parte de los explosivos Camera, parte de la nueva ola motorik de Alemania. El desierto, para quien pone atención, devela un sinfín de tesoros: es su amplitud y serenidad la que hace resaltar el exotismo de sus secretos. Quien se aventura a recorrerlo durante el día puede encontrar, con suficiente suerte, un oasis, y de noche, el esplendor absoluto de un cielo estrellado. Así, Futuro Festival, celebrado en las desérticas tierras de San Luis Potosí, busca ser el epicentro cultural de la zona Norte-Centro de México, con un programa que de día abre un oasis de intercambio de conocimiento para los nichos creativos potosinos y que de noche, muestra una constelación de música contemporánea que empuja los géneros del presente hacia nuevas dimensiones: hacia el futuro. Como abrebocas hacia la segunda edición que se celebrará el 24 de marzo de 2018, Futuro Festival, con el apoyo y colaboración del Centro Cultural Alemán de San Luis Potosí, Goethe Institut Mexiko, y Ciudad Maderas, nos trae una serie de conciertos previos, comenzando con un imprescindible de la vanguardia sonora global: MICHAEL ROTHER. La cita es este próximo viernes 27 de octubre a las 20:00 Hrs. en Room Park de Plaza Citadella, San Luis Potosí. Para muchos fans, músicos y críticos, Michael Rother es una figura clave en la innovadora escena musical procedente de la Alemania de principios de los 70. Pionero del motorik (sonido que se popularizó bajo el término ‘Krautrock’), su música ha sido fuente de inspiración para generaciones de músicos, desde David Bowie (con el que en su día rechazó colaborar), Brian Eno (con el que sí colaboró), Iggy Pop o DEVO, hasta Oasis, Sonic Youth, Stereolab, Autechre y Radiohead, entre muchos otros. En la actualidad la banda que acompaña a Michael Rother está formada por el guitarrista Franz Bargmann, ex-miembro del grupo berlinés Camera y Hans Lampe, el batería que tocó en el álbum NEU! '75 y miembro de La Düsseldorf junto al difunto Klaus Dinger. La visita de Michael Rother a San Luis Potosí forma parte de una gira nacional que contempla conciertos en Guadalajara, Ciudad de México, Monterrey y Guanajuato. Para formar parte de este viaje sonoro, sólo necesitas registrarte en Boletia e ingresar tus datos completos; asiste al concierto con una ID oficial: tu nombre estará en la lista de acceso. El aforo es de cupo limitado, sugerimos llegar mínimo 20 minutos antes. Recibirás un boleto en PDF, esto es el comprobante de que ya estás en la lista, pero no es necesario imprimirlo. Michael Rother en San Luis Potosí es realidad gracias al apoyo de: Centro Cultural Alemán de San Luis Potosí, Goethe Institut Mexiko, Ciudad Maderas, y Futuro Festival. -