#cavy genetics

[roseate-felidae]

Yep.

It's also called temperature based albinism. It exists on the c gene.

It famously removes/dilutes yellow pigment. It causes the eumelanin to be less concentrated making it appear to be a colour called Seal.

It's in rabbits, guinea pigs, mice, gerbils, hamsters, and sheep, too. Recently, in 2017, it has been discovered in dogs.

Strangely, they all have red eyes due to lack of pigment, but the cat version has blue eyes (with missing tapetum lucidium, too).

My rabbit, Jasmine has it. She's a pointed white Netherland Dwarf.

It has recently appeared in dogs. It is has been documented in more dogs since 2017. This is Matysek, the colour point dachshund from "color point dog" on Facebook. Not much is known about it in dogs.

Himalayan mouse photo from the National mouse club website.

Himalayan cavy from British cavy council website.

Siamese Gerbil photo from American gerbil society website.

Hampshire sheep photo from Wikipedia

These animals have the distinct limb, face, ear and tail (not cavy) points as the pointed cat.

But what happens when the limbs and face is too short/close to the body that it doesn't get much colder than the main body tempreture?

This is exactly what happens in Syrian hamsters. The only area to get cold enough for pigment is the ears on the hamster.

It is called the Dark Eared White in Syrian Hamsters. Photo from Ontario hamster club's instagram. My first pet was a dark eared white long-haired Syrian sow called Misty.

Even though these mutations all appear in these animals. The effectiveness of how well they remove Phaeomelanin (yellow pigment) varies. This is really easy to see when you combine genes that remove eumelanin with the himalayan gene.

The yellow gene in sheep is unpopular, and not much is known about the colour point gene in dogs. So I will not to go into the removal of yellow pigment in those two.

In Rabbits, the himalayan gene removes almost all yellow. Sometimes there is slight yellowing but that is a fault. But the non extension gene, orange does not remove all eumelanin pigment. This is why when non extension is combined with himalayan in rabbits it fades the points.

Screenshot of Non extension pointed netherland dwarf from Rabbittalk

In Mongolian gerbils, guinea pigs, and fancy mice, they remove all the yellow pigment. Since the pink eyed mutation in gerbils, the cinnamon mutation in hamsters, and the red mutation in guinea pigs removes all eumelanin (black pigment), when they are paired with the colour point gene it creates pink eyed whites (flesh eared white in hamster). Fun fact: we haven't discovered true albinism in guinea pigs, hamsters, or gerbils yet, all red eyed whites are genetically their version of red himalayans.

Red eyed white cavy from Ontario cavy club website. Ps. That tag is just stuck on not peirced.

In cats, the c gene is not effective at removing much yellow pigment. So it dilutes it. You get flame point this way.

Flame point Siamese from THE RED POINT & TORTIE POINT SIAMESE CAT CLUB website.

*edit:

Added corrections that were mentioned to me by @amber-tortoiseshell

● Corrected the Frosty point to a himalayan non extension

● Changed wording of changes black into to seal to changes concentration of eumelanin to appear like the colour called Seal.

● More dogs have been discovered with points since the last two.

Tiredness causes mistakes, i am always happy to amend my posts if you spot a mistake.*

[tetedurfarm]

What’s a dream animal you realistically could never own but you want so bad

if i was going to be the kind of person who owns non-reptile exotic animals i would have genets

i love genets so much. they are one of my favourite animals and they are apparently not terrible pets (for exotics) but ethical issues aside my life is just not one where i have the time space or spoons for a catweasel

i have the pelt of one though and it's the closest i'm sure i'll get

[sparrowminder]

What's up with my guinea pig?

Reaching out to guinea pig tumblr because I've just realized how weird Curie is and I'd like to see if anyone knows why she looks like this or could put me in touch with someone who knows more!

This is Curie. I have absolutely no idea where she came from. She was surrendered to the local shelter at around one year old with her pal/sister Frankie, so she was most likely originally a pet store pig.

The weird part is her fur! I have four other rescue pigs, and they all appear to be standard American pig in fur type. Curie is not a longhair, but her hair is noticeably longer than the others, especially noticeable with her the fur behind her ears, and much softer. It does not have the sheen of a satin, if anything I'd say it's duller than average. When all the pigs went to the vet recently she got comments on this, multiple vets at that office keep guinea pigs and they've never seen one like her!

On my other pigs, their black fur is very thick and shiny, and it's pure black all the way down to the root. On other animals, I would call this "extreme nonagouti", but it seems to be standard for solid pigs.

Here's Cori as an example. She's a black-and-tan. If her fur looks a bit lighter there, it's just because it's so reflective! It is really the same black all the way down, other than an odd gray hair.

Meanwhile, Curie's hair is definitely paler towards the roots. Again, I would find this amount of variation pretty standard for nonagouti in other animals, but with all my other nonagouti pigs being completely solid in color and no reported difference in extreme vs standard nonagouti, this seems odd.

She's much too old now to breed (and I wouldn't anyway, with her unknown origins, even if I were prepared to breed guinea pigs), so my only hope for finding out what's up is seeing if anyone else has had similar looking pigs. If they have, maybe I can improve the documentation on guinea pig genetics!

[the-art-block]

I love the idea of colour mutations!!! It's one of my special interests. I used to breed budgies for the genetics (until my asthma said no) and have learned the every rabbit and budgie colour genetic! My two rabbits are a Pointed white Nethie doe (Jasmine) and yellow dutch doe (Amber). aa BB c(ch) c(ch) DD EE and A- BB CC D- ee dudu respectively. My fav colours are Lutino (birds, buns, reptiles etc), black otter (buns), blue merle (dogs), vitiligo and Tortie and white (cavy, cat, hamster, fish)

Yessss I have a friend who breeds rats and I will fully admit to feeling inspired by his talk about coat-pattern goals and all the different variations the little darlings can come out in! You have excellent taste in animal colors, those are all so beautiful 😍

[thepipsqueakery]

Look at this unreasonably cute baby rat! I'm ded of the cute. He looks like a tiny needle felted doll! Alright, now on to some not great news. We are at the point where The Pipsqueakery is shutting down all intakes (except a select few situations listed below). We are out of space, out of time, and our budget is currently stretched very thin. We have taken in over 250 animals in the last 2 weeks from very urgent situations (two situations that would have already doubled in numbers if we had not done a ton of emergency spays, and one situation at our other location) and it has stretched our resources to the breaking point. So, unless your surrender falls into one of the following situations your request will be indefinitely waitlisted: ❤ The animal is at a shelter we work with and in need of medical attention ❤ The animal is an unusual species that should not be rehomed to the general public including, patagonian cavies, capybaras, captive bred flying squirrels, groundhogs, prairie dogs, etc ❤ The animal is owned or found by an individual and in need of serious medical care. This is really only going to include things like broken limbs, paralysis, splays, serious genetic issues, dental disease, and other similarly serious ailments ❤ Returns. Animals adopted from us will always have a place here and must be returned to us Any other situations will need to seek out another rescue or contact your local shelter as we are just not able to accommodate anyone else at this point. If you want to help please consider donating or applying to adopt one of our many rats, guinea pigs, hamsters, and rabbits looking for a new home. If you would like to apply to adopt check out thepipsqueakery.org/adoption If you would like to donate there are lots of ways to donate including: ❤ Venmo: @ThePipsqueakery ❤ CashApp: $ThePipsqueakery ❤ Paypal: Paypal.me/thepipsqueakery ❤ Facebook: www.facebook.com/thepipsqueakery and use the donate button ❤ Patreon: patreon.com/thepipsqueakery ❤Amazon Wishlist: http://a.co/fEKocKc ❤ Chewy Wishlist: https://www.chewy.com/g/the-pipsqueakery-inc_b69832307 Thanks so much for your support through this difficult time. #rat #rescue https://www.instagram.com/p/CUDNpiZLB28/?utm_medium=tumblr

[petcarecorner]

Satin Guinea Pigs (And Why You Shouldn’t Buy Them) 

When you set out to learn about cavies it doesn’t take long for satin guinea pigs to pop up in your research, and with good reason! These hollow-haired absolutely stunning coat that shines and appears to have a glassy coating. This beauty, however, comes with a steep price. 

Though satin guinea pigs aren’t a breed per se, several recognized guinea pig breeds (abyssinians, americans, peruvians, teddies and silkies)  can present the satin gene. This recessive gene is linked to something known as satin guinea pig syndrome, an incurable genetic disease that can cause these animals extreme pain. SGPS or Fibrous Osteodystrophy is a metabolic bone disease that is characteristic of satin guinea pigs (and only satin guinea pigs). 

Under normal circumstances, PTH (parathyroid hormone) is secreted as a response to low calcium levels. In order to raise calcium levels back to normal, it increases bone resorption (a process by which calcium is taken from the bones to raise levels in the blood stream). Usually this mechanism is balanced out by the action of the hormone Calcitonin which promotes the storage of calcium in the bones by reabsorbing calcium in the kidneys. 

For piggies with SGPS, however, the reabsorption of calcium in the kidneys is highly inefficient. This chronic and significant calcium deficiency leads to an overactive bone resorption which causes bones to decalcify (osteoporosis) and form fibrous tissue to replace the boney matrix (osteitis fibrosa). This chronic degenerative disease is often diagnosed in young guinea pigs who go on to lead short, painful lives. 

The skeletons of cavies with SGPS often present dental and skeletal deformities, kidney issues, hyperphosphatemia and hypocalcemia. Their weakened skeleton is highly susceptible to fractures. As the disease progresses walking will become progressively more difficult until it becomes impossible all together. 

Breeding satin guinea pigs is a risky endeavor. Pregnant sows with the condition require extra calcium to produce milk and form fetal skeletons. This increased calcium requirement only works to accelerate the rate at which bone resorption occurs. This cause hypocalcemia, a disease expressed through seizures, paralysis and death. Even if the sow successfully carries her pregnancy and gives birth, milk production is equally taxing in terms of calcium requirement and presents the same risks as pregnancy. Because of this, mortality rates for sows with SGPS during or shortly after pregnancy are very high. As for the the babies, low calcium content in their mother’s milk will lead to hypocalcemia in them as well. Because of this they are often smaller than others of their kind. 

SGPS currently has no cure. Though some owners choose to administer supplemental calcium, there is no evidence that this helps prevent or cure SGPS. Vitamin D3 plays a significant role in the reabsorption of calcium in the kidneys, because of this it’s beneficial to provide guinea pigs with SGPS with a UVB bulb to help prevent D3 deficiency and help delay the advancements of this disease. The best thing you can do for a piggy with this condition, however, is just to help manage their pain. Regular x-rays and vet visits will be necessary to check on the spread of the disease but once the bones are completely decalcified the only humane option is to put them down. 

So please, do not buy satin guinea pigs. Be it from a breeder or a pet store you encourage the breeding of sick animals. I would only ever recommend getting a satin guinea pig if you’re adopting one from your local rescue, but always keep in mind that you’re signing up to get attached to an animal with a tragically short and painful existence. 

[lovemychinchilla]

What's The Average Chinchilla Lifespan?

Chinchillas have a reputation for being delicate and dying easily. But owners will tell you they can live for an awfully long time. So, what's the truth—how long do chinchillas live?

How long do chinchillas live as pets? The average lifespan of a chinchilla is 10-20 years. The oldest chinchilla ever lived to 29 years and 229 days. This is longer than almost any other rodent, and is remarkably long for such a small animal. You can help your chinchilla live longer by feeding it the right diet, taking it for vet checkups, and ensuring its needs are met. The wild chinchilla lifespan is shorter at only ten years.

This is something you need to be prepared for if you want a pet chinchilla. With good care, you could have your friend by your side for much of your life! Our guide below explains why a chinchilla has such a long lifespan, and how to care for your pet to make it live longer.

How Long Do Pet Chinchillas Live?

The pet chinchilla's average lifespan is a matter of debate. Scientific sources give different average lengths, although it seems that somewhere between 10-20 years is average if you care for your pet properly. So, for example, this paper states:

Another cavy-like rodent, the Chinchilla (Chinchilla lanigera), has a longer lifespan. The documented record for a chinchilla is 17 years, but chinchilla breeders claim that some of their pets have lived over 20 years. The chinchilla is similar in size and ecology to the guinea pig, but lives in barren regions at higher elevations, and may have fewer predators in the wild.

But other sources disagree. This one says:

Additionally, the chinchilla's docile nature and long lifespan (∼10 years in the wild; up to 15–20 years domesticated) make it suitable for short- or long-term studies.

So, what's the truth? How long does a chinchilla livein captivity? Experienced owners will tell you that a happy and healthy pet chinchilla should live for longer than 10 years, and perhaps up to 20. This is why we advise potential new owners to think very carefully before they adopt a chinchilla. Can you afford to have a pet for this long? And will you want it for that long?

Why Did My Chinchilla Die So Young?

Not all chinchillas that die young are neglected, but all chinchillas that are neglected will die young.

Sometimes chinchillas have underlying genetic issues, or pass away in unfortunate accidents. This can be no fault of the owner. Even if you follow every care guide and tip, your pet could still die sooner than it should.

That being said, many owners do neglect their pets. Neglect comes in many forms: keeping a chinchilla in a cage that's too small, forgetting to give it pellets or refresh its hay, not giving it anything to do, and not giving it company or spending time with it are the most common. Stress, loneliness and poor diet can all contribute to an early passing. But if your chinchilla got to 10 years old, that's a good age for it to have reached.

If you aren't sure why your chinchilla passed away, ask a vet about a 'necropsy'. This is like an autopsy for pets. The vet will perform exploratory surgery to find whatever was wrong with your chinchilla's health. Discovering the problem can help you care for your remaining pets or future pets better, so we advise having one done if possible.

If you were looking after a chinchilla kit and it passed away, it may not have been your fault. Sometimes animals simply fail to thrive and will pass away before they are mature. This is the sad side of caring for baby chinchillas, and it's something you have to be prepared for if you want to breed chinchillas.

Why Do Chinchillas Live So Long?

Lifespan is normally related to the size of the animal: the bigger, the longer it will live. But chinchillas clearly break this rule as they're the same size, under all that fur, as animals that have a lifespan ten times shorter.

There are many other factors associated with age. Researchers at the University of Liverpool found that there's a protein produced in the body which fights aging; in some animals, this protein can be changed over the course of a lifetime to combat aging in ways that we don't fully understand. Meanwhile, other scientists point to the idea that total energy expenditure over a lifetime is related to longevity.

Generally speaking, animals that develop more slowly also have longer lifespans. This definitely applies to chinchillas: they develop in the womb for 110-111 days, and reach full maturity at around a year to a year and a half. This is much slower development than other animals of comparable size.

The truth is that we don't know exactly why some animals live longer than others. There seem to be all sorts of factors at play in a big, tangled web that doesn't make much sense. You'll know the moment we figure it out because the person who discovers the truth will probably patent it, and become the richest person on the planet!

Chinchilla Maximum Lifespan

The oldest chinchilla ever according to Guinness World Records was named Radar. He was owned by a German lady named Christina Anthony. Radar lived to an incredible 29 years and 229 days old. He was born on February 1st, 1985, and died on September 18th 2014. He moved with Christina to America in 2002.

It's unlikely that your pet will live as long as this. 20 years is the upper limit that most owners find. But with good care, it's possible!

What Rodent Has The Longest Lifespan?

The naked molerat is officially the longest-lived rodent in the world. These come from Africa, and the oldest ever recorded lived to be 32 years old. That's only a few years older than the chinchilla, meaning that the chinchilla's record is nothing to be sniffed at. For comparison, common rodents' maximum lifespans are:

Guinea pig: 14 years and 10 months

Mouse: 4 and a half years

Rat: 3 years or so

Squirrel: 15 years or so

So, in context, chinchillas can live to exceptionally old age.

How Long Do Wild Chinchillas Live?

Wild chinchillas don't survive for as long as their pet cousins. The generally accepted wild chinchilla lifespan is about 10 years. That's shorter than a pet chinchilla's lifespan because their diet is more variable; sometimes certain foods are available, and sometimes they aren't (depending on the season). And sometimes, there won't be as much food as there should be.

Predators are, of course, another issue. Chinchillas are a prey animal, and there are lots of predators that attack them. According to the San Diego Zoo, chinchillas can be predated on by owls and hawks from the air, or foxes and cougars on the ground. They do have some defense: they use their exceptional hearing to sense predators before they get too close. As they live in herds, when one chinchilla hears something, it will start barking and alerting the rest in the group. They all then run for cover.

There are also environmental factors to consider. While it only rarely rains, it does occasionally do so where chinchillas live, which makes life difficult for them; they can't get their fur wet or it gets moldy and matted. Fleas and worms are also common in wild chinchilla populations.

Long-Tailed Chinchilla Lifespan vs. Short-Tailed Chinchilla Lifespan

Image courtesy of Wikimedia.

The long tailed chinchilla is the kind that people have domesticated. It has a longer tail with sparser fur and a smaller body. If you look at it from above, its neck and shoulders are pinched in.

The short tailed chinchilla is rarer than the long tailed chinchilla in the wild. That's because they have thicker fur, so they were targeted by trappers. They also have blocks bodies and shoulders, so look more square from above. They also have smaller ears.

The lifespan of each species is roughly the same at ten years or so. Truth be told, scientists can't easily study either species because they're both endangered. Again, predators and environmental factors shorten their lifespan from its maximum length. But 10 years in the face of all of this is still highly impressive, and other rodents don't last anywhere near as long.

How to Make Your Chinchilla Live Longer

If you love chinchillas like we do, you'll want your pet to live longer. The best way to achieve that is to follow the basic care guidelines below. These won't cost you lots of money or take up lots of your time, and all experienced owners follow them.

Attention & Care

There is no substitute for good care, and no hacks and shortcuts you should take with your pet's health. Chinchillas have key needs that have to be accounted for, like food and water, space, interaction and vet care. You can't skimp on these things. If you do, your pet won't live as long.

Attentive time with your chinchilla is also important. This means giving your chinchilla the occasional check-up by picking it up and looking it over. You're looking for any sign of ill health, such as matted or damp fur, parasites, overgrown teeth, eye or mouth infections and so on. You should also check your chinchilla's cage to see that it's peeing, pooping and eating as it should be. While chinchillas like to keep it a secret if they're hurt or sick, it's better to check than to not check.

If you do catch a developing problem, you will get a head-start in treating it. A neglectful owner doesn't bother, and any condition that could have easily been treated early (like malocclusion) would instead become life threatening.

Correct Chinchilla Diet

Perhaps the most common mistake that owners make is feeding an incorrect chinchilla diet. Your pet's diet must reflect what chinchillas eat in the wild, which is mostly grass of various types. As such, pet chinchillas should eat almost nothing but hay and hay pellets. You may think they need more variety than that, but that's not true.

Another mistake is that people feed their chinchillas fruits or vegetables. These are unsuitable because they contain lots of water and lots of sugar. Chinchillas should have a diet that's very high in fiber with next to no sugar, so even 'healthy' fruit sugars are bad. The water can cause diarrhea, and the sugars will eventually cause weight gain.

The tough fibers in hay also may help keep a chinchilla's teeth from overgrowing. Owners are split as to whether they do, but the logic behind the idea makes sense. So, if you don't feed your chinchilla hay, it could affect its dental health too.

Frequent Vet Checkups

On top of checking your pet yourself, you should take it for frequent vet checkups. An experienced owner can spot a lot of things, but there's no substitute for a vet's eye. If possible, you should find a vet that exclusively treats exotic pets, as these vets will be more used to chinchillas than regular vets. Plus, there are lots of conditions a chinchilla can experience which need antibiotics or surgery, in which case you'll need to take them anyway.

Even though this represents a frequent expense, you will save money in the long run. That's because checkups are cheap ($30-50) while surgery is expensive (high three figure, or four figure sums). If this is too much of an expense, consider insurance, or perhaps a cheaper pet that doesn't need vet care.

Do Chinchillas Die Easily?

There are lots of ways a chinchilla can get sick or hurt itself. They aren't robust creatures; their rib cages and skeletons generally are flimsy and easy to break. They only look big because they have so much fur. This means they're vulnerable to physical trauma, so this is something you must remain aware of.

But as for health issues they can catch or develop, chinchillas aren't any more delicate than other rodents. With good care your chinchilla should stay happy and healthy for many years to come.

Below, you can find our chinchilla quiz, new posts for further reading, and a signup for our Chinchilla Newsletter!

#chinchillas #chinchillafaqs

[rpgsandbox]

Book Cover, now for 5e

::WARNING:: Please know that we re-used the video from the original Anthro-Adventures for Pathfinder Kickstarter. The only differences in this campaign are that this is for a 5E conversion, and the book is complete. Hopefully it doesn't confuse anyone!

Anthro-Adventures, a popular RPG setting in which the Seven Realms of Layna are ruled by animal-human hybrid races, is now available for your 5E campaigns!

A unique setting, Anthro-Adventures is two designed to fill two goals:

1. To create a setting that a child can seamlessly play in, while having a natural understanding of the nuances of their character's race.

2. To provide an Anthro-Fantasy setting where the conflicts of the animal-human hybrids are the central focus. This allows players to recreate the tone of popular stories such as Redwall, Mistmantle, and others.

Anthro-Adventures accomplishes these goals by creating a setting where each race is created as a sociological experiment in a modern day human genetics lab. As part of the hybrid's development their education is focused around a single piece of Children's Lit chosen to instill desired traits in their newfound species. When a horrid accident sends the hybrids hurtling through time and space the only thing they have to rely on as they continue to develop on their own is those ancient stories once read to them.

Fast forward a thousand years and those hybrid races have flourished, using the tales they were once read as a basis for society. For example the Dog-kin have a powerful medieval theocracy based around dedication to the teachings of the Big Red God (they were read Clifford), Lion-kin prowl the land looking to exterminate evil in the name of the Great Mane (Aslan), and Rat-kin take science to dangerous levels in their Steam-powered cities (They were read Mrs. Frisby and The Rats of Nihm).

The Anthro-Adventures World Guide is 142 pages long and consists of the following:

Detailed background on the creation of the Seven Realms, including maps.

Background on each of the Seven Realms, including information on their Geography, Economy, Military, and Society.

Background and information on 22 playable hybrid races, including stats, racial feats, spells, and equipment.

75 pieces of original artwork showing the visual nuances of each hybrid culture.

A simple, easy to use layout for family friendly gaming.

The 5e version of Anthro-Adventures is about 90% converted and will be available for download within two weeks of the end of this campaign. Physical copies will be delivered after a proofing process, which generally takes 3-4 weeks. Delivery will be direct from DrivethruRPG.com.

Just seeing Anthro-Adventures for the first time and hoping you can still get the Pathfinder edition? Feel free to head on over to DrivethruRPG and pick it up!

An overview of the Seven Kingdoms of Layna:  

The Alliance of Woodland Creatures: Made up primarily of nomadic forest dwellers and protectors of nature, the races of the woodland alliance hold many of Layna’s oldest secrets, and they’re not willing to share. (raccoon, Hedgehog, Rabbit)  

Aviana: An isolationist nation off the southwestern coast, the birds of Aviana hold a great distrust for “walkers”, particularly those who wield firearms. They often attack unseen from the clouds and disappear again before enemies can respond. (Owl, Falcon, Swan)  

Empire of Rodentia: Led by the inventive Guinea Pigs and experiment obsessed Rats, Rodentia boasts the most technology in Layna. They also endure the most accidents, something that keeps their rapidly growing population and advanced urban centers from taking over the world. (Rat, Guinea Pig, Mouse)

Ruminant Republic: The banking and trade center of Layna, The Ruminants and their allies enjoy unheard of prosperity. Unfortunately this wealth doesn’t always extend to everyone. While the royalty sits inside exquisite palaces, some of their starving people grow angry. (Goat, Cow, Wallaby)

The Feline Federation: A desert and savanna dwelling nation, the Cats, masters of the arcane arts, and the Lions, masters of axe to the face, are in a constant state of conflict over who is more destined to lead. This is the only thing that keeps them from taking over the rest of the world. (Cat, Lion, Leopard)

The Canine Kingdom: Content to sit behind their enormous stone walls and preach the word of the Big Red God, the Canines have never lost a battle on their own soil in their thousand year history. Supported by the Wolves’ Alpha squads, The Dog’s unmatched resilience, and the Foxes’ dedication to knowledge, the Canines are Layna’s immovable object. (Dog, Wolf, Fox)

The Herptile Hegemony is a nation of swamp barbarians dedicated to the pursuit of glory and military victories. They do this to honor their ancestors and their imaginary friends. (Bullfrog, Poison Dart Frog, Turtle)

Map of Layna

Cat-kin Sword Dancer

Fox-kin Bard

Brightskin Shaman of Death

Mouse-kin Bard

Lizard-kin Hunter

Dog-kin Paladin

Rat-kin Alchemist

Cavy-kin Spellslinger

Sample hardcover from the completed Pathfinder version

Kickstarter campaign ends: Mon, January 15 2018 3:58 AM UTC +00:00

Website: [TJ Lantz] [facebook]

[crazycavylady]

In this post I am going to talk about the basics of this anything-but-basic animal.

TLDR; Guinea pigs are exotic animals with lots of breeds. Don’t breed or buy Satin pigs they have serious health problems, reacue them if you can afford the time and money for their specialized care.

Guinea pig; domestic guinea pig; cavy; a pig by any other name would still smell like timothy hay. Male pigs are known as boars; females as sows; babies are referred to as pups, breaking from the porcine trend. Cavies are large rodents that originate from the Andes of South America and were originally domesticated as livestock.. for food.. and continue to be so in various South American countries. This blog, moving forward, will only cover guinea pigs as pets.

Pups are born about 3-4” in length and grow continuously until full maturity is reached around 14 months. An adult guinea pig can be anywhere from 8-12” in length and 1.5-2.6 lbs. Boars and sows must be separated as soon as 3 weeks after birth, guinea pigs reach sexual maturity very early and baby boars *will* impregnate Mom, sisters, and any sow that walks his little way. Sows have a limited time frame in which to safely reproduce; too young can cause complications, but around 10 months guinea pig pelvic bones start to fuse requiring a c-section for any chance of safe delivery for sow and pups.

There are 13 breeds of guinea pigs in various colorations that are recognized by the American Cavy Breeders Association (ACBA) among several unrecognized breeds. For the love of guinea pigs, the CavyCrazyLady does not recognize the ‘satin’ versions of any breeds (explained at the end of this post). I will cover specifics of breeds and colorations in a later post, including both recognized breeds and a few that are not:

Okay. The reason that I do not recognize satin breeds is because it is cruel to intentionally breed pigs to obtain this ‘desirable’ coat. I am not a veternarian, but ‘Satin Guinea Pig Syndrome’ is a quick google away for anyone with internet. Satin coats are suspected to be a product of a genetic disorder. Most satin pigs live short, pain-filled lives often with bone and kidney diseases. Satin pigs are found to suffer from hyperparathyroidism and hormonal imbalances, fibrous osteodystropy, hypercalcemia, malocculusion, and lameness.

[mad-hare]

@learninghoovess Mainly my Belgian hares in regards to this, but I also had a short stint as a cavy breeder before COVID isolation ruined my teeny herd.

@bushido-jack It’s not really people on tumblr I’m not sure there’s many rabbit breeders on here. It’s more just the community at large. Many Belgian hares are riddled with a likely genetic disease that makes them have to be put down at 2-3 years old, this is well known, but no other breeder other than @bonefarm​ is even willing to have any sort of conversation about this. I posted a eulogy to my last hare that passed away in a large breeder’s group on Facebook and several breeders comment on how sad it is that they have to die young.

Other than this, the only time people even acknowledge the disease in these rabbits is when a distraught pet owner comes into our group every few years looking for advice that their young rabbit has a mystery illness happening that has their vets confused. I have sold very few hares as pets but I have always been very clear in the fact that their pet may get this illness and there’s not much that can be done about it and make sure they are aware of this before they decide they really want one, I don’t think anyone else does this when they sell pets.

And now that my own dog has died and I know more about dogs and I start to look at potential breeders it’s just so hard to trust. I don’t know how I’m supposed to ask a breeder about history of DCM in their dobermans (because from what I’ve read the genetic test alone isn’t an entirely solid predictor). But I guess I probably don’t want another doberman in particular, idk it’s just so much research and then a gamble at the end anyways.

I’ll be honest there’s nothing like having been an animal breeder for a decade that has made me so suspicious of every other animal breeder to maybe an unrealistic level

[mad-hare]

So the five freedoms of animal welfare are well known and great but I'm thinking we need additional freedoms for show animal breeders. A few "we can all agree" examples as well as a "grasping" example that people may not agree as much. I think it's fun and great to want to produce a beautiful animal but, I think in this day and age the animals we produce should be able to freely live comfortable, not shortened, lives. Open for any other ideas people have, tried to include lots of species.

1- Freedom from bred physical deformities: animals bred for fancy must not have physical deformities that impede quality or quantity of life. This includes skeletal and muscular deformities which disable animals from living and moving freely. example: pug dog, American fantail pigeon, Polish chicken (grasping example: giant dog breed with shortened lifespan, albino animals with reduced vision).

Freedom from known genetic deformities: fancy animals must be bred with the goal of avoiding traits connected to genetic deformities which shorten or impede quality of life. As well as tracked genetic diseases in species where you can do genetic screening. example: scottish fold cat, satin coated cavy, double merle dogs, feather duster budgie.

Freedom from human-caused mechanical harm. Fancy animals must not be manipulated in painful or unnatural ways in order to increase desirable qualities for the purpose of showing. Examples: big lick Tennessee walking horse, animal whisker trimming, feather plucking birds. (Grasping example: extreme long coated animals where mobility can be compromised).

[innspubnet]

Genetic diversity and population structure of cavy (Cavia porcellus L) in three agro ecological zones of Côte d'Ivoire - IJAAR

Genetic diversity and population structure of cavy (Cavia porcellus L) in three agro ecological zones of Côte d’Ivoire – IJAAR

Parfait Kouadio Kouakou, Rob Skilton, Djikeng Apollinaire, Fantodji Agathe, Gourene Beatrice, Aoussi Serges Clément

Université Peleforo Gon Coulibaly de Korhogo, Institut de Gestion Agropastorale, Département de zootechnie, 01 bp 1328, Côte d’Ivoire

Biosciences eastern and central Africa laboratory, International Livestock Research Institute Hub, 30709 Naivasha Road,Nairobi, Kenya

Université…

[wemdashikurfan-blog]

Genetic diversity and population structure of cavy (Cavia porcellus L) in three agro ecological zones of Côte d’Ivoire – IJAAR

See on Scoop.it - IJAAR-INNSPUB

Parfait Kouadio Kouakou, Rob Skilton, Djikeng Apollinaire, Fantodji Agathe, Gourene Beatrice, Aoussi Serges Clément Université Peleforo Gon Coulibaly de Korhogo, Institut de Gestion Agropastorale, Département de zootechnie, 01 bp 1328, Côte d’Ivoire Biosciences eastern and central Africa laboratory, International Livestock Research Institute Hub, 30709 Naivasha Road,Nairobi, Kenya Université Nangui Abrogoua, UFR des Sciences de la…

[ourbreathingplanet]

Mara

The Mara represents a small genus within the cavy family. Currently, we know of only two separate species of Mara still existing. These we named the Chacoan and the Patagonian maras. Genetically, they also appear to be relatives of the much smaller guinea pig. They remain endemic to several regions of South America. They also appear […]

The post Mara appeared first on Our Breathing Planet.

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[lovemychinchilla]

What's The Average Chinchilla Lifespan?

Chinchillas have a reputation for being delicate and dying easily. But owners will tell you they can live for an awfully long time. So, what's the truth—how long do chinchillas live?

How long do chinchillas live as pets? The average lifespan of a chinchilla is 10-20 years. The oldest chinchilla ever lived to 29 years and 229 days. This is longer than almost any other rodent, and is remarkably long for such a small animal. You can help your chinchilla live longer by feeding it the right diet, taking it for vet checkups, and ensuring its needs are met. The wild chinchilla lifespan is shorter at only ten years.

This is something you need to be prepared for if you want a pet chinchilla. With good care, you could have your friend by your side for much of your life! Our guide below explains why a chinchilla has such a long lifespan, and how to care for your pet to make it live longer.

How Long Do Pet Chinchillas Live?

The pet chinchilla's average lifespan is a matter of debate. Scientific sources give different average lengths, although it seems that somewhere between 10-20 years is average if you care for your pet properly. So, for example, this paper states:

Another cavy-like rodent, the Chinchilla (Chinchilla lanigera), has a longer lifespan. The documented record for a chinchilla is 17 years, but chinchilla breeders claim that some of their pets have lived over 20 years. The chinchilla is similar in size and ecology to the guinea pig, but lives in barren regions at higher elevations, and may have fewer predators in the wild.

But other sources disagree. This one says:

Additionally, the chinchilla's docile nature and long lifespan (∼10 years in the wild; up to 15–20 years domesticated) make it suitable for short- or long-term studies.

So, what's the truth? How long does a chinchilla livein captivity? Experienced owners will tell you that a happy and healthy pet chinchilla should live for longer than 10 years, and perhaps up to 20. This is why we advise potential new owners to think very carefully before they adopt a chinchilla. Can you afford to have a pet for this long? And will you want it for that long?

Why Did My Chinchilla Die So Young?

Not all chinchillas that die young are neglected, but all chinchillas that are neglected will die young.

Sometimes chinchillas have underlying genetic issues, or pass away in unfortunate accidents. This can be no fault of the owner. Even if you follow every care guide and tip, your pet could still die sooner than it should.

That being said, many owners do neglect their pets. Neglect comes in many forms: keeping a chinchilla in a cage that's too small, forgetting to give it pellets or refresh its hay, not giving it anything to do, and not giving it company or spending time with it are the most common. Stress, loneliness and poor diet can all contribute to an early passing. But if your chinchilla got to 10 years old, that's a good age for it to have reached.

If you aren't sure why your chinchilla passed away, ask a vet about a 'necropsy'. This is like an autopsy for pets. The vet will perform exploratory surgery to find whatever was wrong with your chinchilla's health. Discovering the problem can help you care for your remaining pets or future pets better, so we advise having one done if possible.

If you were looking after a chinchilla kit and it passed away, it may not have been your fault. Sometimes animals simply fail to thrive and will pass away before they are mature. This is the sad side of caring for baby chinchillas, and it's something you have to be prepared for if you want to breed chinchillas.

Why Do Chinchillas Live So Long?

Lifespan is normally related to the size of the animal: the bigger, the longer it will live. But chinchillas clearly break this rule as they're the same size, under all that fur, as animals that have a lifespan ten times shorter.

There are many other factors associated with age. Researchers at the University of Liverpool found that there's a protein produced in the body which fights aging; in some animals, this protein can be changed over the course of a lifetime to combat aging in ways that we don't fully understand. Meanwhile, other scientists point to the idea that total energy expenditure over a lifetime is related to longevity.

Generally speaking, animals that develop more slowly also have longer lifespans. This definitely applies to chinchillas: they develop in the womb for 110-111 days, and reach full maturity at around a year to a year and a half. This is much slower development than other animals of comparable size.

The truth is that we don't know exactly why some animals live longer than others. There seem to be all sorts of factors at play in a big, tangled web that doesn't make much sense. You'll know the moment we figure it out because the person who discovers the truth will probably patent it, and become the richest person on the planet!

Chinchilla Maximum Lifespan

The oldest chinchilla ever according to Guinness World Records was named Radar. He was owned by a German lady named Christina Anthony. Radar lived to an incredible 29 years and 229 days old. He was born on February 1st, 1985, and died on September 18th 2014. He moved with Christina to America in 2002.

It's unlikely that your pet will live as long as this. 20 years is the upper limit that most owners find. But with good care, it's possible!

What Rodent Has The Longest Lifespan?

The naked molerat is officially the longest-lived rodent in the world. These come from Africa, and the oldest ever recorded lived to be 32 years old. That's only a few years older than the chinchilla, meaning that the chinchilla's record is nothing to be sniffed at. For comparison, common rodents' maximum lifespans are:

Guinea pig: 14 years and 10 months

Mouse: 4 and a half years

Rat: 3 years or so

Squirrel: 15 years or so

So, in context, chinchillas can live to exceptionally old age.

How Long Do Wild Chinchillas Live?

Wild chinchillas don't survive for as long as their pet cousins. The generally accepted wild chinchilla lifespan is about 10 years. That's shorter than a pet chinchilla's lifespan because their diet is more variable; sometimes certain foods are available, and sometimes they aren't (depending on the season). And sometimes, there won't be as much food as there should be.

Predators are, of course, another issue. Chinchillas are a prey animal, and there are lots of predators that attack them. According to the San Diego Zoo, chinchillas can be predated on by owls and hawks from the air, or foxes and cougars on the ground. They do have some defense: they use their exceptional hearing to sense predators before they get too close. As they live in herds, when one chinchilla hears something, it will start barking and alerting the rest in the group. They all then run for cover.

There are also environmental factors to consider. While it only rarely rains, it does occasionally do so where chinchillas live, which makes life difficult for them; they can't get their fur wet or it gets moldy and matted. Fleas and worms are also common in wild chinchilla populations.

Long-Tailed Chinchilla Lifespan vs. Short-Tailed Chinchilla Lifespan

Image courtesy of Wikimedia.

The long tailed chinchilla is the kind that people have domesticated. It has a longer tail with sparser fur and a smaller body. If you look at it from above, its neck and shoulders are pinched in.

The short tailed chinchilla is rarer than the long tailed chinchilla in the wild. That's because they have thicker fur, so they were targeted by trappers. They also have blocks bodies and shoulders, so look more square from above. They also have smaller ears.

The lifespan of each species is roughly the same at ten years or so. Truth be told, scientists can't easily study either species because they're both endangered. Again, predators and environmental factors shorten their lifespan from its maximum length. But 10 years in the face of all of this is still highly impressive, and other rodents don't last anywhere near as long.

How to Make Your Chinchilla Live Longer

If you love chinchillas like we do, you'll want your pet to live longer. The best way to achieve that is to follow the basic care guidelines below. These won't cost you lots of money or take up lots of your time, and all experienced owners follow them.

Attention & Care

There is no substitute for good care, and no hacks and shortcuts you should take with your pet's health. Chinchillas have key needs that have to be accounted for, like food and water, space, interaction and vet care. You can't skimp on these things. If you do, your pet won't live as long.

Attentive time with your chinchilla is also important. This means giving your chinchilla the occasional check-up by picking it up and looking it over. You're looking for any sign of ill health, such as matted or damp fur, parasites, overgrown teeth, eye or mouth infections and so on. You should also check your chinchilla's cage to see that it's peeing, pooping and eating as it should be. While chinchillas like to keep it a secret if they're hurt or sick, it's better to check than to not check.

If you do catch a developing problem, you will get a head-start in treating it. A neglectful owner doesn't bother, and any condition that could have easily been treated early (like malocclusion) would instead become life threatening.

Correct Chinchilla Diet

Perhaps the most common mistake that owners make is feeding an incorrect chinchilla diet. Your pet's diet must reflect what chinchillas eat in the wild, which is mostly grass of various types. As such, pet chinchillas should eat almost nothing but hay and hay pellets. You may think they need more variety than that, but that's not true.

Another mistake is that people feed their chinchillas fruits or vegetables. These are unsuitable because they contain lots of water and lots of sugar. Chinchillas should have a diet that's very high in fiber with next to no sugar, so even 'healthy' fruit sugars are bad. The water can cause diarrhea, and the sugars will eventually cause weight gain.

The tough fibers in hay also may help keep a chinchilla's teeth from overgrowing. Owners are split as to whether they do, but the logic behind the idea makes sense. So, if you don't feed your chinchilla hay, it could affect its dental health too.

Frequent Vet Checkups

On top of checking your pet yourself, you should take it for frequent vet checkups. An experienced owner can spot a lot of things, but there's no substitute for a vet's eye. If possible, you should find a vet that exclusively treats exotic pets, as these vets will be more used to chinchillas than regular vets. Plus, there are lots of conditions a chinchilla can experience which need antibiotics or surgery, in which case you'll need to take them anyway.

Even though this represents a frequent expense, you will save money in the long run. That's because checkups are cheap ($30-50) while surgery is expensive (high three figure, or four figure sums). If this is too much of an expense, consider insurance, or perhaps a cheaper pet that doesn't need vet care.

Do Chinchillas Die Easily?

There are lots of ways a chinchilla can get sick or hurt itself. They aren't robust creatures; their rib cages and skeletons generally are flimsy and easy to break. They only look big because they have so much fur. This means they're vulnerable to physical trauma, so this is something you must remain aware of.

But as for health issues they can catch or develop, chinchillas aren't any more delicate than other rodents. With good care your chinchilla should stay happy and healthy for many years to come.

Below, you can find our chinchilla quiz, new posts for further reading, and a signup for our Chinchilla Newsletter!

[ays_quiz id='9']

#chinchillas #chinchillafaqs

[baaahumbug]

What this Vet is saying is 100% true and if you disagree with them, then you're being selfish and cruel to your animals.

They have consistently stated that they do not blame those who cannot afford a $1000 surgery, they are talking about those who go and get a cute little kitten and then don't vaccinate, or desex because "it's too expensive"

DO NOT get an animal if you cannot provide the basic veterinary care it needs. If you really can't afford basic vaccines and desexing, either don't get that animal, or look at getting a rescue animal which is already fully vaccinated and desexed.

I am not rich by any means. I don't work, my mother doesn't work. I get youth allowance as I'm currently a university student, and my mother gets disability care for myself as she's my full time carer. Sometimes we struggle to pay the bills. We have a LOT of pets. But you know what, every single fucking time they have needed care, without a single doubt we have taken them straight to a vet and spent that money.

My dog was recently baited and it cost $1000 to save her, am I blaming the 'overpriced' vet? No I blame the sick fuck who baited her. We had the money this time, we always pull the money together. There is almost always a way to pull the money together. If that means going a couple of days on ration food, or selling some of your stuff, you do that. You commited to this pet, you made a promise to look after them, so you make sure you LOOK AFTER THEM!

I can also promise you that there is NEVER an animal that 'has never needed to go to the vet.' I admit, sometimes I cut corners and don't take animals for minor injuries. My vets are often fine with this, they trust me to make these decisions as I'm pretty well versed in animal health. Even then, my reptile Vet let's me call her for minor issues and if it's not serious, will give me advice over the phone.

Vets are here to help us, explain your situation and ask for advice and a lot of the time, they will give it to you or try to help however they can. The only reason they're so 'expensive' is because:

(1) they need revenue to continue operating

(2) there is no government subsidy on animal medication like there is with people. Those eye drops which you're complaining about because "you could've bought people ones for 5 bucks" are $20 bucks instead because the vet has to buy them at $15 whereas the chemist only has to buy the same 'human equivalent' product at 50 Cents. This is not the vets fault.

(3) doctors charge for their time just like vets. My specialist geneticist appointments cost roughly $300 per visit, and I get most of that back from Medicare as I have a lifelong condition. Vets don't get Medicare support. Vets don't get to Bulk Bill patients (government pays doctors some money for treating you. They still don't make the full amount though). Even considering all of that, they generally only charge 70-100 for a consult. That's pretty good compared to my $500 Rheumatology appointments.

Let's not forget that vets (in my opinion at least) are more skilled than the typical doctor. They're basically all those specialists in one. Genetics, Neurology, Immunology, Reproductive anatomy, Anatomy, Cardiology, Rheumatology, Nutritionalist, Dietician, Physiotherapist, Rehab-specialist, Behavioural knowledge and the list just goes ON! Not to mention most vets have to know this for a number of animals. Doctors know ONE animal! ONE! That's us!!! How easy is that, one set of anatomy to learn. Vets often know SEVERAL animals! My exotic vet treats; Rodents (rats/mice), Cavies (Guinea pig), snakes, lizards, fish, amphibians, birds, poultry/fowl, and wildlife such as possums and bats. You know what that means? She has to know specific information about all of those animals systems as every single one I mentioned above differs significantly from the others. Even a snake and lizard are COMPLETELY different. That's skilled.

Stop treating vets like they're the bad guys when they're just people trying to do the right thing by our animals. No Vet is rich. Vets don't become vets to "make money by overcharging us for basic treatments", they become vets because they have an honest desire to save animals lives. Want to become rich? Create a new drug to sell to the vet industry, because they're the ones that make shitloads.

To sum my incredibly angry and sick of this bullshit rant up, don't get an animal if you can't afford the most basic of care it needs. So that means, if you can't afford this:

Cats: regular kitty litter, decent quality dry food (not the $5 for a massive bag full of fillers which make the cat sick), vaccines, desexing, a scratching post (yes they absolutely need this), and some basic toys (yes cats NEED toys). Then don't get a cat

Dog: decent quality dry food, vaccines, desexing, toys, a bed. Then don't get a dog.

Rodent: appropriate sized cage (no excuses. You have to get them at LEAST the recommended minimum sized cage), regular quality feed, toys, regular substrate changes, and a FRIEND (YOU NEED TWO!!!). Then don't get a rodent.

Fish: appropriate sized tank (no excuses. I'm looking at you Betta owners. And no a bowl isn't appropriate), regular feed, water conditioning equipment, heaters and filters (as required. Not all need these), enough hides and furniture so they feel safe. Then don't get a fish.

Birds: regular quality feed, appropriate sized cage, safe toys (no rope toys please [unless it's guaranteed safe]), and whatever else a bird needs? I'm sorry I'm not well versed aside from Chooks. Then don't get a bird.

Reptiles: Heat lights, UVB lights, appropriate sized tank, hides and furnishings, regular substrate changes, quality feed (they cost a LOT to feed!!! So unless you can afford $10 on insects/rodents a week, don't get one), regulator, thermostat, temperature gauges/guns. Then don't get a reptile.

Now this isn't a 'callout' post at anybody, nor am I targeting those with little money. I'm just trying to raise awareness that hey, maybe stop treating vets like shit because, they're not the bad guys??? There seems to be a big misconception that animal ownership is a right or a given, and it is absolutely not. Pets are a privilege and it's not your right to own one if you can't afford to look after it.

A lot of people in shitty situations depend on them for emotional support (I know I do!) and I'm not saying "if you're poor you're not allowed to own a support animal" because you absolutely are!!! What I'm trying to say is, there are alternatives. If you're in such a bad spot you really need an animal to get through it, if you can't afford to feed that animal most days, what happens when something bad happens? If that animal goes you go. I've been there. I depended on my Beardie, Kilgharrah, so much, that had my family not been depending on me to support them, I would've ended it with her, I'd be with her now. If you can't afford to look after an animal as much as you need it, don't get it as if something bad happens and you can't afford to save them, it'll ruin you.

The alternatives are never as good obviously, but here are a few little ones if you can't afford your own pet.

1) look after wildlife. Go down to the duckpond and feed them scraps, name them, watch them and see if you can tell them apart! I currently have 7 different possums that come into my yard at night and they make me so happy! I can tell the difference between all of them and have built a little bond up with two (a mumma and her baby). I leave them a couple slices of fruit every night (never give them enough to make them dependent or domesticate them, just a treat) and it's so rewarding to watch them and get to see their personalities. I almost cried the other night because she vanished for 5 days and I thought she must have eaten the bait my dog ate, (she came back don't worry!) that's how attached I've gotten to just random wildlife!

2) friends pets can also be amazing little guys to get to know. If you have a mate you see regularly, spent a bit of time with their animal each time you're there. I'm sure your friend won't mind!

3) volunteer at a shelter if you can. It's so rewarding.

4) try and find employment as a dog walker/housesitter. It's not ideal but you still get to hang out with cute animals!

As I mentioned, all of these options are subpar I know, but animals are a big responsibility and you have to ENSURE you can give them the best life you can.

Didn't realise how long this got, apologies for that. I'm just very passionate about this topic and I'm sick and tired of vets, some of the most caring and compassionate people you will EVER meet, copping constant abuse. And yes, it is abuse.

Can't afford the vet, can't afford the pet.

When we in the veterinary industry defiantly cry “If you can’t afford the vet then you can’t afford the pet,” please try to understand what we’re talking about.

We’re not talking about people that have a pet for years, fall on hard times and can’t find the $3000 it needs for surgery or intensive care. Life happens. Goodness knows most of us don’t have that kind of money lying around either.

We’re talking about people who spend $1000’s on a new puppy… But can’t afford vaccines, desexing or heartworm preventative.

We’re talking about people who ‘rescue’ an animal but fail to provide it with basic care.

Or ‘rescues’ that aren’t treating the issues of animals they acquire, especially if they delay treatment to beg for donations online.

And the people that haven’t wanted to spend money on preventative care for their senior pet for the last three years because “she’s old and will die soon.”

Or the ones that spend hundreds of dollars on doggy fashion accessories but accuse you of price gouging on antibiotics.

Who can’t borrow $50 from all the people they know, but want a payment plan from you. And a discount because they ‘rescued’ it as a puppy.

For whom $20 of take home pain relief is ‘just too much’.

Who keep acquiring more and more animals with problems that need extensive treatment that they can’t pay for.

Look, we don’t want to see anything suffer and will help out when we can, and try to tailor things to your budget…

But if you can’t afford BASIC veterinary care, then you cannot afford the pet. Don’t get it.