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knitweare Production factory
S2M Knitwear Maker Our website: https://sweater-manufacturer.com E-mail: [email protected]
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sweater factory,children's clothing manufacturer
YS-SWEATER MANUFACTURING https://sweatermanufacturing.com
Email:[email protected]
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cardigans strass private label
YS knitting sweater production factory https://customknitfactory.com
email: [email protected]
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Alpaca -villapaitavalmistajat
sweater maker https://sweaterchina.net
Email: [email protected]
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Stay Ahead in Style: Trends and Tips for Corporate Wear in Australia
In the ever-evolving world of fashion, staying ahead of the curve is essential, even in the realm of corporate wear. Dressing professionally and stylishly not only boosts your confidence but also leaves a lasting impression on clients, colleagues, and business partners.
This article will guide you through the latest trends and provide valuable tips on how to navigate the world of corporate wear in Australia, ensuring that you stay ahead in style.
1. Embrace Modern Minimalism:
Clean lines, tailored silhouettes, and minimalist designs are at the forefront of corporate wear trends in Australia. Opt for well-fitted suits, dresses, and separates that exude sophistication and simplicity. Classic colors like black, navy, and gray are timeless choices, while incorporating subtle pops of color or patterns can add a contemporary touch. Remember, less is more when it comes to modern minimalism.
2. Experiment with Texture and Fabric:
To elevate your corporate attire, pay attention to the textures and fabrics you choose. Embrace luxurious materials like silk, cashmere, or fine wool to add a touch of elegance to your ensemble. Consider incorporating textured pieces, such as tweed blazers or knit sweaters, to add depth and interest to your outfit. Mixing different textures and fabrics can create a visually appealing and dynamic look.
3. Play with Patterns and Prints:
While the corporate environment often leans towards conservative dressing, there is room to infuse personality through patterns and prints. Subtle pinstripes, checks, or houndstooth patterns can add a touch of sophistication to your suits or blouses. For a bolder statement, explore tasteful floral prints or geometric patterns. Just remember to balance patterns with solid neutrals to maintain a professional and polished appearance.
4. Accessorize with Finesse:
Accessories play a significant role in completing your corporate look. Invest in high-quality accessories that exude elegance and refinement. A sleek leather briefcase or structured handbag adds a sophisticated touch while being functional. Pay attention to your choice of shoes, opting for polished, comfortable footwear that complements your outfit. Don't forget to add a statement watch, understated jewelry, or a tasteful scarf to enhance your overall style.
5. Personalize within Boundaries:
While expressing your personal style is encouraged, it's essential to respect the dress code and cultural norms of your workplace. Many companies have specific guidelines for corporate wear, such as color palettes, dress lengths, or specific attire for client meetings. Within these boundaries, find ways to infuse your personality. Whether it's through subtle details like a unique tie, a statement accessory, or a signature piece of jewelry, personalization can set you apart while maintaining professionalism.
Final Thoughts:
In the dynamic world of corporate wear, staying ahead in style is a key to success. By embracing modern minimalism, experimenting with texture and fabric, playing with patterns and prints, accessorizing with finesse, and personalizing within boundaries, you can create a fashionable and professional wardrobe that leaves a lasting impression.
Remember to adapt these trends to your workplace's dress code and culture, striking the perfect balance between contemporary style and corporate professionalism. Stay ahead in style and let your fashion-forward approach make a statement in the business world.
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BASTARDIZATION
by Réginald-Jérôme de Mans
Today’s topic has everything to do with bastards, illegitimate marriages of heretical ideas that could make #menswear purists blanche. As with much of what’s viewed as heresy or blasphemy against classic menswear, the garment pictured springs forth from the 1960s, both directly and indirectly. Bastardization, of course, is all about that indirectness, that genealogical “collateral” line. And yet mutts are sometimes the most beautiful and intelligent of animals… at least to this beholder.
I came to my #menswear cropper through a love for 1960s vividness, even recognizing that its Technicolor thrills were largely phenomena confined to a privileged middle and upper class. Still, the cinematic glories of Terence Stamp, Michael Caine, David Hemmings and others made an impression on my suburban adolescent self, as did David Bailey’s photographs. And, of course, Connery’s Bond. Today James Bond is trapped in a postmodern funhouse mirror of reboots and reimaginings, licensed more to retail brand names than to kill. The more stylish heir to Connery’s infamously politically incorrect Bond is the gloriously profane cartoon hero Sterling Archer, he who coined the portmanteau word “tactleneck”, the tactical turtleneck in the deepest black and the finest materials that accompanies him on all his most sensitive missions. In a review of Archer’s and Bond’s shirtmaker Turnbull & Asser, I noted that T&A are missing out on what could be a fruitful collaboration with Archer, being as they are the inventors of another glorious bastard turtleneck from my 1960s period of inspiration.
Warren Beatty and Hemmings, who famously sported searingly striped shirts (another T&A staple) as a fashion photographer in Blow-Up, modelled it, but it was Lord (not Edward) Snowdon who made this design most famous when he was turned away from a soirée in New York City for wearing it: a tuxedo shirt made out of silk with a turtleneck collar without any space for a bow tie. The design was bizarre but awesome: the simplicity of a turtleneck meant no studs, cummerbund or waistcoat, or the aforementioned bow tie. To my mind it’s aged rather better than the ruffled front tux shirt George Lazenby sports in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service.
According to my pal @voxsartoria, this shirt’s design was the brainchild of T&A’s creative cutter at the time, Robert Clark, who had come up with other bizarrely inventive models, such as the Clarney, a hunting shirt with a cravat in the same cloth as the shirt built in. There’s no word on whether he also designed a shirt called the Charney, after Dov of ill fame, that would sexually harass the wearer.
I hate tying a bow tie, even if thanks to Bruce Boyer’s latest book I now know that it more or less ties like a shoelace, so I wanted to have my own tactleneck, my tactical response for dealing with black tie that cuts through the fuss and bulk of putting on a dress set and a cummerbund, among other things. But bringing back an inspiration had its issues – as Jurassic Park suggested, every resuscitation results in some genetic variation. For one, T&A only offered it as a bespoke model and never came out with a ready-to-wear version, even though T&A’s currently doing all sorts of archive editions of famous designs, so it’s a design only available custom. However, as with other items of bespoke gimmickry, apparent simplicity hid significant artifice. In order not to show its closure, the T&A version buttoned up the back, something impossible to do on my own in my valet-free class and age.
No, additional bastardization was called for. I had my own shirtmaker create a new pattern for a turtleneck-collared shirt that buttoned up the side, keeping the closure out of sight but far easier to do up, rather like the buttoning on old fencing jackets (they use Velcro now). That inspiration also came from a 1960s T&A design, in this case the side-buttoning Cossack-style shirts that they popularized after having made models for Omar Sharif to wear in Doctor Zhivago (Omar was a loyal fellow who continued to patronize T&A for decades thereafter). The collar still has to button around the back, but that can be done on my own with a lot of swearing.
In true bastard fashion I did not go back to the source, to the Churchill Room at Turnbull & Asser to have this shirt made. New customers at most English shirtmakers are required to place a minimum order of three or six shirts, and I don’t have any call for that. I instead tested one of my current shirtmakers’ skills in asking him to create a completely new pattern for an odd shirt design. Among other things I knew I could trust him to fit a test shirt on me before making the actual shirt up, something the British don’t do.
A more practical query would be why I didn’t just use a knitted turtleneck in cashmere or cotton, since those stretch and don’t need to be cut and fitted. Even at their finest, however, knits can still add more bulk under a sportcoat than a woven cloth, and they just don’t have the sheen of silk. Nor do knits usually have French cuffs for cufflinks. (For some reasons, the original T&A design had button cuffs despite being made for black tie; I changed that.) Good silk for making shirts is rather hard to find; even though 50 years ago it seems to have been the material of choice for better business shirts and formal wear shirts, to judge by mentions in those Bond novels that helped launch Connery. Nonetheless, silk is far more delicate and difficult to clean than, and generally doesn’t breathe nearly as well as, cotton. There are wonderful cottons available now that have some of silk’s luster and fineness, but in homage to my inspirations I too wanted this shirt in silk. I know that the cloth house David & John Anderson has a book of silks called “Jade” (their finer cotton books are named after diamonds and emeralds, so “Jade” is obviously a bow to China where silk weaving first originated). That book might as well exist in name only, as it was impossible to obtain, but DJA’s sister company Thomas Mason had a fine ivory silk twill that we made this up in.
The result, an obvious bastardization of black tie – tieless, waistcoatless, sashless. It looked and felt exactly as I had intended – different and yet somehow elegant in its own way, at least in my own mind – the offwhite ivory color less severe than a pure white would have been, the silk’s sheen and softness elegantly replacing conventional collar and bowtie. A tactile tactic better, in my own admittedly biased view, than the dark necktie or other inglorious bastardizations that pass for creative black tie nowadays.
Quality content, like quality clothing, ages well. This article first appeared on the No Man blog in 2018.
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Black Navy Print Cashmere Leopard Scarf In Blue
This offer isn't relevant to purchases being shipped internationally. Take your fashion to the wild aspect with this leopard print Autograph scarf. Crafted from ultra-soft and opulent cashmere. Please email us on to advise us you are returning the garment and if you'll like a refund or exchange for one more garment https://strandfirm.com/product/cashmere-leopard-scarf/.
My new scarf was beautiful over simple black pants and prime, seemed very glamour.
We will organize a return postage label so the merchandise could be returned to us when in a position. We will ship you an e mail as quickly as we obtain the returned garment and purpose to course of your return inside 2 enterprise days of receipt. All items returned should be in the identical situation during which they had been acquired.
Scarves are uniquely hand woven and hand printed making every bit tremendous luxurious and tremendous gentle. Embrace fine and opulent layers with this pure cashmere leopard scarf from hush. With a sizeable size and width, this scarf is roofed in a catchy leopard print that is related and on-point season after season. I ordered this online and was really disappointed when I opened the parcel. For virtually £70 I was anticipating a luxury merchandise - nevertheless it fell well short.
We have never met a Leopard print we didn’t love !! And we are huge fans of this lovely deep cobalt blue color. This cashmere scarf was created to put on all winter lengthy with leather jackets and good blazer fits to offer you a luxury look. Update your 2018 accent assortment with the hanging colors of our new scarf. Created from the best cashmere and silk and that includes our classic leopard print, unique to Leatham Cashmere, this scarf will smarten any outfit. All 100 percent cashmere, our scarves, hats and socks are loving made by hand within the tiny kingdom of Nepal.
If you have already got items in your basket, please note that they wiil be shipped to the country you will choose. Please also note that the shipping rates for lots of items we sell are weight-based. The weight of any such item can be discovered on its element web page. To reflect the policies of the shipping corporations we use, all weights shall be rounded as much as the following full pound.
Please note that lots of our merchandise are individually crafted by skilled artisans. Slight variations are a pure results of this process and add to the distinctive magnificence and persona of every piece. Our Leopard Scarves are hand-woven and hand-printed in Nepal. The weavers "dress" the loom in a width that's higher than the finished size, and make it longer, too. The resulting fabric is then felted by hand, which involves washing and mild agitation to aid within the interlocking of the very fine cashmere fibers.
All clothes are checked by us earlier than preparing your order for packing. In the unlikely event that the garment is faulty on arrival, incorrect or broken in transit, please notify us immediately on receipt of goods. We will arrange for the merchandise to be returned to us. If we're unable to provide you with a replacement, we will refund your cost of the merchandise. This is a 100% cashmere fine-woven scarf, however it is massive sufficient to also make a comfortable wrap. The background is the pure white color of the cashmere goat hair, with pale camel and black spots screen printed on the individual items.
We won't accept returns of used, dirty, or broken merchandise. We have the best to deny a credit if the merchandise returned doesn't meet our return policy necessities. To return an alpinecashmere.com item, email to acquire a return authorization quantity and pay as you go return label.
This wrap is noted as one hundred pc cashmere, however the weave and thread rely is similar to that of a burlap bag. To calculate the general star rating and proportion breakdown by star, we don’t use a easy average. Instead, our system considers things like how current a review is and if the reviewer purchased the merchandise on Amazon. It additionally analyses critiques to verify trustworthiness.
Modifying the language doesn't modify the chosen country and currency. 3) The color perhaps slightly difference compare the picture with actual merchandise as a outcome of monitor replicate. Sign as a lot as our newsletter and be the primary to hear the most recent offers, occasions, information and updates from Wolf & Badger.
The leopard print is just on one facet of the fabric and the quality of the cashmere wasn’t as anticipated. Machine wash your 100% cashmere scarf underneath the wool setting with temperature set as cold, and spin it at 500 rpm. You can also hand wash your cashmere scarf in chilly water. Handwoven cashmere scarves printed by hand with striking leopard prints in all the richest trend colours imaginable. Asneh's leopard scarf is a recent tackle a timeless classic. It’s crafted from the softest cashmere, expertly woven and screen printed by hand.
The delivery provide is mechanically applied at checkout when standard transport is chosen and the threshold is reached in a single transaction. Orders arrive inside three to four enterprise days if orders are positioned by three PM ET . Orders containing fragrances, rugs, or lighting and orders higher than 30 units are not eligible for quick delivery. Regular expenses will apply to all other transport strategies. Amounts donated to the Pink Pony Fund don't count towards the brink quantity.
1) Selecting high quality cashmere materials, keeps you heat all day lengthy. Please observe we're unable to supply a value match for merchandise sold through impartial retailers, or being shipped internationally. Every time you put on or wash your cashmere, it'll reward you by changing into somewhat softer. Please be assured that these cookies don't retailer any personal knowledge.
This course of provides bulk, softness and loft to the completed scarf. Pashmina is the traditional name for the very finest grade of cashmere wool. Ralph Lauren presents packaging designed to reduce waste. To receive your order with Reduced Packaging, choose the verify box on the Shipping web page during checkout. Register to obtain exclusive offers tailored to you, plus rewards and promotions earlier than anyone else. Just choose ‘YES’ throughout step three on the subsequent web page and by no means miss a thing.
In the case of an exchange, if the garment is in inventory we'll dispatch it inside 2 enterprise days of receiving the returned garment. If we do not have it in stock, but will probably be arriving into inventory shortly, we'll notify you and you'll determine whether or not you want to wait or obtain a refund. If there's a distinction in price between the returned garment and the garment you wish to change for, we are going to contact you to organise fee. Your personal data might be used to assist your experience all through this web site, to manage access to your account, and for different purposes described in our privacy coverage.
This is a timeless accent that will elevate any outfit and keep you toasty through the colder months. You might return your purchase for a full credit, so long as the product is returned in the identical situation because it was despatched. Altered products can't be returned for refunds or change.
They additionally improve the functionality and personalization of our website, such as using movies. Receive by Thursday, May 27, when you order by 3 PM ET and select Fast transport at checkout. Scarfe exactly as described and superbly packaged. This company clearly cares very a lot about who they're and their buyer's experience. I think I will get a lot of use of the wrap this winter.
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Personalized items and reward packing containers can't be returned. I bought this scarf on-line after a lot of deliberation contemplating hearty value. The service I acquired in local M&S meals corridor on choose up left me very upset. I had obtained notification my parcel was prepared for choose up. Staff arguing with me in retailer in front of orher clients made me feel very uncomfortable. The scarf is so gentle and warm, it is a pleasure to put on - which I have already got.
Please notice, we can not provide pay as you go return labels for international returns. Customers are answerable for the delivery for all returns coming from outside the United States. Luxurious handcrafted cashmere knits and hand woven scarves from Nepal. Designed in England for a up to date wardrobe. A Lily and Lionel signature, the leopard print has been shrunk to a micro scale this season for an summary, polka dot design, on a caramel-toned backdrop. Printed on one hundred pc cashmere, finished with an eyelash hem.
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We do not compromise; looking gorgeous and feeling good are mutually imperative for us. Woven in Italy from a lustrous cashmere-and-silk mix, this elegant scarf showcases a traditional leopard print. Meticulously completed with hand-rolled edges, its elongated silhouette makes for a highly versatile accent. Free Fast Shipping on Orders $150+ & Free Returns |Details Enjoy free quick delivery on orders of $150 or more and free returns at RalphLauren.com only.
In caramel tones, our monster leopard scarf is a worthwhile cold climate funding piece. In this classic color way, it'll work with all of your present wardrobe and can look good draped casually spherical your neck. Enjoy free returns and exchanges within 30 days of the order shipment date.
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Wear it with a jacket for or layer it with a sweater and coat in cold weather. We recommend teaming it with our Fallon beret and fingerless gloves. A luxurious scarf in basic leopard print and crafted using Grade A cashmere.
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Killer Queen
Summary: A mysterious killer walks anonimously on the streets of London. A young woman and a young man meet at the restaurant.
“Caviar and cigarettes
Well versed in etiquette
Extraordinarly nice
She’s a Killer Queen”
Word count: 3,5k
Warnings: mentions of death
The last beams of sunlight hit the white wooden bedside table through the half-open curtains, revealing an elegant dark-brown revolver and a pair of burgundy velvet gloves. The room remains silent for a few solid minutes before something shifts in the background- the bathroom door creaked open, echoing in the empty apartment. Barely-heard footsteps approach the light-gray wardrobe, as well as an unknown female silhouette. Long and thin fingers linger over the silky fabric of the pale-blue jumpsuite, then move on to the woolen knitted beige sweater and the cashmere mini-skirt. These could have made a great clothing choice the other day, but today, she needs to shine in the limelight; today, each and every eye must watch and admire her.
Her gaze falls upon a cocktail silk wine dress with golden embroideries alongside the shoulder line. She gently takes it out of the grand wardrobe and carefully places it on top of the bed as she wanders her eyes upon it: delicate, yet sensual off-shoulder collar, narrow middle that would clearly bring out her slim figure and a flamboyant fluffy skirt that goes just bellow the ankle. "Perfect!" she thinks. The woman then proceeds to the right corner of the room- she keeps her Moet and Chandon in her pretty cabinet. She takes out a tiny bottle and pours herself a little champagne in the glass, just to calm down her nerves a bit and to set the mood for the following evening. The champagne bubbles tickle her tongue, then her throat, until a calming heat envelopes her chest. "What a feeling", she barely whispers, "to drink from a vintage bottle of Moet... Why can't they serve it in each and every restaurant? Ah, screw them all!" she adds as she puts the glass down on the cabinet and then says, haughtily:" Let them eat cake!", just like Mary Antoinette.
* * * * *
The old horologe strikes seven times, announcing the departure time for our mistress, as little "clicks" of a pair of onyx high-heels echo in the large hotel hall, lightened only by the orange streetlight. Luckily for the young lady, the hall is suspiciously empty for such an early hour, for it usually would have been crowded with new guests, chit-chatting all the way round. Soon, the elevator takes the woman downstairs, where awaits her another „prey", as she likes to call her clients.
The lobby was, in contrast to the floor hall, packed to the fullest with different sorts of people, creating a light noise: clerks, bussinessmen, simple voyageurs and old but rich gentlemen and ladies, everyone seems to be extremely focused and to have an extremely important thing to talk about with the hotel staff. However, as soon as she appears in the doorway, a white fur coat on her shoulders, the noise muffles and each eye focuses in her direction, devouring her each gracious movement. Of course everybody knew her and what she was doing, and yet some things still remained unknown to the public eye. In the local press, she was commonly recalled as a „built-in remedy for Khrushchev and Kennedy"; her "exquisite and specific" way to solve things has always been thrilling the audience, but something was stopping the journalists to intrude in her personal life, something only a handful of people knew, but were never going to talk about.
This evening, she was expecting a special "guest". She has been told, by the company she has been working for, to expect, at any time of the week, an invitation she couldn't decline, from a well-known wealthy young man. A table for two had been set in the farthest corner of the luxurious restaurant, creating a quite intimate atmosphere to chat: the candle-light was coloring the surroundings with a warm reddish light, as the table was enclosed by thin silky curtains, secluding it from the rest of the restaurant.
* * * * * *
The young man had arrived, as he should, a few minutes earlier than our precious lady. As a matter of good service, he has been served with an aperitif consisting of black caviar tartelettes and, upon his wish, a packet of one of the most expensive cigarettes. As he blew the smoke through his half-open lips, he was peering at the hotel guests, wondering about yet another of his illegal affairs- the perks of being the head of an extremely dangerous Yakuza syndicate. He was breathing dollars while golden coins were running through his veins right to his little black-haired head. He carefully ran his fingers across the pocket knife case he was carrying in one of his jacket's pockets; just in case, he always thought. He tried to hide as much as possible his true identity, and yet he liked to be precautious.
This was his first time ever travelling to London, so he decided to have a day off his dangerous and complicated duties, preferring to spend it as he would love to. That included spending a night with a rather outrageous and beautiful woman. As from what his closest friends have claimed to know, this was the hotel where a mysterious and extremely good-looking young lady chose to stay at from time to time. They said he would recognize her immediately, so he didn't ask for further explanation. It was a bit strange of him not to do a full research about the person he was about to meet; this time, he felt like it was of no use. He just wanted to relax, once in a while. What could a charming young lady do to him? How could she possibly harm him?
* * * * * * *
10 minutes later than the client, that was the no.1 rule for her. No matter what, she had to wait for 10 minutes before making contact with her customer. She'd stopped by the bar and ordered a glass of champagne and while sipping it, she had been revising the fastidious plan she'd got in her head. Standard procedures, for about half-an-hour, a brief moment of relaxation and then...
Suddenly, she spotted him in the furthest corner of the restaurant, half-hidden by the silk curtains. She didn't mistake him for somebody else, it was clearly the person she'd been told about. It seemed he noticed her too. Slowly, she climbed off the bar stool, picked her golden sparkling clutch and made her way to the unknown man. The clock on the wall was showing 19:20.
As she approached him, she took in his features: he must have been in his mid-thirties, considerably wealthy and even a bit handsome. When he firstly spoke to her, she was slightly taken aback by him being so well versed in etiquette: he kissed her hand, then he offered her a seat at the table, not forgetting to constantly compliment her about her astonishing (if that wasn't true) appearance tonight. However stunned she might have seemed, she managed to exquisitely return the favor, behaving extraordinarily nice towards the young man. She asked him questions about himself, about his job, about what he was pursuing during his short visit in London, which was just a time-killer technique. Soon, they were sharing a bottle of mid-18th century red wine, showing apparent signs of mutual attraction towards each other while chit-chatting about every possible subject.
* * * * * *
"I've been told that this beautiful town is home to a terrific and mysterious killer who loves torturing his victims in some "specific" ways. Is it true, kitten?" asked the man with hints of suspicion in his dark black eyes. The young lady looked him straight into the eyes and replied with a cocky smile on her lips:
" Well, she's a Killer Queen indeed! All gunpowder and gelatine, some still wonder if she uses dynamite with a laser beam to kill her victims..." she added half-joking while sipping her wine.
"It is a she, then?" he smiled. "I definitely wouldn't have thought that a town like London could be terrorized by a... young lady, maybe just like you- "
"Don't judge a book by its cover, the saying says" she sharply answered. "The rumors are still valid, and once you met her, she's guaranteed to blow your mind. Anytime" she accentuated the last word on purpose.
"Touché!" the young man exclaimed and took another sip from his glass. "But still, from what I heard, she's supposed to work as an extravagant and luxurious courtesan, in order to... you know... attract her clientele or whatsoever. How do the papers say? Recommended at the price, insatiable an appetite-".
"Wanna try?" she finished, gazing in the distance, clearly having remembered something which made her lost in her thoughts for a couple of minutes. He noticed it and, not wanting to disturb the moment, relaxed into the cushions, lightened another cigarette and sat with closed eyes, smoking from time to time. The restaurant was now half-empty, so the music could be heard clearer in the nocturnal silence.
"What's the tune they're playing right now?" he suddenly asked. "I don't remember hearing it."
"It's My Melancholy Blues" she breathed out. "An old but a good one. Haven't heard it in ages!"
"I think it's beautiful..." he whispered, looking up at the ceiling and blowing the smoke in the air. "Shall we go upstairs, kitten? It's almost too late, and this place is about to close its doors. Plus, we'll be able to continue our acquaintance in a more intimate atmosphere, don't you think so?" he added after a few seconds, louder this time.
"Then what are we waiting for?" she smiled coyly. "Finally! It took you ages to say that", she thought to herself. Without waiting for his response, she headed to the grand elevators who would take them up to the luxurious apartment she was staying in. "Don't worry, my dear", she purred in his ear as the doors closed, "I promise I will make this night unforgettable for both of us! The best is yet to come..."
* * * * * *
"You know, I do resonate at some level with this enigmatic killer lady we've been talking about downstairs" the young woman started as she stepped out of the steamy bathroom.
"Like... how? Don't tell me you're a killer too!" the man laughed. "It would be so pathetic for me not to have noticed it in advance! But I must admit, you really don't look like one, to be honest..."
"Like I told you before, don't judge a book by its cover. Appearances might lie", she spoke as she put on her white bathrobe. The view from the floor-to-ceiling window in her room was spectacular: night-time London, sparkling with infinite colorful lights of the Christmas decorations, and a thin moon in the dark-grey sky, still covered by solitary clouds.
"Oh, so I must be precautious with you, kitten?" the man spoke with a husky voice.
"Like I said, I do resonate at some level with the killer woman" she repeated while pouring herself some water in an empty glass.
"I'm all ears to hear your story, kitten".
She looked him up and down with hooded eyes. "Glad it will be the last you hear tonight", she thought.
"So, as you might have already known, the lady preferred, in order to avoid complications, to never have the same address. Never in her whole life. That's where our first common thing pops up: I'm a runaway since the age of eighteen, so I constantly change place in order not to, you know, get caught..."
"Can I ask you who do you run away from?" the man propped his head on the elbows, curiously.
"It's a prohibited topic that only a handful of people get to know about me" she cut him. "Oh, don't be so fucking ridiculous! Don't act like you don't remember at all that night! We both know you're not that innocent!" she shouted in her mind. "Anyway, the young lady didn't meet any problems with finding herself a new and secure place. Among people, she was known as a rather well-educated person, with an exquisite sense of modesty, intelligence and natural beauty. In conversation, she spoke just like a baroness, which gave her a carte-blanche in her relationships with some quite wealthy people-".
"Well, here I can't complain, you spoke indeed like a baroness at the restaurant. My fair lady..." he continued, "I can only bet that you're well known among the London royalty..." he wondered, looking at her with admirative eyes. She returned the look and sat closer to him on the edge of the bed.
"However, there is a point where our destinies do separate, you know?" she stated, caressing his jawline. "One day, she met a man from China. A gorgeous young Chinese man who she fell in love with instantly. Then, she went down to Geisha Minah, one of her closest friends, in order to get a sort of prediction of her future with this man" she continued her idea. He was listening to her carefully and attentively, watching every move of her lips as she talked, the changing light in her green eyes, the way the warm light from the bedside lamp was creating unique shadows on her beautiful face. He tried to kiss her, but was suddenly shushed: "Wrong decision, to be honest", she whispered, probably referring both to his unsuccessful attempt and to the storyline. "Eventually, she got upset, a feeling which grew into anger as she found out later that her dear friend and her "future" husband have been seeing each other for quite a long time behind her back. Being both a vulnerable and an explosive type of person, she decided to end the things fast."
"She killed them?" the man asked.
"The geisha's corpse was found near a river. In fact, pieces of her corpse. Some of them, probably the upper-half of the body, were locally skinned. Terrible view, not gonna lie" she told him.
"Oh... that's... I can't even find words to say something...It's... sadistic, evil!" he tried to find the right words. "Wait, and what about the poor guy? Had she done something to him?" he asked, nervously.
"She'd decided that his time hasn't come yet; maybe it was the simple fact that she still loved him and that there was a slight chance that she'd forgive him. But I tend to think that she wanted to leave him for a better moment to get her full rage on him", the lady hummed.
The young man fell silent for a few moments before he asked: "And why, may I ask, she became a serial killer? If the problem was only between her and these two people?"
She stood up and went to her white wooden cabinet. As she was rummaging through it, she spoke again, with a darker tone than before:" I haven't finished the story yet." The room fell silent once again, this time for a longer period of time, the silence being interrupted only by the cars roaring in the distance and her barely-audible humming of a childish song. "Then again incidentally/ If you're that way inclined..."
The tension was now growing heavy; it appeared that sparks of electricity would burst out of the air if someone dared to speak. Suddenly, the man's gaze fell upon the bedside table where the dark brown revolver had been laying. With a questioned look, he turned to our dear lady and asked her about it, already breathing heavily and starting to question what was going on in this room. Her response was quite of unusual one: she turned around, a huge grin spread over her face and eyes looking up and down the poor man's figure. "I told you that the story isn't finished yet", she teased.
She took a few steps closer to the bed and finally revealed what she was hiding behind her back.
"A scarf? Why on earth would you...?" he began but didn't manage to finish his sentence, as her hand pushed him down onto the mattress. She gently put a finger on his lips and mouthed a "relax" while hovering over him. "Let me take good care of you", she purred as she started tying his wrists together with her silky red scarf. Not knowing what to expect, the man decided, however, to relax into her touch and soon he felt hypnotized by her perfume, coming, naturally, from Paris.
"This young lady wasn't interested in cars. She couldn't care less about them" she suddenly admitted while tying the knot.
"Why did you say that?", he whispered.
"Just remembered", she muttered. "A funny detail that always made me laugh, even in such moments like this one", she admitted, laughing. "Okay, now that we're done here, I demand you to close your eyes", her words were now barely audible, yet so sensually pronounced that the man obliged immediately.
"There you go, sweetheart", she smiled to herself, "I found you, after all this time!"
She climbed off top of him, just in order to get her elegant revolver from the bedside table. She took a few seconds to admire it, especially her little artwork on its left side: "Fastidious and precise". Exactly how she was going to act next.
"Drop of a hat she's as willing as// Playful as a pussy cat// Then momentarily out of action//Temporarily out of gas//To absolutely drive you wild, wild", she hummed as she loaded the gun. Fastidious. She bended over the man like a feline. Having noticed the strange sound, he suddenly opened his eyes and, with a shocked look, stared at the revolver in her hand. She stopped and looked back at his puzzled expression, grinning cockily. "What's wrong, sweetheart? Are you not happy to see me? Oh, say something, otherwise I might think you aren't really excited to meet me.", she punctuated the last words, purring in his ear," You know that if I don't hear a word from that pretty mouth of yours, I might get really, really sad", she spat. "And you won't like it, at all".
He would have loved to say something, but the shock was still blocking all his body muscles. "What's wrong, sweetie? Cat got your tongue?", she asked him, innocently.
Something in her voice made something click in his mind. "It's you...", were the only words he managed to form. "The mysterious London killer... It was you, all this fucking time! How haven't I noticed it from the beginning? Oh, what a fool!", he half-shouted in desperation. All this time, she was watching him, all beaming with the anticipation: her pupils were extremely dilated, her cheeks got a hint of rose, but her breathing was still pretty stable. Precise.
"The story hasn't got an ending", she whispered, positioning her revolver at his temple. "Yet".
Primal fear could be seen in his dark eyes as he felt the cold gunpoint poking in his head. A drop of sweat ran down his forehead as he was shaking with fear.
"Any last words?", she looked him straight into the eyes.
"I just wish you would be killed as ruthlessly and mercilessly as you did with your victims... Bitch!", he growled with anger.
"Say hi to Minah from her dear best friend", she spat, disgusted.
Gunshot. Silently as possible. The blood instantly covered the pillows, as well as the remains of his brain. "Gross", she uttered. "Not the best way to die, I absolutely agree with you", she added, "but the ideal one for dogs like you".
She stood up from the bed, admired her another artwork for a few brief moments and then lifted the phone receiver from the cabinet.
"Office? Target successfully hit", she spoke with a metallic voice. The other side of the telephone went silent just after she finished her sentence. She put the receiver down and looked around, trying to compose her thoughts. The next thing she did was to dress in her casual clothes, a pair of jeans, a black t-shirt and a grey hoodie with a pair of old sneakers. The rest was meant to be left in the hotel room. She grabbed her suitcase, prepared in advance, and headed towards the exit door. Looking back once more at the dead corpse laying on the bed, she smiled. "Who waits the longest, gets the best", she said out loud, as if he could hear her, and disappeared silently in the dark hall.
* * * * * *
"The original victim of the London "Killer Queen" is now officially dead. Yoshito Takashi, aged 34, found dead in the Ritz hotel room where the killer is supposed to have stayed for a short period of time. Killed with only one silent shot from the vintage 1910s revolver, Takashi was found dead three days after the crime has been done. Further details are yet to be announced by the police. Further investigation will be held in the next days. The Ritz Hotel, one of the most famous hotels in London and Europe will be closed during the whole period of the investigation. The killer's whereabouts remain unknown."
* * * * * *
"Agent 303? A new target is waiting for you", the speaker stated with a plain voice.
"I'm ready. What am I supposed to do?", the lady asked, sipping her coffee.
*This is a fanfiction, a result of a song challenge that I found somewhere in mid-November and posted on Wattpad. I would like to “re-post” it here, so I could delete my Wattpad story( its format is just not for me, sorry). And no, it does not include any kind of mentions of the band members, it is just how I see the song:)
**It looks like I’ll be more and more active on Tumblr these days because I suddenly felt an urge to write...:)
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BASTARDIZATION
by Réginald-Jérôme de Mans
Today’s topic has everything to do with bastards, illegitimate marriages of heretical ideas that could make #menswear purists blanche. As with much of what’s viewed as heresy or blasphemy against classic menswear, the garment pictured springs forth from the 1960s, both directly and indirectly. Bastardization, of course, is all about that indirectness, that genealogical “collateral” line. And yet mutts are sometimes the most beautiful and intelligent of animals… at least to this beholder.
I came to my #menswear cropper through a love for 1960s vividness, even recognizing that its Technicolor thrills were largely phenomena confined to a privileged middle and upper class. Still, the cinematic glories of Terence Stamp, Michael Caine, David Hemmings and others made an impression on my suburban adolescent self, as did David Bailey’s photographs. And, of course, Connery’s Bond. Today James Bond is trapped in a postmodern funhouse mirror of reboots and reimaginings, licensed more to retail brand names than to kill. The more stylish heir to Connery’s infamously politically incorrect Bond is the gloriously profane cartoon hero Sterling Archer, he who coined the portmanteau word “tactleneck”, the tactical turtleneck in the deepest black and the finest materials that accompanies him on all his most sensitive missions. In a review of Archer’s and Bond’s shirtmaker Turnbull & Asser, I noted that T&A are missing out on what could be a fruitful collaboration with Archer, being as they are the inventors of another glorious bastard turtleneck from my 1960s period of inspiration.
Warren Beatty and Hemmings, who famously sported searingly striped shirts (another T&A staple) as a fashion photographer in Blow-Up, modelled it, but it was Lord (not Edward) Snowdon who made this design most famous when he was turned away from a soirée in New York City for wearing it: a tuxedo shirt made out of silk with a turtleneck collar without any space for a bow tie. The design was bizarre but awesome: the simplicity of a turtleneck meant no studs, cummerbund or waistcoat, or the aforementioned bow tie. To my mind it’s aged rather better than the ruffled front tux shirt George Lazenby sports in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service.
According to my pal @voxsartoria, this shirt’s design was the brainchild of T&A’s creative cutter at the time, Robert Clark, who had come up with other bizarrely inventive models, such as the Clarney, a hunting shirt with a cravat in the same cloth as the shirt built in. There’s no word on whether he also designed a shirt called the Charney, after Dov of ill fame, that would sexually harass the wearer.
I hate tying a bow tie, even if thanks to Bruce Boyer’s latest book I now know that it more or less ties like a shoelace, so I wanted to have my own tactleneck, my tactical response for dealing with black tie that cuts through the fuss and bulk of putting on a dress set and a cummerbund, among other things. But bringing back an inspiration had its issues – as Jurassic Park suggested, every resuscitation results in some genetic variation. For one, T&A only offered it as a bespoke model and never came out with a ready-to-wear version, even though T&A’s currently doing all sorts of archive editions of famous designs, so it’s a design only available custom. However, as with other items of bespoke gimmickry, apparent simplicity hid significant artifice. In order not to show its closure, the T&A version buttoned up the back, something impossible to do on my own in my valet-free class and age.
No, additional bastardization was called for. I had my own shirtmaker create a new pattern for a turtleneck-collared shirt that buttoned up the side, keeping the closure out of sight but far easier to do up, rather like the buttoning on old fencing jackets (they use Velcro now). That inspiration also came from a 1960s T&A design, in this case the side-buttoning Cossack-style shirts that they popularized after having made models for Omar Sharif to wear in Doctor Zhivago (Omar was a loyal fellow who continued to patronize T&A for decades thereafter). The collar still has to button around the back, but that can be done on my own with a lot of swearing.
In true bastard fashion I did not go back to the source, to the Churchill Room at Turnbull & Asser to have this shirt made. New customers at most English shirtmakers are required to place a minimum order of three or six shirts, and I don’t have any call for that. I instead tested one of my current shirtmakers’ skills in asking him to create a completely new pattern for an odd shirt design. Among other things I knew I could trust him to fit a test shirt on me before making the actual shirt up, something the British don’t do.
A more practical query would be why I didn’t just use a knitted turtleneck in cashmere or cotton, since those stretch and don’t need to be cut and fitted. Even at their finest, however, knits can still add more bulk under a sportcoat than a woven cloth, and they just don’t have the sheen of silk. Nor do knits usually have French cuffs for cufflinks. (For some reasons, the original T&A design had button cuffs despite being made for black tie; I changed that.) Good silk for making shirts is rather hard to find; even though 50 years ago it seems to have been the material of choice for better business shirts and formal wear shirts, to judge by mentions in those Bond novels that helped launch Connery. Nonetheless, silk is far more delicate and difficult to clean than, and generally doesn’t breathe nearly as well as, cotton. There are wonderful cottons available now that have some of silk’s luster and fineness, but in homage to my inspirations I too wanted this shirt in silk. I know that the cloth house David & John Anderson has a book of silks called “Jade” (their finer cotton books are named after diamonds and emeralds, so “Jade” is obviously a bow to China where silk weaving first originated). That book might as well exist in name only, as it was impossible to obtain, but DJA’s sister company Thomas Mason had a fine ivory silk twill that we made this up in.
The result, an obvious bastardization of black tie – tieless, waistcoatless, sashless. It looked and felt exactly as I had intended – different and yet somehow elegant in its own way, at least in my own mind – the offwhite ivory color less severe than a pure white would have been, the silk’s sheen and softness elegantly replacing conventional collar and bowtie. A tactile tactic better, in my own admittedly biased view, than the dark necktie or other inglorious bastardizations that pass for creative black tie nowadays.
Quality content, like quality clothing, ages well. This article first appeared on the No Man blog in November 2017.
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Guide to Getting Good Gloves this Winter
Good gloves are often worth the money. If you trust yourself not to lose a pair in a bar or leave them behind a cab, quality gloves -- particularly those made from leather -- will look better with age. One of my favorite style photos is this one of Luciano Barbera’s brown peccary gloves, which Scott Schuman shot for his site, The Sartorailist. Well worn and aged, they’ve acquired a patina over the years like a pair of good shoes.
Reasonably nice gloves don’t have to be expensive either. You can pick up a pair for about $50 at almost any well-stocked department store. Some of my favorite gloves are a pair I bought almost ten years ago at Nordstom (they were part of the store’s house line, although no longer available). They lack the finer details of my more expensive gloves, but they make up for it in character. Once you wear a pair of gloves for a few years, they’ll become some of your best looking accessories. And while there’s a lot of wisdom in that Coco Chanel line about taking one thing off before you leave the house, practical accessories are a great way to add visual interest without seeming contrived.
If you don’t already have a pair, here are five things to consider when shopping for some, as well as suggestions on worthwhile brands.
Know Your Fit: There are some companies out there that can make you custom-fitted gloves, such as Chester Jefferies, but most people will be better served with off-the-rack pieces. The key is to know your size. Wrap a measuring tape around the widest part of your palm and the number in inches is your glove size. Most companies offer sizes in half-inch increments, but if you find yourself in-between sizes, go with the smaller fit. Gloves naturally stretch with time.
Pay Attention to Materials: Skip anything made from acrylic -- they’re simply not that warm. Wool is worth the up-charge, so long as the knitting is dense. A bit better still is something in leather, but here you’ll want to pay attention to the different types of skins. Lambskin and kidskin are smooth and fine enough to pair with any kind of tailored clothing; peccary and carpincho are slightly textured looking, which I find gives a nice, distinct look against rustic fabrics such as tweed. Deerskin and buckskin, on the other hand, are heavily grained and often designed for more causal use. You'll typically want to use those with more rugged, workwear outfits, where a pair of fine lambskin gloves may not visually hold their own.
Choose a Lining that Fits Your Climate: There’s a trade-off here between warmth and silhouette. Unlined gloves fit closer to your hand, giving them a more svelte and, I think, flattering look. Fur-lined gloves, on the other hand, will keep your fingers toasty in the coldest of climates, but they can look like oven mitts. For something between these two worlds, consider gloves lined in silk, wool, or cashmere. I personally use unlined gloves for temperatures above 50 degrees, then cashmere-lined gloves for anything colder.
Consider Color: Black and gray gloves can be great for outfits that mostly rely on black and gray, but otherwise, brown is your most versatile color. Your gloves don’t match your shoes, but they should complement your outfit, so think of the total look. Unusual colors, such as green, yellow, or navy, can also be a nice way to add a bit of a colorful eccentricity. If you, like me, favor texture over loud colors, try something in suede. Just note that suede will age in patchy and uneven ways, but that
Look at the Construction: Hand stitching can be nice on higher-end gloves if you value craft, but the biggest distinction is in how the fingers have been made. If the edges have been tucked in, such that the fingers have been sewn and then flipped inside out, you'll have a slightly slimmer silhouette. If the edges face outward, such that you can see the stitched seam from the outside, they'll look thicker. Some gloves will also have little diamond-shaped gussets, known as quirks, sewn between the fingers to aid movement.
Where to Buy
As mentioned above, most people will be fine with just a single pair of gloves in mid- or dark-brown leather, which can found in almost any well-stocked department store for about $50. For something that’s a step up, check Dents and Hestra. They have a wide range of makes -- some handsewn, others machine made -- but they’re guaranteed to be constructed from quality materials. Aarch, Thomas Riemer, and Merola are also exceptional (better than some Dents and Hestras, depending on which sublines you’re comparing against). For the top-of-the-line, I’ve yet to come across anything as finely made as Lavabre Cadet, although you’ll pay for the quality.
Many of those more versatile styles can worn with almost anything, but if you have a particular wardrobe, you may want to look elsewhere. Ah Okay sells contemporary styled gloves that would work well with similarly contemporary casualwear (I like their two-layer model). Red Wing and Dachstein Woolwear would be nice for rugged workwear. There are also a ton of companies selling well-made wool gloves of various designs, such as Drake’s, Upstate Stock, American Trench, Guideboat, Howlin’ by Morrison, Barbour, and J. Crew. I have a couple of pairs of fingerless wool gloves -- one pair navy, the other gray -- from Margaret Howell that I really like. Wool gloves look a bit more casual than leather, and they won’t acquire a patina, but they can be a great way to accessorize an outfit all the same.
#Accessories#Gloves#Nordstrom#presidents#Hestra#Aarch#Thomas Riemer#Merola#Lavabre Cadet#Ah Okay#Red Wing#Dachstein Woolwear#American Trench#Drake's#Upstate Stock#Guideboat#Howlin by Morrison#Barbour#J. Crew#Margaret Howell
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With few exceptions, selling reports on 2019 tailored clothing business have not been great. While the sky’s not falling, both department and independent specialty stores are struggling to maintain volume. At department stores, clothing business has been increasingly promotional (if that’s even possible) while many independent stores trying to sell suits at ticket price are finding themselves with excess inventory. In most upscale stores, luxury brands have fared better than most.
Says Steve Pruitt, retail analyst at Blacks Consulting, who advises top luxury stores across the country, “Clothing is soft across the markets, but not as bad as we sometimes hear. Overall clothing is running down (January-September) three percent. While sportscoats are up two percent, suits are down five percent and special order (now 30 percent of clothing volume in upscale stores) is down four percent.”
Pruitt maintains that the bigger issue for both retailers and manufacturers is the lack of newness in suits and sportscoats. “Weddings seem to be the biggest driver for demand in suits, so it’s become purely an event-driven business. Of course, there are isolated markets that still require suits for business but this is declining as the customer ages.”
Dan Farrington from Mitchells stores acknowledges that sportswear and footwear are driving menswear sales but tries to give it a positive spin. “The fact that we’re not in a tailored cycle presents us with an opportunity to gain market share. Clothing is such an important part of our business, we can’t resign ourselves to doing less. We’d like to think that as a suit becomes more an occasion purchase, customers will spend more for higher quality.”
Retail analyst Danny Paul is also somewhat optimistic. Although in the stores that he counsels, suits have been down for 10 consecutive months and 17 out of the past 18 months, he’s encouraged by some growth in sportcoats. “Sportcoat sales in October were the strongest we’ve seen so far this year; they appear to be the one bright spot in tailored clothing. Made-to-measure posted its fourth consecutive monthly increase, although some of those months were small gains. Dress trousers sales have been down for eight of the last 10 months, no doubt affected by the strength in casual pants and five pockets. It’s apparent that something new and exciting needs to be added to all tailored classifications, especially suits, to pique customer interest and give clothing the lift it needs for 2020.”
Pruitt agrees. “Moving forward, retailers need to have upfront conversations about the kinds of events that can drive clothing business. Most importantly, the modeling needs to change. We’ve seen fashion presentations with a new focus on pleats, something that could drive a new coat silhouette. But most retailers are slow to adapt, reluctant to introduce this change to their clients.”
Farrington admits some reluctance. “We’re seeing a few looser pant models and some single pleats, but in general, we have no indication that our customers are ready for this since guys seem comfortable with today’s slim (but not tight) fit.” Like most upscale retailers, Farrington says his clothing business is best at the very high end: Kiton, Brunello Cucinelli, Brioni. Made-to-measure (averaging 20 percent to clothing sales but ranging dramatically by store) is also holding its own. “I love made-to-measure: no inventory, no markdowns, no returns… We need to further nurture this business.”
Johnell Garmany at Garmany in Red Bank, New Jersey also reports strong business at the luxury level. “We sell Kiton jackets that are $7,500-$9,000; I just sold one for $12,000. Other key brands are Canali, Ravazzolo, and Isaia. Made-to-measure is also growing, especially our own label: from $700 to Italian-made suits for $4,000-$5,000.”
At 25-30 percent of Garmany’s menswear, tailored clothing remains healthy. “Even guys who no longer wear suits every day are noticing that the ones they own are looking dated. So, they’re shopping, especially at special events that we do monthly. What’s driving sales is suits that can be worn as separates. The suit jacket worn with jeans. The trousers on their own. Or they buy a 3-piece suit and wear the vest with jeans. We’re selling more patch pockets and softer shoulders so that the suit coat can also be worn casually.”
At Andrisen Morton in Denver, Craig Andrisen remains optimistic about tailored clothing, which generates 55 percent of his menswear sales (40 percent fashion, 30 percent in-stock, 30 percent made-to-measure). “If you look up and down the street, you’ll see that most men have no idea how to put together a business casual look, so the potential for growth is there.”
At the more moderate level, Macy’s VP Mark Stocker (who is contemplating adding made-to-measure to his mix but does not currently offer it) admits his reluctance to jump on the loose oversized fits shown on designer runways. “Our customer is not there yet. Single pleat models and cuffs could reemerge; we’re touching on those now. But as for the exaggerated runway styles, not yet. Our customer is finally getting comfortable with color and pattern; new fashion has to be digested gradually.”
SELF-FULFILLING PROPHESY?
Peerless president John Tighe has a reasonable explanation for declining suit business at retail: too many retailers have stopped believing in it. “Business has been tough, mostly because stores that have given up on tailored clothing are not presenting it as they believe in it so their sales are down. Those merchants who are investing in their business are doing well: specialty stores like Miltons and The Garage, and I have to say Macy’s, where tailored clothing is called out on virtually every earnings call. They believe in it: they’ve invested in floor space, inventory, fixturing, sales associates. I give tremendous credit to Jeff and his team.”
According to Tighe, whose company is the largest producer of tailored clothing for the U.S. and Canada with labels ranging from Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, and Tommy Hilfiger to Hart Schaffner Marx, Tallia, and Shaq, customers are looking for newness and innovation. “There’s so much excitement out there,” he maintains, “especially fabric innovation: new blends, stretch, recyclable, sustainable. Five years ago, our suit business was pure wools; today, the majority of what we sell features stretch.”
Clearly, stretch and tech fabrics are driving sales for many clothing brands. At Lanier, Matt Silverman sings the praises of their new performance fabrics in Cole Haan, Kenneth Cole, and Strong Suit. He points to a jacket with mesh inserts and a cool-max lining and demonstrates how the wrinkles roll out of a new bi-stretch fabric using 290s high-twist yarns. He matches a knit jacket with a drawstring, jogger-type pants. Brent Kestin at Q by Flynt (a division of Trybus) touts the “empty” tailoring they’re putting into their sportscoats (all patch pockets and made with Italian piece goods), confiding that last year’s fit was a bit too trim so they’ve sized up slightly for American bodies. At Paisley & Gray, whose major accounts include Macy’s and Men’s Wearhouse, the focus is clothing combined with sportswear: softly tailored jackets and pants anchoring a mix of knits, wovens, and outerwear. Says Vince Marrone, “Our fall 2020 clothing features an array of fabrics from bold vibrant patterns to rich velvets to classic vintage-inspired tweeds.”
DOING THEIR OWN THING
To Tighe’s point, tailored clothing is selling well in stores that support it. At Penners in San Antonio, Mitchell Penner (4th generation) explains that tailored clothing had been declining, now it’s back on an upswing. “We believe in it so we carry an extensive inventory of sizes: 36-74 in regulars, shorts, longs, even portly. Most of our sales range from $495-$895 (HSM averages $1,800); our custom averages $2,900. Key brands include Peerless, Jack Victor, HSM, Hugo Boss, H. Cohen, and Eisenberg. We use Baroni for margin: they make beautiful lightweight super 150s suits that cost us $200 and we sell them for $595. We have seven on-site tailors and we don’t take markdowns. We realize that suit business nationwide has been tough but we continue to do our own thing.”
Another independent merchant who’s taken an aggressive stance is David Elkus at Michigan-based Baron’s and Todd’s. Unwilling to sit back and watch his suit sales erode, he launched a major month-long promotion this past September (calling it Suitember), promoting suits for the entire month and donating a portion of proceeds to local charities. Says Elkus, “Our Suitember results were beyond our expectations! Baron’s suit sales were up over 60 percent, Todd’s suit sales were up nearly 50 percent. All other departments benefitted from the increase in traffic. Our charitable partners were happy, our customers were happy, and we were thrilled! A win-win-win! I’m excited for next year!” (Editor’s note, Elkus’ goal for 2020 is to make Suitember a national promotion in independent stores across the country; for more info: 248-865-9960.)
THE NEW SUIT
While there’s no way to instantly transform an entire culture that’s shifted to casual dressing, there are ways to construct suits that are softer, lighter and more comfortable. But it’s not easy!
At Sant’ Andrea, a much-admired Italian luxury brand that’s recently entered the U.S. market, Luciano Moresco explains, “Sant’Andrea customers look to us for the finest hand-craftsmanship and for luxury materials like cashmere and cashmere/silk blends. For fall 2020, a significant portion of our collection has been lighted up, eliminating the padding but keeping a light canvas in the shoulders to give a touch of support to the clean and fluid lines of the garments.”
Says Samuelsohn’s creative director Arnold Silverstone, “We just came out with our lightest full-canvas garment ever. The challenge is how to make a super-soft unconstructed garment look rich and expensive, not like a rag. How we do it: I work very closely with our master patternmaker, back and forth, over and over, until every detail is perfect. We use the lightest canvas, no shoulder pads, no chest piece, but expensive interlinings and a tremendous amount of hand-basting. It’s a lot of work.”
Silverstone maintains that suits are not going away and that business is cyclical. “I think there’s still room for suits but there has to be a new suit. Not a structured garment: soft, unconstructed, with some flow. Still close to the body but using softer materials, richer tailoring, less trim. The customer shouldn’t feel confined by the shoulder pad or chest piece—it should feel more like sweats. And, of course, this new suit needs a lifestyle approach to presentation.”
Confides Dan Farrington, ever the pragmatist: “I’m eagerly awaiting that big sweeping change in tailored clothing. In the meantime, we need to tighten our inventory.”
Larry Rosen from Harry Rosen stores (Canada’s largest luxury menswear retailer with 20 magnificent stores across the country) puts a slightly different spin on the precarious state of tailored clothing. “There’s no doubt men are wearing fewer suits, but I believe it’s our responsibility as retailers to show them other ways of dressing for work. Just because an executive isn’t wearing a suit doesn’t mean he shouldn’t dress with a strong point of view. Instead of convincing men to go back to dressing the old way, we need to educate them on new ways. Most importantly, luxury menswear merchants need to focus on things that will ensure our future, like getting in younger customers. We might have to excite them digitally, which we’re now helping our associates learn how to do. But whatever it takes, our future depends on engaging the next generation.”
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A Look Back At 2018
Happy New Year! Ok, so I’m a little late on that. I meant to write this sometime last week but I didn’t want it to feel forced. I purposely took about two weeks after Christmas to recharge and do almost nothing because I was incredibly burnt out after all the Christmas knitting and was in desperate need of me time. I felt so ‘lost’ on Christmas Eve that I wanted to start a new project but couldn’t figure out what until a few days later. I want to knit all the things, but the one thing I wanted to knit I couldn’t because the yarn got backordered while the company were dyeing all their Black Friday orders. That’s a clusterfuck I don’t want to get into. I also planned on organizing several things as I try to do every year during ‘dead week’ including my RSS reader, Pinterest, email subscriptions, all the things I let slip away from me and got maybe half of that done. I still can’t believe how extremely disorganized my Pinterest recipes are, even after they finally introduced sections within boards.
Clockwise from top-left: Hearthstone (Feb): madelinetosh MCN Sport - Milkshake Loulou (April): madelinetosh DK Twist - Scout Rugged Coat (Dec, sister): madelinetosh Work Sock - Reindeer Like a Cloud (Nov): madelinetosh MCN Fingering - Pavement Aibrean (Nov): madelinetosh DK Twist - Nadir
On the knitting front, I would call it successful. It was definitely the year of the garments after doubling the number of sweaters I’ve ever done in a year to five. It doesn’t seem like a lot but I forced myself to start knitting down my sweater quantities stash after some major stash enhancements over the last couple of years. Knit a longs were a big help in pushing me to knitting more this past year, really knitting more in general because the community is so positive towards helping and encouraging everyone. Even if I didn’t win any of the fantastic prizes that were offered, I still win by having a new garment to wear and enjoyed making. I made my first top-down sweaters, learned i-cord and had my first adventures in alternating skeins to keep colors from pooling and/or looking uneven.
L-R and down: Herringbone Rib Socks (Feb): madelinetosh Twist Light - Marfa Mash Potato Socks (May): madelinetosh Euro Sock - OOAK Boyfriend Socks (June): Dream in Color Smooshy w/Cashmere - Navy Zeal Beachgrass Socks (July): Woolen Boon Boon Classic - Peach Perfect Daenerys Socks (Aug, own design): madelinetosh Twist Light - Daenerys Khotan (Aug): SweetGeorgia Yarns Tough Love Sock - Ginger First Star Socks (Oct, cousin): Nerd Girl Yarns Binary Sock - Vault Dweller Prismatic (Oct): SweetGeorgia Yarns Tough Love Sock - Fauna Flying Dutchman (Dec): Circus Tonic Handmade Revelry Sock - Zebra Finch
Sock wise was about the same as the previous year and I still fell short of my yearly goal of a pair per month. I’m really hoping to turn that around because my sock yarn stash has truly grown out of control and I’m trying super hard this year to cold sheep (not buy any yarn, with very few exceptions, at least in my case). Because of KALs, I challenged myself more to use different yarns and patterns that I wouldn’t necessarily glaze over but attempt to pair things differently than I would’ve otherwise. Socks are the one thing I let my creativity run wild, sometimes a little too wild, but I try to keep things within some guidelines that I set per project. I mainly pair the yarns and patterns to go together and not allow one to dominate the other.
Top-down: Envol (Feb, cousin): Scheepjes Merino Soft - Degas Sugar Pop (May): SweetGeorgia Yarns Tough Love Sock - Tumblestone and Party of Five Fairytale Imbue (June): madelinetosh Euro Sock - Tern and Calligraphy Strolling on Cloud 9 (Oct, sister): Northbound Knitting MCN DK - Bourbon Zilver (Nov, mother): Northbound Knitting Merino/Silk Fingering - Dumbo
Overall I completed more projects in 2018 with 24.5 (the half is for the one sweater I started in ‘17 and completed in ‘18) versus 17 in 2017, how fitting. I’ve turned some weird knitting corner, accepted to enjoy purl stitches (a stitch I’ve always hated), expanded my cast ons and bind offs, and knit a little outside my comfort zone. I even knitted a couple of shawls for myself, which I’ve never done before because I never really cared for them. Not to mention start a color swatch project for an entire community, which took off and exploded beyond my expectations. The plan for 2019 is to really start knitting down my stash, especially my reclaimed yarns I’ve been hording all these years. More socks, more sweaters, maybe another shawl. I want to get back into the more rustic yarns after dipping my toe into the superwash merino world. Nothing wrong with it, I have so many other yarns that have been sitting in my stash feeling neglected lately. I’m definitely looking forward to stepping into the world of colorwork patterns more. My knitting mojo still runs high and I want to knit all the things.
Shop wise was amazing. I saw a major increase in sales after several years of wondering if I could achieve those numbers. While I didn’t weave as much as I wanted to and started to feel a little lost and indecisive, I saw a massive increase in people looking for reclaimed/recycled yarns. I think people have realized it’s much cheaper and more environmentally friendly to buy these types of yarns than buying brand new. I plan to get back into weaving more scarves once I give the site a little refresh. I have a few ideas in mind involving different textures and color mixing that I want to try out, especially true plaids. Always more reclaimed yarns once I go shopping again, the hunt is exhilarating sometimes. If you’re looking for handbags and clutches, my sewing mojo is completely gone and I don’t know when it’s coming back. Blame all the knitting and yarns, I know I have some fabric hidden under the huge yarn pile and patterns.
As for that site refresh, it’s something I’ve been planning for awhile now, hence the lack of blogging. I’ve been trying to create a better gallery to show off all those projects I’ve been working on. Web coding has been kind of a side passion project that’s been a major learning experience every time I decide to redo the layout. There’s always Instagram but I feel sometimes that’s not enough and I’m still trying to find that good balance of showcasing personal projects on the trnchd IG account vs. my personal one. Some people don’t follow both because they’re supposed to have different content but I want to feature some of my projects even if they have nothing to do with the shop. I think I’ll forever struggle with how I share my projects on social media.
I hope all of you are well rested after the 2018 festivities and have had a great start to 2019.
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BASTARDIZATION
by Réginald-Jérôme de Mans
Today’s topic has everything to do with bastards, illegitimate marriages of heretical ideas that could make #menswear purists blanche. As with much of what’s viewed as heresy or blasphemy against classic menswear, the garment pictured springs forth from the 1960s, both directly and indirectly. Bastardization, of course, is all about that indirectness, that genealogical “collateral” line. And yet mutts are sometimes the most beautiful and intelligent of animals… at least to this beholder.
I came to my #menswear cropper through a love for 1960s vividness, even recognizing that its Technicolor thrills were largely phenomena confined to a privileged middle and upper class. Still, the cinematic glories of Terence Stamp, Michael Caine, David Hemmings and others made an impression on my suburban adolescent self, as did David Bailey’s photographs. And, of course, Connery’s Bond. Today James Bond is trapped in a postmodern funhouse mirror of reboots and reimaginings, licensed more to retail brand names than to kill. The more stylish heir to Connery’s infamously politically incorrect Bond is the gloriously profane cartoon hero Sterling Archer, he who coined the portmanteau word “tactleneck”, the tactical turtleneck in the deepest black and the finest materials that accompanies him on all his most sensitive missions. In a review of Archer’s and Bond’s shirtmaker Turnbull & Asser, I noted that T&A are missing out on what could be a fruitful collaboration with Archer, being as they are the inventors of another glorious bastard turtleneck from my 1960s period of inspiration.
Warren Beatty and Hemmings, who famously sported searingly striped shirts (another T&A staple) as a fashion photographer in Blow-Up, modelled it, but it was Lord (not Edward) Snowdon who made this design most famous when he was turned away from a soirée in New York City for wearing it: a tuxedo shirt made out of silk with a turtleneck collar without any space for a bow tie. The design was bizarre but awesome: the simplicity of a turtleneck meant no studs, cummerbund or waistcoat, or the aforementioned bow tie. To my mind it’s aged rather better than the ruffled front tux shirt George Lazenby sports in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service.
According to my pal @voxsartoria, this shirt’s design was the brainchild of T&A’s creative cutter at the time, Robert Clark, who had come up with other bizarrely inventive models, such as the Clarney, a hunting shirt with a cravat in the same cloth as the shirt built in. There’s no word on whether he also designed a shirt called the Charney, after Dov of ill fame, that would sexually harass the wearer.
I hate tying a bow tie, even if thanks to Bruce Boyer’s latest book I now know that it more or less ties like a shoelace, so I wanted to have my own tactleneck, my tactical response for dealing with black tie that cuts through the fuss and bulk of putting on a dress set and a cummerbund, among other things. But bringing back an inspiration had its issues – as Jurassic Park suggested, every resuscitation results in some genetic variation. For one, T&A only offered it as a bespoke model and never came out with a ready-to-wear version, even though T&A’s currently doing all sorts of archive editions of famous designs, so it’s a design only available custom. However, as with other items of bespoke gimmickry, apparent simplicity hid significant artifice. In order not to show its closure, the T&A version buttoned up the back, something impossible to do on my own in my valet-free class and age.
No, additional bastardization was called for. I had my own shirtmaker create a new pattern for a turtleneck-collared shirt that buttoned up the side, keeping the closure out of sight but far easier to do up, rather like the buttoning on old fencing jackets (they use Velcro now). That inspiration also came from a 1960s T&A design, in this case the side-buttoning Cossack-style shirts that they popularized after having made models for Omar Sharif to wear in Doctor Zhivago (Omar was a loyal fellow who continued to patronize T&A for decades thereafter). The collar still has to button around the back, but that can be done on my own with a lot of swearing.
In true bastard fashion I did not go back to the source, to the Churchill Room at Turnbull & Asser to have this shirt made. New customers at most English shirtmakers are required to place a minimum order of three or six shirts, and I don’t have any call for that. I instead tested one of my current shirtmakers’ skills in asking him to create a completely new pattern for an odd shirt design. Among other things I knew I could trust him to fit a test shirt on me before making the actual shirt up, something the British don’t do.
A more practical query would be why I didn’t just use a knitted turtleneck in cashmere or cotton, since those stretch and don’t need to be cut and fitted. Even at their finest, however, knits can still add more bulk under a sportcoat than a woven cloth, and they just don’t have the sheen of silk. Nor do knits usually have French cuffs for cufflinks. (For some reasons, the original T&A design had button cuffs despite being made for black tie; I changed that.) Good silk for making shirts is rather hard to find; even though 50 years ago it seems to have been the material of choice for better business shirts and formal wear shirts, to judge by mentions in those Bond novels that helped launch Connery. Nonetheless, silk is far more delicate and difficult to clean than, and generally doesn’t breathe nearly as well as, cotton. There are wonderful cottons available now that have some of silk’s luster and fineness, but in homage to my inspirations I too wanted this shirt in silk. I know that the cloth house David & John Anderson has a book of silks called “Jade” (their finer cotton books are named after diamonds and emeralds, so “Jade” is obviously a bow to China where silk weaving first originated). That book might as well exist in name only, as it was impossible to obtain, but DJA’s sister company Thomas Mason had a fine ivory silk twill that we made this up in.
The result, an obvious bastardization of black tie – tieless, waistcoatless, sashless. It looked and felt exactly as I had intended – different and yet somehow elegant in its own way, at least in my own mind – the offwhite ivory color less severe than a pure white would have been, the silk’s sheen and softness elegantly replacing conventional collar and bowtie. A tactile tactic better, in my own admittedly biased view, than the dark necktie or other inglorious bastardizations that pass for creative black tie nowadays.
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