#brass nozzles

[therealdill1]

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[zyroxan]

Minneapolis Natural Stone Pavers Front Yard

Summertime image of a sizable, full-sun, stone water fountain in a front yard in the Mediterranean.

[whatwillheidiwatneyeattoday]

Minneapolis Natural Stone Pavers Front Yard

Summertime image of a sizable, full-sun, stone water fountain in a front yard in the Mediterranean.

[ghostsinmyramen]

Minneapolis Natural Stone Pavers Front Yard

Summertime image of a sizable, full-sun, stone water fountain in a front yard in the Mediterranean.

[jacob-allan]

Minneapolis Natural Stone Pavers Front Yard Summertime image of a sizable, full-sun, stone water fountain in a front yard in the Mediterranean.

[danakaterine]

Traditional Landscape - Driveway An example of a huge traditional full sun front yard stone landscaping in spring.

[raajrajasharma]

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[okengineers]

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[fadingtimetravelqueen]

Spray Nozzle Water Gun Brass High Pressure Direct Spray

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[gobcorend]

"It was a pleasure to burn. It was a special pleasure to see things eaten, to see things blackened and changed. With the brass nozzle in his fists, with this great python spitting its venomous kerosene upon the world, the blood pounded in his head, and his hands were the hands of some amazing conductor playing all the symphonies of blazing and burning to bring down the tatters and charcoal ruins of history."

-- Fahrenheit 451 by Ray Bradbury

[andreai04]

How do you get so empty? he wondered. Who takes it out of you?

It was a pleasure to burn.

It was a special pleasure to see things eaten, to see things blackened and changed. With the brass nozzle in his fists, with this great python spitting its venomous kerosene upon the world, the blood pounded in his head, and his hands were the hands of some amazing conductor playing all the symphonies of blazing and burning to bring down the tatters and charcoal ruins of history.

Books were only one type of receptacle where we stored a lot of things we were afraid we might forget. There is nothing magical in them, at all. The magic is only in what books say, how they stitched the patches of the universe together into one garment for us.

[modmad]

so i know gears is charlie chaplin modern times, and i know buster keaton famously failed the roof jump (googling suggests movie is 3 ages? search me if i could remember tho). but whom and what was that fire truck stunt?

understandable! it's Harold Lloyd in Girl Shy (1924), and in this particular stunt he was knocked unconscious because the brass nozzle of the fire hose bounced off the road while the truck was moving and hit him in the head! yikes! there are many great silent comedians but Lloyd is right up there with Chaplin and Keaton, and I thought I should give his films their rightful place in the bizarre dreamscapes in TPoH

[user-needs-a-username]

The Hearth and the Salamander

It was a pleasure to burn. It was a special pleasure to see things eaten, to see things blackened and changed. With the brass nozzle in his fists, with this great python spitting its venomous kerosene upon the world, the blood pounded in his head, and his hands were the hands of some amazing conductor playing all the symphonies of blazing and burning to bring down the tatters and charcoal ruins of history. With his symbolic helmet numbered 451 on his stolid head, and his eyes all orange flame with the thought of what came next, he flicked the igniter and the house jumped up in a gorging fire that burned the evening sky red and yellow and black. He strode in a swarm of fireflies. He wanted above all, like the old joke, to shove a marshmallow on a stick in the furnace, while the flapping pigeon-winged books died on the porch and lawn of the house. While the books went up in sparkling whirls and blew away on a wind turned dark with burning.

I really like this book, so I thought I’d share it. It just came back to me and now I want to reread it!

Here’s the link to a pdf if anyone wants to read it with me.

[secondgenerationnerd]

Mind telling me more about Collin?

Of course!

So Colin is legally an orphan, but if you ask him, he'll say he's got a bunch of moms and dads. "Even better, they chose to love me."

He's severely dsylexic. He found that audiobooks and working with people one on one helps

His powers stem from being kidnapped and tortured by Bane and Scarecrow, who injected him with Bane's venom. While he can focus this and use the venom to change into a behemoth. He goes by Abuse and has custom brass knuckles with the name.

However, a consequence of these powers is a lot of chronic pain. Like a deep burning pain in his bones and joints. He gets flare up that leave him incapacitated for days.

The first time he experienced one of these around his teammates, they all found little ways to help. If he didn't want to be alone, they'd help him to the couch. Watch tv with him, help him with eating or drinking, including him in the conversation. If he wants to be alone, they'll periodically check in, but leave him be.

Their parents? They make damn sure he's got good pain meds, someone checks on him every hour, helps him to the bathroom and with bathing if they need to. But they always ask him what he needs.

The first christmas as a team, he got so many presents--not just toys and games, but brand new clothes and decorations for his room, school supplies, audiobooks, videogames. He kept stopping to blink away tears. He hugged every parent there for a solid minute each afterwards.

Because of some truly horrific foster parents, he knows how pto read people better than some of the Bats. If the team meets someone knew, one look from Colin determines how they proceed.

He will always call people on their bullshit. Like he isn't afraid to tell Damian he's being a douche nozzle and to shut up so whoever can speak.

He's one of the the first friends that makes Damian feel like a true kid.

Colin gets along well with all the families, but Roy is definitely his favorite.

He is the Bi-King of their team. Definitely helped Jon with the bi-confusion.

He is catholic, like Milagro, but don't mistake his faith for your ignorance. He is surrounded by a lot of people with different beliefs and ideals. He knows what a bad person acts like and it has nothing to do with who they worship or who they love

[bonfire-at-the-crossroads]

I’ve spent the last two afternoons scrubbing and polishing candlesticks. These are just a few of the brass ones I’ve been collecting from auctions over the last year - in preparation for Maddie’s Big Fat Irish Wedding on Sunday.

The silver ones? All stashed into the big oak chest in the living room - and I will guess there are at least 75 of these…..

Filthy, stinky work which cramps my fingers, stains my nails, and breaks my back (it’s done standing in the bathroom where I can rinse them down with the shower nozzle)

But they are bright and cheery now - which is more than can be said for me.

[catboymachinegun]

silk PLA for fdm printing is either overhyped or overhated and it seems like good tips about how to use it properly get overshadowed.

this is everything I’ve learned the hard way from working with silk and similar filaments for a while + some general tips:

silk PLA needs to be dried often. it collects moisture quicker than regular PLA. I usually dry mine after long prints (12-24 hours) in a standard filament dryer for 8-12 hours.

biggest misconception I’ve seen is that you can’t sand silk. you can but most people don’t. I don’t think most companies expect it to be sanded either since it’s usually printed as-is. if the thing you’re printing is functional, printing in silk is a bad idea regardless.

if you’re going to sand it then I’d recommend starting with 200 grit first (I usually use 220), then increase gradually until 1200+ grit. the grit increments you can find at most auto parts stores will work fine. wet sand at 600 grit and up. you need to sand slowly and sand until all scratch marks for the current grit layer are no longer visible (you can’t sand out these scratches once increasing to the next layer unless you start the process over at your lowest grit.) sand the entire piece. use a file if you only need to sand a small part. afterwards, you’ll need polishing/heat treatment to restore the shine lost. you can use a polishing agent or lightly heat the surface with a heat gun. be very careful to not melt/warp the part. don’t hold the heat gun too close to the surface.

you don’t have to print it as high as 220°. some brands like matterhackers and hatchbox are better at the 210° to 215° range on direct drive machines if printing with a brass nozzle. silk becomes stringy at higher temps. this will be a problem if you’re printing too hot. on the other hand, higher temps will result in a shinier surface. if you have to or can print hotter, it’ll have a silkier finish.

partially related but brass nozzles have a shorter life expectancy than some other materials. if you’re printing at 215-220+ every print, it can wear them out faster. if your prints suddenly look like shit try changing your nozzle. your silver nozzle may not conduct heat as well as brass. if you upgrade to silver, you may need to raise your temp by 5-10°.

cooling for silk is different than regular PLA. you might not need 100% cooling. if you have a machine like a neptune 4 that has an auxiliary cooler, try turning it off. I usually print silk at 70% fans with no aux cooling.

retraction will vary based on your machine. direct drives generally don’t need more than 1-3 retraction. i keep my retraction speed between 25-30 (which is on the lower end) but your machine might need something faster. up to 60-70 could work, but if you see bubbles in the print, set it slower. air might be getting trapped when the filament retracts.

silks and a lot of other special PLA needs to print slow. even if you do opt for a higher temp (or have to), your safest bet would be a speed of 30-40. 50 might be too fast if your printer has a decent shake to it. I’d also recommend 15-20 for first layers if it’s a curved object or if the filament has bed adhesion problems.

I wouldn’t waste time working with cheap silk filaments. do some research on recommended brands and try out a few. the brand you prefer will ultimately depend on which ones your machine prefers. some brands have less diameter tolerance. i know matterhackers silk definitely has this issue and so do polymaker’s rainbow filaments.

I haven’t had to print with glue or tape in a long time. I use a default bed plate and haven’t had issues with bed adhesions since working out my z-offset. if your bed plate doesn’t have scratches or marks yet has bad adhesion issues, heat up the plate and clean it with alcohol. remove all the glue and tape marks. if it’s clean and your first layer still looks like shit, lower your z-offset. if you’re using cheap filaments, keep using the tape and glue. there’s only so much that machine can fix on its own.

if the silk prints with a ton of blobs on the surface and the filament is dry + you’re printing slow + your retraction is fine + the temperature is okay, your nozzle may be too low. first layers that contain solid surfaces are very good indicators of offset errors.

if your first layer contains a solid surface (like a filled in square or circle) and you can see line gaps in it, your nozzle is slightly too high. the surface should look smoothly filled in without gaps, bumps, or ripples. think of it like lines laying perfectly next to each other. if you see ripples or bubbles, either the filament is wet or your nozzle is too low. getting this first layer right is important for all filaments but a huge requirement for special filaments.

the same principle above applies to your brim. the lines of your brim shouldn’t contain huge gaps (not talking about the setting labeled “brim distance”) either because it defeats the purpose of it. for the best results, it should look like the lines are next to each other making a small flat surface. when you lift the brim, it should lift as one piece, not individual strands. if the lines are too far apart, your nozzle is probably too high.

the only gap that should be present if you’re using a brim is the brim distance itself: the distance from the actual print and the brim. I usually print with a distance of 0.4 for medium to large objects for personal preference. if the gap is too big, the brim isn’t doing much for the print. it might offer some adhesion benefits but not a lot. any benefits it may give might be better solved by checking if there’s something wrong with your other settings. you might want to try printing a skirt (good if you want to make sure the flow/adhesion is right) and saving yourself the material if a large brim distance is your preference.

edit: adding a few general ones

the area that connects to the supports will always look like shit compared to the rest of it if you're not using interfaces. the interface may leave a pattern behind once removed. printing something that needs supports in silks means you'll need to get better at working with supports if you don't want to sand the part. support z distance is typically twice the layer height you're using. density for tree supports is generally set at 0%. support interfaces are typically 70-100%.

you really don't need supports for everything. you can print a lot more without supports than you think. if a model doesn't contain floating parts or extreme overhangs, try printing without supports. the success of this will depend on things like your speed and cooling. printing curved areas slowly will help a lot when printing without supports. if you don't know how to edit your gcode to do this, you can manually change the speed when it's printing. you shouldn't need to print a raft. rafts are for fixing problems like the plate having scratches. it makes a surface for you to print on when the actual surface you're printing on has issues. if you have to print a raft but your build plate is fine, it means 1) your plate isn't leveled -> manually adjust or let the machine adjust it 2) your nozzle is too high -> adjust your z-offset/learn how to adjust your z-offset 3) filament needs to be dried -> even if it's brand new, dry it (do not stick it in your oven. you can make a makeshift dryer by placing the filament on the heated build plate with a box on top of it to keep the heat in.) 4) you're printing too fast -> try 15-20 instead 5) your build plate isn't cleaned -> heat the plate and clean with alcohol unless your build plate is fucked, printing a raft is a waste of material. it would be easier to figure out the reason you're needing a raft in the first place. if your part just finished printing and it isn't coming off the plate, let the plate cool down completely. usually parts that are stuck will snap off on their own when the heat dies down. if it's still stuck, you probably printed way too close to the building plate. use a plastic scraper to remove it while pulling on the part. depending on how stuck it is, it might take a while. don't brute force it too much or you might rip off part of the build plate with it.