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90s Vintage Dress Pattern

NOTES ON ACCESSIBILITY:

This pattern requires a back zipper. I am mostly able-bodied but I do have chronic back pain and I don’t have a huge range of shoulder flexibility. The back zip is a barrier to ease of use. If I am having a bad pain day, getting in and out of this garment would be very challenging.

This is the summer of flowy skirt/poofy sleeve dresses! I was initially inspired by The Sundaze Dress by  @les.perlines and @sarbernier on IG. I was really shook by @hopeineveryseam and @thalias__thread ‘s rendition of this design

I still want to buy this pattern, but I was definitely looking for a particular bust shape.  I found and purchased vintage McCall’s 7652 (printed 1995) because of the multiple panels around the bust and waist. 

Blackbird Fabric had a light rayon with the best name: Stippled Frond in Wisteria, Ivory, and Rust. I saw it a few months ago, but I had no project in mind for it. I have a rule that I won’t buy new fabric if I don’t already have a design in mind. When I purchased my vintage pattern, I knew the Stippled Fond was a perfect match. 🙂

Grading the pattern was a new challenge. The pattern is designed to be form-fitting, but it is not intended for stretch/knit fabrics. That means I had to be very precious in my measuring and cutting process so that I didn’t end up with anything too tight or too boxy. Woven fabric has no give or  negative ease, so I had to be careful.  I knew if I rushed this, I wouldn’t have a final product that I loved. It took real effort to practice patience and move slowly with this garment.

I graded between three sizes: size 20 bust to size 22 waist to size 18 hip.

The rayon by itself seemed too fragile - I am a person who has muscle and wears hard on my clothing. To strengthen the garment, I lined each panel with material from a thrifted bedsheet (according to the tag, it was 100% egyptian silk - I really hope it is!).

I wanted to wear the pattern as is, but I had to add a belt. I have boobs and a stomach and hips but due to the distribution of my *wonderful* body fat, I am almost a rectangle. As a result, the majority of the garment was pulling on the neckline, which is elastic. I was worried about the neckline stretching out and potentially exposing my boobs. For this reason I thrifted a belt to hold up some of the fabric. In the end, I think it turned out very cute and I’m not mad at it! 😂

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"Perfect" Pants Block Journey Update

Hello! 

I think around August last year I decided I was going to find and fit the “perfect” pants pattern. Why? Well, pants shopping has never been affirming for me. I have a bit of a lower belly and a swayback and my hips and stomach are several sizes apart. For that reason, I have found that leggings are usually the most comfortable option. BUT…

I think pants are really fun! I love the different silhouettes that pants can create. From super relaxed to ultra fit, pants look good and can help people explore their personal style. I wanted to look and feel good in pants in the silhouettes that I preferred and thus, I started my pants block journey. 

If you’re new to sewing, here's a definition of the term “block” from In The Folds online article entitled “Issue 55 - What is a pattern block?” : A pattern block is a foundation pattern that patternmakers use as a base or foundation when drafting patterns. 

In my words, it means a starting place for a garment I want to adjust/fit. For example, I am starting with a basic pant pattern and I will adjust it for my specific body measurements. In the future I won’t need to adjust the pattern and I will be able to make another pair in the exact style. If I want to change features such as length, pockets, or zippers I can easily do so because I know that the pattern will already fit my body. 

I know that was repeitive but hopefully someone who needs it one day can stumble across my blog and have their questions answered. :)

The pants pattern I used as my block was the Vintage 1950’s Pants Pattern sold by EnbonpointVintage on Etsy. It’s not just a pattern, it's a drafting system. The PDF print out comes with a miniature pattern piece and the ruler to grade it to a full-sized pattern piece. I did have to buy a yardstick to help me draw lines. 

Unfortunately it’s not as simple as it advertises. It’s not beginner friendly and I would say only take this one if you’ve already made a few pants or are ready to draft your own waistband and know how to install a zipper. There are no instructional steps for construction, it is assumed you will already know how to do that.

After adjusting this pattern for my stomach, hips, and back I was very satisfied with the result.

This is a high-waisted pants with pleats and side zip

The fabric I used here is some lovely Ankara print from The House Of Mami Wata. These pants brings me greats joy and I can't wait to find more ways to style them.

For my second pair, I adjusted the crotch rise and the back rise and slimmed down the legs a bit.

This version is high-waisted, lined with a light cotton, include a side zipper and pleats.

This fabric is a light, poplin type cotton from JanesDoesVintage on Etsy. It's a super cute pink and black houndstooth print.

Overall, I am feeling very happy with my pants! For my next step I'd like to try a heavier weight fabric like corduroy or twill.

Signing off for now,

Gabby

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Remants/Aja Barber's Book

Ah remnants. Those potentially pesky pieces of fabric left over after you’ve cut out a pattern. For those, like myself, who order way too much fabric because they are worried there will not be enough, it could mean up to an extra yard of fabric. 

A perfect example is my Cashmeretter Holyoke Dress that I made with this really cool large scale floral fabric from StyleMaker Fabrics. 

Photo of a mixed/black and white woman in the Cashmerette Patterns Holyoke dress

I was so worried that 3 and ½ yards would not be enough to make my dress. I ordered 4 yards because I like to play it safe. Once I finished cutting the pattern out I saw that there was a lot left! I wasn’t sure what to do at the time but I knew I didn’t want to throw it out. 

I never thought to consider remnants part of a fabric stash. What is a fabric stash? Sewists will know - it is the fabric waiting to be made into a lovely garment. Based on what I’ve seen on Instagram, it can be very comforting and personal to each individual sewist. It is a spectrum, some makers have tons, and some have little. 

I am not here to stash-shame! I have a small stash, but only if I count the yards of fabric I have not cut into. If I count my remnants, I realize I do have a considerable stash. I didn’t consider remnants part of my fabric stash until I read Aja Barber’s incredible book, Consumed: The Need for Collective Change: Colonialism, Climate Change, and Consumerism.

Cover art for Aja Barber's book, Consumed

Aja Barber’s book is a deep dive into sustainable clothing and making practices. It is not lost on her that indigenous folks had been doing this all along, as well as many marginalized black people and people of color. Cultures around the world had been using sustainable practices for generations before colonization and the exploitation of their precious resources.

 It was only recently that people started wearing clothing items only once or twice before considering them “old” and moving on to the next purchase. I know for a fact that my grandfather had one, well made suit that he wore to church every Sunday. Clothing is made for cheaper prices overseas through exploitative labor. The crux is that many folks in America find that cheaper clothing is the only option accessible to them. It’s a vicious cycle.

Aja Barber points out, for those that have the privilege, there is a choice to make. It’s not so much about buying the most ethical, well-made option. It’s about choosing to wear what one already owns and use what one already has. This made me change my view on the remnants in my stash. 

I am trying to stop viewing them as annoying pieces that I could just throw away some day. They have an impact on the planet and they are not something I can just schluff on to the next person. That could end up littering someone’s land one day and I am very uncomfortable about that. 

Mixed/black and white woman wearing a t shirt of remnant fabric, walking away

I recently grabbed all my remnants and put them on display. I think about what I can do with them. I have already made one shirt. To be honest, I don’t love the color blocking, BUT I do love the fact it won’t be taking up space in a landfill. I don’t love it now, but I’m going to try and wear it as long and as often as possible. 

Mixed, black/white woman turning to show detail on remnant shirt

I’m not going to be perfect at reusing, but that’s not the point. The point is to just make an effort and make deliberate decisions about fabric purchases in the future.

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Update on Fall Sewing Goals

Me, next to a giant pumpkin, at the Stillwater Autumn Fest

Fall might be my new favorite season! This year I am fully leaning into the pumpkin-spiced lattes, autumn outfits, and slower pace of life. My creativity tends to peak in the summer (thank you, sun!) and by October or November the ideas that were bursting to life in my brain are settling like falling leaves. In the past I didn't appreciate that, but as I get older I have realized that it's totally okay to not be on 100 all year round. Constantly creating takes a toll on my mental health and my budget.

In my last blog, I talked about goals for clothing/sewing projects that will last me a long a time. I don't want to be buying new fabric every month and making garments that I can't wear and love for years to come. So here is an update on the progress I've made concerning those goals.

Finding a pants pattern that I love

I tried to make the #PietraPants by #ClosetCorePatterns . I adjusted the pattern for my body, but this found that fit to be baggy and boxy. I am rectangle shaping, with my bust, waist, and hip measurements being within inches of each other, and I found that the wide leg Pietra Pants didn't accentuate my legs or butts in the way I wanted.

My next attempt is going to be a 50's style Cigarette Pant. I like the slimmer fit and it will hopefully display my assets more than a wide leg pant. I found a promising sewing pattern/instruction guide on how to make a cigarette pant based on personal measurements. I like it because I wanted a vintage pattern but couldn't find a lot available in my size.

Plus Size (or any size) Vintage 1950s Pants Pattern - PDF

The pattern is from Etsy and is described as such: "it's a drafting system...whether you want this garment for a doll or plus-size person you will be able to make this fit perfectly."

2. Learning to clean my wool sweaters.

I have made some progress here! I washed one camel-hair cardigan and one wool turtleneck. By hand washing the garments I hoped to preserve the shape of each one. The washing part was easy; the hard part was the drying. Both garments took almost four days to air dry; I tried to squeeze the water out of the sweater and I stretched it. The cardigan and sweater are still very wearable so I'd call this a success.

3. Billowing, pleated skirt

I haven't started this project yet, but I did realize that I can't just add pleats to a skirt that already has the waistband attached. My next step is to draft a skirt in a fabric I like and try making pleats!

4. Using fabric I already own

My aunt gifted me some really pretty fabric from South Africa earlier this year. I decided to use it to make a kaftan from my partner's birthday in July. It was only this week that I actually looked up a tutorial and cut the fabric. The kaftan looks nice, but he hasn't tried it on yet so we will see! I'm just glad to be tackling some of my stash and using what I have.

The pieces cut for a men's kaftan. This is before I attached the pieces together or cut out the neck hole.

I think I will do another blog post for this kaftan alone because the project has been super fun and surprisingly easy. Also, I want to share the finished look!

Signing off,

Gabriella

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Projects for Fall/Winter, Indefinitely

I echo the sentiment that sewing is magic; it's a super power. As a creative person, the planning aspect really appeals to me. I love rooting through potential patterns and pondering over which fabric would suit my style the best. Being able to take an idea from my brain and bring it into the physical world never gets old.

HOWEVER, as I pass the anniversary of buying my first sewing machine and beginning this journey (yeah!), I find myself overwhelmed. I am overwhelmed by the amount of patterns and fabric in the world and the rate at which I can produce a garment. I could buy a pattern, buy the fabric, and have a new pair of pants in mere weeks. This is not to brag, this is just to say that I am outpacing my budget and, more importantly, my actual need for clothing.

I consider myself somewhat of a minimalist, in the fact that I try to reduce consumption and reuse or repurpose what I have. As much as I desire to create new clothing, I equally desire practicing habits that protect the planet (i.e., being content with the items I already own). So how do I enjoy sewing while also honoring my desire to consume less and create less waste?

I have spotted several resources that start to answer this question. Fibr & Cloth Studio created and ran by Alexis Bailey, a black woman, is a great place to start. She is dedicated to slower making and sustainability. In her recent newsletter, Alexis shared how hand stitching can be grounding.

An infographic from the Fibr & Cloth Studio newsletter, detailing ways in which hand stitching can be grounding.

Brooke Bowlin, of @secondhand.sustainability on Instagram, has a collection of resources as well. One of her recent posts was very helpful for me. It talked about how every sustainable solution has a trade off. Here is part of what she shares:

"Embracing trade-offs also creates perspective that sustainability will look different for everyone based on the needs, choices, and access that we have."

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With that I will share sewing and clothing-related projects I am starting this fall. The goal is to create/acquire pieces that are well made and that can be worn for years to come, regardless the trends.

Camel-hair, cable knit turtleneck that was previously owned

I thrifted a camel-hair turtleneck. I've heard the natural fibers are "more sustainable" but BOY is this thing itchy! My goals for this item are (1) learn how to properly clean it and (2) make a long-sleeve shirt to go under it.

A tan half-circle skirt with neutral tulle.

This was a learning project. I wanted to make a half-circle skirt with billowing tulle. I don't wear it as is. My goal for this item is to remove the tulle and (fingers crossed) add pleats. I saw the following photo on pinterest that inspired that idea. Update: Yray Ideh post on styling a pleated skirt

A woman smiling in a blue, pleated, shin-length skirt and cream cardigan.

Finally I thrifted a pair of ready-to-wear pants. They are too big and I want to either alter them to fit or find a nice belt to hold them up :)

Thrifted, pre-owned black Calvin Klein women's trousers

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Social Media Break and Just Going For It

I have been super crazy busy lately - working a regular job and an internship for a bridal shop - and it has taken its toll on my mental health. I have tried to hustle in the past (spoiler alert: it didn't work then) so these past two months were another trial to see if I could make it. I did not. I've learned over time that my best bet for keeping my mental health in check is a balance of work, ample rest, and time to cook food at home and see loved ones. It's my "magic formula".

I ended up working so much that I got very sick with COVID-19 and boy did it suck! It was around the time I was starting to feel ill that I decided to uninstall Instagram and take a break from the socials. Honestly, it made work more boring, but I don't feel like I missed out at all. The first week was spent recuperating so it was almost better to not doom-scroll while stuck in bed. After seven days of sleeping and watching TV, I was able to do some deep cleaning and even some drawing.

Okay, enough of my old-lady life updates. :)

Here's what I did for sewing:

I saw the Simplicity 9325 pattern a couple months ago. It's been discontinued for year but I was able to buy a copy from a seller on Etsy. What drew me to the pattern was the unique square neckline and the fluttery sleeves. I am a sucker for a fun summer dress!

Cover of Simplicity Pattern 9325

I was worried that the pattern was a little too dated and would not compliment me. Based on a sketch I made, I decided to just trust my gut and find a matching a fabric.

My vision for this dress; a sketch detailing me in a version of Simplicity 9325 made in a black floral fabric

As you can see from the sketch I shortened the skirt. This would give the dress a more modern look. The fabric I choose to use was an estate sale find from this shop on Etsy: LaceInTime

Black floral fabric

I was not confident when I cut into the fabric! To comfort myself I referred to the process as a dive into "experimental fashion". By now you should be able to see that I am an overthinker and a worrywart. When the hems and last raw seams were stitched up, I was surprised and overjoyed at the results.

A mixed, black/white cisgender woman wearing a black floral version of Simplicity 9325

C'mon I look like a freakin' rockstar! I was definitely channeling some "ROCKSTAR 101" by Rihanna vibes.

Overall all, this project is a 10/10 for me. Trusting my gut worked and I will be doing that more!

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Repurposing and Reusing

When I started sewing I thought it was the "sustainable" thing to do, as far as clothing consumption. Clearly, this assumption came with privilege and access to funds not everyone has. After doing research, I realized that while Americans consume more than we need on average, not everyone has access to "ethical" clothing choices and that not everything labeled as "ethical" is better for the planet. So far I've come to the conclusion that clothing consumption is a very personal decision, based on one's geographical location, socioeconomic status, and exposure to self-affirming media.

Anti-blackness in American culture also tells us that what we are is not enough. Product placement says, "Here - you're not enough, but maybe you could feel enough with this drink, this chain, this suit, etc". I am privileged as a cisgender, light-skin woman with straight/wavy hair and a body size that is closer to straight size; I am more likely to see myself represented in media and be affirmed that my identity is enough. If I am more likely to see myself affirmed in media, I am more likely to spend less on products to "fix" myself. This is the way racism and anti-blackness has manifested itself into a capitalistic society.

This is the thought process I have and I am learning more and more everyday. My ideas are subject to change and I am open to other ideas, opinions, and facts.

This is a self-drafted shirt I made from a dress that was gifted to my sister. She did not want it so I chopped it up. I like it but the fabric wasn't my favorite texture or weight. I think it makes a cute house shirt.

The before: the waist is too long on me and there is a lot of extra fabric at the sides.

I shortened the waist and add darts around the bust to remove extra fabric.

Picture above is a thrifted dress, altered to fit my body.

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Custom Forrest green strapless hi-low gown with detachable over skirt  & custom rhinestones 

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