#bin aeration pads

[h3artstain]

A list of (realistic) things you can do to be more environmentally friendly

(from an earth-loving horticulture student.)

— COSMETICS

Use bar soap instead of soap bottles

Use old toothbrushes for cleaning surfaces

Try exploring and researching some homemade face/body/lip products

Use ice sleeves, sunglasses, and caps instead of sunscreen (Edit: I’ve seen people say that it is safer and even necessary to wear sunscreen at all times so try to use eco friendly sunscreen instead! In my country it’s pretty uncommon to wear sunscreen often as we usually wear ice sleeves which is why I did not know this oof)

Use coffee grinds or homemade tumeric masks instead of cosmetic products with exfoliator beads

Invest in a metal ear cleanser instead of cotton buds

Try placing more importance on skincare instead of contributing to exploitative beauty companies by buying makeup

Use cosmetic products that do not contain palm oil

— CLOTHING

Try as much as possible to rewear your outfits at least twice before washing them

Actually WEAR your clothes! I know some of y’all just wear them once for your Instagram post and let it rot in your closet forever. Stop doing that!

Thrift, stitch up holes in your clothes, and use second hand clothing instead of supporting fast fashion companies like SHEIN, H&M, Zara, etc.

Cut up your old clothing into yarn and do macramè with it

Cut patches of old clothing to turn into reusable cotton pads

Learn how to knit, crochet or stitch your clothes!

If you use tampons, try menstrual cups or discs instead. If you use pads, try reusable pads or period underwear. (Trust me, it works). Also, use reusable panty liners instead of disposable ones. They may seem expensive but you will end up saving a lot more in the long run

— GARDENING

Plant seeds/cuttings in your old bottles, jars, and containers

Propagate your plants and exchange cuttings with your friends instead of buying new plants

Make your own soil mixes instead of buying soil mixes

Better yet, don’t use soil for your indoor plants and try getting into hydroponics or semihydroponics instead. This saves so much water and doesn’t contribute to mining of soil

Fertilise plants with fruit peels, coffee grinds, and tea leaves. (DO NOT use chemical fertiliser on soil)

Plant more legume plants in your garden instead of using nitrogen fertilisers. (Look up the nitrogen cycle if you need an explanation on this)

Avoid pesticides unless really needed. Try sprinkling cinnamon powder on soil or spraying neem oil on plants and soil to keep away pests.

If you have a lawn, try looking into rain gardens and consider making one

Let the (non invasive) weeds in your lawn/garden grow! They are there for a reason!

Stop killing earthworms and millipedes in your garden. This also applies to snails native to your region. They are there for a reason.

Water used to wash fruits and rice can be used to water plants

— REDUCE, REUSE

Use the caps of jars as soap holders

Use recycled paper/notebooks

Wash and dry your glass/plastic items before throwing them in the recycling bin

Keep any plastic bags for future use

Use eco friendly or reusable dish sponges

Use reusable straws and cups

Invest in a fabric cup holder

Bring a water bottle with you wherever you go

Drink more water and less sugary drinks

Bring reusable bags for buying groceries instead of using plastic ones

Always keep a folded up tote/shopping bag with you in case you spontaneously decide to buy something

— ELECTRICITY

Set a timer on your air conditioning instead of letting it run throughout the night

Better yet, use a fan instead of an air conditioner

Open your windows! Aerate your home!

Allow natural light to enter your home during the daytime, so as to avoid turning on your lights

Switch to LED lightbulbs instead of regular lightbulbs

Turn off any switches in your house when they are not in use

Collect the water from your air conditioner/dehumidifier condenser and use that to water plants, clean surfaces, steam ironing, and flushing toilets. Do not drink it though!

— INTERNET

Delete your all of your unwanted emails

Delete your inactive social media accounts

Try not to post excessively on social media and stop scrolling excessively too. This not only reduces energy usage but also improves your mental health and productivity

Try to keep to one social media app instead of having so many

Reduce your internet usage

Save your eBooks on a thumbdrive instead of on cloud

Use Ecosia instead of Google

Stop being influenced by social media trends that only just contribute to consumerism

Download music instead of streaming

Reduce online shopping

— FOOD

Reduce intake of processed foods

Reduce intake of fish, beef, and dairy

Try eating vegan or vegetarian foods at least once or twice a week

Cook your own meals instead of eating out

Bring your own food containers when taking away food from stores

Beeswax wrap instead of cling wrap!

Buy loose-leaf tea or plastic free tea bags instead of regular tea bags

Eat more mushrooms, vegetables, and fruits and drink more water

Support local farmers

And finally, educate yourself more about ecology and the environment!

[premiumcleaningau]

Uncovering Hidden Dirt: Areas Often Missed During Deep House Cleaning

When it comes to cleaning our homes, we often have our routines and go-to spots that get the most attention. However, there are hidden nooks and crannies that can accumulate dirt and grime over time, easily escaping our regular cleaning sessions. A deep house cleaning aims to tackle these often missed areas, ensuring a truly fresh and sparkling home. Here's a comprehensive guide to what should be included in a thorough deep clean:

What Is Included In Deep Cleaning:

1. Ceiling Fans and Light Fixtures

   Begin your deep clean by looking up. Ceiling fans and light fixtures are notorious dust magnets. Use a sturdy stepladder and a microfiber cloth or a duster with an extendable handle to wipe away the layers of dust that accumulate.

2. Corners and Cobwebs

   Over time, cobwebs can form in the corners of rooms, especially in those harder-to-reach places. Take a broom or a vacuum with an extension wand to clear out these hidden cobwebs.

3. Baseboards and Moulding

   Baseboards and moulding are often overlooked during regular cleanings. Use a damp cloth and a mild cleaner to wipe down these surfaces, removing any built-up dust and grime.

4. Vents and Air Ducts

   Dust and debris can accumulate in air vents and ducts, impacting air quality. Remove vent covers and vacuum inside the ducts. You may also consider hiring a professional duct cleaning service for a more thorough job.

5. Behind and Under Furniture

   Slide furniture away from walls to clean behind and underneath. This is where dust bunnies love to hide. Vacuum these areas thoroughly, and if possible, use a furniture attachment to clean the upholstery and crevices.

6. Window Tracks and Sills

   Window tracks can collect dirt and grime, especially in areas prone to moisture. Use a vacuum with a brush attachment to remove loose dirt, then follow up with a warm, soapy cloth to scrub away stubborn residue.

 7. Kitchen Appliances

   Don't forget to clean behind and beneath kitchen appliances like the refrigerator, stove, and dishwasher. These spaces can accumulate crumbs, grease, and dust over time.

 8. Inside Cabinets and Drawers

   Take everything out of your cabinets and drawers, wiping down both the interiors and exteriors. This is a great opportunity to declutter and reorganise as well.

 9. Light Switches and Door Handles

   These high-touch areas can harbour germs and bacteria. Wipe them down with a disinfectant to keep your home healthy and clean.

 10. Shower heads and Faucets

   Mineral deposits can build up on shower heads and faucets, affecting water pressure. Remove shower heads and soak them in vinegar to dissolve these deposits. Use a toothbrush or scrubbing pad to clean faucet aerators.

 11. Bedding and Mattresses

   Wash all bedding, including sheets, pillowcases, and duvet covers. Vacuum and rotate mattresses to ensure even wear and remove any dust mites.

 12. Trash Bins

   Empty and clean out all trash bins, including those in the kitchen, bathrooms, and bedrooms. Use a disinfectant to kill any lingering odours or germs.

 13. Pet Areas

   If you have furry friends, their favourite spots can be a breeding ground for dirt and hair. Vacuum pet beds, wash toys, and clean food and water bowls thoroughly.

 14. Behind Toilets and Radiators

   These areas are often forgotten but can collect dust and grime. Use a long-handled brush or vacuum attachment to reach behind toilets and radiators.

 15. Garage and Outdoor Spaces

   If applicable, don't neglect the garage or outdoor areas. Sweep out debris, organise tools and equipment, and give outdoor furniture a good cleaning.

Cover All the Areas Of the House with Deep Cleaning!

A deep house cleaning is a comprehensive reset for your living space, targeting the hidden dirt and grime that accumulate over time. While it may take more time and effort than your regular cleaning routine, the results are well worth it—a truly fresh, healthy, and sparkling home for you and your loved ones to enjoy.

[dominionproperties]

Sustainable Apartment Living: 5 Practical Ideas to Go Green(er)

Sustainable apartment living doesn’t have to be challenging. With a sprinkle of innovation, a dash of enthusiasm and a heap of conscious choices, you can transform your apartment into a green paradise. Get ready to reduce waste, breathe cleaner air and embark on a journey of eco-friendly living that rewards you every step of the way.

1. Aim for less waste

Invest in a stainless steel water bottle, reusable grocery bags, cloth napkins and beeswax wraps (instead of plastic wrap). Opt for a travel mug for your daily caffeine fix and a bamboo cutlery set for takeout meals.

Minimize packaging waste by buying bulk pantry staples like grains, legumes and spices. Use shampoo bars versus bottles, refillable soap dispensers and reusable cotton pads.

2. Compost scraps

Who says you need a backyard to compost? Start an indoor composting bin for your kitchen scraps. You can find small, odor-sealed bins specifically designed for apartments.

Mix kitchen scraps with dry materials like shredded newspaper or cardboard to maintain proper moisture levels and aeration. In a few months, you’ll have nutrient-rich compost to grow strong and healthy plants!

3. Recycle even more

The key to knowing how to live green in an apartment is to make recycling a daily habit. Familiarize yourself with local recycling guidelines as different areas have varying rules on what can and can’t be recycled. Take it a step further by separating your recyclables like a pro. Create a designated recycling station with labeled bins for paper, glass, plastic and aluminum.

4. Get a(nother) plant

Breathe easy with top-notch indoor air quality. Invest in air-purifying plants like snake plants, spider plants and peace lilies to keep your air fresh and clean. They naturally filter out pollutants and enhance oxygen levels. It’s like having a little green army fight pollutants on your behalf.

5. Reuse household items

Turn your apartment into a treasure trove of creativity. Reuse and repurpose old furniture, clothes and household items. That broken wooden chair? Transform it into a charming nightstand. Cracked plates? Craft them into mosaic masterpieces. Old T-shirts you never wear? Sew them into a quilt.

Kickstart sustainable apartment living

Knowing how to live green in an apartment starts with habits like composting and repurposing. Cheers to more sustainable apartment living!

[plumbingdaytonaweb91-blog]

What The Oxford English Dictionary Doesn't Tell You About Daytona Beach Plumbing

Let start with your faucet, always examine for leaks and drips . Did you know that as much as hundred plus gallons of water a day can be wasted due to a leakage! The water supply enters your home under pressure, there be a water tight seal keeping back the incoming water when the faucet deal with remains in the OFF position. That seal is usually produced by a washer pressed against the faucet seat. When the washer or the seat is not working correctly, a little water can drip out of the faucet spout. To stop the drip, all you require to do is replace the washer or repair the seat. Go visit our pal YouTube to enjoy basic video on how to replace the washer or how to repair the seat of your faucet. We use them a number of times a day that's why they are easily broken so better discover how to repair it. It is easy anyway.

Another plumbing idea is to keep your faucet aerator tidy. It is typically discovered at the suggestion of modern indoor waterfaucets. Without an aerator, water usually streams out of a faucet as one huge stream. An aerator spreads this stream into numerous little droplets. This assists in saving water and reduce splashing. Faucet aerators are often used in houses with low water pressure in order to increase the viewed water pressure. Keep these screens tidy to promote proper functioning.

Check likewise leakages that can be under the sink. Constantly inspect the pipelines below.

To see if there is an internal leakage on your toilets, (I came across this on other plumbing tips post which is pretty creative) put food coloring in the tank and check the toilet bowl later on, if the bowl water is colored, it means that there is a leak from the tank. This might suggest you need to change the tank ball or flapper.

Since it can trigger overflows and backups , do not neglect when you see a slow flushing of your toilet. The normal causes are obstructions, sediment accumulation, or breakdowns with equipment in the tank. Conduct regular look at your toilet to detect the problem.

Never flush hygienic items like sanitary pads, infant wipes, or extremely thick toilet paper down the toilet. These can broaden or get captured on corroding pipelines and trigger blockages.

Do not use liquid cleaning materials suggested to clear obstructions. These cleaners can damage pipelines. Rather, try using a plumbing snake or plunger.

Utilize strainers to catch hair in showers and tubs .

Never ever put fat, grease, or cooking oils down the drain. These fats strengthen in cold pipes and trigger obstructions. To dispose this appropriately, put it in a container and leave it on your counter up until it solidifies. Dispose of it in your compost bin ready for collection.

Obstructions are one of the most typical house owner issues. They are not only an inconvenience, but can likewise lead to overflows and water damage so keep your drains pipes clog-free.

The water supply enters your home under pressure, there be a water tight seal holding back the inbound water when the faucet manage is in the OFF position. When the washer or the seat is not functioning effectively, a little water can drip out of the faucet spout. Go visit our friend YouTube to enjoy easy video on how to change the washer or how to repair the seat of your faucet. Without an aerator, water Discover more typically streams out of a faucet as one big stream. Faucet aerators are often utilized in homes with low water pressure in order to increase the viewed water pressure.

[lawncareallamericanturfbeauty]

Everything You Wanted to Know About the Composting Toilet Flushing dozens of gallons of water down your toilets every day can make you think twice about how much you spend on your water bill each month, how much water you are actually using, and how much you may be wasting. If you have ever worried about these things, a composting toilet may be a possible solution. Keep reading to learn about all the different aspects of composting toilets and how they work. What is a composting toilet? A composting toilet is typically a waterless system that uses decomposition and evaporation to recycle human waste. These toilets compost waste and toilet paper while also remaining odorless. They can be good options for reducing water waste and for off the grid or tiny homes. What types of composting toilets are available? Composting toilets usually fall into two different categories: a self-contained composting unit and a central composting toilet system. Self-contained composting toilets can be directly installed and have the composting system housed inside of the toilet. The composting chamber in this case can be found and emptied directly beneath the toilet. A central composting toilet system has two parts. The first is the toilet itself, and the second is a composting chamber that is located in the basement or outside of the building. These systems usually have larger composting capacities. Another benefit to a central composting toilet system is that these toilets usually look more like a traditional septic/sewer system toilet and can ease peoples’ anxiety over aesthetics of toilets that are less appealing. How does a composting toilet work? A composting toilet works by centering around the main action of separating liquids from solids. These different forms of waste are moved to different chambers to either a location somewhere in the basement or outside. Liquid waste (urine) moves into an evaporating chamber. This evaporating chamber contains various aerobic organisms such as bacteria, fungi, compost worms, or other tiny insects. These organisms help enrich the urine with nitrogen which allows it to evaporate faster. This nitrogen enriched liquid can then be used as fertilizer for crops or plants. Solid waste is moved into a chamber separate from the liquid chamber. This chamber also holds aerobic organisms similar to those in the liquid waste chamber. However, a small amount of carbon material must also be placed in this chamber. The absorbent material helps the solid waste break down more quickly and effectively into dry compost material. Examples of these materials include wood chips, ash straw, or sawdust. The most important conditions to monitor in composting toilets are oxygen levels, aeration, temperature, carbon materials, and aerobic organisms. All of these components must be working actively in order to ensure that waste is broken down. What are components of a composting toilet? Composting toilets have several different components: the toilet unit and the collection unit which is made up of two different chambers (composting chamber and aeration unit). Toilet: This is the unit that is familiar to everyone because it resembles the toilet seat that you would find regularly. The main purpose this serves is as a comfortable seat for you to position yourself and excrete waste from your body. Collection Unit: This is where the waste breakdown and evaporation processes take place. Composting Chamber: This chamber stores the waste so that it can decompose properly. It is usually designed so that liquid and solid waste are easily separated. Aeration Unit: This unit maximizes efficient decomposition of solid and liquid waste. It is designed to maintain the oxygen, aeration, and temperature levels. How does moisture affect a composting toilet? Because too much moisture in the waste can drown the oxygen-breathing aerobic bacteria, composting toilets come equipped with urine diverting mechanisms. Too much moisture can create a gap in the decomposition process and prevent waste from being broken down as quickly and efficiently as usual. What helps keep the carbon-nitrogen balance in a composting toilet? Composting toilets must maintain a healthy balance of nitrogen and carbon to keep the bacteria thriving. Making sure to empty the nitrogen rich liquid waste will ensure this balance. In addition, carbon material can be added to offset the balance. This includes material like sawdust, peat, or coconut fiber. What temperature should the composting toilet be kept at? Composting aerobic bacteria stops working when the weather becomes too cold. It is recommended that the ideal temperature range for a composting toilet to work efficiently is between 60 and 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Some composting toilets come with additional features like thermostats and sensors that help the owner keep track of the composting toilet’s conditions. How do I use a composting toilet? Composting toilets can be used like a regular toilet. With solid waste, be sure to turn the handle at the base to “flush” any solid excrement. If the bowl gets dirty, you can use a vinegar and water mixture spray to help keep it clean. Other than that, it just requires emptying whenever it is full. Do composting toilets smell bad? Surprisingly, composting toilets smell less than regular toilets. This is because the separation of liquid and solid wastes prevents the sewer smell that can occur with water flush toilets. Composting toilets can have built-in fans that create a vacuum to carry out bad odors and are created with specifications of an enclosed containment system, meaning the only smell you should notice is fresh dirt and not waste smells. Additionally, carbon materials that you add to your composting toilet like sawdust or peat encourage aerobic bacteria breakdown of waste into odorless compounds. Do you have to empty a composting toilet? Yes! Composting toilets must be emptied when they are full. The frequency can vary depending on household size and usage, as well as the type of composting toilet that you have. A self-contained composting toilet, for example, needs to be emptied whenever the liquid or solid container is full. A traditional house with central compost systems needs their chambers emptied less often. A house of 3-4 persons with typical usage might not have to empty out their composting chamber until after about a year of use. In warmer weather some people will empty their chambers after the winter to ensure that waste is completely decomposed. How do you empty a composting toilet? It is suggested that people empty their liquid chambers before they are completely full. For a 2 gallon tank, this can mean emptying every 3-4 days depending on frequency of usage. All you need to do to empty the liquid chamber is to remove the liquid tank, cap it, and dispose of the liquid. When it comes to solids, you can judge when to empty by how difficult it is to turn the base handle. You can also tell when it is time to dump the solid waste compost when it looks and smells like dirt. A good tip is to wait eight hours after your last bathroom visit before emptying the solid waste chamber. This allows the decomposition process some time to occur before emptying. Solid waste chamber changes are quick, easy, and painless. Ensure the liquid tank is capped so nothing spills. Unplug any cords and take the toilet outside. Remove the lid and cover the toilet base with a trash bag. After you are done emptying, you can place the toilet back in place. Any leftover waste still clinging to the sides will help begin the next round of composting. To summarize, here is how to empty your composting toilet: Wait 8 hours after your last use of the toilet before emptying. Make sure the liquid tank is capped so that it doesn’t spill. Unplug the cords and take it outside. Remove the lid and cover the toilet base with a trash bag. After you are done, return the toilet to its spot. Is it okay to have maggots in my compost? Maggots will not hurt compost, but they can be a signal that there is something off about your materials. Not to mention, maggots can be annoying pests. Compost does not produce flies, so ensure that any holes are covered and the lid is kept closed to prevent flies from getting to the compost and laying eggs. You can also try adding more brown material to create a dryer environment. Maggots in compost will eventually die and decompose. Those that do not can be removed with a thorough cleaning or with the use of neem oil. In the meantime, don’t worry, as they can be helpful in speeding up decomposition processes. Where does toilet paper go in a composting toilet? Toilet paper can be thrown into composting toilets just as it is tossed into water flush toilets. Since paper products decompose at a slower rate than solid wastes, you will still see pieces of toilet paper in any compost you are emptying. This is okay. Just remember not to throw diapers, wipes, or tampons and pads into the composting toilet. Can composting toilets be used in the cold? Decomposition processes slow down significantly in colder climates. This does not mean that composting toilets are not an option. In cases of cold weather, a hot compost bin outside can resolve this problem. In addition, many composting toilets can be heated or insulated to keep the decomposition process active. Is a composting toilet worth it? Composting toilets are worth it if you are after a few of these advantages: Reducing dependence on traditional plumbing Reducing wastewater use Reducing impact on environment Creating compost for plants Solution for settings where septic systems aren’t available or when plumbing is not available Solution for when water is scarce Save money What are disadvantages to a composting toilet? Most people are turned off to the idea of composting toilets because of their appearance. They are not always the most aesthetically pleasing. Fortunately, this problem can be solved by choosing designs that are more similar to the appearance of traditional toilets. Other than appearance, a few disadvantages include: The need to manually remove the waste whenever toilet is full Smaller systems have limited capacity Composting systems that are not installed well can produce an odor For the most part, however, most people do not find too many large issues when it comes to using a composting toilet. How much does it cost to install a composting toilet? Costs of composting toilets vary depending on installation and the toilet itself. This can range for $50 for a do-it-yourself installation to the thousands for advanced composting toilets with special features or for commercial composting toilets. Added features that can incur higher costs include electric options, heating elements, or sensors. For do-it-yourself installations, there are many resources online for those interested in building their own composting toilet. Keep in mind you will need to have a personal, outdoor composting bin ready to go before installing the toilet. What are some considerations I should keep in mind when considering a composting toilet? Composting toilets can be advantageous to many depending on personal lifestyle and geographic location. Before making any final decisions, make sure to consider the number of people that this toilet needs to support, costs of maintenance, and energy and ventilation needs your composting system might have. Do you need to have a septic system when you have a composting toilet? Composting toilets do not need to be connected to a septic system or sewer system. This is why composting toilets are ideal for those that are off grid or in areas where septic systems are not available. Common usages of composting toilets are in national parks, remote homes, or rural areas in developing countries specifically for the convenience it provides in not needing a septic system. Are composting toilets illegal? Make sure to contact your local health department and check with them about local and state regulations regarding composting toilets before installing one. Some states require composting toilets to be certified and have specific guidelines for building composting toilets. Many times, people can have composting toilets in their homes as long as the following conditions are met: There is one toilet connected to a septic system The toilet doesn’t transport their waste across lines The toilet is not a nuisance to neighbors or community as a whole. Ready to invest in a greener future today? A composting toilet may just be for you! The post Composting Toilets – Benefits & Knowledge | Planet Natural appeared first on Planet Natural. from Planet Natural https://www.planetnatural.com/composting-toilets/ via IFTTT

https://allamericanturfbeauty.wordpress.com/2020/09/01/composting-toilets-benefits-knowledge-planet-natural/

[bestgardeningtoolsshop-blog]

GARDENING

Whether you’re planting a container garden or getting a vegetable plot in shape, you need the right tools to till, weed, trim, and water. Our experts have dug in to find the best gear—from a low-maintenance composter to a hassle-free hose—that’ll keep your green space beautifully in bloom.

Clearing Tools These may look like Klingon weapons from an episode of Star Trek, but they're actually versatile garden tools designed for trimming shoots and stems, cutting vines, severing roots and sawing branches. If you've got an overgrown garden—or one filled with coarse ornamental grasses needing to be cut back—try a 13- or 18-in. billhook saw, which has a rust-resistant, curved blade for quick pull cuts and a coarse saw edge for removing tough branches and grasses. Available from Fiskars and local retailers. Image courtesy of Fiskars

Digging Shovel

Digging Shovel A rounded-blade digging shovel is indispensable if you're planting anything larger than your fist. Shovels have come a long way ergonomically, and this one is a good example. The D-shaped handle helps gives you two-handed control when digging up and tossing heavy loads of soil. The welded steel construction is more durable than wood and won't flex under a heavy load as fiberglass would. Meanwhile, the large step plate is wide enough to relieve pressure on your foot when stepping on it repeatedly. Available from Fiskars and local retailers.

Image courtesy of Fiskars.

Edging Spade

Edging Spade A flat-blade edging spade is a handy friend to have around the garden. It can edge a garden, slice turf neatly, cut roots, or scrape soil or mulch off of a flat surface such as sidewalk or truck bed. You can also use it for general planting or when you're 'heeling in' bare-root plants (putting them in the ground temporarily until a permanent location is found). Like the digging shovel, the D-handle design offers better control. The rubber foot pad reduces fatigue and shoe damage and can fit on either side of the shovel with pre-drilled holes. Available from Corona Tools and local retailers.

Image courtesy of Corona Tools

Loppers

Loppers When you're cutting branches the size of your finger or bigger, bring out the loppers, which offer larger blades than pruners and more leverage as well. These PowerGear loppers can easily cut branches with a diameter of up to 1-1/2 in. The gear technology increases leverage to give you up to three times more cutting power than standard loppers. Available in various sizes, from 18 to 25 in., from Fiskars and local retailers.

Image courtesy of Fiskars.

Pruners

Pruners Pruners are the go-to tool when you're deadheading flowers or cutting pliable stems or small woody twigs. Bypass pruners (shown) are a good general-purpose tool for trimming stems of up to about 1/2 in. Ratchet pruners multiply the ratchet action to cut up to 3/4-in. stems. Any bigger and you risk the chance of breaking the pruners. Available from Corona Tools and local retailers.

Image courtesy of Corona Tools.

Pruning Saw

Pruning Saw Pruning saws are a good all-purpose saw for the garden. Many fold up for safe transport and storage. And all are more adept at working in tight spaces than the larger and more cumbersome bow saws. The razor-tooth blade easily cuts through woody stems the size of an arm. Available from Corona Tools and local retailers.

Image courtesy of Corona Tools

Hori Hori Digging Tool

Hori Hori Digging Tool This multipurpose gardening tool is more than a trowel. It's also a knife, saw and even a measuring device for planting bulbs. Use it for planting, weeding, cutting sod, severing roots and dividing perennials. It even comes with its own holster to protect the stainless steel blade. Available from Wildflower Seed & Tool Company.

Image courtesy of Luke Miller

Garden Rake

Garden Rake A garden rake usually gets its workout in the spring when you're cultivating and prepping the soil in your vegetable garden. But it excels at other tasks, too, such as leveling mulch, scratching hard-packed soil to make it more porous or leveling soil before seeding a lawn. You can even use it to remove thatch or moss from your lawn. Available from TruTemper and local retailers.

Image courtesy of True Temper

Leaf Rake

Leaf Rake While its primary purpose is gathering leaves, a leaf rake is also handy for collecting other garden debris (like grass clippings that accumulate when you've waited too long between cuts!). Durable steel-tine rakes are great for smaller yards or when you want to scratch the soil surface while raking. If you're dealing with a large yard, a poly leaf rake covers more territory in less time. This poly rake features a 24-in. clog-free head that won't spear leaves. Available from True Temper and local retailers.

Image courtesy of True Temper

Hose and Sprayer

Hose and Sprayer There's simply nothing more convenient than a hose for watering. Hoses come in a variety of materials (vinyl, rubber), lengths (usually 25, 50, 75 ft.) and even colors (traditionally green or black, now a rainbow of choices). This heavy-duty rubber hose will hold up for years, especially if stored under cover in cold climates. Although you can always rely on your thumb, the spray attachment gives you more options (for instance, a soft stream of water for watering newly seeded areas or a hard blast for cleaning mud off of tools).

Image courtesy of Luke Miller

Digging Fork

Digging Fork A digging fork, sometimes called garden or spade fork, is handy for loosening compacted soil, aerating small areas, incorporating compost into garden beds and dividing perennials. The D handle makes the digging fork easier to use in tight spaces, while the tapered tines penetrate the soil more easily. Available from Corona Tools and local retailers.

Image courtesy of Corona Tools

Wheelbarrow

Wheelbarrow There's nothing like a wheelbarrow for making things easier for the gardener. You can carry soil, compost, firewood and more. Or use it to transport your tools around the yard or soak plant roots before planting. If you're working with heavy loads, get a steel bin rather than poly. Two-wheel models are the most stable for heavy loads. A standard wheelbarrow is appropriate for most uses, but do yourself a favor and get a never-flat tire. Available from True Temper and local retailers.

[engineercity]

Новости сайта #ENGINEERING - 工程

New Post has been published on http://engineer.city/errant-feeder-operation-and-possible-solutions/

Errant feeder operation and possible solutions

Terry Stemler summarises the most common problems with feeders and provide ways to potentially solve the problems, or at least alleviate them

It is quite common to encounter flow problems in various types of equipment for feeding dry solids.  These problems can be constant and unpredictable, and so they can also be costly.

As an example, if a no flow condition occurs on a feeder, the following action has to take place.

Someone has to recognise that the no flow condition has occurred. This could be acknowledging an alarm on an automation system, or recognising that the scale is not gaining weight or the product doesn’t look right.

The person then has to take corrective action. This may require someone to pound on the hopper supplying the material, restart the feeder, or poke the bin with a stick or pole to investigate. Then, they must also restart the process.

This may only take a few minutes, but if it happens several times a shift, over the course of a year it can really add up to some lost production.

For example, if this takes five minutes and happens once a shift on a three shift operation running 250 days a year , then that is 62.5 hours a year of lost production.

If it happens once an hour, then that means 500 hours of lost production.

Obviously, it is better to be proactive and address the problem rather than fighting an ongoing battle with problematic ingredients.

Prevention

I would first like to stress the importance of working with the ingredient supplier and feeder supplier to evaluate and test the material in order to select the correct type and size of feeder.

Quite often, the supplier or manufacturer of the ingredient can draw on their own experience in handling the material and the experience of the numerous other manufacturers that are using the material.

They can almost always make recommendations on the best type of system for metering the product.  It is to their advantage if you are comfortable with the ingredient that they are supplying and you are using it at the correct addition levels.

The same holds true for the feeder supplier. Chances are they have seen your ingredient before, or at least one that is similar.  Most are happy to do testing because it is to their advantage if the feeder operates in a trouble free fashion.

It is important that you supply the feeder manufacturer with as much information as possible about the ingredient.  In addition to the usual parameters such as bulk density, flow rate, inclusion amounts, corrosive nature of the product, and product particle size, this should also include the environment where the ingredient is being dispensed.

It may not do much good to test the product in a lab at 70F with a humidity of 20%, if the product is going to be added to a process in a wet environment at 120˚F. After testing has been completed your supplier should be able to recommend the right hopper and feeder for your application.

There are a couple of quick tests that you can try with the material that will give you an idea of how well it flows. This can help you decide how it will behave inside a feeder. If the product is dropped out of a funnel on to a flat surface, the angle of the pile measured from the middle of the pile is the angle of repose.

If the angle is flat then the product will have a tendency to flush or flood, if the angle is steep, then the product may need to have flow aids put in place to enhance the flow.

You can also try squeezing a sample of the product in your hand.  If the product has a tendency to flow out of your fingers and does not form a ball, then it will be very free flowing. If it forms a ball very easily, then flow aids will probably be needed to keep the product moving.

Unfortunately, it is not always possible to accomplish this kind of testing beforehand.

You may have a feeder that you inherited from another person’s decision or you may have recently changed the ingredient or supplier of that ingredient and the feeder is not performing correctly.  The most common problems with feeders are

No Flow

Bridging of material above the feeder, feeder is plugged, motor is undersized so feeder kicks out and obstruction above the feeder due to a foreign object dropped in the bin

Insufficient flow

Feeder is undersized, hopper is bridging or ratholing, a buildup of material on the feeder

Decreasing flow

Feeder has product build up on it, rat holing of hopper above the feeder, obstruction above the feeder due to a foreign object

Inconsistent flow

Product is packing in hopper, bridging and rat holing above feeder, incorrect control loop

Inconsistent cut-off

Flushing or flooding of material due to low friction material with flat angle of repose, inconsistent free fall due to compaction

Premature wear

Product is abrasive, product is under pressure

Damaged product

Product is shear sensitive, and breakable

Not enough turn down

Feeder drive is wrong, may require two feeders, or a smaller feeder

Troubleshooting

If you can evaluate the specific cause of the problem, then it makes it much easier to apply specific solutions to the problem.

This may mean that instead of the operator pounding on the bin when a no flow condition occurs, someone opens the hopper to observe what is happening inside. This may disrupt production temporarily, but it is better than suffering the long term loss is production that an upset condition can cause.

Another troubleshooting method is to insert a rod or pole into the material to see if you can feel voids where bridging over the feeder may be occurring.

If the product is very dense in one location and looser in another, then there may be effects from compaction or rat holing. It may be that you will actually have to empty the hopper in order to find a problem with buildup of material on the screw or on the sides of the hopper.

These observations should of course be made with the proper safety interlocks in place.

Once you have determined the nature of the problem, here are a few solutions that you may be able to use.

No flow

A mechanical agitator or vibrator may be added to the hopper. This can be set on a timer to run at intervals or may run continuously.

The mechanical agitator can have fingers to break up the product or can be paddles or ribbons that condition the product before it enters the feeder.

It is better if the mechanical agitator has it’s own drive, so the speed can be adjusted based on the material characteristics.

Air pads are also used to break up the bridge and also to aerate the product to get it to flow.  If air pads are used then the manufacturers recommendation for on and off duration should be followed to prevent the product from becoming too aerated or becoming air born.

If a vibrator is used, then the time duration should be adjustable to prevent excessive packing.  It is also a good idea to get recommendations from the vibrator supplier for proper mounting to prevent premature fatigue of the hopper that the vibrator is mounted on.

Insufficient flow

If there are no obvious obstructions above the feeder that would reduce the flow then the feeder may be under sized for the application.

If the feeder is undersized and does not have a VFD on it already, a speed control can allow you to run the feeder faster than 60htz.

In some cases you could go up to 120 hz and double the speed. It may be also possible to change the reducer on the drive to get more RPM to the feeder. Care should be taken to make sure that the max rpm for the feeder is not exceeded.

Decreasing flow

If build up is happening on the feeder, then it may be enough to attach the feeder frame to ground the feeder to keep the static electricity from starting the initial material build up.

There are also treatments and coatings that can be put on the feeder and hopper that can prevent buildup. These include electro polishing the feeder or having Teflon applied.

Inconsistent flow

You can address this through mechanical or another form of agitator to break up bridging or rat holing.

Removal of obstructions above the feeder is necessary and you need to check the control loop to eliminate oscillation.

Inconsistent cut-off

If you find that material is flushing or flooding after the feeder shuts off, this can be due to how the product is delivered to the bin.

If it comes from a pneumatic system, or a mixer it could be aerated or under pressure.  A vented hopper above to isolate the condition and allow the product to de-aerate can help. A slide gate or butterfly valve at the discharge point can also stop this from happening.

Premature wear

This is usually because the feeder and or hopper is softer then the material that you are trying to meter. Special coatings and liners can be used to slow down wear. A larger feeder that would run slower can also help the problem.

Damaged product

This is usually caused by using a feeder that is not the correct type for the product.

A belt feeder or vibratory feeder would be preferred over an auger type feeder for friable products.  It can also help to decrease the tolerance between the auger and the trough to eliminate the pinch point that can cause product breakage. This works if the tolerance can be made smaller than the particle size.

Insufficient turndown

If the auger is too large, then an auger with smaller flights and a larger tube can be used to decrease the output from the feeder (see picture). It may also be possible to use two feeders to get the necessary high and low speed range to increase the accuracy.

In conclusion, it is always in your best interest to be proactive when dealing with ingredients that are known to be sluggish. It is important to talk to experts and take their experience into account when choosing a feeder. If you find yourself in a situation where you are dealing with an existing feeder and also a problematic material, there are options to help lessen downtime caused by issues with flow.

Terry Stemler is President, Automated Process Equipment Corporation. 

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Source: engineerlive.com

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