#because it's cheaper to buy in bulk and it's mostly cans so it's very heavy
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The irony of everything I've ordered over the last two weeks arriving on the days we're having torrential downpours and possible flooding isn't lost on me. I have impeccable timing apparently.
#it will be funnier once I'm dry again#three times today I've gotten soaked in a matter of minutes trying to bring stuff in#and none of its light#one box was almost fifty pounds of cat food and supplements#because it's cheaper to buy in bulk and it's mostly cans so it's very heavy#and while i appreciate the delivery people putting them as close to the door as possible to keep the boxes drier#i wish they wouldn't put them on the hinge side because it's very hard to push the door open to get out and get them#still more things coming tomorrow and also worse rain
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My grocery list
I’m putting my grocery list in a blog post so that others can get a specific picture of how the things I buy help save me money and simplify my life. You may notice that some things are in odd categories-I’m not a nutritionist. Also, you’ll probably notice that there is very few premade items, mostly sauces. Hope it is somewhat interesting. There is a copy and paste-able list at the bottom. I have also written a blog post with recipes I commonly use these ingredients in.
Meat
I buy meats that have multiple uses. My regulars are: flank steak, chicken thighs, ground beef (80/20), eggs, and fish. I use flank steak because it is lean and a good cut, but still inexpensive. I like chicken thigh because they are less expensive and more moist than breasts, but just as versatile a protein. Ground beef is good for tacos, burgers, and adding to dishes. I like 80/20 because it isn’t too dry to cook on its own and it is cheaper. Eggs are a great source of easy protein and fairly inexpensive. The kind of fish I get depends on the prices. I always look at the prices so I know when there’s a deal. I don’t buy if there are no deals. I like fish, but it can be very pricey. Especially for meat I would recommend going to a Costco business center or Chef Store. I buy in bulk and portion it into reusable bags.
Veggies and fruits
Staples: Avocado, Banana, Tomato, Romaine, Apple (Fuji or Gala), Potato, Garlic, Onion, Brussel Sprouts, Asparagus, Broccoli (frozen), Peas (frozen), Corn (frozen)
Variable: Sweet potato, Blueberries, Grapes, Raspberries, Mango, Cauliflower, Zucchini, Spaghetti Squash, Mushrooms, Sweet Peppers, Carrots, Turnips
Seasonal/Occasional: Ginger, Cherries, Grapefruit, Watermelon, Artichoke, Celery, Pineapple
Spices
Spices accumulate over time and do not need to be purchased frequently. I will list them according to how important/versatile I think they are.
Staples: Cumin, Paprika, Thyme, Rosemary, Salt, Pepper, Cinnamon, Garlic Powder, Onion Powder
Good to have: Turmeric, Fennel, Nutmeg, Cloves, Chili Powder, Cayenne, Red Pepper, Parsley, Chives, Oregano, Sage, Montreal Steak Seasoning, Sesame Seeds
Used sparingly: Cardamom, Seasoned Salt
Carbs
I don’t eat wheat-it just disagrees with me. I substitute pastas with mung bean noodles. We eat a lot of tacos with corn tortillas. I occasionally use rice. I keep walnuts, pecans, almonds, cashews, peanuts (in-shell), and sunflower seeds on hand for snacking, adding to salads, and grinding up to make breadings.
Sauces
I have a lot of sauces since they keep well. Those include, but are probably not limited to: ketchup, mustard (deli, yellow, sometimes honey), mayo, soy, oyster, Worchester, A1, peanut, sweet chili, tapatio, crystal, lemon juice, lime juice, teriyaki, BBQ, jelly, peanut butter, maple syrup, vanilla flavoring,
Oils and vinegar
Avocado oil for high heat, olive oil for not so hot, coconut oil, lard for seasoning the cast iron, balsamic (which I also make a glaze from), apple cider vinegar. I keep white vinegar under the sink for cleaning and crafts.
Dairy
Heavy whipping cream is delicious and can be used in anything calling for milk-watered down if necessary, but milk cannot be whipped. Occasionally fancy cheese for cheese and meats date nights. Dried non-fat milk. Sour cream. Greek yogurt-plain or honey flavor. Butter.
Canned/jarred
Soups, tuna, spam (for musubi), beans (black and refried), enchilada sauce, spaghetti sauce, artichoke hearts, pickles, jalapenos, olives (black and green/Kalamata)
Other
Corn starch, baking soda, baking powder, cocoa powder, chocolate chips, bouillon, tortilla chips, salsa
I just replace these things as they run out. It is a diverse enough list to make many recipes, but small enough that it isn’t too costly nor strenuous to maintain. As I run out of things, I add it to my list. When the list is long enough, or has items that are of greater importance, I go shopping.
Just Lists
Staples:
flank steak, chicken thighs, ground beef (80/20), eggs, fish, Avocado, Banana, Tomato, Romaine, Apple (Fuji or Gala), Potato, Garlic, Onion, Brussel Sprouts, Asparagus, Broccoli (frozen), Peas (frozen), Corn (frozen), Cumin, Paprika, Thyme, Rosemary, Salt, Pepper, Cinnamon, Garlic Powder, Onion Powder, corn tortillas, mung bean noodles, rice, walnuts, pecans, almonds, sunflower seeds, ketchup, mustards, mayo, soy, tapatio, lemon juice, lime juice, teriyaki, BBQ, jelly, peanut butter, avocado oil, olive oil, apple cider vinegar, heavy whipping cream, sour cream, butter, tuna, beans, enchilada sauce, spaghetti sauce, pickles, jalapenos, olives, corn starch, baking soda, bouillon, tortilla chips
Extras:
Sweet potato, Blueberries, Grapes, Raspberries, Mango, Cauliflower, Zucchini, Spaghetti Squash, Mushrooms, Sweet Peppers, Carrots, Turnips, Turmeric, Fennel, Nutmeg, Cloves, Chili Powder, Cayenne, Red Pepper, Parsley, Chives, Oregano, Sage, Montreal Steak Seasoning, Sesame Seeds, cashews, peanuts, oyster sauce, Worchester, A1, peanut sauce, sweet chili sauce, crystal hot sauce, maple syrup, vanilla flavor, coconut oil, balsamic vinegar, dried non-fat milk, Greek yogurt, canned soups, spam, artichoke hearts, salsa
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Understanding Unequal Exchange: How does trade imperialism affect the global working class?
This article originally appeared on Anticonquista, an Anti-Imperialist Media outlet for the Latin American and Caribbean Diaspora. This is my attempt to write an accessible explainer on the issue of Unequal Exchange, using some examples from the Pacific and New Zealand to illustrate the sometimes equation-heavy theory.
I was initially inspired to write this explainer by Abdul Nasir’s reexamination of Dependency Theory. It is wonderful to see the fruitful and diverse theories of Imperialism of the late 20th century being revived and discussed on Anticonquista. We must do all we can to resume the important debates that were muted by the collapse of global workers’ institutions at the close of the last century, and overcome the grey orthodoxy that has reasserted itself in radical critiques of imperialism.
Unequal exchange was once considered one of the most important new developments in imperialism studies of the 20th century. The theory, first proposed by French-Greek theorist and resistance fighter Arghiri Emmanuel in the 1960s, was quickly taken up by many of the underdevelopment and imperialism theorists of the day, from Walter Rodney to Samir Amin. Dependency theorists like Andre Gunder Frank had proven that the imperialism had developed to a point where empire was best understood not in terms of capital exports from the core (as in Hobson, Bukharin, Hilferding and Lenin’s models), but in terms of the wealth extracted from the periphery. However, they were not always clear on how this wealth was generated. Emmanuel was the first to propose an original theory of where exactly that extracted wealth came from. This was the theory of unequal exchange, the idea that the bulk of imperialist superprofits stemmed not from monopolies, noncompetition or securing captive markets, but rather from the difference in wages between nations.
To Emmanuel, Marx’s factors of production were not only fixed quantities of labour and material inputs, they also represented the stake each class holds in the total surplus value produced by a society (whether this stake is recognised is another matter). A given quantity of labour hours invested in production represents a stake workers hold over an end product, while a given quantity of raw materials or fixed capital represents the stake a capitalist holds.
In pre-capitalist artisanal production, the labourer is the only one who holds a stake over the end product of their labour. The labourer controls both the tools and the resources required for production, and can work whenever they choose. The labourer can move freely between industries, and will move to whichever one yields the best prices. Many artisans will move into an industry if the prices are very high, and begin producing greater quantities of that commodity, forcing prices down. In pre-capitalist production, the market will reward labourers for fulfilling particular needs, and that reward falls in relation to the degree that need is met, and so wages and profitability both equalise freely.
All that changes in a society with two classes involved in production. Under capitalist production, both the labourer and capitalist have stakes in the final product, and thus the degree to which wages and prices equalise depends on different factors. When capital moves freely between industries, this tends to equalise the rate of profit. When labour moves freely between industries, this tends to equalise wages. Both wages and profitability must be considered when setting prices.
This is all well and good in the context of individual countries. In most countries, labour and capital moves freely between industries, and so wages, profitability, and prices are all relatively consistent between towns and cities in one country.
On an international level however, wages, profitability and prices are often completely inconsistent, especially between richer and poorer countries. This is because capital often moves freely between the core and the periphery, shifting to wherever has the highest rate of profit, while labour is constrained. Workers cannot move between countries due to militarised borders, repressive governments, and migration quotas. In the end, the rate of profit slowly equalises between countries, while wages only become more and more dissimilar between countries due to different levels of unionisation, and other “historical and moral determinants” like the degree of reactionary violence, market suppression and underdevelopment.
At the end of the day, a situation is produced wherein, as Charles Bettleheim explains, “on the world market the poor nations are obliged to sell the product of a relatively large number of hours in order to obtain in exchange from the rich nations the product of a small number of hours of labour.”
This inequality in trade can be further explored in a number of ways. In the past, unequal exchange has been explained through equations and figures, but this topic is too important to be bound up in academic language and convention. What follows is my attempt to explore the consequences of unequal exchange through the eyes of two fictional workers in countries separated by a small stretch of South Pacific ocean.
An example: Natia and Tim
Unequal Exchange can be hard to understand in human terms. By its nature it deals with abstract transfers of wealth in the spaces between nations, never really connecting with our human experience of work and life. But it does have a human dimension, and it extends outwards from a web of interconnected human experiences and struggles. Compare Natia and Tim. Natia works at a copra plantation in Savai’i, in Samoa. She spends her day collecting coconuts, halving them, and leaving them out to dry in the sun in large batches. Sometimes she helps at the kilns, where the sun-dried coconuts are fully dried, and the desiccated meat is crushed into oil and meal. It is a hard process, and sometimes whole batches develop mold and have to be thrown out. The market for the meal is shrinking, as the New Zealand farmers who used to buy it as animal feed have now shifted to Palm Kernel Expeller, much of it grown by debt slaves in Malaysia.
In the end, Natia gets about $350 USD per month for her full-time labour. It’s considered a decent wage in Samoa. Her employer has few ongoing costs aside from her low wages. However, considering the need to compete with PKE and other copra producers, the employer can only sell the copra meal for a very low price: just above the amount needed to pay for Natia and the other workers’ labour.
3,000 kilometres away from Natia, Tim is just starting his shift. He works at a plastics factory in Auckland, New Zealand. The factory is designed to turn mineral oil into a range of commodity plastics and tupperware, and while Tim works hard, his productivity is mostly due to the wide variety of factory machines at his disposal. Tim is able to produce a large amount of plastic products in just one hour, and the market for the products is always high, since the factory is generally able to out-produce and out-compete its smaller competitors.
Tim has been working at the company for a while, and has always participated in his union. The most recent strike was 2 years ago, when the union representatives were able to secure a new collective bargaining agreement that raised Tim’s wages to $3,150 USD per month. It’s nowhere near as much as his many managers get, but Tim is pretty thankful, since it’s considered a living wage by New Zealand standards. The company fought tooth and nail against the pay increase, but in the end it didn’t hurt business too much, and they were able to compensate by raising prices, thanks to their healthy market share.
The products of Natia and Tim’s labour are often exported around the Pacific. A handful of New Zealand farmers still import Pacific copra meal, while stores in Savai’i often stock the tupperware containers and commercial plastics Tim produces. The problem is that the products of their equivalent labour hours are sold at wildly different prices. The amount of tupperware that Time produces in one labour hour gets sold for enough to pay for nine hours of Natia’s work.
Is Tim’s labour itself worth nine times more than Natia’s? Not really; if Natia went to New Zealand and performed similar agricultural work, she would be paid at a rate much more comparable to Tim, if only due to labour laws and the higher cost of living in New Zealand. The product of her labour would also be exchanged at a vastly higher rate, even without additional machinery to help her. The real problem is that Natia could only access those wages if she won a visa through the ballot system, and only a few were given out each year, even before it was shut down entirely due to Covid.
The disparity between the two only becomes more extreme as time goes on. Thousands of other workers produce commodities that are traded between New Zealand and Samoa, and all of them have very similar wages to Natia and Tim. Samoa is limited in how many New Zealand imports it can buy, since its products are worth nine times less than New Zealand’s by default. Meanwhile, New Zealand exporters are making a killing: their products could buy nine times their own value in Samoan commodities! Over time, Samoan industry becomes more and more specialised and export-oriented, and less able to supply domestic consumers with cheaper local goods, processes covered by Samir Amin in Unequal Development. Instead, imported western goods become the norm, and Natia is forced to spend much more on necessities. Competition in the animal feed market threatens to force Natia’s wages down further, or even put the plantation out of business entirely.
Meanwhile, Tim’s wages are enough to buy plenty of consumer goods. He can’t always afford the boutique local brands, but he can afford as much imported produce as he could ever need. Over time, his wages are supplemented by these cheaper goods, and he can afford to save. In addition, the state mandates access to a superannuation fund for workers, and Tim’s contributions are invested in all sorts of foreign industry and international trade futures. Tim doesn’t ever have enough to stop working for a living, but he has enough to perhaps retire comfortably, or even to ensure that his kids don’t have to work as hard as he did. He is secure in the knowledge that in the long run, things seem to be getting better.
Workers like Natia represent the bulk of the global working class, labouring in low-paid labour producing much of the world’s most basic commodities. Their conditions are deteriorating due to the increased dependency, specialisation, and export-orientation of industry in the global periphery, as this means there is less local industry devoted to local needs. They are unable to save, or move to countries with better conditions. Their main hope is an increase in the total global mobility of labour, which might equalise wages and prices between countries. For them, freedom of migration is liberation, as even if they don’t migrate themselves, the resulting wage equalisation benefits everyone.
Workers like Tim represent a minority in the global working class: he is at the bottom end of a labour aristocracy. As we have seen, Tim’s conditions aren’t wonderful, or somehow post-scarcity, but he has the ability to save, to move between industries freely, to invest his surplus wages, and to send his kids to be educated. These are all rights Tim ought to enjoy, ones which he fought hard to keep, but the institutions which enable those rights are also unwittingly contributing to global inequality.
In rich countries, prices and wages are caught in an upward death spiral. Since prices are determined by the interrelationship between wages and profitability, and wages tend to gravitate around the ability to purchase a fixed number of commodities, we can see how wages might push prices higher and vice versa. Other factors push wages and prices higher, including the efforts by unions to stay ahead of the cost of living, and increases in the overall standard of living enabled by external debt.
To break out of that spiral means acting internationally, securing better wages for all workers up and down the supply chain. An alternative approach would involve pressuring western governments to impose price ceilings: a hard limit on the cost of living set in a fixed number of commodities. Theorists like Emmanuel singled out western unions as a major cause of unequal exchange, and it is certainly true that many cannot be relied upon, but it is not necessarily unions themselves so much as the underlying upward spiral of prices and wages. A world with fewer unions, even the most compromised ones, is nonetheless one in which workers wield less power, and have less potential energy to turn towards international organisation.
The global consequences of Unequal Exchange
The relationship between Natia and Tim is just one tiny part of the global problem of unequal exchange. The true scale of unequal exchange has only been explored relatively recently thanks to the work of Zak Cope, in his book The Wealth of (Some) Nations, as well as recent studies that have built upon his findings.
Much of Cope’s recent work is devoted to quantifying and exploring various forms of imperialist superprofits (or the Imperial Transfer of Value). In Cope’s analysis, unequal exchange is not the sole form of imperialist superprofits, but it does constitute a majority. By measuring wage differentials between core and peripheral countries, and comparing those wages to a midpoint (the global median wage), Cope was able to find the total value gained each year through unequal exchange: roughly 2.8 trillion dollars per year.
To put this in perspective, the value gained through unequal exchange is 53.8% of all superprofits flowing from the periphery to the core. It is also 31.5% of the core’s profits available for reinvestment (calculated as the core’s GDP multiplied by rate of savings), in other words, nearly a third of all profits in the core are purely the result of being able to sustain higher wages.
Decades ago, Samir Amin predicted that as the rate of profit fell in core industries, unequal exchange would slowly come to be the dominant source of profits for western capitalists, locking the periphery into a permanent state of dependency in order to prop-up the decayed husk of domestic industry in the core. In many of the world’s richest nations, that prediction is being borne out today.
Shifting the locus of value creation from the core to the periphery means that the core relies less and less on the unprofitable exploitation of its own workers. Instead, many core workers are increasingly being placed in menial office and managerial jobs which produce little to no real value. Such workers are ostensibly there to increase the value of other labourers’ work – so-called “reflexive” labourers – but in practice this is economically impossible, and many of these managers, administrators, and functionaries are simply paid consumers, shifting and manipulating various forms of debt, sitting at the heights of increasingly top-heavy finance and tech juggernauts.
As the core systematically underdevelops itself, taking away its own ability to autogenously produce value, the periphery stands at a crossroads. Many nations are now choosing to promote trade between peripheral partners, effectively disengaging from the predatory trade imperialism of the core. This too has dangers, in that it risks imperialist intervention, and some peripheral nations still side with the core out of fear of repercussions, out of a bribed ruling class, or out of a lack of alternatives.
Workers in the core are still able to organise against trade imperialism directy, even if such activism will always be opposed by sections of the labour aristocracy. Pushing for increased migrant quotas and rights is one proven way to mitigate global wage inequality, as remittances and competition tend to raise peripheral average wages. To return to our Pacific example, compare Samoa with the Cook Islands: both nations were colonised and dominated by New Zealand imperialism, but the Cooks have at least gained an average wage more comparable to the core, entirely thanks to the ability to migrate to a core nation.
Another step would be to encourage labour organisation across national boundaries. As we have seen, a narrow-minded focus on only improving the wages of core workers can actively harm peripheral workers by encouraging greater differences in wages. If the entire supply chain of an industry can be organised, not only would workers exercise greater control over their workplaces by influencing the factors of production, they would also be able to raise the lowest-paid workers up to a greater standard.
One of the greatest lessons we can draw from recent advances in unequal exchange theory is that business-as-usual activism can have unintended consequences. Do we fight to perpetuate labour aristocracy, wealth extraction, and the further stratification of our class? Or do we fight to bring about unity between workers of all nationalities, no matter their position in the hierarchies of industry and empire?
Further Reading
Arghiri Emmanuel, Unequal Exchange: A Study of the Imperialism of Trade, 1972 Emmanuel’s most rigorous examination of Unequal Exchange is still highly relevant reading today, even if sections on Organic Composition of Capital have been questioned by later writers. It also includes an interesting debate between Emmanuel and his mentor Charles Bettleheim.
Zak Cope, The Wealth of (Some) Nations: Imperialism and the Mechanics of Value Transfer, 2019 Cope’s most recent book builds on his ideas from 2013’s Divided World, Divided Class into one of the most rigorous analyses of imperialist value transfer yet attempted. Cope’s analysis of Unequal Exchange is limited to two small chapters, but the rest of the book is well worth a read and covers an enormous swathe of leftist and colonial history.
Anthony Brewer, Marxist Theories of Imperialism: A Critical Survey, 1980 Brewer’s book is a great overview of theories of imperialism, from Marx to Emmanuel and Amin. He takes particular interest in charting the development of Unequal Exchange discourse, and makes a few of his own additions to the theory.
Walter Rodney, How Europe Underdeveloped Africa, 1974 Rodney was one of the first writers in the colonised world to pick up the idea of Unequal Exchange, and wove it into his masterful history of European colonisation in Africa, which also serves to discredit the “whiggish history” of perpetual progress in the colonised world.
Samir Amin, Unequal Development: An Essay on the Social Formations of Peripheral Capitalism, 1976 Amin was one of the first writers able to explore the various international implications of Unequal Exchange rather than having to develop his own economic framework from scratch. As such his work is often more holistic than the narrow economic focus of Emmanuel. His theory of development is excellent, even if his autarkic conclusions are sometimes flawed.
Esteban Ezequiel Maito, The historical transience of capital: the downward trend in the rate of profit since the 19th century, 2014 Maito’s study represents a rigorous effort to analyse the declining rate of profit. Crucially, Maito accounts for the rate of turnover, something similar studies sometimes fail to do. Maito identifies three separate rates of profit, the core, peripheral, and China, and demonstrates that these are all equalising as they decline. This confirms many of the assumptions of the Unequal Exchange theorists.
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Keto Costco
Keto at Costco – Costco Keto Shopping List
What to Buy for Keto at Costco
People in the keto community love watching grocery hauls, fridge tours, or Days of Eating vlogs because they are easy ways to find inspiration and discover new meal ideas. Come grocery shopping with us and check out our Top 10 Keto Costco Buys.
Costco is one of our favorite places for high quality brands for low prices. If you’re feeding a lot of people, they have tons of great keto options to stock up on in bulk, from the staples to the specialty snacks. We’ll go through all the aisles to show you what’s keto friendly and what’s not.
Top 10 Costco Keto Buys
Grab a pen and paper! It’s time to make your next Costco shopping list.
1. Costco Meat
Some people argue the keto diet is expensive because meat is pricey, but not when you’re shopping at Costco. USDA Prime beef is good quality and has a low price, so stock up your freezer with fatty cuts of steak and ground beef. This beef brisket was only $3.79/lb which is a great deal.
Don’t forget to grab some Kiolbassa Smoked Sausages for quick meals throughout the week. They’ve got perfect keto macros and are delicious.
# USDA Prime Beef
# Kiolbassa Smoked Sausages
# Organic Whole Chickens – great for bone broth!
# Uncured Bacon
# Pork Belly
2. Costco Seafood
If you’re like most Americans, you’re probably not eating enough Omega-3 fatty acids which are mostly found in wild caught fish. Matt likes to incorporate some seafood into his meals to up his fat content and balance his Omega Fatty acid ratio. Costco carries a few great options.
# Wild Planet Canned Sardines
# Smoked Salmon (look for brands that don’t use sugar)
The smoked salmon from Costco was $15 per pound, which sounds expensive, but it’s cheaper than other grocery stores. A lot of smoked salmon is cured with sugar, so make sure to read the ingredient label. Make our Keto Bagels then top them with cream cheese and smoked salmon for a low-carb Lox sandwich!
3. Keto Dairy
Whether you’re looking for affordable or high quality and raw, Costco has the dairy for you and your keto diet.
# Heavy Whipping Cream
# Bulk Parmesan
# Bulk Feta
# Bulk Cheddar
# Raw Comte Cheese
# Raw P’tit Basque
Comté Cheese is made from raw milk, which is easier to digest and is full of probiotics. It is also Megha’s all-time favorite. This delicious, one pound brick from Costco was only $10.00 and aged for eight months. (The longer it has been aged, the better!) Megha’s perfect night is munching on a cheeseboard, enjoying some wine, and hanging out with Matt and their fur babies. Add some olives, nuts, and berries to your cheeseboard for a delicious keto appetizer.
4. Keto Snacks
If you’re looking for a few snacks to take on the road with you or enjoy at the movie theater, Costco has keto snacks galore. Remember to avoid anything containing maltitol or IMO fiber. Here are some great snack options.
# Kirkland Protein bars – Similar to a Quest bar, but cheaper.
Make sure to buy the one that is sweetened with erythritol (Kirkland Signature Protein Bars), and not maltitol, which can spike your blood sugar levels. Just read the ingredient list to know for sure!
# Cheese Crisps like Cello Whisps or Moon Cheese – Crunchy and salty!
# Nuts in bulk
5. Keto Baking Ingredients
You don’t have to live live without sweet treats and home baking when on a keto diet. Luckily Costco has low-carb baking ingredients you can find at great prices like Kirkland Almond Flour and Hemp Hearts.
We love hemp hearts for their low-carb, high-fat macro ratio. They are perfect for keto and a staple food for many vegan and vegetarian diets that rely on plant sources for their protein and fats. You can score a 24 oz. bag of hemp hearts from Costco for just $9.00!
Use Almond Flour to Make:
# Almond Ricotta Cookies
# Keto Cheesy keto Garlic bread
# Keto Chewy Chocolate Chip Cookies
# Hundreds more recipes using almond flour!
Use Hemp Hearts to make:
# Overnight Keto “Oatmeal”
# Keto Vegan Breakfast Protein Bowl
# Keto Vegan Meal Replacement Bars
6. Costco Fats & Oils
Fats and oils are an obvious staple on the keto diet, so buying in bulk at Costco is the way to go.
# Kerry Gold Butter – Grass-fed is higher in Vitamin A
Costco has the best deal for Kerry Gold Butter, so stock up. It’s only $11.00 for four bars, so we like to get three to six cases. We prefer to buy unsalted butter so we can have more control of how salty our recipes turn out. Try our favorite butter recipes, Bulletproof Coffee and Ooey Gooey Butter Cake!
# Ghee – A dairy free alternative to butter.
Ghee is just clarified butter, which means the fat has been separated from the milk, making it lactose-free. We blend it into our bulletproof coffees and use it in cooking. The Ghee we buy at Costco has good flavor and is cheap, just $19.00 for 56 oz. You can also find it at South Asian food stores for a good price!
# Coconut Oil
When buying coconut oil, we look for unrefined and cold-pressed, which just means they didn’t use high heat or chemicals to extract the oil from the coconut. High heat tends to damage the nutrients in healthy oils. We use it for frying, but it is a great substitute for butter in any recipe if you want to make it dairy-free. Try coconut oil in our Coconut Fat Bombs and Homemade Almond Joys!
# Avocado Oil
# Olive Oil
# Chosen Foods Avocado Oil Mayonnaise is an amazing score at Costco.
Megha eats mayonnaise every single day in her Egg Salad, so she needs to keep the fridge stocked. She used to eat Hellman’s Mayonnaise, but since making the decision to cut refined vegetable oils like soybean oil and canola oil from her diet, she likes to buy from Chosen Foods. They make their sauces with avocado oil and coconut oil. (Megha doesn’t recommend the coconut oil one!) Remember to always read the ingredient label to know what’s in your sauce!
7. Keto Drinks at Costco
Costco carries all kinds of drinks, but of course we’re on the hunt for sugar-free options. Try the Zip-Fizz!
Megha’s favorite pre-workout is Zipfizz, not only because it’s delicious, but it contains 1000mg of potassium per packet and a dose of caffeine. It’s important to replenish your electrolytes like potassium, sodium, and magnesium while on a keto diet because your body isn’t holding onto as much fluid as it usually does. As your body flushes out water, it flushes out the electrolytes with it, which can make you feel weak, tired, groggy, and even give you muscle cramps.
You can also grab some diet drinks, sparkling water, or even some coffee for making your bulletproof coffee.
POWDERED BONE BROTH
If you can’t be bothered to make your own bone broth, but want to experience some of its gut-healing benefits, then we recommend LonoLife for their shelf-stable bone broth packets. The chicken flavor is our favorite and the Costco deal works out to be about $1.00/packet. If you do want to try making your own bone broth, try our Instant Pot Bone Broth recipe!
8. Keto Produce
We don’t like to buy a ton of produce from Costco since we have a small household and can’t eat that many vegetables quick enough, but there are some great options for people following a keto diet.
# Mushrooms
# Avocados
# Organic Salad Mix
# Frozen Cauliflower Rice
9. Keto Nuts and Seeds
Nuts are a great addition to any keto diet and can crush a chip craving in a hurry. Most nuts are high in fat, so the trick is buying the ones that are also low in carbs. Costco has some options.
# Macadamia Nuts
# Walnuts
# Almonds
# Pecans
# Pumpkin Seeds
10. Costco Eggs in Bulk
We’re going to give eggs their very own category since they’re such a nutrient powerhouse and are the perfect keto food. Costco offers eggs in large cartons, not just your standard dozen carton. Use them in Breakfast Casseroles, baking, Mug Cakes and just as a quick meal. Eggs are everything.
Sweeteners to Avoid at Costco!
Does natural mean sugar-free? No! Here are some sweeteners you will encounter at the grocery store, but should avoid!
1. Agave Syrup: This is pure sugar.
2. Coconut Sugar: Also just another form of sugar.
3. Stevia in the Raw: The first ingredient is cane sugar, which is pure sugar.
4. Splenda: This is okay in small amounts, like a packet in your coffee. But with ingredients like dextrose and maltodextrin, it’s best to stay away from consuming this in large amounts.
In Summary
Costco is one of our top stores to buy the necessities! They have so many cheap options that you can buy in bulk so they last a while! This was our list of the top 10 things to buy at Costco for keto, as well as a few things to stay away from.
1. Costco Meat
2. Costco Seafood
3. Keto Dairy
4. Keto Snacks
5. Keto Baking Ingredients
6. Fats & Oils
7. Keto Drinks
8. Produce
9. Keto Nuts & Seeds
10. Costco Eggs
We also added many extra things that you can buy at Costco for keto!
We were blown away by how many new products Costco was carrying on our last grocery haul, so be sure to check it out and see what’s new in your store! Comment below with your favorite keto grocery items from Costco!
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#Keto Costco#Top 10 Keto Costco#Keto at Costco#Costco Keto Shopping List#Buy for Keto at Costco#Top 10 Costco Keto Buys#KetoConnect
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1967: Opened first location in Los Angeles County
1979: Sold Trader Joe’s to Aldi
Quirky grocery brand, amassed a cult following among health and value conscious shoppers
Experts estimate that Trader Joe’s outsells all of the competition in terms of sales per square foot. Net sales of $13.7 billion in 2019.
The fan fervor around Trader Joe’s has consumers begging for more, even starting petitions for new locations.
There are even Instagram influencers dedicated to Trader Joe’s products. In terms of overall customer service, TJ was the highest ranking national brand in Consumer Reports’ 2019 ranking of grocery chains.
Customers report high levels of satisfaction despite the fact that TJ is not necessarily convenient nor a one-stop shop. It has a limited selection of meat, produce and toiletries, no deli, no self-checkout, no online shopping/delivery service.
Knowing that one can get a larger selection elsewhere + live right next door to another major grocery store but still travel twice a month 100 blocks to shop at the busiest TJ in NYC, waited in massive lines, carried 2 heavy bags up and down 4 flights of stairs between subway and apartment (i.e. very far + troublesome).
Trader Joe’s may not be the best all-rounder grocery store, but it doesn’t try to be. The company does certain things so well, and built one of the most passionate fan bases in the grocery business.
Preposterous in that it’s the anti-grocery store - virtually no branded goods, nothing is ever going to be on sale, no coupons, no loyalty card, no self-checkout, cramped aisles, small stores with limited selection, no TV ads.
Doesn’t try to draw customers in with wide aisles or high tech shopping, does minimal marketing, doesn’t have social media presence until just a few years ago.
Presents itself as a quaint, local store - everything is hand-drawn/ hand-written, which gives the store a low-key personal feeling, that you’re in a market or local stores that is not overly commercial.
Really captures the cultural zeitgeist in a way as far as not only tapping into the foodie culture, but also the movement away from traditional and established national/global brands and overly processed/produced food. The neighbourhood market atmosphere helps shoppers feel that they’re making healthy and environmentally friendly choices.
In terms of sustainability, people have this warm, fuzzy feeling and it’s reflected in the packaging. Trader Joe’s might look like a local store, but its environmental impact is not necessarily better than other grocery chains. One of the products, naan bread, was baked and frozen in India and shipped frozen to TJ stores - crazily considering you can bake naan bread anywhere - Marketing Executive that worked at TJ as a crew member out of intrigue for a year starting 2011
TJ made efforts to be more environmentally friendly, sometimes when under public pressure. It may not operate just like a local market but the experience of being at one helps us feel better about our shopping decisions.
Unique products not found else, e.g. a particular sauce, teeny tiny avocados
Presents itself as a local store, but has worldly connections. Founder Joe Coulombe gave the store a south-seas theme, complete with Hawaiian shirt clad employees who are called captains and crew members. The theme plays upon the idea of merchants sailing the oceans to bring home diverse foods from around the world. TJ product developers travel the world seeking inspiration for these recipes (discussed in an official company podcast).
They present their products as if they are local discoveries - something someone found a certain part of the world, and they’re now bringing it to you. Result: TJ products feel specially sourced, truly unique, and like they can’t be found in other grocery stores. The products seem even more one of a kind due to a generous use of descriptive adjectives, e.g. cheddar cheese: Wisconsin farmhouse cheddar cheese, fish-shaped gummy bears: Scandinavian swimmers. Customer want to feel like they are smart shoppers - if you can make them feel like they are in the know or that they have found something that other people haven’t, then that really increases the value perception that they get from the price.
What makes TJ products seem even more special is that they come and go - regularly introduces new products and then discontinues others since the stores are relatively small and shelf space is limited.
Issue of scarcity: If I like the item, buy it now. I’m not sure it will be here next month. There’s an element of impulse shopping going on because of the treasure hunt.
There’s a sense of discovery - of things that feel rare and urgent. Find myself telling my husband everything I bought - it’s almost like I’m bragging to him, like, look what I found.
TJ stores are typically 10-15k square feet in size, carry 4k SKUs (scannable units of inventory)
Average grocery store is about 40k square feet, carry 30k SKUs
Super-centers like Walmart or Costco exceed 200k square feet, exceed 100k SKUs
Too many choices can lead to paralysis - easier to decide when choosing from smaller selection.
What customers really want is the perception of choice, but they want the experience of no conflict, of less choice, i.e. easy choosing experience. Customers also feel more confident that they chose the best of what was here. So the entire experience makes them feel both more competent as well as more confident.
Experiment: Jam sampling station at a grocery stor e - more people purchased jam when there were less options to choose from.
What TJ doesn’t want you to know is that you can’t find very similar or identical products at other grocery stores.
TJ sells more than 80% private label goods (made by third party manufacturers and sold with TJ branding). TJ is notoriously secretive, especially about who their suppliers are - that way, you don’t know where their products really come from. They don’t want their customers to feel that they have an alternative way to get the same thing.
But in some ways, they actually could. TJ sources some of its products from major manufacturers that make all kinds of familiar goods. And some of those goods under different brand names may actually be similar or identical to the private label version sold at TJ, e.g. 2017 Eater investigation found that Naked Juice, a subsidiary of PepsiCo, has provided TJ with bottled smoothies. And when you compare a couple of TJ smoothies with their Naked Juice counterparts, their ingredients are nearly identical.
But TJ can also have exclusive supplier relationships, e.g. frozen pizza from Italy made by a family in Italy, and TJ was their only customer. That is obviously not the case for most products. TJ does prefer, if possible, to tweak the recipe so they can say its completely unique to TJ.
The media expected backlash towards the idea that TJ was trying to pretend as if these products were their own. But what consumers discovered is that they could get the same product at a lower price and a better shopping environment at TJ. Biggest draws: prices
The founder JC established TJ in the 60s with a certain customer in mind - TJ is for overeducated and underpaid people, for all the classical musicians, museum curators, journalists. He created TJ to cater to the increasing number of people getting a college degree.
Perhaps, it’s for the person who
- has good taste
- like to try new things
- but doesn’t necessarily want to spend a lot of money
TJ keeps prices down by keeping costs down - sells mostly private-label goods, which are cheaper than name-brand goods like Haagen Dazs ice-cream or Starbucks coffee.
Bulk purchase: Experts say TJ is also able to negotiate better pricing from suppliers by purchasing goods in larger quantities. After all, TJ offers a smaller selection of products than traditional grocery stores and thus sells larger quantities of each item.
Also possible that TJ has help from corporate parent Aldi who could leverage its relationships with suppliers to help TJ get better pricing.
Despite all these cost-saving measures, experts say TJ isn’t necessarily cheaper than other discount grocery stores. It just feels especially cheap. Not so much the reality of a big price difference as it is the perception that you’re getting better value from TJ (higher quality ingredients, better edited selection, much more pleasant shopping experience). But not just about feeling that the products are a great value, but rather feeling that you are valued, e.g. a particular TJ store that knows you by name - TJ staff are so happy and friendly all the time, e.g. striking up conversation at cash register or when walking you to a product you’re looking for - this employee behavioural is not by accident - barely showed employee how to use cash register but spent hours acting out little play acting exercises of how you would interact with a customer. TJ prefers to hire a certain kind of person: naturally extroverted and naturally empathetic. TJ is willing to pay above industry standard for those employees - according to TJ podcast, crew members get raises twice a year, perks can also include health insurance and retirement benefits.
Scheduling of staff was a complete disaster/disorganized, basic grocery store stuff like restocking store, ordering right mix of stuff, ordering stuff that people actually want, keeping frozen/cold stuff frozen/cold - TJ is poor at that, but good at one thing: building the brand
Experts say TJ isn’t trying to be the very best grocery store - TJ is acknowledging that for most Americans, you can’t do all your shopping at TJ, you still got to go to another grocery store, e.g. sometimes don’t have the basics, or produce not as fresh. TJ meat and vegetable sections have drawn criticisms in the past for being limited or not the best quality - TJ realized that they can’t be all things to all the people, and know that customers will also shop the competition - but what will they shop TJ for? Best in class for those products?
Grocery shopping can be a chore - many would be happy to outsource to Amazon or Instacart. Technology is trending toward eliminating the grocery store shopping experience altogether. Meanwhile, TJ isn’t competing on convenience, but rather giving one a different kind of grocery shopping experience - one that motivates people to seriously inconvenience themselves in order to shop there. TJ has successful regional competition from Wegmans on the East Coast and H.E.B in the South, but many multinational grocery brands (Whole Foods, Tesco) have tried and failed to imitate the concept in the US - TJ is hard to copy because it doesn’t just have one competitive advantage. The goal of any company isn’t just to build a distinctive strategy - it’s to build a moat around their castle, to be able to defend the castle, by building a unique system of activities, interlocking choices and activities (carved out niche in cutthroat industry by: limited SKUs, private label, treasure hunt, great value, low tech, friendly workers) - a system where things fit together really well.
You can go anywhere to tick off a checklist of basic needs, but at TJ, it’s about the joy of discovering something unexpected, even if it means not checking off a few things on your list.
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E-Waste Offers an Economic Opportunity as Well as Toxicity
The police raid on a junkyard on the outskirts of Bangkok had all the trappings of a drug bust. Swarming onto the open-air property in late May, officers from the Royal Thai Police found undocumented workers from Laos and Myanmar engaged in dangerous work that exposed them to blasts of toxic fumes and dust — a common hazard on the lowest rung of their illegal and booming international trade. The products these workers handled, however, were not heroin or methamphetamines but vast piles of discarded computers, electrical wires and circuit boards. And it’s very likely that much of this electronic waste came from one of the world’s biggest producers: the United States.
E-waste has become the world’s fastest-growing trash stream. For all of us who have discarded a phone or computer for a newer, sleeker model, the reasons are hardly a mystery. Still, the growth is staggering: The worldwide accumulation of e-waste has more than doubled in the last nine years. In 2016, according to the United Nations University, a global think tank that tracks the problem, the yearly accumulation reached 49.3 million tons — enough to fill more than a million 18-wheel trucks stretching from New York to Bangkok and back. By 2021, the annual total is predicted to surpass 57 million tons.
The explosion of e-waste highlights its dual (and dueling) identities as both environmental scourge and potential economic resource. Though often laced with lead, mercury or other toxic substances, laptops and phones also contain valuable elements like gold, silver and copper. Yet barely 20 percent of the world’s e-waste is collected and delivered to formal recyclers. The fate of the rest is largely unknown. Only 41 nations compile e-waste statistics, and their partial data can’t keep up with the expansion of electronic devices into so many consumer categories — toys and toilets, watches and refrigerators. In the United States, which generated an estimated 6.9 million tons of e-waste in 2016 (42 pounds per person), most e-waste probably goes straight into the trash. By one account, e-waste makes up just 2 percent of the total volume in American landfills — but more than two-thirds of heavy metals.
Despite being the world’s second-largest producer — China recently claimed the top spot — the United States is the only developed country that hasn’t ratified the Basel Convention on hazardous waste, a treaty that restricts the exports of e-waste and that has the support of 186 parties. Moreover, the United States has no national law for managing e-waste, leaving the issue to the states. (Fifteen states still have no e-waste legislation in effect.) The European Union, by contrast, has some of the toughest enforcement of e-waste laws in the world, banning exports to developing countries and compelling manufacturers to help fund recycling. Europe’s recycling rates for electronics — around 35 percent overall — are much higher than the American rate. “The U.S. has always been the elephant in room that nobody wants to talk about,” says Deepali Sinha Khetriwal, a Mumbai-based research associate at the United Nations University. “Until it decides to play a part, we can’t really solve the problem of e-waste shipments.”
A significant but ultimately unquantified portion of American e-waste is quietly exported, mostly to Asia. Until last year, China was handling an estimated 70 percent of the world’s processed e-waste. In January, Beijing imposed a sweeping ban on the import of e-waste as part of its “National Sword” campaign to slash the levels of what it calls “foreign garbage.” Though spurred by environmental concerns — rivers choked with toxic chemicals, local children with high levels of lead in their blood — Beijing’s move also seems emblematic of its increasing self-sufficiency and growing rejection of the West. The ban has caused upheaval in the global trade in e-waste, diverting huge amounts to smaller nations ill equipped to handle the overflow.
Even before the ban came into full effect, Chinese waste traders were setting up shop in Thailand. Days after the May raid outside Bangkok, the Thai police displayed seven containers at a local port, each packed with 24 tons of mostly broken electronics. So far, the Thai police have suspended the operations of five illegal e-waste processing facilities and found evidence of dozens of smaller high-polluting operations that risk contaminating the countryside. “Thailand is getting hit by a tidal wave of electronic waste,” says Jim Puckett, executive director of the Basel Action Network, a Seattle-based nonprofit that has used GPS devices to track illegal exports of e-waste to Asia. “The rest of Asia better get ready, because they are next.”
The bulk of used electronics shipped to the developing world are meant to give second and third lives to devices and help bridge the world’s digital divide. But the cloak of “reuse and repair” is often used to hide illegal exports of e-waste. This is ostensibly scrap, but the frenzy of hazardous e-waste activity in cities in Pakistan and Ghana, for example, testifies to the riches hidden in the piles of discarded electronics. According to researchers at U.N.U., the raw materials contained in e-waste were worth roughly $61 billion in 2016, more than the gross domestic product of even middle-income countries like Croatia or Costa Rica.
The precious metals in e-waste, found especially in circuit boards, are more concentrated than in the most productive mines. In 2016, the gold in the world’s e-waste equaled more than a tenth of the gold mined globally that year. And yet much of this treasure is simply reburied in landfills. Based on e-waste disposal rates, Americans alone throw out phones worth $60 million in gold and silver every year.
The idea of “mining” e-waste has tantalized the recycling and electronics industries for decades. Until recently, most methods to extract value have been costly, inefficient and hazardous. Backyard recyclers in places like India and Indonesia recover gold by bathing circuit boards in nitric and hydrochloric acid, thus poisoning waterways and communities. Others, like the migrant workers in Thailand, break down used electronics with cooking stoves and shredders and wear no protection against the emissions.
Over the last few years, however, innovators have devised safer techniques in the lab that would wrest value from e-waste. One isolates rare-earth elements with carbon nanotube technology; another recovers key minerals by bombarding them with underwater sound waves. Josh Lepawsky, a Canadian geographer and the author of “Reassembling Rubbish,” finds hope in a curious phenomenon: the growing re-export of e-waste from the developing world back to advanced countries that have greater recycling capacity. An “e-waste offset” by which countries importing high-quality used electronics send back an equal volume of e-waste “is very promising,” Lepawsky says.
As the extraction of metals becomes more efficient and eco-friendly, tech manufacturers may feel compelled to get raw materials from their own end-of-life products rather than from the earth. Apple, for instance, has pledged to make all of its future laptops and iPhones out of renewable resources or recycled materials. The idea goes beyond business to national security. “Governments are starting to take a more strategic view of e-waste, too,” Khetriwal says. “They ask, ‘How can we secure the raw materials we need for the future?’ ” Some of these metals and rare-earth elements are scarce, and some, like cobalt, are found mostly in conflict zones. By mining the ever-expanding mountains of e-waste, countries could steel themselves against the volatility in prices and supplies of the global market.
Some e-waste optimists envision a “circular economy” in which refurbished, reused and recycled raw materials help fuel a sustainable future. Japan was an early leader of this movement, pushing e-waste recycling with tough laws and, more recently, appealing gimmicks. At the 2020 Olympic Games in Tokyo, athletes will receive gold, silver and bronze medals forged from recycled e-waste — emblems of a world in which e-waste can take on the sheen of immortality.
The utopian vision of a circular economy is a long way off, though. E-waste recycling remains stubbornly low in most parts of the world. Even the extraction of precious metals has proved hard for companies to capitalize on. And the remaining mass of e-waste — mainly plastics laced with metals, chemicals and flame retardant — pose a more intractable problem. The recycling of these complex plastics would probably need to be subsidized or enforced through legislation — and few countries outside Europe or Japan have shown the commitment to make that happen.
To move toward a circular economy, manufacturers would also need to embrace a “green design” that minimizes the generation of e-waste in the first place. Companies like Apple and Dell, though, have not taken enough measures to make their products easier to use longer. “Planned obsolescence,” the intentional creation of products that rapidly become outdated so customers must replace them with ever-newer models, remains the modus operandi of the tech industry. Manufacturers argue that the approach stimulates not only profits but also the very innovation that drives the global economy. And it has produced a Pavlovian response in consumers, for whom the temptation to buy a slightly cooler phone every couple of years has hardened into a seeming necessity. Not long ago, one tech manufacturer introduced a cheaper, longer-lasting phone — the perfect antidote to planned obsolescence. It was not a hit — but it was a reminder that we all share some responsibility for the explosion of e-waste in scrap yards across the world.
Source
Brook Larmer, in New York Times, July 5, 2018 https://www.nytimes.com/2018/07/05/magazine/e-waste-offers-an-economic-opportunity-as-well-as-toxicity.html
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How to Choose a Paddle Board?
How to choose a paddle board? a quick guide to help you to choose a paddle board:
Stand up paddle boarding (SUP) is something for everyone. You can set out for a relaxing swim on a calm lake or catch waves in the ocean. And you may want to do SUP yoga, or go for a fast-paced paddle to get some workout. Whatever your goals, getting the right board is the secret to your enjoyment. Within this buying guide, we’ll look at the key points you need to think about when choosing a board.
To find & to help you how to choose a paddle board for you, consider how you’re going to use it, how it suits your body, and how you want it to be treated in the water. The main decision points would be the shape of the board, the correct volume and capability as well as the right length, width and thickness. Whether you want a solid or inflatable board will mostly depend on how you transport it and how much storage space you have. From there, find the fins of a board and any additions or attachments that fit for you.
Have a look and find the best inflatable paddle board
Paddleboard Hull Types:
The hull or frame of the paddle board plays a crucial role in deciding how the boat works in the water. Most SUPs have either a plane hull or a displacement hull. There is a handful of hybrid designs that incorporate the best qualities of each design.
Beginner paddlers can enjoy any hull shape, but some variations make them better suited for certain activities than others. That’s why it’s smart to select a hull style based on how you expect to use your SUP.
Planing Hull
A plane hull is flat and wide, similar to a surfboard. It’s built to sit on top of the water and be very maneuverable. Planing hull boards are a popular option for recreational paddling, sailing, SUP yoga and white-water.
Displacement Hull
Paddle boards with displacement hulls have a pointed nose or bow (front end) similar to a kayak or canoe. The hull cuts through the water, forcing the water around the nose to the sides of the SUP to improve efficiency and build a quick, smooth trip. The performance of the displacement hull requires less effort than the padding hull, enabling you to travel longer distances at higher speeds. We still follow smooth and straight but are usually a little less maneuverable than the plane hulls.
Paddlers use displacement hulls for a variety of applications, but always with an eye to paddling efficiency and speed. Many of the activities include fitness paddling, SUP touring / camping and surfing.
Solid vs. Inflatable SUPs
Rolling hull and displacement hull SUPs are available in two different general construction styles: strong or inflatable.
Solid SUPs
Most strong boards have an EPS foam core covered in fiberglass and epoxy. This is a relatively lightweight, robust and inexpensive building. Carbon fiber is a lighter and stiffer alternative, but it is also more costly. Plastic SUPs are cheaper, but they are very heavy and lack the efficiency of other materials. Many SUPs are made of light wood for a stunning look.
Why get a solid SUP:
Quality is your priority: Solid boards deliver the best water efficiency. We fly quicker, easier with less effort than an inflatable. If paddling quick and far is your goal, a strong SUP is for you.
For ideal fit: Solid SUPs are available in a wider range of sizes and precisely tuned shapes than inflatable paddleboards, so you’re more likely to find one that fits you correctly.
Stability is essential: a solid paddleboard is a bit stiffer than an inflatable board, which can offer a more stable feel, mainly when riding waves. Strong boards also prefer to sit lower in the water, which can also produce a more comfortable feeling.
You’ve got a place to store it: Strong SUPs will take up a lot of space. If you have enough storage space in your garage and a vehicle that can handle it, then a strong SUP is a good option.
Inflatable SUPs
Inflatable SUPs feature a PVC exterior with a drop-stitch design that provides an air core. Inflatable paddleboards come with a pump to inflate the paddleboard and a storage bag when it’s not in use. The high-quality inflatable SUP is designed to be inflated to 12–15 pounds per square inch and should feel very rigid when fully inflated.
Why get an inflatable paddle board:
You have limited space for storage: if you live in a small house, condo or apartment, you may not have room for a big solid board. Inflatable SUPs are lightweight when deflated and can be conveniently placed in small spaces, such as a closet or a car trunk.
You’re traveling: whether you’re on a road trip or if you’re on a boat, you can take your inflatable SUP and do some paddling when you reach your destination. The inflatable can be checked on a plane or placed in a train, bus, or car packed in its storage bag. Most storage bags have backpack straps for fast handling.
You’re hiking to the lake: if you’re going to the alpine lake and you want to swim, you can’t have a solid surface. An inflatable stowed in his storage bag is still big, but it’s pretty much your only option.
You’re paddling white water: like a raft or an inflatable kayak, an inflatable SUP is better suited for navigating bumps around rocks and logs than a solid surface.
You like paddleboard yoga: you don’t have to get inflatable for SUP yoga, but they appear to be a little softer than solid surfaces, making them more comfortable for yoga poses.
SUP Volume and Weight
A SUP board have to fit with your size. When the board does not displace the appropriate amount of water for your weight, you will not be well supported, and the board will feel unstable. Board volume and weight capacity are two variables that influence how stable you feel and how well the board flows through the water.
Volume and weight capacity shall be determined by the length, width, and thickness of the plate. SUP manufacturers combine these three dimensions in a number of ways to achieve specific performance characteristics (see the SUP Height, SUP Width, and SUP Thickness parts of this article for more information).
Volume: The volume of the paddleboard, measured in liters, reflects the capacity of the vessel to float by weight. The higher the distance, the greater the weight that the board can bear. You will find the volume for the SUP specified in the pakaloa.com specification.
Weight Capacity: Each paddle board has a rider’s weight capacity, which is specified in pounds in the pakaloa.com specifications. Understanding weight capacity is vital because if you’re too big for a boat, it’s going to be lower in the water and difficult to paddle. If talking about weight power, consider the total amount of weight you are going to bring on the frame, including your body weight and the weight of any clothing, food, and drinking water you are going to carry with you.
Weight and capacity as it relates to the hull type: the majority of the hull boards are very forgiving, and as long as you are below the weight capacity, the board will perform well for you. Nevertheless, with the SUP displacement of the hull, volume and weight capability are more important. SUP manufacturers spend a lot of time deciding the most suitable location for the displacement boards to be in the water. If you overweight the displacement board and make it sink too far, it will drag and feel sluggish. When you’re too small for a board, you’re not going to sink it enough, and the board will feel heavy and difficult to manipulate.
Paddleboard Length
The length of the frame plays a crucial role in deciding the board’s handling. Generally, longer boards are quicker than shorter boards, but shorter boards are more maneuverable. Keep in mind your intended use when determining how long SUP to buy:
Shortboards (under 10) ‘are perfect for surfing and/or kids. Almost always, these boards have a planing hull. Shortboards are more maneuverable than long ones, making them ideal for surfing waves. Boards designed especially for children are typically around 8 ‘tall.
Medium boards (10 ‘to 12’) are suitable for all-round use and SUP yoga. Some of these boards have planing hulls, but sometime you’ll see the SUP displacement hull at this length.
Large boards (12’6 “and above) are perfect for easy paddling and long-distance touring. The bulk of the boards in this size range are SUP displacements. They’re quicker than the short and medium ones, so they seem to be straighter. If you’re interested in paddling quickly or traveling long distances, you’re going to want a long paddle.
While selecting a length, it is important to consider how it applies to volume and weight power. Longer boards can increase volume and capacity, which can make them feel more comfortable and allow them to hold more on board (width and thickness are also factors in volume and ability; see the SUP Width and SUP Thickness parts of this article).
Remember, too, the length of the board in terms of your type of vehicle, the home storage situation, and the duration of the walk to the beach or shore (longer boards are more difficult to carry, particularly in windy places).
Paddleboard Width
Width is another significant element that influences the way the board treats it. A wider board would also be more stable than a thin board, but bear in mind that a wider board can be slower and if the board is too wide for you, difficult to paddle. SUPs are manufactured in widths ranging from 25 inches to 36 inches to match a wide variety of needs.
When deciding how big your SUP should be, think about the type of paddling you’re doing, your body size and ability level:
The size of paddling: if you’re going on long tours that allow you to bring extra equipment, such as a food cooler and a tent, choose a paddle board wider in order to have more storage space. The same is true if you do SUP yoga; a board that is 31 inches long or more will allow you room and stability to make poses. Narrower decks, on the other hand, are quicker and more maneuverable, making them the alternative between racers and surfers.
Body size: Try to align the body type with the width of the SUP. Generally, if you’re a small person, go with a smaller board, and if you’re a big guy, go with a wider board. That is because a smaller person can usually find a balance on a narrow surface, while a larger person can fail to do so. Often, if you put a smaller person on a board that’s too large for them, they have to clumsily reach out to the side to bring their paddle in the water, resulting in an inefficient stroke.
Skill level: If you’ve paddled a lot, you could be confident on a smaller, quicker SUP. However, someone brand new to SUP would prefer a little extra width to make them feel more comfortable.
Like with range, width affects the total volume and weight efficiency, so you should select a width with this in mind. For example, if you have defined the length you want based on the type of paddling you want to use, you can choose the width (and/or thickness; see the paddleboard thickness section of this post) that gives you the correct volume and weight capacity of the board.
Paddleboard thickness
After finding a board with the length and width that makes the best sense to you and your paddling style, consider the third factor: the thickness of the board.
The key explanation for considering the thickness of the stand-up paddleboard is how it influences the total volume and weight power. If you look at two boards with the same length and width but with different thicknesses, the thicker the board has more volume than the thinner one and the higher the volume, the more weight it can bear.
Here’s how you might use thickness: you’ve decided that you want a long, thin, flat-water cruising surface. If you are a small individual, using a thin board will keep the total volume of the board lower so that you weight the board correctly for the most effective results.
Paddleboard Fins
Fins attach stability and monitoring to the paddleboard. Generally, larger fins with wider bases and longer front edges can track straighter and provide more stability than smaller fins. On the other hand, a smaller fin has greater maneuverability. Many of the fins are removable, so you can change out the fins and use them for storage.
There are several different choices for how the fins are mounted at the bottom of your SUP. Some of the common SUP fin configurations include:
Single fin: many SUPs have a single fin placed in a fin box and secured with a nut and screw. The fin box has a door for the fin to slide back and forth. The single fin offers good tracking and low drag, making it a good option for flat-water paddling.
3-fin rig: Also called a thruster, this configuration facilitates straight tracking on flat water and provides good power in surfing. The three fins are typical of the same size.
Configuration 2 + 1: This design involves a larger central fin with a smaller fin on either side of it. It is a growing configuration of SUPs built for surfing.
Finds for inflatable SUPs: Inflatable SUPs that have any of the fin configurations already specified. What sets them a part is that they have either flexible rubber fins fixed to the board or detachable semi-rigid fins.
SUP Additions and Accessories
How to Choose a Paddle Board & accessories: Depending on how you decide to use your SUP, you may want to look for a paddleboard with extra features, such as
Bungee straps / tied-down: often placed on the front and/or back of the board, these extended straps or tie-down spots are perfect for securing dry bags, clothes, and coolers.
Attachment points/mounts: Some boards have different attachment points for fishing rod holders, chairs, cameras, and more. Such parts are typically sold separately.
After buying a SUP, you need a few more main pieces of equipment to enjoy paddleboarding. These include:
Paddle: A paddleboard paddle looks a bit like a stretched-out canoe paddle with a tear-shaped blade that angles forward for optimum paddling capacity. The right length paddle should touch your wrist when you stand the paddle in front of you and lift your arm over your head.
PFD’s (Personal Flotation Device): The U.S. Coast Guard classifies paddleboards as boats (when used beyond the restricted limits of swimming or surfing areas), and you must wear a PFD. In our post, PFDs: How to Choose, learn how to pick the best PFD for you. Remember that the regulations also allow you to always bring a safety whistle and to have the light accessible if you are paddling after sunset.
Proper clothing: in cold temperatures where hypothermia is a problem, wear a wet suit or a dry suit. In milder temperatures, wear shorts and a t-shirt or bathing suit — something that travels with you and can get wet and dry easily.
Leash: Usually sold separately, a leash is tied to your SUP, holding it near when you fall off. Your paddleboard is a large flotation device, so attaching to it may be vital to your health. There are leashes built specifically for sailing, flat water, and rivers; be sure to buy the correct leash for your intended use.
Car rack: If you don’t have an inflatable SUP, you need a way to move your board to your car. There are special SUP racks built to match the crossbar of your roof rack, or you can use padding, such as foam blocks, inflatable blocks and utility straps to attach the board to the roof of your car.
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How to Choose a Paddle Board?
How to choose a paddle board? a quick guide to help you to choose a paddle board:
Stand up paddle boarding (SUP) is something for everyone. You can set out for a relaxing swim on a calm lake or catch waves in the ocean. And you may want to do SUP yoga, or go for a fast-paced paddle to get some workout. Whatever your goals, getting the right board is the secret to your enjoyment. Within this buying guide, we’ll look at the key points you need to think about when choosing a board.
To find & to help you how to choose a paddle board for you, consider how you’re going to use it, how it suits your body, and how you want it to be treated in the water. The main decision points would be the shape of the board, the correct volume and capability as well as the right length, width and thickness. Whether you want a solid or inflatable board will mostly depend on how you transport it and how much storage space you have. From there, find the fins of a board and any additions or attachments that fit for you.
Have a look and find the best inflatable paddle board
Paddleboard Hull Types:
The hull or frame of the paddle board plays a crucial role in deciding how the boat works in the water. Most SUPs have either a plane hull or a displacement hull. There is a handful of hybrid designs that incorporate the best qualities of each design.
Beginner paddlers can enjoy any hull shape, but some variations make them better suited for certain activities than others. That’s why it’s smart to select a hull style based on how you expect to use your SUP.
Planing Hull
A plane hull is flat and wide, similar to a surfboard. It’s built to sit on top of the water and be very maneuverable. Planing hull boards are a popular option for recreational paddling, sailing, SUP yoga and white-water.
Displacement Hull
Paddle boards with displacement hulls have a pointed nose or bow (front end) similar to a kayak or canoe. The hull cuts through the water, forcing the water around the nose to the sides of the SUP to improve efficiency and build a quick, smooth trip. The performance of the displacement hull requires less effort than the padding hull, enabling you to travel longer distances at higher speeds. We still follow smooth and straight but are usually a little less maneuverable than the plane hulls.
Paddlers use displacement hulls for a variety of applications, but always with an eye to paddling efficiency and speed. Many of the activities include fitness paddling, SUP touring / camping and surfing.
Solid vs. Inflatable SUPs
Rolling hull and displacement hull SUPs are available in two different general construction styles: strong or inflatable.
Solid SUPs
Most strong boards have an EPS foam core covered in fiberglass and epoxy. This is a relatively lightweight, robust and inexpensive building. Carbon fiber is a lighter and stiffer alternative, but it is also more costly. Plastic SUPs are cheaper, but they are very heavy and lack the efficiency of other materials. Many SUPs are made of light wood for a stunning look.
Why get a solid SUP:
Quality is your priority: Solid boards deliver the best water efficiency. We fly quicker, easier with less effort than an inflatable. If paddling quick and far is your goal, a strong SUP is for you.
For ideal fit: Solid SUPs are available in a wider range of sizes and precisely tuned shapes than inflatable paddleboards, so you’re more likely to find one that fits you correctly.
Stability is essential: a solid paddleboard is a bit stiffer than an inflatable board, which can offer a more stable feel, mainly when riding waves. Strong boards also prefer to sit lower in the water, which can also produce a more comfortable feeling.
You’ve got a place to store it: Strong SUPs will take up a lot of space. If you have enough storage space in your garage and a vehicle that can handle it, then a strong SUP is a good option.
Inflatable SUPs
Inflatable SUPs feature a PVC exterior with a drop-stitch design that provides an air core. Inflatable paddleboards come with a pump to inflate the paddleboard and a storage bag when it’s not in use. The high-quality inflatable SUP is designed to be inflated to 12–15 pounds per square inch and should feel very rigid when fully inflated.
Why get an inflatable paddle board:
You have limited space for storage: if you live in a small house, condo or apartment, you may not have room for a big solid board. Inflatable SUPs are lightweight when deflated and can be conveniently placed in small spaces, such as a closet or a car trunk.
You’re traveling: whether you’re on a road trip or if you’re on a boat, you can take your inflatable SUP and do some paddling when you reach your destination. The inflatable can be checked on a plane or placed in a train, bus, or car packed in its storage bag. Most storage bags have backpack straps for fast handling.
You’re hiking to the lake: if you’re going to the alpine lake and you want to swim, you can’t have a solid surface. An inflatable stowed in his storage bag is still big, but it’s pretty much your only option.
You’re paddling white water: like a raft or an inflatable kayak, an inflatable SUP is better suited for navigating bumps around rocks and logs than a solid surface.
You like paddleboard yoga: you don’t have to get inflatable for SUP yoga, but they appear to be a little softer than solid surfaces, making them more comfortable for yoga poses.
SUP Volume and Weight
A SUP board have to fit with your size. When the board does not displace the appropriate amount of water for your weight, you will not be well supported, and the board will feel unstable. Board volume and weight capacity are two variables that influence how stable you feel and how well the board flows through the water.
Volume and weight capacity shall be determined by the length, width, and thickness of the plate. SUP manufacturers combine these three dimensions in a number of ways to achieve specific performance characteristics (see the SUP Height, SUP Width, and SUP Thickness parts of this article for more information).
Volume: The volume of the paddleboard, measured in liters, reflects the capacity of the vessel to float by weight. The higher the distance, the greater the weight that the board can bear. You will find the volume for the SUP specified in the pakaloa.com specification.
Weight Capacity: Each paddle board has a rider’s weight capacity, which is specified in pounds in the pakaloa.com specifications. Understanding weight capacity is vital because if you’re too big for a boat, it’s going to be lower in the water and difficult to paddle. If talking about weight power, consider the total amount of weight you are going to bring on the frame, including your body weight and the weight of any clothing, food, and drinking water you are going to carry with you.
Weight and capacity as it relates to the hull type: the majority of the hull boards are very forgiving, and as long as you are below the weight capacity, the board will perform well for you. Nevertheless, with the SUP displacement of the hull, volume and weight capability are more important. SUP manufacturers spend a lot of time deciding the most suitable location for the displacement boards to be in the water. If you overweight the displacement board and make it sink too far, it will drag and feel sluggish. When you’re too small for a board, you’re not going to sink it enough, and the board will feel heavy and difficult to manipulate.
Paddleboard Length
The length of the frame plays a crucial role in deciding the board’s handling. Generally, longer boards are quicker than shorter boards, but shorter boards are more maneuverable. Keep in mind your intended use when determining how long SUP to buy:
Shortboards (under 10) ‘are perfect for surfing and/or kids. Almost always, these boards have a planing hull. Shortboards are more maneuverable than long ones, making them ideal for surfing waves. Boards designed especially for children are typically around 8 ‘tall.
Medium boards (10 ‘to 12’) are suitable for all-round use and SUP yoga. Some of these boards have planing hulls, but sometime you’ll see the SUP displacement hull at this length.
Large boards (12’6 “and above) are perfect for easy paddling and long-distance touring. The bulk of the boards in this size range are SUP displacements. They’re quicker than the short and medium ones, so they seem to be straighter. If you’re interested in paddling quickly or traveling long distances, you’re going to want a long paddle.
While selecting a length, it is important to consider how it applies to volume and weight power. Longer boards can increase volume and capacity, which can make them feel more comfortable and allow them to hold more on board (width and thickness are also factors in volume and ability; see the SUP Width and SUP Thickness parts of this article).
Remember, too, the length of the board in terms of your type of vehicle, the home storage situation, and the duration of the walk to the beach or shore (longer boards are more difficult to carry, particularly in windy places).
Paddleboard Width
Width is another significant element that influences the way the board treats it. A wider board would also be more stable than a thin board, but bear in mind that a wider board can be slower and if the board is too wide for you, difficult to paddle. SUPs are manufactured in widths ranging from 25 inches to 36 inches to match a wide variety of needs.
When deciding how big your SUP should be, think about the type of paddling you’re doing, your body size and ability level:
The size of paddling: if you’re going on long tours that allow you to bring extra equipment, such as a food cooler and a tent, choose a paddle board wider in order to have more storage space. The same is true if you do SUP yoga; a board that is 31 inches long or more will allow you room and stability to make poses. Narrower decks, on the other hand, are quicker and more maneuverable, making them the alternative between racers and surfers.
Body size: Try to align the body type with the width of the SUP. Generally, if you’re a small person, go with a smaller board, and if you’re a big guy, go with a wider board. That is because a smaller person can usually find a balance on a narrow surface, while a larger person can fail to do so. Often, if you put a smaller person on a board that’s too large for them, they have to clumsily reach out to the side to bring their paddle in the water, resulting in an inefficient stroke.
Skill level: If you’ve paddled a lot, you could be confident on a smaller, quicker SUP. However, someone brand new to SUP would prefer a little extra width to make them feel more comfortable.
Like with range, width affects the total volume and weight efficiency, so you should select a width with this in mind. For example, if you have defined the length you want based on the type of paddling you want to use, you can choose the width (and/or thickness; see the paddleboard thickness section of this post) that gives you the correct volume and weight capacity of the board.
Paddleboard thickness
After finding a board with the length and width that makes the best sense to you and your paddling style, consider the third factor: the thickness of the board.
The key explanation for considering the thickness of the stand-up paddleboard is how it influences the total volume and weight power. If you look at two boards with the same length and width but with different thicknesses, the thicker the board has more volume than the thinner one and the higher the volume, the more weight it can bear.
Here’s how you might use thickness: you’ve decided that you want a long, thin, flat-water cruising surface. If you are a small individual, using a thin board will keep the total volume of the board lower so that you weight the board correctly for the most effective results.
Paddleboard Fins
Fins attach stability and monitoring to the paddleboard. Generally, larger fins with wider bases and longer front edges can track straighter and provide more stability than smaller fins. On the other hand, a smaller fin has greater maneuverability. Many of the fins are removable, so you can change out the fins and use them for storage.
There are several different choices for how the fins are mounted at the bottom of your SUP. Some of the common SUP fin configurations include:
Single fin: many SUPs have a single fin placed in a fin box and secured with a nut and screw. The fin box has a door for the fin to slide back and forth. The single fin offers good tracking and low drag, making it a good option for flat-water paddling.
3-fin rig: Also called a thruster, this configuration facilitates straight tracking on flat water and provides good power in surfing. The three fins are typical of the same size.
Configuration 2 + 1: This design involves a larger central fin with a smaller fin on either side of it. It is a growing configuration of SUPs built for surfing.
Finds for inflatable SUPs: Inflatable SUPs that have any of the fin configurations already specified. What sets them a part is that they have either flexible rubber fins fixed to the board or detachable semi-rigid fins.
SUP Additions and Accessories
How to Choose a Paddle Board & accessories: Depending on how you decide to use your SUP, you may want to look for a paddleboard with extra features, such as
Bungee straps / tied-down: often placed on the front and/or back of the board, these extended straps or tie-down spots are perfect for securing dry bags, clothes, and coolers.
Attachment points/mounts: Some boards have different attachment points for fishing rod holders, chairs, cameras, and more. Such parts are typically sold separately.
After buying a SUP, you need a few more main pieces of equipment to enjoy paddleboarding. These include:
Paddle: A paddleboard paddle looks a bit like a stretched-out canoe paddle with a tear-shaped blade that angles forward for optimum paddling capacity. The right length paddle should touch your wrist when you stand the paddle in front of you and lift your arm over your head.
PFD’s (Personal Flotation Device): The U.S. Coast Guard classifies paddleboards as boats (when used beyond the restricted limits of swimming or surfing areas), and you must wear a PFD. In our post, PFDs: How to Choose, learn how to pick the best PFD for you. Remember that the regulations also allow you to always bring a safety whistle and to have the light accessible if you are paddling after sunset.
Proper clothing: in cold temperatures where hypothermia is a problem, wear a wet suit or a dry suit. In milder temperatures, wear shorts and a t-shirt or bathing suit — something that travels with you and can get wet and dry easily.
Leash: Usually sold separately, a leash is tied to your SUP, holding it near when you fall off. Your paddleboard is a large flotation device, so attaching to it may be vital to your health. There are leashes built specifically for sailing, flat water, and rivers; be sure to buy the correct leash for your intended use.
Car rack: If you don’t have an inflatable SUP, you need a way to move your board to your car. There are special SUP racks built to match the crossbar of your roof rack, or you can use padding, such as foam blocks, inflatable blocks and utility straps to attach the board to the roof of your car.
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The post How to Choose a Paddle Board? appeared first on Pakaloa SUP
from https://www.pakaloa.com/how-to-choose-a-paddle-board/ from Paddle Board Rental https://paddleboardrental2.blogspot.com/2020/04/how-to-choose-paddle-board.html
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Text
How to Choose a Paddle Board?
How to choose a paddle board? a quick guide to help you to choose a paddle board:
Stand up paddle boarding (SUP) is something for everyone. You can set out for a relaxing swim on a calm lake or catch waves in the ocean. And you may want to do SUP yoga, or go for a fast-paced paddle to get some workout. Whatever your goals, getting the right board is the secret to your enjoyment. Within this buying guide, we’ll look at the key points you need to think about when choosing a board.
To find & to help you how to choose a paddle board for you, consider how you’re going to use it, how it suits your body, and how you want it to be treated in the water. The main decision points would be the shape of the board, the correct volume and capability as well as the right length, width and thickness. Whether you want a solid or inflatable board will mostly depend on how you transport it and how much storage space you have. From there, find the fins of a board and any additions or attachments that fit for you.
Have a look and find the best inflatable paddle board
Paddleboard Hull Types:
The hull or frame of the paddle board plays a crucial role in deciding how the boat works in the water. Most SUPs have either a plane hull or a displacement hull. There is a handful of hybrid designs that incorporate the best qualities of each design.
Beginner paddlers can enjoy any hull shape, but some variations make them better suited for certain activities than others. That’s why it’s smart to select a hull style based on how you expect to use your SUP.
Planing Hull
A plane hull is flat and wide, similar to a surfboard. It’s built to sit on top of the water and be very maneuverable. Planing hull boards are a popular option for recreational paddling, sailing, SUP yoga and white-water.
Displacement Hull
Paddle boards with displacement hulls have a pointed nose or bow (front end) similar to a kayak or canoe. The hull cuts through the water, forcing the water around the nose to the sides of the SUP to improve efficiency and build a quick, smooth trip. The performance of the displacement hull requires less effort than the padding hull, enabling you to travel longer distances at higher speeds. We still follow smooth and straight but are usually a little less maneuverable than the plane hulls.
Paddlers use displacement hulls for a variety of applications, but always with an eye to paddling efficiency and speed. Many of the activities include fitness paddling, SUP touring / camping and surfing.
Solid vs. Inflatable SUPs
Rolling hull and displacement hull SUPs are available in two different general construction styles: strong or inflatable.
Solid SUPs
Most strong boards have an EPS foam core covered in fiberglass and epoxy. This is a relatively lightweight, robust and inexpensive building. Carbon fiber is a lighter and stiffer alternative, but it is also more costly. Plastic SUPs are cheaper, but they are very heavy and lack the efficiency of other materials. Many SUPs are made of light wood for a stunning look.
Why get a solid SUP:
Quality is your priority: Solid boards deliver the best water efficiency. We fly quicker, easier with less effort than an inflatable. If paddling quick and far is your goal, a strong SUP is for you.
For ideal fit: Solid SUPs are available in a wider range of sizes and precisely tuned shapes than inflatable paddleboards, so you’re more likely to find one that fits you correctly.
Stability is essential: a solid paddleboard is a bit stiffer than an inflatable board, which can offer a more stable feel, mainly when riding waves. Strong boards also prefer to sit lower in the water, which can also produce a more comfortable feeling.
You’ve got a place to store it: Strong SUPs will take up a lot of space. If you have enough storage space in your garage and a vehicle that can handle it, then a strong SUP is a good option.
Inflatable SUPs
Inflatable SUPs feature a PVC exterior with a drop-stitch design that provides an air core. Inflatable paddleboards come with a pump to inflate the paddleboard and a storage bag when it’s not in use. The high-quality inflatable SUP is designed to be inflated to 12–15 pounds per square inch and should feel very rigid when fully inflated.
Why get an inflatable paddle board:
You have limited space for storage: if you live in a small house, condo or apartment, you may not have room for a big solid board. Inflatable SUPs are lightweight when deflated and can be conveniently placed in small spaces, such as a closet or a car trunk.
You’re traveling: whether you’re on a road trip or if you’re on a boat, you can take your inflatable SUP and do some paddling when you reach your destination. The inflatable can be checked on a plane or placed in a train, bus, or car packed in its storage bag. Most storage bags have backpack straps for fast handling.
You’re hiking to the lake: if you’re going to the alpine lake and you want to swim, you can’t have a solid surface. An inflatable stowed in his storage bag is still big, but it’s pretty much your only option.
You’re paddling white water: like a raft or an inflatable kayak, an inflatable SUP is better suited for navigating bumps around rocks and logs than a solid surface.
You like paddleboard yoga: you don’t have to get inflatable for SUP yoga, but they appear to be a little softer than solid surfaces, making them more comfortable for yoga poses.
SUP Volume and Weight
A SUP board have to fit with your size. When the board does not displace the appropriate amount of water for your weight, you will not be well supported, and the board will feel unstable. Board volume and weight capacity are two variables that influence how stable you feel and how well the board flows through the water.
Volume and weight capacity shall be determined by the length, width, and thickness of the plate. SUP manufacturers combine these three dimensions in a number of ways to achieve specific performance characteristics (see the SUP Height, SUP Width, and SUP Thickness parts of this article for more information).
Volume: The volume of the paddleboard, measured in liters, reflects the capacity of the vessel to float by weight. The higher the distance, the greater the weight that the board can bear. You will find the volume for the SUP specified in the pakaloa.com specification.
Weight Capacity: Each paddle board has a rider’s weight capacity, which is specified in pounds in the pakaloa.com specifications. Understanding weight capacity is vital because if you’re too big for a boat, it’s going to be lower in the water and difficult to paddle. If talking about weight power, consider the total amount of weight you are going to bring on the frame, including your body weight and the weight of any clothing, food, and drinking water you are going to carry with you.
Weight and capacity as it relates to the hull type: the majority of the hull boards are very forgiving, and as long as you are below the weight capacity, the board will perform well for you. Nevertheless, with the SUP displacement of the hull, volume and weight capability are more important. SUP manufacturers spend a lot of time deciding the most suitable location for the displacement boards to be in the water. If you overweight the displacement board and make it sink too far, it will drag and feel sluggish. When you’re too small for a board, you’re not going to sink it enough, and the board will feel heavy and difficult to manipulate.
Paddleboard Length
The length of the frame plays a crucial role in deciding the board’s handling. Generally, longer boards are quicker than shorter boards, but shorter boards are more maneuverable. Keep in mind your intended use when determining how long SUP to buy:
Shortboards (under 10) ‘are perfect for surfing and/or kids. Almost always, these boards have a planing hull. Shortboards are more maneuverable than long ones, making them ideal for surfing waves. Boards designed especially for children are typically around 8 ‘tall.
Medium boards (10 ‘to 12’) are suitable for all-round use and SUP yoga. Some of these boards have planing hulls, but sometime you’ll see the SUP displacement hull at this length.
Large boards (12’6 “and above) are perfect for easy paddling and long-distance touring. The bulk of the boards in this size range are SUP displacements. They’re quicker than the short and medium ones, so they seem to be straighter. If you’re interested in paddling quickly or traveling long distances, you’re going to want a long paddle.
While selecting a length, it is important to consider how it applies to volume and weight power. Longer boards can increase volume and capacity, which can make them feel more comfortable and allow them to hold more on board (width and thickness are also factors in volume and ability; see the SUP Width and SUP Thickness parts of this article).
Remember, too, the length of the board in terms of your type of vehicle, the home storage situation, and the duration of the walk to the beach or shore (longer boards are more difficult to carry, particularly in windy places).
Paddleboard Width
Width is another significant element that influences the way the board treats it. A wider board would also be more stable than a thin board, but bear in mind that a wider board can be slower and if the board is too wide for you, difficult to paddle. SUPs are manufactured in widths ranging from 25 inches to 36 inches to match a wide variety of needs.
When deciding how big your SUP should be, think about the type of paddling you’re doing, your body size and ability level:
The size of paddling: if you’re going on long tours that allow you to bring extra equipment, such as a food cooler and a tent, choose a paddle board wider in order to have more storage space. The same is true if you do SUP yoga; a board that is 31 inches long or more will allow you room and stability to make poses. Narrower decks, on the other hand, are quicker and more maneuverable, making them the alternative between racers and surfers.
Body size: Try to align the body type with the width of the SUP. Generally, if you’re a small person, go with a smaller board, and if you’re a big guy, go with a wider board. That is because a smaller person can usually find a balance on a narrow surface, while a larger person can fail to do so. Often, if you put a smaller person on a board that’s too large for them, they have to clumsily reach out to the side to bring their paddle in the water, resulting in an inefficient stroke.
Skill level: If you’ve paddled a lot, you could be confident on a smaller, quicker SUP. However, someone brand new to SUP would prefer a little extra width to make them feel more comfortable.
Like with range, width affects the total volume and weight efficiency, so you should select a width with this in mind. For example, if you have defined the length you want based on the type of paddling you want to use, you can choose the width (and/or thickness; see the paddleboard thickness section of this post) that gives you the correct volume and weight capacity of the board.
Paddleboard thickness
After finding a board with the length and width that makes the best sense to you and your paddling style, consider the third factor: the thickness of the board.
The key explanation for considering the thickness of the stand-up paddleboard is how it influences the total volume and weight power. If you look at two boards with the same length and width but with different thicknesses, the thicker the board has more volume than the thinner one and the higher the volume, the more weight it can bear.
Here’s how you might use thickness: you’ve decided that you want a long, thin, flat-water cruising surface. If you are a small individual, using a thin board will keep the total volume of the board lower so that you weight the board correctly for the most effective results.
Paddleboard Fins
Fins attach stability and monitoring to the paddleboard. Generally, larger fins with wider bases and longer front edges can track straighter and provide more stability than smaller fins. On the other hand, a smaller fin has greater maneuverability. Many of the fins are removable, so you can change out the fins and use them for storage.
There are several different choices for how the fins are mounted at the bottom of your SUP. Some of the common SUP fin configurations include:
Single fin: many SUPs have a single fin placed in a fin box and secured with a nut and screw. The fin box has a door for the fin to slide back and forth. The single fin offers good tracking and low drag, making it a good option for flat-water paddling.
3-fin rig: Also called a thruster, this configuration facilitates straight tracking on flat water and provides good power in surfing. The three fins are typical of the same size.
Configuration 2 + 1: This design involves a larger central fin with a smaller fin on either side of it. It is a growing configuration of SUPs built for surfing.
Finds for inflatable SUPs: Inflatable SUPs that have any of the fin configurations already specified. What sets them a part is that they have either flexible rubber fins fixed to the board or detachable semi-rigid fins.
SUP Additions and Accessories
How to Choose a Paddle Board & accessories: Depending on how you decide to use your SUP, you may want to look for a paddleboard with extra features, such as
Bungee straps / tied-down: often placed on the front and/or back of the board, these extended straps or tie-down spots are perfect for securing dry bags, clothes, and coolers.
Attachment points/mounts: Some boards have different attachment points for fishing rod holders, chairs, cameras, and more. Such parts are typically sold separately.
After buying a SUP, you need a few more main pieces of equipment to enjoy paddleboarding. These include:
Paddle: A paddleboard paddle looks a bit like a stretched-out canoe paddle with a tear-shaped blade that angles forward for optimum paddling capacity. The right length paddle should touch your wrist when you stand the paddle in front of you and lift your arm over your head.
PFD’s (Personal Flotation Device): The U.S. Coast Guard classifies paddleboards as boats (when used beyond the restricted limits of swimming or surfing areas), and you must wear a PFD. In our post, PFDs: How to Choose, learn how to pick the best PFD for you. Remember that the regulations also allow you to always bring a safety whistle and to have the light accessible if you are paddling after sunset.
Proper clothing: in cold temperatures where hypothermia is a problem, wear a wet suit or a dry suit. In milder temperatures, wear shorts and a t-shirt or bathing suit — something that travels with you and can get wet and dry easily.
Leash: Usually sold separately, a leash is tied to your SUP, holding it near when you fall off. Your paddleboard is a large flotation device, so attaching to it may be vital to your health. There are leashes built specifically for sailing, flat water, and rivers; be sure to buy the correct leash for your intended use.
Car rack: If you don’t have an inflatable SUP, you need a way to move your board to your car. There are special SUP racks built to match the crossbar of your roof rack, or you can use padding, such as foam blocks, inflatable blocks and utility straps to attach the board to the roof of your car.
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How to Choose a Paddle Board?
How to choose a paddle board? a quick guide to help you to choose a paddle board:
Stand up paddle boarding (SUP) is something for everyone. You can set out for a relaxing swim on a calm lake or catch waves in the ocean. And you may want to do SUP yoga, or go for a fast-paced paddle to get some workout. Whatever your goals, getting the right board is the secret to your enjoyment. Within this buying guide, we’ll look at the key points you need to think about when choosing a board.
To find & to help you how to choose a paddle board for you, consider how you’re going to use it, how it suits your body, and how you want it to be treated in the water. The main decision points would be the shape of the board, the correct volume and capability as well as the right length, width and thickness. Whether you want a solid or inflatable board will mostly depend on how you transport it and how much storage space you have. From there, find the fins of a board and any additions or attachments that fit for you.
Have a look and find the best inflatable paddle board
Paddleboard Hull Types:
The hull or frame of the paddle board plays a crucial role in deciding how the boat works in the water. Most SUPs have either a plane hull or a displacement hull. There is a handful of hybrid designs that incorporate the best qualities of each design.
Beginner paddlers can enjoy any hull shape, but some variations make them better suited for certain activities than others. That’s why it’s smart to select a hull style based on how you expect to use your SUP.
Planing Hull
A plane hull is flat and wide, similar to a surfboard. It’s built to sit on top of the water and be very maneuverable. Planing hull boards are a popular option for recreational paddling, sailing, SUP yoga and white-water.
Displacement Hull
Paddle boards with displacement hulls have a pointed nose or bow (front end) similar to a kayak or canoe. The hull cuts through the water, forcing the water around the nose to the sides of the SUP to improve efficiency and build a quick, smooth trip. The performance of the displacement hull requires less effort than the padding hull, enabling you to travel longer distances at higher speeds. We still follow smooth and straight but are usually a little less maneuverable than the plane hulls.
Paddlers use displacement hulls for a variety of applications, but always with an eye to paddling efficiency and speed. Many of the activities include fitness paddling, SUP touring / camping and surfing.
Solid vs. Inflatable SUPs
Rolling hull and displacement hull SUPs are available in two different general construction styles: strong or inflatable.
Solid SUPs
Most strong boards have an EPS foam core covered in fiberglass and epoxy. This is a relatively lightweight, robust and inexpensive building. Carbon fiber is a lighter and stiffer alternative, but it is also more costly. Plastic SUPs are cheaper, but they are very heavy and lack the efficiency of other materials. Many SUPs are made of light wood for a stunning look.
Why get a solid SUP:
Quality is your priority: Solid boards deliver the best water efficiency. We fly quicker, easier with less effort than an inflatable. If paddling quick and far is your goal, a strong SUP is for you.
For ideal fit: Solid SUPs are available in a wider range of sizes and precisely tuned shapes than inflatable paddleboards, so you’re more likely to find one that fits you correctly.
Stability is essential: a solid paddleboard is a bit stiffer than an inflatable board, which can offer a more stable feel, mainly when riding waves. Strong boards also prefer to sit lower in the water, which can also produce a more comfortable feeling.
You’ve got a place to store it: Strong SUPs will take up a lot of space. If you have enough storage space in your garage and a vehicle that can handle it, then a strong SUP is a good option.
Inflatable SUPs
Inflatable SUPs feature a PVC exterior with a drop-stitch design that provides an air core. Inflatable paddleboards come with a pump to inflate the paddleboard and a storage bag when it’s not in use. The high-quality inflatable SUP is designed to be inflated to 12–15 pounds per square inch and should feel very rigid when fully inflated.
Why get an inflatable paddle board:
You have limited space for storage: if you live in a small house, condo or apartment, you may not have room for a big solid board. Inflatable SUPs are lightweight when deflated and can be conveniently placed in small spaces, such as a closet or a car trunk.
You’re traveling: whether you’re on a road trip or if you’re on a boat, you can take your inflatable SUP and do some paddling when you reach your destination. The inflatable can be checked on a plane or placed in a train, bus, or car packed in its storage bag. Most storage bags have backpack straps for fast handling.
You’re hiking to the lake: if you’re going to the alpine lake and you want to swim, you can’t have a solid surface. An inflatable stowed in his storage bag is still big, but it’s pretty much your only option.
You’re paddling white water: like a raft or an inflatable kayak, an inflatable SUP is better suited for navigating bumps around rocks and logs than a solid surface.
You like paddleboard yoga: you don’t have to get inflatable for SUP yoga, but they appear to be a little softer than solid surfaces, making them more comfortable for yoga poses.
SUP Volume and Weight
A SUP board have to fit with your size. When the board does not displace the appropriate amount of water for your weight, you will not be well supported, and the board will feel unstable. Board volume and weight capacity are two variables that influence how stable you feel and how well the board flows through the water.
Volume and weight capacity shall be determined by the length, width, and thickness of the plate. SUP manufacturers combine these three dimensions in a number of ways to achieve specific performance characteristics (see the SUP Height, SUP Width, and SUP Thickness parts of this article for more information).
Volume: The volume of the paddleboard, measured in liters, reflects the capacity of the vessel to float by weight. The higher the distance, the greater the weight that the board can bear. You will find the volume for the SUP specified in the pakaloa.com specification.
Weight Capacity: Each paddle board has a rider’s weight capacity, which is specified in pounds in the pakaloa.com specifications. Understanding weight capacity is vital because if you’re too big for a boat, it’s going to be lower in the water and difficult to paddle. If talking about weight power, consider the total amount of weight you are going to bring on the frame, including your body weight and the weight of any clothing, food, and drinking water you are going to carry with you.
Weight and capacity as it relates to the hull type: the majority of the hull boards are very forgiving, and as long as you are below the weight capacity, the board will perform well for you. Nevertheless, with the SUP displacement of the hull, volume and weight capability are more important. SUP manufacturers spend a lot of time deciding the most suitable location for the displacement boards to be in the water. If you overweight the displacement board and make it sink too far, it will drag and feel sluggish. When you’re too small for a board, you’re not going to sink it enough, and the board will feel heavy and difficult to manipulate.
Paddleboard Length
The length of the frame plays a crucial role in deciding the board’s handling. Generally, longer boards are quicker than shorter boards, but shorter boards are more maneuverable. Keep in mind your intended use when determining how long SUP to buy:
Shortboards (under 10) ‘are perfect for surfing and/or kids. Almost always, these boards have a planing hull. Shortboards are more maneuverable than long ones, making them ideal for surfing waves. Boards designed especially for children are typically around 8 ‘tall.
Medium boards (10 ‘to 12’) are suitable for all-round use and SUP yoga. Some of these boards have planing hulls, but sometime you’ll see the SUP displacement hull at this length.
Large boards (12’6 “and above) are perfect for easy paddling and long-distance touring. The bulk of the boards in this size range are SUP displacements. They’re quicker than the short and medium ones, so they seem to be straighter. If you’re interested in paddling quickly or traveling long distances, you’re going to want a long paddle.
While selecting a length, it is important to consider how it applies to volume and weight power. Longer boards can increase volume and capacity, which can make them feel more comfortable and allow them to hold more on board (width and thickness are also factors in volume and ability; see the SUP Width and SUP Thickness parts of this article).
Remember, too, the length of the board in terms of your type of vehicle, the home storage situation, and the duration of the walk to the beach or shore (longer boards are more difficult to carry, particularly in windy places).
Paddleboard Width
Width is another significant element that influences the way the board treats it. A wider board would also be more stable than a thin board, but bear in mind that a wider board can be slower and if the board is too wide for you, difficult to paddle. SUPs are manufactured in widths ranging from 25 inches to 36 inches to match a wide variety of needs.
When deciding how big your SUP should be, think about the type of paddling you’re doing, your body size and ability level:
The size of paddling: if you’re going on long tours that allow you to bring extra equipment, such as a food cooler and a tent, choose a paddle board wider in order to have more storage space. The same is true if you do SUP yoga; a board that is 31 inches long or more will allow you room and stability to make poses. Narrower decks, on the other hand, are quicker and more maneuverable, making them the alternative between racers and surfers.
Body size: Try to align the body type with the width of the SUP. Generally, if you’re a small person, go with a smaller board, and if you’re a big guy, go with a wider board. That is because a smaller person can usually find a balance on a narrow surface, while a larger person can fail to do so. Often, if you put a smaller person on a board that’s too large for them, they have to clumsily reach out to the side to bring their paddle in the water, resulting in an inefficient stroke.
Skill level: If you’ve paddled a lot, you could be confident on a smaller, quicker SUP. However, someone brand new to SUP would prefer a little extra width to make them feel more comfortable.
Like with range, width affects the total volume and weight efficiency, so you should select a width with this in mind. For example, if you have defined the length you want based on the type of paddling you want to use, you can choose the width (and/or thickness; see the paddleboard thickness section of this post) that gives you the correct volume and weight capacity of the board.
Paddleboard thickness
After finding a board with the length and width that makes the best sense to you and your paddling style, consider the third factor: the thickness of the board.
The key explanation for considering the thickness of the stand-up paddleboard is how it influences the total volume and weight power. If you look at two boards with the same length and width but with different thicknesses, the thicker the board has more volume than the thinner one and the higher the volume, the more weight it can bear.
Here’s how you might use thickness: you’ve decided that you want a long, thin, flat-water cruising surface. If you are a small individual, using a thin board will keep the total volume of the board lower so that you weight the board correctly for the most effective results.
Paddleboard Fins
Fins attach stability and monitoring to the paddleboard. Generally, larger fins with wider bases and longer front edges can track straighter and provide more stability than smaller fins. On the other hand, a smaller fin has greater maneuverability. Many of the fins are removable, so you can change out the fins and use them for storage.
There are several different choices for how the fins are mounted at the bottom of your SUP. Some of the common SUP fin configurations include:
Single fin: many SUPs have a single fin placed in a fin box and secured with a nut and screw. The fin box has a door for the fin to slide back and forth. The single fin offers good tracking and low drag, making it a good option for flat-water paddling.
3-fin rig: Also called a thruster, this configuration facilitates straight tracking on flat water and provides good power in surfing. The three fins are typical of the same size.
Configuration 2 + 1: This design involves a larger central fin with a smaller fin on either side of it. It is a growing configuration of SUPs built for surfing.
Finds for inflatable SUPs: Inflatable SUPs that have any of the fin configurations already specified. What sets them a part is that they have either flexible rubber fins fixed to the board or detachable semi-rigid fins.
SUP Additions and Accessories
How to Choose a Paddle Board & accessories: Depending on how you decide to use your SUP, you may want to look for a paddleboard with extra features, such as
Bungee straps / tied-down: often placed on the front and/or back of the board, these extended straps or tie-down spots are perfect for securing dry bags, clothes, and coolers.
Attachment points/mounts: Some boards have different attachment points for fishing rod holders, chairs, cameras, and more. Such parts are typically sold separately.
After buying a SUP, you need a few more main pieces of equipment to enjoy paddleboarding. These include:
Paddle: A paddleboard paddle looks a bit like a stretched-out canoe paddle with a tear-shaped blade that angles forward for optimum paddling capacity. The right length paddle should touch your wrist when you stand the paddle in front of you and lift your arm over your head.
PFD’s (Personal Flotation Device): The U.S. Coast Guard classifies paddleboards as boats (when used beyond the restricted limits of swimming or surfing areas), and you must wear a PFD. In our post, PFDs: How to Choose, learn how to pick the best PFD for you. Remember that the regulations also allow you to always bring a safety whistle and to have the light accessible if you are paddling after sunset.
Proper clothing: in cold temperatures where hypothermia is a problem, wear a wet suit or a dry suit. In milder temperatures, wear shorts and a t-shirt or bathing suit — something that travels with you and can get wet and dry easily.
Leash: Usually sold separately, a leash is tied to your SUP, holding it near when you fall off. Your paddleboard is a large flotation device, so attaching to it may be vital to your health. There are leashes built specifically for sailing, flat water, and rivers; be sure to buy the correct leash for your intended use.
Car rack: If you don’t have an inflatable SUP, you need a way to move your board to your car. There are special SUP racks built to match the crossbar of your roof rack, or you can use padding, such as foam blocks, inflatable blocks and utility straps to attach the board to the roof of your car.
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How to Choose a Paddle Board?
How to choose a paddle board? a quick guide to help you to choose a paddle board:
Stand up paddle boarding (SUP) is something for everyone. You can set out for a relaxing swim on a calm lake or catch waves in the ocean. And you may want to do SUP yoga, or go for a fast-paced paddle to get some workout. Whatever your goals, getting the right board is the secret to your enjoyment. Within this buying guide, we’ll look at the key points you need to think about when choosing a board.
To find & to help you how to choose a paddle board for you, consider how you’re going to use it, how it suits your body, and how you want it to be treated in the water. The main decision points would be the shape of the board, the correct volume and capability as well as the right length, width and thickness. Whether you want a solid or inflatable board will mostly depend on how you transport it and how much storage space you have. From there, find the fins of a board and any additions or attachments that fit for you.
Have a look and find the best inflatable paddle board
Paddleboard Hull Types:
The hull or frame of the paddle board plays a crucial role in deciding how the boat works in the water. Most SUPs have either a plane hull or a displacement hull. There is a handful of hybrid designs that incorporate the best qualities of each design.
Beginner paddlers can enjoy any hull shape, but some variations make them better suited for certain activities than others. That’s why it’s smart to select a hull style based on how you expect to use your SUP.
Planing Hull
A plane hull is flat and wide, similar to a surfboard. It’s built to sit on top of the water and be very maneuverable. Planing hull boards are a popular option for recreational paddling, sailing, SUP yoga and white-water.
Displacement Hull
Paddle boards with displacement hulls have a pointed nose or bow (front end) similar to a kayak or canoe. The hull cuts through the water, forcing the water around the nose to the sides of the SUP to improve efficiency and build a quick, smooth trip. The performance of the displacement hull requires less effort than the padding hull, enabling you to travel longer distances at higher speeds. We still follow smooth and straight but are usually a little less maneuverable than the plane hulls.
Paddlers use displacement hulls for a variety of applications, but always with an eye to paddling efficiency and speed. Many of the activities include fitness paddling, SUP touring / camping and surfing.
Solid vs. Inflatable SUPs
Rolling hull and displacement hull SUPs are available in two different general construction styles: strong or inflatable.
Solid SUPs
Most strong boards have an EPS foam core covered in fiberglass and epoxy. This is a relatively lightweight, robust and inexpensive building. Carbon fiber is a lighter and stiffer alternative, but it is also more costly. Plastic SUPs are cheaper, but they are very heavy and lack the efficiency of other materials. Many SUPs are made of light wood for a stunning look.
Why get a solid SUP:
Quality is your priority: Solid boards deliver the best water efficiency. We fly quicker, easier with less effort than an inflatable. If paddling quick and far is your goal, a strong SUP is for you.
For ideal fit: Solid SUPs are available in a wider range of sizes and precisely tuned shapes than inflatable paddleboards, so you’re more likely to find one that fits you correctly.
Stability is essential: a solid paddleboard is a bit stiffer than an inflatable board, which can offer a more stable feel, mainly when riding waves. Strong boards also prefer to sit lower in the water, which can also produce a more comfortable feeling.
You’ve got a place to store it: Strong SUPs will take up a lot of space. If you have enough storage space in your garage and a vehicle that can handle it, then a strong SUP is a good option.
Inflatable SUPs
Inflatable SUPs feature a PVC exterior with a drop-stitch design that provides an air core. Inflatable paddleboards come with a pump to inflate the paddleboard and a storage bag when it’s not in use. The high-quality inflatable SUP is designed to be inflated to 12–15 pounds per square inch and should feel very rigid when fully inflated.
Why get an inflatable paddle board:
You have limited space for storage: if you live in a small house, condo or apartment, you may not have room for a big solid board. Inflatable SUPs are lightweight when deflated and can be conveniently placed in small spaces, such as a closet or a car trunk.
You’re traveling: whether you’re on a road trip or if you’re on a boat, you can take your inflatable SUP and do some paddling when you reach your destination. The inflatable can be checked on a plane or placed in a train, bus, or car packed in its storage bag. Most storage bags have backpack straps for fast handling.
You’re hiking to the lake: if you’re going to the alpine lake and you want to swim, you can’t have a solid surface. An inflatable stowed in his storage bag is still big, but it’s pretty much your only option.
You’re paddling white water: like a raft or an inflatable kayak, an inflatable SUP is better suited for navigating bumps around rocks and logs than a solid surface.
You like paddleboard yoga: you don’t have to get inflatable for SUP yoga, but they appear to be a little softer than solid surfaces, making them more comfortable for yoga poses.
SUP Volume and Weight
A SUP board have to fit with your size. When the board does not displace the appropriate amount of water for your weight, you will not be well supported, and the board will feel unstable. Board volume and weight capacity are two variables that influence how stable you feel and how well the board flows through the water.
Volume and weight capacity shall be determined by the length, width, and thickness of the plate. SUP manufacturers combine these three dimensions in a number of ways to achieve specific performance characteristics (see the SUP Height, SUP Width, and SUP Thickness parts of this article for more information).
Volume: The volume of the paddleboard, measured in liters, reflects the capacity of the vessel to float by weight. The higher the distance, the greater the weight that the board can bear. You will find the volume for the SUP specified in the pakaloa.com specification.
Weight Capacity: Each paddle board has a rider’s weight capacity, which is specified in pounds in the pakaloa.com specifications. Understanding weight capacity is vital because if you’re too big for a boat, it’s going to be lower in the water and difficult to paddle. If talking about weight power, consider the total amount of weight you are going to bring on the frame, including your body weight and the weight of any clothing, food, and drinking water you are going to carry with you.
Weight and capacity as it relates to the hull type: the majority of the hull boards are very forgiving, and as long as you are below the weight capacity, the board will perform well for you. Nevertheless, with the SUP displacement of the hull, volume and weight capability are more important. SUP manufacturers spend a lot of time deciding the most suitable location for the displacement boards to be in the water. If you overweight the displacement board and make it sink too far, it will drag and feel sluggish. When you’re too small for a board, you’re not going to sink it enough, and the board will feel heavy and difficult to manipulate.
Paddleboard Length
The length of the frame plays a crucial role in deciding the board’s handling. Generally, longer boards are quicker than shorter boards, but shorter boards are more maneuverable. Keep in mind your intended use when determining how long SUP to buy:
Shortboards (under 10) ‘are perfect for surfing and/or kids. Almost always, these boards have a planing hull. Shortboards are more maneuverable than long ones, making them ideal for surfing waves. Boards designed especially for children are typically around 8 ‘tall.
Medium boards (10 ‘to 12’) are suitable for all-round use and SUP yoga. Some of these boards have planing hulls, but sometime you’ll see the SUP displacement hull at this length.
Large boards (12’6 “and above) are perfect for easy paddling and long-distance touring. The bulk of the boards in this size range are SUP displacements. They’re quicker than the short and medium ones, so they seem to be straighter. If you’re interested in paddling quickly or traveling long distances, you’re going to want a long paddle.
While selecting a length, it is important to consider how it applies to volume and weight power. Longer boards can increase volume and capacity, which can make them feel more comfortable and allow them to hold more on board (width and thickness are also factors in volume and ability; see the SUP Width and SUP Thickness parts of this article).
Remember, too, the length of the board in terms of your type of vehicle, the home storage situation, and the duration of the walk to the beach or shore (longer boards are more difficult to carry, particularly in windy places).
Paddleboard Width
Width is another significant element that influences the way the board treats it. A wider board would also be more stable than a thin board, but bear in mind that a wider board can be slower and if the board is too wide for you, difficult to paddle. SUPs are manufactured in widths ranging from 25 inches to 36 inches to match a wide variety of needs.
When deciding how big your SUP should be, think about the type of paddling you’re doing, your body size and ability level:
The size of paddling: if you’re going on long tours that allow you to bring extra equipment, such as a food cooler and a tent, choose a paddle board wider in order to have more storage space. The same is true if you do SUP yoga; a board that is 31 inches long or more will allow you room and stability to make poses. Narrower decks, on the other hand, are quicker and more maneuverable, making them the alternative between racers and surfers.
Body size: Try to align the body type with the width of the SUP. Generally, if you’re a small person, go with a smaller board, and if you’re a big guy, go with a wider board. That is because a smaller person can usually find a balance on a narrow surface, while a larger person can fail to do so. Often, if you put a smaller person on a board that’s too large for them, they have to clumsily reach out to the side to bring their paddle in the water, resulting in an inefficient stroke.
Skill level: If you’ve paddled a lot, you could be confident on a smaller, quicker SUP. However, someone brand new to SUP would prefer a little extra width to make them feel more comfortable.
Like with range, width affects the total volume and weight efficiency, so you should select a width with this in mind. For example, if you have defined the length you want based on the type of paddling you want to use, you can choose the width (and/or thickness; see the paddleboard thickness section of this post) that gives you the correct volume and weight capacity of the board.
Paddleboard thickness
After finding a board with the length and width that makes the best sense to you and your paddling style, consider the third factor: the thickness of the board.
The key explanation for considering the thickness of the stand-up paddleboard is how it influences the total volume and weight power. If you look at two boards with the same length and width but with different thicknesses, the thicker the board has more volume than the thinner one and the higher the volume, the more weight it can bear.
Here’s how you might use thickness: you’ve decided that you want a long, thin, flat-water cruising surface. If you are a small individual, using a thin board will keep the total volume of the board lower so that you weight the board correctly for the most effective results.
Paddleboard Fins
Fins attach stability and monitoring to the paddleboard. Generally, larger fins with wider bases and longer front edges can track straighter and provide more stability than smaller fins. On the other hand, a smaller fin has greater maneuverability. Many of the fins are removable, so you can change out the fins and use them for storage.
There are several different choices for how the fins are mounted at the bottom of your SUP. Some of the common SUP fin configurations include:
Single fin: many SUPs have a single fin placed in a fin box and secured with a nut and screw. The fin box has a door for the fin to slide back and forth. The single fin offers good tracking and low drag, making it a good option for flat-water paddling.
3-fin rig: Also called a thruster, this configuration facilitates straight tracking on flat water and provides good power in surfing. The three fins are typical of the same size.
Configuration 2 + 1: This design involves a larger central fin with a smaller fin on either side of it. It is a growing configuration of SUPs built for surfing.
Finds for inflatable SUPs: Inflatable SUPs that have any of the fin configurations already specified. What sets them a part is that they have either flexible rubber fins fixed to the board or detachable semi-rigid fins.
SUP Additions and Accessories
How to Choose a Paddle Board & accessories: Depending on how you decide to use your SUP, you may want to look for a paddleboard with extra features, such as
Bungee straps / tied-down: often placed on the front and/or back of the board, these extended straps or tie-down spots are perfect for securing dry bags, clothes, and coolers.
Attachment points/mounts: Some boards have different attachment points for fishing rod holders, chairs, cameras, and more. Such parts are typically sold separately.
After buying a SUP, you need a few more main pieces of equipment to enjoy paddleboarding. These include:
Paddle: A paddleboard paddle looks a bit like a stretched-out canoe paddle with a tear-shaped blade that angles forward for optimum paddling capacity. The right length paddle should touch your wrist when you stand the paddle in front of you and lift your arm over your head.
PFD’s (Personal Flotation Device): The U.S. Coast Guard classifies paddleboards as boats (when used beyond the restricted limits of swimming or surfing areas), and you must wear a PFD. In our post, PFDs: How to Choose, learn how to pick the best PFD for you. Remember that the regulations also allow you to always bring a safety whistle and to have the light accessible if you are paddling after sunset.
Proper clothing: in cold temperatures where hypothermia is a problem, wear a wet suit or a dry suit. In milder temperatures, wear shorts and a t-shirt or bathing suit — something that travels with you and can get wet and dry easily.
Leash: Usually sold separately, a leash is tied to your SUP, holding it near when you fall off. Your paddleboard is a large flotation device, so attaching to it may be vital to your health. There are leashes built specifically for sailing, flat water, and rivers; be sure to buy the correct leash for your intended use.
Car rack: If you don’t have an inflatable SUP, you need a way to move your board to your car. There are special SUP racks built to match the crossbar of your roof rack, or you can use padding, such as foam blocks, inflatable blocks and utility straps to attach the board to the roof of your car.
PDF Button
The post How to Choose a Paddle Board? appeared first on Pakaloa SUP
source https://www.pakaloa.com/how-to-choose-a-paddle-board/
0 notes
Text
How to Choose a Paddle Board?
How to choose a paddle board? a quick guide to help you to choose a paddle board:
Stand up paddle boarding (SUP) is something for everyone. You can set out for a relaxing swim on a calm lake or catch waves in the ocean. And you may want to do SUP yoga, or go for a fast-paced paddle to get some workout. Whatever your goals, getting the right board is the secret to your enjoyment. Within this buying guide, we’ll look at the key points you need to think about when choosing a board.
To find & to help you how to choose a paddle board for you, consider how you’re going to use it, how it suits your body, and how you want it to be treated in the water. The main decision points would be the shape of the board, the correct volume and capability as well as the right length, width and thickness. Whether you want a solid or inflatable board will mostly depend on how you transport it and how much storage space you have. From there, find the fins of a board and any additions or attachments that fit for you.
Have a look and find the best inflatable paddle board
Paddleboard Hull Types:
The hull or frame of the paddle board plays a crucial role in deciding how the boat works in the water. Most SUPs have either a plane hull or a displacement hull. There is a handful of hybrid designs that incorporate the best qualities of each design.
Beginner paddlers can enjoy any hull shape, but some variations make them better suited for certain activities than others. That’s why it’s smart to select a hull style based on how you expect to use your SUP.
Planing Hull
A plane hull is flat and wide, similar to a surfboard. It’s built to sit on top of the water and be very maneuverable. Planing hull boards are a popular option for recreational paddling, sailing, SUP yoga and white-water.
Displacement Hull
Paddle boards with displacement hulls have a pointed nose or bow (front end) similar to a kayak or canoe. The hull cuts through the water, forcing the water around the nose to the sides of the SUP to improve efficiency and build a quick, smooth trip. The performance of the displacement hull requires less effort than the padding hull, enabling you to travel longer distances at higher speeds. We still follow smooth and straight but are usually a little less maneuverable than the plane hulls.
Paddlers use displacement hulls for a variety of applications, but always with an eye to paddling efficiency and speed. Many of the activities include fitness paddling, SUP touring / camping and surfing.
Solid vs. Inflatable SUPs
Rolling hull and displacement hull SUPs are available in two different general construction styles: strong or inflatable.
Solid SUPs
Most strong boards have an EPS foam core covered in fiberglass and epoxy. This is a relatively lightweight, robust and inexpensive building. Carbon fiber is a lighter and stiffer alternative, but it is also more costly. Plastic SUPs are cheaper, but they are very heavy and lack the efficiency of other materials. Many SUPs are made of light wood for a stunning look.
Why get a solid SUP:
Quality is your priority: Solid boards deliver the best water efficiency. We fly quicker, easier with less effort than an inflatable. If paddling quick and far is your goal, a strong SUP is for you.
For ideal fit: Solid SUPs are available in a wider range of sizes and precisely tuned shapes than inflatable paddleboards, so you’re more likely to find one that fits you correctly.
Stability is essential: a solid paddleboard is a bit stiffer than an inflatable board, which can offer a more stable feel, mainly when riding waves. Strong boards also prefer to sit lower in the water, which can also produce a more comfortable feeling.
You’ve got a place to store it: Strong SUPs will take up a lot of space. If you have enough storage space in your garage and a vehicle that can handle it, then a strong SUP is a good option.
Inflatable SUPs
Inflatable SUPs feature a PVC exterior with a drop-stitch design that provides an air core. Inflatable paddleboards come with a pump to inflate the paddleboard and a storage bag when it’s not in use. The high-quality inflatable SUP is designed to be inflated to 12–15 pounds per square inch and should feel very rigid when fully inflated.
Why get an inflatable paddle board:
You have limited space for storage: if you live in a small house, condo or apartment, you may not have room for a big solid board. Inflatable SUPs are lightweight when deflated and can be conveniently placed in small spaces, such as a closet or a car trunk.
You’re traveling: whether you’re on a road trip or if you’re on a boat, you can take your inflatable SUP and do some paddling when you reach your destination. The inflatable can be checked on a plane or placed in a train, bus, or car packed in its storage bag. Most storage bags have backpack straps for fast handling.
You’re hiking to the lake: if you’re going to the alpine lake and you want to swim, you can’t have a solid surface. An inflatable stowed in his storage bag is still big, but it’s pretty much your only option.
You’re paddling white water: like a raft or an inflatable kayak, an inflatable SUP is better suited for navigating bumps around rocks and logs than a solid surface.
You like paddleboard yoga: you don’t have to get inflatable for SUP yoga, but they appear to be a little softer than solid surfaces, making them more comfortable for yoga poses.
SUP Volume and Weight
A SUP board have to fit with your size. When the board does not displace the appropriate amount of water for your weight, you will not be well supported, and the board will feel unstable. Board volume and weight capacity are two variables that influence how stable you feel and how well the board flows through the water.
Volume and weight capacity shall be determined by the length, width, and thickness of the plate. SUP manufacturers combine these three dimensions in a number of ways to achieve specific performance characteristics (see the SUP Height, SUP Width, and SUP Thickness parts of this article for more information).
Volume: The volume of the paddleboard, measured in liters, reflects the capacity of the vessel to float by weight. The higher the distance, the greater the weight that the board can bear. You will find the volume for the SUP specified in the pakaloa.com specification.
Weight Capacity: Each paddle board has a rider’s weight capacity, which is specified in pounds in the pakaloa.com specifications. Understanding weight capacity is vital because if you’re too big for a boat, it’s going to be lower in the water and difficult to paddle. If talking about weight power, consider the total amount of weight you are going to bring on the frame, including your body weight and the weight of any clothing, food, and drinking water you are going to carry with you.
Weight and capacity as it relates to the hull type: the majority of the hull boards are very forgiving, and as long as you are below the weight capacity, the board will perform well for you. Nevertheless, with the SUP displacement of the hull, volume and weight capability are more important. SUP manufacturers spend a lot of time deciding the most suitable location for the displacement boards to be in the water. If you overweight the displacement board and make it sink too far, it will drag and feel sluggish. When you’re too small for a board, you’re not going to sink it enough, and the board will feel heavy and difficult to manipulate.
Paddleboard Length
The length of the frame plays a crucial role in deciding the board’s handling. Generally, longer boards are quicker than shorter boards, but shorter boards are more maneuverable. Keep in mind your intended use when determining how long SUP to buy:
Shortboards (under 10) ‘are perfect for surfing and/or kids. Almost always, these boards have a planing hull. Shortboards are more maneuverable than long ones, making them ideal for surfing waves. Boards designed especially for children are typically around 8 ‘tall.
Medium boards (10 ‘to 12’) are suitable for all-round use and SUP yoga. Some of these boards have planing hulls, but sometime you’ll see the SUP displacement hull at this length.
Large boards (12’6 “and above) are perfect for easy paddling and long-distance touring. The bulk of the boards in this size range are SUP displacements. They’re quicker than the short and medium ones, so they seem to be straighter. If you’re interested in paddling quickly or traveling long distances, you’re going to want a long paddle.
While selecting a length, it is important to consider how it applies to volume and weight power. Longer boards can increase volume and capacity, which can make them feel more comfortable and allow them to hold more on board (width and thickness are also factors in volume and ability; see the SUP Width and SUP Thickness parts of this article).
Remember, too, the length of the board in terms of your type of vehicle, the home storage situation, and the duration of the walk to the beach or shore (longer boards are more difficult to carry, particularly in windy places).
Paddleboard Width
Width is another significant element that influences the way the board treats it. A wider board would also be more stable than a thin board, but bear in mind that a wider board can be slower and if the board is too wide for you, difficult to paddle. SUPs are manufactured in widths ranging from 25 inches to 36 inches to match a wide variety of needs.
When deciding how big your SUP should be, think about the type of paddling you’re doing, your body size and ability level:
The size of paddling: if you’re going on long tours that allow you to bring extra equipment, such as a food cooler and a tent, choose a paddle board wider in order to have more storage space. The same is true if you do SUP yoga; a board that is 31 inches long or more will allow you room and stability to make poses. Narrower decks, on the other hand, are quicker and more maneuverable, making them the alternative between racers and surfers.
Body size: Try to align the body type with the width of the SUP. Generally, if you’re a small person, go with a smaller board, and if you’re a big guy, go with a wider board. That is because a smaller person can usually find a balance on a narrow surface, while a larger person can fail to do so. Often, if you put a smaller person on a board that’s too large for them, they have to clumsily reach out to the side to bring their paddle in the water, resulting in an inefficient stroke.
Skill level: If you’ve paddled a lot, you could be confident on a smaller, quicker SUP. However, someone brand new to SUP would prefer a little extra width to make them feel more comfortable.
Like with range, width affects the total volume and weight efficiency, so you should select a width with this in mind. For example, if you have defined the length you want based on the type of paddling you want to use, you can choose the width (and/or thickness; see the paddleboard thickness section of this post) that gives you the correct volume and weight capacity of the board.
Paddleboard thickness
After finding a board with the length and width that makes the best sense to you and your paddling style, consider the third factor: the thickness of the board.
The key explanation for considering the thickness of the stand-up paddleboard is how it influences the total volume and weight power. If you look at two boards with the same length and width but with different thicknesses, the thicker the board has more volume than the thinner one and the higher the volume, the more weight it can bear.
Here’s how you might use thickness: you’ve decided that you want a long, thin, flat-water cruising surface. If you are a small individual, using a thin board will keep the total volume of the board lower so that you weight the board correctly for the most effective results.
Paddleboard Fins
Fins attach stability and monitoring to the paddleboard. Generally, larger fins with wider bases and longer front edges can track straighter and provide more stability than smaller fins. On the other hand, a smaller fin has greater maneuverability. Many of the fins are removable, so you can change out the fins and use them for storage.
There are several different choices for how the fins are mounted at the bottom of your SUP. Some of the common SUP fin configurations include:
Single fin: many SUPs have a single fin placed in a fin box and secured with a nut and screw. The fin box has a door for the fin to slide back and forth. The single fin offers good tracking and low drag, making it a good option for flat-water paddling.
3-fin rig: Also called a thruster, this configuration facilitates straight tracking on flat water and provides good power in surfing. The three fins are typical of the same size.
Configuration 2 + 1: This design involves a larger central fin with a smaller fin on either side of it. It is a growing configuration of SUPs built for surfing.
Finds for inflatable SUPs: Inflatable SUPs that have any of the fin configurations already specified. What sets them a part is that they have either flexible rubber fins fixed to the board or detachable semi-rigid fins.
SUP Additions and Accessories
How to Choose a Paddle Board & accessories: Depending on how you decide to use your SUP, you may want to look for a paddleboard with extra features, such as
Bungee straps / tied-down: often placed on the front and/or back of the board, these extended straps or tie-down spots are perfect for securing dry bags, clothes, and coolers.
Attachment points/mounts: Some boards have different attachment points for fishing rod holders, chairs, cameras, and more. Such parts are typically sold separately.
After buying a SUP, you need a few more main pieces of equipment to enjoy paddleboarding. These include:
Paddle: A paddleboard paddle looks a bit like a stretched-out canoe paddle with a tear-shaped blade that angles forward for optimum paddling capacity. The right length paddle should touch your wrist when you stand the paddle in front of you and lift your arm over your head.
PFD’s (Personal Flotation Device): The U.S. Coast Guard classifies paddleboards as boats (when used beyond the restricted limits of swimming or surfing areas), and you must wear a PFD. In our post, PFDs: How to Choose, learn how to pick the best PFD for you. Remember that the regulations also allow you to always bring a safety whistle and to have the light accessible if you are paddling after sunset.
Proper clothing: in cold temperatures where hypothermia is a problem, wear a wet suit or a dry suit. In milder temperatures, wear shorts and a t-shirt or bathing suit — something that travels with you and can get wet and dry easily.
Leash: Usually sold separately, a leash is tied to your SUP, holding it near when you fall off. Your paddleboard is a large flotation device, so attaching to it may be vital to your health. There are leashes built specifically for sailing, flat water, and rivers; be sure to buy the correct leash for your intended use.
Car rack: If you don’t have an inflatable SUP, you need a way to move your board to your car. There are special SUP racks built to match the crossbar of your roof rack, or you can use padding, such as foam blocks, inflatable blocks and utility straps to attach the board to the roof of your car.
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How to Choose a Paddle Board?
How to choose a paddle board? a quick guide to help you to choose a paddle board:
Stand up paddle boarding (SUP) is something for everyone. You can set out for a relaxing swim on a calm lake or catch waves in the ocean. And you may want to do SUP yoga, or go for a fast-paced paddle to get some workout. Whatever your goals, getting the right board is the secret to your enjoyment. Within this buying guide, we’ll look at the key points you need to think about when choosing a board.
To find & to help you how to choose a paddle board for you, consider how you’re going to use it, how it suits your body, and how you want it to be treated in the water. The main decision points would be the shape of the board, the correct volume and capability as well as the right length, width and thickness. Whether you want a solid or inflatable board will mostly depend on how you transport it and how much storage space you have. From there, find the fins of a board and any additions or attachments that fit for you.
Have a look and find the best inflatable paddle board
Paddleboard Hull Types:
The hull or frame of the paddle board plays a crucial role in deciding how the boat works in the water. Most SUPs have either a plane hull or a displacement hull. There is a handful of hybrid designs that incorporate the best qualities of each design.
Beginner paddlers can enjoy any hull shape, but some variations make them better suited for certain activities than others. That’s why it’s smart to select a hull style based on how you expect to use your SUP.
Planing Hull
A plane hull is flat and wide, similar to a surfboard. It’s built to sit on top of the water and be very maneuverable. Planing hull boards are a popular option for recreational paddling, sailing, SUP yoga and white-water.
Displacement Hull
Paddle boards with displacement hulls have a pointed nose or bow (front end) similar to a kayak or canoe. The hull cuts through the water, forcing the water around the nose to the sides of the SUP to improve efficiency and build a quick, smooth trip. The performance of the displacement hull requires less effort than the padding hull, enabling you to travel longer distances at higher speeds. We still follow smooth and straight but are usually a little less maneuverable than the plane hulls.
Paddlers use displacement hulls for a variety of applications, but always with an eye to paddling efficiency and speed. Many of the activities include fitness paddling, SUP touring / camping and surfing.
Solid vs. Inflatable SUPs
Rolling hull and displacement hull SUPs are available in two different general construction styles: strong or inflatable.
Solid SUPs
Most strong boards have an EPS foam core covered in fiberglass and epoxy. This is a relatively lightweight, robust and inexpensive building. Carbon fiber is a lighter and stiffer alternative, but it is also more costly. Plastic SUPs are cheaper, but they are very heavy and lack the efficiency of other materials. Many SUPs are made of light wood for a stunning look.
Why get a solid SUP:
Quality is your priority: Solid boards deliver the best water efficiency. We fly quicker, easier with less effort than an inflatable. If paddling quick and far is your goal, a strong SUP is for you.
For ideal fit: Solid SUPs are available in a wider range of sizes and precisely tuned shapes than inflatable paddleboards, so you’re more likely to find one that fits you correctly.
Stability is essential: a solid paddleboard is a bit stiffer than an inflatable board, which can offer a more stable feel, mainly when riding waves. Strong boards also prefer to sit lower in the water, which can also produce a more comfortable feeling.
You’ve got a place to store it: Strong SUPs will take up a lot of space. If you have enough storage space in your garage and a vehicle that can handle it, then a strong SUP is a good option.
Inflatable SUPs
Inflatable SUPs feature a PVC exterior with a drop-stitch design that provides an air core. Inflatable paddleboards come with a pump to inflate the paddleboard and a storage bag when it’s not in use. The high-quality inflatable SUP is designed to be inflated to 12–15 pounds per square inch and should feel very rigid when fully inflated.
Why get an inflatable paddle board:
You have limited space for storage: if you live in a small house, condo or apartment, you may not have room for a big solid board. Inflatable SUPs are lightweight when deflated and can be conveniently placed in small spaces, such as a closet or a car trunk.
You’re traveling: whether you’re on a road trip or if you’re on a boat, you can take your inflatable SUP and do some paddling when you reach your destination. The inflatable can be checked on a plane or placed in a train, bus, or car packed in its storage bag. Most storage bags have backpack straps for fast handling.
You’re hiking to the lake: if you’re going to the alpine lake and you want to swim, you can’t have a solid surface. An inflatable stowed in his storage bag is still big, but it’s pretty much your only option.
You’re paddling white water: like a raft or an inflatable kayak, an inflatable SUP is better suited for navigating bumps around rocks and logs than a solid surface.
You like paddleboard yoga: you don’t have to get inflatable for SUP yoga, but they appear to be a little softer than solid surfaces, making them more comfortable for yoga poses.
SUP Volume and Weight
A SUP board have to fit with your size. When the board does not displace the appropriate amount of water for your weight, you will not be well supported, and the board will feel unstable. Board volume and weight capacity are two variables that influence how stable you feel and how well the board flows through the water.
Volume and weight capacity shall be determined by the length, width, and thickness of the plate. SUP manufacturers combine these three dimensions in a number of ways to achieve specific performance characteristics (see the SUP Height, SUP Width, and SUP Thickness parts of this article for more information).
Volume: The volume of the paddleboard, measured in liters, reflects the capacity of the vessel to float by weight. The higher the distance, the greater the weight that the board can bear. You will find the volume for the SUP specified in the pakaloa.com specification.
Weight Capacity: Each paddle board has a rider’s weight capacity, which is specified in pounds in the pakaloa.com specifications. Understanding weight capacity is vital because if you’re too big for a boat, it’s going to be lower in the water and difficult to paddle. If talking about weight power, consider the total amount of weight you are going to bring on the frame, including your body weight and the weight of any clothing, food, and drinking water you are going to carry with you.
Weight and capacity as it relates to the hull type: the majority of the hull boards are very forgiving, and as long as you are below the weight capacity, the board will perform well for you. Nevertheless, with the SUP displacement of the hull, volume and weight capability are more important. SUP manufacturers spend a lot of time deciding the most suitable location for the displacement boards to be in the water. If you overweight the displacement board and make it sink too far, it will drag and feel sluggish. When you’re too small for a board, you’re not going to sink it enough, and the board will feel heavy and difficult to manipulate.
Paddleboard Length
The length of the frame plays a crucial role in deciding the board’s handling. Generally, longer boards are quicker than shorter boards, but shorter boards are more maneuverable. Keep in mind your intended use when determining how long SUP to buy:
Shortboards (under 10) ‘are perfect for surfing and/or kids. Almost always, these boards have a planing hull. Shortboards are more maneuverable than long ones, making them ideal for surfing waves. Boards designed especially for children are typically around 8 ‘tall.
Medium boards (10 ‘to 12’) are suitable for all-round use and SUP yoga. Some of these boards have planing hulls, but sometime you’ll see the SUP displacement hull at this length.
Large boards (12’6 “and above) are perfect for easy paddling and long-distance touring. The bulk of the boards in this size range are SUP displacements. They’re quicker than the short and medium ones, so they seem to be straighter. If you’re interested in paddling quickly or traveling long distances, you’re going to want a long paddle.
While selecting a length, it is important to consider how it applies to volume and weight power. Longer boards can increase volume and capacity, which can make them feel more comfortable and allow them to hold more on board (width and thickness are also factors in volume and ability; see the SUP Width and SUP Thickness parts of this article).
Remember, too, the length of the board in terms of your type of vehicle, the home storage situation, and the duration of the walk to the beach or shore (longer boards are more difficult to carry, particularly in windy places).
Paddleboard Width
Width is another significant element that influences the way the board treats it. A wider board would also be more stable than a thin board, but bear in mind that a wider board can be slower and if the board is too wide for you, difficult to paddle. SUPs are manufactured in widths ranging from 25 inches to 36 inches to match a wide variety of needs.
When deciding how big your SUP should be, think about the type of paddling you’re doing, your body size and ability level:
The size of paddling: if you’re going on long tours that allow you to bring extra equipment, such as a food cooler and a tent, choose a paddle board wider in order to have more storage space. The same is true if you do SUP yoga; a board that is 31 inches long or more will allow you room and stability to make poses. Narrower decks, on the other hand, are quicker and more maneuverable, making them the alternative between racers and surfers.
Body size: Try to align the body type with the width of the SUP. Generally, if you’re a small person, go with a smaller board, and if you’re a big guy, go with a wider board. That is because a smaller person can usually find a balance on a narrow surface, while a larger person can fail to do so. Often, if you put a smaller person on a board that’s too large for them, they have to clumsily reach out to the side to bring their paddle in the water, resulting in an inefficient stroke.
Skill level: If you’ve paddled a lot, you could be confident on a smaller, quicker SUP. However, someone brand new to SUP would prefer a little extra width to make them feel more comfortable.
Like with range, width affects the total volume and weight efficiency, so you should select a width with this in mind. For example, if you have defined the length you want based on the type of paddling you want to use, you can choose the width (and/or thickness; see the paddleboard thickness section of this post) that gives you the correct volume and weight capacity of the board.
Paddleboard thickness
After finding a board with the length and width that makes the best sense to you and your paddling style, consider the third factor: the thickness of the board.
The key explanation for considering the thickness of the stand-up paddleboard is how it influences the total volume and weight power. If you look at two boards with the same length and width but with different thicknesses, the thicker the board has more volume than the thinner one and the higher the volume, the more weight it can bear.
Here’s how you might use thickness: you’ve decided that you want a long, thin, flat-water cruising surface. If you are a small individual, using a thin board will keep the total volume of the board lower so that you weight the board correctly for the most effective results.
Paddleboard Fins
Fins attach stability and monitoring to the paddleboard. Generally, larger fins with wider bases and longer front edges can track straighter and provide more stability than smaller fins. On the other hand, a smaller fin has greater maneuverability. Many of the fins are removable, so you can change out the fins and use them for storage.
There are several different choices for how the fins are mounted at the bottom of your SUP. Some of the common SUP fin configurations include:
Single fin: many SUPs have a single fin placed in a fin box and secured with a nut and screw. The fin box has a door for the fin to slide back and forth. The single fin offers good tracking and low drag, making it a good option for flat-water paddling.
3-fin rig: Also called a thruster, this configuration facilitates straight tracking on flat water and provides good power in surfing. The three fins are typical of the same size.
Configuration 2 + 1: This design involves a larger central fin with a smaller fin on either side of it. It is a growing configuration of SUPs built for surfing.
Finds for inflatable SUPs: Inflatable SUPs that have any of the fin configurations already specified. What sets them a part is that they have either flexible rubber fins fixed to the board or detachable semi-rigid fins.
SUP Additions and Accessories
How to Choose a Paddle Board & accessories: Depending on how you decide to use your SUP, you may want to look for a paddleboard with extra features, such as
Bungee straps / tied-down: often placed on the front and/or back of the board, these extended straps or tie-down spots are perfect for securing dry bags, clothes, and coolers.
Attachment points/mounts: Some boards have different attachment points for fishing rod holders, chairs, cameras, and more. Such parts are typically sold separately.
After buying a SUP, you need a few more main pieces of equipment to enjoy paddleboarding. These include:
Paddle: A paddleboard paddle looks a bit like a stretched-out canoe paddle with a tear-shaped blade that angles forward for optimum paddling capacity. The right length paddle should touch your wrist when you stand the paddle in front of you and lift your arm over your head.
PFD’s (Personal Flotation Device): The U.S. Coast Guard classifies paddleboards as boats (when used beyond the restricted limits of swimming or surfing areas), and you must wear a PFD. In our post, PFDs: How to Choose, learn how to pick the best PFD for you. Remember that the regulations also allow you to always bring a safety whistle and to have the light accessible if you are paddling after sunset.
Proper clothing: in cold temperatures where hypothermia is a problem, wear a wet suit or a dry suit. In milder temperatures, wear shorts and a t-shirt or bathing suit — something that travels with you and can get wet and dry easily.
Leash: Usually sold separately, a leash is tied to your SUP, holding it near when you fall off. Your paddleboard is a large flotation device, so attaching to it may be vital to your health. There are leashes built specifically for sailing, flat water, and rivers; be sure to buy the correct leash for your intended use.
Car rack: If you don’t have an inflatable SUP, you need a way to move your board to your car. There are special SUP racks built to match the crossbar of your roof rack, or you can use padding, such as foam blocks, inflatable blocks and utility straps to attach the board to the roof of your car.
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from Pakaloa SUP https://www.pakaloa.com/how-to-choose-a-paddle-board/ from Pakaloa SUP https://pakaloa1.tumblr.com/post/614670376343060480
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Text
How to Choose a Paddle Board?
How to choose a paddle board? a quick guide to help you to choose a paddle board:
Stand up paddle boarding (SUP) is something for everyone. You can set out for a relaxing swim on a calm lake or catch waves in the ocean. And you may want to do SUP yoga, or go for a fast-paced paddle to get some workout. Whatever your goals, getting the right board is the secret to your enjoyment. Within this buying guide, we’ll look at the key points you need to think about when choosing a board.
To find & to help you how to choose a paddle board for you, consider how you’re going to use it, how it suits your body, and how you want it to be treated in the water. The main decision points would be the shape of the board, the correct volume and capability as well as the right length, width and thickness. Whether you want a solid or inflatable board will mostly depend on how you transport it and how much storage space you have. From there, find the fins of a board and any additions or attachments that fit for you.
Have a look and find the best inflatable paddle board
Paddleboard Hull Types:
The hull or frame of the paddle board plays a crucial role in deciding how the boat works in the water. Most SUPs have either a plane hull or a displacement hull. There is a handful of hybrid designs that incorporate the best qualities of each design.
Beginner paddlers can enjoy any hull shape, but some variations make them better suited for certain activities than others. That’s why it’s smart to select a hull style based on how you expect to use your SUP.
Planing Hull
A plane hull is flat and wide, similar to a surfboard. It’s built to sit on top of the water and be very maneuverable. Planing hull boards are a popular option for recreational paddling, sailing, SUP yoga and white-water.
Displacement Hull
Paddle boards with displacement hulls have a pointed nose or bow (front end) similar to a kayak or canoe. The hull cuts through the water, forcing the water around the nose to the sides of the SUP to improve efficiency and build a quick, smooth trip. The performance of the displacement hull requires less effort than the padding hull, enabling you to travel longer distances at higher speeds. We still follow smooth and straight but are usually a little less maneuverable than the plane hulls.
Paddlers use displacement hulls for a variety of applications, but always with an eye to paddling efficiency and speed. Many of the activities include fitness paddling, SUP touring / camping and surfing.
Solid vs. Inflatable SUPs
Rolling hull and displacement hull SUPs are available in two different general construction styles: strong or inflatable.
Solid SUPs
Most strong boards have an EPS foam core covered in fiberglass and epoxy. This is a relatively lightweight, robust and inexpensive building. Carbon fiber is a lighter and stiffer alternative, but it is also more costly. Plastic SUPs are cheaper, but they are very heavy and lack the efficiency of other materials. Many SUPs are made of light wood for a stunning look.
Why get a solid SUP:
Quality is your priority: Solid boards deliver the best water efficiency. We fly quicker, easier with less effort than an inflatable. If paddling quick and far is your goal, a strong SUP is for you.
For ideal fit: Solid SUPs are available in a wider range of sizes and precisely tuned shapes than inflatable paddleboards, so you’re more likely to find one that fits you correctly.
Stability is essential: a solid paddleboard is a bit stiffer than an inflatable board, which can offer a more stable feel, mainly when riding waves. Strong boards also prefer to sit lower in the water, which can also produce a more comfortable feeling.
You’ve got a place to store it: Strong SUPs will take up a lot of space. If you have enough storage space in your garage and a vehicle that can handle it, then a strong SUP is a good option.
Inflatable SUPs
Inflatable SUPs feature a PVC exterior with a drop-stitch design that provides an air core. Inflatable paddleboards come with a pump to inflate the paddleboard and a storage bag when it’s not in use. The high-quality inflatable SUP is designed to be inflated to 12–15 pounds per square inch and should feel very rigid when fully inflated.
Why get an inflatable paddle board:
You have limited space for storage: if you live in a small house, condo or apartment, you may not have room for a big solid board. Inflatable SUPs are lightweight when deflated and can be conveniently placed in small spaces, such as a closet or a car trunk.
You’re traveling: whether you’re on a road trip or if you’re on a boat, you can take your inflatable SUP and do some paddling when you reach your destination. The inflatable can be checked on a plane or placed in a train, bus, or car packed in its storage bag. Most storage bags have backpack straps for fast handling.
You’re hiking to the lake: if you’re going to the alpine lake and you want to swim, you can’t have a solid surface. An inflatable stowed in his storage bag is still big, but it’s pretty much your only option.
You’re paddling white water: like a raft or an inflatable kayak, an inflatable SUP is better suited for navigating bumps around rocks and logs than a solid surface.
You like paddleboard yoga: you don’t have to get inflatable for SUP yoga, but they appear to be a little softer than solid surfaces, making them more comfortable for yoga poses.
SUP Volume and Weight
A SUP board have to fit with your size. When the board does not displace the appropriate amount of water for your weight, you will not be well supported, and the board will feel unstable. Board volume and weight capacity are two variables that influence how stable you feel and how well the board flows through the water.
Volume and weight capacity shall be determined by the length, width, and thickness of the plate. SUP manufacturers combine these three dimensions in a number of ways to achieve specific performance characteristics (see the SUP Height, SUP Width, and SUP Thickness parts of this article for more information).
Volume: The volume of the paddleboard, measured in liters, reflects the capacity of the vessel to float by weight. The higher the distance, the greater the weight that the board can bear. You will find the volume for the SUP specified in the pakaloa.com specification.
Weight Capacity: Each paddle board has a rider’s weight capacity, which is specified in pounds in the pakaloa.com specifications. Understanding weight capacity is vital because if you’re too big for a boat, it’s going to be lower in the water and difficult to paddle. If talking about weight power, consider the total amount of weight you are going to bring on the frame, including your body weight and the weight of any clothing, food, and drinking water you are going to carry with you.
Weight and capacity as it relates to the hull type: the majority of the hull boards are very forgiving, and as long as you are below the weight capacity, the board will perform well for you. Nevertheless, with the SUP displacement of the hull, volume and weight capability are more important. SUP manufacturers spend a lot of time deciding the most suitable location for the displacement boards to be in the water. If you overweight the displacement board and make it sink too far, it will drag and feel sluggish. When you’re too small for a board, you’re not going to sink it enough, and the board will feel heavy and difficult to manipulate.
Paddleboard Length
The length of the frame plays a crucial role in deciding the board’s handling. Generally, longer boards are quicker than shorter boards, but shorter boards are more maneuverable. Keep in mind your intended use when determining how long SUP to buy:
Shortboards (under 10) ‘are perfect for surfing and/or kids. Almost always, these boards have a planing hull. Shortboards are more maneuverable than long ones, making them ideal for surfing waves. Boards designed especially for children are typically around 8 ‘tall.
Medium boards (10 ‘to 12’) are suitable for all-round use and SUP yoga. Some of these boards have planing hulls, but sometime you’ll see the SUP displacement hull at this length.
Large boards (12’6 “and above) are perfect for easy paddling and long-distance touring. The bulk of the boards in this size range are SUP displacements. They’re quicker than the short and medium ones, so they seem to be straighter. If you’re interested in paddling quickly or traveling long distances, you’re going to want a long paddle.
While selecting a length, it is important to consider how it applies to volume and weight power. Longer boards can increase volume and capacity, which can make them feel more comfortable and allow them to hold more on board (width and thickness are also factors in volume and ability; see the SUP Width and SUP Thickness parts of this article).
Remember, too, the length of the board in terms of your type of vehicle, the home storage situation, and the duration of the walk to the beach or shore (longer boards are more difficult to carry, particularly in windy places).
Paddleboard Width
Width is another significant element that influences the way the board treats it. A wider board would also be more stable than a thin board, but bear in mind that a wider board can be slower and if the board is too wide for you, difficult to paddle. SUPs are manufactured in widths ranging from 25 inches to 36 inches to match a wide variety of needs.
When deciding how big your SUP should be, think about the type of paddling you’re doing, your body size and ability level:
The size of paddling: if you’re going on long tours that allow you to bring extra equipment, such as a food cooler and a tent, choose a paddle board wider in order to have more storage space. The same is true if you do SUP yoga; a board that is 31 inches long or more will allow you room and stability to make poses. Narrower decks, on the other hand, are quicker and more maneuverable, making them the alternative between racers and surfers.
Body size: Try to align the body type with the width of the SUP. Generally, if you’re a small person, go with a smaller board, and if you’re a big guy, go with a wider board. That is because a smaller person can usually find a balance on a narrow surface, while a larger person can fail to do so. Often, if you put a smaller person on a board that’s too large for them, they have to clumsily reach out to the side to bring their paddle in the water, resulting in an inefficient stroke.
Skill level: If you’ve paddled a lot, you could be confident on a smaller, quicker SUP. However, someone brand new to SUP would prefer a little extra width to make them feel more comfortable.
Like with range, width affects the total volume and weight efficiency, so you should select a width with this in mind. For example, if you have defined the length you want based on the type of paddling you want to use, you can choose the width (and/or thickness; see the paddleboard thickness section of this post) that gives you the correct volume and weight capacity of the board.
Paddleboard thickness
After finding a board with the length and width that makes the best sense to you and your paddling style, consider the third factor: the thickness of the board.
The key explanation for considering the thickness of the stand-up paddleboard is how it influences the total volume and weight power. If you look at two boards with the same length and width but with different thicknesses, the thicker the board has more volume than the thinner one and the higher the volume, the more weight it can bear.
Here’s how you might use thickness: you’ve decided that you want a long, thin, flat-water cruising surface. If you are a small individual, using a thin board will keep the total volume of the board lower so that you weight the board correctly for the most effective results.
Paddleboard Fins
Fins attach stability and monitoring to the paddleboard. Generally, larger fins with wider bases and longer front edges can track straighter and provide more stability than smaller fins. On the other hand, a smaller fin has greater maneuverability. Many of the fins are removable, so you can change out the fins and use them for storage.
There are several different choices for how the fins are mounted at the bottom of your SUP. Some of the common SUP fin configurations include:
Single fin: many SUPs have a single fin placed in a fin box and secured with a nut and screw. The fin box has a door for the fin to slide back and forth. The single fin offers good tracking and low drag, making it a good option for flat-water paddling.
3-fin rig: Also called a thruster, this configuration facilitates straight tracking on flat water and provides good power in surfing. The three fins are typical of the same size.
Configuration 2 + 1: This design involves a larger central fin with a smaller fin on either side of it. It is a growing configuration of SUPs built for surfing.
Finds for inflatable SUPs: Inflatable SUPs that have any of the fin configurations already specified. What sets them a part is that they have either flexible rubber fins fixed to the board or detachable semi-rigid fins.
SUP Additions and Accessories
How to Choose a Paddle Board & accessories: Depending on how you decide to use your SUP, you may want to look for a paddleboard with extra features, such as
Bungee straps / tied-down: often placed on the front and/or back of the board, these extended straps or tie-down spots are perfect for securing dry bags, clothes, and coolers.
Attachment points/mounts: Some boards have different attachment points for fishing rod holders, chairs, cameras, and more. Such parts are typically sold separately.
After buying a SUP, you need a few more main pieces of equipment to enjoy paddleboarding. These include:
Paddle: A paddleboard paddle looks a bit like a stretched-out canoe paddle with a tear-shaped blade that angles forward for optimum paddling capacity. The right length paddle should touch your wrist when you stand the paddle in front of you and lift your arm over your head.
PFD’s (Personal Flotation Device): The U.S. Coast Guard classifies paddleboards as boats (when used beyond the restricted limits of swimming or surfing areas), and you must wear a PFD. In our post, PFDs: How to Choose, learn how to pick the best PFD for you. Remember that the regulations also allow you to always bring a safety whistle and to have the light accessible if you are paddling after sunset.
Proper clothing: in cold temperatures where hypothermia is a problem, wear a wet suit or a dry suit. In milder temperatures, wear shorts and a t-shirt or bathing suit — something that travels with you and can get wet and dry easily.
Leash: Usually sold separately, a leash is tied to your SUP, holding it near when you fall off. Your paddleboard is a large flotation device, so attaching to it may be vital to your health. There are leashes built specifically for sailing, flat water, and rivers; be sure to buy the correct leash for your intended use.
Car rack: If you don’t have an inflatable SUP, you need a way to move your board to your car. There are special SUP racks built to match the crossbar of your roof rack, or you can use padding, such as foam blocks, inflatable blocks and utility straps to attach the board to the roof of your car.
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How to Choose a Paddle Board?
How to choose a paddle board? a quick guide to help you to choose a paddle board:
Stand up paddle boarding (SUP) is something for everyone. You can set out for a relaxing swim on a calm lake or catch waves in the ocean. And you may want to do SUP yoga, or go for a fast-paced paddle to get some workout. Whatever your goals, getting the right board is the secret to your enjoyment. Within this buying guide, we’ll look at the key points you need to think about when choosing a board.
To find & to help you how to choose a paddle board for you, consider how you’re going to use it, how it suits your body, and how you want it to be treated in the water. The main decision points would be the shape of the board, the correct volume and capability as well as the right length, width and thickness. Whether you want a solid or inflatable board will mostly depend on how you transport it and how much storage space you have. From there, find the fins of a board and any additions or attachments that fit for you.
Have a look and find the best inflatable paddle board
Paddleboard Hull Types:
The hull or frame of the paddle board plays a crucial role in deciding how the boat works in the water. Most SUPs have either a plane hull or a displacement hull. There is a handful of hybrid designs that incorporate the best qualities of each design.
Beginner paddlers can enjoy any hull shape, but some variations make them better suited for certain activities than others. That’s why it’s smart to select a hull style based on how you expect to use your SUP.
Planing Hull
A plane hull is flat and wide, similar to a surfboard. It’s built to sit on top of the water and be very maneuverable. Planing hull boards are a popular option for recreational paddling, sailing, SUP yoga and white-water.
Displacement Hull
Paddle boards with displacement hulls have a pointed nose or bow (front end) similar to a kayak or canoe. The hull cuts through the water, forcing the water around the nose to the sides of the SUP to improve efficiency and build a quick, smooth trip. The performance of the displacement hull requires less effort than the padding hull, enabling you to travel longer distances at higher speeds. We still follow smooth and straight but are usually a little less maneuverable than the plane hulls.
Paddlers use displacement hulls for a variety of applications, but always with an eye to paddling efficiency and speed. Many of the activities include fitness paddling, SUP touring / camping and surfing.
Solid vs. Inflatable SUPs
Rolling hull and displacement hull SUPs are available in two different general construction styles: strong or inflatable.
Solid SUPs
Most strong boards have an EPS foam core covered in fiberglass and epoxy. This is a relatively lightweight, robust and inexpensive building. Carbon fiber is a lighter and stiffer alternative, but it is also more costly. Plastic SUPs are cheaper, but they are very heavy and lack the efficiency of other materials. Many SUPs are made of light wood for a stunning look.
Why get a solid SUP:
Quality is your priority: Solid boards deliver the best water efficiency. We fly quicker, easier with less effort than an inflatable. If paddling quick and far is your goal, a strong SUP is for you.
For ideal fit: Solid SUPs are available in a wider range of sizes and precisely tuned shapes than inflatable paddleboards, so you’re more likely to find one that fits you correctly.
Stability is essential: a solid paddleboard is a bit stiffer than an inflatable board, which can offer a more stable feel, mainly when riding waves. Strong boards also prefer to sit lower in the water, which can also produce a more comfortable feeling.
You’ve got a place to store it: Strong SUPs will take up a lot of space. If you have enough storage space in your garage and a vehicle that can handle it, then a strong SUP is a good option.
Inflatable SUPs
Inflatable SUPs feature a PVC exterior with a drop-stitch design that provides an air core. Inflatable paddleboards come with a pump to inflate the paddleboard and a storage bag when it’s not in use. The high-quality inflatable SUP is designed to be inflated to 12–15 pounds per square inch and should feel very rigid when fully inflated.
Why get an inflatable paddle board:
You have limited space for storage: if you live in a small house, condo or apartment, you may not have room for a big solid board. Inflatable SUPs are lightweight when deflated and can be conveniently placed in small spaces, such as a closet or a car trunk.
You’re traveling: whether you’re on a road trip or if you’re on a boat, you can take your inflatable SUP and do some paddling when you reach your destination. The inflatable can be checked on a plane or placed in a train, bus, or car packed in its storage bag. Most storage bags have backpack straps for fast handling.
You’re hiking to the lake: if you’re going to the alpine lake and you want to swim, you can’t have a solid surface. An inflatable stowed in his storage bag is still big, but it’s pretty much your only option.
You’re paddling white water: like a raft or an inflatable kayak, an inflatable SUP is better suited for navigating bumps around rocks and logs than a solid surface.
You like paddleboard yoga: you don’t have to get inflatable for SUP yoga, but they appear to be a little softer than solid surfaces, making them more comfortable for yoga poses.
SUP Volume and Weight
A SUP board have to fit with your size. When the board does not displace the appropriate amount of water for your weight, you will not be well supported, and the board will feel unstable. Board volume and weight capacity are two variables that influence how stable you feel and how well the board flows through the water.
Volume and weight capacity shall be determined by the length, width, and thickness of the plate. SUP manufacturers combine these three dimensions in a number of ways to achieve specific performance characteristics (see the SUP Height, SUP Width, and SUP Thickness parts of this article for more information).
Volume: The volume of the paddleboard, measured in liters, reflects the capacity of the vessel to float by weight. The higher the distance, the greater the weight that the board can bear. You will find the volume for the SUP specified in the pakaloa.com specification.
Weight Capacity: Each paddle board has a rider’s weight capacity, which is specified in pounds in the pakaloa.com specifications. Understanding weight capacity is vital because if you’re too big for a boat, it’s going to be lower in the water and difficult to paddle. If talking about weight power, consider the total amount of weight you are going to bring on the frame, including your body weight and the weight of any clothing, food, and drinking water you are going to carry with you.
Weight and capacity as it relates to the hull type: the majority of the hull boards are very forgiving, and as long as you are below the weight capacity, the board will perform well for you. Nevertheless, with the SUP displacement of the hull, volume and weight capability are more important. SUP manufacturers spend a lot of time deciding the most suitable location for the displacement boards to be in the water. If you overweight the displacement board and make it sink too far, it will drag and feel sluggish. When you’re too small for a board, you’re not going to sink it enough, and the board will feel heavy and difficult to manipulate.
Paddleboard Length
The length of the frame plays a crucial role in deciding the board’s handling. Generally, longer boards are quicker than shorter boards, but shorter boards are more maneuverable. Keep in mind your intended use when determining how long SUP to buy:
Shortboards (under 10) ‘are perfect for surfing and/or kids. Almost always, these boards have a planing hull. Shortboards are more maneuverable than long ones, making them ideal for surfing waves. Boards designed especially for children are typically around 8 ‘tall.
Medium boards (10 ‘to 12’) are suitable for all-round use and SUP yoga. Some of these boards have planing hulls, but sometime you’ll see the SUP displacement hull at this length.
Large boards (12’6 “and above) are perfect for easy paddling and long-distance touring. The bulk of the boards in this size range are SUP displacements. They’re quicker than the short and medium ones, so they seem to be straighter. If you’re interested in paddling quickly or traveling long distances, you’re going to want a long paddle.
While selecting a length, it is important to consider how it applies to volume and weight power. Longer boards can increase volume and capacity, which can make them feel more comfortable and allow them to hold more on board (width and thickness are also factors in volume and ability; see the SUP Width and SUP Thickness parts of this article).
Remember, too, the length of the board in terms of your type of vehicle, the home storage situation, and the duration of the walk to the beach or shore (longer boards are more difficult to carry, particularly in windy places).
Paddleboard Width
Width is another significant element that influences the way the board treats it. A wider board would also be more stable than a thin board, but bear in mind that a wider board can be slower and if the board is too wide for you, difficult to paddle. SUPs are manufactured in widths ranging from 25 inches to 36 inches to match a wide variety of needs.
When deciding how big your SUP should be, think about the type of paddling you’re doing, your body size and ability level:
The size of paddling: if you’re going on long tours that allow you to bring extra equipment, such as a food cooler and a tent, choose a paddle board wider in order to have more storage space. The same is true if you do SUP yoga; a board that is 31 inches long or more will allow you room and stability to make poses. Narrower decks, on the other hand, are quicker and more maneuverable, making them the alternative between racers and surfers.
Body size: Try to align the body type with the width of the SUP. Generally, if you’re a small person, go with a smaller board, and if you’re a big guy, go with a wider board. That is because a smaller person can usually find a balance on a narrow surface, while a larger person can fail to do so. Often, if you put a smaller person on a board that’s too large for them, they have to clumsily reach out to the side to bring their paddle in the water, resulting in an inefficient stroke.
Skill level: If you’ve paddled a lot, you could be confident on a smaller, quicker SUP. However, someone brand new to SUP would prefer a little extra width to make them feel more comfortable.
Like with range, width affects the total volume and weight efficiency, so you should select a width with this in mind. For example, if you have defined the length you want based on the type of paddling you want to use, you can choose the width (and/or thickness; see the paddleboard thickness section of this post) that gives you the correct volume and weight capacity of the board.
Paddleboard thickness
After finding a board with the length and width that makes the best sense to you and your paddling style, consider the third factor: the thickness of the board.
The key explanation for considering the thickness of the stand-up paddleboard is how it influences the total volume and weight power. If you look at two boards with the same length and width but with different thicknesses, the thicker the board has more volume than the thinner one and the higher the volume, the more weight it can bear.
Here’s how you might use thickness: you’ve decided that you want a long, thin, flat-water cruising surface. If you are a small individual, using a thin board will keep the total volume of the board lower so that you weight the board correctly for the most effective results.
Paddleboard Fins
Fins attach stability and monitoring to the paddleboard. Generally, larger fins with wider bases and longer front edges can track straighter and provide more stability than smaller fins. On the other hand, a smaller fin has greater maneuverability. Many of the fins are removable, so you can change out the fins and use them for storage.
There are several different choices for how the fins are mounted at the bottom of your SUP. Some of the common SUP fin configurations include:
Single fin: many SUPs have a single fin placed in a fin box and secured with a nut and screw. The fin box has a door for the fin to slide back and forth. The single fin offers good tracking and low drag, making it a good option for flat-water paddling.
3-fin rig: Also called a thruster, this configuration facilitates straight tracking on flat water and provides good power in surfing. The three fins are typical of the same size.
Configuration 2 + 1: This design involves a larger central fin with a smaller fin on either side of it. It is a growing configuration of SUPs built for surfing.
Finds for inflatable SUPs: Inflatable SUPs that have any of the fin configurations already specified. What sets them a part is that they have either flexible rubber fins fixed to the board or detachable semi-rigid fins.
SUP Additions and Accessories
How to Choose a Paddle Board & accessories: Depending on how you decide to use your SUP, you may want to look for a paddleboard with extra features, such as
Bungee straps / tied-down: often placed on the front and/or back of the board, these extended straps or tie-down spots are perfect for securing dry bags, clothes, and coolers.
Attachment points/mounts: Some boards have different attachment points for fishing rod holders, chairs, cameras, and more. Such parts are typically sold separately.
After buying a SUP, you need a few more main pieces of equipment to enjoy paddleboarding. These include:
Paddle: A paddleboard paddle looks a bit like a stretched-out canoe paddle with a tear-shaped blade that angles forward for optimum paddling capacity. The right length paddle should touch your wrist when you stand the paddle in front of you and lift your arm over your head.
PFD’s (Personal Flotation Device): The U.S. Coast Guard classifies paddleboards as boats (when used beyond the restricted limits of swimming or surfing areas), and you must wear a PFD. In our post, PFDs: How to Choose, learn how to pick the best PFD for you. Remember that the regulations also allow you to always bring a safety whistle and to have the light accessible if you are paddling after sunset.
Proper clothing: in cold temperatures where hypothermia is a problem, wear a wet suit or a dry suit. In milder temperatures, wear shorts and a t-shirt or bathing suit — something that travels with you and can get wet and dry easily.
Leash: Usually sold separately, a leash is tied to your SUP, holding it near when you fall off. Your paddleboard is a large flotation device, so attaching to it may be vital to your health. There are leashes built specifically for sailing, flat water, and rivers; be sure to buy the correct leash for your intended use.
Car rack: If you don’t have an inflatable SUP, you need a way to move your board to your car. There are special SUP racks built to match the crossbar of your roof rack, or you can use padding, such as foam blocks, inflatable blocks and utility straps to attach the board to the roof of your car.
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The post How to Choose a Paddle Board? appeared first on Pakaloa SUP
from Pakaloa SUP https://www.pakaloa.com/how-to-choose-a-paddle-board/
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