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The Ultimate Southeast Asia Packing Guide for Men and Women
Southeast Asia is one of the most incredible regions of the world to explore. However, traveling to Southeast Asia does have its challenges. Make sure you pack what you need for your trip with my Southeast Asia Packing Guide.
This Southeast Asia Packing Guide contains references to products on my Amazon Store site. I may receive a commission when you purchase these products from my store, though at no additional cost to you. I hand-pick and recommend only the products that I am either familiar with or comfortable recommending. Southeast Asia is one of the most incredible regions of the world to explore. With…
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The 'beg-packing' epidemic in SE Asia
The 'beg-packing' epidemic in SE Asia. Locals have been shocked to see white tourists begging in the streets of Malaysia, Hong Kong, Thailand and Singapore to raise money for their travels. While some just see it as bizarre, others are outraged by it, calling it an "orientalist fantasy".
“Beg-packers” is the word sometimes used to describe young Western tourists who play music or sell knick-knacks in the streets of southeast Asia to pay for their trips or to purchase their ticket back home. Photos of two couples doing just this have been widely circulated online. The first pair are sitting on the ground behind a cardboard sign that says "Support our trip around the world”, and are peddling postcards. Other photos show a different young man playing Pink Floyd and Guns ‘N’ Roses songs on the guitar and harmonica next to a cardboard sign with the same message. - - "We find it extremely strange to ask other people for money to help you travel" Maisarah Abu Samah These young people don’t seem to be in dire need, however — they own expensive equipment such as an amplifier. Maisarah Abu Samah, a young Singaporean, was startled by the strange scene and stopped to take these photos, which she published on her Twitter account. It was the first time I’ve seen something like that and it stopped me in my tracks. First of all, you don’t see many people selling knick-knacks or playing music in the street in Singapore because there are strict rules governing these activities. And, if you do happen to see street vendors or street performers, they are usually in the town centre and not near a bus stop in a relatively middle class neighbourbood like this. I’ve also never seen white people doing that. We find it extremely strange to ask other people for money to help you travel. Selling things in the street or begging isn’t considered respectable. People who do so are really in need: they beg in order to buy food, pay their children’s school fees or pay off debts. But not in order to do something seen as a luxury! Other wannabe travellers go online to do their own version of “beg-packing” by starting crowdfunding projects in the hopes of raising money for big trips. This culture seems to go hand-in-hand with the explosion of so-called "travel porn", where social media accounts and travel blogs post endless images of faraway destinations, in the aim of inspiring wanderlust in readers. Backpackers, known in Thailand as 'twat-packers,' are often viewed as the antithesis of organised trips and mass tourism. But even the romantic image of adventurers on the hunt for new horizons has transformed in recent years. Now, many see backpackers as Westerners who want to travel on the cheap — to the point of exploiting the locals. Benjamin Holst has a swollen left leg (he suffers from a condition called macrodystrophia lipomatosa) and has been allegedly using his condition to get people to help him out.
Benjamin Holst has a swollen left leg (he suffers from a condition called macrodystrophia lipomatosa) and has been allegedly using his condition to get people to help him out. . In Thailand, a German foundation gave him lodging after he claimed that he lost his passport and money. But he disappeared and resurfaced in Pattaya before authorities decided to kick him out. “Holst, aka the farang beggar with the big foot, was rescued in late September after he was found homeless on Khaosan Road. He received THB50,000 to get a flight home from Deutscher Hilfsverein Thailand, an organization that helps German citizens,” reported Coconuts Bangkok. “It took only about one day after he got hold of the cash for photos to turn up of Holst partying with bar girls in Pattaya, breaking the hearts of his well-meaning benefactors,” adds the report. After Thailand, Holst was photographed begging in the streets of Denmark. And he is now back in SE Asia and enjoying the sleazy part of Angeles City, Pampanga. How do we know? He very recently posted a photo of bar girls and a bathroom with a jacuzzi to his Facebook account. BangkokJack News Team – You can follow BangkokJack on Instagram, Twitter & Reddit. Or join the free mailing list (top right) Please help us continue to bring the REAL NEWS - PayPal Read the full article
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The key to successful travel is a good packing list. It's how we left for our long term adventure with only carry on bags. In fact, the ones pictured are OUR actual luggage that we're using right now! * Yes, you can have fun whether you take three suitcases for a week or just a backpack. However, you’ll navigate the airport better and have an easier time throughout your trip if you have the right things in your bag(s). * In our almost six months of constant travel we’ve traveled a variety of ways: ~A multi-state US road trip ~Vacationed at an all-inclusive resort in Mexico ~Gone on a 3.5 week trans-oceanic cruise ~Visited three countries (so far) in SE Asia * In these various aspects of our long term travels, we’ve found several things have come in handy, regardless of where we are or how we travel. If they work for us then they may be the missing essential item in your bag, too! * Click the link in our bio to check out our newest blog post on this very topic! #blog #blogpost #blogger #luggage #bags #bag #ouroffbeatlife #travelgear #travelblog #travellife https://www.instagram.com/p/B6Irge0F9MV/?igshid=119e0p3isudal
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Laos, PDR: Please Don’t Rush
Oh Laos… your service was slow and your food was average, but your beauty and charm are unrivaled to anywhere else in SE Asia. You tested our patience with your unofficial slogan: “Laos, PDR: Please Don’t Rush” (PDR actually stands for People’s Democratic Republic, which is confusing because it’s a communist country)... but alas, you encouraged us to slow down and after just three weeks, we were smitten.
Our time in Laos started with a very peaceful border crossing, contrary to what other travelers told us about the craziness of the Laos / Thailand border. At 8 a.m., we were the very first people in line to snag a visa upon arrival. We made it through the border in less than 10 minutes, catching one of the best sunrises of our trip on the way.
While most people cross the border and take a slow boat down the Mekong River directly to Luang Prabang, we opted for the road less traveled and explored Northern Laos first. After crossing the border, we hopped in a tuk-tuk hoping to catch the 9:30 a.m. bus to our first destination: Luang Namtha. We were dropped off at the bus station at 9:27 a.m. and there was one mini-van left in the parking lot. We were greeted with smiles and a head nod when we asked if this van was going to Luang Namtha, and then shuffled onto a van (sans A/C) with 25 locals.
The 4-hour journey was one of the prettiest drives of our entire adventure so far… we jammed to the Wood Brothers new album, while winding through ethnic villages and climbing higher and higher into the mountains. At one point, the driver stopped the van in the middle of the road, crossed the street and starting peeing on the side of the road. All of the locals on the bus followed suit, and we quickly realized this was the Laos version of a bathroom break.
First stop: Luang Namtha
This one-road mountain town is known for it’s jungle trekking and mountain biking. We decided not to do any organized treks in India and Thailand, so we were craving a challenging adventure and an opportunity to sleep outside again.
And so commences the game of finding the right trek. The main street of Luang Namtha is scattered with a dozen different trekking providers, each with a chalkboard out front listing their upcoming treks and the number of people signed up so far. Here’s the catch: the more people who go on each trek, the cheaper the trek is per person… but you never know how many people are going to sign up until very last minute. After stalking a few of the providers, we decided to wait a day, hopefully make some new friends and then lure them into going on a trek with us.
The following day we rented mountain bikes and explored the surrounding countryside. The vistas were vast and the locals smiling and waving at us from the roadside stands made for a very charming day.
Back in town that evening, we once again set out in search of a trek (or some new friends). A quirky Dutch couple in their 30s came to our rescue and once we realized we were looking for a similar level of difficulty in a trek, we decided to team up.
We left the next morning on a 3-day, 2-night trekking and camping experience. Feeling a bit lost without our normal camping gear, we packed a change of clothes and two very old sleeping bags provided by the trekking company… and hit the trail with our jungle guide, Pan.
Pan was a miracle worker in the jungle. The bamboo forest was his office, and his machete was his pen. We joked that he was the Tarzan of Northern Laos, probably raised by bamboo itself. In reality… Pan was from a nearby ethnic village and has been leading jungle treks for the last 10 years. He grew up learning survival skills in the jungle as a kid, has two daughters and cherishes his machete (always strapped to his belt). And with that machete, he could make absolutely anything out of bamboo.
Bamboo coffee cups.
Bamboo shack with bamboo beds inside.
We learned early on that Pan understood English quite well because he would listen to our conversation and laugh at the appropriate times; however, he wasn’t very good at answering our questions (and we had a LOT of questions):
Us: “Hey Pan, what kind of tree is this?”
Pan: “It’s a tree.”
Us: “Hey Pan, how did you catch that rat and those frogs?”
Pan: “Yep, I caught them.”
Us: “Hey Pan, how do you know which mushrooms are edible and which are magic and/or poisonous?” Pan: (points at mushrooms and doesn’t say a word)
Nevertheless, it made for a funny story after the trek and gave us more time to get to know the Dutch couple. Eddie and Annemieke are fellow world travelers who are up for any adventure and have an endless amount of positivity. They were the ideal trekking partners and we never ran out of conversation or laughs with them… especially when we played Happy Salmon with our other guide who didn’t understand a single word of English, but was able to understand the game perfectly.
Pan made a monopod out of bamboo so we could take this group photo.
The food on our trek was the best food we had in Laos. Breakfast consisted of eggs, fresh veggies, tomato sauce and sticky rice. Lunch was similar with additional greens (picked from the jungle), bamboo shoot soup and of course… sticky rice. Dinner was a bit more elaborate with a feast of slow roasted pork over the fire, rattan soup, rats + frogs, veggies and the fan favorite: sticky rice. I can’t tell you why I enjoy white rice so much more when it’s stuck together as opposed to steamed, but it’s amazing. Every meal was fresh, simple and filling. We ate with our hands, sitting on banana leaves and feeling extremely thankful for this experience.
Cooking the pork, frogs and rat... using bamboo skewers.
Eating the rat: “Do not recommend.”
It was so refreshing to be back outside with nothing but a single backpack, living off the land, swimming in the river instead of showering, engaging in rich conversations and challenging our bodies physically.
Next stop: Nong Khiaw
Sufficiently exhausted after three days and 60 kilometers of jungle trekking, we retreated to the strikingly beautiful town of Nong Khiaw. Nestled up along the Mekong River and surrounded by towering limestone peaks, we knew we’d get stuck here for a few days here the minute we rolled in. We snagged a bungalow about a mile outside of town with an unobstructed view of the river and mountains… and of course, a hammock.
We spent the next few days doing yoga by the river, reading in the hammock, and eating average Laos food.
One afternoon we left the comforts of our hammock and took off walking down a dirt road in front of our bungalow. After coercing JJ into following me down an even smaller and windier dirt road, we crossed a stream and continued following the path until it opened up into a sweeping valley surrounded by towering limestone peaks and covered in farmland.
Over the river and through the woods...
A few bamboo houses on stilts scattered the fields and we spotted a couple farmers in the field… but instead of feeling like we were intruding on the farmer’s land, it felt more like we were intruding on Mother Nature. This was a very special place.
We then made our way back to the stream and got lost in our books for a few hours, occasionally looking up to notice the butterflies surrounding us, feel the sun on our faces and dip our toes in the cool water. Pure bliss.
Despite the current day friendly nature of Laos, the country has a not-so-friendly history. It holds the unfortunate designation of being the single most bombed country per capita in the world. During the Vietnam War, the U.S. dropped over 2 million tons of bombs on Laos (more tonnage than in all of World War II). The Ho Chi Minh Trail runs from North Vietnam south through Laos and Cambodia to South Vietnam, and was used in the Vietnam War by the North Vietnamese to supply troops and weapons to the South of Vietnam. During the war, the north denied its existence and the U.S. denied bombing it. As a result, close to 240 million bombs fell on Laos, and an estimated 80 million bombs failed to explode and remain scattered throughout the country.
Since the war ended, over 50,000 people have been killed or injured because of these unexploded bombs; one person is injured almost every day. Due to the extreme poverty that has since stricken Laos, the scrap metal trade of unexploded bombs is a profitable, yet horribly dangerous trade. A 700 pound unexploded bomb is worth $200-$300 for the raw metal, which is ½ of a rural farmer or teacher’s annual salary. On a positive note, there are programs in place to identify and remove the unexploded bombs and educate rural villages on the dangers of these explosives… but even so, it will take decades to safely identify and remove them all.
Final stop in Northern Laos: Luang Prabang
We arrived in Luang Prabang smack dab in the middle of the Chinese New Year, which means the city was bustling with WAY more tourists than usual… thousands and thousands and thousands of Chinese tourists. When arriving in a new destination, we like to mix it up between booking accommodation ahead of time and waiting until we get there to check out the options. We were aware of the Chinese New Year before getting to Luang Prabang, but the online options were slim. We decided to chance it and just show up…. and boy were we wrong. It took us 3 hours of walking around in the heat of the day in this charming city (didn’t seem quite so charming at the time), to find a place to stay. We ended up settling on one of the most expensive accommodations of our trip... but we relented, happily threw our bags in the room, and went exploring.
For $1 at the night market... we filled this bowl to the brim with fried noodles, fresh spring rolls, shrimp, veggies, and more.
Named after an image of a Buddha image given to the king as a gift -- Luang (great or royal) Prabang (a Buddhist image) -- this city has been the source of monarchical power in Laos since the 1500s. When the official capital of Laos moved further south to Vientiane, the city entered a downward spiral of poverty, becoming weaker and weaker until it accepted help from the French in the late 1800’s. Fast forward 100 years, and Luang Prabang remained the royal capital until 1975, when the Pathet Lao communist forces seized power with North Vietnamese support and dissolved the ancient monarchy. The king and his wife were exiled to a different province, imprisoned and died from inadequate food supply and medical care. The Lao PDR government has yet to issue a full report on the royal family’s whereabouts following the revolution.
Laos finally opened it’s doors for tourism in 1989, and Luang Prabang slowly blossomed back into the charming French-inspired city it once was. Restaurants, shops and art galleries sprang up on every corner of the city, placing Luang Prabang on the Unesco’s World Heritage list in 1995, playing a big role in preserving and enhancing the historic architecture.
The city sits at the convergence of the Mekong and Namkong rivers… booming with riverside cafes, swanky pubs, colonial architecture, fancy (read: expensive) coffee shops and to JJ’s delight… freshly baked pastries on every street corner.
Like a kid on Christmas morning.
A 20-minute tuk-tuk ride out of town takes you to the most popular tourist destination in Laos, Kuang Si Waterfall. We thought we had reached our quota of waterfalls (every city in SE Asia has a “waterfall” attraction, some better than others), but this one reinvigorated us and pumped out some raw beauty and power.
We found the not-so “secret” pools everyone tells you about at the base of the main fall, which boasts a 60 meter (200 ft.) cascade. We swam there for awhile looking up at the towering falls, and peering down at the ant-sized tourists taking photos of us from below.
As the sun rises over Luang Prabang every morning, a Buddhist alms ceremony takes place in which locals provide offerings (typically in the form of food) to monks who live in the temples around the city. We walked to the center of town at 6am one morning to check it out, and we were simultaneously humbled and revolted by the experience.
It’s a beautifully historic practice, but unfortunately it has been tainted by disrespectful tourists cutting off the monks and flashing cameras in their faces, without even asking if they can take a photo. It was uncomfortable to watch and caused us to refrain from taking many photos, except from a distance. What saved the experience for us was sitting behind a group of three elderly local women who (we’re assuming) prepare sticky rice every morning for the monks and offer a blessing and a warm smile each time they give food.
After the alms giving we stumbled upon the local morning market, where restaurant owners shop for chickens, frogs, fish and the freshest selection of veggies for that day’s meal preparations. To the tune of birds chirping and the sharpening of knives, we admired the vibrant colors and smells… until JJ was slapped in the leg by a live fish being transferred from one bucket to the next and we decided it was time to leave.
We couldn’t afford to stay in Luang Prabang much longer… so we moved south, onto Vang Vieng. Check back in soon for part two of our love affair with Laos!
xo,
Cam
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Life Update: Travel Plans and What’s Next?
Last year, we were completely exhausted from almost a decade of moving around the world from place to place. Once we both came to the difficult realization that it was time for a base and that being “nomadic” wasn’t for us anymore, we basically just stayed put for almost an entire year!
It was as if the years of hard travel and running an online business while on the road caught up with us. We basically had no desire to pack our bags and go on a trip — which is unheard of.
That was 2018. Fast forward to this year and we’re much more eager to get back on the road — we just needed a little bit of R&R and some downtime, we’re not in our 20’s anymore!
Earlier this year, we spent 2.5 months in Ecuador and Peru, two weeks in Nova Scotia and enjoyed a few staycations here in Grenada.
Ecuador was exactly the trip we were ready for!
After being back from Nova Scotia for almost 8 weeks now, we’re feeling ready to take off again — the travel itch is full-on this year.
︎ Big Travel Announcement:
We’re travelling to Indonesia, the Philippines, and Japan!
While these won’t be new countries for us, we’re visiting islands and towns that we haven’t explored yet. It’ll be a mix of work and pleasure and we’re looking forward to sharing our beach, food, diving and cultural findings with you!
We went live on Facebook announcing this trip. Check it out here (or continue reading below):
Why Asia?
This part of the world is one of our favourites and we find ourselves returning here again and again — either to travel or to put down some temporary roots.
The interesting cultures, the tasty cuisine, and the overall beauty have stolen our hearts over the years. Most of our travels have been spent in Asia (including Central, East, South, West, and Southeast) and in fact, we have just one country left before we’ve seen all of Southeast Asia (Timor-Leste/East Timor).
There’s just something special about this part of the world that keeps us coming back.
The street food in SE Asia is some of the best anywhere!
This time around, we’re heading to the Philippines to attend our friend’s wedding. He’s American, she’s Filipina and we can’t wait to experience a traditional ceremony and celebration!
Plus, other friends of ours will be there as well — this is going to be a fun reunion. We’ve rented a villa right on the beach and will be exploring the island, partaking in wedding shenanigans, and enjoying the company of our friends.
When we were discussing the wedding itinerary and details, we simultaneously received an offer from Lotus Hotels to visit Indonesia and experience their stunning accommodations, which are all PADI 5* dive resorts.
The timing couldn’t have been more perfect and we decided to incorporate Indonesia into our Philippines travels.
A couple of weeks after accepting the offer in Indonesia, we were approached by a PR company in Japan who represents numerous tourism boards there.
She invited us to experience lesser-travelled parts of Japan and share our findings with our audience.
The company wanted us to visit in October/November, which lined up perfectly — everything seemed to fall into place. And, when that happens, we go with it.
We feel so humbled and grateful to be at a level where brands and tourism boards recognize our value and want to work with us. We started blogging for family and friends back in 2011, and since making the conscious decision that we were going to turn travel blogging into our full-time career, it has blossomed into something far bigger than we ever imagined.
And that’s all thanks to you and your support!
Us with the press trip crew in Chicago. Influencers from Mexico, Brazil, Australia and ourselves. Plus the PR reps for the hotel we stayed at.
While press trips aren’t our main income stream or blogging model, when we’re invited on campaigns that suit our ethos and travel style, we happily accept them.
This is a fun way to travel, as we’re either doing something completely unique (like plotting hiking routes in Kyrgyzstan), road tripping around and exploring on our own (like in Argentina and Nova Scotia), or scuba diving in remote locations (as Nick did with the Indonesian tourism board).
Since we take time to vet the offers and consider whether or not they fit with our interests and brand, we’ve had nothing but positive experiences in the past and I’m sure it’ll be the same for our trip with Lotus Hotels and Japan tourism.
First up, Indonesia
In 2009, we backpacked around Indonesia for 2 months, while travelling to the islands of Bali, Gili Trawangan, Lombok, Sumbawa, Java, Flores, Rinca, and Sumatra.
We slept on mattresses on the floor, endured some seriously dodgy accommodations, and actually bargained one particular room down from $3 to $2.50 / night! We took whichever transportation was the cheapest (we even rode on top of a bus), we typically ate street food, and we didn’t care about comforts — we just wanted to stay on the road for as long as possible.
The travel bug and the sense of freedom were overwhelming.
We were on an extreme budget that year abroad. In fact, we travelled Indonesia for around $35 CAD/day, for both of us.
Us in Indonesia during our first trip in 2009!
Our encounters with the people, the natural surroundings, the unique culture, the experiences we had, and the overall adventure of travelling around this part of the world made Indonesia top our list of favourite countries during that year in Asia.
We loved it so much that in 2017 we decided to return to Indonesia to live in Canggu Bali for 3 months.
Here we are, 10 years since our first trip as budget backpackers, revisiting Indonesia in a completely different way — a way that reflects our current lifestyle and 35-year-old selves. It’s very surreal to think back on how far we’ve come and how we’ve evolved since 2009.
While we’re happy we backpacked when we did, our tight budget at the time definitely limited some of the things we wanted to experience, which included scuba diving. This time around, Nick will get his diving fix!
Living in Canggu Bali
Our Upcoming Route in Indonesia
Grenada -> New York -> Taiwan -> Bali -> North Sulawesi -> Raja Ampat -> Bali -> Gili Trawangan -> Bali
After a long, 25-hour travel journey we’ll arrive in Bali — jetlagged I’m sure but ready for the adventure. We’ve booked a nice villa on Airbnb in the beach town of Sanur. Even though we’ve spent lots of time in Bali we’ve never been here, but from what I’ve heard, Sanur has been dubbed as “snore” because it’s quieter than most of South Bali — which is fine by me!
After 3 nights spent chilling out, exploring by scooter and stretching our legs after the long flight, we’ll fly to North Sulawesi to the small island of Gangga. This area is known for having spectacular scuba diving and snorkelling opportunities. We’ve never been to Sulawesi and are excited to see what Gangga Island and the surrounding Bunaken National Marine Park have to offer.
This is where we’ll be staying, Gangga Island Resort and Spa. It looks amazing! (Photo credit: Lotus Hotels)
From North Sulawesi, we move on to our next island paradise, Raja Ampat. This once-secret group of 1500 islands is becoming more popular but is still considered off-track due to the effort it takes to get here. Nothing this good comes easy!
Idyllic islands, palm-fringed shorelines, crystal clear water, and some of the best diving anywhere in the world can all be found in Raja Ampat. The underwater world is teeming with life, which Nick knows first hand because he went on a diving trip here in 2017 during our stay in Canggu. I was so envious of that trip, and now I get a chance to see it with my own eyes.
We’ll be staying at the Papua Paradise Eco Resort for 5 nights in overwater bungalows. This type of accommodation has been a dream of ours for many years, and it’s finally coming true. Watching marine life swim by, and snorkelling right offshore will be pretty incredible.
Overwater bungalows! We’re looking forward to snorkelling right offshore. (Photo Credit: Lotus Hotels)
From the far east of Indonesia, we’re returning to Bali to visit another town that we’ve yet to see, Candidasa. A trip to a nearby village, scuba diving and relaxing by the pool are all on the agenda here. After what I’m sure will be a great 3 nights in Candidasa, we’re taking a boat over to nearby Gili Trawangan.
During 2009, we spent about a week on Gili T and really enjoyed the slow pace of the island. I remember renting bicycles with a plan to ride around the circumference of the island, only to find out that just 1/4 of it was paved, and the rest was sand!
It’ll be interesting to see how Gili Trawangan has changed over the past 10 years. The plan here is to do some scuba diving and snorkelling (of course), indulge in some relaxing spa treatments and explore the island.
The dining and pool area of Villa Almarik on Gili T. (Photo credit: Lotus Hotels)
In total, we’ll be travelling around Indonesia for 20 days and can’t wait!
A Wedding in the Philippines
During our 10 years of travel, we’ve attended numerous weddings abroad. Most of those weddings were for people we didn’t actually know! When we found out our good friend was getting married, we figured it would be held in the Philippines (where he lives), and knew we had to make an effort to get there — especially considering Nick was named best man!
We’re flying into the town of Dumaguete and taking a boat over to the island of Siquijor, which is where the festivities will take place.
The last time we were in the Philippines was back in 2012 when we travelled around the islands of Luzon and Palawan. There are over 7,000 islands in the archipelago and, not surprisingly, we haven’t explored Siquijor in the past.
Known for its interesting witchcraft healers, awesome scuba diving, pristine beaches, and gorgeous waterfalls, we’re very much looking forward to experiencing this island — through the eyes of a local.
Exploring a deserted island in the Philippines back in 2012.
A Quick Trip to Japan
In 2018, we decided to fly from Bali to Tokyo and celebrate Nick’s birthday in Japan. He’s a sushi fiend. Landing in Tokyo and having sushi that day for lunch was probably the best birthday he could’ve dreamed of!
We spent around two weeks travelling to Tokyo, Kyoto, Takayama, and some surrounding villages. I think you could spend years in Japan and continuously learn about the history and culture of this unique destination.
On a walking tour in Kyoto. Tatsuya was a great guide, and friend!
This diverse country has a little something for everyone — mountains, beaches, history, lakes, cities, food, and culture. There are just so many things to do in Japan.
This time around, we’re starting off in Tokyo (sushi!) and heading to the northeast region of the country, Tohoku — which is known as being a hidden traveller’s gem. This part of Japan is filled with hot springs, mountains, villages, crater lakes, and of course, regional food specialities.
From the north, we’re heading south to the Okayama area to explore castles, museums, gardens and shrines, before making our way back to Tokyo where we’ll complete our journey by soaking in an onsen (public bath).
This whirlwind trip will give us a taste of some parts of Japan we’ve never been, and from what I’ve seen and heard, I’m pretty sure we’re going to want to return.
Tohoku region of Japan (image courtesy of Shutterstock).
Returning Home
This trip is all about the islands, and after hopping around 7+ islands in Asia for 2 months, I think we’ll be ready to return to our home base (which is also an island!).
Having a base to return to really makes our travels a lot easier. These days, we don’t have to pack up literally everything we own and bring it with us. Plus, having a home allows us to actually accumulate a few possessions and to get some work done.
Once we return home it’ll be all about catching up with work, visiting with friends, enjoying some downtime and getting ready for our next adventure…which is happening around mid-January!
Have you been to any of the destinations I mentioned in this article? If so, please give us your must-sees, eats and dos in the comments below!
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CONSEJOS DE VIAJE: 50 POSTS QUE AYUDAN A VIAJAR [4]
Accesorios para viajar, ¿los tienes todos? | Viajando existo
Say Hello In 117 Languages | spaghetti traveller
Cómo organizar el viaje de tus sueños | Alan x el Mundo
Cómo comprar los billetes en Interrail, mi primera experiencia en tren por Europa | Mi Ruta
10 objetos imprescindibles para tus viajes | La Despensa Viajera
Por qué necesitas un seguro de viaje y cómo elegirlo | Australiaje
10 cose utili da portare in viaggio | Pimp my trip
Ahorrar para viajar: aquí te decimos cómo hacerlo sin morir en el intento | Travel Report
La mejor época para irse de crucero, después del verano | LocuraViajes.com
Confesionario: ¿Viajeros pícaros o ladrones y tramposos? | Info Viajera
Viajar y delinquir | Info Viajera
12 Consejos Prácticos para Reducir el Consumo de Plástico en Nuestras Vidas | Arturo Bullard
Cómo llevar la plata durante un viaje | Marcando el Polo
LE KIT DU VOYAGEUR | Globe-Trotting - Le Blog Voyage des Globe-Trotters
Cómo ahorrar al reservar hotel | Travel Report
Des idées pour financer ses voyages | bien-voyager
Accesorios y electrónica que llevamos en los viajes | Los Viajes de Alba
Calzado para viajar | El Viaje de mi Vida
Qué saber antes de hacer un viaje largo | algo que recordar
Cómo preparar el equipaje para un viaje de larga duración | Mi equipaje de mano
Los 15 Regalos que todo viajero amará esta Navidad | Escapes por el Mundo
Comprar tecnología en Asia | Viajero Experience
10 razones para viajar sola y cambiar tu vida | Quiero Viajar Sola
Nos meilleures astuces pour trouver un billet d’avion pas cher | Love Live Travel
Las mejores almohadas para viajar | Travel Report
21 Signs You're Addicted To Travel | Beyond Blighty
10 least visited countries in the world – and how to reach them | Atlas & Boots
Conducir por Estados Unidos: Semáforos, carriles rápidos, parkings... | Planea con Lena
10 razones para viajar en solitario | Mil escapadas
Consejos para reservar hotel por Internet | Travel Report
¿Cuanto cuesta un gran viaje por el mundo? Presupuestos reales y plantilla | Sin Código Postal
Los países más seguros del mundo | Travel Report
Qué llevar en un viaje | 14 + 1 gadgets de viaje esenciales | Planea con Lena
Qué llevar en el equipaje de mano (Ryanair incluido) para viajes cortos | Surcar el mundo
Consejos de seguridad en viaje | Quiero Viajar Sola
Les 10 plus petits pays du Monde | Escale de nuit
Cómo gestionar el dinero en los viajes: efectivo, cambio, tarjetas... | Salta Conmigo
Razones para contratar un seguro antes del viaje | Lovely Planet
Los 5 destinos más frikis del mundo | Los Viajes de Domi
Ma première fois en auto-stop : 6 blogueurs voyage témoignent | histoires de tongs
Men's Backpacking Packing List - A Complete List for Every Adventure | Made to travel
Top 25 des destinations pour ton tour du monde en 2019 | Nomad Junkies
Mis consejos para viajar sola | Los Viajes de Ali
Timos en el sudeste asiático: como evitarlos | Viaje de aventura
Mejores tarjetas de crédito para sacar dinero en el extranjero (SIN COMISIONES) | Una idea un viaje
Nos sites indispensables pour bien préparer tes voyages | Love Live Travel
11 money saving travel tips from travel bloggers | Travelling Buzz
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7 Città Europee che devi visitare nel 2019 | Viaggio Vero
Viajar solo, ventajas y desventajas | Travel me Softly | Blog de viajes
Foto: Pixabay
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Home to Marrakech
Update: Days 1-2
Hi friends and family! As you probably know if you’re reading this, my family left yesterday for Morocco (from where I’ll be leaving to backpack in SE Asia for 2.5 months) and the past 24 hours have been stressful. Stress is to be expected when packing and catching flights but, as a family who travels a lot and pretty much has this thing down to a science, this was out of the ordinary. We celebrated Christmas yesterday morning which was lovely but left us with less than 3 hours to pack and my mom was coming down with something pretty quickly. I was in a particularly tough spot as I have 3 months to prepare for and only a 40L backpack to fit everything into.
With 1 hour til departure, I was still trying to find bug-spray, universal adapters, and practical shoes while my mom had stopped packing altogether to lie down. We began worrying that she might be feeling too ill to travel at all. As my dad was on the phone with the airline seeing if he could put my mom on a later flight, I rolled up my minimal amount of clothing as small as it could go praying everything would fit. In the end, the Uber arrived before we were ready but dangerously late to make it to JFK on time, my mom took a bunch of medicine and got herself to the car, and I just threw the rest of the things on my packing list into another bag in hopes I could sort through things in Morocco and send back whatever I didn’t need with my dad.
We all let out a sigh of relief once we were in the car and on our way but in the hurry, I hadn’t let it sink in that that would be the last time I saw my room or my house or my car (s/o Sabrina) for 3 months. Other than traffic, almost missing our flight, and Jeikson briefly losing his suitcase, the rest of the night went smoothly enough. I insisted on watching the new Mamma Mia on the plance even though my dad insisted I sleep early to prevent the inevitable jet-lag (and though now definitely jet-lagged, I have no regrets).
We landed in Casablanca this morning at local time (~4AM back home). We had a 3hr taxi to Marrakech which we spent sleeping and occasionally taking in the flat, surprisingly green, and palm-tree dotted landscape. First impressions are that few people here seem to speak English, all local women are fully clothed even though its above 70 degrees (Morocco is a majority Muslim country), and there energy and liveliness about the cobblestone streets and markets surrounding our tiny hotel teeming with vendors and worshippers. It’s slowly starting to hit me just how many cool things I’m going to see on this adventure.
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For solo travel, I have the tendency to gravitate toward structured journeys, like exploring a few cities in Scandinavia, road tripping through Northern California or seeing the Taj Mahal. It may be my Type tendencies, but my solo travel normally includes a packed travel plan with goals like fitting in bucket list tourist attractions or making it to a new continent. What I don't connect with solo travel is a tropical getaway. Palm-lined beach towns and scuba dive lessons aren't always top of mind for the traveler going it alone. Driving the coast of Maui, sailing in French Polynesia, or bronzing on the Riviera Maya are activities normally tailored to couples and families. After talking with 12 solo travelers who particularly looked for tropical locations, one thing is apparent to me: The island life is absolutely not scheduled for bachelorette celebrations, couples, college groups, and families any longer. Tropical destinations offer perfect itineraries (and costs) for when you have to leave from the hustle of reality-- you simply need to know where to go. And choosing a tropical destination does not imply you will not find must-see landmarks; get you a destination that can do both. Similar to all solo travel, you might have to provide yourself a push to in fact make your journey take place. Whether you're going through a big life modification and need time to procedure, you're taking a trip for work and wanting to extend your trip, or you're simply in desperate requirement of a change of speed, sometimes relaxing on a beach by yourself is precisely what the physician purchased. Here are 12 of the very best tropical destinations to explore on your own: Indonesia " After I turned 25, I decided to take a break from the nine-to-five and adventure throughout Europe and Asia. Every nation I have actually checked out so far has actually been incredible, however Indonesia absolutely owns the leading area on my favorites list. While the nation's natural appeal runs out this world, the people are exactly what made my experience there as a solo tourist so amazing. My favorite memory has to be losing my iPhone on the top of a volcano in East Java and having the phone back in my hands a couple of months later on after a regional found it and wanted to return it to its rightful owner. Much more than Bali, I 'd recommend Lombok, which is the island right beside Bali." Thailand " In February I went to the southern islands of Ko Tao, Ko Phangan, and Ko Samui prior to starting a brand-new job. The weather was definitely best, and if you're wanting to learn to scuba, this is the location to do it. As a solo traveler, it's so easy to fulfill individuals on snorkeling day trips or while island hopping or hiking the waterfalls. Nightlife on the Thai islands is likewise easy to find and an excellent place to meet people. If you're in the location for a half moon or moon celebration in Ko Phangan, definitely inspect it out!" Cambodia " I was dealing with an NGO in Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia, for the summer season and went for a five-day trip to Siem Reap to see the temples of Angkor Wat. It was definitely a more daring location to go alone, particularly as a girl, but it was really quite easy due to the fact that Siem Reap accommodates many tourists. My hotel, which was so inexpensive, had a tuk driver choose me up when my bus got in. They were greatly handy and available, and arranged for my to chauffeurs to and from the temples-- even when I went at dawn-- and from the kayaking journey I went on. The combination of having extremely knowledgeable guides and chauffeurs, plus the ability to roam the temples and town by myself and still feel comfy was the best part. It was equally independent and encouraging." Sri Lanka " I invested this April in a small surf town on the west coast of Sri Lanka. It was an unplugged trip-- I didn't even bring my laptop. My goal was to browse two times a day, everyday. With safe (and inexpensive) transportation options like the train or a taxi, Sri Lanka is appropriate for one. I 'd recommend scheduling a personal room in a hostel or a browse camp package, so you can satisfy other travelers. There are tons of backpackers making their way around the island, so it's simple to link up with other individuals. Sri Lanka attracts health-minded tourists, and there are tons of outside activities offered everywhere. Throughout the hectic season, many hostels will have yogi-in-residence-leading classes. I 'd suggest taking a break from the Lanka beach life and checking out the tea plantations around Ella. The mountainous train flight offers the views you have actually probably seen on your Instagram feed. As a solo female traveler, safety is constantly a concern, but the ease of getting around the island combined with the hospitality of locals made me feel protected." Turks and Caicos " It was my very first global solo trip ever, and it was remarkable. I was going through a separation and wanted to get my self-confidence back. I had never ever traveled worldwide by myself previously and believed if I could travel in a various nation by myself, then I can do anything by myself. I put a great deal of research study into safe locations before deciding on Turks. I desired a unwinded location where English was spoken. I was currently nervous and thought that if I didn't need to worry about interaction, it would relieve my nerves a bit. I liked that the island was small enough to bike from my hotel on the water to the small town close by, and everybody was so kind. The very best part was getting to just do what I wanted, when I wanted, and not need to fret about anyone else's viewpoint. It was certainly a good area for a solo traveler-- specifically a female solo tourist. I felt safe the whole time, even when I was cycling around checking out the town. I'm kind of spoiled, since now I 'd rather travel by myself than with other individuals." Laos " Residing in Asia supplies me with some excellent solo-travel destinations-- among my favorites being Laos. The backpacker culture makes it easy to keep to your own travel plan and still meet others to visit tourist attractions or divide a tuk-tuk with. Laos had whatever you might want from a sea to SE Asia: jungle treks, swimming in blue lagoons, and limitless natural charm. It does not have the same manufactured tourist feel as some other countries nearby, but still provides structure and support, which can be great when you are going it on your own. The best part is the street food-- don't miss the marketplaces and fresh sausage in Luang Prabang." Crete " I had a fantastic time in Crete and can't recommend it enough! Filled with small mountain towns and beautiful beaches on every side, there was a lot to check out. The island was gorgeous, the food tasty and distinctively Greek, and individuals were so friendly. Everybody I satisfied spoke an excellent quantity of English. I felt extremely safe the entire time I was there, even when walking the old quarter of Chania-- the city I stayed in-- at 1 o'clock in the morning." Bermuda " I went to Bermuda last September for my very first solo vocal. I actually enjoyed it due to the fact that it's incredibly near to the east coast, they speak English and take American currency, and the island is so little, it's super easy to browse on your own by means of motorbike or public transit. I mostly took the bus all over. I wound up Airbnb-ing it and leased a room in a lady's home. The island is totally manageable on your own. I found all the residents to be very helpful with instructions and recommendations. I likewise enjoyed Bermuda because if you desired, you might do all the action packed stuff (swim with dolphins, etc.) or simply sit on the beach all the time, which was more my speed. Likewise, if you want to venture around the island a bit, and you take the time to gain from the locals, there's a ton of more remote and quiet beaches that are not mobbed with tourists." Australia " Australia, particularly the Terrific Barrier Reef, was a container list destination for me. I invested a week checking out the reef and it was mind boggling. You might absolutely see the damage the reef has suffered, however the wildlife was indescribably lovely. I likewise spent time in Cairns, a location that's ideal for a solo traveler. You have simple access to the Fantastic Barrier Reef, Daintree Rain Forest, and the Tablelands. I felt safe throughout my journeys in Australia. Individuals were simply incredible-- I even lost my cell phone in a taxi and was able to get it back, thanks to the cabbie. I would advise Australia for any tourist but especially solos." Costa Rica " I cannot think of a much better place to travel solo than Costa Rica. From the beautiful coast line, to the rich rainforest, to the majestic cloud forest, there is a lot to see, do, and check out. Costa Ricans are famous for their laid back pura vida (pure life) mindset, and their spirit is as unwanted and welcoming as you might picture." The Galapagos, Ecuador " The Galapagos are ideal for solo travelers, whether you yearn for isolation or business. A cruise is the very best way to see the islands, and smaller sized ships, like Haugan Cruises, have common dining so you'll constantly have someone to talk with at supper. With a land-based stay on Isabela or Santa Cruz, you can reserve a day cruise or walk to see flamingos, huge tortoises, and sea lions. If you desire a swimming partner, sea lions and penguins enjoy to oblige." Miami " I actually was welcomed to dog-sit for my auntie, so that was the catalyst for this trip-- hey they're not paying for lodgings! It was my first solo journey, and I was in Miami enough time to obtain to understand the location, as well as embrace the self-reliance and solitude of traveling solo. Miami is a great area for solo travel: individuals I fulfilled were all very inviting, the food is sensational, and you have the choices to explore the city, do outdoorsy activities, or live that beach bottom life."
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Packing List for SE Asia
This time around, Blaze and I are traveling to SE Asia for 8 weeks. We plan to fly into Bangkok and travel in Thailand, Cambodia, maybe Laos, maybe Malaysia. This time around we made a very comprehensive packing list. This is my list. Blaze has his own list and we often share items like a razor handle and we each carry our own blades
This list looks like a ton of stuff, but it really isn't. In total it fills half of my 45 liter backpack and weighs about 16 pounds.
Clothing
Bathing Suit – 2 tops, 1 bottom
Dresses – 3 lightweight sleeveless dresses,
Shorts – 3, 2 pairs of regular shorts & 1 cozy shorts to travel or for sleep
Leggings – 1 pair, mostly for travel days on planes or trains
Capri yoga pants – good for exercise or for slight warmth
Elephant Pants- purchased last time we were in SE Asia & essential
Tank Tops – 4 Rain coat – lightweight, packs into it's pocket
Tennis shoes
Flip Flops – Shower sandals for those iffy showers
Sandals – Birkenstocks - basically a walking sandal with some support
Cardigans – x2 these are lightweight and nice for layering or for the inevitable sunburn
Socks – x3
Undies – x 6
Bralette – x3
Hat
Spandex Shorts
T shirt – x2
Electronics
Cell phone + charger
iPad + charger (same as my phone)
Camera + charger
Battery Backup
Bluetooth headphones
First Aid
Bandaids
Ibuprofen
Dramamine
Pepto Tablets
Charcoal pills - both pepto and this I don't normally use, but it was a lifesaver last time
Anti itch cream
Neosporin
Toiletries
Travel towel
Tweezers
Nail clippers
Deodorant
Floss
Shampoo
Conditioner
Camp soap or biodegradable soap
Razor + blades
Qtips – is anyone else dependent on these?
Baby wipes – we cut these in half and each carry a sandwich bag full. Wipes are essential for travel days or remote areas
Toothbrush + toothpaste
Tampons
Sunscreen
Bug spray
Personal
Travel Journal
Pen + marker
Books – x3 – I like to bring many so that it encourages me to finish the book so I can leave it for someone else
Passport ID + Debit Card – We have a Charles Schwab account which reimburses you for ATM fees and does not charge international fees. Last year we saved about $200 just in fees
Cash in small denominations – we only have this in case of emergencies
Neck pillow – this feels frivolous because I’ll likely only use it for the 14 hour plane ride there and back
Eye cover + ear plugs
Sleep sack – this is nice for travel days and also for hostels if you have any qualms about the cleanliness of a place you are staying. Also nice for sleeping outdoors in warm places. The material prevents bed bugs or mosquitos and other things from sneaking in and stays cool
Sunnies – x2 I usually end up losing or breaking a pair and it is BRIGHT there
Headlamp – great for hiking or reading
Day pack – packs down to a pocket size and is nice for small adventures
Travel wallet – Has multiple pockets and zippers and can hold my phone
Water bottle
Games – I carry pass the pigs and a deck of cards, Blaze is carrying Qwixx and bananagrams
Lock – used in hostels to secure belongings
Binoculars
GorillaPod – for photos with both of us
Compression Sack – for items purchased along the way
Makeup
Face Lotion
Mascara
Face powder with SPF
Eyebrow tint
Travel brush + mirror combo
Hair ties + bobby pins
That's everything. Did I forget anything? Hopefully not, but we will see!
#adventureswithmandiandblaze#seasia#wanderlust#travel#packing#backpacking#everythingbutthekitchensink
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The 'beg-packing' epidemic in SE Asia
The 'beg-packing' epidemic in SE Asia. Locals have been shocked to see white tourists begging in the streets of Malaysia, Hong Kong, Thailand and Singapore to raise money for their travels. While some just see it as bizarre, others are outraged by it, calling it an "orientalist fantasy".
“Beg-packers” is the word sometimes used to describe young Western tourists who play music or sell knick-knacks in the streets of southeast Asia to pay for their trips or to purchase their ticket back home. Photos of two couples doing just this have been widely circulated online. The first pair are sitting on the ground behind a cardboard sign that says "Support our trip around the world”, and are peddling postcards. Other photos show a different young man playing Pink Floyd and Guns ‘N’ Roses songs on the guitar and harmonica next to a cardboard sign with the same message. - - "We find it extremely strange to ask other people for money to help you travel" Maisarah Abu Samah These young people don’t seem to be in dire need, however — they own expensive equipment such as an amplifier. Maisarah Abu Samah, a young Singaporean, was startled by the strange scene and stopped to take these photos, which she published on her Twitter account. It was the first time I’ve seen something like that and it stopped me in my tracks. First of all, you don’t see many people selling knick-knacks or playing music in the street in Singapore because there are strict rules governing these activities. And, if you do happen to see street vendors or street performers, they are usually in the town centre and not near a bus stop in a relatively middle class neighbourbood like this. I’ve also never seen white people doing that. We find it extremely strange to ask other people for money to help you travel. Selling things in the street or begging isn’t considered respectable. People who do so are really in need: they beg in order to buy food, pay their children’s school fees or pay off debts. But not in order to do something seen as a luxury! Other wannabe travellers go online to do their own version of “beg-packing” by starting crowdfunding projects in the hopes of raising money for big trips. This culture seems to go hand-in-hand with the explosion of so-called "travel porn", where social media accounts and travel blogs post endless images of faraway destinations, in the aim of inspiring wanderlust in readers. Backpackers, known in Thailand as 'twat-packers,' are often viewed as the antithesis of organised trips and mass tourism. But even the romantic image of adventurers on the hunt for new horizons has transformed in recent years. Now, many see backpackers as Westerners who want to travel on the cheap — to the point of exploiting the locals. Benjamin Holst has a swollen left leg (he suffers from a condition called macrodystrophia lipomatosa) and has been allegedly using his condition to get people to help him out.
Benjamin Holst has a swollen left leg (he suffers from a condition called macrodystrophia lipomatosa) and has been allegedly using his condition to get people to help him out. . In Thailand, a German foundation gave him lodging after he claimed that he lost his passport and money. But he disappeared and resurfaced in Pattaya before authorities decided to kick him out. “Holst, aka the farang beggar with the big foot, was rescued in late September after he was found homeless on Khaosan Road. He received THB50,000 to get a flight home from Deutscher Hilfsverein Thailand, an organization that helps German citizens,” reported Coconuts Bangkok. “It took only about one day after he got hold of the cash for photos to turn up of Holst partying with bar girls in Pattaya, breaking the hearts of his well-meaning benefactors,” adds the report. After Thailand, Holst was photographed begging in the streets of Denmark. And he is now back in SE Asia and enjoying the sleazy part of Angeles City, Pampanga. How do we know? He very recently posted a photo of bar girls and a bathroom with a jacuzzi to his Facebook account. BangkokJack News Team – You can follow BangkokJack on Instagram, Twitter & Reddit. Or join the free mailing list (top right) Please help us continue to bring the REAL NEWS - PayPal Read the full article
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Laos PDR: Part II
Never ones to miss to a good bargain, we spent our last night in Luang Prabang checking prices at a dozen different travel agencies in search of the cheapest bus fare to Vang Vieng a river town 6-9 hours south of us (time range depends on type of bus, quality of driver, direction of wind, air in the tires, how often the driver stops to pee….really, any and every reason has come up before). Our Dutch friends from our hike in Northern Laos gave us a tip for a hole-in-the-wall place, and we successfully bought tickets for $2 less than every other operator in town.
We arranged to be picked up just outside our guest house at 6:30am and were told to be on the lookout for a silver passenger van. We were up, packed and out the door at 6:25am, only to realize that there was no way a big van could fit down our tiny alley. Maybe the van would be waiting for us on a main road near by? But which main road, since our guesthouse alley dumped out on either side of a main road? Camryn went left, I sped off to the right, and together we covered about 200 meters of road where this silver passenger van might pass.
6:30 turned to 6:45, to 7, to 7:15, to finally 7:30. Camryn and I had been pacing the road for a full hour, frantically waving at every silver van that passed by. Keep in mind… the Chinese New Year is still in full force, and the entire town Luang Prabang is crowded with Chinese tour groups driving in massive fleets of silver vans. We sure were a sight to behold -- two fully wired white people with big backpacks chasing down van after van after van, only to be completely ignored by the drivers.
At 7:30am, Camryn convinced a local shopkeeper to call our tour company and ask for a status update. Low and behold, not enough people had signed up for the early morning bus, and we weren’t going to be picked up until 9:30am. While we were frustrated that no one told us about the change… we also knew that it would have been impossible for them to let us know. We didn’t have SIM cards in Laos, and it’s not like we are Facebook friends with the bus operators. We bought some coffee, grabbed a pastry, and sat on the corner until our chariot arrived at 9:30am.
Of course, it didn’t actually arrive at 9:30. Or 9:45, or 10. Shortly after 10:15am, a silver van rolls by and Camryn and I once again performed our silver van dance. This time… it worked! Our van had finally arrived. Onwards to Vang Vieng.
Note about transportation in Laos: while distances may be short (Vang Vieng is only 220 km away from Luang Prabang), the roads are windy, hilly, full of potholes and dangerously skinny in width. At most, our van was rolling along at 40km/hour. The road between Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng, one of the main “highways” in Laos, is more reminiscent of a 4x4 fire road you would find in a U.S. National Forest. If you stretch the definition of pavement to include anything that even attempts to seal a road, you can call it sucesfully paved. As we travelled through the beautiful countryside, a thick smoke filled the air and almost blocked out the blue sky. Fires were spreading across the land, as the Hmong villages prepared for the wet season by slashing and burning their agricultural fields. The smell is quite pungent, but you get used to it after a while.
It’s common practice in SE Asia for bus drivers to stop along the way and pick up additional locals who are looking to go in our direction, assuming there are still open seats on the bus. Given the slow speed of transit, it’s quite easy for a local to stand on the roadside and flag down a driver. If the van is full it simply keeps driving past; however, if there are any openings, the driver quickly comes to a stop and discusses a price with the local. While we may pay $10 USD to go from A to B, locals getting picked up in this fashion may only pay $1-$2. The bus drivers never report these ‘additional passengers’ to their bosses, so all this becomes pocket money for the drivers. While drivers are not technically allowed to do this, and tour operators will advertise that their drivers don’t make these stops when you are booking tickets… it happens all of the time. Typically it’s no bother, as it only adds one minute per stop and there are usually open seats.
HOWEVER, on this particular journey, it got out of control. These additional local passengers, quickly outnumbering the western tourists paying full price for tickets, started doing their grocery shopping on our route! We must have stopped at 3-4 markets along the way, and waited (patience quickly vacating my body) while they picked the ripest papayas and mangos from streetside stalls. We stopped at a corner store so a passenger could pick up a big case of beer, and at one restaurant so a local could order food from the menu and wait for it to be packed up in a to-go container. We had easily added an extra 90 minutes to our journey when I came to my breaking point as we slowed down at another market. I piped up from the back of bus, quite loudly and full of frustration:
Driver! If you stop at this market, I will call your boss and tell him what you have been up to. I have his business card w/ email and phone number on it (this was a lie, I had no way to get in touch w/ anyone) and will happily tell him how you wasted over an hour of time time, and I’ll put it all over TripAdviser advising tourists to go with a different bus company. You have already made enough money from these people; they can do their shopping on their own time. I’m sure your boss won’t be happy to hear about this.”
At this point, all the locals turned to look at me, and even Cam wasn’t quite sure what to think about my frank conversation with the driver. Did he understand a word of what I was saying? Not sure, but he grumbled a few things, threw some nasty glances my way in the rearview mirror, and sped back up on the highway. Needless to say, we didn’t make any more unplanned stops. When we arrived in Vang Vieng, he pleaded w/ me not to contact his boss.
It is now 3pm and we’re exhausted, hot and both dealing with a bit of carsickness. One more hurdle to jump over before we can kick back and relax: where to sleep. We were unable to book lodging in Vang Vieng because (thanks, once again, Chinese New Year) the only listings left online were asking well over $100 USD per night, so we headed off on an epic journey through town to find a guesthouse. For context, it is mid 90 degrees outside and we have our big packs on our back and small packs on our front. Many guesthouses were full… a few were nasty… and one turned out to be right next door to a loud karaoke bar that only started playing music right after we had said yes to a room, checked in and laid down. We promptly returned the key and said NO THANK YOU. Always an adventure, right?
Like everything always does, it all worked out in the end. We made it to Vang Vieng safely and eventually we found a nice hotel in a good part of town with a queen sized comfy bed. We relied on each other for support (Cam was my rock that day; it was an emotional whirlwind for me, and I was totally spent and pretty much worthless by the end), and enjoyed long showers and some A/C before going to bed early.
^rooftop yoga at sunset
We spent four days hiking in the hills, kayaking and tubing down the river, and relaxing in this gorgeous riverside town while peering out at the massive karst cliffs surrounding us.
And most importantly... we made friends! One afternoon while relaxing at a riverside restaurant called “Smile Bar,” we struck up a conversation with the couple in the canopy next to us. Garrett & Sarafina are from Scottsdale, Arizona, and also quit their jobs to travel throughout Morocco and SE Asia for six months. We bonded over music festivals, our favorite bands, quitting our jobs, and the trials and triumphs of life on the road… and quickly realized they were kindred spirits who would become lifelong friends and travel partners of ours.
^ Smile Bar
These two are wonderful to be around and have added so much joy to our trip. Outgoing, spontaneous, kind, empathetic, spiritual, inquisitive… you name the positive quality, and they have it. To solidify the friendship even further… they are also keen to rise early in the morning and be in bed by 10pm. Our kind of people! As fate would have it, their rough itinerary for the next few months was nearly identical to ours, and we’ve now been travelling with them for almost a full month :).
From Vang Vieng we embarked on our first sleeper bus of the trip, with the final destination being Pakse. To our delight, Cam and I actually shared 1 bed (1 bed = 2 seats) so we were able to enjoy a nearly full night’s sleep. I can only imagine how awkward it would be to share a bed with a complete stranger, which would be the inevitable case if you chose to book only one seat. The guy across the aisle from us drank four beers in the hour leading up to the bus ride, and then promptly took two valium (we know this because he proudly told the whole bus and then offered up any valium if anyone around us would like it). We passed on the valium. That gentleman… he slept through both bathroom stops, not moving a muscle or changing his position for the entire 12-hour ride. We shouldn’t be surprised after what he ingested, and we were happy to see he was alive by the end of it!
As you may recall from our India posts, we last saw our Dutch friends -- Hans and Isabelle -- in Pushkar and had made rough plans to “meet up somewhere in SE Asia at a later date.” We stayed in touch every week or so, checking calendars and discussing ideas for a rendezvous, and finally reunited in Pakse as they were nearing the very end of their trip! It was was so wonderful to see them again after nearly two months apart, and over a sub-par Indian dinner (pro tip: don’t try to eat Indian food in a small town in Laos after spending two months eating the real thing)... we caught up on their latest adventures in India and southern Thailand and ours in northern Thailand and Laos.
Now we had a gang of six… a biker gang of six to be precise. Pakse is the launching point for the Bolovan Plateau, an area of Laos that is best explored by motorbike. The six of us (Garrett, Sarafina, Hans, Isabelle, Cam and myself) left our big packs at a guesthouse and rode off into the Laos countryside on three motorbikes, with one small daypack per couple. We spent two days riding nearly 300km through the rolling hills, jumping off waterfalls along the way whenever possible.
The highlight of our time on the Boloven Plateau took place on our first night in the town of Tad Lo. Camryn had read online that a nearby resort owns two elephants and bathes them in the river every night at 5:30pm. It was an incredibly intimate and authentic experience… and we didn’t pay a dime. In Thailand you’d pay well over $100 to spend five minutes with an elephant, and you’d be questioning just how fairly they were being treated the entire time.
The elephant we took a liking to was named Moon. She was 65-years-old and was retired after spending 40 years as a working elephant in the Laos countryside in the logging industry, conquering feats of incredible strength seven days a week. During this time she was always treated with respect by her crew, fed well, and never abused. This resort in Tad Lo bought her five years ago, and has been allowing her to live out her remaining years in peace and tranquility. She no longer works; she simply “hangs out” with the resort guests and eats huge amounts of bananas and sugarcane for dinner each night. We spent nearly two hours with Moon and the owner, asking a million questions and getting up close and personal with her. We felt the strength of her jaws, put our hands inside the holes where her tusks would have been if she had them, looked into her big beautiful brown eyes and gave her more hugs than we can count. There were no chains and she wasn’t drugged like many animals are in these situations… she was simply a happy, retired elephant who allowed us to experience her majestic beauty to our heart’s desire. Thank you Moon. We won’t ever forget you.
That night, we feasted! The six of us (plus two additional friends -- Chido and Daisy -- who we met in Pakse and were also doing the motorbike loop) settled down for dinner at a local guesthouse that only had one menu available for the entire restaurant. We swapped travel stories well into the night while passing around bowls of noodles, papaya salads, fresh fruit and ice cream. Four local kids between the ages of 4-10 (who we assumed were the restaurant owner’s kids) joined us and took a liking to our cell phones. Not the least bit shy, they sat on our laps and took selfies, played games and giggled like crazy. When our food came out, they grabbed forks and started shoveling down our fried noodles as if they hadn’t eaten in days! We couldn’t be too upset as the portions were HUGE and these kids were adorable… but it got a little out of hand as they ended up eating more than we did.
We joked that the reason the restaurant owner made the portions so big was so the guests wouldn’t get mad when their kids ate half of our meal… but then to our surprise the kids’ actual mom came over from next door and called them home without saying a word to us! They didn’t actually belong to the restaurant owner, but they had successfully gotten a free and delicious dinner out of us that night.
^ She always finds puppies.
^Main road in Don Det, 4k Islands.
Last on our list in Laos was the island of Don Det, which is located in an area of Southern Laos known as the 4,000 Islands. Don Det, the biggest of the islands, is without a doubt the chillest place we have been in Asia. A small dirt path runs around the island (5 mile circumference), and there are no cars or taxi’s. Here, our days were spent reading in the hammocks on the front porch of our bungalow, kayaking to smaller islands, eating green curry at the restaurant next door every single night for dinner (it was that good), and riding old rickety bicycles to the other side of the island for homemade ice cream.
In our next post, you’ll hear all about our adventures in Cambodia!
JJ
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