#aussieingermany

[avillageofamillionpeople]

The Sunburnt Country

After a year in the Northern Hemisphere it was time to head Down Under for some fun in the sun. We spent a whirlwind two weeks visiting family and friends, sipping countless coffees and getting our Vitamin D hit at the beach. The trip was too short, but it was great to be able to catch up with so many people. The highlight being able to celebrate the wedding of our friends down the South Coast in the beautiful coastal town of Merimbula. Even if we were suffering some serious jet lag during the reception.

Back in Sydney we played tourist in our own city and took a quick dip at Bondi, followed up with a coastal walk to Tamarama and some poached eggs for brunch. In the evening, we headed to some old favourites in Newtown and got dinner and a show when some glittery drag queens took to the stage. We explored the new and improved Barangaroo later in the week and caught a ferry to Kiribilli to see that iconic Sydney view.

Three days in my hometown of Port Macquarie wasn‘t long enough. I took advantage of the jet lag and got up early for a run to the beach to catch the sunrise. After a long winter in Germany it was nice to have toes in the sand and to float in warm, salty water. At my request my family spoiled me with a lamb roast, another thing I‘ve been missing lately in Germany.

Just to rush our trip even more we spent 48 hours in Melbourne. In true Melbourne style we had burgers and mac ‘n’ cheese tots in a train carriage on a rooftop but the best part was catching up with friends, both human and doggy.

See you soon ‘Straya

[annas-blog-world-blog]

Introduced our little Aussie to German christmas markets. 🇦🇺🎄🇩🇪 #christmastime #love #christmasmarkets #aussieingermany #familytime #fun #cold #whereisthesnow #rainygermany (hier: Weihnachtsmarkt Duisburg) https://www.instagram.com/p/BrpsGnVBdAmSyi0LjNqtrAsW0g5BzEBGuPQo7M0/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=5ey8it95ko7k

[hawaiitoastsmementos]

The last 26 hours with the precious @s.arahb.27 have been truly wonderful. We got to bake delicious cookies, spent time at the Christmas markets and most of all just enjoyed good company ❤️ #prechristmasdays #specialvisitor #aussieingermany #lovelovelove #osnabrueck (hier: Weihnachtsmarkt Osnabrück)

[avillageofamillionpeople]

Happy Hogmanay

We entered the new year staring up at fireworks twinkling over Edinburgh castle. It was a little colder than counting down on Sydney Harbour but nothing gloves and a scarf couldn’t handle. As the sky flashed, popped and fizzed we thought about all the travels and adventures we’d had in 2017 and made unrealistic plans for the year ahead.

We had a surprisingly cheap New Years as the street party organisers somehow allowed us to BYO drinks into the crowded event. However, we got a little more than we bargained for with a complimentary mosh pit trying to make it to the toilet.

On New Years Day after all hangovers had worn off we took a tour inside the medieval castle. We learnt a little bit of history but most importantly all about William Wallace and the factual accuracy of Braveheart. From the western side of the castle we had a view over the city and in the distance we got a glimpse of the sea. The sun was setting and it was beautiful except for the biting cold wind and the dreary on and off rain. I couldn’t understand why anyone would want to wear a kilt in this weather!

After leaving the castle we wandered down the Royal Mile in search of a pub for a hearty dinner. Instead we were bombarded with tartan in every conceivable form. Unlucky for us our own clan tartan was no where to be seen.

The pubs were crowded and we wandered down the picturesque West Bow (the street which inspired J.K Rowling’s Diagon Alley) and down into Grassmarket square below. Here we found a cosy pub with one table waiting for us. I was quick to order a hearty steak pie after spending a few hours outside in the wind and rain.

It was hard to say goodbye to Edinburgh, to old friends, and to consider the fact that I was straight back to work the following day.

“If ye like the nut, crack it” – Old Scots proverb

Happy Hogmanay!

[avillageofamillionpeople]

A merry little Christmas

I retreated to the UK (and Ireland) to speak the Queen’s English for Christmas and New Years. I was especially excited for traditional pub food and to be more specific I really wanted a good pie. The pie gods delivered and I devoured a total of five pies in about 10 days. Note to self: make pie related new year’s resolution in 2019.

We started our trip off in London and made the most of our central location in Holborn. Our first stop on the tube was St Paul’s. From here we walked to the Thames and crossed the Millenium Bridge. Luckily no Death Eaters (Harry Potter reference) were in sight and we made it to the Tate Modern for a bit of art.

On Christmas Day with the tube out of action we decided to pre-emptively walk off lunch. We walked east and sipped hot chocolates from Pret a Manger overlooking the Tower of London and crossed the Tower Bridge. We had Christmas lunch at Anchor Bankside a hearty pub on the south side of the river near Shakespeare’s Globe. Here we enjoyed turkey and roast veggies and sipped glasses of champagne. We pulled crackers and wore silly paper crowns like we would Down Under. The only difference was that our long sleeves weren’t rashies for sun protection but down filled jackets to keep the cold out. After lunch we retreated to our cosy little apartment to watch Christmas movies for the night and rub our very full bellies.

On Boxing Day we enjoyed a solid brunch and good coffee and then explored Westminster, Kensington and the busy shopping areas of London. The sun was out and it was great to walk through beautiful gardens where squirrels were hyperactively chasing each other through the trees.

The following day we flew to Dublin. Our first stop (after coffee) a whisky tasting, where we learnt all about why Irish Whisky is better than Scottish Scotch. Afterwards we sipped hot toddys, ate soup with soda bread and listened to classic rock covers in the lively pubs in Temple Bar.

While in Dublin we took the train about 30 minutes to the coastal town of Dalkey. Here we wandered through tiny village streets with stone walls and quaint cottages (some more like mansions). The narrow streets eventually opened up to the coastline and we could see a little private deserted island just offshore. It was now about 3 pm and the sun sat low in the purple and pink tinged sky. We stood here for a minute taking in our surroundings before climbing another hill and into an overgrown park at the top of the headland. Here we had the perfect view of the wild coastline to the South sprinkled with tiny villages and far off in the distance some mountains frosted with snow. This really inspired me to consider planning a road trip through Ireland in the future.

Back in Dublin for dinner we took ourselves to see some traditional Irish folk music. Here we were blessed with the Irish bag pipe and piano accordions, but unfortunately no Irish flutes were playing the soundtrack to Titanic. However, the music was well accompanied by creamy glasses of Guinness, which were much better in their home town. The only thing we missed out on was some fun Celtic dancing but we’ll save that for the next time we’re in Ireland.

“It’s easy to halve the potato where there’s love.” – Old Irish Proverb

[avillageofamillionpeople]

Ich bin ein Hamburger

Like JFK was sold on Berlin (and doughnuts) I’m sold on Hamburg and hamburgers. It was a wet, windy and cold weekend but we found some good places to shelter from the weather and to get a good feel for the city. Uber early on Saturday morning we took the intercity express from Munich to Hamburg Hauptbahnhof, which took about 6 hours. A little longer than taking a plane but the advantage was that we arrived right in the middle of the city and only a few hundred metres from our hostel. We dropped off our luggage and made sure to be dressed for the occasion in fluffy winter boots, gloves, scarves and hoods before heading out to explore the city.

We wandered towards Jungfernstieg and the Inner Alster the smaller of two lakes in the city. The lakes were created as early as the 13th century by damming the little Alster river. Here the lake was lined with little huts setting up for Christmas markets and department stores were framed with Christmas lights. The footpaths were wide and the pedestrians were rushing about like locals unlike visiting Marienplatz in Munich on a Saturday at midday.

We decided to make a first pit stop to refuel and defrost with some coffee, which I accompanied with a delicious pastel de nata (Portuguese egg tart). Once we felt strong enough we ventured out again. This time towards the St. Nikolai Memorial - a Gothic Revival church that was bombed during the second world war with only the spire still standing. We paid the 5 euro to take the lift 76 m up the spire and got a view over the city. The sun came out at an opportune moment and we could see the port in the distance, the striking silhouette of the new Elbphilharmonie, the UFOs stacked on Hamburg’s tv tower and below us the Rathaus (town hall).

In the afternoon we wandered towards the warehouse district of Speicherstadt and the new Hafencity, crossing canals over wooden bridges and platforms. The wind picked up and the last bit of sun disappeared as we neared the harbour. I was grateful for winter boots but wishing my gloves were a little bit thicker. In the distance, we could see the wave-like Elbphilharmonie now lit up and we decided to walk closer to inspect it. To celebrate the theatre opening earlier this year we were granted free entry to the plaza level and took the opportunity to walk the terrace that wraps around the building. From here we got an awesome view of Hamburg and the port at night.

All this exploring and probably the cold weather had made us hungry again and by chance, we found an inviting Greek restaurant nearby. The restaurant was large but the space fully utilised with a well-stocked central bar lit with neon orange undershelf lighting. Downstairs we caught a glimpse of a wine cellar, which prompted me to order a glass of red wine. A friendly waiter served us complimentary taramasalata and soft bread, allowed us to practice bad German and obliged us our very Australian free tap water request. We ordered shared plates of hummus, pimientos, a poached egg and feta salad with filo pastry and the main event calamari from the grill. And to finish all four of us (to prevent food envy) ordered a rich mousse au chocolat. The menu ‘boasted food created by the gods’ and I was not disappointed.

To walk off our dinner we waddled towards the notorious red light district of Reeperbahn. Here we found a Christmas market in full swing. Featuring a heater hanging above our heads like a short-circuiting powerline. We struggled to walk through the crowds and decided against the line for glühhwein. Instead, we thought we’d enjoy the seedy streets. 

The main street was lit up like the strip in Las Vegas and bars were competing with loud music and girls offering discounted drinks at the door. A multitude of women stood along the street wearing puffy jackets, leggings and bright sparkly ugg boots. I was happy to see them dressed for the weather but sad to see some of them chase after men brave enough to venture the streets alone. While the boys checked out the men's only street, Herbertstraße, (which apparently featured women in windows like in Amsterdam) the girls waited patiently on the street. Hoping to not be mistaken for the working girls.

In the morning we went in search of good coffee and we found it at Nord Coast Coffee Roastery. We were seated at a long wooden bench table right by a window overlooking a canal and old Tudor style buildings. The perfect scene to enjoy a coffee and some breakfast. I chose a medium blend coffee aptly named Black Opium. Proving as addictive as opium I ordered a second with my breakfast, mini banana pancakes with a lime mascarpone, maple syrup and fruit. Köstlich!

Now ready for the day we caught a ferry to Dockland and walked up the staircases on top of the angular building to the observation deck. From here we could really appreciate the size of the port and the industry surrounding it. We didn’t last too long in the cold and wind and hurried down the stairs, heading in the direction of the fish markets. The markets were well and truly over by the time we arrived. Instead of markets we were met with street sweepers and flocks of seagulls both trying desperately to clean up.

We couldn’t visit Hamburg and not eat Hamburgers so for lunch we visited Otto’s Burgers in Sternschanze. I devoured a veggie burger made with the juiciest mushroom and some cheesy chipotle and guacamole fries. Afterwards, we hoped to check out more of the suburb and in particular street art. Unfortunately, the rain set in and so our tour was cut a little short.

Our last major stop in Hamburg was at the Minatur Wunderland. The largest model railway in the world and a definite highlight of the trip. The model spans multiple countries. In Switzerland, you’ll find the Matterhorn, ski fields, and a working Lindt chocolate factory. In Italy the Vatican, the Colosseum, and Vesuvius. Knuffingen airport runs day and night with planes taking off and landing. The model of Cinque Terre even gave me some inspiration for future travels!

Moin Moin from Hamburg!

[avillageofamillionpeople]

Weekends are for brunch

When my German friends and colleagues ask me what food is typically Australian I generally respond with “Brunch!” My answer often gets some pretty puzzled looks. Of course, Germany has breakfast and brunch…but they just don’t do it Aussie style.

As my Aussie friends know, Australian cities and towns are absolutely packed with breakfast and brunch options. Sydney doesn’t disappoint with green smoothies on the go, acai bowls by the beach, eggs benedicts in the city, breakfast burgers in the burbs and pancakes for those who like it sweet. We wash it all down with world class coffee and the odd matcha latte.

Europe feels a little newer to the brunch game. Maybe they hibernate in the morning to avoid the cold weather. Don’t get me wrong we’ve found some awesome spots for early breakfast and long brunches on our travels. However, Munich seems to be a little bit of a late bloomer with everyone appreciating a good sleep in and opting for croissants and machine coffee from bakeries. Most places don’t open till 10 or 10.30 in the morning for breakfast, which would be a rare occurrence for a beach side café in Australia.

When we aren’t jet setting for a long weekend or enjoying the German nightlife a little too hard we set out in search of new breakfast and brunch haunts. As I’ve been here for over 8 months now I thought I’d give you a couple of my top picks so far.

LAX Eatery is the closest thing you’ll find to an Aussie cafe. As the name suggests it’s based on the breakfast menus you would find in Los Angeles and it won’t disappoint. If you like your breakfast sweet you’ll find awesome pancakes and the undisputed best French toast in Munich. If you like to start your day with healthy fats than order avocado toast topped with a fried egg and sprinkled with chili salt. Breakfast burritos, acai bowls, overnight oats and banana bread are also featured on the menu. As you can imagine we are regulars here!

For a more traditional German breakfast and a cult favourite in Munich head to Cotidianos. My favourite thing here is the alps breakfast – a lye croissant (like a baked pretzel on the outside but croissant on the inside) stuffed with scrambled eggs, goat cheese and chives. They have beautiful breads and spreads and if you are a chocoholic they serve up an XL mocha.

There is a serious lack of poached eggs in Munich. The best I’ve had are from Joon. The Stulle Avocado serves up poached eggs on a bed of rocket, cherry tomatoes, and avocado crème all on a crunchy piece of brown toast. They also serve pancakes, muesli and huge salads for lunch. You can also pimp your coffee with flavours. My personal favourite is cinnamon.

For a healthier option head to Daddy Long Legs. You can order an acai bowl or earth bowl to eat in or take away. The acai bowl comes with homemade granola. Just pick your toppings – fruits and superfoods, not lollies. Your earthbowl will be made up of quinoa, avocado, baby spinach, red cabbage, carrot and a tangy dressing and can be bulked up with seasonal vegetables, feta, an egg, or some chicken. You could also opt for a smoothie, coffee, tea or a slice of banana bread.

For everything homemade try Kaffee Küche. Translating to coffee kitchen in English this cosy little café is inviting in the cold weather and offers sunny outdoor seating in Rosenheimerplatz for summer. You’ll find homemade bagels, paninis, quiches, muesli pots, chia puddings, eggs and more. They also have you covered for teas, coffees, hot chocolates or alcoholic beverages if you are ready for a stronger drink.

Honourable breakfast mentions in Munich: Das Maria, Hungriges Herz, Morso, Tagescafe and Mahlefitz

Schönes Wochenende und Guten Apetit!

[avillageofamillionpeople]

Oktoberfest hearts

[avillageofamillionpeople]

The eternal city

Allora! When Vueling offered us 35 euro flights from Munich to Rome return we jumped at the opportunity and booked a long weekend away. We spent our mornings discovering ancient Roma, taking our espressos to go, munching on the flakiest of chocolate croissants. Our afternoons wandering narrow terracotta coloured streets, devouring meat and cheese boards and of course sampling all the gelato. Before dinner we took naps to escape the 35 degree heat and to rest our feet. Heading out again once the sun had dropped for some drinks and to continue eating too much.

Our base was a short walk from the Trevi Fountain where police officers gasped for breath between blows of their whistles. Tourists were only discouraged for a few seconds before trying to capture another selfie sitting on the edge of the fountain.

We spent much of our last day wandering the Trastevere rione where the streets were lined with small boutiques, cafes, restaurants and bars. Here washing hung from windows above us and bougainvilleas draped over entire walls. We filled our water bottles with cool fresh water from the endlessly trickling taps scattered across the city.

The metro offered us transport in some cases but the bus was no where to be found. We well surpassed our step count for the weekend and experienced true Italian driving opting for a half price taxi to the airport.

Ciao

[avillageofamillionpeople]

Road trippin’

Driving at 150 km/h top down in a convertible isn’t for those who want to have good hair. Using our raincoat hoods as protection and fashion statements we whizzed down the autobahn and into Switzerland. We spent our first few days exploring valleys, chasing waterfalls, catching sneak peaks of Jungfrau and her brothers and sisters through the fog. We saw Swiss men in traditional costumes ringing cow bells the size of toasters with not so subtle thrusts of their hips. 

We stayed the night in Interlaken and then Mürren (1,638 m up) before heading to Zermatt. Here we hiked the stunning 5 lakes walk, entered a gorge after hours, spied on Marmots and enjoyed a few bottles of red wine.

Our next stop was Chamonix and Mont Blanc. Here I had a graceful encounter with the pavement but I successfully saved the life of my fantastic breakfast sandwich. My freshly cut-up hand and I rode the cable car up to Aiguille du Midi. The views of Mont Blanc and the neighbouring Alps were mind blowing. We saw tiny ants below us winding their way across snowy slopes, a man in ski’s teetering on the edge of a ridge 3,800 m up before effortlessly drifting down, and climbers scrambling up rock faces to reach the peak we were standing on. This was my favourite view on the trip! 

A little less adventurous than some we rode the cable car half way down and hiked between Aiguille du Plan and the ever-receding glacier, Mer de Glace. We followed our hike with a well-deserved dinner of epic burgers with waffle fries. Chamonix you have definitely won me over!

We followed Chamonix with a quick overnight stop in Geneva and a visit to Cern, the particle accelerator. My least favourite stop on the trip. 

At lunch time we made it to the sunny city of Grenoble.We wandered through parks, had French baked goods for lunch and lazed like proper Europeans in the afternoon. For dinner, we hit up La Ferme a Dede at the suggestion of a friend. I had an epic salad with eggplant, goats cheese and a poached egg. While the brave among us opted for steak tartare. Soon after they were whispering to the porcelain gods!

We decided to stroll through a park over the river at sunset. Suddenly this stroll��turned into us climbing uneven stairs and tip-toeing through tunnels in the dark up to the 18th-century fortress above. Luckily the full moon offered a little light and there were no more trips or injuries acquired.

The next morning we were pleasantly surprised when we caught up with our local Frenchy who was on a last minute visit from the US. The best surprise of the trip!

Hopping back in the convertible we wound down windy roads and under rock faces following brave cyclists. We stopped to go spelunking. The caves were cold and wet with thousands of tiny stalactites hanging from large open halls and pools with crystal clear water. We were surprised at the end of our tour with an epic light show and rave. Unfortunately, Sandstorm by Darude didn’t make the playlist.

It was mid afternoon and with stomachs rumbling we continued down windy local roads. We stopped in a small town called Pont-en-Royans and ate at a cafe perched on a terrace overlooking the river below. After lunch, we wandered down the stairs. Here we saw the strangest thing on our trip. A baby grand piano on a raft floating in the river. Apparently, an outdoor evening concert was in store.

We spent the night in Aix-en-Provence. A university town with outdoor bars and restaurants flooding the streets. We saw street artists break dancing to the Gladiator soundtrack and had epic eggs for breakfast.

The next day we went in search of the Mediterranean Sea. Parking up on the dusty hillside we wandered down a rocky track. A 40-minute walk was promised to reach Calanque d’en Vau. However, in usual style, we went off track down a rocky hillside and I almost caused a landslide and rolled about 10 ankles. An hour later we emerged at a beautiful inlet surrounded by cliffs. The water was chilly but refreshing after our long journey. We spent hours here enjoying the sunlight. As the sun dipped behind the cliffs we started the long journey back. By this time I had finished my 3 water bottles and was dying of thirst. 

We spent the following day tracing the coastline of the Côte d'Azur. Having a convertible made the drive even more enjoyable. We stopped for a quick dip and lunch and continued to Antibes for dinner. We had awesome Italian (in France) and enjoyed dusk in the old town.

We spent the next two nights in Nice and had time to wander the foreshore, check out the old town, swim at the pebbly beach, eat too many great breakfasts, and visit the ridiculous Monaco. We spent our last evening here watching the sunset from the beach and talking nonsense with quite a few takeaway wine bottles. The next day a sleep in, a croissant for breakfast and a quick dip was the perfect recovery.

By mid-afternoon the recovery was wearing off and we had a long drive ahead to Rapallo in Italy. So all three passengers took the luxury of naps. Whoops! 

Rapallo was a cute port village with buildings painted with ridiculous decorations. Fake brickwork and windows almost fooled and gave the illusion of grandness. Swallows swooped between roofs in the warm air and elderly Italian men sipped espresso in large groups and exclaimed ‘Allora!’ In the evening we found a mysterious red carpet running along the port and followed it around the headland to the next tiny village. 

The following day we caught the ferry to San Fruttuoso, where we swam in transparent waters, enjoyed a traditional pesto lasagne for lunch and snorkelled out to see Jesus of the Abyss. We stopped in the late afternoon at Portofino for some pizza and walked the entire red carpet back to Rapallo. For dessert, I had gelato because it would be rude not to.

We made a quick stop the next day for lunch and more importantly gelato in Milano before heading to Lake Como. Roads became even more narrow and wound tighter between buildings, and of course, drivers got worse. Here our base was Bellagio. A cute old town on the hillside overlooking the lake. Here we spent the last night of our trip and were spoilt with a vibrant pink sunset.

Salute!  

[avillageofamillionpeople]

My top 5 coffees in Munich

I’ve been in Munich for almost 3 months and in that time I have done some serious coffee hunting. Munich sure does know how to do a bad coffee so I thought it my duty to the good people of this deprived city to share my learnings. These are my current top 5 coffees (circa May 2017). Let’s start at number 5 for suspense.

5. Joon (Maxvorstadt) - cinnamon or “zimt” cappuccinos need I say more

4. Mahlefitz (Neuhausen) - they know how to roast

3. Café Blá (Au-Haidhausen) - Nordic flat whites

2. Man versus Machine (Glockenbachviertel & Maxvorstadt) - a cult favourite. The mainstream #1, so obviously my #2

1. Standl 20 (Schwabing) - underrated and over delivering. Tucked away in  Elisabethmarkt and practically my local so maybe I’m a little biased

einen Kaffee, bitte

[avillageofamillionpeople]

Munich by neighbourhood

I live in Maxvorstadt, just north of the city centre. Potentially the coolest neighbourhood in Munich. It is the university or museum quarter and during the day you’ll find thrifty upcycled clothes, hipsters brewing coffees, restaurants suited to every dietary requirement and cultural taste and museums old and new. At night cafes turn into underground bars.

It’s a young crowd and it still alludes me how students can afford to live here on their limited budgets. Particularly, as my cute but cosy furnished apartment near Josephsplatz costs me a pretty penny. My glass-walled balcony with a leafy outlook helps me to deal with both the price and the cosiness. This is a temporary apartment and I’ll be here for a total of 6 months so we are currently on the hunt for a slightly bigger option.

Let’s begin the hunt in Altstadt or the old town, in the centre of Munich. Host to Marienplatz, Karlsplatz and the lovely Viktualienmarkt you’ll find great architecture and shopping here. You are well connected with all S Bahn and U Bahn lines running through the city. However, it is super busy on Saturdays and dead on Sundays with all shops and many cafes being closed. Definitely an area better suited to high-flying corporates and maybe not my scene.

Just to the east of the old town is the suburb of Lehel. The oldest suburb of Munich it stretches to the Isar and north to the English Garden. It has beautiful architecture, high end dining and shopping on Maximilianstraße. Its residential area is more tranquil than the city centre or Maxvorstadt. You know you’ve made it when you have an apartment here. The question is…will Lehel have me?

Let’s jump south to the Glockenbachviertel a neigbourhood just south-east of the old town. Vibrant, fun, funky, a little grungy and gay (in both personality and sexuality). Just like Maxvorstadt this suburb offers cafes, restaurants, and boutiques. But unlike Maxvorstadt, which is adjacent the English Garden Glockenbach has the river. On sunny days people will picnic or BBQ down on the pebbly banks or eat lunch around the blooming Gärtnerplatz. Bars and clubs come alive after sunset and only retire with the dawn. A nice atmosphere and promising location with great S and U Bahn connections.

If we head north of Maxvorstadt we enter the former bohemian quarter Schwabing. A very exclusive area but with great access to shopping, cafes, restaurants and bars. It’s a quick stroll to the beer gardens in the English Garden so it is no wonder this is a popular area for young professionals, ex-pats and tourists. I think I can fit in here.

We end our tour just to the east of the Isar in Au-Haidhausen or the French quarter. Originally a poor workers area it is now one of the most popular residential areas. Apparently, it is the new, quieter and less touristy Schwabing. On sunny days cafes spill out onto the picturesque Roseinheimer Platz and Weißenburger Platz. Many small boutiques line the streets and it’s just a quick S Bahn ride to the city. All very promising.

[avillageofamillionpeople]

Eat like a Bavarian

A Bavarian diet is what I imagine they prescribe someone training for a body building comp. It’s big and bold. And it soaks up those 1 litre steins like magic. However, my dirndl is always a little too tight after I indulge.

If you want to go all out for dinner order “schweinshaxen” or pork knuckle. Crackly on the outside, melt in your mouth on the inside. Generally served with a giant potato dumpling. After you devour this meal you are likely to be somewhere in the realm of 1-2% pork. The pork knuckle at Haxnbauer in Munich can cure the hangriest of people.

If you are after a quick snack or something to share over a beer grab a pretzel or “brezen” in Bavarian. They are made of lye bread, which makes them crunchy and brown, kind of like they’ve had a good spray tan. They are generally seasoned with big chunks of salt, which the locals tell me you are actually meant to pick off before you eat. A warm giant pretzel from the beer garden at Augustiner Keller always goes down a treat and is an adequate meal replacement.

If you are looking to start your day right order a traditional Bavarian breakfast or “Weißwurst Frühstück.” A “weißwurst” is white sausage made with ground veal and pork. This sausage is thick. Don’t expect some slender snag that cooks on the BBQ in 3 minutes. It’s often served in a water bath and you peel it before you eat it. It’s accompanied with sweet mustard or “suß senf”, which Bavaria definitely does better. A pretzel adds some crunch, and wash everything down with a “weißbier” or wheat beer.

If you are after a classic make sure to get a Wiener Schnitzel. Originally from Vienna but Bavarian’s also do it justice. Cranberry sauce and lemon add just a little something. If you would like to step it up a notch order the Munich Schnitzel (when in Munich). It has horseradish in the crumb. We didn’t know this and legitimately thought we’d been poisoned with strong cleaning products.

And finally, If you want to satisfy that sweet tooth order Kaiserschmarm. A shredded pancake dusted with icing sugar and served with an apple jam. Named after an emperor who couldn’t get enough. It’s really fit for a king. One of my favourites is from Wirtshaus Zum Straubinger.

Guten Apetit!

[avillageofamillionpeople]

Views of Walchensee

My first hike in the Bavarian alps. Off to a good start, we got the assistance of the ‘Herzogstandbahn’ or cable car, which took us 800 m above Walchensee. The view of the turquoise lake below was breathtaking with snowy alps framing the picture.

We hiked for an easy 20 minutes to the top of Herzogstand where the view extended to the north towards Kochel am See and over Bavarian fields. Tibetan prayer flags hung to remind us that we had achieved some great mountaineering feat. This was some nice encouragement.

We then took on the ridge walk towards Heimgarten. The track here narrowed and we had to scramble down uneven rocks. On the shadowy side of the peak, the track turned icy before emerging back out onto the ridge. Views continued in every direction as cliffs dropped off on either side of the track. I was beginning to understand a fear of heights.

At one point the track was barely wider than a footprint with just a cable to hang on to. All of that Tibetan prayer flag courage was now gone. We hiked to the next peak before retracing our steps rather than continuing the long round trip down the mountain through thick forest. On the way back across the ridge, we passed many hikers. Some armed with hiking poles other brave hikers walking their dogs. 

I was glad to be wearing proper hiking boots but I will definitely be visiting this hike again and the lake in summer for a swim.

Bis bald

[avillageofamillionpeople]

Springtime

The sun was out all weekend. I decided to take my new wheels out for a spin down the Isar. Wide gravel paths followed the river and I could see the occassional person sunbaking on a rocky sand bank. Here I saw my first nudist for the season. He was proudly perched on his towel as if he was giving mental sun salutations. So at peace...but also so naked. 

We then took the ride north through the Englischer Garten. I perfected dodging people, the slow awkward hover and timely bell ringing. To finish the ride off we offered love to the biergarten gods. Opting for Seehaus on the lake as the weather was so agreeable. It was packed and we only got a bench with partial sun. To make up for this we shared a giant warm pretzel (or "breze") with Obatzda. A Bavarian cheese dip so rich I couldn't finish it. And we all know how I feel about cheese!

On Sunday we headed on the S-bahn to Starnberger See. A lake 25 km south west of Munich. When we arrived we had lunch by the lake edge and then walked around the lake to next town named Berg. Where we oggled at extravagant Bavarian estates.

The lake was crystal clear. I put my hand in to test and it wasn't nearly as cold as expected. There is hope yet for summer.

Tschüss

[avillageofamillionpeople]

A day trip to the beautiful Regensburg. Warm enough for sunnies and singlets