#anjajavy

[boutiquetravelexperts-blog]

In Anjajavy you can see the giant tortoises which were repatriated here in 2018 for the first time, after several centuries of absence . This project aims to re-establish ecologically powerful animals so that they can improve ecosystem resilience and sustain biodiversity. They are trully magical and their numbers grow. https://buff.ly/3qUbvMf #turtles #turtoise #madagascar #anjajavy #majunga #wildlife #giantturtle #africa https://www.instagram.com/p/ClGp1afM5sH/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

[magnicifent]

Anjajavy lHôtel, Madagascar

[carlos-salgado]

Anjajavy lHôtel, Madagascar

[shoegazinyourwaves]

Anjajavy lHôtel, Madagascar

[mindsh0cks]

Anjajavy lHôtel, Madagascar

[simsteriaconv]

Anjajavy lHôtel, Madagascar

[a-pixel-perfect-world]

Anjajavy lHôtel, Madagascar

[setquartertileplacementon]

Anjajavy lHôtel, Madagascar

[bobbinacrossafricatake2]

Guardian Angel

June 1 & 2, 2024

We love our itinerary, but the reality is that with the three countries we chose, there’s non-trivial travel between them. We packed up and had our last, relaxing breakfast at Anjajavy. Rather than tipping guides as we went, we singled out the guides who led most of our activities and gave them individual tips the night before. It was so nice that as we hung out for a bit in the lodge waiting for our transport the the airstrip, each guide came over, thanked us, chatted a bit and urged us to come back and/or tell our friends to come visit. There’s a bit of an air of concern for the travel industry here, on which the locals depend so much!

The flight was one of the bigger little planes with the honeymooners sharing the space with us; same pilot who got us to Anjajavy in the tiny plane. On arrival, we were met by an airport escort who drove us the five minutes to the international terminal. We passed by men bringing their zebus to market and a group of dressed up folks at a church for a wedding. It’s quite limited on who can enter the terminal, so he dropped us off in front, assuring us there’s a restaurant inside. Alas, we were unable to check in yet, so were relegated to siting on a concrete block. At one point we tried to go to check in and the guard said they’re not checking in our flight yet. Jill pointed out that this board shows that indeed checking in has started and he annoyedly said no, not checking in yet. Needless to say, we went back to our concrete block. In need of water, Seb went to the little sundry shop where they wouldn’t take USD or a credit card for such a small amount. So she stood in line for currency exchange which would not change less than $5.00. That came out to 22,200 Malagasy Ariary, which got us water, crackers and chocolate. What else would we get with money we would not be able to use after leaving Madagascar?

After we could finally check in (not particularly streamlined), we arrived in a new, quite modern terminal. We had a bite at the restaurant and hung out until we boarded. While waiting, a young woman who works for the company that designed the airport asked us to complete a survey. It was a good way to pass time, although we probably were not the best targets. This flight was less comfortable and more crowded than the others we’ve had, but on arrival it seemed that most folks were connecting, so getting through immigration and customs was easy and quick.

Then, we hit our first big snag of the trip. We kept looking for our normal “Bobbin X2” sign and none was to be seen. We emerged street-side where 10-15 folks were waiting with signs. Still nothing for us. Did we miss him/her? What to do? After a few minutes, we started looking up POCs on our spiffy TravelKey app from Mike. We’ve not needed such numbers, but knew they were there. Jill tried calling Nomad Tanzania on WhatsApp (trickier than one would think) and finally raised them. We tried calling the Emakoko (our hotel for the night) and it was all a bit confusing. Jill tried to re-enter the airport to see if we’d missed our contact but she couldn’t get back in. At that point, Ruth, our guardian angel and a Raddison Blu rep, approached and took charge. She made calls, while we tried, as well. Turns out Bush & Beyond was in charge of us, whose number we didn’t have, but Ruth did. Yay. Her friend, Purity, is the airport B&B rep. Hurrah. Not only did we not have B&B’s contact info, but they hod incorrect info for our arrival. They expected us on a KLM flight (we think the flight we’re leaving on in 7 days) at almost midnight. Yikes! Thank goodness for Ruth! Purity reportedly ran across the parking lot, arranged a vehicle on the spot to take us to the entrance of Nairobi National Park, where the Emakoko driver/guide, Jackson, picked us up. It all took a few hours. If we had to have a mess up, this was the place to have it, but given Sarah has a wicked cold, it was exhausting.

Jackson drove us across the park with views to the lights of Nairobi in the distance and planes coming in overhead. The park at night seemed quite flat, but as we approached the Emakoko, the road went bumpily down into a valley, across a little bridge and to the other side.. The Emakoko is lovely! We both wished we weren’t so tuckered, but passed on a late dinner and the hotel sent soup and bread up to the room. Seb ate and colllapsed. Jill FT’ed her mom and putzed on the pad for a while before going to sleep. It was a good night’s sleep, even if short and briefly disturbed (for Jill) by creatures having a party on the roof.

In the morning, we could better appreciate the beautiful room, balcony overlooking the valley, and when coffee was delivered at 6:00 AM before our 6:30 game drive, it was pure heaven. Tempted to roll over, Seb rallied. Just as we were finalizing our packs for the morning, the power went off. No problem! There was just enough light to see the last few things we needed to pack up or stash in a locked duffel (our security SOP). We headed out to the lobby… then problem! We were in one of the upper five rooms, up a huge cliff and accessible by a funicular. With the power off, the funicular did not work. So, we took the steep steps next to the track. Jackson was ready for us when we got to the lounge. When told him about taking the steps, he seemed a little surprised and admitted to an alternate path, much longer with a shallower incline. Off we went to look for wildlife, hoping the power to be restored in the meantime.

There’s nothing like being out on a game drive early in the morning. Solitude, except for animals starting their days. Fresh air and a clear view as far as the eye can see. The Nairobi National Park was just as exhilarating, but different. It was cold… not what we have had in Namibia and Madagascar (but similar to our 2018 experience). As it is a public park, we began have lot’s of companions on the road. Sometimes it helps with more eyes to spot animals, but sometimes the groups of other cars just create a less than ideal environment for optimal viewing.

We did have a successful drive, seeing rhinos (both white and black), giraffes (even two young males necking), Thompson’s gazelles, impalas, a hartebeast, a big buffalo blocking the road, and a secretary bird. At one point, we came across several other vehicles surrounding someone’s dinner (a kill), with that someone nowhere in sight. Jackson thought it belonged to a cheetah, but the poor hungry cat was waiting for vehicles to leave before returning to his/her meal. Not ever wanting to get in the way of nature, we proceeded on the drive.

After a couple hours, we decided it was time to get back to the lodge. Our stomachs were rumbling and a little time to rest before heading back to the airport was appealing. We were so happy to see lights shining from the lodge as we drove up. Yay… hot coffee and a working funicular. We had few more wildlife sightings before the end of our stay at Emakoko. We found rock hyraxes on the funicular track and the path to the room, then baboons and vervet monkeys on our balcony roused Jill from a catnap, who then woke Seb to see the commotion.

The trip to the airport was easy on a Sunday morning, mostly highway, but then through some local streets with shanties and shops constructed of corrugated metal. Jackson helped us check-in, then a young man with Safarilink took us through emigration and security, delivering us to a small waiting area, with instructions that he would be back to get us when it was time to board. The waiting area got quite busy and we, unfortunately witnessed our first, and hopefully only, example of the ugly American. Three couples, clearly traveling together, were in the waiting room with us. Each time someone from an air service came to collect passengers, they accosted the person about when they would be able to board. When Safarilink came to get us, this group stood in the doorway blocking our way as the air service rep was beckoning us to follow. There was such a sense of entitlement and “me first.”

This first flight of the day, on which we were two of four passengers, landed in Kilimanjaro, Tanzania, which required the whole immigration process to enter the country. We were expecting to handle this ourselves, but found a “Bobbin X2” waiting for us plane-side as we disembarked. It was a lucky break, since he told us how to fill in the immigration form, then led us to the line for on-line visas, which we both had, specifically for seniors, children and special needs (do we look old? Well, maybe since make-up did not make the cut for this trip.) Somehow with all of our diligence in getting details in order before the trip, Sarah’s visa had an incorrect date (note to Seb: work on your proof-reading skills). While Jill and airport helper waited in Tanzania, Sarah bounced amongst a few more lines to get a new visa. All in all it was pretty quick, just a $100 mistake for a new visa. Our airport helper ushered us out of the international airport and through the national airport (including numerous security screenings) to check in for our flight to the Lake Manyara airstrip. Since we were the only ones on the flight, we boarded as soon as we were all reassembled from the last security check, and took off 20 minutes early for the short 30 minute flight.

On arrival, we met Anaeli, our guide driver for at least the first two legs in Tanzania. If first impressions are anything, we knew we’d be in for a great five days. The drive to Entamanu Ngorongoro Lodge was two hours. The first hour we spent getting to know Anaeli and passing through various sized towns and villages. Nearing arrival to the Ngorongoro Crater National Park, Anaeli asked Jill to roll up her window a bit on account of the baboon activity at the park entrance. Sure enough, while Anaeli paid our entrance fees, bands of baboons entertained us through the car window.

The remaining hour was on rocky dirt roads, passing Maasai villages, brightly adorned folks returning to their villages on foot, Maasai farmers returning their livestock to safe quarters and glimpses of the crater. At one point we stopped at an overlook for our first official view. From there we continued to climb and Anaeli pointed out the flat-topped acacia trees at a distance as the location of our lodge. We knew we were finally close when we entered the acacia forest. Of course, arrival was marked by 8-10 staff standing in front waving, then helping us with bags.

Standard camp arrival took place, covering safety and any other lodge-specific topics. After a quick orientation to our bungalow, we headed back to the living room/lounge for a glass of wine, where we chatted with Peter, an Africa travel specialist from London. After dinner, we retreated back to our bungalow and both promptly crashed, getting woefully behind in blogging.

[finchbeak]

Madagascar - Day 12 - Anjajavy to Mantadia/Andasibe

I left Anjajavy this morning with a bit of remorse. I feel like I could have done more. I didn't snorkel. I didn't explore the various coves. But it was also time to move on. The rainforest awaits...

The flight from Anjajavy to Tana was....not good. Y'all know I'm not a nervous flyer. Turbulence does not bother me. I've been through 3 or 4 aborted landings. No biggie. Planes are my happy place. But man, do things change when alarms start going off in the cockpit. I was blessed during my other small plane flights. Smooth. No issues. This one was bumpy from the start. I tried to distract myself by reading, but when the older Frenchman sitting next to me starts cursing in French under his breath it's hard to think of anything else but being 10,000 feet in the air.

Obviously things went just fine. But I've never been so happy to see an air control tower in the distance. My mantra: five minutes til Tana, five minutes til Tana....

Back on the ground in Tana I am met by Fan and Dadi. We put my shit in the car and start the 4 hour drive to Vakona Lodge.

I really enjoyed the...

Stop. The lodge just lost power. Remind me to never leave without my torch....

I really enjoyed the ride out here. I got to see a different part of the country that I had just flown over previously. Passing through small towns, watching boys 'patch' the numerous potholes in the road and put their hands out for a few ariary, all the women working the ride paddies, and countless villages that don't have electricity, yet giant electric towers soar overhead.

We end up stopping for a quick bite to eat at Moramanga. The largest city between Andasibe and Tana. Contrary to the Bradt guide, Moramanga does not mean "cheap mangoes". Mora does indeed mean "cheap" but manga, while it can mean mango, in this instance (and in all other instances I've seen) it means "blue." And, once upon a time, Madagascar had a caste system. And "blue people" were the lowest in the system. They were the slaves. Moramanga wasn't a place to buy cheap mangoes, it was a place to buy cheap slaves. And it makes sense given its location - smack dab in the middle of a major thoroughfare to the capital and one of the largest ports in the country.

Anyway. We stop for a bite to eat. I get fried shrimp (pro tip: fried food will almost never be an issue for your stomach. That dip in the hot oil kills all bad things). About 15 minutes after we arrive I notice a familiar face - an older couple who was at Anjajavy has stopped at the same restaurant. But, being American, they didn't have any ariary. They just assumed everywhere would take dollars. Bank of Kirs saved them and I took some dollars for some of my ariary.

About an hour later we arrive at Vakona Lodge. It's dreary right now. Cold. Rainy. I'm not sure I'm equipped for this. The staff all laugh at my Malagasy. Sad Kirs.

I'm told I need to pick my dinner now. The menu is ... Very Western. They have an entirety different menu of Malagasy food, but apparently that isn't part of my full board. Fan promises to talk to them tomorrow. I don't want spaghetti for dinner. But for tonight I choose a starter and entree. I get a side eye when I say I don't eat dessert.  I don't! Sorry! 

Luckily I have the cabin closest to the lodge. No long walk in the dark, wet, cold. But I get there and dear lord it's freezing. I put my things down, close the window above the heater, and head back to the lodge in search of WiFi, warmth, and wine.

I find all three. I'm allowed to reserve a table by the giant fireplace. It's one of those multi sided things that you usually see in ski lodges. I'm happy to see it here. I'm just gonna camp out and drink red wine to stay warm.

I think I'm the only American here. We have some Aussies, Frenchies, Brits, and my first encounter with Chinese tourists in Madagascar. Man, the Malagasy do NOT like the Chinese tourists. And they have a love hate relationship with China's money helping with their infrastructure. They want the new roads, but every Malagasy I talk to says, essentially, "But at what cost? Our rosewood? Our ebony? What other resources do they want?" Is this just another colonization?

So I'm sitting here in the lodge. Thankful for fireplaces. I don't think I felt this cold in Moscow.

Tomorrow I meet my guide. And we head to Mantadia. Where there are leaches. And, hopefully, diademed Sifaka and indri. And all the birds and geckos and chameleons and other beautiful creatures. I'm not done with you yet, Madagascar.

[cheetahcamp]

[boutiquetravelexperts-blog]

Anjajavy preserves an endemic biodiversity and is an ideal place to observe lemurs in their natural habitat as they roam freely. Discover our endemic fauna and flora through a walk among the impressive tsingys and giant baobabs accompanied by brown lemurs and sifakas. https://buff.ly/3qUbvMf #lemur #sifaka #madagascar #anjajavy #majunga #wildlife #africa #preservation https://www.instagram.com/p/ClYai7lOlpo/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

[thatearth]

Anjajavy village - barber tends a customer in the shade of a sacred baobab

[seasonofplentyblog]

Bird of the Day: Madagascar Magpie-Robin

Madagascar magpie-robins (Copsychus albospecularis) live in forests and have different coloration depending on their sex, both striking in their own right.

Read the full post at https://seasonofplenty.com/bird-of-the-day-madagascar-magpie-robin/.

[bonbonbien]

Anjajavy lHôtel, Madagascar

[grokwrites]

Anjajavy lHôtel, Madagascar