#and then the rest of it is incredibly shoddy DIY
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caterjunes · 2 months ago
Text
i was taking off a lightswitch cover plate to paint and it was REAL hard to get one of the screws out. and then it came out at just a totally crazy angle, like 20° off of normal. so i was like. ok i will investigate what's making this happen. and. it looks like Prev Owners had basically attached the box to the stud (normal), wired & screwed the two switches to the box (normal), drywalled around it (normal, and then?? gone wild with joint compound or plaster??
and plastered the box INTO the drywall (NOT normal) leaving the switches basically cemented in place on the edges (i.e. not adjustable to fit the lightswitch cover plate, which is why it was so hard to get off). and worse yet leaving the electrical box with numerous large balls of dried plaster glops rattling around inside it or wedged against the switches!!
so i unscrewed & chipped out the switches & fished all the plaster balls out, and i scraped off the edges where they should be able to adjust slightly so there's not a perfectly-fitting depression in the plaster that they lock into. and then spent like 5 minutes wiggling them back & forth minutely until they fit the lightswitch cover properly 👍
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metzgerterryus · 7 years ago
Text
{DIY} Turning a Cupboard Into a Pantry
Tumblr media
It's been a while since I properly updated the blog on some of our DIY and renovations - and that's because we've been working away from our home, in another home. Yep, we're doing bits and bobs for someone else's renovation; Grant's parents renovation. Actually, I'm not sure I can call it a renovation just yet, but as I mentioned a while back, we'll be tackling their kitchen later this year - and in order to do so, we needed to sort a few smaller areas of their home first. With the first job being the old boiler room.
Last year, we started prepping for this and organised for their boiler to be replaced and moved upstairs, which became an essential after their water tank collapsed; and we also organised their dodgy sliding door to be replaced at the same time. With those two expensive bits out the way, we took a bit of a break and have since been planning the rest of the work that needs doing. Now it's getting warmer again, we're back on the project, DIYing and turning a cupboard (the old boiler cupboard!) into a pantry.
Tumblr media
This is the cupboard I'm talking about. It sits right behind a wall in the kitchen and is incredibly narrow at just 80cm wide and around 2m long. From the outside it's an 'extension' to the kitchen; although actually, the kitchen is the extension to it. We think it may have perhaps been an old coal storage room, or even an outside loo. We're not sure, but it's separate to the kitchen, has a lower independent roof and is shorter is length - it's not something that could have easily been knocked through into the kitchen and since budgets are slim, we're doing a more 'mend and make do' project rather than re-design and re-build. It's location in the kitchen makes it the perfect room to become a pantry!
Tumblr media Tumblr media
{The Plan} 
So Grants parents didn't really a plan or design they wanted from the room, just 'something with character' was their input. I really wanted the room to feel more spacious, be practical, offer a ton of storage space but at the same time appear organised, look pretty and hopefully convince Grants parents to de-clutter a little (they have a lot of stuff!). My plan was to include painted panelling, a patterned floor and rustic shelves. Three simple materials that would hopefully add bags of style and character to this room.
{Repairing Brickwork}
The room had been covered in some kind of old manky boarding, which was barely attached with just a helping of nails. The ceiling had begun to fall down, the floor was just muck, it was dark, gloomy and did not feel like a 'room' at all. We set about ripping everything out to see exactly what we were dealing with.
Tumblr media Tumblr media Tumblr media Tumblr media
Turns out there were missing bricks (quite a few of them!), some seriously shoddy mortar work, roof beams on the wonk and a floor that looked almost burnt by the boiler that had once been on it. 
Tumblr media
We started by filling in the brickwork with new bricks (luckily there was plenty hanging about in their garden) and we also heightened the brickwork on the end wall so that it covered across the multiple vents at the top. Why that wall was only half bricked up, I don't know - but those vents were creating a major breeze and were only there for the purpose of the boiler, which had now gone. We'll probably need to remove them eventually, but we can do that at a later date from the outside. Here's a before and after:
Tumblr media Tumblr media
{Plasterboard & Plastering}
As I mentioned, a part of my design involved use some mid-height panelling, so to save on plasterboard, we only plastered the top part of the wall and the ceiling. Grant fitted the boards and plastered it himself - I've written in detail about he learnt to DIY plastering before, so you can check that post out here if you want - It wasn't the most straightforward job as you can see we had some pipes to box around and quite a few angles to cut thanks to the sloping roof, but he did a really good job with it!
Tumblr media Tumblr media Tumblr media Tumblr media
{Panelling}
To affix the panelling, we attached batons across the wall horizontally, which would be the fixing point for us to nail the panelling into. For the most part we were able to reuse the timber we had originally ripped out of this room; so only had to buy a few extra lengths. As well as horizontal batons, we also attached a few vertical ones too. These were strategically placed so that when it comes to fitting the shelf brackets, we can screw right into them without the faff of wall plugs.
Tumblr media Tumblr media
We made sure the batons were deep enough to recess the pipe into, so that it would be hidden underneath the panelling. The only exception is the kitchen wall, where the pipe just stuck out far too much. With a bit of paint though, we thought it would look fine and blend in unnoticed. We made sure to take measurements of where the gas pipe is located so that there wont be any drilling accidents in the future.
Tumblr media
On the opposite side where the pipes from the old boiler were, we created a corner boxing. Annoyingly the pipes stuck out the wall quite a bit, so a triangular boxing seemed the best way to take up as little space as possible. It was much harder to do than a simple square boxing, but I think looks much better this way.
Tumblr media
We then nailed the panelling into the batons, in the same way I had done previously in this post. This is actually the exact same panelling I used in our conservatory seating, just a taller version (1.8m). It's from B&Q (found here) and cost £12 per pack of 10. We needed 5 for this space, but I always recommend buying one pack extra because you do get a few imperfect planks per pack.
Tumblr media Tumblr media Tumblr media
The nails were sunken into the panelling, poly-filled over, sanded and then I painted it in Valspar Premium v700 blend wood paint, colour-matched to Lamp Room Grey, which will also be the colour of the kitchen eventually. I really like Valspar paint, especially their wood paints (I actually prefer these to any other brand I've tried!) and it's perfect for a kitchen, because it's easy to wash and scrub down, which is pretty vital when food is involved - and it doesn't stain too! We added a top trim to finish it off, and left this raw. Oh and the walls are just plain trade paint white.
Tumblr media Tumblr media Tumblr media Tumblr media
{Flooring}
So, onto the flooring! I mentioned patterned tiles were going to be one of the main features in this room and you might have seen a glimpse of them already - they are some absolutely beautiful and simple Laura Ashley tiles. They're patterned, but not an in-your-face kind of pattern or a make-your-eyes-go-crazy kinda pattern. Just simple and pleasing on the eye. Being Laura Ashley though, they did come at a bit of a price-tag, but for such a small room I thought it was worth it (and not too drastic!).
Tumblr media
DIY tiling is something I've now done many many times, and I still haven't written a full how-to post yet, can you believe? It's on the agenda though! I'm not going to do one here or this post will be about 100,000 words long. BUT I'll show you a little bit of how it's done.
Tumblr media
So the guys at Vitrex did very kindly gift me a bunch of tiling tools for this project - some of which were new replacements for Vitrex tools we already owned and some were upgrades. Vitrex basically make everything you need when it comes to tiling; Ffom cutters, to sponges, to spacers, grout smoothers, the whole shebang. Because we're using ceramic tiles and this room is pretty square, a manual cutter is all we needed to cut the tiles (if you have particularly complex cuts or are using natural stone, you'll need a wet tile cutter!). I did a dry-fit first, which means cutting everything before you affix it down. I have to say, having a new decent manual tile cutter made this job SO much easier - and I can definitely recommend this one.
Tumblr media Tumblr media
I spend the adhesive across the floor, setting the tiles on-top, making sure they're level (if you've used self-levelling first as we've done this should be fairly easily, otherwise you can use some levelling spacers to help) and you want to make sure the tile has full contact with the adhesive as well.
Tumblr media Tumblr media
Once it had dried overnight I went on with the grout. We decided go for a light grey coloured grout to almost match the tiles - the one we actually used was Mapei in 'Ash Grey' which I picked after demanding to see every packet of grout in Screwfix so I could compare greys, ha! Luckily I'm a regular there, so my excessive DIY spending probably kept them sweet ;) I'm really glad with my pick though, I think it's the perfect colour!
Tumblr media Tumblr media Tumblr media
{Rustic Shelving}
So in order to save money, we wanted to use reclaimed wood to make the shelves. Pine furniture board is seriously expensive and MDF is even more so. We live near(ish) to a farm that sells 2m pallet planks for 70p, so I managed to pick up 15 for under £11 and that was all I needed to shelf-up the whole room. Can you get more affordable than that?!
However, of course the downside of saving money on reclaimed wood is that you do in fact need to spend A LOT of time sanding it back (muddy was not the look I was going for) and de-nailing it. It took me about 3 hours in total to sand all 15 planks to 'rustic perfection'. I used my new random orbital sander, starting off with a coarse 50 grit and then finishing with a 120 grit. In the end, all the planks looked really good! Some are a little more rough and ready than others, but they all have their own invidividual character to them - and Grants parents did say they wanted character right?! ;)
Tumblr media
As for the shelf brackets, Grant DIYed those himself from some simple planed timber, that cost £1.60 a length. We used 3 of those, so bagged 12 DIY-made brackets for just a little over £4! To buy these new would have cost us £24 at the cheapest place I could find. You can see why we DIY stuff when you look at those kind of savings!! It also allowed us to make them to our own bespoke size too, which was essential for this narrow room. I'm going to do a DIY bracket tutorial separately I think, or this will be one very long post. But here's a little sneaky peak, so you can get the gist of how they're made.
Tumblr media
When it came to putting everything together - it was pretty simple. Thanks to the fact we'd carefully measured and planned the location of the brackets way back when we did the batons, we could simply screw everything straight through the panelling and into those. We'd left little markers on the panelling too - so we knew where everything was. We planned for 4 shelves, each with 3 brackets. We've kept the shelves quite slim (around 16cm deep) so that it's still easy to manoeuvre in this already narrow room.
Tumblr media Tumblr media
At the end of the cupboard, we'd planned deeper shelves to be supported with planed timber running around the wall. It means these shelves will be much stronger. Again, we'd already attached batons in the right locations so we could also screw these straight into place too.
Tumblr media Tumblr media
{Finishing Touches}
This room originally had a wall light (it was just a lightbulb with a makeshift fitting) but because it's so narrow, I just didn't feel it was working. All the best designs I looked at stuck out far too much and I didn't think it would really light the space sufficiently. We couldn't change the wiring, so instead I decided to buy a regular ceiling light with a long length cable and attach it up to the ceiling with a hook. It actually works really well and I think just adds to the quirkiness of this room! The light is from eBay (found here) it's quite similar to ours in the kitchen at home, but with a brushed metal shade and it's the perfect size for this room!
Tumblr media Tumblr media
Looking pretty different right?! We finally added a little ledge to that corner boxing, attached some skirting and VOILA, room done.
Tumblr media Tumblr media
{A Final Look}
OK, so I feel like this is becoming a very long post. Thankfully, we're at the end! After six weeks off on/off work, it's DONE. Well, we actually have a door (and door trim) to potentially attach at some point. And there's one small piece of wood missing along that little ledge. But hey, I'm calling it done. Those things can wait, right?! It's an incredibly difficult room to photograph, so I haven't been able to use my DSLR camera because the lens is too zoomed in (yep, I'm not pro enough to have multiple lenses!) so apologies for the iPhone pics, but hopefully you get the idea. It's obviously not our house, so I haven't 'styled' the shelves, nor have I properly added food - that's something they'll have to figure out over time (pretty labelled jars would totally be my go-to!) but I think it looks blooming' amazing and so freaking different to the 'before'!
Tumblr media Tumblr media Tumblr media Tumblr media Tumblr media Tumblr media Tumblr media Tumblr media
I think it's definitely got character - in fact, tons of it! I think the floor and wall panelling combo works SO well and I'm actually incredibly jealous this isn't in my house right now. So that's how we turned an old ugly cupboard into a Pantry. I love it and I think Grants parents are pretty pleased too. It's such a better use of space and I'm certain will fit everything they need and more in there. So, what do you think? Fancy turning one of your cupboards into a pantry?
Total Costs
(rounded to the nearest pound)
New Tools Purchased:
None
Materials Used:
Panelling (B&Q) £70
Tiles (Laura Ashley, Homebase) £60
Screws £5
Plasterboard £30
Mortar £10
Plaster £5
Timber for Batons £10
Nails £5 
Self-Levelling £30 
Tile Adhesive £13
Grout (Ash Grey, Screwfix) £8
Timber for all Brackets/Shelf Support £13
Skirting £20
Pallet Planks £11
Light Fitting (eBay) £26
Total: £316 with materials to spare
*Both the Valspar paint and Vitrex Tiling tools were sent to me for review and feature within this makeover. I only ever recommend products I would genuinely buy and all words and opinions in this post are my own. Thank you for supporting the brands who support this blog!
from Home Restoration News http://www.kezzabeth.co.uk/2018/05/turning-cupboard-into-pantry-diy.html
0 notes
chrisobandous · 7 years ago
Text
{DIY} Turning a Cupboard Into a Pantry
Tumblr media
It's been a while since I properly updated the blog on some of our DIY and renovations - and that's because we've been working away from our home, in another home. Yep, we're doing bits and bobs for someone else's renovation; Grant's parents renovation. Actually, I'm not sure I can call it a renovation just yet, but as I mentioned a while back, we'll be tackling their kitchen later this year - and in order to do so, we needed to sort a few smaller areas of their home first. With the first job being the old boiler room.
Last year, we started prepping for this and organised for their boiler to be replaced and moved upstairs, which became an essential after their water tank collapsed; and we also organised their dodgy sliding door to be replaced at the same time. With those two expensive bits out the way, we took a bit of a break and have since been planning the rest of the work that needs doing. Now it's getting warmer again, we're back on the project, DIYing and turning a cupboard (the old boiler cupboard!) into a pantry.
Tumblr media
This is the cupboard I'm talking about. It sits right behind a wall in the kitchen and is incredibly narrow at just 80cm wide and around 2m long. From the outside it's an 'extension' to the kitchen; although actually, the kitchen is the extension to it. We think it may have perhaps been an old coal storage room, or even an outside loo. We're not sure, but it's separate to the kitchen, has a lower independent roof and is shorter is length - it's not something that could have easily been knocked through into the kitchen and since budgets are slim, we're doing a more 'mend and make do' project rather than re-design and re-build. It's location in the kitchen makes it the perfect room to become a pantry!
Tumblr media Tumblr media
{The Plan} 
So Grants parents didn't really a plan or design they wanted from the room, just 'something with character' was their input. I really wanted the room to feel more spacious, be practical, offer a ton of storage space but at the same time appear organised, look pretty and hopefully convince Grants parents to de-clutter a little (they have a lot of stuff!). My plan was to include painted panelling, a patterned floor and rustic shelves. Three simple materials that would hopefully add bags of style and character to this room.
{Repairing Brickwork}
The room had been covered in some kind of old manky boarding, which was barely attached with just a helping of nails. The ceiling had begun to fall down, the floor was just muck, it was dark, gloomy and did not feel like a 'room' at all. We set about ripping everything out to see exactly what we were dealing with.
Tumblr media Tumblr media Tumblr media
Turns out there were missing bricks (quite a few of them!), some seriously shoddy mortar work, roof beams on the wonk and a floor that looked almost burnt by the boiler that had once been on it. 
Tumblr media
We started by filling in the brickwork with new bricks (luckily there was plenty hanging about in their garden) and we also heightened the brickwork on the end wall so that it covered across the multiple vents at the top. Why that wall was only half bricked up, I don't know - but those vents were creating a major breeze and were only there for the purpose of the boiler, which had now gone. We'll probably need to remove them eventually, but we can do that at a later date from the outside. Here's a before and after:
Tumblr media Tumblr media
{Plasterboard & Plastering}
As I mentioned, a part of my design involved use some mid-height panelling, so to save on plasterboard, we only plastered the top part of the wall and the ceiling. Grant fitted the boards and plastered it himself - I've written in detail about he learnt to DIY plastering before, so you can check that post out here if you want - It wasn't the most straightforward job as you can see we had some pipes to box around and quite a few angles to cut thanks to the sloping roof, but he did a really good job with it!
Tumblr media Tumblr media Tumblr media Tumblr media
{Panelling}
To affix the panelling, we attached batons across the wall horizontally, which would be the fixing point for us to nail the panelling into. For the most part we were able to reuse the timber we had originally ripped out of this room; so only had to buy a few extra lengths. As well as horizontal batons, we also attached a few vertical ones too. These were strategically placed so that when it comes to fitting the shelf brackets, we can screw right into them without the faff of wall plugs.
Tumblr media Tumblr media
We made sure the batons were deep enough to recess the pipe into, so that it would be hidden underneath the panelling. The only exception is the kitchen wall, where the pipe just stuck out far too much. With a bit of paint though, we thought it would look fine and blend in unnoticed. We made sure to take measurements of where the gas pipe is located so that there wont be any drilling accidents in the future.
Tumblr media
On the opposite side where the pipes from the old boiler were, we created a corner boxing. Annoyingly the pipes stuck out the wall quite a bit, so a triangular boxing seemed the best way to take up as little space as possible. It was much harder to do than a simple square boxing, but I think looks much better this way.
Tumblr media
We then nailed the panelling into the batons, in the same way I had done previously in this post. This is actually the exact same panelling I used in our conservatory seating, just a taller version (1.8m). It's from B&Q (found here) and cost £12 per pack of 10. We needed 5 for this space, but I always recommend buying one pack extra because you do get a few imperfect planks per pack.
Tumblr media Tumblr media Tumblr media
The nails were sunken into the panelling, poly-filled over, sanded and then I painted it in Valspar Premium v700 blend wood paint, colour-matched to Lamp Room Grey, which will also be the colour of the kitchen eventually. I really like Valspar paint, especially their wood paints (I actually prefer these to any other brand I've tried!) and it's perfect for a kitchen, because it's easy to wash and scrub down, which is pretty vital when food is involved - and it doesn't stain too! We added a top trim to finish it off, and left this raw. Oh and the walls are just plain trade paint white.
Tumblr media Tumblr media Tumblr media Tumblr media
{Flooring}
So, onto the flooring! I mentioned patterned tiles were going to be one of the main features in this room and you might have seen a glimpse of them already - they are some absolutely beautiful and simple Laura Ashley tiles. They're patterned, but not an in-your-face kind of pattern or a make-your-eyes-go-crazy kinda pattern. Just simple and pleasing on the eye. Being Laura Ashley though, they did come at a bit of a price-tag, but for such a small room I thought it was worth it (and not too drastic!).
Tumblr media
DIY tiling is something I've now done many many times, and I still haven't written a full how-to post yet, can you believe? It's on the agenda though! I'm not going to do one here or this post will be about 100,000 words long. BUT I'll show you a little bit of how it's done.
Tumblr media
So the guys at Vitrex did very kindly gift me a bunch of tiling tools for this project - some of which were new replacements for Vitrex tools we already owned and some were upgrades. Vitrex basically make everything you need when it comes to tiling; Ffom cutters, to sponges, to spacers, grout smoothers, the whole shebang. Because we're using ceramic tiles and this room is pretty square, a manual cutter is all we needed to cut the tiles (if you have particularly complex cuts or are using natural stone, you'll need a wet tile cutter!). I did a dry-fit first, which means cutting everything before you affix it down. I have to say, having a new decent manual tile cutter made this job SO much easier - and I can definitely recommend this one.
Tumblr media Tumblr media
I spend the adhesive across the floor, setting the tiles on-top, making sure they're level (if you've used self-levelling first as we've done this should be fairly easily, otherwise you can use some levelling spacers to help) and you want to make sure the tile has full contact with the adhesive as well.
Tumblr media Tumblr media
Once it had dried overnight I went on with the grout. We decided go for a light grey coloured grout to almost match the tiles - the one we actually used was Mapei in 'Ash Grey' which I picked after demanding to see every packet of grout in Screwfix so I could compare greys, ha! Luckily I'm a regular there, so my excessive DIY spending probably kept them sweet ;) I'm really glad with my pick though, I think it's the perfect colour!
Tumblr media Tumblr media Tumblr media
{Rustic Shelving}
So in order to save money, we wanted to use reclaimed wood to make the shelves. Pine furniture board is seriously expensive and MDF is even more so. We live near(ish) to a farm that sells 2m pallet planks for 70p, so I managed to pick up 15 for under £11 and that was all I needed to shelf-up the whole room. Can you get more affordable than that?!
However, of course the downside of saving money on reclaimed wood is that you do in fact need to spend A LOT of time sanding it back (muddy was not the look I was going for) and de-nailing it. It took me about 3 hours in total to sand all 15 planks to 'rustic perfection'. I used my new random orbital sander, starting off with a coarse 50 grit and then finishing with a 120 grit. In the end, all the planks looked really good! Some are a little more rough and ready than others, but they all have their own invidividual character to them - and Grants parents did say they wanted character right?! ;)
Tumblr media
As for the shelf brackets, Grant DIYed those himself from some simple planed timber, that cost £1.60 a length. We used 3 of those, so bagged 12 DIY-made brackets for just a little over £4! To buy these new would have cost us £24 at the cheapest place I could find. You can see why we DIY stuff when you look at those kind of savings!! It also allowed us to make them to our own bespoke size too, which was essential for this narrow room. I'm going to do a DIY bracket tutorial separately I think, or this will be one very long post. But here's a little sneaky peak, so you can get the gist of how they're made.
Tumblr media
When it came to putting everything together - it was pretty simple. Thanks to the fact we'd carefully measured and planned the location of the brackets way back when we did the batons, we could simply screw everything straight through the panelling and into those. We'd left little markers on the panelling too - so we knew where everything was. We planned for 4 shelves, each with 3 brackets. We've kept the shelves quite slim (around 16cm deep) so that it's still easy to manoeuvre in this already narrow room.
Tumblr media Tumblr media
At the end of the cupboard, we'd planned deeper shelves to be supported with planed timber running around the wall. It means these shelves will be much stronger. Again, we'd already attached batons in the right locations so we could also screw these straight into place too.
Tumblr media Tumblr media
{Finishing Touches}
This room originally had a wall light (it was just a lightbulb with a makeshift fitting) but because it's so narrow, I just didn't feel it was working. All the best designs I looked at stuck out far too much and I didn't think it would really light the space sufficiently. We couldn't change the wiring, so instead I decided to buy a regular ceiling light with a long length cable and attach it up to the ceiling with a hook. It actually works really well and I think just adds to the quirkiness of this room!
Tumblr media Tumblr media
Looking pretty different right?! We finally added a little ledge to that corner boxing, attached some skirting and VOILA, room done.
Tumblr media Tumblr media
{A Final Look}
OK, so I feel like this is becoming a very long post. Thankfully, we're at the end! After six weeks off on/off work, it's DONE. Well, we actually have a door (and door trim) to potentially attach at some point. And there's one small piece of wood missing along that little ledge. But hey, I'm calling it done. Those things can wait, right?! It's an incredibly difficult room to photograph, so I haven't been able to use my DSLR camera because the lens is too zoomed in (yep, I'm not pro enough to have multiple lenses!) so apologies for the iPhone pics, but hopefully you get the idea. It's obviously not our house, so I haven't 'styled' the shelves, nor have I properly added food - that's something they'll have to figure out over time (pretty labelled jars would totally be my go-to!) but I think it looks blooming' amazing and so freaking different to the 'before'!
Tumblr media Tumblr media Tumblr media Tumblr media Tumblr media Tumblr media Tumblr media
I think it's definitely got character - in fact, tons of it! I think the floor and wall panelling combo works SO well and I'm actually incredibly jealous this isn't in my house right now. So that's how we turned an old ugly cupboard into a Pantry. I love it and I think Grants parents are pretty pleased too. It's such a better use of space and I'm certain will fit everything they need and more in there. So, what do you think? Fancy turning one of your cupboards into a pantry?
Total Costs
(rounded to the nearest pound)
New Tools Purchased:
None
Materials Used:
Panelling (B&Q) £70
Tiles (Laura Ashley, Homebase) £60
Screws £5
Plasterboard £30
Mortar £10
Plaster £5
Timber for Batons £10
Nails £5 
Self-Levelling £30 
Tile Adhesive £13
Grout (Ash Grey, Screwfix) £8
Timber for all Brackets/Shelf Support £13
Skirting £20
Pallet Planks £11
Light Fitting (eBay) £26
Total: £316 with materials to spare
*Both the Valspar paint and Vitrex Tiling tools were sent to me for review and feature within this makeover. I only ever recommend products I would genuinely buy and all words and opinions in this post are my own. Thank you for supporting the brands who support this blog!
from Home Renovation http://www.kezzabeth.co.uk/2018/05/turning-cupboard-into-pantry-diy.html
0 notes
besttrekkingpole-blog · 6 years ago
Text
Trekking Pole Buying Advice & Reviews
Trekking Pole Buying Advice
Trekking Pole Types: Telescoping, Folding, and Fixed
Shaft Materials
Locking Mechanisms
Trekking Pole Grip Construction
Weight
Stuffed Size
Sturdiness
Stun Absorbing Poles
Women's-Specific Poles
Shoddy Trekking Poles
Trekking Pole Types: Telescoping, Folding, and Fixed
Extending poles made of a few segments are the most widely recognized sort available and are known for their toughness and usability. In that capacity, they're famous with everybody from day climbers to explorers and even mountain dwellers. The distinctive shaft areas grow from each joint by a locking framework that can be opened for alteration and anchored while on the trail. These purposes of association additionally are their most prominent shortcomings, so a quality locking instrument is very suggested (we examine this in more detail beneath). In this class, we lean toward light poles with basic capabilities: secure locking systems, quality aluminum or carbon fiber development, and agreeable grasps.
Trekking (REI Flash poles)
Trekking in Patagonia with the 3-area extending REI Co-operation Flash poles
Dark Diamond spearheaded the ultralight collapsing classification with their Z-Pole line. Much like the poles that accompany a tent, you can isolate the pieces and pack them down into a minimal size (generally 10 inches shorter than a similar extending shaft). All the more as of late, Leki has made a solid push with their Micro Vario arrangement, which incorporates our top of the line collapsing post: the Micro Vario Carbon DSS. Most collapsing poles have thin shafts, can hold up under less load than their extending partners, and are either not movable or restricted in their changes the long way. Supported by quick explorers, trail sprinters, and voyagers, these poles will cause a minimal measure of arm weariness over long miles
The third class of trekking post is the straight-shaft, settled length plan. These are generally extraordinary on the grounds that it very well may be hard to store or transport such a long thing (particularly when secured to your pack or in a bag), and they can't be balanced for up and downhill travel. All things considered, no settled length poles made our rundown. In case you're in the market, be that as it may, we suggest looking at the Gossamer Gear LT3. They are purportedly the lightest trekking poles made at 5.6 ounces for a couple (120 cm length).
Leki Micro Vario (icy mass climbing)
Intersection an icy mass with the Leki Micro Vario trekking poles
Shaft Materials
By and large, trekking poles are made either from carbon fiber, aluminum, or a mix of the two (a three-area shaft may have two carbon upper pieces and an aluminum lower, for instance). Top of the line trekking poles is frequently produced using carbon, which is lighter and stiffer yet in addition progressively costly and weak (and when carbon fiber breaks, it breaks; aluminum may simply imprint or twist and still be usable). Carbon's inclination to snap under hard pressure can be to some degree counterbalanced by a thicker breadth development, at the punishment of weight.
Trekking poles (Mt. Pastry specialist)
For shifted landscape, a tough shaft like the Black Diamond Alpine is an extraordinary decision
Cost and generally sturdiness are the primary reasons climbers settle on aluminum poles, in spite of the fact that the holes aren't that wide any longer. What's more, there is a developing pattern of half breed developments, including a variety of our best pick: the Black Diamond Alpine Ergo. Utilizing a blend of aluminum and carbon, the Alpine Ergo is solid, sensibly lightweight, and a respectable cost. At last, the easygoing climber or somebody that is unpleasant on their apparatus will likely still be most joyful with an aluminum or crossbreed post. An all-carbon construct remains the best alternative for the apparatus lover and weight-centered explorer/hiker.
Locking Mechanisms
Outside of an ultralight collapsing trekking post, odds are you'll be looking at one with some kind of locking system. The great style utilized a bent bolt: to fix you turn each area shut to bolt the fragments into place. These poles are spooky by conflicting execution, with explorers either over-fixing to the point of seizing, or turning excessively free, bringing about interminable issues with falling. Obviously, the bend keep has left vogue. And keep in mind that there are a couple of models out there that work admirably, for example, Leki's Super Lock System—we regularly prescribe staying away from the turn bolt.
Trekking poles locking system
Our favored switch bolt (open) on the privilege with wind bolt on the left
Enter the switch bolt. Utilizing an outside cinch to either open to change or near bolt the post areas, it's a simple to utilize framework. Even better, the propensity for portions to slip when in the bolted position is essentially decreased, giving extra certainty to the client. There are as yet a couple of dangers of by chance opening the bolt while traveling through substantial brush or the need to sporadically fix the switch with a screwdriver (Leki's new SpeedLock 2 on the Micro Vario Ti Cor-Tec doesn't require an instrument to change), yet these are minor nitpicks. The switch bolt is the new standard.
Trekking shaft locking components
Leki's SpeedLock 2 (left) and Black Diamond's FlickLock (right)
Trekking Pole Grip Construction
Materials: Cork, Foam, and Rubber
Trekking shaft grasps come in three primary sorts: stopper, froth, and elastic, with the plug being our undisputed top choice. A quality plug handle has an outstandingly agreeable feel in the hand and wicks sweat extremely well. It likewise will adjust pleasantly to your hand after some time, making it incredible for long-separate treks and multi-season use. In the event that stopper isn't your thing, the following best wager is froth. EVA froth is delicate, gives a proportion of stun assimilation, and completes a fair occupation at wicking dampness in the mid-year months (in spite of the fact that it will regularly hold more dampness than stopper). Elastic is the third choice and typically found on spending plan trekking poles. We've observed these grasps to be best for chilly climate exercises since they shed rain and snow, however, they do not have the perspiration ingestion and premium feel of froth and stopper.
Trekking poles (dropping)
Quality froth and stopper handles are extraordinary for long-separate exploring
Ergonomic Handle versus Standard Handle
Looking past the grasp materials, another thought is regardless of whether to get an ergonomic handle. These kinds of holds have a slight forward point, normally around 15 degrees, which should mirror where your hands would normally rest. Of course, what feels "normal" to one individual may not to another, and this, at last, is extremely close to the home decision. That being stated, we've made the most of a considerable amount of ergonomic grasps (Leki is a champion around there, and we additionally like Black Diamond's Ergo models).
Trekking post grasps
Picking a standard (right) or ergonomic (right) hold is, for the most part, a matter of individual inclination
Break down Extensions
Numerous poles will have a second, littler grasp underneath the primary one. This is the thing that we allude to as a tear up expansion, or expanded hold. These transcendent froth grasps are extraordinary for finding a protected hold bring down on your poles while climbing steep slopes or sidehilling, enhancing equalization and use. For the individuals who frequently travel on steep or specialized territory, broadened grasps are an unquestionable requirement have highlighted. For a DIY elective, you can wrap pipe tape around your poles under the substantial grasps for an increasingly secure hold.
Trekking post (start crying augmentations)
Start crying expansions are important on soak climbs
Wrist Straps
The last piece in the hold development is the wrist lash. There is a noteworthy assorted variety of tie plans, extending from vigorously cushioned to basic nylon. What's more, a few explorers dump the ties inside and out in light of the fact that they'd preferably not be associated with their poles should they take a fall or utilize the framework inappropriately (the right method is entering from the base opening of the lash). In picking a tie, the greatest thought is seeing any potential aggravations. On the off chance that a crease is rubbing against the back of your hand on a short walk, that can transform into genuine scraping by mile 10. When all is said in done, the lashes on most quality trekking poles are truly agreeable. Indeed, even the basic webbing on the Leki Micro Vario Carbon DSS is extremely smooth.
Weight
The heaviness of the trekking poles is our second greatest thought (first is solace), and we wouldn't point the finger at you for putting it on your need list. A light shaft will weakness your arms less rapidly, which is a major advantage on long treks. On short treks, you may not see a 4-ounce distinction, but rather when you think about the occasions your arms swing forward over an all-inclusive excursion, it's anything but difficult to acknowledge how a little weight reserve funds can go far.
REI Traverse trekking shaft
REI's Traverse poles are somewhat substantial at 20 ounces and aren't the best decision for long treks
For moving light and quick, the lighter the better, with an admonition that toughness reduces once you get into the ultralight class (we witness it appropriate around 1 pound). On the outrageous end are poles like the Gossamer Gear LT4 (9 ounces for a couple) or Black Diamond Distance Carbon Z (9.3 to 10.4 ounces, contingent upon length). These are extraordinary for ultralight explorers and through climbers, however, the pole materials are unreasonably fragile for bushwhacking or 4-season use. Our inclination is to go lightweight without being always stressed over snapping the poles, which is the reason we rank the BD Alpine Carbon on our rundown.
Stuffed Size
Stuffed size or crumbled length isn't a represent the moment of truth particular for us, however, it is a thought for voyagers that need to accommodate their poles into a bag and explorers that lash their poles to their pack. Collapsing poles take the prize for the littlest stuffed size, which is as meager as 13 inches. Legitimately ensured, they're even little enough to store inside a daypack.
Collapsing trekking poles
Collapsing trekking poles pack down amazingly little
Not every person puts such a high incentive on a minimized size, which is somewhat why three-segment poles remain the most mainstream style on th
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aaronbhope84 · 7 years ago
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{DIY} Turning a Cupboard Into a Pantry
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It's been a while since I properly updated the blog on some of our DIY and renovations - and that's because we've been working away from our home, in another home. Yep, we're doing bits and bobs for someone else's renovation; Grant's parents renovation. Actually, I'm not sure I can call it a renovation just yet, but as I mentioned a while back, we'll be tackling their kitchen later this year - and in order to do so, we needed to sort a few smaller areas of their home first. With the first job being the old boiler room.
Last year, we started prepping for this and organised for their boiler to be replaced and moved upstairs, which became an essential after their water tank collapsed; and we also organised their dodgy sliding door to be replaced at the same time. With those two expensive bits out the way, we took a bit of a break and have since been planning the rest of the work that needs doing. Now it's getting warmer again, we're back on the project, DIYing and turning a cupboard (the old boiler cupboard!) into a pantry.
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This is the cupboard I'm talking about. It sits right behind a wall in the kitchen and is incredibly narrow at just 80cm wide and around 2m long. From the outside it's an 'extension' to the kitchen; although actually, the kitchen is the extension to it. We think it may have perhaps been an old coal storage room, or even an outside loo. We're not sure, but it's separate to the kitchen, has a lower independent roof and is shorter is length - it's not something that could have easily been knocked through into the kitchen and since budgets are slim, we're doing a more 'mend and make do' project rather than re-design and re-build. It's location in the kitchen makes it the perfect room to become a pantry!
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{The Plan} 
So Grants parents didn't really a plan or design they wanted from the room, just 'something with character' was their input. I really wanted the room to feel more spacious, be practical, offer a ton of storage space but at the same time appear organised, look pretty and hopefully convince Grants parents to de-clutter a little (they have a lot of stuff!). My plan was to include painted panelling, a patterned floor and rustic shelves. Three simple materials that would hopefully add bags of style and character to this room.
{Repairing Brickwork}
The room had been covered in some kind of old manky boarding, which was barely attached with just a helping of nails. The ceiling had begun to fall down, the floor was just muck, it was dark, gloomy and did not feel like a 'room' at all. We set about ripping everything out to see exactly what we were dealing with.
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Turns out there were missing bricks (quite a few of them!), some seriously shoddy mortar work, roof beams on the wonk and a floor that looked almost burnt by the boiler that had once been on it. 
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We started by filling in the brickwork with new bricks (luckily there was plenty hanging about in their garden) and we also heightened the brickwork on the end wall so that it covered across the multiple vents at the top. Why that wall was only half bricked up, I don't know - but those vents were creating a major breeze and were only there for the purpose of the boiler, which had now gone. We'll probably need to remove them eventually, but we can do that at a later date from the outside. Here's a before and after:
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{Plasterboard & Plastering}
As I mentioned, a part of my design involved use some mid-height panelling, so to save on plasterboard, we only plastered the top part of the wall and the ceiling. Grant fitted the boards and plastered it himself - I've written in detail about he learnt to DIY plastering before, so you can check that post out here if you want - It wasn't the most straightforward job as you can see we had some pipes to box around and quite a few angles to cut thanks to the sloping roof, but he did a really good job with it!
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{Panelling}
To affix the panelling, we attached batons across the wall horizontally, which would be the fixing point for us to nail the panelling into. For the most part we were able to reuse the timber we had originally ripped out of this room; so only had to buy a few extra lengths. As well as horizontal batons, we also attached a few vertical ones too. These were strategically placed so that when it comes to fitting the shelf brackets, we can screw right into them without the faff of wall plugs.
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We made sure the batons were deep enough to recess the pipe into, so that it would be hidden underneath the panelling. The only exception is the kitchen wall, where the pipe just stuck out far too much. With a bit of paint though, we thought it would look fine and blend in unnoticed. We made sure to take measurements of where the gas pipe is located so that there wont be any drilling accidents in the future.
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On the opposite side where the pipes from the old boiler were, we created a corner boxing. Annoyingly the pipes stuck out the wall quite a bit, so a triangular boxing seemed the best way to take up as little space as possible. It was much harder to do than a simple square boxing, but I think looks much better this way.
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We then nailed the panelling into the batons, in the same way I had done previously in this post. This is actually the exact same panelling I used in our conservatory seating, just a taller version (1.8m). It's from B&Q (found here) and cost £12 per pack of 10. We needed 5 for this space, but I always recommend buying one pack extra because you do get a few imperfect planks per pack.
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The nails were sunken into the panelling, poly-filled over, sanded and then I painted it in Valspar Premium v700 blend wood paint, colour-matched to Lamp Room Grey, which will also be the colour of the kitchen eventually. I really like Valspar paint, especially their wood paints (I actually prefer these to any other brand I've tried!) and it's perfect for a kitchen, because it's easy to wash and scrub down, which is pretty vital when food is involved - and it doesn't stain too! We added a top trim to finish it off, and left this raw. Oh and the walls are just plain trade paint white.
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{Flooring}
So, onto the flooring! I mentioned patterned tiles were going to be one of the main features in this room and you might have seen a glimpse of them already - they are some absolutely beautiful and simple Laura Ashley tiles. They're patterned, but not an in-your-face kind of pattern or a make-your-eyes-go-crazy kinda pattern. Just simple and pleasing on the eye. Being Laura Ashley though, they did come at a bit of a price-tag, but for such a small room I thought it was worth it (and not too drastic!).
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DIY tiling is something I've now done many many times, and I still haven't written a full how-to post yet, can you believe? It's on the agenda though! I'm not going to do one here or this post will be about 100,000 words long. BUT I'll show you a little bit of how it's done.
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So the guys at Vitrex did very kindly gift me a bunch of tiling tools for this project - some of which were new replacements for Vitrex tools we already owned and some were upgrades. Vitrex basically make everything you need when it comes to tiling; Ffom cutters, to sponges, to spacers, grout smoothers, the whole shebang. Because we're using ceramic tiles and this room is pretty square, a manual cutter is all we needed to cut the tiles (if you have particularly complex cuts or are using natural stone, you'll need a wet tile cutter!). I did a dry-fit first, which means cutting everything before you affix it down. I have to say, having a new decent manual tile cutter made this job SO much easier - and I can definitely recommend this one.
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I spend the adhesive across the floor, setting the tiles on-top, making sure they're level (if you've used self-levelling first as we've done this should be fairly easily, otherwise you can use some levelling spacers to help) and you want to make sure the tile has full contact with the adhesive as well.
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Once it had dried overnight I went on with the grout. We decided go for a light grey coloured grout to almost match the tiles - the one we actually used was Mapei in 'Ash Grey' which I picked after demanding to see every packet of grout in Screwfix so I could compare greys, ha! Luckily I'm a regular there, so my excessive DIY spending probably kept them sweet ;) I'm really glad with my pick though, I think it's the perfect colour!
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{Rustic Shelving}
So in order to save money, we wanted to use reclaimed wood to make the shelves. Pine furniture board is seriously expensive and MDF is even more so. We live near(ish) to a farm that sells 2m pallet planks for 70p, so I managed to pick up 15 for under £11 and that was all I needed to shelf-up the whole room. Can you get more affordable than that?!
However, of course the downside of saving money on reclaimed wood is that you do in fact need to spend A LOT of time sanding it back (muddy was not the look I was going for) and de-nailing it. It took me about 3 hours in total to sand all 15 planks to 'rustic perfection'. I used my new random orbital sander, starting off with a coarse 50 grit and then finishing with a 120 grit. In the end, all the planks looked really good! Some are a little more rough and ready than others, but they all have their own invidividual character to them - and Grants parents did say they wanted character right?! ;)
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As for the shelf brackets, Grant DIYed those himself from some simple planed timber, that cost £1.60 a length. We used 3 of those, so bagged 12 DIY-made brackets for just a little over £4! To buy these new would have cost us £24 at the cheapest place I could find. You can see why we DIY stuff when you look at those kind of savings!! It also allowed us to make them to our own bespoke size too, which was essential for this narrow room. I'm going to do a DIY bracket tutorial separately I think, or this will be one very long post. But here's a little sneaky peak, so you can get the gist of how they're made.
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When it came to putting everything together - it was pretty simple. Thanks to the fact we'd carefully measured and planned the location of the brackets way back when we did the batons, we could simply screw everything straight through the panelling and into those. We'd left little markers on the panelling too - so we knew where everything was. We planned for 4 shelves, each with 3 brackets. We've kept the shelves quite slim (around 16cm deep) so that it's still easy to manoeuvre in this already narrow room.
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At the end of the cupboard, we'd planned deeper shelves to be supported with planed timber running around the wall. It means these shelves will be much stronger. Again, we'd already attached batons in the right locations so we could also screw these straight into place too.
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{Finishing Touches}
This room originally had a wall light (it was just a lightbulb with a makeshift fitting) but because it's so narrow, I just didn't feel it was working. All the best designs I looked at stuck out far too much and I didn't think it would really light the space sufficiently. We couldn't change the wiring, so instead I decided to buy a regular ceiling light with a long length cable and attach it up to the ceiling with a hook. It actually works really well and I think just adds to the quirkiness of this room! The light is from eBay (found here) it's quite similar to ours in the kitchen at home, but with a brushed metal shade and it's the perfect size for this room!
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Looking pretty different right?! We finally added a little ledge to that corner boxing, attached some skirting and VOILA, room done.
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{A Final Look}
OK, so I feel like this is becoming a very long post. Thankfully, we're at the end! After six weeks off on/off work, it's DONE. Well, we actually have a door (and door trim) to potentially attach at some point. And there's one small piece of wood missing along that little ledge. But hey, I'm calling it done. Those things can wait, right?! It's an incredibly difficult room to photograph, so I haven't been able to use my DSLR camera because the lens is too zoomed in (yep, I'm not pro enough to have multiple lenses!) so apologies for the iPhone pics, but hopefully you get the idea. It's obviously not our house, so I haven't 'styled' the shelves, nor have I properly added food - that's something they'll have to figure out over time (pretty labelled jars would totally be my go-to!) but I think it looks blooming' amazing and so freaking different to the 'before'!
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I think it's definitely got character - in fact, tons of it! I think the floor and wall panelling combo works SO well and I'm actually incredibly jealous this isn't in my house right now. So that's how we turned an old ugly cupboard into a Pantry. I love it and I think Grants parents are pretty pleased too. It's such a better use of space and I'm certain will fit everything they need and more in there. So, what do you think? Fancy turning one of your cupboards into a pantry?
Total Costs
(rounded to the nearest pound)
New Tools Purchased:
None
Materials Used:
Panelling (B&Q) £70
Tiles (Laura Ashley, Homebase) £60
Screws £5
Plasterboard £30
Mortar £10
Plaster £5
Timber for Batons £10
Nails £5 
Self-Levelling £30 
Tile Adhesive £13
Grout (Ash Grey, Screwfix) £8
Timber for all Brackets/Shelf Support £13
Skirting £20
Pallet Planks £11
Light Fitting (eBay) £26
Total: £316 with materials to spare
*Both the Valspar paint and Vitrex Tiling tools were sent to me for review and feature within this makeover. I only ever recommend products I would genuinely buy and all words and opinions in this post are my own. Thank you for supporting the brands who support this blog!
from Home Restoration News http://www.kezzabeth.co.uk/2018/05/turning-cupboard-into-pantry-diy.html
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Prime 5 Ideas For House Decorators
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Choose A Theme
Wash the Floor
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Sanding the whole floor and clean unhealthy parts
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