#and she really pushes the boundaries of fashion with the way she incorporates technology and research into her stuff

[redravenblogs]

Designed by Iris van Herpen

Mona Patel at the 2024 Met Gala

[gyongyiphotoarts]

‘English as a second language’ at the Somerset house

I have started this post already and I haven’t saved the draft, oh well... sorry for the awful quality of the photos, I have been using my wunderschön Xiaomi phone to document, and it doesn’t perform well in low light! 

This exhibition is a joint showcase of Joyce Ng and Hannah Moon’s current work, specially shot in the Somerset house - both prominent artists in today’s fashion photography. I haven’t been really engaged with fashion photography so far, apart from my admiration for Viviane Sassen - but even in her work I do not look at the commissioner or the piece of clothing or accessories they are using, I am more aware of the model, the pose, the colours and the lighting than anything else, so I can say I am not looking at the typical fashion aspect of any fashion image. Nevertheless I did enjoy this exhibition a lot. The gallery space has been divided into 3 spaces, one room for each photographers new work, specially shot in Somerset House, and than the last room showcased their featured work in publications from the last 4 years. 

‘Employing an otherworldly and playful approach to their practice, Hanna Moon and Joyce Ng incorporate cultural signifiers, set design and fashion to present their unique take on Western aesthetics and fashion ideals. Bringing distinct Asian perspectives to their work, they challenge the concept of ‘otherness’ and reflect upon the power fashion photography holds in shaping our perceptions of beauty, style and taste.’

https://www.somersethouse.org.uk/whats-on/hanna-moon-joyce-ng-english-as-a-second-language

I have specially liked Joyce Ng’s work. She was casting her model’s from the pool of visitors from the gallery over a month time, most of them having lack of experience in the modeling scene. She was inspired by a 16th century Chinese novel, called Journey to the West ( corresponding to the title of the exhibition ), but I felt like the portraits, specially the tiny ones with captions, encapsulating her journey in / to London  - and possibly all of us, people migrated to a Western country, would reflect on their own journey. The photos are quite abstract, surreal, I like the way she plays with the photos, turning them upside down, or deliberately choosing snaps that are not so appealing to the models - pushing the boundaries of what is considered a typical ‘beauty’, fashion portrait.

The photos are either 

close up portraits, which were printed in large size, where some details are getting blurry and hazy due to the magnification and the stretch of the print

either as more complex scene, where the model acted as a prop for the set scene - they were presented as tiny prints, where I had to get real close to the photo to be able to see what’s going on in the picture.

The layout of the exhibition was really engaging as well - several walls have been built in the middle of the space - the bigger prints on the right side, mounted on the bright red wooden frames, highlighting their existence as an object, almost pulling out the portraits from the shallow field of the white gallery wall; and the tiny prints were laid on the opposite side, where the wall was literally carved out and painted red, only to place the prints seemingly randomly in corners. The captions were generally about 

the model’s name

the place they have shot the image

the exact date of the shoot

the type of print and on what it has been mounted on - all of them were C-type prints mounted on aluminium

on the small prints - the brand of the attires and accessories

I liked these images as precisely they were not the typical fashion photographs one would expect to see on a fashion exhibition - the element of the surreal, the odd poses and unusual crops got my immediate attention and I was genuinely amused by these photographs and by the layout, haven’t been excited by someone’s work for a while. 

In the third room the a collective of work from both artist can be found, two vitrines in the middle of the small space, showcasing their magazine and photobook publications; and selected prints plainly pinned on the walls, which was surprising to see, after seeing the careful presentations in the previous 2 rooms. Of course ,the new and old works they don’t necessarily correspond to each other, and I guess the new work’s printing has been funded by the commissioner ( The Somerset House). Anyway, I was able to spot Joyce’s work straight away :D 

Language barrier is a big thing for me too - I have difficulty in expressing myself specially when I’m under stress or feeling nervous. I can’t even think straight sometimes, nor I can articulate the mess is in my mind :D 

As I usually shoot in landscape orientation, this is a good example / inspo for my future / possible book layout. 

Some Yoko and John reference here. 

There is a short video montage on both photographers working procedure, as well as snippets from interviews with them, talking about their work. I found the footage odd in a way, as the interview bits must have been recorded via Skype, as the quality of the image and the sound wasn’t crisp enough, as well as they have included home-made video snaps of some random people eating and I still don’t understand what was it about. Anyway, it was nice to see some behind the scene footage too. 

Random prints could have been found in really high spots. Lack of space or giving a random face-palm experience for the viewer? 

Ipad presentation. Catching up with technology. Wow-factor. Not even surprised. 

[colonelgaddafison-blog]

Rankins Seven 

After watching “7 photographs that changed fashion” it’s changed my opinion on some of the artists. I believe the reason why I changed my opinion was that when Rankin explained the artist’s works I understood. He explained in such a way it almost felt simplistic.   

David Bailey

The context of David Baileys images was quite raunchy as he only photographed men and woman he loved. This makes the photographs more personal to him and you can feel it conveyed through the image. I feel that he was mainly influenced by the woman he loved. 

The main influence was Jean Shrimpton as he was absolutely obsessed with her and they were a couple for four years. In a recent interview with Dazed magazine he said that “Picasso I’ve been in love with since I was 15”.  

“The pictures I take are simple and direct and about the person I’m photographing, and not about me. I spend more time talking to the person than I do taking pictures.” (28th December 2016, Dazed interview)

I am very inspired by Bailey’s photographs as I really like the black and white contrast, especially the detail within the hair and their facial expressions.  

Cecil Beaton 

I feel the context of Beaton’s “Panama hat” is about creating a make-believe world that he’s created in his head.  

MR. Beaton was influenced by some theatrical productions during the 30’s. 

Beaton’s composition is very interesting when it comes to the Panama Hat as it has very subtle shadows which creates another dimension wo his wonderland. 

The purpose of this shoot was to advertise the panama hat to the public as a fashion accessory.  

Erwin Blumenfeld 

The context of Erwin Blumenfeld image from the vogue cover I feel was to defy the boundaries of fashion photography and shape it to his own style. 

“Blumenfeld saw - and was influenced by - French art magazines of the time, where he saw the work of Man Ray and other photographers that inspired him to push further with his own experiments in the darkroom, using solarisation and multiple exposures” (article written by Tamsin Blanchard and published by the Telegraph).  

 I like how his cover for Vogue in 1950 looks digitally manipulated even though it wasn’t as the technology didn’t exist back then. 

I feel the purpose was to stretch the boundaries of fashion photography and take it to a whole new level. 

Herb Ritts  

The context of Herb Ritts iconic photograph Fred with tires was to revolutionise men’s fashion photography as before MR. Ritts you could say male fashion photography was very dull. 

For his fashion photographs, Ritts drew inspiration from painting, sculpture, film, and the work of such leading fashion and portrait photographers as George Hurrell, Horst P. Horst, Louise Dahl Wolfe, Irving Penn, and Richard Avedon. Ritts's ability to synthesize and incorporate these influences into a new style that was easily recognizable was nothing less than extraordinary. (The J. Paul Getty Museum) 

   I really like how Ritts exposed this photograph as he managed to get so much definition in the model’s muscles which is really hard to get out on location. 

The purpose of this shoot was to advertise was to advertise the vintage jeans for Franca. 

Helmut Newton  

The context behind Helmut Newton’s Rue Aubriot was a spur of the moment thing with a little sexual charged energy. 

In 1948 he married June Browne, an actress he met when she visited his studio looking for modeling work. June played a crucial role in Newton's life through more than fifty years, supporting, encouraging, editing, and protecting her husband. (Love to know, written by Phillippe Garner)

I really like the photograph Rue Aubriot as it a simplistic shot but has so much sexual ambiguity behind the image. 

I believe the purpose of this shot was for a fashion magazine. 

Guy Bourdin 

The context behind the untitled image was he was shooting for Vogue magazine. 

As you possibly know, it was surrealism that provided the primary conceptual influence during these formative years. After continuously knocking on but being turned away from the door of his idol, Man Ray, Bourdin, who received his photographic training as a cadet in the air force, was eventually permitted to enter the artist's studio, and some time later, his confidence. As a veteran of several avant-garde movements, including Dada and Surrealism, Man Ray provided a perfect example for the development of Bourdin's own unorthodox conception of art making. (PHAIDON website) 

I really like the saturated colours of Bourdin’s work as it creates a whole new world of intense colours. 

Richard Avedon  

The context behind Dovima with elephants Harper’s Bazaar was that he wanted a striking contrast. 

I believe his main inspiration was from his father as he owned a clothing store in Manhattan. 

I really like Avedon’s work because I like the interesting possess he gets his models to try and it really pays off. 

[promomagazine]

5 Women Shaking Up The Fashion Industry Through Technology

By: Oline Abildstrom

Day by day, technology changes the way we work and plays an ever growing role in the fashion industry. With this evolution, we see an increasing number of women conquering the field and making it their own.

An increasing number of organizations are getting involved in helping educate future generations. The non-profit organization Girls Who Code is shedding light on this cause by reaching out to girls at a young age, showing them that technology and computer science is a place for creativity and is most definitely a future to embrace. They have witnessed remarkable growth in participation over the past few years, so the future looks bright already!

Even fashion’s darling Karlie Kloss is a well-known advocate for technology, using her wide reach and social media fame to empower girls to learn to code and become leaders in tech through Kode With Klossy. Her organisation hosts summer camps and award scholarships throughout the year.

While we’re praising these inspiring ladies, we’d like to give a shout-out to some of our own wonder women. Making technology that transforms the way you work while being easy to use is very much at the core of what we do and we’re really proud of the amazing people we have on our team helping us on this journey. There are many other women pushing the boundaries out there, showing the world that everyone should embrace technology as the field of the future. In today’s article, we’re celebrating some of the women shaking up the fashion tech scene.

Here are 5 women who are shaking up the fashion industry through technology!

Currently: Head of Google’ Fashion Week Search Project Original Stomping Ground: Fairfax, Virginia where she studied Journalism Experience: Australian Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Elle Magazine, The New York Times’ T Magazine, Maxim

Lanphear grew up in the middle of Virginia and has proved that handouts aren’t necessary and that with a lot of hard work and determination you can succeed. For example, when she finally got her first internship in London, working for a magazine, she lived in a crammed hostel where she would clean in the evenings to help pay the rent.

Kate is one of the most loved people in the industry in New York. Her inspiring story shows that you don’t need connections or money to succeed in fashion.

Currently: Gucci’s Digital Media Director Original Stomping Ground: Rutgers University, where she holds a BA in Journalism and Media Studies Experience: Previously at Morpheus Media where she managed brand portfolios for L’Oreal, LVMH, Burberry and more

With Katana as the Digital Media Director, Gucci’s most recent digital campaign #TFWGucci broke the mold of digital marketing for luxury brands. Using memes designed by various artists, they promoted their new watch collection. The campaign spread across social media like wild fire and from that we can draw the conclusion that sometimes making a bold move can really pay off. You do you, Gucci! 

Currently: Founder and CEO at VINAYA Technologies. Original Stomping Ground: Kate holds two degrees, one in Mathematics & Statistics, the other in Economics, both from The Unviversity of Edinburgh. Experience: Founded Student Webstore, worked as a Technology Consultant for many years.

VINAYA Technologies, formerly Kovert Designs, is a wearable tech, fashion brand that started in London. They make connected jewellery that gives a gentle buzz when receiving only the most important notifications. With wellbeing as the main focus, these pieces can also guide you through meditation and breathing exercises. Unsworth saw a gap in the market of fitness trackers and decided to create something aimed at millennial women, with great success! 

Currently: Co-founder and Creative Director at Rebecca Minkoff Original Stomping Ground: Attended The Fashion Institute of Tech Experience: Assistant Designer at Craig Taylor before starting her own brand in 2001

She is a known advocate for incorporating technology, making it part of fashion, something we have seen her do with her own brand time and time again.

Making women the key focus seems to be one of the main drivers for Minkoff and we saw that once again with her venture capital fund that was announced earlier this year. At the Retail’s BIG Show Student Program, she said:

“As we’ve delved more into technology, I’ve come face-to-face with the unsettling truth that it’s devoid of women and our voices. We have men creating technology for women and advocating for our preferences and our needs. We’re often left with the ‘shrink it and pink it’ approach or just not considered at all. That’s not okay.”

See the full talk here:

Currently: Director of Fashion Partnerships at Instagram Original Stomping Ground: BA in Magazine writing from Columbia and a BA in English and Creative writing from John Hopkins University Experience: Lucky, Teen Vogue

 Chen has been dubbed the Anna Wintour of the Digital Age as she has been at the top of everything digital, including social media, for quite some time now. When asked what she wishes she had known at the start of her career she said: “I wish I had known to trust my instinct more and to speak up more! The advice I would give you is to work your hardest and not be glamorized by the glossy aspects of the job. Learn the BUSINESS of it too. That’s the secret!”

Besides being a mom, long-time Launchmetrics supporter and forward-thinking innovator, Chen has a fun and quirky side which you can see with her daily #shoefies Instagram posts. Need a lunchtime break? Definitely check them out!

There are so many amazing women in fashion technology, these are just 5 of them. Do you have a #womancrush we should know about? Who do you find inspiring? Let us know by tweeting @launchmetrics.

[sasykes]

Anuskha-shankar Indian sitar player and composer Anoushka Shankar As Anoushka Shankar prepares for an India tour with her new album, Land of Gold, she speaks of how global concerns are now shaping her music, while her father’s unfinished project, the opera Sukanya, is set to open in the UK next year.

The seeds of Land of Gold were sown in the context of the humanitarian plight of refugees. The album’s title song emerged from unfolding global events in the media. In particular, “The heart-wrenching images of the lifeless body of Syrian infant, Aylan Kurdi, washed-up on a Turkish beach” led to the making of the song Land of Gold”, says Shankar in a note on her website. “Everyone is, in some way or another, searching for their own ‘Land of Gold’—a journey to a place of security, connectedness and tranquillity, which they can call home,” says the artiste, and daughter of the late sitar maestro, Pandit Ravi Shankar. The initial recordings that went into the making of the album were conducted in a remote rural locale in Tuscany, allowing the artistes to experiment with musical styles. Shankar was intent on integrating “the authority of the female voice, and the drive for women to establish personal autonomy and dignity in situations where the female perspective is often, sometimes forcibly, subdued”.  Land of Gold explores a gamut of emotional expressions, incorporating new-age minimalism, jazz, electronica and Indian classical styles. On her upcoming India tour, Shankar’s fans can look forward to an immersive, and intimate, musical experience. The underlying message remains about “the resilience of the human spirit”.

Land of Gold is your eighth studio album. Tell us about the events and life experiences that led to these songs, and their recording. Writing this album coincided with the birth of my second son. I was so troubled with the contrast between my ability to care for my baby and watching millions of people who were less able to provide the same security for their children under nightmarish circumstances. This album was a constructive way for me to channel my distress, to express and explore the emotional response to the trauma I was watching as it unfolded. I believe that art can make a difference, and music has the power to speak to the soul. It feels important for people who believe in the power of connection to speak out, when we are surrounded by leaders who encourage isolationism and mistrust.

How was it to work with artistes like M.I.A, Alev Lenz and Vanessa Redgrave, who collaborated with you on this new record? I wanted to work with women who inspire me, and who represent that sense in their lives and careers of activism and female strength. These women are powerful artistes, but also strong and principled human beings, who speak out against injustice.

Land of Gold deftly fuses Hindustani and Carnatic classical music traditions with a vibe that is largely electronic in nature, including remixes by Shiva Sound System and Mogwai. Is this a natural evolution of your sonic palate? If you look back at my discography, there’s a clear pattern of influences from the styles mentioned, plus various world cultures, and a desire to explore, and connect through music. On an album like this, with themes about connection across boundaries, it felt doubly important to represent that musically, and make the music feel truly integrated, even though it was an amalgamation of styles.

On the tour circuit For fans who have attended each of your five previous solo India tours, what are the new things that they can expect to hear, experience and take away from the Land of Gold show? After Rise and Breathing Under Water, I stopped using electronic elements, and only used live instruments, as I felt frustrated by the limitations that working with electronics imposed. However, 10 years on, the technology has improved, and there is so much that can be done. In India, I kept seeing DJs play “live” with guest artistes, but in the last two years abroad, I’ve watched bands really start to take that technology and push it further, playing music that sounds completely electronic and actually “live”. This is what I’ve done on Land of Gold, where everything is fully triggered live, so we can be fully electronic in sound and depth, without the limitations of playing to loops. The band is also incredible. I’ve scaled it down to a quartet, and that gives each musician so much more room.

Will you be touring with your quartet? I’ve distilled my band to four people this time, as we are able to take listeners on a stronger journey with the space and intimacy that less musicians can provide. Manu Delago is a key collaborator, who co-wrote the music with me, and plays the hang (music instrument) and all percussion live. Sanjeev Shankar plays the shehnai, often sounding more like John Coltrane than any classical musician! Lastly, there is Tom Farmer, an incredible bassist and pianist from London.

How would you explain the global allure of a traditional instrument like the sitar? As with any instrument, it’s not just about the instrument but the instrumentalist. I’m not a big saxophone fan, but I could listen to Charlie Parker or (John) Coltrane for hours. Similarly, my father popularised the sitar not because of his instrument’s beauty, but because of how he could make it sing, with his own creativity and artistic depth.

The fashionista Fashion critics have called your style India-inspired. How would you describe your personal style, and how it has evolved over the years? My taste on and off-stage is often very different, but I like to be comfortable, feel beautiful and authentic, and push myself to take a little risk now and then. I know myself, and it doesn’t suit me to follow trends blindly. However, I enjoy watching fashion and incorporating elements that feel right.

Which designers do you connect with the most, and why? Erdem, Isabel Marant, Maje, Ritu Kumar, and Anita Dongre, are all labels I enjoy wearing. In Western clothes, I like a little bohemia, sexiness, femininity and edge, ideally all combined! In Indian clothes, I favour elegance and depth of colour.

Family connect

How do you strike a balance between a globe-trotting career and being  a mother? It’s hard. There’s no way to beat around the bush on that one, and I think it does women a disservice to be too breezy when answering questions about that. All working mothers struggle, regardless of whether in entertainment or not, to manage keeping afloat at work, while also making sure their children’s needs are fulfilled. Women are heroic and incredible.

Any unfinished projects of your dad that you would like to start over? He started an opera, Sukanya, which is being completed at present, and will be presented at first in the UK next year by the Royal Opera House. This is a new glass ceiling he has shattered even after passing away, as opera is a new frontier for Indian ragas. I’m involved in overseeing this project.

Your views on the recently released album, Day Breaks, by your sister, Norah Jones? I just saw her in a concert a couple of days ago in London, and I love her new album. She keeps growing, and there are some gorgeous songs on offer, as always.

Beyond the stage What do you like to do outside of music, which inherently contributes to your music? For me, it’s about living life fully in order to have experiences to draw from in my music. My family and friends are most important, and I try to see my loved ones as much as possible. I love going out dancing and doing exercise and yoga when I can. I work on a sort of spiritual programme that I do with a group of people, which helps me to stay grounded and connected. When I travel, I try to stay open and keep connecting with new people and cultures.

You often speak out for a number of causes—be it by rising up against child sexual abuse or by creating music that addresses issues surrounding refugee crises. What are the messages that you want to share at present? I simply try to be as honest and truthful to myself as possible. For me, it feels important to speak out when something outrages me, to make music from my heart, and to live as deeply and fully as possible. On December 10. At Dr BR Ambedkar Bhavan, Vasanthnagar, 7.30 pm. Tickets (Rs 500 upwards) on bookmyshow.com.

Details: anoushkashankar.com

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