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Love, Unsaid
Joe x Nicky Drabble. Canon typical violence, Character death (Nicky starts off dead but he’s fine), they hug it out, that’s it, that’s the fic
It’s slow going, removing the sword from Nicolo’s gut.
King Arthur probably had an easier time removing the sword from the stone. Between the constant rain lashing down on them and the constant blood swelling fresh at the wound, the mud that was once this forsaken battlefield anchoring Yusuf where he stands, it is no easy task. He’d snapped the arrows that had landed in Nicolo’s shoulders, the heads have already been expelled by his immortality. When Nicolo revives they’re going to have to reconsider which cause they lend their swords to, coin or no coin.
Still, it is nice to fight together, rather than fighting each other. It had been getting old, in a way they apparently don’t anymore. They are not quite friends, not yet. They shake hands if they part, clasp each other’s shoulders. Nicolo is showing himself to be a kind soul, at his core, repentant and eager to learn.
This fucking sword.
Yusuf coughs with exertion, throwing his aching hands in the air. They are the only fighters left, only the scavengers, human and bird alike now picking their way through the available lootings.
His hands slip on the smoothed prongs of the handguard, wet with rain and water and blood and sweat before Yusuf swears, bends his knees and yanks.
There is a chorus of sounds, a squelching, wrenching crunch before the sword glides free and Yusuf tilts backwards, falling on his arse in the mud. All those minstrals and bards glorifying battles want murdered in a way that sticks. Flinging the weapon aside, he claws his way back over to Nicolo. Those singular eyes are still more reticent of seaglass rather than seafoam.
“Nicolo. Nicolo” Yusuf calls gently, shaking the other man’s shoulder.
“Nicolo”
There’s no movement. Not even a twitch to his little finger.
He glances down at the wound, washed clean by the rain. It’s healing. It must be healing.
Larger wounds take longer they know this. The weapon had obstructed his healing that’s all.
He’s not dead. Nicolo di Genova, the eternal thorn in his side, the handsome bastard who is his only constant in this world is not dead. He’s not allowed to be. He’s not going to be killed permanently by some jumped up rat-faced shit from England after everything Yusuf tried all those years ago.
Yusuf puts a hand on Nicolo’s cheek, still warm despite the icy sheen of water soaking them through.
“Nico”
There’s a wet gasp that’s halfway between death rattle and coming air that always accompanies when they are dragged from death to life and Nicolo bolts upright. He gasps several times, sucking in great lungfuls of air greedily.
“You’re alright, You’re alright, it’s over. I’m here. We’re here” Yusuf finds himself repeating, rubbing Nicolo’s back of all things. Nicolo coughs once more, before twisting violently away, still grasping Yusuf’s wrist hard before he vomits.
Yusuf’s already reaching for the waterskin at his own hip as Nicolo spits the last of the bile out. “I’m sorry,” Nicolo rasps, the words coming slow. “Arrows were poisoned”
That English fucker.
No wonder the healing had taken so long. Nicolo’s system had been fighting off two things at once.
“It’s not your fault, my friend” Yusuf says before he can stop himself. Nicolo obviously hears him because he stares open mouthed at Yusuf for a moment, before wiping his mouth on his sleeve. He nods once, a sharp bob of the head as if he can’t quite believe it. Then before Yusuf can stop him, Nicolo stumbles upright, staggering to his feet like a drunkard. He rubs the rain from his face and stands before Yusuf, trembling slightly.
“How – how bad was it?”
They’re healing has quickened over the years, but worse deaths take longer.
“Bad” Yusuf says. They both need food and warmth. What’s done is done.
Nicolo hums, voice still worn. He’s still trembling too, probably cold. His eyes are big and wide and he’s never looked so young to Yusuf as he does now, except maybe when they’d come back to life that first time around, when everything was new and strange and yet still the same.
If it was anyone else, anyone from Yusuf’s old life, he’d probably have hugged them before now. He’s a tactile soul, always reaching out. But they’ve never hugged before.
“Do you – do you want?”
Nicolo barely looks at Yusuf’s half open arms before he falls into them, arms coming to wrap around Yusuf’s middle. Yusuf jumps when he feels a cold nose bury into his neck.
“Thank you Yusuf” he murmurs quietly after a moment, without letting go.
*
It’s so nice to be held, after years of hacking away across the continents, of lying and running and never getting close except out of necessity to sleep, or shoot or bandage.
Nicolo feels the moment all the tension goes out of Yusuf’s shoulders, so that he sags against Nicolo’s shoulders. He can’t help it, he smiles into the other man’s shoulder. This beautiful man who has opened his arms again and again to Nicolo, literally now, despite everything.
It’s so quiet, after a battle. During, you can’t hear yourself think, let alone hear what’s going on – it all melts into one incomprehensible din. Arrows and shields clanging, swords clashing, people screaming. After death has swept the field, it’s deafening in another way altogether.
They’re still holding each other.
In the back of his mind, Nicolo is vaguely away that maybe this hug has gone on a little…long than may be polite. He has taken so much, he should pull back, lest such a blessing not be offered again.
But when he goes to disentangle himself, Yusuf merely shifts his weight to his other leg and Nicolo feels his fingers dig into the mail of his shirt. Of its own volition, Nicolo’s hand comes up to cup the back of Yusuf’s head.
Well. Maybe they both need it.
*
“Andromache!”
Nile watches as Andy gets literally swept – more like scooped – off her feet into a massive hug by Joe. It’s the first time they’ve been separated as a team, the first time Nile’s seen a reunion after a long period of time. The first time she’s seen Andy all but giggle as she’s swayed gently from side to side, feet dangling as Joe hugs her.
Then its Nicky’s turn and its different but no less tender, the way he cups the back of Andy’s head, big arms coming round to wrap around her. They hold each other just as long, just as warmly.
And then the couple’s eyes fall on Nile. They’ve given each other their hands before, clasped each other’s shoulders, hell even had a thumb war on that really fucking long flight to Tripoli.
Nicky looks at Nile for a long moment and then, almost conversationally, opens his arms the tiniest fraction, intent clear. She can take it or leave it and either way is absolutely fine.
God, Nile’s missed hugs. And Nicky and Joe? They give the best fucking hugs. Just…being lightly squeezed, so much that her aching shoulders finally seem to release, in a way that there’s no limit.
What was it Nicky had said?
We’re not meant to be alone.
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Chapter One- The Demon
Marina
ೃ ✦ ✧ ∗ ❥ ҉ೃ ✦ ✧ ∗ ❥ ҉ೃ ✦ ✧ ∗ ❥ ҉ೃ ✦ ✧ ∗ ❥ ҉ೃ ✦ ✧ ∗ ❥ ҉ೃ ✦ ✧ ∗ ❥ ҉
What do you do when all your life you had to learn to run?
There’s a point where you start to get tired.
You try to catch your breath and it feels like you're slowly dying because maybe you are.
But then the strangest thing happens.
You don’t feel your legs anymore and your mind becomes clearer, soon enough you become used to the feeling. It would feel weird if you stopped running so you end up running even faster because what else can you do?
I snap back into reality and look over to my best friend Astro. He looks back at me with a tired but steady smile. We have to act fast or this demon will catch up to us and win.
I draw my sword from my hip and Astro knows the plan just from the expression on my face.
We turn the opposite way and bolt. I slash their arm with my sword and Astro knocks them to the ground. As soon as he gets them down, I anchor my knee to their chest and place my blade right underneath their chin.
I look straight at the face of a person who was on the side of a corrupt leader whose selfishness never stopped growing. To take over my people's land and to take our magic for their selfish use. My face wasn’t well at hiding the disgust that had been boiling inside me. “Tell me everything you know before I have to kill you.”
The demon stopped for a bit and then let out a laugh, a big cold-hearted laugh. “You think I'd tell you anything? You don't scare me, you and your little pet are nothing but past-time for me.”
I look back at Astro who has been visibly upset by the pet remark. “We are more than a past-time if we were able to knock you down so easily,” I say.
The demon lets out an annoyed growl. “Do you think I can tell you anything? If I do then my commander will just torture me to death herself. You are not worth my pain.” For some reason, those words struck me. “You don't have to live like this, you could join us,” I say
The demon pushed me off them. There was a second where I could see that my words had affected them. And there we were standing face to face just staring at each other. It might have been seconds but it felt like an eternity. The demon reached over his shoulder and just like he appeared he was gone leaving behind a green smoke.
“These missions have been harder ever since these demons laid their hands on these teleportation crystal things,” Astro says behind me. “I know they're a pain in the butt!” I let out a desperate scream. “Just to think that I was so close to helping him!”
“You can’t help all of them, Mari, they need to want to be helped,” Astro said as he placed his hand on my shoulder. I give him a warm smile. “It’s just that I know demons aren’t all bad, they have the power to be good, it's not all about where you come from, it's about who you are as a person” I sighed. “They are fighting us to survive. I guarantee you that if given the choice, they wouldn't even want to fight in this stupid war!”
Astro looks at me with sympathetic eyes. “Hey let’s get your mind off things! How about cake? I heard the shop might have a new cake flavor!”
I let out a much-needed laugh. “Cake sounds amazing actually”
“Yeah! But first, we need to get you a new sword.” “What?” I said, startled. I look down to realize my sword has bent during the fight. The swords they usually give to soldiers my age are extremely flimsy. You’d think that maybe we would save money by just making better swords rather than making hundreds of flimsy ones.
“I don’t remember my sword bending,” I say.
“Huh, must have happened when you weren’t looking or something”
“I am always looking, you know that.”
“Maybe you aren’t as sharp-minded as you thought!” Astro puts on a giant cheeky smile on his face. I scoff dramatically. “Okay wow, you're paying.”
“What! That’s not fair!”
“Oh it is, you insult me and now you buy me cake it’s a completely understandable trade.”
“Okay fine whatever” he pretends to roll his eyes.
As we are walking to the Young Knight Center, which is called Y.K.C. by most, I can't help but notice a strange aura surrounding Astro. I look over to see his gloomy face and immediately remember why. We never mentioned the pet comment, it was always a sore topic for Astro.
Animal spirits like him are always treated as less than Thesians. He never wants to use his wolf side in combat because then they'd know. Very few of our colleagues know that he is an Animal spirit but demons can sense it.
I know how he feels. It's one of the many reasons why we are even friends. He knows I’m part human and must completely change myself around normal Thesians. My eyes are a dark brown color as opposed to the usual green, purple, or red. Every morning I have to put on my contacts to hide my real eye color. Humans are more emotional than Thesians, they cry, laugh, and feel love for others (whatever that feeling is) but Thesians are more serious and don't feel these things. Eventually, after hiding a huge part of yourself you feel ashamed, alone, and especially scared because you don’t want people to feel disgusted by you.
I look over at Astro who is still looking gloomy. “You know that I'll always have your back right?” I say.
“Of course and you know that I'll always have yours. We have each other.”
We give each other a small smile and keep walking but now the air feels lighter. It is nice to know that in this whole world, I have someone that I can be myself with. I care so much for Astro and I know he cares for me, so I plan to keep him with me for as long as possible.
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Left, Mona Hatoum, Bourj III, 2011, Mild steel tubing, 180 x 80 x 55 cm. Via. More. Right, Matias Faldbakken, Parts Cabinet, 2013, metal cabinet, plastic bins, screws, bolts miscellaneous, 200 x 70,5 x 37cm. Via. More.
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In popular culture we have “the bachelor pad,” and “the bachelor lifestyle,” but no such phrases for women. Women who live alone are objects of fear or pity, witches in the forest or Cathy comics. Even the current cultural popularity of female friendship still speaks to how unwilling we all are to accept women without a social framework; a woman who’s “alone” is a woman who’s having brunch with a bunch of other women. When a woman is truly alone, it is the result of a crisis—she is grieving, has lost something, is a problem to be fixed. The family, that fundamental social unit, dwells within the female body and emanates from it. Women are the anchors of social labor, the glue pulling the family, and then the community, together with small talk and good manners and social niceties. Living alone as a woman is not just a luxury but a refusal to bend into the shape of patriarchal assumption and expectation. (...)
I cleaned my apartment when no one was coming over, and cooked elaborate meals with no guests in mind but myself. I began to learn to say “no” to things, to define space for myself. I considered decisions longer, and hurt people less. With no one else’s needs into which to escape, it becomes much more difficult to skid through life on self-delusion and comfortable ignorance. Living alone is a confrontation with the mirror, a removal, if only for certain hours of the day, from the social contract, outside the systems of manners that grow up around women like strangling vines. It is becoming the witch in the forest, powerful and watchful and silent, setting visitors on edge. (...)
Living alone is a reminder that we can make our bodies antisocial, hoarding our selfishness and our silence. Loneliness and solitude are privileges of thoughtless and full-throated adulthood traditionally handed to men and kept from women. They are the strange and rich pleasures of the world beyond the social, beyond the structures of home and family.
Helena Fitzgerald, from The Fierce Triumph of Loneliness, for Catapult, May 18, 2016.
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The best garden sheds for 2023
The best garden sheds for 2023
A garden shed is an invaluable storage solution, which can be used to tidy away everything from plant pots and tools to the lawnmower. They can also double as a workshop, for all those garden DIY projects.
There’s a huge variety of sheds available in different styles, materials, and prices. To help you choose the right shed for you, we’ve put together a list of some of the best garden sheds available.
To keep your new shed tidy, browse our guide to the best shed storage ideas and garden storage ideas. We also have handy roundups of the best shed paints and tips on how to improve your shed.
The best garden sheds in the UK
We’ve rounded up a selection of some of the best sheds available to buy in the UK. The sheds in our list are all made from either timber sheds, plastic sheds or metal sheds.
The measurements featured below are a guide and list the widest, highest or deepest measurements of each shed’s dimensions. Further details such as exact door widths and heights at different points of the roof can be found on our website.
Rowlinson Oxford 4ft x 3ft Wooden Apex Garden Shed with Lean-To
Mercia 6×4 Overlap Apex Timber Shed
The Mercia 6×4 Overlap Apex Timber Shed is perfect for those who are on a budget. A must have for any garden, this shed is the perfect storage space for your garden tools, equipment, furniture, and outdoor games.
With a strong build and durable construction, this shed will keep its contents safe and secure. With it’s compact space-saving design, it’s ideal for smaller gardens. Perfect for those who want to step up their gardening game to the next level.
Palram 6×8 Canopia Skylight Plastic Apex Shed – Amber
Update your garden with the addition of the Palram 6×8 Canopia Skylight Plastic Apex Shed – Amber , a stylish heavy duty addition that allows you to safely store a range of equipment including lawn tools, sports equipment, patio furniture and more.
Built using highly resistant polycarbonate panelling and a rust-free aluminium frame, this shed is maintenance free and resistant to weather deterioration for years of outdoor use. The resilient polycarbonate panels do not fracture, discolour or become brittle over time ensuring that the structure remains durable and tough while inside, your garden gear is kept safe from sun damage thanks to the UV blocking roof panels.
The Skylight garden storage shed is made with a reinforced aluminium frame and flexible polycarbonate panels specially engineered to withstand the expansion and shrinkage associated with weather changes. The panels do not bend, fracture, or discolour over time, giving your things maintenance-free protection for years to come. The unique Skylight roof panels transmit natural sunlight during the day while giving you opaque external visibility for maximum privacy as well as front and back vents for ample airflow. Designed with your outdoor living needs in mind, the Skylight plastic shed will complement your home, enhance your outdoor living space, and organize and protect your things.
Yardmaster 8′ x 6’6″ Shiplap Apex Metal Shed – Brown
The perfect way of adding some extra storage space to your garden, this Yardmaster 8′ x 6’6″ Shiplap Apex Metal Shed – Brown will be a welcome addition to your outdoor space.
Made of high-strength, hot-dipped galvanised steel with enhanced resistance to corrosion, warping, swelling and blistering, this metal garden shed is maintenance-free. The permanent, resin-coated finish requires no touch-ups, rust-proofing or application of any preservatives. Other than the occasional cleaning, it takes care of itself and your belongings.
Designed with lockable handles that are attached with anti-tamper bolts, the Yardmaster metal garden shed provides secure storage on your property throughout the year. A free anchor kit is also included to secure it firmly to any kind of surface.
The Yardmaster 8′ x 6’6″ Shiplap Apex Metal Shed – Brown is made from hot-dipped galvanised steel with a resin coated finish with a 15 year anti-rust guarantee.
Included are 2 translucent roof panels to allow daylight into the unit.
Trentvale 8×4 Metal Pent Shed Dark Grey
If you’re looking for an attractive, durable and low-maintenance alternative to a traditional timber shed, then you’ve found it in the Trentvale 8×4 Metal Pent Shed Dark Grey
Featuring double sliding doors for security, gable vents for better air circulation and fire/rot resistance – you can rest assured that your garden valuables are safe and protected.
OutSunny 8×4 Pent Metal Shed – Green
The OutSunny 8×4 Pent Metal Shed – Green is a stylish way to keep your garden and outdoors tidy and organized.
Duramax Sidemate Plus Vinyl Lean To 4×8 Shed – Grey
The New Duramax Sidemate Plus Vinyl Lean To 4×8 Shed – Grey is ideal for beside the home or garage and offers excellent storage facilities .
Available in one size and clad with the highest quality pvc on a strong steel frame and supports. The Sidemate provides a safe and secure storage space. The Sidemate is manufactured from fire retardant durable pvc. It is also weather and fade proof, it will never rust, rot nor require painting every year. The wall columns are reinforced with a solid metal structure, giving the vinyl shed a lot of strength and making it easy to hang shelves or garden tools inside.
Power 8’x4′ Overlap Timber Pent Shed (window or windowless) (single or double door)
Made with high grade premium quality timber throughout including roof and floor (no chipboard or OSB). the Power 8’x4′ Overlap Timber Pent Shed uses 10mm extra thick rustic looking overlap cladding.
The shed can be installed how you want it by allowing you to choose whether to place the doors on the high or low side. All sheds have high grade premium quality timber throughout including roof and floor.
Power Sheds do not use chipboard or OSB unlike many other manufacturers .The Power Pent Shed uses 10mm extra thick rustic looking overlap cladding that is responsibly sourced .
Lock and key, full fixings and instructions included as standard. The shed features include a heavy duty 28x28mm framing with which double to 56x28mm framing for increased strength, galvanised rust resistant ironmongery, and advanced wood preservative for increased protection. High performance polyester roofing felt is used which makes the shed last longer.
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Wire Mesh Cable Tray Fitting Made Easy: A Practical How-To Guide
When it comes to efficient cable management, Wire Mesh Cable Trays are the go-to solution for a wide range of applications, from industrial settings to commercial buildings. Their lightweight, durable design offers excellent airflow around cables, reduces clutter, and allows for easy maintenance. In this guide, brought to you by Madewithless, we’ll take you through a step-by-step process to install wire mesh cable trays efficiently, saving time, materials, and effort.
Wire Mesh Cable Tray Manufacturer
Why Choose Wire Mesh Cable Trays?
Wire mesh cable trays have become a favourite in industries because of their versatility and practical benefits:
Enhanced Airflow: The open mesh design prevents heat build-up, keeping cables cool and improving performance.
Durability with Fewer Materials: Lightweight yet strong, these trays use fewer materials, aligning with our Madewithless philosophy, which means sustainability without compromising quality.
Easy Access and Maintenance: Whether adding or replacing cables, wire mesh trays provide easy access for quick modifications, making them ideal for growing infrastructure.
Wire Cable Tray
Tools and Materials You’ll Need
Before you begin installing wire mesh cable trays, gather the necessary tools and materials:
Wire mesh cable tray sections
Mounting brackets and supports
Cable ties or clamps
Screwdrivers, wrenches, or power tools
Level and measuring tape
Safety gear (gloves, goggles, etc.)
Pro Tip: Have a clear layout of where your trays will run before starting to ensure a smooth and accurate installation.
SS Wire Mesh Cable Tray
Step-by-Step Installation Guide
Step 1: Plan the Installation Route
Start by determining the best route for the cable tray. Measure the length and any bends or corners the tray needs to cover. Careful planning will prevent unnecessary adjustments later.
Tip: Map out the cable tray route, considering obstacles like walls, beams, or equipment.
Step 2: Install Mounting Brackets
Once the route is planned, install mounting brackets or supports. These brackets will hold the wire mesh cable tray in place. Typically, brackets should be spaced 5-6 feet apart, or according to the manufacturer's recommendations.
For wall mounting, use sturdy anchors or bolts to secure the brackets.
For ceiling installations, use threaded rods with ceiling hangers for a solid fit.
Pro Tip: Ensure the brackets are level to avoid misalignment during installation.
Wire Mesh Cable Tray Manufacturer
Step 3: Position the Wire Mesh Cable Tray
With the brackets secured, it’s time to fit the wire mesh tray. Carefully place the sections into the mounting brackets and secure them using screws or clamps.
Multiple Sections: If your installation requires multiple tray sections, use connectors or clamps to link them seamlessly.
Corners and Bends: For any bends or corners, pre-formed fittings make it easy to transition between tray sections.
Step 4: Secure the Cables
After fitting the cable tray, organize and lay the cables inside the tray. Make sure the cables are evenly distributed to avoid overloading any specific area. Once in place, use cable ties or clamps to secure the cables to the tray.
Pro Tip: Label your cables as you go to make future maintenance or expansion easier.
Step 5: Final Inspection and Adjustments
Once the trays are in place and cables secured, inspect the entire setup. Check for stability in the brackets, ensure all cables are properly fastened, and confirm that the tray is aligned and secure.
Pro Tip: Ensure there’s enough slack in the cables for any future adjustments or expansions without straining the system.
SS Wire Mesh Cable Tray Manufacturer
Benefits of the Madewithless Design
Our Wire Mesh Cable Trays follow the Madewithless approach—designed to reduce material waste while delivering top-notch performance. By using fewer materials without sacrificing strength, we’re able to offer an eco-friendly solution that supports sustainability and reduces the environmental footprint of your installations.
Efficient Use of Materials: Reduced material use doesn’t compromise durability, ensuring a strong, long-lasting cable management solution.
Sustainability in Design: Wire mesh trays from Madewithless are designed with the environment in mind, providing a solution that’s both functional and eco-conscious.
Conclusion: Simplifying Cable Management
Installing wire mesh cable trays doesn’t have to be complicated. With proper planning, the right tools, and a step-by-step approach, you can quickly organize your cables and create a clean, efficient system. Plus, by choosing Madewithless wire mesh trays, you’re making an environmentally responsible choice that delivers the durability you need with less material waste.
Whether for data centers, industrial facilities, or commercial buildings, wire mesh cable trays offer flexibility, strength, and ease of maintenance—making them a smart choice for any project. Embrace the Madewithless approach for a simpler, more sustainable solution to cable management.
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Goal Post Maintenance Tips: Extending the Life of Your Investment
When it comes to outdoor sports and recreational events, goal posts play a pivotal role in creating the perfect environment. Whether you’re involved in organising a community event, running a sports club, or just an avid fan of backyard footy, having well-maintained goal posts is essential for both safety and longevity. If you're in Australia and are looking to extend the life of your goal posts, this guide offers valuable maintenance tips.
Why Proper Goal Post Maintenance Matters
Goal posts are a significant investment. They often face harsh weather conditions, wear and tear from intense games, and even accidental damage. By following a proper maintenance routine, you can ensure that your goal posts remain safe, look great, and last longer. Not only does this save money, but it also ensures safety, preventing injuries due to broken or unstable posts. Let's explore the most effective goal post maintenance tips to keep them in top-notch condition.
Regular Cleaning and Inspection
The first step in maintaining goal posts is regular cleaning and inspection. This may seem simple, but it’s essential for ensuring the longevity of your goal posts in Australia’s variable climate.
Clean the Posts:
Use a soft cloth, warm water, and mild soap to clean the posts, removing any dirt, dust, or grime.
Avoid using abrasive cleaners or metal brushes as they can damage the surface, particularly on painted or powder-coated goal posts.
If the posts are metal, make sure they are thoroughly dry after cleaning to avoid rust.
Inspect for Damage:
Check for any signs of rust, cracks, or bends. If you notice any, address these issues immediately.
Look for any loose or damaged bolts, nuts, or connections and tighten or replace them as needed.
Pay close attention to the area where the post meets the ground, as this is often where wear and tear are most evident.
Remove Netting for Cleaning:
If your goal posts have netting, take it down and clean it separately. Use mild soap and water, then allow it to air dry before reattaching.
Regular inspections can help catch any issues early on, preventing costly repairs or replacements in the future.
Protecting Against the Elements
Australian weather can be harsh, with high temperatures, intense UV rays, rain, and humidity all potentially damaging goal posts. Taking measures to protect your goal posts from these conditions is essential.
Rust Prevention:
For metal goal posts, rust is the primary concern. Apply a rust-resistant primer or paint every few years, focusing on any exposed areas where paint has chipped away.
Consider using a sealant designed for metal to add an extra layer of protection against the elements.
Check for rust spots regularly, especially after rainy weather. Use sandpaper or a wire brush to remove any rust, and then apply a protective coating.
UV Protection:
Sunlight can fade the paint on goal posts and weaken any plastic or rubber components. Opt for UV-resistant paint or powder coating to protect against sun damage.
Cover the goal posts when not in use, particularly in the summer months. Using a protective tarp or cover can reduce sun exposure and prolong their lifespan.
Anchor the Posts Securely:
High winds can knock over unsecured goal posts, causing damage. Ensure the posts are anchored properly, particularly if they’re on a portable base.
For fixed posts, check the foundation periodically for stability, and reinforce it if needed.
Seasonal Maintenance
Goal post maintenance isn’t just a one-time effort; it should be part of a seasonal routine. Different times of the year may present unique challenges, so it’s essential to adjust your care routine accordingly.
Summer Maintenance:
The intense sun can be hard on goal posts, so make sure they’re well-protected with UV-resistant paint or covers.
Check for cracks or warping, which are more likely to occur in extreme heat.
Inspect any plastic or rubber components for signs of melting or softening.
Winter Maintenance:
Even in milder Australian climates, winter can bring rain and moisture, increasing the risk of rust. Use a water-resistant cover to shield the posts when they’re not in use.
Clear away any puddles or mud from around the posts, as standing water can lead to corrosion.
If possible, consider storing portable goal posts indoors during the winter to prevent damage from moisture and temperature changes.
Spring and Autumn Maintenance:
These are ideal times for a thorough inspection and any necessary repairs.
Reapply any protective coatings, such as anti-rust paint, and ensure the posts are secure in their foundations.
Check for insects or small animals that may have nested around the goal posts during colder months.
Repairs and Replacement Parts
If you notice any damage during your inspections, addressing it promptly can help extend the life of your goal posts. Here’s how to handle common issues:
Rust Repairs:
Sand away any rust patches and apply a rust-resistant primer. Once dry, paint over with a matching colour to restore the post's appearance.
If rust has caused significant damage, consider replacing the affected part if possible.
Replacing Worn Parts:
Over time, you may need to replace net hooks, bolts, or other small components. Look for high-quality, rust-resistant replacements to ensure durability.
If the netting becomes frayed or damaged, replace it to maintain a professional appearance and functionality.
Structural Repairs:
For metal goal posts, avoid attempting to bend any warped areas back into shape, as this could weaken the structure further. Instead, consider consulting a professional if significant repairs are needed.
Wooden goal posts should be regularly sanded and re-stained or painted to prevent splintering and rotting.
Storing Goal Posts Properly
If you use goal posts for seasonal events or only a few times a year, proper storage is crucial for preserving their quality. Here are a few tips:
Disassemble Portable Goal Posts:
If your goal posts are portable, disassemble them and store them in a dry place when they’re not in use.
Use a soft cloth to wrap the parts and prevent scratches or other damage during storage.
Indoor Storage:
Store goal posts in a garage, shed, or other covered area to protect them from the elements.
Make sure the storage space is dry, as moisture can cause rust or other damage over time.
Cover Fixed Goal Posts:
For posts that are fixed in place, use a weather-resistant cover to protect them from rain, sun, and dust.
Check under the cover regularly to ensure no pests have taken up residence.
FAQs on Goal Post Maintenance in Australia
1. How often should I clean my goal posts?
It's best to clean your goal posts every few months, especially if they’re frequently exposed to dirt or harsh weather. Regular cleaning prevents the build-up of grime and helps identify any potential issues early on.
2. How do I prevent my goal posts from rusting?
Use a rust-resistant primer and paint for metal posts, and make sure they are completely dry after cleaning. Apply a sealant for extra protection, and cover them when not in use to reduce exposure to moisture.
3. Can I repair a broken goal post myself?
Minor repairs, like replacing bolts or sanding off rust, can be done at home. However, for major structural damage, it’s best to consult a professional or consider replacing the damaged section.
4. What should I do if my goal posts become unstable?
Check the ground or base where the posts are anchored. Reinforce the foundation if needed, and ensure all bolts and connections are secure.
Conclusion
Taking care of your goal posts Australia is essential for ensuring they last and remain safe to use. By following these maintenance tips—cleaning and inspecting regularly, protecting against the elements, performing seasonal upkeep, and storing properly—you can extend the life of your goal posts and protect your investment. Goal posts Australia-wide face different environmental challenges, but with consistent care, they’ll continue to serve well for many seasons to come.
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The Best Home Tools for Every DIY Enthusiast
Whether you might be a seasoned DIY expert or maybe beginning to tackle diy projects, having the right tools is vital. The right tools not only make your hard work easier but additionally ensure the job is done safely and efficiently. Here’s a comprehensive guide to the tool reviews and recommendations that every household needs to have.
1. Hammer A hammer can be a must-have for every home. Whether you’re hanging pictures, assembling furniture, or doing minor repairs, a good-quality hammer is indispensable. Opt for a claw hammer, which has a flat head for driving nails as well as a claw for removing them.
2. Screwdriver Set A versatile screwdriver set is crucial for various tasks around the house. Choose a set that includes both flathead and Phillips-head screwdrivers in different sizes. Magnetic tips certainly are a bonus, as they make handling small screws easier.
3. Adjustable Wrench An adjustable wrench can tackle a number of nuts and bolts, making it a versatile tool for plumbing, automotive, and general repair tasks. Choose one which has a comfortable grip and smooth adjustment.
4. Tape Measure A reliable tape measure is important for any project that requires precise measurements. A 25-foot measuring tape is usually sufficient for most household tasks, from measuring furniture spaces to cutting materials accurately.
5. Cordless Drill A cordless drill is often a powerful tool that can handle drilling holes and driving screws easily. Look for one with adjustable speed settings, an excellent battery life, plus a comfortable grip. A pair of drill bits and driver bits can make it much more versatile.
6. Level A level ensures that your work is perfectly horizontal or vertical. Whether you’re hanging shelves, mounting a TV, or installing cabinets, a level is important for a professional-looking finish. A digital level offers added precision.
7. Utility Knife A sharp utility knife is important for cutting materials like drywall, carpet, or cardboard. Choose one with a retractable blade for safety, and extra blades accessible for when the blade dulls.
8. Pliers A list of pliers is essential for gripping, twisting, bending, and cutting wire and other materials. Needle-nose pliers are particularly helpful for reaching into tight spaces, while slip-joint pliers are great for general use.
9. Stud Finder When you should hang something heavy on the wall, obtaining a stud to anchor it is essential. A stud finder can help you locate the studs behind your walls, preventing potential damage and ensuring that your backpacks are securely fastened.
10. Safety Gear Safety gear is often overlooked but is important for any home project. A basic kit should include safety glasses to safeguard your eyes, work gloves to shield your hands, and ear protection for loud tasks. A dust mask is also essential for projects that creates dust or fumes.
11. Toolbox or Tool Bag Keeping your tools organized is half the battle. A sturdy toolbox or tool bag with compartments many different tools makes sure that you can quickly find things you need when you need it. Some toolboxes even feature built-in trays for smaller stuff like screws and nails.
12. Multi-tool A multi-tool combines several tools into one compact device, so that it is perfect for quick fixes when you don’t wish to carry around the full toolkit. Look for the multi-tool which includes pliers, screwdrivers, a knife, and also other essentials.
Investing in high-quality home tools can be a smart decision that may pay off in the long run. With these essential tools with your arsenal, you’ll be well-equipped to tackle a wide range of home improvement and repair projects confidently. Whether you’re fixing a leaky faucet, assembling furniture, or hanging artwork, these tools will make your DIY endeavors easier, safer, plus more enjoyable.
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The Future of Fasteners: Spotlight on Leading Bolt Manufacturers in 2024
Jinnox Bolt is a leading Bolt Manufacturers in India of high-quality bolts that has been setting the standard for excellence in India since its inception. With over 25 years of experience, Jinnox Bolt has become one of the most trusted and reliable names in the bolt manufacturing industry. Founded in 1995, Jinnox Bolt started as a small-scale enterprise in Mumbai, India. However, with a strong focus on quality and customer satisfaction, it quickly grew into a renowned brand known for its superior products and exceptional services.
Types of bolts offered by Jinnox Bolt and their specific uses
Hex Bolts:
Hex bolts, also known as hexagon head bolts, are among the most commonly used bolts in construction and industrial projects. They have a hexagonal head with threads on the shaft, making them easy to tighten using a wrench or socket. Jinnox Bolt offers hex bolts in various sizes and materials, such as stainless steel, carbon steel, and alloy steel. These bolts are ideal for heavy-duty applications that require high strength and durability.
Carriage Bolts:
Carriage bolts have a smooth, dome-shaped head with a square neck under it. They are mostly used for wood-to-wood connections or where aesthetics are important, as the square neck prevents them from rotating while tightening the nut. Jinnox Bolt offers carriage bolts in different lengths and diameters to suit your needs.
U-Bolts:
U-bolts are bent in the letter "U" shape with threads on both ends. They are commonly used for attaching pipes, cables or other round objects to surfaces like wood or metal posts. Jinnox Bolt offers U-bolts in different shapes, such as round bend, square bend, semi-round bend, etc., depending on their application requirements.
Cup Square Bolts:
Cup square bolts have a rounded cup-shaped head with threads on their shank end, making it easier to use without damaging any surface due to over-tightening. This type of bolt is usually used when connecting two pieces of wood by passing through an already-drilled hole before screwing into place. Jinnox Bolt offers cup square bolts in different sizes that are suitable for various woodworking applications.
Eye Bolts:
As the name suggests, eye bolts have a circular loop at one end and threads on the other. They are used for lifting heavy objects or as anchor points for cables and ropes. Jinnox Bolt offers eye bolts in various materials and sizes to meet the diverse needs of its customers.
What sets Jinnox Bolt apart from other bolt manufacturers?
There are Numerous Bolt Manufacturers in India, all claiming to offer high-quality products. However, Jinnox Bolt stands out from the competition for several reasons. This section will explore what sets Jinnox Bolt apart and why it is considered the standard for high-quality bolts in India.
Superior Quality Materials:
At Jinnox Bolt, quality is our top priority. We use only the finest-grade raw materials to manufacture our bolts, ensuring that they can withstand even the toughest environments and applications. Our bolts are made of premium-quality steel and undergo rigorous testing to meet international standards such as ISO 898-1:2013.
State-of-the-Art Manufacturing Process:
Jinnox Bolt has a fully automated production facility with cutting-edge technology and machinery. Our advanced production process ensures precision engineering and consistent quality control, resulting in highly durable bolts that withstand extreme pressure, tension, and corrosion.
Extensive Product Range:
Another factor that sets Jinnox Bolt apart is its extensive product range. We offer a wide variety of bolts, including hex head bolts, socket head cap screws, carriage bolts, flange bolts, anchor bolts, and more. Our diverse range caters to various industries such as construction, automotive, infrastructure development, agriculture machinery manufacturing, etc.
Customisation Options:
We understand that different industries have unique requirements for bolting solutions. That's why we offer customisation options where our clients can choose from various sizes, lengths, thread types (metric or imperial), coatings (zinc plated or hot-dip galvanised), etc., according to their needs.
Timely Delivery and Competitive Pricing:
At Jinnox Bolt, we prioritise customer satisfaction. We understand the importance of timely delivery and strive to ensure that each order reaches its destination on time. Moreover, we offer competitive pricing without compromising on the quality of our products, making us a preferred choice among customers.
Countries We Export Bolt
Bolt manufacturers in UAE
Bolt manufacturers in UK
Bolt manufacturers in Australia
Bolt manufacturers in South Africa
Bolt manufacturers in USA
Bolt manufacturers in Kenya
Bolt manufacturers in Qatar
Customer testimonials and reviews highlighting the reliability and durability
Customer testimonials and reviews are powerful tools for showcasing the reliability and durability of Jinnox Bolts. These firsthand accounts from satisfied customers demonstrate the quality and performance of these bolts, solidifying their position as the standard for high-quality bolts in India.
Website: jinnoxbolt.com
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Shop SS Marble Clamp or Stone Cladding Clamp online at the best price in India by implemental.in. It is suitable for concrete walls: Directly fixed into walls with bolts or screws, Indirectly fixed into a U-channel system with bolts. Horizontal joints Installation or Anchors fix and carry on the top and bottom edges of granite tile. Vertical joints installation is anchors fix and carry on the left and right edges of granite tiles, restraining against wind suction and pressure.
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New York United Heroez: The Story of Eagle and Uncanny Valley - Chapter 1: Aftermath (Part 1)
In the heart of New York City's bustling streets. Amidst the cacophony of honking horns and hurried footsteps, a fierce battle unfolded. The United Heroez found themselves facing a foe, known as Janus Two-face.
She stood before them like a twisted embodiment of duality itself. Janus's appearance was as unsettling as her name suggested. Pale skin, streaked with muck, gave her an otherworldly aura, as if she had emerged from the depths of some forgotten nightmare. Her black, silky hair hung in dreadlocks, parted down the middle of her head. Adorned in worn-out cloth that billowed around her like a tattered shroud, she seemed to embody the very essence of decay and destruction. Thick broken chains hung from her wrists, their metallic clinks echoing like a sinister warning of the danger she posed.
It was a visage that sent shivers down the spines of even the bravest souls. But it was not just her appearance that set her apart. She possessed a chilling power—her mesmerizing gaze can manipulate people at will. With a single glance from either of her haunting eyes, she ensnares minds, bending victims to her dark purposes. Those caught in her gaze become puppets, their thoughts and actions controlled by her influence.
As the heroes braced themselves for the coming battle, they couldn't help but feel a sense of unease at the sight of Janus. When she unleashed her power, chaos erupted among the citizens, turning them against each other in a frenzy of fear and aggression. The United Heroez sprang into action, prioritizing the evacuation of citizens first, giving Janus much less targets.
Uncanny Valley and Sparrow assisted in the evacuation, fetching people from each corner.
Uncanny Valley soared through the smoke-filled sky. She was joined by a squadron of fellow heroes, their capes billowing behind them as they darted between buildings, their presence instilling a sense of reassurance in the hearts of those below. Meanwhile, Sparrow, agile and swift, raced through the streets with unparalleled grace, his movements a blur as he navigated through the labyrinth of debris and confusion. His eyes scanned the surroundings for any sign of distress as she guided frightened civilians towards safety. They retreat to the evacuation center, farther away from the attacked area.
High above, atop a towering bridge, a man teetered on the edge, his mind ensnared by the spell of despair. With resolve etched on his face, he made a fateful decision—to leap into the abyss below. But as he prepared to plunge into the unknown, a streak of movement caught his eye.
Swift as a lightning bolt, Sparrow swooped in. He unleashed his owl-grapple, the metallic hook of the grapple embedded itself into the concrete wall with a resounding thud, anchoring Sparrow in place as he swung perilously through the air. He launched towards the falling man, grasping desperately for him hurtling towards oblivion. Sparrow's hand closed around the man's wrist, his muscles straining against the force of gravity as he fought to halt the descent. With a mighty heave, he pulled the man close, his breaths coming in ragged gasps as he defied the darkness threatening to claim them both. Sparrow was able to hoist the man to safety, his heart pounding in his chest as he surveyed the chaos around them.
As the dust settled and the chaos began to subside, a figure descended from the skies with an air of regality that commanded attention. Majestia landed gracefully before the assembled team, her presence exuding an aura of strength and authority, "Is that everyone?" she inquired. "Yes," Uncanny replied, ever vigilant in the skies above scanning the area below for any stragglers in need of rescue, "That's everyone," she confirms. Sparrow, standing steadfast at her side, nodded in silent agreement.
Then a new presence made itself known. Knight Owl, towering and imposing, emerged from the shadows with an intensity that sent shivers down their spines. "Good. Now go," he commanded, his words leaving no room for hesitation.
As Knight Owl's stern command hung in the air, Sparrow's rebellious instincts kicked in. Before he could voice his protest however, Knight Owl silenced him with a raised hand, his gaze unyielding. "I am not repeating myself. You and Uncanny leave," Knight Owl reiterated, his tone leaving no room for negotiation. But Sparrow, unwilling to back down, persisted, his voice tinged with defiance "But we can help take her down! I can even fight her with my eyes closed!" he argued fervently. Yet, before Knight Owl could respond, a sudden blur of motion streaked through the air, drawing their attention.
A blue streak whirled around them, revealing to be Mercury. "It’s too dangerous for you kids," he interjected, his voice laced with concern as he sought to temper Sparrow's bravado. Majestia, her expression grave, added her voice to the chorus of warnings, "You two must go now," she insisted, her words carrying the weight of authority born from years of experience on the battlefield.
With a heavy heart and a sense of reluctant acceptance, Sparrow hesitated for a moment before reluctantly obeying the adults’ command. Alongside Uncanny, he turned to leave.
Or did they?
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What Are Some Tips for Safely Moving Furniture to a New Location?
Introduction:
Moving furniture to a new location can be a challenging task, requiring careful planning and execution to ensure that your valuable pieces arrive safely and securely. Whether you're relocating to a new home or office, proper handling and packing of furniture are essential to prevent damage during transit. In this blog, we'll explore some expert tips for safely moving furniture, with a focus on ensuring a smooth and stress-free relocation process with the assistance of professional furniture shifting services in Chennai.
1. Take Inventory and Plan Ahead
Before you start packing, take inventory of all the furniture you'll be moving to ensure that nothing gets left behind. Create a detailed plan for packing and loading, taking into account the size and weight of each item, as well as any special considerations such as fragile pieces or awkward shapes. Planning ahead will help streamline the moving process and minimize the risk of damage to your furniture.
2. Disassemble When Possible
For large or bulky furniture pieces, consider disassembling them before moving to make transportation easier and safer. Remove any removable parts such as legs, drawers, or shelves, and pack them separately to prevent damage. Keep track of screws, bolts, and other hardware by storing them in labeled bags or containers, and be sure to follow assembly instructions carefully when reassembling furniture at the new location.
3. Use Protective Packing Materials
Protect your furniture from scratches, dents, and other damage by using appropriate packing materials. Wrap delicate surfaces such as wood or glass with bubble wrap or furniture blankets to provide cushioning and protection during transit. Use cardboard corner protectors to reinforce vulnerable corners and edges, and secure everything in place with packing tape or straps to prevent shifting during transport.
4. Lift with Proper Technique
When lifting and carrying heavy furniture, use proper lifting techniques to avoid injury and damage to the furniture. Bend at the knees and lift with your legs, keeping your back straight and using the strength of your legs and core muscles to support the weight. Enlist the help of friends or family members for heavy lifting, and consider using lifting straps or furniture dollies to make the process easier and safer.
5. Protect Floors and Walls
Before moving furniture out of your current location, take steps to protect floors and walls from damage. Lay down protective floor coverings such as furniture pads or cardboard to prevent scratches and scuffs, especially when moving heavy items across hardwood or tile floors. Use moving blankets or cardboard to create a barrier between furniture and walls to prevent dents and marks.
6. Secure Furniture Inside the Moving Vehicle
When loading furniture into the moving vehicle, take care to secure each piece properly to prevent shifting or tipping during transit. Use straps or ropes to anchor furniture to the walls or floor of the truck, and stack heavier items on the bottom with lighter items on top to distribute weight evenly. Be sure to leave enough space between items to allow for airflow and prevent damage from rubbing or friction.
7. Drive Carefully and Slowly
Once everything is loaded into the moving vehicle, drive carefully and slowly to minimize the risk of damage to your furniture. Avoid sudden stops, sharp turns, and rough terrain whenever possible, and take extra precautions when driving over bumps or potholes. If you're not comfortable driving a large moving truck yourself, consider hiring professional movers like RKS Transport who have experience navigating safely with large loads.
8. Unload and Reassemble with Care
When you arrive at your new location, take care when unloading and unpacking furniture to prevent damage to both the furniture and the surrounding area. Use proper lifting techniques and teamwork to safely remove items from the truck, and place them in their designated spots in the new space. Take your time when reassembling furniture, following assembly instructions carefully to ensure everything is put back together correctly.
9. Inspect for Damage
After all the furniture has been unloaded and arranged in the new location, take the time to inspect each piece for any signs of damage or wear. Check for scratches, dents, loose screws, or other issues that may have occurred during the move. If you notice any damage, document it thoroughly and contact your packers and movers in Chennai to address the issue and file any necessary claims.
10. Dispose of Packing Materials Responsibly
Once everything is unpacked and set up in your new space, be sure to dispose of packing materials responsibly. Recycle cardboard boxes, packing paper, and other recyclable materials, and dispose of any non-recyclable items under local regulations. Keeping your new space clean and clutter-free will help you settle in more quickly and enjoy your new surroundings.
Conclusion:
In conclusion, safely moving furniture to a new location requires careful planning, proper packing, and responsible handling throughout the entire process. By following these expert tips and enlisting the help of professional movers like RKS Transport, you can ensure that your valuable furniture arrives at its destination safely and securely, allowing you to enjoy your new space with peace of mind.
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How to Fix a Hinge in Israel
March 9, 2024
Since I'm in Israel now waiting for Abby's baby to come, there aren't any eggs to count. Instead, I offer this telling of an amazing home repair. This time at Abby and Syoma's apartment in Carmei Gat, Israel.
Problem: The top hinge has fallen out of a cabinet door in Abby's kitchen taking a good chunk of particle board with it.
No Problem, I can fix this. Follow along step by step!
Step 1) Call Mike for advice:
Syoma's solution is to ask their landlord to fix it. I have my doubts on this because the landlord already tried to fix it by screwing it back in. That held for one or two days until someone used it again. Did I mention that a good hunk of the particle board was broken. Mike as always has some ideas but first we must. . . .
Step 2) Obtain buy-in from Syoma:
The landlord has agreed to allow me to fix it.
Step 3) Develop a Plan of Action:
After extensive conversation with Mike, both on the phone and by text, it was decided that the best way to fix this was not to try to screw it in again, but to bolt it. This was possible because there was nothing on the other side of the cabinet - just an empty space for a dishwasher. An aspirational dishwasher I think is the term for it. (Abby has an aspirational TV - this is how I learned the term. It refers to the TV that you don't have but wished you did.) In Israel, rentals do not come with appliances - everyone brings their own or buys the old ones from the previous tenants. Rooms in Israel are also without closets. Again, bring your own or buy one from the previous tenant. Big market here for armoires! Total digression - the point is that instead of having to patch the particle board and figure out how to attach a screw to it without it breaking again, I can just bolt the hinge in and put a nice nut in the space where there is no dishwasher. The gaping hole in the particle board will be filled with wood epoxy; then drill; then bolt! Ta da - easy peasy and no waiting weeks and weeks for the landlord to "fix" it. (It will actually need two bolts as the hinge was held in with two screws.) Just so you know that there was no detail missed, there was also a lot of discussion on what type of lock washer to use.
This is the piece that used to be in the particle board.
It's a sort of two sided plastic molly, but only one side remains. Mike and I did discuss for a long long long time whether we could obtain a new anchor at IKEA. (The cabinetry by all appearances is an IKEA product.) We even spent a lot of time on the IKEA website even looking for the part! But in the end, with the revelation that there is nothing on the other side of the cabinet, the bolts won.
Until the repair is done, the cabinet door is propped up with a bean can topped with a folded up piece of cardboard and a lid from a tub of Philadelphia Cream Cheese, the cardboard and lid functioning as shims. We have also added chairs on either side to remind us NOT to close the cabinet which will certainly break the other hinge. Only the top hinge is the problem and we do want to keep it this way.
Step 4) Gather tools:
Abby, it turns out, has no tools. Well, she has a screwdriver and a rubber mallet and a pair of the cutest vise grips you've ever seen.�� Super cute! Syoma's opinion of tools is "who needs them, call the landlord to fix everything and don't put up pictures or shelves because it just makes holes in the walls that you have to fill when you move out." Oye, thankfully he has a friend with tools. And we arrange to borrow a drill and a hammer.
We can't get the drill until the next day, so the whole thing sits precariously and no dishwashing is done as this is the under-the-sink cabinet. The chairs do not work as planned and we closed the cabinet door several times by accident, bending the bottom hinge but not breaking it or causing it to pull out of the particle board.
Whew! We make it through the night without further damaging the door. Turns out that Syoma met his friend while taking a night time walk and picks up the drill. So we are ready to roll!
Step 5) Buy Bolts and Wood Epoxy:
Here's where the fun starts. Abby lives in a "new town". It looks like Crystal City - lots of high rises (lots and lots of them) and hardly any commercial activity yet. A ton of aspirational stores and oddly, four supermarkets and two produce shops. I guess people have to eat. Also two bakeries and a sort of dollar store type of place called "Booom" (no typo, three "O"s and it's in English too.)
But also, right near Abby's friend with the drill, there is supposed to be a hardware store. So off we go. After a lot of looking and skepticism that it exists, and some ooh and aahing at the beautiful rainbow of meringues at the bakery and a little discussion of whether we should stop for a coffee and baked good (over ruled by Abby) we find it. It's called, again in English, "Go Fix". It might also have a Hebrew name, but the English name is written in big letters over the door.
It's a pretty great name but in truth - false advertising. This is the most under-stocked hardware store ever. You would be hard pressed to fix anything. Yes, it does have some little bins of nuts and bolts, the hallmark of a good hardware store, but only 4 or 5 different sizes and no 6s which is what we need. Well, some 6s but not long enough. Not the hardware store of my youth with hundreds and hundreds of little drawers of every screw, nut, bolt, washer you could possibly want. No bolt to be had, so we move on to wood epoxy. This is a two-part epoxy for filling wood. Just the thing for particle board and you can drill it! First, the people show us wood putty and then wood glue. Finally, after explaining that I want a two-part epoxy, the woman, who speaks excellent English, has a moment of clarity and shows me tubes of two-part epoxy for steel and ceramics, but no wood. (They are right on the counter by the register in a small bucket.) And then the guy shows me a tube of something that is used for anchoring things in concrete. He thinks this might work. I demur. It does not seem drillable as it appears to be silicone based. I return to the two-part epoxy tubes and ask if maybe they can be used for wood too. They are written entirely in Hebrew, so I can't tell. Abby tries translating with her phone, but it doesn't work. Then the woman reads the label on the tube and - hope against hope - the one for steel can also be used for wood! The tube is excitedly passed around for verification - everyone nodding and beaming and affirming, yes, it can be used for wood! A sale is made and we are on our way to go fix.
Step 6) Buy Epoxy and Bolts (part two):
The epoxy has to cure for 24 hours, so that's how long we have to find the bolts. Syoma has a plan. We will go to the "old city", and by old they mean it was built in the 1960s. The old city is the real Kiryat Gat and Abby lives in Carmei Gat, the new city, which is across the highway. It's the same postal code, but has its own name. Construction of Carmei Gat commenced in 2017 with the goal of 10.000 units - mostly high rise apartments. You can google it. It was sort of conceived as a bedroom suburb for Tel Aviv - only 35 minutes away and appeals to young families because it is cheap. There are more playgrounds than open stores. I counted 12 on our three block drive to the highway. This is true.
Upon entering the old city hardware store, I am transported. The smell takes me back to my youth where I spent many hours with my dad at Community Hardware. Big bins of nails, thousands of little drawers of stuff, an old worn wood counter with "special tools" behind the cashier staffed by men who look like they've spent a lifetime fixing things. This is my happy place. Syoma has no patience for shopping and thinks it smells like "oil". Abby indulges me as I head straight for the little drawers. There it is - a whole section labeled "6", screws and bolts of all sorts and lengths and head types. But weirdly, none in the length I need. And then, I spot one - on the counter where dozens of screws have been abandoned by would be buyers. (The young Maurie would have had a fine time sorting and returning everything to its place. They loved to sort things as a child.) And the guy comes over to help (asking Syoma first - naturally). I show him the screw that I found and say I need another just like it and maybe a little longer please. Well, I mime this as I don't speak Hebrew. He pokes around, opens some drawers, shuts some others and says "we don't have them". He also mimes this. Syoma has abandoned us. "How can that be", I mime back, "I found this one." "Just is", he answers and leaves me there to figure something else out. As luck would have it, we were able to find two more 6 bolts (on the floor this time), different lengths, but they will work and I even have an idea to ask the man to cut them to the right length. This will be easy to mime. Washers and nuts are procured (there are bins of them).
Next comes my best (or most baffling part). There is an electrician's tool that strips wire that I really only recently learned can also be used to cut bolts. The problem, as everyone knows, is that you ruin the threads of the bolts if you try to cut them with a hacksaw or diagonal cutter. This tool solves that problem. You screw the bolt into a hole and by super hard squeezing, you can cut the bolt. The holes are even nicely labeled for the size of screws. My idea was to find the tool and ask the guy if I could borrow it to cut the bolt. I would have sprung for it to add to Abby's pathetic tool collection, but I couldn't imagine that she would have a subsequent use for it. I found the tool, easily spotted as it was right behind the cash register. I'm not sure why it was there because it is not like it is so valuable that it risks being stolen. It's actually really cheap - maybe $10 - but that's the type of place this was - randomly organized. And who knows, maybe electricians pocket this tool all the time. So, I ask the man in my best mime if he has one that I can use to cut the bolt. The one behind the register is all in its packaging but maybe he'll take it out and let me use it. Or maybe he has one somewhere that is not in its packaging.
Here's where it gets interesting. The man tells me that this tool cannot be used for cutting bolts. He brings out some diagonal cutters and offers to cut my bolts with them, but explains that it will ruin the threads. That part he tells Syoma who has now joined us with a power strip that he intends to buy. Yay - Syoma's here. He can explain to the guy that no, the tool for stripping wires will cut the bolts too. And the guy explains to Syoma who explains to me that it's not for cutting bolts but for stripping wires and crimping. He won't budge on this point. So frustrating to me. I want so much to show him how it works, but it's not to happen and we leave with too long bolts and me wondering - how can it be that the guy doesn't actually know this use of the tool? I didn't know until recently, but it's not my business to sell tools. And it's such a great use for this tool. Electricians like it because frequently the bolts are too big for the space they are installing the box, with this there is no need for an extra tool. Why didn't the guy believe me? Maybe he'll go home and think about it and give it a go. And if you are reading this, and didn't know what those holes are for, now you do!
btw, no charge for all the little bolts, washers and nuts. Syoma tries to pay, but the guy waves him away. It's possible that they were just happy to have me out of the store. You can never tell.
This is the tool of which I have been speaking. You can see the labeled hole.
And this picture shows the various uses for the tool in case you your self were also doubting me, which is unlikely. I'm always right as Dave will attest. Top left - cutting bolts!
Step 7) Install Bolts:
This part takes two seconds. Sand the wood epoxy a little so it's flatter, drill the holes, insert bolts, add washer, nuts and tighten the whole thing. There were no lock washers, so I didn't use them. A little miming with the guy and saying "lock tight" got him to understand the need, but he couldn't find any small lock washers and he thought that a tube of actual Locktite was too expensive for this small use. Me too. I thought I would use nail polish, but Abby doesn't have any. Anyway, we made do without lock washers. We did use Abby's super cute vise grips to hold the bolt while I tightened the whole thing.
Step 8) Another Amazing Repair?
NO. The door doesn't close now. At all. I was worried this would happen. I don't have any experience with cabinet door hinges but somewhere in the back of my mind I had an inkling that they are tricky and need to be adjusted and while I kind of knew this is true, I hadn't a clue on how to do it. Abby gives me this look of "why did you start this project if you were just going to make it worse". (While she would never be so rude as to say this out loud, she has a good face for expressions.) I loosen up the bolts and nudge the door up a little. This does nothing. I think about calling Mike - I know he knows how to install cabinets, but it's the middle of the night for him. So, I do what all thinking people of this day and age do - just google it! Two videos later, the door is opening and closing perfectly! So easy, that's what the little screws are for on the hinge - not the ones that hold it in, but the ones just sitting there waiting to be used to adjust the door. I don't know how they work, but the one on the left straightens the door so it opens and closes properly and the one on the right does something else. I didn't need that one so I didn't watch that part.
Step 9} ANOTHER AMAZING REPAIR!
YES! Another Amazing Repair! I finished by job by coloring the screws with sharpie so they would blend into the cabinet. I did not cut them to the same length.
Ta Da! Easy Peasy!
and
Here is a bonus picture of the flags Mary made hung in the baby's room. (also the guest room)
I also decorated the ceiling shade.
Here are pictures of the other ceiling shades. Nine shekels from IKEA with mom-applied tissue paper decoupage. You have to bring your own light fixtures too in Israel. They just provide bare light bulbs - pig tails as they are called in the trade.
This with flying hearts is in the kitchen
and this is in the entrance way.
And yes, they took forever to make.
Still no baby yet.
xoxoxo Sarah
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W1D2 fundies:2 (software)
We started out with making sheet 2 "straight line shapes". We then drew our new shapes and created every shape. The shapes were a little harder today but still quite easy.
(i changed the lighting bolt shape - mentioned down below)
This was my finished results. I will show the points i used while also talking about each "shape".
For this shape i used P tool to create the shape and then i used A tool when i was done to create a more symmetrical shape. I used the least possible points. This was the easiest shape to make symmetrical. i liked doing it online better then paper because it was easier to create straight lines that were parallel to each other.
this shape ended up being a little less symmetrical because one of the three main column going vertical was larger than the others, and i found i couldn't fix this while using the A tool without moving the entire form of the shape.
I used P to create the shape, but wanted to change the shape mid way through so i made the lightning bolt more on a slant to create a cleaner look. I did this through the A tool. The above shape is the original shape and below is what i changed it to. I think the below shape turned out better and looks more like a classic lightning bolt.
the dog had the most points, but i used more different slants on corners to make the shape more interesting. I again used p tool to create the shape and then a tool to correct. I created the eye after i was finished with the rest of the shape.
The star shape i used pen tool for the original shape and then used A tool to reposition the star points to make the star look more like the a star. This one was really hard to make even. (still easier than paper though because i cant rub out pen).
The last shape was quite fun, i drew a square first with the pen tool and then used that as a reference when i started drawing this shape. I tried to make it evenly spaced and i think it turned out quite good.
Started page 3 "single arc curves" they are terrible. Im currently not a fan of beizer curves. I did - through a lot of effort and anger - make a pretty okay circle though.
To show direction handles to further edit your curves: drag select on A tool - select (on top bar) - object - direction handles
Editing direction handles helps, but its still very hard to get a good looking curve.
(please ignore the circle in the corner i am just so proud)
Drag with line , and then drag with line again to make a "standard" curve. first attempts very difficult so i need to practice.
Keep your handles short.
The handles tell line how to bend so shorter has more control over segment.
1st attempts:
changed curve to 2nd design. adjusted through starting again.
finished curves
you can make handles longer by dragging them to make hings more or less harsh
final closed curves. ^
hybrid curves:
P > draw line > hold down mouse & hold down option> drag line across> let go of mouse> let go of option = should have curve now!
Make curve> go back and click last point (instead of option)
broken point make shape: drag upwards keep hand on mouse, put down option and mimic angle of other handle, then finish the curve.
option= click on anchor point put option and u can edit handles.
shift c: will convert curve anchor point into corner and vise versa.
Got a little over whelmed when we first learnt the beizer curve but doing the harder stuff actually helped me to realise what was going on.
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A Comprehensive Overview of Fasteners for Beginners
Ananka Group is among the best Fasteners Manufacturer in India.Fasteners are a necessary part of manufacturing, DIY projects, and the construction industry. It is essential to grasp the fundamentals of fasteners, whether you are working on your car, building a structure, or assembling furniture. Here, we'll take a deep dive into the world of fasteners, examining their various types, purposes, and beginner-friendly tips.
What are Fasteners?
Fasteners are hardware components that are used to attach or join two or more items. For machinery, buildings, and common objects to remain stable and intact, they are essential. To suit various purposes, fasteners are available in an array of sizes, shapes, and compositions. Additionally, we are the Bolt Supplier in India
Types of Fasteners:
Nuts and Bolts:
Fasteners that are used most frequently are nuts and bolts. Bolts and nuts make a secure connection because their internal threads match. They are made of brass, stainless steel, and steel, and they come in a variety of lengths.
Screws:
Screws are adaptable fasteners that pierce through the material they are driven into thanks to their helical threads. They have a variety of uses, such as fastening metal parts and holding wood pieces together.
Anchors:
In materials like concrete or masonry, anchors are used to give stability. Depending on the application, they are available in a variety of forms, such as wall anchors, wedge anchors, and concrete screws.
Rivets:
Permanent fasteners known as rivets are used to permanently join two or more materials together by bending the river's end to ensure a tight fit. The aircraft, automotive, and construction industries frequently use them.
Clips and Clamps:
Fasteners made for quick and temporary attachment are called clips and clamps. They are frequently used in DIY, car, and woodworking projects.
Materials Used in Fasteners:
Steel:
Steel fasteners are widely used because of their robustness and longevity. They are frequently used in industrial, automotive, and construction settings.
Stainless Steel:
Stainless steel fasteners are perfect for outdoor or marine applications because they resist corrosion. They are frequently utilised in settings where rust is an issue, such as construction.
Brass:
Brass fasteners have a beautiful appearance and are resistant to corrosion. They are frequently used in ornamental items like jewellery and furniture.
Aluminium:
Aluminium fasteners are ideal for marine and aerospace applications because they are corrosion-resistant and lightweight.
Choosing the Right Fastener:
Consider the materials you are joining.
Assess the load and stress the fastener will endure.
Understand the environment – indoor, outdoor, high-temperature, or corrosive conditions.
Pay attention to size, length, and thread type.
Installation Tips for Beginners:
Use the right tool for the job.
Ensure proper alignment and fit.
Apply the correct amount of torque.
Follow the manufacturer's guidelines.
A basic understanding of fasteners is necessary for anyone working on manufacturing, construction, or do-it-yourself projects. Having a thorough understanding of fasteners, regardless of experience level, enables you to make wise choices and assures the longevity and safety of your projects. When you start your projects, keep in mind that the longevity and structural integrity of your work can be greatly affected by the choice of fastener.Our team produces customised fasteners goods in accordance with customer specifications.
For more details:
Product Source: Fasteners Manufacturer & Bolt Manufacturer in India
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How to Effortlessly Install a Cotter Pin: Ultimate Guide
To install a cotter pin, align the holes of the fastened objects and insert the pin through, then bend the ends in opposite directions to secure. When it comes to securing fastened objects, such as bolts or clevis pins, a cotter pin can be a reliable solution. This small yet essential piece of hardware ensures that the connection remains intact, preventing any accidental loosening or disassembly. To install a cotter pin, start by aligning the holes of the fastened objects. Then, insert the pin through the aligned holes and bend the ends in opposite directions to ensure a secure fit. This simple installation process provides added safety and peace of mind in various applications, making it an indispensable element in many mechanical and automotive systems.
Choosing The Right Cotter Pin
When it comes to installing cotter pins, choosing the right one is crucial for ensuring proper functionality and safety. With a variety of cotter pins available in the market, it is vital to understand the different types and select the proper size for your specific application. This guide will help you navigate through the process of choosing the right cotter pin, ensuring a secure and reliable installation. Let's dive in! Understanding Different Types In order to choose the best cotter pin for your needs, it is essential to understand the different types available. Cotter pins come in various shapes and sizes, each designed for specific applications. Here are some common types: - Extended Prong: These cotter pins have longer prongs that can be bent more easily, providing extra security. They are ideal for applications where movement or vibrations might cause the pin to dislodge. - Standard Prong: This type of cotter pin is the most common and widely used. It features two prongs of equal length and is suitable for general applications where moderate strength is required. - Clinch Pin: Clinch pins, also known as "hairpin cotters," have a loop at one end and are inserted through pre-drilled holes. They are commonly used for quick and temporary fastening. Selecting the right type of cotter pin depends on the specific requirements of your application, such as stability, strength, and ease of installation. Selecting The Proper Size Choosing the proper size of the cotter pin is crucial for ensuring a secure fit. Using an incorrectly sized pin can compromise the integrity of the assembly and lead to potential accidents. Here's how you can select the right size: - Check the Hole Size: Measure the diameter of the hole intended for the cotter pin. Ensure that the pin you choose has a slightly larger diameter to allow for a secure fit. - Consider the Shaft Diameter: Take into account the diameter of the shaft or the pin that the cotter pin will secure. The cotter pin should be able to pass through the hole and extend beyond the shaft to prevent it from sliding out. - Verify the Prong Length: The prong length should be sufficient to fold back and secure the pin in place. It should not be too short, as it may not provide enough grip, or too long, which can impede installation. By carefully considering these factors, you can select the proper size of cotter pin that fits securely and ensures the safety of your assembly.
Preparing The Material
When it comes to installing a cotter pin, proper preparation of the material is crucial. By ensuring that the material is ready for installation, you can increase the effectiveness and longevity of the cotter pin. In this section, we will guide you through the steps of preparing the material, including identifying the hole and measuring the depth. Identifying The Hole Before installing the cotter pin, you need to identify the hole where it will be inserted. This hole is usually located in a metal shaft or rod, and it serves as the anchor point for the pin. To identify the hole: - Inspect the material carefully, looking for any pre-drilled holes or existing slots. - If the hole is not readily visible, use a flashlight or magnifying glass to get a better view. - Check the manufacturer's instructions or consult a schematic if available, as they may provide guidance on the location of the hole. By taking the time to properly identify the hole, you can ensure that the cotter pin is inserted into the correct location and that it will effectively secure the material. Measuring The Depth Once you have identified the hole, the next step is to measure its depth. Measuring the depth is crucial as it helps determine the length of the cotter pin that you will need. To measure the depth: - Use a ruler or measuring tape to measure the distance from the surface of the material to the bottom of the hole. - Ensure that your measurement is accurate by aligning the ruler or tape measure parallel to the hole. - Record the measurement in millimeters or inches, depending on your preference and the unit of measurement specified by the manufacturer. By measuring the depth accurately, you can select a cotter pin that is long enough to fully secure the material without being too long. With the material now prepared by identifying the hole and measuring the depth, you are ready to move on to the actual installation of the cotter pin. The next section will guide you through the step-by-step process of inserting the pin securely.
Inserting The Cotter Pin
Properly inserting a cotter pin is essential to ensure the secure assembly of different mechanical components. This step-by-step guide will provide clear instructions on how to correctly insert a cotter pin to guarantee a reliable and safe installation. Positioning The Pin 1. Locate the hole: Begin by identifying the hole where the cotter pin will be inserted. It should align with the slot or drilled hole in the nut, bolt, or other fasteners. Ensure the hole is clean and free from any dirt or debris. 2. Choose the correct pin: Select a cotter pin that is the appropriate size and length for the application. It should fit snugly in the hole without being too loose or too tight. 3. Align the pin: Place the bent end of the cotter pin through the hole, ensuring it is aligned with the slot or drilled hole in the fastener. If needed, use pliers to hold the pin and keep it in position. Inserting The Pin Securely 1. Insert the pin through the hole: Gently push the straight end of the cotter pin through the aligned hole until the bent end emerges on the opposite side. Take care not to force the pin or bend it during insertion. 2. Bend the ends: After the pin is inserted, bend the ends in opposite directions to prevent it from slipping out. Aim for approximately a 90-degree angle to ensure a secure fit. Use pliers if necessary to achieve the desired angle. 3. Check for proper installation: Double-check that the cotter pin is seated securely in the hole and the bent ends are correctly positioned. Ensure there is no excess slack or play in the pin, as this could lead to instability or failure of the assembly. 4. Trim excess length if needed: If the cotter pin is too long and protrudes excessively, use wire cutters to trim the excess length. Be careful not to create sharp edges during the cutting process, as this could cause injury or damage to surrounding components. By following these guidelines, you can confidently install a cotter pin and ensure the proper functioning and longevity of your mechanical assembly. Remember to always refer to the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines specific to your application for the best results.
Bending And Securing The Pin
Now that you have successfully inserted the cotter pin into its designated hole, it's time to ensure it stays in place securely. Bending and securing the pin properly is crucial to prevent any dislodgement or accidents. In this section, we will walk you through the essential steps to create a stable bend and ensure a tight fit for your cotter pin. Creating A Stable Bend Creating a stable bend in the cotter pin is the first step to secure it in place effectively. Follow these simple instructions to achieve a stable bend: - Using a pair of pliers, grip the cotter pin close to the hole with one hand. - With your other hand, hold the extended end of the pin firmly. - Slightly angle the extended end away from you. - Apply pressure evenly to begin bending the pin. - Keep bending until the pin forms a stable, 90-degree angle to the hole. This stable bend will prevent the cotter pin from rotating or becoming loose during use, providing the necessary stability for its intended purpose. Let's move on to ensuring a tight fit. Ensuring A Tight Fit Ensuring a tight fit is crucial to maintaining the integrity of the cotter pin installation. To achieve this, follow these steps: - Inspect the bent portion of the cotter pin to ensure it is seated correctly against the designated hole. - If not properly aligned, use the pliers to adjust the position until it fits securely. - Make sure the extended end of the pin is not interfering with any nearby components or mechanisms. - Check for any signs of slack or movement in the cotter pin and adjust as necessary to achieve a snug fit. By ensuring a tight fit, you can trust that the cotter pin will remain in place, providing the necessary safety and stability to the repaired or assembled structure.
Testing The Cotter Pin
Testing the cotter pin is an essential step to ensure its effectiveness in securing various mechanical connections. By performing these simple checks, you can guarantee that the cotter pin is correctly installed and will withstand the forces it will encounter during operation. Checking For Movement Before testing the strength of the cotter pin, it is crucial to ensure that there is no excessive movement or play in the connection it secures. Movement can indicate a loose or improperly threaded bolt or nut, which can compromise the cotter pin's effectiveness. To check for movement: - Tightly grip the connected parts and attempt to wiggle them. - If any noticeable movement can be detected, tighten the bolt or nut until the connection becomes secure. - Recheck for movement, ensuring that the connection remains solid without any signs of play. In case the movement persists even after tightening, it may be necessary to evaluate the connection for potential damage or wear. Verifying Its Strength Ensuring the cotter pin is strong enough to withstand the anticipated forces is vital for the longevity and reliability of the connection. Here's how you can verify the strength of the cotter pin: - Check the manufacturer's specifications for the appropriate strength rating of the cotter pin. - Inspect the cotter pin for any signs of damage, such as bends, cracks, or corrosion. - Ensure that the cotter pin is of the correct size and type for the application. - If needed, consult an engineer or the equipment manufacturer for guidance on suitable alternatives. By following these steps and ensuring the cotter pin is securely installed, you can have confidence in its ability to withstand the forces exerted on the connection.
Conclusion
To summarize, installing a cotter pin is a simple process that ensures the safety and stability of various mechanical components. By following the step-by-step guide mentioned earlier, you can easily secure nuts, bolts, and other fixtures in place. Remember to choose the appropriate size and style of the cotter pin, and always double-check your work to guarantee a reliable and durable installation. With practice, you will become proficient in utilizing cotter pins effectively and efficiently. Happy pinning! Read the full article
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