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pcurrytravels · 7 years ago

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Mini-Guide: New Orleans

Good afternoon, y’all! Now, as you all already know, during the last week of May, going into the first week of June 2018, I finally embarked on an excursion to New Orleans. This has long been one of my favorite places in spite of never having actually been there. Suffice to say, the city did not disappoint! I for one am very excited to jot down this guide and some basic tips for you all. I’m even more excited for jotting down my own personal thoughts, but we must get through this first. Anyway, LET’S GO:

The Appeal:

A TON of history, covering a wide-spectrum of topics. A highly-distinctive culture. Fantastic food around every corner (even at convenience stores, believe it or not). Free-flowing liquor to go along with a festive atmosphere. Lots of great music. A number of unorthodox tours and attractions involving topics such as ghosts, cemeteries and voodoo. And just so much more, really. Oh, and need I mention that it’s all very affordable? Especially in comparison to some places (see: California and Vegas)

Top Things To Do:

Sightseeing and Experiences:

- The French Quarter. Because it’s the French Quarter.

- Pick a tour. Any tour (or all of them if you can). There’s tours available for ghosts and hauntings, cemeteries, voodoo, vampires, pirates, neighborhoods, food and culture, etc..... The options are truly endless, and it really is the best way to learn about NOLA.

- Ride all four streetcar lines from start to finish. $1.25 is all you need to tour the city in these historic vehicles.

- If ever you see a second-line or a brass band playing live music, by all means, STOP AND WATCH. Your earbuds will thank you!

- Take a riverboat cruise down the Mississippi for the picturesque scenery, a history lesson from the tour guide on board and the unfortunate sight of still-remaining Hurricane Katrina ruins.

- Try one of a number of famous cocktails and daiquiris; such as Hurricanes, Hand Grenades, Sazerac, Absinthe, etc....

Dining:

Okay, thanks to some conversations I had with the locals, and also being on a budget, I learned that when it comes to trying out New Orleans/South Louisiana specialties, you really can do no wrong. True, there are places that are better than others, but the differences are marginal at best as almost everyone does a pretty good job with the food.

These are my personal suggestions, based on experience, but note that this is merely what I tried and where I had it. By all means, ask the locals when you get there, the vast majority of New Orleanians are very friendly and approachable people:

- Daisy Dukes for Po’Boy sandwiches, Red Beans and Rice, Crawfish Hush Puppies, southern-style breakfast platters and Sweet Tea so good you’ll slap yo mama.

- Cafe Beignet for Beignets, Crawfish Omlettes (sounds weird AF but was actually pretty good, trust me on this one) and Cafe Au Lait. (*Disclaimer: Yes, I am fully aware that Cafe du Monde is THE place to go to for beignets and cafe au lait. However, it was always crowded AF every time we passed by and, not wanting to stand around and wait in that humidity, we opted for this place around the corner instead)

- Cafe Maspero for Gumbo and Jambalaya. Oh, and some stiff Daiquiris too.

- Praline Connection for Pralines.

- Merchant for Crepes.

- PJ’s Coffee for Coffee Granita. (Like a Starbucks Frappuccino but better basically)

- If you take the Creole Queen cruise, the Bread Pudding they serve on board comes highly recommended. Don’t forget to ask for whiskey sauce!

- Brothers Food Mart for Fried Chicken and Natchitoches Meat Pies. Seriously.

- Deanie’s and Oceana Grill for seafood dishes. Now, note I didn’t try either of these places while I was there; however, literally EVERYONE was gushing to me about how great they were, so I’ll be sure to put them on the list for my next visit.

- Oh, speaking of places to eat nearly everyone recommended but I didn’t get around to trying: Mother’s for po’ boy sandwiches and Dooky Chase for soul food. (I need to make a list myself as I definitely plan on going again!)

- It’s also been alleged that Popeye’s in New Orleans tastes better than Popeye’s anywhere else. Although I didn’t check it out for myself, it definitely seems like something to keep in mind.

- Lastly, be sure to try a bag of Zapp’s potato chips.

Neighborhoods To Explore:

- The French Quarter. Pour it up and laissez les bon temps rouler of course, but be sure to learn about the history, admire the Spanish Colonial architecture (contrary to popular belief, hardly any of the buildings in the French Quarter are actually French; it’s a bit of a long story), poke in and out of the eclectic range of shops, stop and listen to the second line, get your fortune read, dodge vampires and search for ghosts while you do.

- Central Business District, or the “American Quarter” if you will. While only physically separated from the FQ by a wide avenue known as Canal Street, in terms of history, culture and architecture, it’s almost a world apart. Now, it may look just like the downtown area of any other American city, but don’t let the generic appearance fool you. There are still a number of superb dining, nightlife and shopping options to be found here; many just as authentically Creole as the FQ. This is also where I would suggest staying if you’re in need of more modern accommodations, as the hotels in the French Quarter are VERY old-fashioned.

- Warehouse District. Like the CBD, only even more local and laid-back. Despite it’s unassuming appearance (well, unassuming for New Orleans anyway), a number of museums and historical landmarks can be found in this area. Oh, and given that this area also doubles as NOLA’s arts district, the artistic and cultural offerings in this neighborhood are nothing to sneeze at either.

- Marigny. Like the French Quarter, but with cheaper prices for everything, slightly newer French and Spanish Colonial buildings, a quirkier, counterculture-oriented vibe and atmosphere, a more eclectic range of nightlife offerings, and less tourists. If you want so see how New Orleanians really get down, then you’ve come to the right place. Be sure to tread carefully however, as there’s some blocks in this area that aren’t very pleasant.

- Treme. If Harlem had a southern equivalent, this would be it. Originally the part of town (or “Faubourg” as the French colonists called it) set aside for free people of color, it has a rich and storied history, what with being the birthplace of Jazz, the nucleus of Afro-Creole culture, the home of Congo Square and the location of St. Louis Cemeteries #1 and #2 respectively. It’s a shame that the area is also a tad dangerous; so while I highly recommend paying your respects at the aforementioned historical sites and appreciating the numerous shotgun houses which dot the landscape, be very mindful of your surroundings; and avoid going at night altogether.

- The Garden District. Across Jackson Ave., you’ll likely notice that things start to look less like Havana and more like Savannah, Georgia. That’s because you’re entering the former domain of wealthy, 19th-century Protestant, Anglo-Americans who had chosen to move to a Catholic, French/Spanish Creole city but wanted nothing to do with the Catholic, French/Spanish Creole people and culture (In regards to their logic? Your guess is as good as mine). Thankfully, all of those snobs are long gone. Instead, should you decide to explore this neighborhood, you’ll be greeted to a number of large and stately homes with adjoining slave quarters from the Antebellum era, most of which fronted by, well, gardens. It also plays host to a much more understated and low-key, but still fairly active, nightlife and dining scene.

- Uptown/Audubon/Carrollton. Beyond the Garden District, with the St. Charles Streetcar bisecting things in the middle, you’ll be treated to this quasi-suburban respite near the parish line, upriver from the hustle and bustle of the French Quarter and CBD (Carrollton actually began its existence as an entirely separate suburb if that says anything). It’s here where things start to look more “normal,” albeit still retaining the NOLA flair with French/Creole naming conventions in use and drive-thru daiquiri bars (that’s not a typo). A number of worthwhile spots for dining, drinking and/or shopping can still be found in spite of the somewhat more modern architecture. Even then, Tulane and Loyola universities are both wonderful sights to behold with their Gothic architecture, and Audubon Park is quite lovely as well.

General Tips:

Packing:

Okay, I will admit this is a place where I totally screwed up. Although I was aware that New Orleans is notorious for it’s humidity, I figured that, being from Las Vegas and all (another place that gets notoriously hot), I should have no problem adjusting right? Oh boy, how wrong I was. The heat of a subtropical swamp is an entirely different animal from the heat of a semi-arid desert.

Make sure you bring and/or buy a deodorant that you are 100% sure will work for you. Better yet, get an antiperspirant. I learned my lesson about this the hard way. Also: talculm powder and/or powder spray, anti-chafing/anti-friction sticks and/or gels, shoe/foot odor products and wet wipes/moist towelettes. Either pack these things beforehand or find a store to buy them at when you arrive. Trust me, you will need them.

Now, while I did pack sun care and protection items, going off of my experience, it turns out I didn’t really need them as the sun wasn’t the problem there. So I would suggest skipping that unless you plan on taking a dip in the pool. One thing you DO need however is insect repellent. If it wasn’t for the chemicals, I would have kissed my bottle of OFF. I saw close to a hundred mosquitoes, and wasn’t bitten a single time. Thank the lord. I also had a cooling towel and a portable fan, neither of which helped very much, but anything to keep yourself cool, right?

Another place where I screwed up is the clothes. Not only is NOLA culture VERY casual but it’s such a hot, humid climate that unless you plan on dining and/or drinking at somewhere on the more upscale side of things no one really cares how you dress. Light materials and colors, loose-fitting items, shorts, shorts, SHORTS and a basic pair of sneakers and/or sandals are really all you need.*

*Note that my trip to New Orleans was also at the beginning of hurricane season, so my packing tips are largely based off of that time of year. I’m sure another time of year would be a different story.

Weather:

This is a city that was literally built on top of a swamp, so yes, it’s VERY humid. Now, temperature-wise, it never got any higher than 90 degrees when I was there, but the humidity adds about ten to fifteen extra degrees so it doesn’t really matter.

I suggest the following things for dealing with the weather in New Orleans: The minute you check-in to your room, find the nearest store, buy a pack of water and immediately throw the bottles in your room’s fridge and/or ice bucket. You will need them. There’s also no shame in buying a bottle for one or two dollars from one of the self-licensed vendors that can be spotted near all of the tourist attractions (avoid anyone charging more than two dollars however).

“Cooling” items (like cooling towels or portable fans) come highly recommended. Stay in the shade when you can and duck into an air-conditioned space for a few minutes if it all becomes too much for you. Given that it isn’t the type of heat that warms up the air, hand fans really do come in handy. Oh, and no one will look at you funny should you decide to use an umbrella to shield yourself from the sunlight. It is the south after all.

Safety:

Okay, as rich, beautiful and magical New Orleans may be, it’s far from a safe city. Granted, the French Quarter, CBD, Warehouse District, Marigny, Garden District, Audubon and Uptown areas are all pretty safe in the daytime, aside from a select few pockets you wouldn’t really have a good reason to be in anyway. It’s after dark where you’ll be treated to a much different story.

There is safety in numbers. After dark, be sure you are accompanied by at least one other person at all times. Two or more is better. I learned this the hard way by foolishly taking a late-night walk in the area around my hotel in the CBD on my first night there. I had assumed all was fine until I ended up getting verbally assaulted. Thankfully, nothing more came out of the incident aside from some empty threats but still.

If the location of your accommodation is more than a half-mile away and/or you are significantly inebriated, avoid walking or taking public transit to your room at night. Either flag down a taxi or utilize a rideshare service such as Uber or Lyft. NOLA is such a compact city that the fare is unlikely to be very much wherever you are (well, provided you’re not in Metairie or the West Bank).

Be responsible with personal belongings. Keep wallets, cell phones and whatnot in front pockets, hold any purse or bag very close to your person (getting a travel pouch, money belt, passport bag and/or fanny pack would be a very good idea actually) and avoid walking around with an excessive amount of shopping bags. Pay extra close attention if walking on a crowded sidewalk or riding in a packed bus and/or streetcar.

One particularly strange phenomenon in New Orleans is that of shoe hustlers. These people will approach you talking about how nice your shoes are before insisting on making a bet that they can guess where you got them at (key word being “at” and not “from”). Just say “they’re on my feet” and keep it moving. There’s a number of panhandlers and beggars, but most of them are harmless. There’s a few that may cuss you out if you say no or ignore them but that’s about it. Oh, and whatever you do, DO NOT walk around wearing Mardi Gras beads, especially outside of the “Upper” French Quarter (just ask a local what that means when you get there). You’re pretty much asking to get mugged by doing so.

Transportation:

Okay, this is where things get a bit messy. The location of the New Orleans metro area can be described as very awkward at best, being sandwiched on a curvy strip of land between a river and a lake and all. Thanks to this unusual geography, they really had no choice but to place the Louis Armstrong International Airport in the far-flung suburb of Kenner in Jefferson Parish. There’s also no public transit access to speak of aside from two bus lines with unreliable and infrequent service. Oh dear.

I mean, you could just take a cab.....for a set price of $36 no matter what part of town you’re going to. Or you could do Uber/Lyft.....for about the same price (I thought the whole point of rideshare services was to be cheaper than taxis?). And then you have airport shuttles........which are even pricier. You could rent a car too.....provided you’re willing to navigate 18th and 19th century streets designed for horse-pulled carriages before hacking off one of your arms in order to pay for valet and/or parking.

Okay, anyway, more about the airport-serving bus lines: As already stated, there’s two of them; the 202 Airport Express under NORTA for $1.50 and the E-2 under Jefferson Transit for $2.00. Both of which pick you up at the airport and drop you off in the vicinity of the Superdome in the CBD. From there, you’re on your own. Thankfully, our hotel was in walking distance from the end of the line so having to transfer wasn’t an issue. If you do need to transfer to another bus line however, keep in mind that you can’t transfer from the E-2 to any buses in New Orleans due to it operating under the agency of a separate parish.

Ironically, the E-2 is also the one of the two which runs on frequent service (frequent meaning once per hour). The 202 literally only runs five times a day. Seriously. Apparently, it’s primary purpose is to serve airport employees (because everyone there must work the same shift(s), right?). Thankfully, on the day we arrived, we literally came just in time for one of its five daily trips. Now if only we were so lucky on our last day.

Long story short, for some reason the E-2 doesn’t go past the parish line on weekends. We had no choice but to take the E-2 on the day we left as the 202 would have either brought us to the airport way too early or we would have missed our flight thanks to the five-trips-a-day nonsense. We took a long bus ride to the county line, only for the bus to show up and leave a whole thirty minutes before it was supposed to. We ended up having no choice but to share an Uber (that was strangely the same price as it would have been from our hotel despite being picked up at a location WAY closer to the airport) with a nice couple who were just as lost and confused as we were that morning. So, in all honesty, I would suggest holding on to an extra $80 for a taxi and/or Uber/Lyft ride to and from the airport. You’ll save yourself a lot of hassle and confusion by doing so.

As for getting around the city itself? Well, my mom and I paid $9 each for 3-day Jazzy passes and I’m still not sure if we really needed them. Given our hotel’s location in the CBD, we were in walking distance to almost everything. I guess that’s just the beauty of being in a city that was almost entirely designed and developed before the Model T was even a twinkle in Henry Ford’s eye. Oh, and the public transit in the area leaves quite a bit to be desired.

New Orleans’s public transit agency, NORTA, provides bus and streetcar service and, based on my observations anyway, was barely useful. I saw a number of bus stops, and would wait at them for about fifteen or twenty minutes, only to start walking and then see the bus show up just as I had made it to my destination. The bus service is 1.) infrequent and 2.) has the most peculiar routing I’ve ever seen (then again the city of New Orleans itself has the most peculiar street grid I’ve ever seen so that’s probably just a given). So I wouldn’t recommend getting around by the bus, unless you’re staying somewhere like Mid-City, Carrollton or deep in Uptown or the Garden District (which I also wouldn’t recommend, especially not on a first trip).

Now, the streetcars on the other hand, on top of being an essential part of the NOLA experience, akin to San Francisco’s cable cars, were much more useful. The Canal, Riverfront and St. Charles lines in particular pass by just about every attraction and/or point of interest and, although the French Quarter is a highly walkable area, the Riverfront line is very useful if you want to give your feet a break when going from one side of it to the other.

All that being said, it isn’t what I’d call reliable. Being operated by overhead, electrical wires, it’s very susceptible to the elements. There was one day of my trip where it rained, with the streetcars going out of order as a result. Of course, that says nothing of how easily a route can be put off by something as minor as a car not being parallel-parked correctly. Oh, and did I mention that they also get jam-packed? Well not the Rampart/Loyola line, but aside from Louis Armstrong Park, the Superdome and the Amtrak/Greyhound station, that one doesn’t really pass by anything worthwhile anyway.

Taking all of this into account, while I still highly recommend riding the streetcar at least once if only for the experience, the ideal way to get around New Orleans is to WALK. Its compact, European-style urban layout makes this very easy. This also lends itself to low fares for taxis and Uber/Lyft rides. You can rent a bike as well if that’s up your alley. But, again, I wouldn’t suggest driving at all.

Hours of Operation:

This is another area where the city is in a bit of flux. There’s many things that are open 24 hours. There are others that close up early. Most of the drugstores and convenience stores are open 24 hours. A lot of the bars and lounges in and around the French Quarter and CBD open up as early as 10 AM and don’t close shop until 2 AM or later, with a select few being open 24 hours as well. After all, there is no last call or dry hour in the state of Louisiana.

With everything else, it widely varies. For example, a number of attractions don’t open until 10 or 11 AM in the morning only to close by 4 PM. That’s right, they’re only open five to six hours. As we had the 2-Day New Orleans Power Pass, we had to rush through a lot of the attractions (we actually went to the Audubon Aquarium twenty minutes before it closed, not that I really regret having to speed through that one, but more on that later) and after the end of day two barely even took part in half of the listed attractions. So if you want to do any of this stuff, be sure to plan accordingly.

Thankfully, food is very easy to find at all times of day. A lot of restaurants in the vicinity of the French Quarter and/or CBD in particular don’t close down until sometime between midnight and 2 AM. Most cafes open up between 5 and 7 AM. And, given that this is an area rife with hungry party-goers and drunks, 24 hour restaurants are not at all uncommon.

Money-Related:

Out of all the places I’ve been to, I can confidently say New Orleans is the cheapest. There is a lot that can be done on very little money. A disproportionate amount of travel guides and programs on the Travel Channel will insist that you dine at places like Commander’s Palace or Brennan’s, but the fact that I had a fantastic meal of fried chicken, meat pies and french fries for less than $10 from a CORNER STORE should be enough to indicate that one can easily experience this city on a budget.

Be sure to keep a decent amount of cash on you at all times, as there’s a shockingly large amount of businesses throughout the entire city that don’t take plastic. ATM’s are also plentiful but I would suggest finding one compatible with your bank as the fees can be quite high.

In Orleans Parish, all goods are subject to a 9% sales tax, including groceries. The latter was a shock for me, being from a state where groceries aren’t taxed. If you happen to be from a state that doesn’t tax groceries, keep this in mind so there’s no surprises.

As far as tipping goes, 15 to 20 percent is the standard for restaurant and bar tabs; unless of course you didn’t open a tab at the bar. In that case, tip $1.00 per drink. It is also nice to keep a couple of dollar bills on hand at all times to tip the numerous brass bands, street performers and tour guides that can be found all over town, but be sure to do so with discretion.

Miscellaneous:

Restrooms can be very difficult to find. Wherever it is you are eating or drinking, be sure to use their restroom before you leave because it’s probably gonna be a while before you find another one.

Be sure to pack and/or buy allergy and sinus medicine, or otherwise your nasal passages will not give you a break here.

You also may have been confused by some of the terminology used here, so let me explain:

In the state of Louisiana, counties are called “parishes.” You see, when modern-day Louisiana was absorbed into the U.S.A. back in 1803 (I point out the “modern” part because the territory known as Louisiana was actually much larger back then), there was a massive state of flux going on in regards to national, ethnic and cultural identity that arguably lasted well into the 20th century. The fact that the state’s government insists on referring to its divisions as parishes and not counties is likely a lingering sign of this period.

Contrary to popular belief, Cajun and Creole are not the same, and although there are Cajun elements present, New Orleans actually falls in line with the latter culture. The reality of the matter is, Cajuns are the descendants of French Canadians that were exiled from Acadia (modern-day Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and Maine), most of whom live in a region known as Acadiana which is west of New Orleans. Louisiana Creoles on the other hand are the descendants of anyone who settled in Louisiana when it was still under French and Spanish rule. Nowadays, the label “Creole” is usually attributed to those of French/African/Spanish/Native American admixture (likely descendants of the fairly large class of free people-of-color that existed in the area prior to the Civil War), but it can actually apply to anyone whose roots in the region can be traced to a time before the early-19th century.

So yes, these are two different ethnic/cultural groups, with much different histories; it would be wise not to confuse the two. There is also a difference between their cooking as well, but it’s a bit......complicated to explain as they have grown SO similar over time. Especially when you consider that very few people outside of Louisiana can even be bothered with the difference in the first place, essentially forcing the Creoles to pander to the stereotype.

Thanks to the city’s unusual geography (now I understand why it’s called the “Crescent City”), it’s futile to describe anything as being North/South/West/East (example: the so-called West Bank is actually located east of the city). Instead, NOLA operates on its own set of directions. This is something else I would just ask the locals about, as I still don’t quite get it myself.

Lastly, here’s a handy guide on how to pronounce street names and other things. Trust me, you will need this. Oh, and remember, the streetcar is to always be called the streetcar. Ask for the “trolley” and the locals will have no idea what you’re talking about.

Well, that concludes my mini-guide for New Orleans. This is a place I honestly think everyone should visit at least once. In the coming weeks, I’ll be detailing more of my personal thoughts and experiences. Until then.

#new orleans #travel guide #louisiana #Southern U.S.#U.S. Gulf Coast

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