#Vogueparisoriginal

[professorpski]

Shifting Emphasis Downward: Vogue 1572 from the 1960s

You can’t really see what is happening in the photograph of this A-line dress by the House of Patou (Jean Patou himself died in 1936) because it is all in black. In fact, the emphasis of the black version is near the face because of the large sparkly necklace and earrings worn by the model. But take a look at the sketches done up in pink and in white and you realize that the designer had abandoned the Dress Doctors’ art principlr which said keep the emphasis of garment design on the face.

Despite the big brooches on the pink and white versions, the lines of the garment on the front of this dress are all down at the lower hip. Welt pockets, a bow, piecing and gathers are all down there and except for the skirt overlay which creates a flap from the center low hip down to the hem.   Although the look implies a two-piece garment because of the piecing from the bodice to the skirt, it is actually one piece. It is an awful lot of effort to bring attention down to the lower hip line. 

The whole garment is an awful lot of effort as all couture garments would be. The entire dress has an underlining, probably in order to stiffen it to keep the A-line shape. The center front of the bodice has a stay which echoes its shape and which then is sewn to the gathers of the skirt at center, all in order to allow the fashion fabric bodice piece to move freely unattached above the gathers. Yes, a lot of effort to make the dress look like two pieces. In fact, I suspect when this dress was in motion, onlookers’ eyes would be puzzled enough-- two pieces? --one piece?-- to dwell on that area of the dress while trying to figure out what was going on. Then, bound buttonholes button up the back where the two-piece illusion is discarded. There is an inner belt at the waistline which is attached to the seam allowance and then closes with a hook and eye inside the dress at the back.

Which brings me to the effort of getting this dress on. You would have to close the waistline belt behind your back, and then button up the dress behind your back. Only wearers of the original, who would have a maid to ask for help, or dressmaker with a spouse at hand, could get this dress on easily. 

How fancy would it be? For day time or nighttime? Hard to say as the fabric suggestions run from satin and silk to cottons, linens, and woolens, but notice that the two sketches also have these women wearing gloves, a sign of a dressier occasion. The 1960s saw a number of experiments moving the emphasis in garments far down from the face, but I can’t say I am a big fan of the effort. 

[artanddesignmatters]

1. Just add boots and a cowgirl hat! A perfect dress for next year’s “in person” Cattle Baron’s Ball in Houston, Texas or any other western themed gala.  Slip into this beautiful vintage one of a kind handmade VOGUE PARIS ORIGINAL dress with chocolate brown and ivory colored fabric with the original VOGUE PARIS ORIGINAL tag sewn in by its talented maker.  It’s meticulously sewn ….even the zipper pull has been covered with material.   2. Giuliana Cohen Camerino  (1920 – 2010) won a Neiman Marcus Fashion Award in 1956 in recognition of the success and influence of her handbags. Camerino  was an Italian fashion designer who founded the Roberta di Camerino fashion house in Venice in 1945, the only major Italian fashion brand to be based in the historic seafaring and trading city.   3. Accessorize your Asian themed space with this fine example of the Song Dynasty style Cizhou-ware ceramic pillow with marks of the Museum of the American China Trade and American Heritage Museum Collection, an association first created in 1964.   #CattleBaronsBall #RobertadiCamerino #Cizhouware #VogueParisOriginal #VintageDress #VintageHandbag #VintageDecor #vintagedress #letsrodeo https://www.instagram.com/p/CiDfugNJ-Ho/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

[ckrose17]

So good I had to share! Check out all the items I'm loving on @Poshmarkapp from @classyvintage112 #poshmark #fashion #style #shopmycloset #vogueparisoriginal #vintage #jjt: https://bnc.lt/focc/yr0gdP8s9L

[aleyalehmannbench]

Planning for October shoot with @macjb__ and @pattykirshner and @alebstyle at @industrycity with a little help from my friends @bandjfabrics @hasselblad_official #vogueparisoriginal (at Industry City Studios)

[ninamercervintage]

YSL vintage sewing pattern. #ninamercervintage #vintageYSL #vogueparisoriginal

[artanddesignmatters]

1. Just add boots and a cowgirl hat! A perfect dress for next year’s “in person” Cattle Baron’s Ball in Houston, Texas or any other western themed gala.  Slip into this beautiful vintage one of a kind handmade VOGUE PARIS ORIGINAL dress with chocolate brown and ivory colored fabric with the original VOGUE PARIS ORIGINAL tag sewn in by its talented maker.  It’s meticulously sewn ….even the zipper pull has been covered with material.   2. Giuliana Cohen Camerino  (1920 – 2010) won a Neiman Marcus Fashion Award in 1956 in recognition of the success and influence of her handbags. Camerino  was an Italian fashion designer who founded the Roberta di Camerino fashion house in Venice in 1945, the only major Italian fashion brand to be based in the historic seafaring and trading city.   3. Accessorize your Asian themed space with this fine example of the Song Dynasty style Cizhou-ware ceramic pillow with marks of the Museum of the American China Trade and American Heritage Museum Collection, an association first created in 1964.    #CattleBaronsBall #RobertadiCamerino #Cizhouware #VogueParisOriginal #VintageDress #VintageHandbag #VintageDecor https://www.instagram.com/p/CfDPPkOMOpA/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

[artanddesignmatters]

Vintage At-Home Dress from the VOGUE PARIS ORIGINAL LANVIN Pattern 2576 ca. 1970’s   Beautiful vintage one of a kind handmade VOGUE PARIS ORIGINAL dress with chocolate brown and ivory colored fabric with the original VOGUE PARIS ORIGINAL tag sewn in by its talented maker. It’s meticulously sewn ….even the zipper pull has been covered with material.   Lanvin – Misses’ At-Home Dress with jewel neckline and asymmetrical front and back seaming, fitted bodice, full circle skirt, full length sleeves and left side hem slit and a self-tie belt.   This dress pattern was featured in Vogue International Pattern Book August/September 1971.   Approximate measurements of garment:   Keep in mind that the measurements below are the measurements of the garment, not your body; so your body MUST have smaller measurements than the garment measurements below in order for it to fit properly.   Bust: 35” Waist: 25” Shoulder Length: 22.5” Shoulder: 13” Length: 56 Belt: 57.5” long Very good vintage condition with minor signs of wear. No fabric tag. Fabric is thin and lightweight. #LANVIN #LANVINDress #VogueParisOriginal #MaxiDress #VintageDress #VintageFashion #BrownDress #VintageVogue #VogueVintage #HandMadeDress #HandMadeVintage #VintageHandMade #HandMadeVintageDress #HandMade #vintage #vintage70sdress #70sfashion #truevintagedress #1970sdress #70sdress #sustainablefashion #VoguePattern #vintagedressforsale https://www.instagram.com/p/B2iXxeUArF3/?igshid=t18hnuxwj5ba

[aleyalehmannbench]

Lemon-ice cotton organdy dresses for next shoot. #vogueparisoriginal 2040 ca. 1970. @bandjfabrics (at Industry City Studios)