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voidsettle · 6 years ago

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Summer Junction: Small Balkans

May-June 2018

Chasing the last-August experience of a region-wide country run, we started planning for our next trip, something southern this time. We wanted some history from the old towns, scorching heat of the sun over bright sea, and long vistas of the mountain ranges. Montenegro became the basis for the plan. But why settle for one if you can have more? We were going wild.

Sveti Stefan, Budva, Montenegro

Full 2 weeks were spent in careful preparations. We were throwing in Hungary and Serbia before and Bosnia and Croatia in between. The original plan grew from a tour around one country to five, some of them added (almost) against our wills. We had to fly through Budapest - our airlines had rather cheap tickets to the destination city. From there, it was hit-and-miss travel by every kind of transport you'd imagine. Bus? Plenty. Car? Repeat the hitchhiking experience. Train? Make it two.

First Stop: Budapest, Hungary

Fisherman's Bastion over Danube, Budapest, Hungary

Arriving at Budapest, we had several hours - it was but a short stop before the night train to Serbia.

Whenever I'm in Budapest, there are three things I'm looking forward to: enjoy the vista from the Fisherman's Bastion, visit Szechenyi Thermal Baths and have a taste of Hungarian Tokay.

Last time when I was in Hungary, I got lost somewhere in Pest and ended up deciphering another tourist's instructions in German (which was mutually poor but delivered fun experience nonetheless). This time I finally got to creating a mind map of major sites and attractions. No that I can definitely find Budapest Opera if left at the central train station, but a can guess the general direction at the very least.

Fun at Fisherman's Bastion

Besides, the good thing about traveling on your own (without a guide and a group of whiny tourists tagging along) is that you achieve the level of liberating enlightenment never to be experienced in your own country. It usually takes several days for this skill to kick in. I was all the more surprised as this expanding feeling bubbled in my chest as I descended into Budapest subway.

While in Budapest, you absolutely must visit one of the thermal baths, the relaxing and soothing experience best after a long walk around the city.

I personally prefer the ones in Szechenyi Park because of the sheer scope and variety - inside the pavilions, under the open sky, cooling, warm, hot - whatever you heart desires. Just visiting one by one will take around 2 hours, so better come with some spare time on your hands.

I must say, the Hungarian capital was truly underestimated by me. I definitely plan on going back and add a couple more to-dos to my usual itinerary: visit the Opera, roam through the halls of National Gallery, have a slow stroll on Margaret Island, and taste much more local delicacies.

What to see:

Fisherman's Bastion

Matthias Church

Gellert Hill and the Citadella

Hungarian National Gallery at Buda Castle

Hungarian Parliament

Szechenyi Chain Bridge and its tongueless lions

Margit hid (Margaret Bridge)

Ruins of the Fransciscan church on Margaret Island

Szechenyi Thermal Bath

What to eat:

goulash (thick paprika soup/stew)

libamaj (goose liver)

fried duck

chicken paprikas with dumplings

halaszle (fish soup with paprika and tomato sauce)

langos (basically fast food)

kremes (cream cake)

somloi galuska (biscuit with custard)

chestnut puree

kurtoskalacs (vanilla and citrus pastry)

Tokay wine

palinka (fruit brandy)

Second Stop: Beograd, Serbia

View on the junction of Sava and Danube from Belgrade Fortress, Beograd, Serbia

First things first, a cry of pain to Serbian trains: they are immensely, unbelievably hideous. But such fun!

Truly, after Ukrainian railroads I believed I've seen it all - oh how thoroughly mistaken I was! The compartments are shabby and worn out, nearly everything is torn or broken, just on this side of usability, the wall facing the passageway is made of plexiglass delivering a (not so) beautiful view of your sleeping face to anyone happening to pass by. And the cherry on the top: they have four (which is standard for Ukraine and, I believe, most of Eastern European countries) and six (?!) seat compartments. Preordering the tickets, we were so curious that we couldn't miss the opportunity to travel in a six seat one (aside from it being slightly cheaper).

Three floors of the six-seat compartment on a Serbian train from Budapest

What it meant on practice was literally three floors. The first of which basically was a seat standing on the floor (when sitting, my knees were before my eyes), and the last had only around half a meter to the ceiling. Basically no storage place. It was truly scary sleeping both on and underneath these seats.

I keep wondering if we got lucky that the two middle seats were (obviously) non-functional, so we only had two other poor unfortunate souls to share this sorry excuse of a compartment. On the other hand, the experience was so bizarre and unique that I couldn't keep myself from laughing hysterically. Not sure any of my companions comprehended my mirth.

On the brighter note, Beograd is one of those cities that don't care the least for you as a tourist. One day is pretty much enough to see everything there is to see, the major attraction being, of course, the Belgrade Fortress with its rich history protecting the city (thus the clash of architectural styles), vast park area below leading your eye to the joint of Danube and Sava rivers, and quaint winding passages that lead to different courts, half-hidden castles and fortifications.

Beograd Fortress

Lost somewhere in its area, I caught this wonderfully serene moment of pre-summer heat hammering down the irregular stone-paved trails, deafening crickets and the dizzying smell of grasses and red poppies (that are all over the place, magical beyond belief).

The city shows itself. Walking from the fortress down Knez Mihailova Street, you find yourself at the National Museum. A little to the South, ruins left after the NATO bombing stay proud in the middle of the bustling city. And then there's the Cathedral of Saint Sava, quite the monumental construction to mark the grand aspirations of Serbian nation. It is one of the largest churches in the world, and one that is still being built, starting in 1935. That tells you something about the nation.

If you don't have much time, take the round tram #2 to see all the major sites in city center. You'll miss something, for sure, but it's a good way to start your acquaintance.

And don't forget to get yourself familiar with the people - they're quite the friendly type. My friend's shoe tore at the most inopportune moment, and we were looking for something that'd help keep it together. Asking in one of the shops where we could buy glue, the owner not only told us how to get to the closest place but he personally walked us there. At yet another instance, a woman we asked directions from spent quite some time (and probably missed her bus) to make sure we know how to get to the Cathedral of Saint Sava. Using Serbian and gestures; pure incomprehensible joy.

What to see:

Beograd Fortress

Knez Mihailova Street and the pedestrian area

Ruins of Yugoslav General Staff from 1999 NATO bombing

National Museum (with one if not the largest Impressionist painting collection in Europe)

St Mark's Church

Cathedral of Saint Sava

Church of Saint Alexander of Neva

What to eat:

cevapi/cevapcici (regional delicacy, variations met throughout the Balkans - basically grilled meat in flatbread with chopped onions)

kajmak (cheese)

Karadordeva snicla (meat stuffed with cheese)

sarma (meat rolled in sour cabbage leaves)

musaka (potato and meat casserole)

ajvar (vegetable side dish)

pljeskavica (meat in flatbread)

cvarci (fried pork rinds)

rakia (fruit brandy; do you start noticing patterns yet?)

Third Stop: Underground Train and First Glance at Montenegro

Ruins of Bedem Castle, Niksic, Montenegro

Unlike traditional tourists, we decided to take a whole day off sight-seeing to indulge in traveling at its utmost. Moreover, the whole detour to Serbia was solely for the purpose of catching this train: Beograd, Serbia to Bar, Montenegro. We wanted to get our hands and eyes on mountains as soon as possible - and boy, did we get our fill!

If you get a chance to travel from Belgrade to Montenegro by train, by all means do. You won't regret a moment of it.

Train Beograd, Serbia - Bar, Montenegro

Actually, before the trip, I had my doubts: spending the whole day sitting in train, with nothing but observing natural beauties for over 10 hours; I thought we'd be bored to death by the end of hour 2. I didn't factor in the underground traveling - all in all, after spending the lion's share of the trip counting and noting the time, our route amounted to nearly 200 tunnels and almost hour and a half under ground in Serbia alone.

The longest tunnel is nearly 5 km long. I even counted the speed of underground travel - approximately 15 mph, a lower speed due to the danger of high mountain travel. Curiously, in Montenegro, the speed in tunnels was considerably higher, even though we didn't manage to uncover the reason.

One more thing to note is the considerably higher quality of Montenegrin trains. Compared to that taking us from Budapest to Beograd, this was nearly comfortable. I don't know the reason, but air-con was only available in one carriage (coincidentally, the one we were in), and it wasn't shying away from its function. I was freezing by the end of hour one, and went out in search of something to warm up. In other carriages, people were clustering by the windows, catching air, vistas and smoking.

Smoking right under the sign 'Smoking prohibited'

Thus, I anchored myself in the buffet car (calling it 'restaurant' wouldn't do; they offered no food) with a permanent cup of coffee before me. This was my little yet unforgettable time - the amalgam of beautiful mountain ranges flashing by outside the window, hot coffee and a cozy book that I prudently brought along. Light chatter of the trainmen fought with cigarette smoke in the air, the rattling of the train creating snug and quaint ambiance.

We arrived to Podgorica after sunset. The first glance at Montenegro delivered the unique feeling of living on the roofs - the room we were staying at had an exit right near the red shingles of the neighbor house. While I was having cup of tea before bed, a woman casually strolled on top of the roof nearby to hang the clothes to dry.

Despite the status of the capital and the largest city in Montenegro, Podgorica more often that not creates the feeling of a medium-sized deeply provincial town. Hidden behind the mountainous hills, far from the seaside, the city doesn't enjoy the influx of tourists during summer seasons but also boasts a warmer climate in winter.

And so we followed the route inland, leaving the Adriatic for the last part of our journey. My friend, the terrifyingly stubborn woman, woke me up at 4 in the morning to catch the train to Ostrog.

If I was to advise for Ostrog, I would not. And I'm unlikely to repeat the experience in the future.

Ostrog, Montenegro

That was one of a hellish trip for me - high up in the mountain, hides a Christian Orthodox church shrine. Sounds better than it is in reality. Well. It does look nice, I must admit - the chambers cut out in the sheer rock and all. But I'd argue not worth the effort put in.

Given I'm not religious and a late-sleeper, the way up the mountain trail early in the morning thoroughly irritated me. My mood didn't better at seeing how the 'religious' folks arrived right by the entrance in buses and cars - the hypocritical bastards. I guess we had a fight with my friend, who is much more loyal toward Christian religion and keeping faces. The things we give away.

Besides, the timing was really off - the vistas from high up the mountain are pretty bland early in the morning. The angle of the sun was just not right. The whole place in the morning looks like a refugee camp, with dirty mats and plaids for those willing to spend the chilly night on the monastery grounds. The whole place feels weird.

Camping outside the Ostrog monastery, 900 m above sea level

I was much more cheerful as we were leaving the damned-- I mean, sacred place.

By this time, we were at our basic premise: high in the mountains, half an hour by car to our interim destination, several hours before anything goes the way we need, and a choice between astonishingly hideous weather and heavy backpacks. There was that trip to Crete where we were basically blind and death from the wind, cursing the moment we decided to go through the mountains on foot.

Our fallback is hitch-hiking fellow travelers to take pity on us and give us a lift. This time, we were picked up by a nice couple from Belarus who brought us right to Niksic. Unexpectedly, the city appeared more interesting than we imagined. I loved the ruins of the local castle. At one moment, the atmosphere was distinctly medieval - the lush green pastures outside the half-preserved walls, the grey grim limestone and delicate, full of color flowerheads taking over the reign in this place. That glimpse of centuries long gone sent a shiver down my spine, and was gone as fast as it appeared.

Bedem castle, Niksic

Today, the castle ruins serve as a concert hall for the local youth - naturally, the larger part of the stone is covered in graffiti, and we've met a couple of sturdy young boys at the foot of the castle, unloading what looked like heavy sound equipment boxes. We had to sacrifice half a bottle of water as an entrance fee.

After an ice-cream and a meditation over the neat and apparently old cemetery, we headed for the bus station to catch a ride to Sarajevo. And, oh, did our adventures only begin!

The same way as I was rumbling about Serbian trains - one should be aware of the buses in Montenegro.

The worst part? Not enough seats. The bus we got was tiny, more like a minivan. We were forced to take our bags inside and to stand the whole way to Bosnia (2.5 hours to the border, same to Sarajevo). I wasn't even trying, sitting down in the aisle as soon as we started off. I got through the first hour alright, catching a casual conversation with a guy from Albania sitting beside me. And then the air stopped circulating (at least where I was sitting), and I don't remember most of the way to the Bosnian border.

I got a seat somewhere along the ride. When we arrived in Sarajevo, I was so tired that it was nearly blissful - I don't think I was the slightest bit worried when we got the message from our to-be host that we couldn't be accommodated at their place that night. Fortunately, we caught decent free Wi-Fi in the middle of the Bosnian capital. Last thing I actually remember from that day is reconciling with my friend over the religious matters and thinking before falling into darkness that nothing could surprise me during this trip anymore.

Descending the Ostrog mountain, panorama dipped in morning haze

What to see:

Sahat kula, Podgorica (clock tower)

Ostrog (take this up at your own risk, and, by gods, do not go on foot, you won't be getting out)

Church of Sv Vasilje, Niksic

Bedem castle, Niksic

What to eat:

prshut (dried meat)

cevapcici

pleskavitsa/roshtil (fried and grilled meat)

sopsky salat (vegetable salad with cheese)

ribla chorba (fish soup)

Negusi cheese

meat burek with yogurt

sarma

Vranac (red wine) and Krstach (white wine)

Niksicko beer

desserts: baklava, tulumba, shampita, vanilice, padobranci

Fourth Stop: Two Pearls of Bosnia and Herzegovina

Breakfast at panorama over Sarajevo, Ispod Grada, Bosnia and Herzegovina

For Sarajevo, I was really hyped even before the trip. The primary reason was, of course, the history of this place. Point of focus: the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sophie triggering World War I. Time: June 28, 1914, 10 in the morning. Place: Latin Bridge.

As I was fangirling over the epic episode, I should also mention the sheer delight of this city. Sarajevo is filled with the distinctly Turkish ambiance (visiting Istanbul three months prior, I could not ignore the similarities between the two cities) - and yet it's a European capital. It has the tiny street teahouses with old men chatting and smoking their days away, muezzins shouting early in the morning, heavily clothed women and bubbling Eastern bazaars. But it also has eclectic architecture, Mediterranean cobbled streets flowing down the mountainous hills to the Miljacka river, and 15th to 19th century Christian churches. Starting at the White Fortress crowning the city, we roamed down the winding streets to the river bank, than had a real breakfast in the labyrinth of Bascarsija (I'm ashamed I still cannot pronounce that) and then made a stop for coffee at Cajdzinica Dzirlo.

Cajdzinica Dzirlo and it's host

I don't usually give personal opinions of places to eat - they change to fast, and TripAdvisor still does it better. But this one is the number and a renown site of its own - people who know Sarajevo will surely know this little teahouse in the city center. Take all the best things you want during your tea/coffee time, and you get this place.

Splendid drinks with plenty of choice. Ambiance and atmosphere supported by great view. Perfect location near Bascarsija. Most welcoming, authentic and fun host.

You feel as the dearest of friends not a random tourist. This place is a must for a perfect trip. I'd come back to Bosnia just to visit here again.

Besides, it's here that I fell in love with Bosnian coffee (a direct take-away from the Turkish coffee of the Ottoman Empire). I was already fond of the Turkish way to drink black thick coffee. In Bosnia, it is served with a sweet refreshing sherbet (ideally; more commonly, it's a glass of cold water) and a bite of Turkish delight on the side - perfect combination for a hot day.

As a side attraction, I learned how to serve and drink Bosnian coffee. Coffee is made in cezve and served along with another cezve of hot water. First comes adding the water to the coffee and some light stirring. Then coffee creme is carefully gathered from the top and put in the kahve finjani, a tiny porcelain cup in a metal stand. Coffee is poured in afterwards, resulting in a cup of strong, fragrant and relaxing marvel. A sip of coffee is alternated with a gulp of sherbet - I don't think I ever had a better drink.

Combined with the elevated view of the city center and the flocks of pigeons pirouetting around the roofs, this was the experience that ultimately summed up Sarajevo and this whole vacation for me. Yet the Bosnian adventures continued. Walking around the city and gaping at the listed attractions, we were caught in a dreadful storm. It rolled down the mountain tops in low black clouds, rumbling and growling as a wild animal and then pouring down in ice beads the size of a fingernail.

Latin Bridge before the storm ensued

Me and my friend, we have this weird thing we do on the photos, arms and legs spread around in a semblance of a six-pointed star. We do that once per every new city we visit, and, due to the plan, Latin Bridge was the designated site for Sarajevo. We failed spectacularly though, taking cover from the hailstorm on the tram stop for nearly half an hour.

As the storm subsided and turned into regular heavy rain, we plodded through the streets, knee-deep in murky, chalky, coffee-and-milk colored water, ultimately happy. The traffic was hideous, we missed our train, wet head to toe (I literally poured water out of my shoes) - yet I don't remember a better time from this trip. Besides, we caught the best cevapcici near the bus station - and they were prepared lighting-fast, we were shocked at the speed. Sitting in the bus (finally comfortable) taking us to Mostar, we were languidly enjoying the slack feeling of being prepared for anything coming our way.

Mostar old town and Stari most, view from the minaret of Koski Mehmed Pasina mosque

If you get a chance to walk around Mostar at nighttime, enjoy the lightwork, the cozy streets and the coolness of the evenings near Neretva.

Compared to Sarajevo, Mostar is tiny, one of those exclusively tourist destinations that have one major attraction, a couple of minor sites and plenty of ambiance beckoning huge crowds year after year. In a way, it resembles Kazimierz Dolny but with the whimsical quirk of Turkish and Southern European minutiae framing the singular character of the town.

Naturally, the crowds flock on and around the Old bridge, the main site of Mostar. As for me, the narrow painfully cobbled streets (do try to wear shoes with thicker soles) outcharmed the bridge.

Neretva river and panorama of Mostar from Koski Mehmed Pasina mosque's minaret

There is a choice of cozy hidden gems: the Crooked bridge is less famous but instead drowning in greenery. The beach under the Old bridge gives the ability to dip your feet into Neretva (the water is freezing, we nearly got cramps while hastily taking photos - but it's clear and wonderfully refreshing under the blazing sun). The garden of the Koski Mehmed Pasina mosque offers enchantingly picturesque view of the river and small houses under red roofs, transforming the town into an artist's paradise.

It's also possible to get up the minaret of Koski Mehmed Pasina mosque, an activity I believed to be forbidden for non-muezzins, non-Muslims and (even more so) females. The spinning stairs inside the minaret are entertainingly narrow, the balcony on top offers a grand view. And the mere fact of being in a half-prohibited place was enough to pleasantly tickle the nerves and positively reinforce the experience.

What to see in Sarajevo:

Bljela tabija (White fortress)

Zuta tabija (Yellow fortress)

City Hall

Latin Bridge

Bascarsija

Sebilj

Old Orthodox Church

Cathedral of Jesus' Heart

Orthodox Cathedral

Gazi Husrev Bey' Mosque and Bezistan

Taslihan

Lunar clock

Old Synagogue (Museum of the Jews of Bosnia and Herzegovina)

What to see in Mostar:

Stari most (Old bridge)

Crooked bridge

Koski Mehmed Pasina dzamija

Karadoz-begova dzamija

Mostar Peace Bell tower

What to eat:

cevapi

meat under sac (veal or lamb cooked under special lid)

cufte (meatballs)

duvec (vegetable stew)

drasak (pea stew)

ajvar

somun (flatbread)

ustipci (fried dough balls)

Bosnian coffee (and I cannot stress this enough!)

salep

serbe (sherbet)

ajran (salty yogurt drink)

Fifth Step: Dubrovnik, Croatia

The walls of Dubrovnik, Croatia

Dubrovnik is another historic town heavy on tourists, and for a good reason: it's gorgeous. The beauty of city walls unparalleled, Dubrovnik is truly the pearl of the Adriatic sea. The preservation of the old town is worthy of praise, on par with old Tallinn. But that's it - talking about Croatian people, they're quite the unwelcoming type.

To get from Mostar to Dubrovnik, one has to cross the Bosnian-Croatian border tree times. In and out, and in again, and all in just under two hours. And the border guards stamp your passport every time.

The tension of Croatians runs high. From our hostess to most waiters, locals don't seem friendly at all - a surprising fact given the contagious amicability of Bosnians. The prices in Dubrovnik are also considerably higher while coffee is considerably worse (although, to tell the truth, after Bosnia, every cup of coffee I had was so-so at best).

Yet, despite the ranting, Dubrovnik truly is a city with its own character. The first impression was: stairs. The whole Balkan region is like that, built on the hillsides, streets narrow and oftentimes only suited for pedestrians. Dubrovnik is the quintessence of the concept. The hills it is built on are indented with stair-streets, and the road for cars winds and twists, curling in circles through the city like a giant snake. To get from point A to point B, it is easier to clamber up the stairs. Besides, one gets all the best views that way.

Stradun with the belltower of Franciscan monastery, Dubrovnik, Croatia

The old town is enchanting. The narrow streets tightened in the restrains of smooth stone are cool and soothing at sunset. Dark green shutters emphasize the rhythm of the delicate houses. Our early evening in Dubrovnik was drowning in pinkish haze, enchanting and amorous, and the screams of seagulls cluttered up the slowly darkening skies.

The city was built by Venetians, the fact completely obvious to anyone remotely acquainted with architecture. Lacking the tell-tale canals, Dubrovnik instead becomes the labyrinth of tiny streets, a photographer's wet dream at every turn. Stradun, the major street, is full of tourists, day or night, but the back streets are shatteringly quiet as the night falls, almost to the point of feeling haunted.

Panorama of Dubrovnik from city walls: red roofs and Franciscan belltower

The city transforms by the daytime. The blistering sun reflects from the smooth surfaces of the white stone and hits you from all sides: it truly is scorchingly hot. The city walls bring no relief; even the sea breeze is but a short refreshment.

A hat, a bottle of water and a sunscreen are obligatory items on the walls of Dubrovnik anytime from April to October.

But oh the vistas the minute details! Walking around the whole old town and observing how it was built and how it lives from the height of the walls, one is immersed in the history of the relationship between Venetians, this great seapower, and the Balkan region, the focus of their constant conflicts with the Turks. Catching glimpses of inner yards and narrow streets, it is easy to imagine how people lived several centuries ago - as it seems nothing changed much.

The city walls are full of tourists, naturally; a different experience is provided by fort Lovrijenac to the west of the city. Not only it gives a different perspective of Dubrovnik, but is also more spacious as a fortification and is closer to nature (the gorge under its walls lets the imagination run free and create hidden grottoes and caves full of wonders, treasures and sunken ships).

Dubrovnik is surely a city one must visit. If time permits, it's good to have a swim in the Adriatic sea, enjoy the famous Croatian beaches, get up to the fortress on the top of the hill to catch a glimpse of the whole city, and indulge in the rich history. But overstaying your visit is not wise when the much more hospitable Montenegro is just in a couple of hours drive down the coast.

What to see:

old town

St Francis church

Large Onofrio's Fountain

Dominican monastery

crkva Svetog Spasa

Sponza Palace

Orlandov stup

Mala Onofrijeva Fontana

Rector's Palace

St Blaise church

St Ignatius church

Church of the Annunciation

city walls (Bokar, Minceta, Saint John, Buza gate)

Fort Lovrijenac

Lokrum island

Carska tvrdava

What to eat:

raznjici (meat skewers)

zagrebacki odrezak (stuffed veal steak)

lignje (squid)

salata od hobotnice (octopus salad)

crni rizot (cuttlefish risotto)

manestra (soup)

zganci (polenta)

palacinke (crepes)

rozata (creme cake)

Malvazija (dessert wine)

Coming Back to Montenegro

Crkva Svete Klare/Svetog Antuna, Kotor, Montenegro

Planning the trip, it's important to have calm days mixed into the mass of those full of mad activity.

Herceg Novi was our first in the row of more relaxing experiences, a good choice with its lush green streets cascading down the mountain to the Bay of Kotor and the quaint atmosphere of a pre-tourist season. A comparatively young city, it still bears the scars of Venetian dominion, flaunting the old fortress, dark and grey and heavy over the light touristy air of the coast resort.

According to the newly established tradition, I got a day off the trip to catch up with my friend from work who moved with his family to Herceg Novi couple of years back. The rest of the two days were submerged in a daze of slow breakfasts, warm days that tasted like strawberry and tepid waves licking away the tiredness of the feet.

What to see in Herceg Novi:

Citadella

Forte Mare

Crkva Svetog Jeronima

Church of Holy Archangel Michael

Sahat Kula

Kanli Kula

Kotor old town, view of the Fort of St John

For the next day, we picked our speed up, cramming in Kotor and Tivat, and a circle trip around the Bay of Kotor. I still have my regrets about not being able to make a stop in Perast and pay respects to the famous island Our Lady of the Rocks.

The good thing about Kotor is that, although there are many things to see, they are all clustered together (like old well-preserved towns tend to do) - you only need a day to see it all. The only exception is the Fort of St John - probably the main attraction of Kotor, not counting the old town itself.

The streets of Kotor old town

The popularity of this place is primarily based on three things: its age (including historic and militaristic value starting from VI century), the magnificent views it gives from the top over the Bay of Kotor, and its sheer size (it's one of the most significant fortifications of this type in Europe, with 4.5 km long walls).

Kotor may lack the posh sumptuousness of Dubrovnik and the green curvy coziness of Mostar. Yet it is definitely its own thing, a small intimately built town in the clutches of grey stone with sultry air of tiny squares with towering churches and cathedrals, with palaces on every step - Kotor feels like a museum.

What to see in Kotor:

Gurdic Gate (South Gate)

St Triphun's Cathedral

The Drago Palace

The Pima Palace

The Buca Palace

The Palace Bizanti

The Sea Gate with the Tower of Town Guards

The Clock Tower

Duke Palace

Arsenal Building

Crkva Svete Klare/Svetog Antuna

Crkva Sv Nikole

Crkva Sv Luke

Crkva Sv Mihaila

Karampana

The Grgurina Palace

Crkva Sv Ana

Svete Marije Koledate

North Gate

Kotor's Castle of San Giovanni

Church of Our Lady of Health

Fort of St John

Dancing Girl Statue with a view of Old Budva

We spent the night in nearby Tivat - not a historic but resort destination, a city full of luxurious hotels and yachts shimmering off the competing degrees of splendor. As the high season didn't start yet, the city was immersed in a sluggish slumber.

Budva, on the other hand, as the major tourist hub of Montenegro, was boiling and lively, offering a bit of everything. UNESCO-protected old town neighbored fashionable boutiques and giant malls. Quay was full of restaurants offering meats and seafoods of all sorts, narrow streets of old town offered cozier cafes and confectioneries. The beaches, both in-town and on the close-by 'Hawaii' island, beckon with warm transparent water and hidden caverns ready for relaxation or exploration.

The old town of Budva is comparatively small. Half a day is enough to explore it - but the best part about it is the many cozy back streets, dead ends and cubbies that tell their small stories and beckon you to rest and observe the world around.

There is a small street that always has cats pooling under one of the windows - obviously a feeding place. An inner yard of Citadela features a cafe under bright white umbrellas - the perfect combination with old stone, deep blue sea and the green vines to create the true Mediterranean feel. One of the buildings has an old library turned posh restaurant with displayed models of the famous ships.

I've found my favorite cozy little place on the thick wall of the old town near Ricardova Glava beach. A small square surrounded by churches used for concerts and often featuring weddings. A quaint corner of the earth that caught my attention as a street musician was lightly plucking guitar strings for a mellow, sweetly sorrowful melody interweaving into the song of the wind. I go back in my memories to that place - hot crude stone behind my back, sun and seagulls over my head, and fresh warm breeze in my face.

The second day was completely dedicated to exploring the beaches of Budva. The beaches of the tourist zone are sandy; the old town has pebbles.

One of the beaches on Hawaii island, Budva

Seeing Ricardova Glava for the first time, the scene catches one off guard: people are bathing in the clear waters of Adriatic sea right under the rough walls of the church dating back to 840 AD built of darkened pebbles and whitened mortar, battered by time and seawinds. The narrow walk from Ricardova Glava to Mogren beaches conceals a set of hidden gems - from Dancing Girl Statue (one of the symbols of Budva) to the rugged, indented mountain walls on one side and the rocky coast on the other, open-air vista of the sea and Hawaii island, leading to the ambitious route over the rocks and boulders to yet another viewpoint of the city.

And then there's the Hawaii island. Boats take turns to drop off locals and tourists alike on the island full of beaches suited for every taste, with cozy lagoons and hidden grottos.

Best to take the boat that makes a detour to Sveti Stefan - the most luxurious island in the vicinity of Budva, completely covered in medieval red-roofed white-stoned houses and requiring a permit just to get in, people roaming from the coast to the town walls during low tides.

What to see in Budva:

old town

Citadela

Ruins of a Roman church

St Jean Baptist church

Church of the Holy Trinity

Church built in 840 AD

Former St Sara church

Poet plaza

Roman grave

Ricardova Glava (beach)

Dancing Girl Statue

Mogren beaches

Hawaii (island of Sv Nikolai)

Crkva Sv Nikolai (Hawaii)

island of Sveti Stefan

Zipline near Durdevica Tara Bridge, Montenegro

Our last day was decided beforehand.

Everyone going to Montenegro advises to take a tour of Tara canyons. True, the nature is absolutely worth seeing - although I'd prefer taking my time at certain places not rushing as the guided tours do.

I don't know if it's typical of this mountainous region, but that day was rainy, getting us wet from time to time. Durmitor actually got me soaked through to my bones - it's usually chilly here, and the rain made its contribution. But the nature is breathtaking - the dark, nearly black pines, the incredible ravines of rugged sharp stones and brash winds, the sweeping rivers of boiling, madly foaming water, the weak bushes clinging to the tiniest cracks and crevices, and gradually fading off to give way to the bare rocks precipitously piercing the high skies.

Zipline across the Durdevica Tara Bridge actually allowed to experience the void first-hand.

Tara canyon, Montenegro

Forget the 'short line is as good as the long one'. No it's not. It's short - meaning that it takes nearly half of your time on the zipline away from you.

The first moment was quite scary due to the push at the back I got from one of the guys who geared me up - but the anxious thoughts of my-god-there's-five-hundred-feet-of-nothing-under-me were almost immediately swept out of my head by the sheer rapture of damn-I'm-flying-and-it's-so-beautiful. That's something to experience by yourself, no one will be able to translate it to you accurately.

The final adventure was as unexpected as it was welcomed. Summer snow is an occurrence I've never yet experienced in my life - that is, before this trip. Hail is not that common but it happens from time to time (there's one in my memory from when I was around 7, where the hails were the size of a child's fist). But the one we encountered on our way back from the Montenegrin black forests was unprecedented - not only it was accompanied by strong wind and showers but also covered the ground in freezing white blanket, the strangest sight among the rich, plentiful wild greens. The trip back was soothing and distressing at once, with the soft rocking of the comfortable bus on the winding mountain roads and the rapid rapping of hail over the roof.

Big Finale

The Hawaii Beach, Budva, Montenegro

Coming back to Kiev, I was firm in my belief: best trips happen when you plan everything yourself, encounter a bunch of weird and fun adventures and meet challenges head-on. This Balkan tour reconciled me with my turbulent self: the bad things, the good things - it's worth saluting everything that comes our way. What's a trip without obstacles; what's a trip that tells you nothing about yourself, people you travel with and world around you? Cheers!

#balkans #budapest #hungary #beograd #serbia #podgorica #ostrog #niksic #montenegro #sarajevo #mostar #bosnia and herzegovina #dubrovnik #croatia #herceg novi #kotor #tivat #budva #tara

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kevin17blog · 8 years ago

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ballpark foods

Kevin Snyder MKT111 http://kevin17blog.tumblr.com/

Ballpark Bites: Top Food Finds at 16 Baseball Stadiums

Play Ball There’s nothing wrong with peanuts and Cracker Jack, but ballparks around the country are stepping up their concession game, serving local favorites and creative spins on classics. We’ve gone coast to coast, rounding up great choices you could eat alongside new favorites you definitely should eat at the stadiums. Play ball — and eat well.

Angel Stadium (Los Angeles Angels) You could eat: The stadium serves LA-approved healthy acai bowls, as well as the cleverly named Buffalo-style Angel Wings. You should eat: A ballpark outpost of local taqueria Chronic Tacos pays tribute to Southern California’s Mexican food scene. Though the line can get long, the reward is two corn tortillas with your choice of filling (choose the marinated, grilled carne asada), topped with cheese, onions, cilantro, lime, crema and salsa. There's also a choose-your-own tostada bowl.

Citi Field (New York Mets) You could eat: There’s an outpost of Shake Shack, with predictably great burgers, but the lengthy lines mean missing at least an inning. You should eat: “Magician of Meat” Pat LaFrieda is making magic here, with a one-dish kiosk selling filet mignon sandwiches. Order one and you’ll get chopped, fresh-off-the-griddle Black Angus beef with Monterey Jack cheese and sauteed Vidalia onions, served au jus on a toasted local baguette.

Citizens Bank Park (Philadelphia Phillies) You could eat: There are plenty of odes to the cheesesteak at the Phillies' park, including sandwiches at Campo's and Tony Luke's, and a cheesesteak-nacho hybrid. The Schmitter, a trademarked grilled steak-salami-onion sandwich from McNally’s Tavern in Chestnut Hill, has its own dedicated stand, too (section 141). You should eat: Nab a taste of one of the city’s best sandwiches with the Federal Fried Chicken Sandwich, made by Federal Donuts (section 140). The boneless breast is tangy from buttermilk ranch seasoning, and is topped with American cheese, a pickle and Sriracha, all on a potato roll.

Coors Field (Colorado Rockies) You could eat: Rocky mountain oysters. The deep-fried bull jewels are a rite of passage, and a big draw at the stadium. You should eat: Wazee Market sandwiches. Named for a bygone Denver market, the Italian-style sandwich shop makes pizzas, gelato and panini, as well as hearty sandwiches like the Rockies Corned Beef Sandwich, topped with onion rings, slaw and a blanked of melted Swiss cheese, making it the perfect pairing for some local craft beer.

Dodger Stadium (Los Angeles Dodgers) You could eat: Baseball means hot dogs, and no hot dog is quite as legendary as a Dodger Dog, preferably grilled and topped with diced onions. You should eat: It’s hard to justify vegetables at a ballpark, but elote — Mexican-style grilled corn — is perfect on a hot summer day. Slicked with mayonnaise, dusted with Mexican cheese and spiced with chile powder, the corn (available at Think Blue BBQ) is perfect for gnawing beside a backdrop of palm trees. Pair it with the epic Langer’s-inspired pastrami burger (a quarter-pound patty topped with hot pastrami and mustard on a potato bun) for the full L.A. experience.

Fenway Park (Boston Red Sox) You could eat: The park’s namesake Fenway Franks sizzle on Yawkey Way. You should eat: Those with access to the EMC level should partake in the EMC Club, whose nightly changing menu uses ingredients grown in the rooftop garden. Beyond the standard Fenway Franks and burgers, New England classics are served throughout the stadium. Legendary Boston Globe columnist Dan Shaughnessy weighed in: “I’m partial to the lobster roll,” he said, also citing sliders and a wedge salad. The mayo-slicked rolls are available on the Concourse Level at Home

Kauffman Stadium (Royals) You could eat: There’s a healthy helping of barbecue inside Kansas City’s ballpark, including various takes on pulled pork, but the burnt end cheesesteak is the winner. The sauce-slathered combo, available at Farmland Grill (section 239), is smoky, meaty and a great local take on a game-day sandwich. You should eat: Is it a corn dog? A deep-fried German sausage? Boulevard Grill’s bacon-wrapped, tempura-battered footlong dog (section 206) defies all categorization. It’s sweet and spicy, thanks to its chipotle ketchup and slightly sweet cabbage slaw, and packed into a soft pretzel bun that can barely contain the big-league flavor.

Marlins Park (Florida Marlins) You could eat: When in Miami, tuck into a Cubano. The Marlins’ version doesn't skimp; this griddled rendition is packed with thin-sliced ham, cheese and pickles. You should eat: Get a little salsa flavor into your baseball concessions with the Miami Mex Taco Dog. The spicy love child of a taco and hot dog, this footlong frank packs in flavor, with braised chili con carne, cheese, slaw, charred-jalapeno-lime aioli and fresh salsa, all wrapped in a flour tortilla.

Miller Park (Milwaukee Brewers) You could eat: When in the cheese capital of the country, go for fried cheese curds (at Hot Cheese). They’re a very addictive alternative to peanuts, and good to snack on after a grill-out at the park’s epic tailgates. Throughout the park, concessions can read like a state fair showcase, with options like the Ham-Stuffed-Into-A-Doughnut Sandwich (at Smoke Shack) or Bacon on a Stick (at Specialty Sausages). You should eat: Anyone not hungry by the seventh-inning stretch will be swayed by the Klement’s Sausage Race. Make a dash from there to the brand’s grill stand for the hefty Wisconsin Beer Brat, a step up from a standard hot dog and the perfect pairing for brews from the entire Miller portfolio.

Minute Maid Park (Houston Astros) You could eat: Texas barbecue abounds at the Astros’ home stadium. Grab a brisket-loaded baked potato from Texas Smoke or pulled-pork sliders from Little Bigs. On the Club Level, The Butcher serves racks of barbecued ribs. You should eat: Tex-Mex makes a mighty alternative to standard burgers and dogs. The Chipotle Pescado, available from Street Eats (sections 126 and 409), has coffee-rubbed salmon wrapped in two layers of corn tortillas, all topped with mango-jalapeno ranch dressing and squiggles of spicy aioli.

Nationals Park (Washington Nationals) You could eat: Washington’s iconic Ben’s Chili Bowl has a ballpark outpost, so if it’s a classic D.C. half-smoke you’re after, this is the spot. You should eat: Any of the sandwich offerings at G by Mike Isabella, a stadium offshoot of the Top Chef alum’s popular 14th Street shop. Isabella’s subs are inventive but not too chef-y to inhale from your seat in the stands. The juicy chicken Parm does red sauce proud, the Italian is loaded with spicy cold cuts and the roasted cauliflower with romesco is a winning vegetarian option that will satisfy any hungry baseball fan. Isabella is also behind two more Nats Park eateries: A spinoff of his Greek-influenced Kapnos restaurants serves several kinds of gyros, and at the Southern-themed Catchfly, you can get a hot-chicken fix.

Petco Park (San Diego Padres) You could eat: Sure, there are solid, well-battered fish tacos at this Downtown San Diego stadium – and they’re great. You should eat: The best food for a summer evening at the park is a perfectly greasy California-style burger. Hodad’s, a favorite of Guy Fieri, has an outpost here in a converted trailer by the outfield. A cheeseburger will get you a puffy sesame-seed-topped bun with a well-griddled patty, a slick of cheddar, shredded iceberg, dill pickles and onion. It’s perfect to pair with the park's unrivaled list of microbrews from Stone, Ballast Point, Mission and beyond.

PNC Park (Pittsburgh Pirates) You could eat: PNC Park has an outpost of superstar sandwich shop Primanti Bros., with a scaled-back version of the full menu, including cheese fries and capicola with cheese. You should eat: Wings, and lots of them. The Pirates borrow a page from the tailgating playbook with an outpost of Quaker Steak & Lube, home to the city’s best wings, with more than two dozen sauces.

U.S. Cellular Field (Chicago White Sox) You could eat: The Irish Nacho Helmet piles fries into a little green souvenir vessel with cheese, bacon and sour cream, a nod to Chicago’s Irish heritage. You should eat: The Bases Loaded Baked Potato, an even better variation on the theme, has become a fan favorite, packed with beef barbacoa, cheddar, broccoli and chives. Anyone lucky enough to land box seats should follow up with something from the legendary dessert cart.

Wrigley Field (Chicago Cubs) You could eat: Giordano’s is the official pizza slinger at Chicago’s legendary park, serving 6-inch personal deep-dish pies that are an excellent — if messy — taste of the city. You should eat: Wrigley has excellent hot dogs, including Chicago-style dogs and fan favorite Vienna Smokies, but the stadium's biggest draw may be the Hot Doug’s options, available in the bleachers. Go for the Barry Foote, a corned-beef sausage with Swiss cheese, Louie dressing and sauerkraut, ideally paired with Wrigley’s beloved Old Style beer. Yankee Stadium (New York Yankees) You could eat: Nolita favorite Parm operates a stadium outpost serving its namesake sandwiches, like the chicken and meatball Parms. They’re gooey, tangy and everything a hero should be. You should eat: New York butcher Lobel's operates two carving stations, serving sliced-to-order steak sandwiches packed with medium-rare beef rich with its own juices on a fluffy bun. They’re on the extravagant side at $15, but they’re impossibly tender, well-seasoned and so much better than the usual ballpark burgers. The Best New Baseball Park Foods

Pulled Pork Pierogi Stacker at PNC Park (Pittsburgh Pirates) PNC Park ran a contest in 2011 asking fans to designate a signature sandwich, and the Pulled Pork Pierogi Stacker won top honors. It's smoked pulled pork, onion jam and two boiled pierogi on a pretzel bun — all meant to honor the city's Polish and Eastern European residents. Sweet Spot Cotton Candy Dog at Globe Life Park (Texas Rangers) Globe Life Park is famous for its over-the-top franks — the stadium sells 16 options in all. Inspiration for this cotton candy–topped dog came from a player: A concessions manager was brainstorming toppings when he spotted Rangers first-baseman Prince Fielder snacking on cotton candy. The sauce on top is blue cotton candy mixed with yellow mustard (hence the green color).

S'mores Bacon on a Stick at Citi Field (New York Mets) The Pig Guy stand at Citi Field sells three kinds of bacon on a stick, but the fan favorite is the one that's dunked in chocolate and rolled in a crushed graham cracker and marshmallow mixture. Yes, s'mores-flavored smoked pork belly sounds like a bad idea, but most people go from "That's gross" to "This is amazing" in less than a bite.

Cleveland Caramel Fries at Progressive Field (Cleveland Indians) This dish started with a Chopped-style challenge: The park's concessions manager asked his team to create a new menu item based on fresh-cut fries — and whatever else was in the kitchen. The result was deep-fried spuds drenched in caramel and chocolate sauce, with a heaping side of whipped cream. Word has it the staffers will sneak you a sample if you're skeptical.

Crab Waffle Fries at Oriole Park at Camden Yards (Baltimore Orioles) What nacho cheese is to most ballparks, crab dip is to Oriole Park: You can order it over chips, pretzels and sausages, but the perennial crowd-pleaser is the crab dip french fry. The chefs tested a bunch of different fries before settling on the waffle cut — its nooks and crannies can hold the most dip.

Tater Tot Chop at Turner Field (Atlanta Braves) It's a rookie mistake to think this sandwich is made with regular waffles — these are Tater Tots pressed in a waffle iron and stuffed with bacon, cheese and jalapenos. The ketchup is infused with Coca-Cola, another Atlanta home team. Chicken and Waffle Cone at Minute Maid Park (Houston Astros) Forks and knives don't really have a place in the stands, so in Houston, two Southern favorites — popcorn chicken and mashed potatoes — are served in a waffle cone. This year, the chefs are rolling out a toppings bar, including jalapenos, roasted peppers, barbecue sauce, honey mustard and country gravy.

Bigger Better Burger Bloody Mary at Target Field (Minnesota Twins) Like most Bloody Marys, this one comes with a celery stalk. It also comes with a beef stick, a pickle, cheese cubes, pepperoncini and an olive. Oh, and a bacon cheeseburger slider. It took chefs a while to figure out how to serve the drink while the slider was still warm, but their effort was for naught: Many customers spend a few minutes photographing the thing before they dig in. Down Wisconsin Avenue Brat at Miller Park (Milwaukee Brewers) This foot-and-a-half treat might be the most Wisconsin-themed dish in all of Wisconsin: It's two 9-inch bratwursts (a nod to Milwaukee's German population) loaded with sauerkraut, fried jalapenos, cheese sauce and cheese curds, the quintessential Badger State snack. The name "Down Wisconsin Avenue" comes from game announcer Bob Uecker — it's how he describes pitches thrown right across home plate.

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spvcedoll-blog · 8 years ago

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Best 10 restaurants in Toronto in 2017

BORALIA

59 Ossington Ave., 647-351-5100 Toronto’s court to Canadiana is breathtakingly delightful thanks to superchef Wayne Morris. Chef’s most famous item, L’clade, is mussels that arrive at the table topped using a glass dome. The waiter lifts a thick aromatic cloud of pine smoke along with the dome floats upward. Chef’s filled onions are sublime: These are small onions stuffed with silken creamed carrots lightly seasoned with curry spices. Chef’s pan-roasted elk is the best meat in town: tender, juicy, loaded with flavour. But don't leave Boralia without eating the pigeon pie. The flakiest pastry that is potential encloses ineffably tender small balls of squab dark meat with onions and carrots. The pie sit slices of the squab breast, strong, vibrant, fork-tender. Wayne Morris and partner Evelyn Wu Morris have created a charming room with Canadiana shtick that was apt. But what matters most, consistently, is the taste of stuff. And theirs is outstanding.

BESTELLEN

972 College St., 647 407 4227 It’s developed into carnivore nirvana, dry- aging steak till it melts in your mouth, making charcuterie that is appetizing, and delectable sides. Wanna really know where their passion lies? Look at the walls: Pics of meat cuts! Saussicon sec and their sopressata are dry salamis, each spiced differently, both as Lays chips as addictive. The Ontario burrata can be very excellent — about as creamy as it gets. Nevertheless, the big deal here is côte de buf — steak slit in the rib, together with the rib bone attached. It’s just served for two, will set you back over a hundred bucks (with respect to the marketplace price), and it’s very flavourful — and tender. Deeply hot.

THE BLACK HOOF

928 Dundas St. W., 416-551-8854 The Hoof does some luscious pig products and grand charcuterie — We love the fatty crispy smoked pork jowl with roasted figs, the fat set off by pickled pears with blue cheese in vanilla -pear sauce. Their entry into taco-land is, in addition, quite great — high-flavoured cochinita pibil tacos. And they’ve diversified into the vegetable kingdom. Totally charred rapini makes sweet love with crispy, caramelized onion mayonnaise and charred figs walnuts with mustard seed vinaigrette. Arctic char has been treated a la gravlax and goes down great with little dabs of cod roe panna cotta, grapefruit and walnut crumb. Cavatelli do with veg. No res and only debit card or cash, but at least now you'll be able to quaff cocktails while you wait over the street at either Hoof offshoot, Rhum Corner next door or Cocktail.

DANDYLION

1198 Queen St. W., 647-464-9100 Chef Jason Carter has a gold pedigree (Susur, Lee and Centro) and eventually his own sweet lovely resto on Queen manner west. The food clean the menu is very short and changes often, pure and simple. He constantly sends out fresh-made cheese that is soft with bread that is great. He tops absolutely pan fried tilefish with Thai style sweet/sour tomato jam. His lamb chops, soft and pink, come with crispy kale and super -flavoured black lentil stew. Sweets are sweeter: Chef does even more exciting with raw ginger balls, crunchy pieces that are caramel and rich vanilla ice cream was made by a compact pear cake. Jason Carter tries harder.

nationaleventvenue

THE HARBORD ROOM

89 Harbord St., 416 962 8989 The most yummy bistro in town is a stunning deep coral room with schoolroom lights and ceiling fans that are lazy, it’s only trouble being that everybody else knows it also, so it’s consistently crowded and also the waiters are diverted. However, the food is scrumptious. You can still find great soups and hamburgers, amazing octopus as well as their supernal brick chicken remains — fabulously tender succulent chicken pressed to intensify its flavour. Chef Cory Vitiello has veered towards the Middle East, deliciously. Borani is eggplant dip with crispy crunchy fried house-made pita chips. Moroccan beef cheek is stewed till fork-soft with sweet spices and a side of cauliflower roasted with golden raisins. For dessert I favour the ethereal ricotta doughnuts to dunk in creamy lemon curd that is puckery.

ENOTECA SOCIALE

1288 Dundas St. W., 416 534 1200 Sociale is refusing to shore, has upped its game. Still the same precious southern Italian cooking, but better! The best comfort food: Arancini, deep fried balls of risotto stuffed with oozing mozzarella du bufula. Cotechino — Soft house-made pork sausage with perfect well-flavored lentils spiked with puckery marinated and grilled radicchio. Must eat: Bucatini with perhaps the best pasta sauce in town, a victory of three ingredients. Crispy crunchy tomato guanciale and chile. We also adore the pillowy gnocchi with chile- tomato sauce that is kissed and lightly smoked ricotta. Inhale creamy rice pudding with pine nuts and currants. That is the supreme simplicity.

THE CARBON BAR

99 Queen St. E., 416 947 7000 CB is more delicious, the supreme temple of Hogtown’s high end BBQ. And a gorgeous double-height room to boot. We miss the crunchy chicken skin, but hey, it appears they needed to make the menu more girl-friendly. Consequently the red snapper with roasted cauliflower, coconut curry, more salad and some raw fish. But be not diverted in the primary event: This is a meat palace. They slow-roast in a woodfire pit: Brisket like meaty pink ribs on the surface using a touch of char and smoke, butter, along with the top southern fried chicken in town. Dessert is interesting fantasia like banana split built on dolce de leche ice cream and chocolate -covered bananas.

CAMPAGNOLO

832 Dundas St. W., 416 364 4785 Campagnolo has matured into a rock-solid champ of Italo-comfort food, alla nonna, from warm cheesy gougères pastry in the breadbasket to velvety salted caramel budino for dessert. In between are high-flavoured house-made pastas with wonderful tomato sauce assembled on guanciale and browned garlic. This can be substantial cooking — Upscale Ital-mamma food. As all of the other hot restos in town mimic their chance take on fine food, as well as the room feels increasingly gracious.

TUTTI MATTI

364 Adelaide St. W., 416 597 8839 Chef Alida Solomon is at the very top of her game. Her Tuscan cooking is nearly as good as it gets in the hills around Florence and Siena, her ingredients impeccable, her taste buds dazzling. Porchetta is everywhere, but rarely as entertaining as Alida’s variation shaved on grilled bread with tiny crispy-fried shallot rings, arugula and also a slather of tuna emulsified smooth in mayonnaise (a play on the trad vitello tonnato). Smooth waitstaff pour strong loaded pheasant consomm onto pheasant and chestnut tortelli with crisp little touches of farro and dried apple fragments. Perfect lamb comes with grilled fennel, preserved lemon and fab pickled cabbage. Among the very best five Italian restaurants in Toronto.

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southernflamesbbq · 4 days ago

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Best BBQ Sandwiches in Philly | Southern Flames BBQ Menu

Satisfy your BBQ cravings with Southern Flames BBQ! Indulge in our mouthwatering rib and crispy fish sandwiches, smoked to perfection for that rich, smoky flavor you love. Whether you're in the mood for tender, fall-off-the-bone ribs or a perfectly golden, crispy fish sandwich, we’ve got you covered. Plus, don’t miss our exclusive Southern Flames Sandwich Deal in Chestnut Hill—the perfect way to enjoy bold BBQ flavors at a great price! Available for pickup or delivery in Philadelphia. Order now and taste the best BBQ in town!

#Chestnut Hill BBQ sandwiches #Mount Airy smoked BBQ sandwich #Germantown BBQ sandwich takeout #Best BBQ sandwich Philadelphia #Southern Flames sandwich deal in Chestnut Hill #Authentic smoked meat sandwich Chestnut Hill #Quick BBQ sandwich lunch in Chestnut Hill #Order BBQ sandwich online in Germantown #Local BBQ sandwich near me #Family BBQ sandwich combo in Germantown

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southernflamesbbq · 11 days ago

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Order Authentic BBQ Online – Southern Flames BBQ, Philadelphia

We are a  Southern BBQ  take-out located in the Chestnut Hill Market. We prepare all of our foods from scratch, our meats have a southern rub and are smoked. Casual restaurant serving ribs and other barbecue plates, plus sides like mac 'n' cheese and potato salad.

#Authentic BBQ in Philadelphia #Philadelphia BBQ food trucks #Best BBQ restaurants in Philadelphia #Germantown Philadelphia BBQ #BBQ restaurant Germantown Philly #Best BBQ in Germantown #Best BBQ takeout in Germantown #Philadelphia #BBQ catering Germantown Philadelphia #BBQ restaurants that deliver in Germantown Philadelphia #Best BBQ delivery Germantown Philadelphia

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tonyduncanbb73 · 7 years ago

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New England News: James Beard Semifinalist Restaurant Expands in Portland

And other regional food and beverage updates beyond Massachusetts

Broadening the scope a bit, here’s the latest restaurant news from beyond Greater Boston; we’re keeping an eye out for dining developments throughout New England. This piece is updated on a rolling basis, covering restaurant openings, closures, and more in Portsmouth, Providence, Portland, and elsewhere.

Check back for updates — the most recent ones will always be at the top — and email [email protected] with any news tips pertaining to New England restaurant news beyond Boston.

Note: Jump to the bottom of this page for a list of other links pertaining to New England dining, including a guide to Portsmouth and Kittery, an archive of Maine news, a map of the hottest new restaurants in Providence, and more.

February 20, 2018

BIDDEFORD, MAINE — Stone Fort Distillery (26 Pearl St.) has opened in Biddeford — although a grand opening is planned for March. The distillery is producing vodka and whiskey and showing them off in cocktails such as lemon drop martinis and Moscow mules.

CARRABASSETT VALLEY, MAINE — Hunker Downis now open at Sugarloaf, serving American classics and landing itself on Eater Maine’s latest heatmap of hot new restaurants in the state. Menu items include steak frites, spaghetti and meatballs, and other hearty appetizers and entrees perfect for scarfing down after a ski run or 20.

MAINE — Speaking of Eater’s Maine Heatmap, why not check out the rest of the latest update as well? The map features the nine hottest restaurants in the state right now. From Elda in Biddeford (140 Main St.) to Taverna Khione in Brunswick (25 Mill St.), the cuisines currently span Greek, seafood, and comfort food options.

MANCHESTER, NEW HAMPSHIRE — The Breakfast Club (no relation to Boston’s diner by the same name) opened a few months ago in Manchester (342 Cypress St.), and it serves egg tacos among other standard breakfast items. Nearby, Ritu’s Spice Utsav(484 South Main St.)is also up and running with a menu of vegetarian Indian dishes, including dosa, chaat, curries, and tandoor.

PORTLAND, MAINE — Uncle Billy’s Bar-B-Cue (166 Cumberland Ave.) is opening soon, courtesy of chef Jonny St. Laurent, per the Portland Food Map. The chef had previously run Uncle Billy’s Resto-bar at 653 Congress St. in Portland, but it closed in 2007. St. Laurent’s comeback will heavily feature smoked meats.

Meanwhile, Orenda and Peter Hale have reopened their newly expanded restaurant, Drifters Wife, alongside their wine shop, Maine & Loire (59 Washington Ave.) — it was just a move next door, but it came with some useful extra space for a full kitchen and full bar. The restaurant was a semi-finalist for a James Beard award for Best New Restaurant in 2017.

The Maine Lobster Shackis getting ready to open (425 Fore St.) and hiring staff members in preparation. The restaurant promises to serve various chowders, seafood rolls and sandwiches, and salads, among other items. Follow along on the restaurant’s social media for details of the opening.

February 13, 2018

Chuck’s BARbershop [official photo]

Chuck’s BARbershop

CHESTER, CONNECTICUT — Grano Arso(6 Main St.) is now open within a former bank building in Chester, and it showcases a “modern yet familiar approach to traditional Italian cooking.” Chef Joel Gargano mills grain in-house for pasta and bread and has created a menu consisting of crostini, pasta dishes, and entrees ranging from monkfish stew to grilled pork loin with polenta and pesto. There are also cocktails, wines, and beer.

CONCORD, NEW HAMPSHIRE — Chuck’s BARbershop(90 Low Ave.) is a new speakeasy-style bar from the team behind Codex in Nashua, serving up classic cocktails in a space hidden behind an actual barbershop.

HARTFORD, CONNECTICUT — The newly opened Lo Sano Restaurant & Bar (678 Maple Ave.) has a menu full of Latin American classics, including mofongo (made with fried plantains), skirt steak with chimichurri, fried chicken, and tres leches flan for dessert.

NORTH WOODSTOCK, NEW HAMPSHIRE — Pemi Public House (115 Main St.) is a new option for those visiting the White Mountains. The restaurant serves sandwiches, soups, flatbreads, and hearty entrees like mac and cheese and pot pie, plus salads and appetizers. The restaurant also has open mic nights.

February 6, 2018

Katie Chudy/Eater

PORTSMOUTH, NEW HAMPSHIRE — A new cocktail bar has opened in the former Red Door space at 107 State St. The Nice is the work of Kevin Walsh and Bryan Emerson, alums of Moxy and Franklin Oyster House, and they’re running the bar from 6 p.m. on, six days a week (closed Tuesday). Drinks include the Venetian Monk (Bully Boy gin, chartreuse, aperol, lemon, and Peychaud’s) and Pearl Harbor (vodka, jalapeño-infused green chartreuse, pineapple, and melon).

PROVIDENCE, RHODE ISLAND — Coffee fans may soon get the chance to drink their favorite beverage in the presence of a double-decker bus. The Burgundian: Coffee and Waffles is a Rhode Island company that specializes in (as the name suggests) coffee and Liege-style waffles. Founder Shane Matlock purchased a double-decker British bus to restore and convert into a mobile coffee shop, where customers will be able to place orders through a service window but will also be able to enter the bus and partake in coffee and waffles on the second level. Matlock has launched a Kickstarter campaign to fund the bus conversion.

Xaco Taco is now open in Providence (370 Richmond St.), with ten versions of tacos (available as singles or platters) and a wide selection of tequila, plus beer, wine, and churro doughnuts for dessert.

A pop-up that serves sandwiches has debuted in Providence, from the same folks behind UMelt, a sandwich shop with locations at the University of Rhode Island and Brown. The aptly named Sandwich (stylized as ‘sandwich.’) pop-up operates out of the Brown UMelt location (267 Thayer St.) and offers build-your-own options, breakfast sandwiches, and 15 pre-set menu items.

SMITHFIELD, RHODE ISLAND — Laura’s Bar and Grill (945 Douglas Pke.) debuted in Rhode Island recently, with a menu of flatbreads, burgers, sandwiches, and other pub fare. There’s a selection of cocktails, plus sangria.

WARWICK, RHODE ISLAND — New Haven’s famous Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana (which has a location near Boston, in Chestnut Hill) plans to expand to Rhode Island, opening in Warwick some time in April or May, the Providence Journal reports. The restaurant will feature a specialty brick, coal-fired oven that requires seasoning.

January 30, 2018

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Gelato Fiasco

BRUNSWICK, MAINE — The Gelato Fiasco— a Maine-based gelato producer that’s previously popped-up in Boston and has been “eyeing properties in Boston for a while” for a potential permanent location here — has first landed on a site a little bit more southern: Orlando, Florida. After producing gelato for distribution and gaining traction in Florida thanks to the state’s beloved grocery store, Publix, Gelato Fiasco has signed a lease for a space at 25 West Crystal Lakes St., planning to open in spring 2018.

LONDONDERRY, NEW HAMPSHIRE — Long Blue Cat Brewing (298 Rockingham Rd.) is up and running with pints, flatbreads, and snacks. Operating varied hours from Wednesday through Sunday, the brewery is the work of two friends, Jason Knight and Shane Sorenson, who are serving several different beers, including a honey ale, a traditional porter, and a kolsch, among others.

MANCHESTER, VERMONT — Mystic Cafe & Wine Barhas opened in Manchester (4928 Main St.), serving lunch and dinner — both cafe fare and entrees, including salmon tartine, Cuban sandwiches, pastries, grilled cheese and tomato soup, salads, and mussels. The restaurant also offers a full bar and wines by the glass.

PORTSMOUTH, NEW HAMPSHIRE — Poke hit Portsmouth with the opening of Ohana Kitchen several weeks ago (800 Islington St., Plaza 800). The restaurant serves customizable bowls of the Hawaiian dish, in addition to sushi burritos.

January 23, 2018

Dan Watkins for By Chloe

By Chloe in Providence

MANCHESTER, NEW HAMPSHIRE — Suzette Crepes & Waffles (62 Lowell St.) is a recent addition to Manchester, and it serves what diners might expect from the name. With stuffed crepes and waffles topped with various items (including Nutella), the restaurant is connected to Gaucho’s Brazilian Steakhouse.

PORTSMOUTH, NEW HAMPSHIRE — Seacoast Online shares the history and longevity of restaurateur John Mikolajcyk, who was born in Portsmouth 80 years ago and is still involved in the industry, as manager of the Portsmouth Elks Lodge.

PROVIDENCE, RHODE ISLAND — By Chloe, a New York City-born restaurant chain that has spawned locations in Los Angeles and Boston (with a couple opening soon in London), officially opened a new location in Providence last week at 223 Thayer St. The entirely vegan menu includes everything from avocado pesto pasta to various burgers, sandwiches, and breakfast items.

January 16, 2017

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Wow Barbecue skewers

PROVIDENCE, RHODE ISLAND — Wow Barbecue got its start as a food truck in Boston before opening restaurants in Malden and Brookline. Now, there’s a new restaurant in play in Providence, open at 183 Angell St., and it’s serving a menu of Chinese barbecue dishes, rice bowls, noodles, and several appetizers.

SEABROOK, NEW HAMPSHIRE — Brown’s Lobster Pound closed down in August 2017 after a fire, but the restaurant is on the verge of reopening, slated to make its return by April 1.

WEST HARTFORD, CONNECTICUT — A full-service restaurant and bar specializing in vegan food has opened in Connecticut from the same people behind Rooster Co. in Newington. Flora uses seasonal ingredients for its food and drink menu (there’s a juice bar in addition to wine and beer). In addition to falafel wraps, flatbreads, “mac-no-cheese,” and an avocado bowl, Flora serves the plant-based Impossible Burger. For any meat eaters who visit, Flora offers what it calls “viable fauna” or “sustainable and responsibly raised animal products,” like grass-fed beef, wild shrimp, and arctic char.

January 9, 2018

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Bissell Brothers

CONCORD, NEW HAMPSHIRE — Lunch Lady Food Truck debuted at the end of 2017 in Concord, serving a school-themed menu featuring items named for grades one through 10. There are burgers, barbecue pork nachos, Buffalo wings, and Reuben egg rolls, among many other items, including sides and drinks. Find it by the Everett Arena (15 Loudon Rd.), and keep an eye on social media for other locations.

DURHAM, NEW HAMPSHIRE — Burger joint Hop + Grind (7 Madbury Rd. — Madbury Commons) opened at the end of November. The restaurant butchers and grinds its own meats and makes its soda in-house. There are beef, chicken, and pork burgers and two versions of veggie burgers, plus chicken fried mac and cheese and a Nashville hot chicken sandwich. Hop + Grind also serves craft beer and ice cream malts.

MAINE — As a new year kicks off, Portland Food Map takes a look back at the year in 2017 — exploring new restaurants, notable events, trends, and obituaries — while looking ahead towards openings slated for 2018.

PORTLAND, MAINE — The Rock apparently has great taste in beer and sent an assistant to procure some. The famed Bissell Brothers Brewing Company (4 Thompsons Pt.) shared the story on Twitter: “An assistant for The Rock just showed up, he took a private jet here to pick up Substance cans. Got shown some credentials… either we just got massively played or THAT IS AWESOME!!”

Also in Portland, Definitive Brewing Company is under construction and could open in the spring at 35 Industrial Wy., near Allagash Brewing Company, according to the Portland Food Map. Few other details are available at this point, but stay tuned for more from Maine.

SOUTH PORTLAND, MAINE — The poke trend is creeping its way north to South Portland: Big Fin Poke, which specializes in the Hawaiian raw fish dish, is now open at 29 Western Ave., with this location joining a second in Westbrook, Maine. In addition to rice and salad bowls topped with seafood, chicken, beef, or tofu, Big Fin Poke also serves poke burritos, or seaweed wraps stuffed with sushi rice and proteins.

December 19, 2017

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Smoked pork loin chop at Nibblesworth in Portsmouth

KITTERY, MAINE — The Caribbean-inspiredBlue Mermaid Island Grill, which was previously open in Portsmouth, New Hampshire, for over 20 years, returns to the dining scene this week, opening its new Kittery location at 10 Shapleigh Rd. on Thursday, December 21, right next to Tributary Brewing Company. Opening weekend is reservation-only; call (207) 703-2754.

Checkout our beautiful, brand new store front, isn’t she gorgeous?! … . . #bluemermaid #bluemermaidkittery #kitteryme #kittery #newlocation #storefront #restaurantdesign

A post shared by Blue Mermaid (@bluemermaid_kittery) on Dec 16, 2017 at 10:26am PST

NASHUA, NEW HAMPSHIRE — Biryani Pot, which has a location in Framingham, Massachusetts, will add a location in Nashua (295 Daniel Webster Hwy.), and the grand opening will happen soon. The restaurant specializes in Hyderabadi cuisine, including biryani with chicken, goat, egg, shrimp, or vegetables.

PORTLAND, MAINE — Tuscan Table arrives at 390 Gorham Rd. in South Portland on Wednesday, December 20. The restaurant has ties to Royal River Grillhouse in Yarmouth, Maine, and Tuscan Brick Oven Bistro in Freeport, Maine. The restaurant will serve Italian cuisine.

In other Portland news, Bon Appetit recently featured a look at six of the city’s newest restaurants to check out, including Hunt & Alpine Club’s little sibling Little Giant (211 Danforth St.), which is both a restaurant and a market; Noble Barbecue (1706 Forest Ave.), which serves a “formidable” brisket sandwich and more; and Belleville (1 North St.), home of “legitimate Roman-style pizza.”

Eater Maine is also currently featuring some of the hottest new spots in Portland and beyond in the latest updated Heatmap; check it out here.

PORTSMOUTH, NEW HAMPSHIRE — A restaurant with a wonderfully silly name opened recently in New Hampshire, and it specializes in wood-fired cooking. Nibblesworth (409 The Hill) was started by wife-and-husband team Jenny and Tom Nelson, who launched the restaurant with a goal of taking “classic recipes and rejuvenat[ing] them for today’s palate.” The menu includes items like poutine, pierogi, seafood stew, and lobster tacos. As previously reported, it has taken the place of Blue Mermaid Island Grill, which closed in June and reopens in Kittery this week, as mentioned above.

December 12, 2017

Bill Addison for Eater

Sally’s Apizza

BIDDEFORD, MAINE — Nuts & Bolts Brewing Company inches closer to an opening this winter at 7 York St. in the Pepperrell Mill, per the Portland Food Map. The brewery is the work of Patrick Doherty and Deedra Zeeh, and they’re providing progress updates on social media.

CONCORD, NEW HAMPSHIRE — A new collaboration aims to bring tortillas made with local corn to a pair of restaurants in New Hampshire. Vida Tortilla unites the owners of Vida Cantina (2456 Lafayette Rd., Portsmouth) and Dos Amigos Burritos (26 N Main St., Concord, and other locations) with Tuckaway Farm (36 Captain Smith Emerson Rd., Lee), and they’ve launched a Kickstarter campaign to help pay for the equipment needed to produce the tortillas.

NEW HAVEN, CONNECTICUT — One of New Haven’s oldest and best pizza restaurants, Sally’s Apizza(237 Wooster St.), has been sold to new owners, as Eater reports. The names of those now involved will not be made public until January, but they apparently plan to try to expand the restaurant nationwide.

PORTLAND, MAINE — The Portland Harbor Hotel (468 Fore St.) will lean into the cold of winter with an ice bar and ice sculptures in its courtyard garden. From January 25 to 27, the Ice Bar will be open from 5 to 9 p.m., and tickets can be purchased online. There will be specialty cocktails and small bites available.

December 5, 2017

Facebook

Whiskey & Wine Concord

BIDDEFORD, MAINE — Elda opens its doors today, arriving at 140 Main St. with regional-inspired small plates from Bowman Brown, who relocated to the Northeast from Salt Lake City and is a James Beard-nominated chef. The restaurant is named for Brown’s grandmother and will initially serve food only, with wine, beer, and a full bar menu coming soon.

CONCORD, NEW HAMPSHIRE — From the same owners behind Gale Motor Co. in Manchester, Whiskey & Wine has been open for nearly a month in Concord (148 N. Main St.), and it serves exactly that, with 34 varieties of whiskey and American and European wines. The varied food menu includes items like miso and tonkotsu ramen, pulled pork tacos, sushi rolls, chicken potstickers, and seared scallops.

PORTLAND, MAINE — The Highroller Lobster, a popular food truck in Portland, now has a permanent home at 104 Exchange St. The restaurant opened over the weekend and will officially begin operations Wednesday through Thursday, starting on December 6, serving lobster in several different forms (including lobster grilled cheese), plus corn dogs, burgers, and a surf n’ turf option.

November 29, 2017

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The Wilder, Portsmouth

BIDDEFORD, MAINE — Rover Wood Fired Bagels and Pizza is now open at 111 Elm St. Founders Kimberly Chaurette and Alec Rutter, both alums of Somerville’s Forge Baking Company, started Rover as a bagel pop-up, appearing in Salem at Bambolina and local farmers markets. They’re now in business as a brick-and-mortar up in Maine, serving up bagels and sandwiches, with wood-fired pizza on the way before the end of the year.

Instagram

A brunch burger at Sonny’s, closing on December 31

PORTLAND, MAINE — Sonny’s, a nearly decade-old restaurant in Old Port (83 Exchange St.), will close at the end of the year. Taking its place: Black Cow, a burger-and-shake shop with an old-fashioned soda fountain. Jay Villani and Garry Bowcott, who own Sonny’s, Local 188, and Salvage BBQ, are behind the new project, and longtime Local 188 chef Nicholas Nappi (who took a hiatus from the group and worked at Eventide and Hugo’s in the interim) is partnering with them for Black Cow. December 31 is the final day for Sonny’s, and Black Cow could open as soon as mid-February.

PORTSMOUTH, NEW HAMPSHIRE — The team behind the Wallingford Dram — an excellent cocktail bar in Kittery, Maine — has opened a new spot in Portsmouth. The Wilder, a “no-rules New England gastropub,” is now open at 174 Fleet St., the site of the former United Kingdom-themed Coat of Arms bar. It’s open daily, with bar service starting at 3:30 p.m. with snacks, the full menu available starting at 5 p.m., and a late-night menu offered until 1 a.m. Dishes include everything from Scotch duck eggs to braised kid ragu, which most likely refers to goats, not children. For dessert? Apple cider beignets with maple sauce. And shakshuka makes an appearance on the late-night menu.

PROVIDENCE, RHODE ISLAND — A food hall slated for Providence just met its fundraising goal through a Kickstarter campaign. The forthcoming West Park Food Hall (233 West Park St.) will have a number of restaurants, a brewery, and a roastery, with communal seating and a roof deck. It raised more than $120,000, which will go towards various expenses, including design and legal costs.

Instagram

The second level at Thee Red Fez is now White Rabbit

In other Providence news, Thee Red Fez (49 Peck St.) is changing things up, converting the upstairs dining room into a cocktail bar with its own name, White Rabbit. Get dinner at the Fez Tuesday through Saturday, starting at 5 p.m., and drink snazzy cocktails upstairs Thursday through Saturday, starting at 5 p.m.

And in other Providence news, North is now up and running at its new location, the first floor of the Dean Hotel (122 Fountain St.). Stay tuned for details on what the team plans to do with the original space at 3 Luongo Sq. — owner James Mark promises a simpler neighborhood spot that could open in a few short months.

Further Reading

Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Spicy miso ramen at Anju Noodle Bar in Kittery, Maine

New England’s 38 Essential Restaurants: A guide to the best of the best throughout New England, compiled by Eater restaurant editor Bill Addison with the help of food writers from around the region.

The 9 Hottest New Restaurants in Providence, Rhode Island: Updated in October 2017, this map highlights some of the hot new spots to hit the Providence dining scene in 2017.

Eater Maine: Eater Boston’s sister site to the north has been largely retired, but stop by the homepage now and then for updates to major maps, such as the Heatmap, which tracks some of the hottest new openings.

Maine Restaurant News Archive on Eater Boston: While most Maine news going forward will appear right here in this New England news round-up, older stories are archived at the Maine Restaurant News Archive link.

A Guide to Dining and Drinking in Portsmouth and Kittery: Take a trip up to the New Hampshire-Maine border.

Eater Recommends: What to Eat and Drink in Portsmouth and Kittery: Don’t have time to read the whole guide mentioned above? Skip to this map, which highlights some of the Eater Boston team’s Portsmouth and Kittery favorites.

Where to Drink Beer in Portsmouth, New Hampshire: And here’s the beer-specific accompaniment to the above two links.

0 notes

tonyduncanbb73 · 7 years ago

Text

New England News: James Beard Semifinalist Restaurant Expands in Portland

And other regional food and beverage updates beyond Massachusetts

Check back for updates — the most recent ones will always be at the top — and email [email protected] with any news tips pertaining to New England restaurant news beyond Boston.

February 20, 2018

February 13, 2018

Chuck’s BARbershop [official photo]

Chuck’s BARbershop

February 6, 2018

Katie Chudy/Eater

January 30, 2018

Facebook

Gelato Fiasco

January 23, 2018

Dan Watkins for By Chloe

By Chloe in Providence

January 16, 2017

Facebook

Wow Barbecue skewers

SEABROOK, NEW HAMPSHIRE — Brown’s Lobster Pound closed down in August 2017 after a fire, but the restaurant is on the verge of reopening, slated to make its return by April 1.

January 9, 2018

Facebook

Bissell Brothers

December 19, 2017

Facebook

Smoked pork loin chop at Nibblesworth in Portsmouth

Checkout our beautiful, brand new store front, isn’t she gorgeous?! … . . #bluemermaid #bluemermaidkittery #kitteryme #kittery #newlocation #storefront #restaurantdesign

A post shared by Blue Mermaid (@bluemermaid_kittery) on Dec 16, 2017 at 10:26am PST

Eater Maine is also currently featuring some of the hottest new spots in Portland and beyond in the latest updated Heatmap; check it out here.

December 12, 2017

Bill Addison for Eater

Sally’s Apizza

December 5, 2017

Facebook

Whiskey & Wine Concord

November 29, 2017

Facebook

The Wilder, Portsmouth

Instagram

A brunch burger at Sonny’s, closing on December 31

Instagram

The second level at Thee Red Fez is now White Rabbit

Further Reading

Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Spicy miso ramen at Anju Noodle Bar in Kittery, Maine

The 9 Hottest New Restaurants in Providence, Rhode Island: Updated in October 2017, this map highlights some of the hot new spots to hit the Providence dining scene in 2017.

A Guide to Dining and Drinking in Portsmouth and Kittery: Take a trip up to the New Hampshire-Maine border.

Where to Drink Beer in Portsmouth, New Hampshire: And here’s the beer-specific accompaniment to the above two links.

0 notes

tonyduncanbb73 · 7 years ago

Text

New England News: James Beard Semifinalist Restaurant Expands in Portland

And other regional food and beverage updates beyond Massachusetts

Check back for updates — the most recent ones will always be at the top — and email [email protected] with any news tips pertaining to New England restaurant news beyond Boston.

February 20, 2018

February 13, 2018

Chuck’s BARbershop [official photo]

Chuck’s BARbershop

February 6, 2018

Katie Chudy/Eater

January 30, 2018

Facebook

Gelato Fiasco

January 23, 2018

Dan Watkins for By Chloe

By Chloe in Providence

January 16, 2017

Facebook

Wow Barbecue skewers

SEABROOK, NEW HAMPSHIRE — Brown’s Lobster Pound closed down in August 2017 after a fire, but the restaurant is on the verge of reopening, slated to make its return by April 1.

January 9, 2018

Facebook

Bissell Brothers

December 19, 2017

Facebook

Smoked pork loin chop at Nibblesworth in Portsmouth

Checkout our beautiful, brand new store front, isn’t she gorgeous?! … . . #bluemermaid #bluemermaidkittery #kitteryme #kittery #newlocation #storefront #restaurantdesign

A post shared by Blue Mermaid (@bluemermaid_kittery) on Dec 16, 2017 at 10:26am PST

Eater Maine is also currently featuring some of the hottest new spots in Portland and beyond in the latest updated Heatmap; check it out here.

December 12, 2017

Bill Addison for Eater

Sally’s Apizza

December 5, 2017

Facebook

Whiskey & Wine Concord

November 29, 2017

Facebook

The Wilder, Portsmouth

Instagram

A brunch burger at Sonny’s, closing on December 31

Instagram

The second level at Thee Red Fez is now White Rabbit

Further Reading

Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Spicy miso ramen at Anju Noodle Bar in Kittery, Maine

The 9 Hottest New Restaurants in Providence, Rhode Island: Updated in October 2017, this map highlights some of the hot new spots to hit the Providence dining scene in 2017.

A Guide to Dining and Drinking in Portsmouth and Kittery: Take a trip up to the New Hampshire-Maine border.

Where to Drink Beer in Portsmouth, New Hampshire: And here’s the beer-specific accompaniment to the above two links.

0 notes

tonyduncanbb73 · 7 years ago

Text

New England News: James Beard Semifinalist Restaurant Expands in Portland

And other regional food and beverage updates beyond Massachusetts

Check back for updates — the most recent ones will always be at the top — and email [email protected] with any news tips pertaining to New England restaurant news beyond Boston.

February 20, 2018

February 13, 2018

Chuck’s BARbershop [official photo]

Chuck’s BARbershop

February 6, 2018

Katie Chudy/Eater

January 30, 2018

Facebook

Gelato Fiasco

January 23, 2018

Dan Watkins for By Chloe

By Chloe in Providence

January 16, 2017

Facebook

Wow Barbecue skewers

SEABROOK, NEW HAMPSHIRE — Brown’s Lobster Pound closed down in August 2017 after a fire, but the restaurant is on the verge of reopening, slated to make its return by April 1.

January 9, 2018

Facebook

Bissell Brothers

December 19, 2017

Facebook

Smoked pork loin chop at Nibblesworth in Portsmouth

Checkout our beautiful, brand new store front, isn’t she gorgeous?! … . . #bluemermaid #bluemermaidkittery #kitteryme #kittery #newlocation #storefront #restaurantdesign

A post shared by Blue Mermaid (@bluemermaid_kittery) on Dec 16, 2017 at 10:26am PST

Eater Maine is also currently featuring some of the hottest new spots in Portland and beyond in the latest updated Heatmap; check it out here.

December 12, 2017

Bill Addison for Eater

Sally’s Apizza

December 5, 2017

Facebook

Whiskey & Wine Concord

November 29, 2017

Facebook

The Wilder, Portsmouth

Instagram

A brunch burger at Sonny’s, closing on December 31

Instagram

The second level at Thee Red Fez is now White Rabbit

Further Reading

Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Spicy miso ramen at Anju Noodle Bar in Kittery, Maine

The 9 Hottest New Restaurants in Providence, Rhode Island: Updated in October 2017, this map highlights some of the hot new spots to hit the Providence dining scene in 2017.

A Guide to Dining and Drinking in Portsmouth and Kittery: Take a trip up to the New Hampshire-Maine border.

Where to Drink Beer in Portsmouth, New Hampshire: And here’s the beer-specific accompaniment to the above two links.

0 notes

tonyduncanbb73 · 7 years ago

Text

New England News: James Beard Semifinalist Restaurant Expands in Portland

And other regional food and beverage updates beyond Massachusetts

Check back for updates — the most recent ones will always be at the top — and email [email protected] with any news tips pertaining to New England restaurant news beyond Boston.

February 20, 2018

February 13, 2018

Chuck’s BARbershop [official photo]

Chuck’s BARbershop

February 6, 2018

Katie Chudy/Eater

January 30, 2018

Facebook

Gelato Fiasco

January 23, 2018

Dan Watkins for By Chloe

By Chloe in Providence

January 16, 2017

Facebook

Wow Barbecue skewers

SEABROOK, NEW HAMPSHIRE — Brown’s Lobster Pound closed down in August 2017 after a fire, but the restaurant is on the verge of reopening, slated to make its return by April 1.

January 9, 2018

Facebook

Bissell Brothers

December 19, 2017

Facebook

Smoked pork loin chop at Nibblesworth in Portsmouth

Checkout our beautiful, brand new store front, isn’t she gorgeous?! … . . #bluemermaid #bluemermaidkittery #kitteryme #kittery #newlocation #storefront #restaurantdesign

A post shared by Blue Mermaid (@bluemermaid_kittery) on Dec 16, 2017 at 10:26am PST

Eater Maine is also currently featuring some of the hottest new spots in Portland and beyond in the latest updated Heatmap; check it out here.

December 12, 2017

Bill Addison for Eater

Sally’s Apizza

December 5, 2017

Facebook

Whiskey & Wine Concord

November 29, 2017

Facebook

The Wilder, Portsmouth

Instagram

A brunch burger at Sonny’s, closing on December 31

Instagram

The second level at Thee Red Fez is now White Rabbit

Further Reading

Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Spicy miso ramen at Anju Noodle Bar in Kittery, Maine

The 9 Hottest New Restaurants in Providence, Rhode Island: Updated in October 2017, this map highlights some of the hot new spots to hit the Providence dining scene in 2017.

A Guide to Dining and Drinking in Portsmouth and Kittery: Take a trip up to the New Hampshire-Maine border.

Where to Drink Beer in Portsmouth, New Hampshire: And here’s the beer-specific accompaniment to the above two links.

0 notes

tonyduncanbb73 · 7 years ago

Text

New England News: James Beard Semifinalist Restaurant Expands in Portland

And other regional food and beverage updates beyond Massachusetts

Check back for updates — the most recent ones will always be at the top — and email [email protected] with any news tips pertaining to New England restaurant news beyond Boston.

February 20, 2018

February 13, 2018

Chuck’s BARbershop [official photo]

Chuck’s BARbershop

February 6, 2018

Katie Chudy/Eater

January 30, 2018

Facebook

Gelato Fiasco

January 23, 2018

Dan Watkins for By Chloe

By Chloe in Providence

January 16, 2017

Facebook

Wow Barbecue skewers

SEABROOK, NEW HAMPSHIRE — Brown’s Lobster Pound closed down in August 2017 after a fire, but the restaurant is on the verge of reopening, slated to make its return by April 1.

January 9, 2018

Facebook

Bissell Brothers

December 19, 2017

Facebook

Smoked pork loin chop at Nibblesworth in Portsmouth

Checkout our beautiful, brand new store front, isn’t she gorgeous?! … . . #bluemermaid #bluemermaidkittery #kitteryme #kittery #newlocation #storefront #restaurantdesign

A post shared by Blue Mermaid (@bluemermaid_kittery) on Dec 16, 2017 at 10:26am PST

Eater Maine is also currently featuring some of the hottest new spots in Portland and beyond in the latest updated Heatmap; check it out here.

December 12, 2017

Bill Addison for Eater

Sally’s Apizza

December 5, 2017

Facebook

Whiskey & Wine Concord

November 29, 2017

Facebook

The Wilder, Portsmouth

Instagram

A brunch burger at Sonny’s, closing on December 31

Instagram

The second level at Thee Red Fez is now White Rabbit

Further Reading

Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Spicy miso ramen at Anju Noodle Bar in Kittery, Maine

The 9 Hottest New Restaurants in Providence, Rhode Island: Updated in October 2017, this map highlights some of the hot new spots to hit the Providence dining scene in 2017.

A Guide to Dining and Drinking in Portsmouth and Kittery: Take a trip up to the New Hampshire-Maine border.

Where to Drink Beer in Portsmouth, New Hampshire: And here’s the beer-specific accompaniment to the above two links.

0 notes

tonyduncanbb73 · 7 years ago

Text

New England News: James Beard Semifinalist Restaurant Expands in Portland

And other regional food and beverage updates beyond Massachusetts

Check back for updates — the most recent ones will always be at the top — and email [email protected] with any news tips pertaining to New England restaurant news beyond Boston.

February 20, 2018

February 13, 2018

Chuck’s BARbershop [official photo]

Chuck’s BARbershop

February 6, 2018

Katie Chudy/Eater

January 30, 2018

Facebook

Gelato Fiasco

January 23, 2018

Dan Watkins for By Chloe

By Chloe in Providence

January 16, 2017

Facebook

Wow Barbecue skewers

SEABROOK, NEW HAMPSHIRE — Brown’s Lobster Pound closed down in August 2017 after a fire, but the restaurant is on the verge of reopening, slated to make its return by April 1.

January 9, 2018

Facebook

Bissell Brothers

December 19, 2017

Facebook

Smoked pork loin chop at Nibblesworth in Portsmouth

Checkout our beautiful, brand new store front, isn’t she gorgeous?! … . . #bluemermaid #bluemermaidkittery #kitteryme #kittery #newlocation #storefront #restaurantdesign

A post shared by Blue Mermaid (@bluemermaid_kittery) on Dec 16, 2017 at 10:26am PST

Eater Maine is also currently featuring some of the hottest new spots in Portland and beyond in the latest updated Heatmap; check it out here.

December 12, 2017

Bill Addison for Eater

Sally’s Apizza

December 5, 2017

Facebook

Whiskey & Wine Concord

November 29, 2017

Facebook

The Wilder, Portsmouth

Instagram

A brunch burger at Sonny’s, closing on December 31

Instagram

The second level at Thee Red Fez is now White Rabbit

Further Reading

Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Spicy miso ramen at Anju Noodle Bar in Kittery, Maine

The 9 Hottest New Restaurants in Providence, Rhode Island: Updated in October 2017, this map highlights some of the hot new spots to hit the Providence dining scene in 2017.

A Guide to Dining and Drinking in Portsmouth and Kittery: Take a trip up to the New Hampshire-Maine border.

Where to Drink Beer in Portsmouth, New Hampshire: And here’s the beer-specific accompaniment to the above two links.

0 notes

tonyduncanbb73 · 7 years ago

Text

New England News: James Beard Semifinalist Restaurant Expands in Portland

And other regional food and beverage updates beyond Massachusetts

Check back for updates — the most recent ones will always be at the top — and email [email protected] with any news tips pertaining to New England restaurant news beyond Boston.

February 20, 2018

February 13, 2018

Chuck’s BARbershop [official photo]

Chuck’s BARbershop

February 6, 2018

Katie Chudy/Eater

January 30, 2018

Facebook

Gelato Fiasco

January 23, 2018

Dan Watkins for By Chloe

By Chloe in Providence

January 16, 2017

Facebook

Wow Barbecue skewers

SEABROOK, NEW HAMPSHIRE — Brown’s Lobster Pound closed down in August 2017 after a fire, but the restaurant is on the verge of reopening, slated to make its return by April 1.

January 9, 2018

Facebook

Bissell Brothers

December 19, 2017

Facebook

Smoked pork loin chop at Nibblesworth in Portsmouth

Checkout our beautiful, brand new store front, isn’t she gorgeous?! … . . #bluemermaid #bluemermaidkittery #kitteryme #kittery #newlocation #storefront #restaurantdesign

A post shared by Blue Mermaid (@bluemermaid_kittery) on Dec 16, 2017 at 10:26am PST

Eater Maine is also currently featuring some of the hottest new spots in Portland and beyond in the latest updated Heatmap; check it out here.

December 12, 2017

Bill Addison for Eater

Sally’s Apizza

December 5, 2017

Facebook

Whiskey & Wine Concord

November 29, 2017

Facebook

The Wilder, Portsmouth

Instagram

A brunch burger at Sonny’s, closing on December 31

Instagram

The second level at Thee Red Fez is now White Rabbit

Further Reading

Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Spicy miso ramen at Anju Noodle Bar in Kittery, Maine

The 9 Hottest New Restaurants in Providence, Rhode Island: Updated in October 2017, this map highlights some of the hot new spots to hit the Providence dining scene in 2017.

A Guide to Dining and Drinking in Portsmouth and Kittery: Take a trip up to the New Hampshire-Maine border.

Where to Drink Beer in Portsmouth, New Hampshire: And here’s the beer-specific accompaniment to the above two links.

0 notes

tonyduncanbb73 · 7 years ago

Text

New England News: James Beard Semifinalist Restaurant Expands in Portland

And other regional food and beverage updates beyond Massachusetts

Check back for updates — the most recent ones will always be at the top — and email [email protected] with any news tips pertaining to New England restaurant news beyond Boston.

February 20, 2018

February 13, 2018

Chuck’s BARbershop [official photo]

Chuck’s BARbershop

February 6, 2018

Katie Chudy/Eater

January 30, 2018

Facebook

Gelato Fiasco

January 23, 2018

Dan Watkins for By Chloe

By Chloe in Providence

January 16, 2017

Facebook

Wow Barbecue skewers

SEABROOK, NEW HAMPSHIRE — Brown’s Lobster Pound closed down in August 2017 after a fire, but the restaurant is on the verge of reopening, slated to make its return by April 1.

January 9, 2018

Facebook

Bissell Brothers

December 19, 2017

Facebook

Smoked pork loin chop at Nibblesworth in Portsmouth

Checkout our beautiful, brand new store front, isn’t she gorgeous?! … . . #bluemermaid #bluemermaidkittery #kitteryme #kittery #newlocation #storefront #restaurantdesign

A post shared by Blue Mermaid (@bluemermaid_kittery) on Dec 16, 2017 at 10:26am PST

Eater Maine is also currently featuring some of the hottest new spots in Portland and beyond in the latest updated Heatmap; check it out here.

December 12, 2017

Bill Addison for Eater

Sally’s Apizza

December 5, 2017

Facebook

Whiskey & Wine Concord

November 29, 2017

Facebook

The Wilder, Portsmouth

Instagram

A brunch burger at Sonny’s, closing on December 31

Instagram

The second level at Thee Red Fez is now White Rabbit

Further Reading

Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Spicy miso ramen at Anju Noodle Bar in Kittery, Maine

The 9 Hottest New Restaurants in Providence, Rhode Island: Updated in October 2017, this map highlights some of the hot new spots to hit the Providence dining scene in 2017.

A Guide to Dining and Drinking in Portsmouth and Kittery: Take a trip up to the New Hampshire-Maine border.

Where to Drink Beer in Portsmouth, New Hampshire: And here’s the beer-specific accompaniment to the above two links.

0 notes

tonyduncanbb73 · 7 years ago

Text

New England News: James Beard Semifinalist Restaurant Expands in Portland

And other regional food and beverage updates beyond Massachusetts

Check back for updates — the most recent ones will always be at the top — and email [email protected] with any news tips pertaining to New England restaurant news beyond Boston.

February 20, 2018

February 13, 2018

Chuck’s BARbershop [official photo]

Chuck’s BARbershop

February 6, 2018

Katie Chudy/Eater

January 30, 2018

Facebook

Gelato Fiasco

January 23, 2018

Dan Watkins for By Chloe

By Chloe in Providence

January 16, 2017

Facebook

Wow Barbecue skewers

SEABROOK, NEW HAMPSHIRE — Brown’s Lobster Pound closed down in August 2017 after a fire, but the restaurant is on the verge of reopening, slated to make its return by April 1.

January 9, 2018

Facebook

Bissell Brothers

December 19, 2017

Facebook

Smoked pork loin chop at Nibblesworth in Portsmouth

Checkout our beautiful, brand new store front, isn’t she gorgeous?! … . . #bluemermaid #bluemermaidkittery #kitteryme #kittery #newlocation #storefront #restaurantdesign

A post shared by Blue Mermaid (@bluemermaid_kittery) on Dec 16, 2017 at 10:26am PST

Eater Maine is also currently featuring some of the hottest new spots in Portland and beyond in the latest updated Heatmap; check it out here.

December 12, 2017

Bill Addison for Eater

Sally’s Apizza

December 5, 2017

Facebook

Whiskey & Wine Concord

November 29, 2017

Facebook

The Wilder, Portsmouth

Instagram

A brunch burger at Sonny’s, closing on December 31

Instagram

The second level at Thee Red Fez is now White Rabbit

Further Reading

Rachel Leah Blumenthal for Eater

Spicy miso ramen at Anju Noodle Bar in Kittery, Maine

The 9 Hottest New Restaurants in Providence, Rhode Island: Updated in October 2017, this map highlights some of the hot new spots to hit the Providence dining scene in 2017.

A Guide to Dining and Drinking in Portsmouth and Kittery: Take a trip up to the New Hampshire-Maine border.

Where to Drink Beer in Portsmouth, New Hampshire: And here’s the beer-specific accompaniment to the above two links.

0 notes