#SitOnA-Rick
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ricksreddeadpix · 5 years ago
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ricksreddeadpix · 5 years ago
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ricksreddeadpix · 5 years ago
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SitOnA-Rick's
Tips to Taking Pics in Red Dead!
Since it's release, I've always admired the photos that have been posted by other players and could only hope to be able to capture such great moments on my own and after not finding very much in the way of a list of useful tips for getting better pics, I've decided to create one of my own!
Part One - Settings
There are two main ways of taking pics in-game: Via the in-game camera or studio or through the screenshot feature.
Of these, the harder is by far taking screenshots using the Share button on the controller.
Challenges such as on-screen HUD items detracting from the shot or the camera moving too quickly or quirkily make taking good photos this way a bit more difficult. Unless you change some settings beforehand, this can prove a challenge indeed!
In my opinion, probably the most annoying thing is when you have a great shot, but the mini-map and other HUD elements are still visible.
There are two ways of preventing this.
For quick snapshots, (where you don't have a lot of time to fiddle with the settings) you'll want to simply hide the mini-map by holding Down on the DPad and then pressing Circle and also equipping nothing in your hand. This will remove the majority of the offending elements.
For better photos, however, you'll need to make some adjustments to your in-game settings. You'll also need to remember to undo these settings when you're done taking pics, as they will hinder you if you're doing anything other than taking photos! (Unless you normally play with a slow moving camera and no on-screen information!)
Because the R* powers-that-be have not seen fit to offer us any way of saving sets of settings that can be switched between quickly and since these settings will be a huge liability when warring, you may want to enable defensive mode while being a shutterbug to help prevent impromptu wars from breaking out!
Here are the settings that I advise changing (and the reasoning behind changing them, where applicable):
1. Start > Settings > Display (These settings control what is shown on the screen as far as information.)
A. Under "HUD" > Hud Preset
i. Set this to "Off" to remove all HUD elements from the screen
2. Start > Settings > Camera (These settings control the auto-leveling of the camera and whether or not First Person can be used in certain situations)
A. Under "Third Person" > Camera Follow Level
i. This setting controls how quickly the camera will reposition itself behind the player
a. If you want to be able to swing the camera perpendicular to you (especially when mounted) for side-view pics, you'll want to set this to "Off"
3. Start > Settings > Controls (These settings control how fast the camera moves, how your horse responds to directions when mounted and also the amount of input needed to make the camera start moving)
A. Under "Third Person" > Horse Control
i. This setting controls how the horse responds to input, whether it turns based on the horse or whether it turns based on the current camera angle.
a. "Horse Relative" makes it so your horse turns based on it's own position. Pushing left on the stick causes the horse to turn to it's left
i. If you want your horse to continue in a straight line while moving the camera, this is the setting you want
ii. If you want to be able to control your horse (without having a waypoint set) in Cinematic, this is the setting you want
b. "Camera Relative" makes your horse turn based on the current camera position. If the camera is facing forward and you push the stick to the left, the horse will only turn left as long as the camera faces front.
i. If you also have Camera Follow Level set to off and do not adjust it's position while in motion, your horse will turn 90° to the left and continue straight on from that point
B. Under both "Third Person" and "First P:erson" > Look Sensitivity & Aim Sensitivity
i. These settings control how sensitive the camera is to input from the stick is when looking or aiming (down the sights / through the scope)
ii. The higher this is set, the more sensitive the controls are!
C. Under both "Third Person" and "First Person" > Aim / Look Acceleration
i. These is how fast the Aim and Look goes from 0 to 100…
ii. Lower settings make the movement of the camera from a dead stop to full speed much slower. By lowering this you'll be able to finesse the camera into position a little better
D. Under both "Third Person" and "First Person" > Aim / Look Dead Zone
i. These control how much play there is in the stick before the camera begins to move
ii. The higher the setting the more you'll need to move the stick before camera movement starts
For me, when I'm playing normally, I have these set as follows:
1A) Set to Custom with almost all elements showing
2A) Set to "Off" or
3A) Set to "Horse Relative"
3B) Set to Full Bar for both
3C) Set to Full Bar for both
3D) Set to No Bar
When on a photo-takin' kick, I set these to:
1A) Set to "Off"
2A) Set to "Off" or
3A) Set to "Horse Relative"
3B) Set to One Quarter to One Half a bar for both
3C) Set to One Quarter bar for both
3D) Set to No Bar
Now, all you need is some patience and a bit of luck and you too will be taking gorgeous pics in no time!
That's all for now... I may be back with additional tips on lining up and framing shots, times of day, subject matter choices and Sittin' Spots... But we shall have to wait and see.
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ricksreddeadpix · 5 years ago
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ricksreddeadpix · 5 years ago
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ricksreddeadpix · 5 years ago
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ricksreddeadpix · 5 years ago
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ricksreddeadpix · 5 years ago
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ricksreddeadpix · 5 years ago
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ricksreddeadpix · 5 years ago
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ricksreddeadpix · 5 years ago
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ricksreddeadpix · 5 years ago
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ricksreddeadpix · 5 years ago
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ricksreddeadpix · 5 years ago
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ricksreddeadpix · 5 years ago
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ricksreddeadpix · 5 years ago
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