#Sincere Haute Horlogerie
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watchilove · 11 days ago
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Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1RES.3 Sincere Jubilee Edition
The Chronomètre FB 1RES.3 Sincere Jubilee Edition is a testament to horological excellence, crafted to commemorate the 70th anniversary of Sincere Haute Horlogerie. Limited to just three exclusive pieces, this masterpiece embodies the spirit of innovation and tradition synonymous with Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud. Continue reading Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1RES.3 Sincere…
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123designsrq · 5 years ago
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THE BEST OF AN ELEGANT WATCH DESIGN IS A RICH TASTE
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There’s so much we owe the Greeks for. Probably one of the maximum impactful civilizations of the world, Ancient Greece is liable for giving us democracy, trial via jury, geometry, philosophy, history (the primary documented historian was a Greek), theater, and even the Olympics. The modern international might be a very distinctive area had it no longer been for the Greeks. We’d likely still be monarchist, wouldn’t have right documented proof of historic activities, no theater, no Olympic video games, and would nonetheless conflict to awaken at a predetermined time of the day, due to the fact agree with it or no longer, the Ancient Greeks additionally gave us the alarm clock. Igemon’s watches provide the Ancient Greeks the hat-tip they rightfully deserve. Designed as an ode to one of the best civilizations, Igemon’s watch face is the first to feature Greek numerals in a wristwatch. Designed with the best premium materials, the usage of geometric shapes inspired from Greek architecture, Igemon’s specialty sets it aside, and its party of its background offers it cultural soundness. The watch comes with an anodized 316L stainless-steel body in a crisp circular design. It functions a sapphire crystal glass on pinnacle to save you the watch from scratches, a Swiss Ronda 763 quality motion at the inner, and sandwiched between the 2, a pristine watch face with no longer Arabic, now not Roman, but alternatively Greek numerals, a system that predates the previous by using some hundred years. The numbers are laid out in the conventional 12 hour format, permitting them to be without difficulty study, while a radial paintings on the watch face denotes the presence of 60 seconds in a minute and 60 minutes in an hour, at the same time as additionally creating a connection with the Greek origins of geometry. Designed in two sizes, Igemon is available in a 43mm diameter for men and a 40mm diameter for women. The watches include five ATM waterproofing, and game an eye-catching mesh strap, with an Italian leather opportunity too. Designed to be a fusion of history and art collectively, Igemon puts lifestyle round your wrist, and springs with a 2-yr international assurance. Designer: Giorgios Tsouknakis Click Here to Buy Now: $157 $270 ($113 off). Hurry, Only 4/15 Left! Igemon Watches – Where History Meets Art Igemon is an eye supposed to carry records inside the foreground. As its distinguished function are the Greek numerals on the dial, it becomes clear that the upkeep of the very lengthy history of our civilization, is of primary significance to the layout crew. For the past two years, the layout team have dedicated their mind and effort to creating an eye that would meet the highest requirements as far as design and pleasant are involved. Collaborating with noticeably professional manufacturers, whom they have cautiously selected, the group has acquired the finalized samples, which fully lived as much as their expectations. The subsequent step became to proceed with safeguarding Igemon with a patent. The outcome is an eye boasting pinnacle excellent materials and authenticity. Igemon Watches – The Classic Collection for Men   Igemon Watches – For Women
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Igemon Watches – Specs
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Features: – Greek numerals – An anodized 316L stainless-steel body – Sapphire crystal glass on pinnacle to save you the watch from scratches – Swiss Ronda 763 caliber movement – Traditional 12 hour layout- 60 seconds in a minute and 60 mins in an hour, – Reference to the Greek origins of geometry Case Dimensions: – Men’s Collection: 43×nine mm – Women’s Collection: 40×9 mm – Strap length: 20 mm for both Men’s and Women’s Collections
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Available strap colorations: – Mesh: Silver, Gold, Rose Gold – Leather: Black, Brown (Alligator Pattern) – Buckle: stainless-steel pin buckle Warranty: 2 years global guarantee against production defects The Total Watch Package
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– The Total Watch Package includes two unique strap alternatives, a stainless steel mesh bracelet and a top class Italian leather-based strap. – Placed in a costly black leather-based box, you will also acquire a complete description of the specs of your watch, a certificates of authenticity, guaranteeing the use of the greatest substances, as well as a thank you card in appreciation of your buy. The Vision The imaginative and prescient is to diversify our product, offering entire collections of watches, inspired from ancient Greek deities, monuments, as well as regularly occurring figures, which will selling the Greek civilization through the watches. best women's luxury watches, best affordable women's watches, trending women's watches 2018, women's luxury watches guide, top 10 women's watches, top women's watch brands list, classic women's luxury watches, best women's luxury watches 2018 So lets take a look at other designs that grab or attention for 2019 and going into 2020: These days, almost every lady seems to have a smartphone permanently attached to her hand, and all she has to do to tell the time is take a quick glance on the virtual clock in the nook of the smartphone’s display. That hasn’t faded the importance and appeal of a great luxurious watch. A excessive-cease watch is the perfect way for a woman to supplement her outfit, adding elegance, elegance and fashion to her universal look. Many trust that an eye fixed conveys a girl’s personality in a way no different accessory can, at the same time as at the identical time accenting her femininity and beauty. Lovely, minimalist watches and big, ornate ones are each able to make a wonderful fashion assertion – depending on the woman’s non-public fashion and look. Groom+Style encompass each sorts of timepieces and a few that fall in between the 2 extremes, in our list of the pinnacle 10 fine luxury watches for girls. Characteristics of Luxury Watches for Women (and Men) Accuracy in an eye fixed that costs lots of greenbacks is crucial, of course, however it’s additionally pretty plenty guaranteed due to the fact those timepieces are produced by using the arena’s finest watchmakers. For that reason, the traits to look for when deciding on a girls’s luxury watch usually contain appearance, capability, and status. Brand Construction exceptional Features Style Price As you check out this listing, you’ll word that the fees of those luxury watches for girls correlate most carefully with brand call and layout functions, particularly for timepieces with awesome headaches or extremely good splendor. Any of these ten watches, even though, can be a beautiful addition for your collection. For now, neglect the time and immerse yourself in the world of luxury, class and high-give up fashion; as the Groom+Style group takes you thru their list of the pinnacle 10 excellent luxury watches for ladies.
10. Dolce & Gabbana Sofia Pink Gold
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Luxury Watches For Women - Dolce & Gabbana Sofia Pink Gold Dolce & Gabbana Sofia Pink Gold The Italian fashion residence Dolce & Gabbana is satisfactory acknowledged for its ladies’s apparel strains (and its guys’s strains stimulated through soccer apparel), but the label has improved in recent years to supply accessories like watches. Their timepiece designs integrate traditional D&G fashion with fantastic actions created in Switzerland by the incredible Italian watchmaker Binda. The Dolce & Gabbana Sofia line of timepieces is elegant, elegant and present day, and the Sofia Pink is a minimalist beauty with a geometric appearance. This Sofia is crafted from 18 karats pink gold with a strap made from a hundred% pure pink silk satin, finished with an 18 karat purple gold clasp. The dial is crafted from red tooth with pink gold-plated hands and brand. And covered via a symmetrically-faceted sapphire glass crystal. It’s powered through a high-caliber Swiss electronic quartz motion and is the bottom-priced luxurious watch on our listing. The delicate and feminine appearance of this timepiece, but, could be hanging at any charge.
9. Rolex Lady-Datejust 26 Gold Dial 18K Yellow Gold President Automatic Watch
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Luxury Watches For Women - Rolex Lady-Datejust gold president Rolex Lady-Datejust gold president. Click at the photo to test the Price on Amazon. No list of the pinnacle 10 great luxurious watches for women – or men – might be complete without a Rolex. The Lady Datejust series of timepieces presents the correct way to have one of the most prestigious names in timekeeping to your wrist at an affordable price. There are a number of these Rolex fashions to suit your choices and price range. Groom+Styles’s desire would be the attention-catching Pink Jubilee Diamond Dial Steel and 18K Everose Gold Automatic, presenting a red jubilee face, fluted everose gold bezel, and two-tone band. However, that is a “excellent” listing, so the evaluation group has to be sincere. The most putting timepiece within the Lady-Datejust line is the Gold Dial 18K Yellow Gold President. It’s fantastically narrow, with each the case and bracelet made of 18 karats yellow gold, plus a gold face, gold-tone fingers and diamond hour markers. The President maintains superb time, is water-resistant to 100 meters (beneficial if you plan to take your gold be careful for a dive), is supremely appropriate – and it’s a Rolex. Check Lady’s Rolex Gold President Price on Amazon
8. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Small Model
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Luxury Watches For Women - Vacheron Constantin Overseas Small Model Vacheron Constantin Overseas Small Model. Click at the photo to check the Price on Amazon. Vacheron Constantin is a celebrated name inside the world of Swiss Haute Horlogerie, developing some of the sector’s first state-of-the-art complications within the 18th century and still building the most complex mechanical watches ever seen. The Overseas line become introduced much greater recently, in the early twenty first century, but fast became a symbol of sporty beauty. The ladies’s Overseas Small Model is a precision mechanical self-winding timepiece prominently offering the hallmark of Geneva certification. It’s additionally a wonderful splendor. Three interchangeable bracelets and straps come with this watch: satin-brushed stainless-steel, blue rubber, and an incredibly appealing black hand-stitched alligator strap. The dazzle is provided by way of 84 round-reduce diamonds (totaling multiple karat) set at the six-sided bevel surrounding the brown lacquered sunburst face. This is a bigger, spherical timepiece – however with its choice of bracelets and the sheer loveliness of the bezel and face, it is an eye you’d be proud to wear nearly anywhere. Try and Find the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Model on Amazon
7. Piaget Polo Fortyfive Lady Watch
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Luxury Watches For Women - Piaget Polo Fortyfive Lady Watch Piaget Polo Fortyfive Lady Watch. Click at the photograph to test the Price on Amazon. It shouldn’t be surprising that so a few of the top 10 best luxury watches for ladies are Swiss-manufactured, and it really shouldn’t be unexpected to see a version from Piaget in this listing. The watchmaker is famed for producing a number of the slimmest timepieces in the marketplace, at the side of the use of unusual semi-precious stone and, of route, precision moves. The Polo line of timepieces has been regarded for its avant-garde style since it become delivered extra than 35 years in the past, and Polo Lady watches characteristic the throwback look that is so famous nowadays. The quartz Forty-five is a huge and stylish watch, with its length and huge numerals contributing a completely unique experience of sporty fashion. It is available in several patterns; one features an 18-karat rose gold case with diamond pavé bezel, white face, date show, diamond index marker and white rubber band, at the same time as some other has a rose gold and diamond pavé face with an alligator leather-based strap. Try and Find Piaget Polo on Amazon
6. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Squadra Lady Duetto Pink Gold
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Luxury Watches For Women - Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Squadra Lady Duetto Pink Gold Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. Click the image for the Amazon Price. Jaeger-LeCoultre has an extended and storied records of innovation in Swiss timekeeping, and its Reverso an amazing time some eighty five years in the past as a luxurious reversible sports watch; the cause for the reversible case was so wearers ought to defend the face throughout polo matches. Polo fits are in all likelihood no longer a subject for girls (or men) nowadays, however this iconic reversible design has been reimagined as a announcement timepiece that's certainly eye-candy for the fashion-conscious. The Squadra Lady Duetta has a square face that’s silvered, guilloché and sunray-brushed with big, polished gold-plated numerals, and well-knownshows a black rear dial with a visible oscillating rotor. The water-resistant case is made from purple gold, featuring 73 pavé diamonds totaling nearly 1.25 karats. There’s a black, alligator leather-based strap. The automated self-winding motion is as precise as you would assume from Jaeger-LeCoultre and the affect this timepiece makes is as memorable as you would wish for. Check Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Price on Amazon
5. Patek Philippe Ladies’ Calatrava
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Luxury Watches For Women - Patek Philippe Ladies Calatrava Patek Philippe Ladies’ Calatrava. Click on the image to check the Price on Amazon. Whether you’re at a proper dinner, a business assembly or picking up dinner at Whole Foods, a Patek Philippe makes a totally specific statement. The assertion that the Ladies’ Calatrava makes is pure sophistication. This line has been the flagship timepiece of the Swiss watchmaker since the 1930s, still conveying the minimalist beauty it was designed with almost a century in the past. The Calavatra Groom+Style favor has a white gold case, with 48 small baguette diamonds set in its bezel and six baguettes more in the prong buckle set, a night blue dial and nighttime blue brushed satin strap. There are six different watches inside the Ladies’ Calatrava line, consisting of one with a greater extravagant-looking dark purple lacquered face and violet-coloured alligator strap with 20 diamonds, plus a draped-formed white gold case set with extra than 5 carats of diamonds (162 of them, to be exact) – which, of course, sells for a lot extra. If you’re seeking to make an affect, look no in addition. Try and Find Patek Philippe Calvatra on Amazon
4. Bulgari Serpenti Incantati
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Luxury Watches For Women - Bulgari Serpenti Incantati Bulgari (or Bvlgari, in case you decide on) has long been regarded for the impeccable satisfactory of its earrings and watches. Its most-cherished motif has end up the business enterprise’s innovative symbol: the serpent. Bulgari has been producing its Serpenti rings and watches because the 1930s, but its trendy generation of women’s timepieces is the first to sincerely characteristic a serpent winding itself across the dial. The look is surely hanging, and not like any watch, you’ve ever visible. Don’t pick the Serpenti Incantati in case you need to be inconspicuous at your next cocktail birthday celebration. It’s Haute Joaillerie at its greatest, with a preference of crimson or white gold case, and 116 high-quality-cut pavé diamonds snow-set alongside the length of the serpent and ringing the skeletonized, tourbillon dial. The satin strap has any other 20 superb-reduce diamonds to complete off this high-precision timepiece a good way to stop traffic if you move the road wearing it. There are numerous alternatives you could pick. Check Bulgari Luxury watches on Amazon
3. A. Lange and Sohne Saxonia Mother-Of-Pearl and Diamond Watch
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Luxury Watches For Women - Saxonia Mother-Of-Pearl and Diamond WatchYou count on things from an A. Lange and Sohne timepiece: technical perfection and pure beauty. Their Saxonia line promises both. This German watchmaker became placed out of commercial enterprise following World War II but turned into resurrected by a member of the family and numerous notable Swiss watchmakers inside the 1990s, and over again is producing truely wonderful excessive-cease European timepieces. The 18 karat white gold case at the ladies’s Saxonia is extremely good, but what truely sticks out is the impeccably-cut mom-of-pearl dial, with a smaller mother-of-pearl 2d-hand dial at the bottom. It’s no longer just a watch – it’s a piece of artwork. Small, sparkling diamonds established at the bezel surround the face, and a white alligator strap completes the understated but breathtaking appearance. The automatic mechanical motion is extraordinary, however the charge tag isn’t only for an eye fixed that continues suitable time; it’s for an incredibly sophisticated style piece. Check A.Lang and Sohne Luxury watches on Amazon
2. Blancpain Women Jour Nuit
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Luxury Watches For Women - Blancpain Women Jour NuitBlancpain has a strange records. After nearly centuries of family ownership, the company (or its call) become exceeded a number of instances among distant own family members and large massive-name timepiece corporations. Throughout that point, even though, Blancpain endured to fabricate relatively-seemed mechanical watch movements and modern designs. The Women Jour Nuit (night time and day) may be Blancpain’s maximum stunning layout ever. This is a big timepiece, but it’s thin. More importantly, the manner the 2 exclusive movements are displayed focuses interest at the watch’s face and no longer its length. The mother-of-pearl dial is divided into three sections, on 4 distinct degrees; that gives the timepiece the appearance of a deep and complex technological surprise – which it is. There is a day-night time disc which turns twice in step with day and is visible at the upper 1/2 of the face, with varying blue colours and difficult designs symbolizing the converting sky imparting a enchanting and continuously changing display. One motive it’s enthralling: the sun is made from 50 yellow sapphires and the moon is crafted from 50 diamonds, with any other 14 diamonds to symbolize the celebrities. The retrograde 2nd hand contributes simply one greater element of visible fascination. If you may pull your interest far from the face, you’ll see spiral rows of diamonds (one hundred forty in all) along the bezel and a white ostrich leather strap rounding out this brilliant timepiece. But you probable can’t; the assessment team couldn’t. Check Blancpain Luxury watches on Amazon
1. TOP CHOICE: Ballon Blanc de Cartier
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Luxury Watches For Women - Ballon Blanc de CartierHarkening lower back to the Roaring 20s and the technology’s glittering bracelets dripping with gem stones, the Ballon Blanc de Cartier melds the exceptional layout talents of Cartier with a extraordinary Swiss quartz movement. It is a timepiece which has moved the esteemed earrings house front and center within the horological motion, in addition to to the top of our listing of the top 10 great luxurious watches for ladies. The dial on the Ballon Blanc is flinqué with closely-lacquered white mother of pearl with blue sword-shaped hands and the trademark Cartier railroad design for the mins. The small and thin case is to be had in either 18 karats rose or white gold, with two rows of diamonds at the bezel – but no longer just any diamonds. Cartier selects each of the spherical great stones in my opinion and provides a massive, almost ideal (IF, VVS1) colorless solitaire diamond in a separate placing subsequent to the “four” on the face. In a “predicament” that’s contrary of that presented with the aid of the Blancpain, even though, it could be hard to awareness on the face of this timepiece, due to the polished, segmented 18 karats white gold bracelet this is set with more diamonds. At this point, the cash sign in is absolutely clicking for your head, and it ought to be. One appearance, although, and you’ll agree that it’s really worth it – even if you could’t have the funds for it. Read the full article
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rodrigohyde · 6 years ago
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A Trip Down Cynical Lane With The Watch Snob
A Tough Nut To Crack
I am looking for a travel watch with a world timer function. Looking for one which is slightly casual/sporty with a water resistance of 5 ATM. My budget is 2000 USD, although I can wait it out and push it to 3500 USD as well. I know there aren’t many options at this price for a ‘mechanical’ watch, but no harm in asking.
Since I live in India, I am looking for one which displays one of the Indian cities [doesn’t have to display a major city in every timezone though]. It’s 5 hr 30 mins ahead of GMT. There are watches by Vacheron [Overseas World Time] and De Bethune [DB25], both of which are way out of my budget.
Related: Can't Decide On A New Timepiece? The Watch Snob Has Some Advice
As you have clearly discovered, this is a rather tough nut to crack. Mechanical multi-time zone watches generally content themselves with the ability to show a second time zone, only in full-hour increments and the addition of half-hour or fifteen minute increments requires considerably greater complexity and cost. In your price range I am afraid there are not a great many possibilities – in fact I can’t think of a single true Cottier-style world time watch anywhere near that, that also offers the functionality you seek. Given the increasing importance of your illustrious sub-continent for mechanical watchmaking perhaps the dearth of choices in this price range, is something someone will at some point address.
The only partial solution I can suggest is a wristwatch with a hand for a second time zone and – here is the key feature – an inner rotating bezel; the Bremont Alt1-ZT is an example. After resetting to local time upon arrival at your destination, you can use the inner bezel to read off home time to any offset you like.
Of course, if you were willing to accept something in a quartz watch, there are any number of them which will happily show you the time in every time zone there is for about a tenth of your minimum budget or less. Time zones are always an amusing thing to see watch brands struggle with – all it takes is one impulsive decision on the part of an attention-seeking despotic government and lo and behold, we have a new time zone which renders every attempt to make a comprehensive world time mechanical watch obsolete at a stroke.
Best Bud’s Birthday On A Budget
I stumbled upon your blog while searching for watches, and I decided to send you a message in hope I'll get an answer for my question.
My friend's birthday is near, and I wanted to offer him a watch. But I absolutely have no knowledge when it comes to watches. So I was hoping you could help me with some suggestions.
From what I could see on your blog, you always opt for big brands. But as I'm a 22 years old who just recently started working, I can't afford anything for more than 200 Euros . My friend has a Casio Edifice and a Lotus .
I read your query with some amusement. A Casio Edifice and a Lotus … one assumes you mean a Lotus watch but I like to think that you might have meant the flower, or possibly the car. Either would be an interesting juxtaposition with the watch, though perhaps less informative in terms of your chum’s tastes.
In any case, at $200 and under there are actually a number of interesting choices – nothing with any pretensions to haute horlogerie, you understand, but then you probably don’t know what that means anyway . From Casio we have of course the legendary, world-renowned timepiece extraordinaire known to all and sundry as the G-Shock, which has the glorious distinction of being the only wristwatch in history to have been tested by being repeatedly thrown out of a fourth floor bathroom window .
Your chum appears to have nothing in their possession that emits that seductive siren song known as ticking and may I commend to you, therefore, the ever-delightful and reliable wristwatch known as the Seiko 5, which has started many an unsuspecting watch enthusiast down the royal road to financial and mental ruin. Generally available online for less than one hundred dollars, and capable of running for many years without any human intervention.
Or you can do as many who love watches have done when trying to decide between two watches, and just buy both – one of the beauties of the Seiko 5 and the G-Shock is that for two hundred dollars, you can do that and still have enough left over for a bottle of something to celebrate.
Is It Hip To Be Square Again?
I honestly find your column entertaining, but I miss your thoughtful cynical answers recently. My wife and I are thinking to buy watch for our daughter who will soon enter into college for communication and also photography. She loves square watches and sometimes happily wears my wife's JLC Revero or Cartier Tank in certain occasions. But she wears none for her daily and let her Citizen Eco Drive Square collecting dust on her table. If we have to find a decent budget friendly square watch to "substitute"  for the Reverso or Tank for her daily use what is Snob recommendation? Thank you and we appreciate your recommendation.
Cynicism for its own sake is a mere pose which exists only to inflate the ego of the writer, and to persuade those who prefer stereotypes to thinking that the writer is sincere. It is a plague of discourse on the internet that to be rude by default denotes authenticity, and that to be thoughtful and measured shows at best spinelessness, and at worst, an undisclosed conflict of interest. I have always been, and remain, more than happy to deplore the deplorable but rewarding reader stupidity with attention, and shoddy watchmaking with the same, has over the last few years increasingly seemed to me to merely encourage the very same idiotic and unapologetically unthinking discourse and watch design which we would all be far better off without.
Also, the NOMOS Tetra is a very nice watch indeed and is, in fact square. It is an under appreciated model from the firm, and underexposed; should your daughter abjure the Eco-Drive for not being mechanical, the Tetra should fill the bill nicely.
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from Style channel http://www.askmen.com/style/watch_snob/a-trip-down-cynical-lane-with-the-watch-snob.html
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watchilove · 4 months ago
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Lang & Heyne Friedrich III Remontoir Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition
Commemorating Sincere Fine Watches’ 70th Anniversary, Lang & Heyne proudly introduces the Friedrich III Remontoir Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition, limited to 7 pieces. As a valued partner, Lang & Heyne was among the three distinguished manufacturers to launch the inaugural SHH Editions at the opening of Sincere’s concept boutique, SHH (Sincere Haute Horlogerie), in Singapore back in 2022. This…
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watchilove · 2 years ago
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Lang & Heyne announces limited 12-piece Sincere Haute Horlogerie Special Edition Georg in 18k rose gold
Lang & Heyne announces limited 12-piece Sincere Haute Horlogerie Special Edition Georg in 18k rose gold
In collaboration with one of South-East Asia’s oldest and most respected high horology retail groups, Lang & Heyne is pleased to introduce the Georg Sincere Haute Horlogerie Edition – a special and unique 12-piece interpretation of the award-winning Lang & Heyne Georg, available only at Sincere Watch stores in Singapore and across the region. (more…)
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watchilove · 4 years ago
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Richard Mille has developed a new kind of watch. The RM 72-01 Lifestyle In-House Chronograph seeks to embody the watchmaker’s unrivalled know-how while making an indelible mark on its era as a work of art. Benjamin Millepied and Thomas Roussel, two modern hybrid artists, are leading the project W I T H I N, both technically and artistically.
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W I T H I N – At the heart of creativity
Every new creation is a world unto itself. A wholly new space born of a play between spirit and sensation. Singular yet timeless, innovative and performance-driven, the RM 72-01 Lifestyle In-House Chronograph is poised at the intersection between Haute Horlogerie, dance and music. Movement is all. Movement of time, of bodies, of notes.
The latest ‘face’ of Richard Mille — the ultimate metronome of emotion—is a work in which technicity serves and drives elegance. It’s also an in-house creation, featuring the first flyback chronograph entirely developed and designed by the brand. An achievement crowning no less than 30 months of full-time work on the part of a dedicated team.
The new RM 72-01 keeps time, three beats to a measure, a rhythm emphasising three numbers: three, eight and eleven. Three beats for the three counters that immediately capture every eye. The hands dance in stylised harmony within their three respective timescales (blue for seconds, orange for minutes, green for hours), orchestrated by a six-column wheel.
The transfers from minutes to hours have been isolated from the seconds wheel in this flyback chronograph which incorporates a double oscillating pinion mechanism developed and patented by Richard Mille. The brand has submitted a patent application for its double-clutch chronograph. ‘This pinion, which can enmesh or withdraw from the gear teeth, has been twinned. There’s now one for the minutes and another for seconds. This system is thinner than a vertical clutch, which would be hard to fit into the heart of the movement,’ explains Salvador Arbona, Technical Director for Movements. As a result, the chronograph function has little impact on the power reserve. The Calibre CRMC1 thus remains quite slim, at just 6.05 mm thick, despite comprising 425 different components.
Equipped with 24-hour and 60-minute counters positioned at 5 o’clock and 2 o’clock respectively, it proves that a chronograph need not be limited to timing only short periods. This mechanism was entirely imagined, manufactured and assembled in Les Breuleux, at the brand’s facilities. Its sublime precision can be viewed through its openwork caseback, a hallmark of the Richard Mille brand.
This model is available in four different combinations—5N red gold, titanium and black or white ceramic. It features an automatic winding movement, with a 50-hour power reserve irrespective of how much the chronograph is activated. It is a strikingly architectural watch offering true ease of use. Embodying pure mechanics and hand finishing, it is designed for everyday use.
It was evident that renowned artists such as choreographer Benjamin Millepied and composer Thomas Roussel would be needed to fully express in technical and artistic terms, the tremendous ambitions of this project. Like Richard Mille, both of these hybrid creators have built their oeuvre, W I T H I N, on a resolutely singular vision and an obsession with perfect timing and harmonious movement.
Be it in the realm of ballet or symphonic orchestra, Benjamin Millepied and Thomas Roussel both rely on a wealth of heritage and tradition to shape modern visions of their respective arts. They fashion singular works that powerfully combine the quintessence of their disciplines and their contemporary sensibilities. And it is precisely this hybrid synthesis of science and emotion that prompted them to embrace the watchmaking brand’s new project.
For their a work titled W I T H I N, Benjamin Millepied took place behind the camera this time, at the Joshua Tree, in the heart of sand and stone. This stark mineral environment exalts the nobility and beauty of the materials Richard Mille employs for its watches. Amidst this sublime decor, the dancers unfurl a choreography of cyclical parallels that sifts and winnows the seconds, clothing time and space with intense vitality and energy.
This mysterious setting, in which humanity appears to reconnect with our origins, was a perfect source of inspiration for Thomas Roussel. After sampling the watch’s chronometrice function, the compositor built a tempo around it, a musical rhythm anchored in the raw energy and abandon of the dancers. Around a whirlwind of vitality, he weaves a music redolent of origins, repetitive and mysterious. The composition was recorded by the fifty musicians of the prestigious London Symphony Orchestra in the studio at St. Luke’s church in London.
The RM 72-01 Lifestyle In-House Chronograph encapsulates the original movement.
Benjamin Millepied and Thomas Roussel – revisit space/time
Time is not just a technical concern. It’s also the loom on which great art is created. The accelerations, repetitions and breath-like motions of clocks constitute the pulse of living, dancing and sonorous artworks, the underlying rhythms of our life force. Richard Mille has embraced this vision of time to create a hybrid watch, a point where art and technology meet.
With its curves, warm colours and studied scaling, the RM 72-01 is in equal measure a high-technology device and a metronome of emotion. The latest timepiece from Richard Mille’s workshops is designed for people who believe that performance should not be achieved at the expense of feeling, and that even the best technology must meet the imperatives of elegance.
‘Piece by piece, I’m constantly working to perfect the art of choreography. This relationship to accuracy is something I share with fine watchmaking.’ Benjamin Millepied
The meeting
Only renowned artists could embrace such an ambitious project. Like Richard Mille, choreographer Benjamin Millepied and composer Thomas Roussel create works imbued with a unique power of imagination and an obsession with perfection.
In the tradition of great jewellers, their determination to achieve perfect balance and harmony in movement acts as a guide in their creative process. Every day, they are prepared to repeat the same movement a hundred times to produce the perfect gesture. ‘I fully appreciate the ascetic craftsmanship of Richard Mille’s work. I too like to think of myself and my dancers as craftsmen,’ explains Benjamin Millepied, choreographer, creator of the ballets for the film Black Swan, and former head of the Paris Opera, as well as founder of the L.A. Dance Project. Unsurprisingly, his comment rang true among the teams at Richard Mille.
And, like Richard Mille, Thomas Roussel and Benjamin Millepied have no qualms about using the latest technology in their creations, with technicity deployed as a means of transcending their discipline. In ballet and orchestral music respectively, Benjamin Millepied and Thomas Roussel both draw on heritage and tradition to bring their art to life in resolutely modern ways. They craft unique works that combine the quintessence of their discipline and their own, contemporary sensibilities. It’s this hybrid synthesis of science and human emotion that led them, almost logically, to become involved with this new project from the watchmaking House.
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Watchmaking and art
To the herald the new star in the Richard Mille firmament, the RM 72-01, the two artists decided to create a new and singular work, swiftly converging on the medium of film, W I T H I N. Benjamin Millepied stepped behind the camera for the occasion, and chose to shoot in the middle of the Joshua Tree desert, surrounded by the arid terrain of rocks and sand. ‘This project called for an endless landscape, out of time,’ explains Millepied. And indeed, the stark mineral environment exalts the nobility and beauty of the materials favoured by Richard Mille.
At the heart of a landscape fashioned by time and space, evocative of humanity’s earliest origins, Benjamin Millepied induces an expression of raw human energy. Each in turn, a female and a male dancer, respond to one another, unleashing their natural vitality via an unstructured and organic pas-de-deux. In the style of Terrence Malick, whose influence is palpable, the choreographer has superbly caught the couple’s spontaneous, instinctive movements. ‘I enjoyed filming such primal energy in a landscape like that. In order to capture something more alive, more real, more sincere, I purposefully gave them tremendous freedom.‘
‘Like orchestral music, Haute Horlogerie feeds on its own traditions, respecting very strict and precise rules. Based on this guidance, it is up to us to break down the codes and offer works that are singular.’ Thomas Roussel
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Metaphysics and watchmaking
This sublime environment proved inspirational for Thomas Roussel. And no surprise, the composer has for many years been fascinated by the metaphysical questions. In his 2015 opus, Prequell, for example, he set gravitational waves to music as a sign of the distortion of time. ‘Because the Richard Mille film project drew on space/time, I was drawn to it immediately. I created music where time dilates and duplicates itself, to fit the production. Inspiration is born of emotion’ explains Roussel. Starting from a sample from the watch’s stopwatch function, the composer then injects a tempo, a musical rhythm that matches the raw, unbridled energy of the dancers. Around a tourbillon of vitality, Thomas Roussel weaves a repetitive and mysterious primordial music. The percussion keeps the beat as though counting seconds. As a return to our roots, this joint work takes us back in time, to when the core elements of earth, stone and water served as the cradle of humanity. To fix this special piece in time, the composition was performed by the 50 musicians of the prestigious London Symphony Orchestra in a truly intimate and time-honoured setting, the recording studio at St. Luke’s Church in London. In its own way, the RM 72-01 itself embodies the primordial pulse of movement, this fusion of human bodies, sounds and time.
Technical project
The elegance of the RM 72-01 is also reflected in the technological prowess involved in creating it. Signalling the start of a new era, the RM 72-01 is the first watch in the history of Richard Mille to be equipped with a flyback chronograph that is end-to-end in-house. Drawing on a double clutch system with oscillating pinions patented by the brand, the chronograph makes this latest timepiece a truly exceptional object. The RM 72-01 Lifestyle In-House Chronograph reimagines tisets its own tempo, imposes its own rhythm and makes an indelible mark on its era.
In-house patented flyback chronograph – A unique design
The mechanism of the new RM 72-01 presents a unique, patented design that incorporates a double clutch system with oscillating pinions mounted on rockers. Thanks to their compact proportions, these pinions reduce the space taken up by the chronograph within the movement. This same movement has undergone numerous certification tests to confirm its reliability, its durability (accelerated five- and ten-year ageing simulations) and the solidity of its architecture (resistance tests with various impact intensities).
In a traditional chronograph (figure 1), with a horizontal coupling clutch, torque is transferred to the chronograph seconds (in green) by the movement’s seconds wheel (in red) by means of a coupling clutch (in yellow). The chronograph seconds then drives the minute counters (figure 2) through a multiplying gear train. Yet the seconds has the least energy of all the movement’s components and any disturbances affecting it will also impact the watch’s rate, the power reserve and the operation of the various other mechanisms.
Operation of the oscillating pinion
The new flyback chronograph architecture breaks ground by splitting the torque between the chronograph’s various counters. The display and the connection to the minutes are disengaged from the chronograph’s seconds wheel. The seconds and minute wheels of the movement (A) thereby permanently interlock with the lower teeth of the two oscillating pinions (B). However, when the rockers are moved, their upper teeth (C), which link to the chronograph’s seconds and minute wheels (D), engage or disengage depending on whether the chronograph is activated or stopped (E).
This invention represents a major advancement in the calculation of durations. The disassociation of the chronograph function from the daily time counter does not affect the rate of the base movement in any way when the chronograph is engaged. Whether the chronograph is activated or not, the power reserve remains virtually unchanged. Controlling the start, stop, flyback and reset functions in particular, these rockers are activated by a six-column wheel, the geometry of which optimises the simultaneousness of actions and the proper latching of functions, whilst guaranteeing the longevity of the settings.
Oscillating pinions
Comprised of a stem and two toothed wheels, the two oscillating pinions replace the large wheels normally found in traditional chronographs. Their upper teeth link to the seconds wheel (right-hand pinion) and minute wheel (left-hand pinion) of the chronograph.
Gear train of the chronograph minute counter
This new chronograph configuration limits the torque transferred from the base movement through the chronograph seconds. By separating the other counters from the chronograph seconds, the use of two oscillating pinions breaks this classic kinetic chain. There is a distinct advantage to transferring the torque directly from the barrel to the minute and hour counters as this energy is received at the source and is much greater. The performance of the movement as a whole is optimised as a result.
Richard Mille RM 72-01 Lifestyle In-House Chronograph Technical Specifications
IN-HOUSE CALIBRE CRMC1: skeletonised movement with automatic bidirectional winding and hours, minutes, small seconds, date, flyback chronograph, function indicator and stop seconds.
Case dimensions: 38.40 x 47.34 x 11.68 mm.
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MAIN FEATURES
POWER RESERVE
Circa 50 hours (±10%)
BASEPLATE AND BRIDGES IN GRADE 5 TITANIUM
The baseplate and the bridges are crafted in grade 5 titanium, a biocompatible, highly corrosion-resistant and remarkably rigid alloy, ensuring the gear train functions smoothly. The alloy is 90% titanium, 6% aluminium and 4% vanadium. The use of micro-blasted grade 5 titanium in combination with a grey electroplasma treatment confers great rigidity on the entire assembly and gives rigorously even surfaces. This combination enhances the alloy’s mechanical properties, which explains its frequent use in the aerospace, aeronautics and automotive industries.
The skeletonised baseplate and the bridges were subjected to long and exacting validation tests to ensure they meet the most rigorous standards applied to resistance and ageing.
DATE
Semi-instantaneous and displayed in a vertical aperture at 7 o’clock.
FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH WITH OSCILLATING PINIONS (PATENTED MECHANISM)
This new type of flyback chronograph, patented by Richard Mille, splits the torque between the chronograph’s various counters. The display and the connection to the minutes and hours are disengaged from the chronograph’s seconds wheel.
The performance of this chronograph is superlative. Drawing power directly from the barrel to supply the chronograph’s three counters, this heightened energy is transmitted to the chronograph train by a coupling system consisting of two oscillating pinions mounted on rockers. Controlling the start, stop, flyback and reset functions in particular, these rockers are activated by a 6-column wheel, the construction of which optimises the simultaneousness of actions and the proper latching of functions, whilst ensuring the longevity of the settings.
This invention represents a major advancement in the calculation of times. Less sensitive to disturbance and taking up less space than well-known mechanisms, the disassociation of the chronograph function from the daily time measurement means that the rate of the base movement is entirely unaffected when the chronograph is activated.
Using the pusher located at 4 o’clock, the running chronograph hand can be reset without first having to stop the mechanism. This system was originally developed for pilots to avoid losing time (and accuracy) due to stopping, resetting and restarting their chronographs when passing through waypoints.
When the chronograph function is active, the hours (24-hour counter) and minutes (60-minute counter) are visible via the two counters located at 5 o’clock and 2 o’clock, the elapsed seconds being indicated by the central seconds.
FUNCTION INDICATOR
Similar to a gearbox in a car, the function indicator displays winding, hand setting or date adjustment when then crown is pulled out. The selected mode is indicated by a hand situated at 3 o’clock: W (Winding) – D (Date) – H (Hand Setting).
FREE-SPRUNG BALANCE WITH VARIABLE INERTIA
This type of balance wheel guarantees greater reliability when subjected to shocks and also during movement assembly and disassembly, hence better chronometric results over time.
The regulator index is eliminated and a more accurate and repeatable adjustment is possible, thanks to 4 small, adjustable weights located directly on the balance.
ROTOR IN PLATINUM
By using a rotor in platinum with ceramic ball bearings in combination with a One Way® reverser system, the barrel can be optimally wound whilst keeping its size compact.
FAST ROTATING BARREL (5 HOURS PER REVOLUTION INSTEAD OF 7.5 HOURS)
This type of barrel provides the following advantages: – The phenomenon of periodic internal mainspring adhesion is significantly diminished, thereby enhancing performance. – Excellent delta of the mainspring curve with a power reserve that offers the ideal balance of performance and regularity.
GEAR-TEETH PROFILE
The entire going train of the calibre CRMC1 has been optimised by adopting a special profile for the teeth of the wheels to create a 20° angle of pressure. This pressure angle facilitates the work of the ball bearings and equalised any discrepancies that might arise between the axles of each wheel. These new gear trains ensure excellent torque transmission and hence optimum output.
SPLINE SCREWS IN GRADE 5 TITANIUM FOR THE MOVEMENT AND CASE
These screws enable better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. They are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly, and age well.
OTHER FEATURES
– Movement dimensions: 29.10 x 31.25 mm – Thickness: 6.05 mm – Number of jewels: 39 – Balance wheel: CuBe, 4 arms, 4 setting weights, moment of inertia 7.5 mg•cm2, angle of lift 50° – Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz) – Balance spring: AK3 – Shock protection: INCABLOC 908.22.211.100 (transparent)
CASE
The design and manufacture of the watch embody a global approach to the case, dial and every part of the movement.
Thus the timepiece is created as a harmonious whole according to extremely rigorous specifications. The casing ring is eliminated, and the movement is fixed to the chassis with four titanium screws and silent blocks (ISO SW). This shows the emphasis placed on uncompromising high quality.
This model is available in full grade 5 titanium, full 5N red gold, black TZP ceramic and white ATZ ceramic with the case band in 5N red gold. For each version, the pushers are in black TZP ceramic and 5N red gold.
The tripartite case is water resistant to 30 metres, ensured by three Nitrile O-ring seals. It is assembled using 20 grade 5 titanium spline screws and abrasion-resistant washers in 316L stainless steel.
CROWN
In 5N red gold and black TZP ceramic with a double O-ring and a collar in rubber.
UPPER FLANGE
In carbon fibre; hour-markers filled with an approved luminous material.
DIAL
In grade 5 titanium Thickness: 1.17 mm
CRYSTAL
Bezel side: in sapphire (1,800 Vickers) with anti-glare coating (both sides) Thickness: 1.00 mm Case back: in sapphire with anti-glare coating (on both sides) Thickness: 1.00 mm at the centre and 1,75 mm at the outer edges
FINISHING
MOVEMENT
– Micro-blasted and hand-polished chamfering for the bridges – Micro-blasted milled sections – Micro-blasted and hand-polished sinks for the bridges – Electroplasma treatment for the baseplate and the bridges
STEEL PARTS
– Satin brushed surfaces – Hand-polished chamfered edges – Hand-polished sinks – Drawn edges
PROFILE-TURNING
– Polished tips – Burnished pivots – Polished post faces
WHEELS
– Diamond-polished sinks – Diamond-polished angles – Circular finished faces – Rhodium plating (before cutting the teeth)
Richard Mille RM 72-01 Lifestyle Gallery
Richard Mille RM 72-01 Lifestyle In-House Chronograph Richard Mille has developed a new kind of watch. The RM 72-01 Lifestyle In-House Chronograph seeks to embody the watchmaker’s unrivalled know-how while making an indelible mark on its era as a work of art.
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watchilove · 4 years ago
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It is a rare material in Haute Horlogerie. An ancient technique that involves a savoir-faire as challenging as it is subtle. It is called Mokume-gane in Japan, where the method has been used for making katana sword blades since the 17th century. In the heart of the forge, the hammering and folding of layer upon layer of titanium is a craft reserved for the best. Three times as hard as steel, titanium is also wrought at much higher temperatures, between 1200 and 1400 degrees Celsius. The hues obtained through blueing-by-hand over an open flame are unique to each watch. The buyer is welcome to attend this finishing stage and choose the intensity of the colour effects – GENUS GNS1.2 TD Ever-changing Hours and Hues .
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After introducing a new way of looking at and telling time with orbital hours and minutes, which garnered the Mechanical Exception Prize at the most recent Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), GENUS explores the world of metal artisanship. The GENUS GNS1.2 TD is carved from a block of Damascene Titanium, the work of expert metalsmithing. Thus, the complex representation of time in flux belonging to GENUS finds itself echoed by the moiré, undulating, changing appearance where colour nuances make each piece unique by the very nature of this craft. A fusion of ancestral technique and modern material, an association between creator and wearer – GENUS takes an approach to watchmaking that truly defies the conventional.
GENUS GNS1.2 TD
Thinking differently, combining creativity as well as singularity, leaving the beaten track, inventing instead of replicating, stretching the ingenious whilst ensuring precision, reliability, legibility and wearability: In 2019, GENUS opened the first chapter of its story with two remarkable timepieces, the GNS1.2 WG and the GNS1.2 RG. Ten years of research, two inventions and three years of development went into this watch. Two patents lay down the basic principles of the two innovative mechanisms that underpin this free-flowing time display.
GENUS GNS1.2 TD
One in rose gold, the other in white gold, both measuring 43 mm in diameter and 13.1 mm thick, featuring the calibre 160W-1.2 or 160R-1.2, a new movement consisting of 418 components, entirely created and manufactured by GENUS in their Geneva workshop. It is a movement characterised first and foremost by its novel complication for indicating time. No dial, no hands. GENUS quite simply invented an unprecedented way of telling time – the mechanism as dramatic performance.
GENUS GNS1.2 TD
The innovation behind this display complication and its underlying mechanism was imagined, technically, in a completely new and daring way. A new stone humbly brought to the edifice of Swiss horological heritage by the man who invented it, the Master watchmaker Sébastien Billières. An approach first rewarded by the recognition of his peers by the attribution of the prestigious and coveted Mechanical Exception Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2019.
GENUS GNS1.2 TD
Twelve satellites, one for each hour. They make a complete revolution along the periphery of the movement, at the crystal’s edge, once every twelve hours. The fixed white arrow on the left, in front of which the satellites scroll, points to the current hour. To remain in the reading direction, the satellites re-orient themselves and pivot 90 degrees every 3 hours, i.e. four times. The hour numbers – moulded in SuperLuminova™ and affixed to the revolving time-indicating satellites – are the result of meticulous development and design.
GENUS GNS1.2 TD
Since the launch last year, the months have passed each other at a breath-taking pace, and nothing is the same anymore for the small, independent GENUS team – in much the same way that a GENUS watch is unlike any other existing timepiece.
A sentiment rendered even more concrete by the fact that in 2020, GENUS is presenting a new version of the GNS1.2 in a material virtually unheard of in watchmaking: damascene titanium.
It is a new chapter in the GENUS story, in more ways than one. The presentation of the new watch is also the occasion for announcing the digital certification of all its timepieces, an effective and modern means of combating counterfeiting and guaranteeing authenticity for the owner of the timepiece throughout its lifetime.
A Damascene moment
In 2020, GENUS re-imagines the GNS by incorporating it in a new metal case. After white gold and rose gold, GENUS ventures into new territory for watchmaking with a damascened titanium case, hence the name GNS1.2 TD (Titane Damassé). Applying the Damascus smithing technique to titanium requires a rare savoir-faire. In fact, the skill is listed in the Inventory of Intangible Cultural Heritage in France. It is craftsmanship elevated to art, true artisanship, the domain of only the best metalsmiths. In Japan it is called Mokume-gane, where it has been used to forge katana sword blades since the early 17th century.
Folds within folds upon folds…
The art of damascening consists of forging sheets of metal layer by layer. After having been hammered, each sheet is folded back upon itself, and the operation is repeated as many times as necessary – one might say like preparing the laminated dough used for puff pastry. This homogeneous ‘stacking’ of homogeneous layers, each one annealed between each fold, gives the material an entirely new, very particular aspect. Each incision, each bevel into the edge of the damascened metal reveals the strata, the shapes, the undulations, the unique character of each layer.
… and variations thereof
The difficult work, at the heart of the forge’s embers, of folding and layering is usually done with iron or steel for katana blades. Although 40% lighter, titanium is three times harder and can be forged at temperatures 300 degrees higher than for conventional watchmaking steel. This makes the method, which remains largely manual, quite laborious, and complex. In addition, to further enrich the appearance of this basic material, GENUS works with layers of various titanium alloys, each of which exhibits a different tint and reaction to heat. The colourful effect is rendered even more visually arresting by the final heat treatment that determines the general tone of the metal block, along with its subtle differences in tints and hues.
Bespoke colours and contrasts
Each part of the GNS1.2 TD’s casing is cut at an angle to achieve a different, unique appearance. GENUS then works to coordinate the different parts that make up a watch. Here, the intimate relationship between GENUS and the wearer again comes into play. Indeed, the future owner is invited to attend the ‘damascene revelation’ by open flame at the GENUS workshop in Geneva and will be able to intervene directly in the colouring as well as decide on a particular surface finish: matte, satin or polished. Only the owner shall be privy to the secrets of the manufacturing process and the artisans’ skills.
A movement preserved
At the core of the GNS1.2 TD, the same heart, the same brain as in theGNS1.2 WG – the 18K gold in-house calibre that was awarded the Mechanical Exception Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2019.
GENUS GNS1.2 TD
Creativity, innovation, singularity being the intrinsic values of GENUS, the calibre 160W-1.2 forms the natural foundation of this authentic, genuine, and sincere watchmaking approach.
Particularly attentive to its customers, and always receptive to their wishes and preferences, GENUS has made several adjustments to its masterpiece. For instance, the orientation of the ‘genera’ – the hallmark free-moving elements that flow in a pattern to indicate the tens-of-minutes – can now be personalised. They can be set straight or inclined, depending on the wearer’s aesthetic preference for the watch. This option can provide a more comfortable legibility for some owners.
In addition, GENUS adjusted the curvature of the sapphire crystal which eliminated the perceived ridges on the upper perimeter. This mitigates any visual distortion of the hour indices, thereby improving clarity of the timekeeping mechanism.
50 hours of power reserve
The architecture of the movement is indicative of the genetics of the GENUS project. The intrinsic principles of freedom, flexibility and future evolution are based on its separation in two parts. The base, which can be described as the foundation of the movement, groups the essential functions, including a single barrel. It ensures a 50-hour power reserve, which is considerable in view of the complexity of the calibre and the moving elements. On top of this are built the individual complication modules for managing the display of hours, and tens, and units of minutes.
Exclusivity at heart
All the components of the calibre 160W-1.2 have been designed and hand-worked by the watchmaker in accordance with the requirements and tenants of Haute Horlogerie. The main plate and bridges are made of 18K gold obtained through an ecologically and socially responsible supply chain, certified by the RJC (Responsible Jewellery Council). Another advantage: Gold has an anti-magnetic property and is therefore largely protected from the harmful influence of magnetic fields. Finally, gold lends itself extremely well to the finest finishing techniques.
Visible beauty
The surface finishing treatments of the 418 components of the calibre 160W-1.2 are at the heart of GENUS’ approach to watchmaking. Each and every tiny part has been worked and re-worked with the most meticulous care and in strict compliance with the requirements and standards of Haute Horlogerie. The escapement bridge is mirror-polished, as are the two beautiful arrow indicators that show the hours (at 9 o’clock) and minute units (at 3 o’clock), to name just a few of the many other components finished in this manner. The plate and the three bridges are micro-beaded, creating a matte effect that allows the glossy finishes to stand out against a contrasting background. All their edges have been bevelled and polished. The visually arresting effect is further enhanced by their shape with curves that vibrantly reflect any play of light.
Technical challenges
Behind the signature time display of GENUS is a succession of challenges that took ten years of gestation and three years of development. The two main inventions that distinguish the GNS timekeeping mechanism have patents pending: the rotating and peripheral display of the hour satellites, and the passage of the ‘genera’ from one analemma orbit to the other.
GENUS GNS1.2 TD
Coupling the ‘genera’ to the foci counter-rotating minute wheels was a major test. On the one hand, the ‘genera’ must be held in place; on the other, they must be able to move freely from one minute wheel orbit to the other, flowing in the figure eight of an analemma. An undertaking made all the more challenging by the fact that the changeover between the upper and lower orbits must take place with twelve ‘genera’ in a row, all without damaging or wearing the blued finishes of the minute wheels.
Consider the toothed wheel guiding the hour markers – one of the largest there is – with its teeth located on its inner edge. This large wheel must be perfectly flat – even after it has been precisely cut by electro-erosion wire, and hand-finished. Finally, an unrelenting, meticulous focus on reducing friction to a minimum to maximise power generation and energy distribution is undertaken to ensure running time that is compatible with current standards whilst feeding a complex mechanical timekeeping system.
Clients accustomed to Fine conceptual watches, who may have been scalded by past projects, probe the reliability of their movements with assiduousness. The integrity of GENUS, of its founders, is the best guarantee of its merit. Their combined experience as visionaries and entrepreneurs, creators and perfectionist risk-takers has established at the very heart of GENUS’ watchmaking culture, an innate drive to produce innovative watches that are different and reliable for many years to come.
Digital passport
To offer owners the GENUS guarantee of their timepiece’s authenticity and traceability throughout its life, GENUS has joined forces with the Arianee Project. It is an independent consortium whose mission is to establish a global standard for the digital certification of valuables. Based on blockchain technology, the decentralised and open source protocol offers a set of new services for the watch owner, which are directly accessible from the Certificate of Authenticity delivered with each GENUS watch.
The specifics of each timepiece, and in particular for bespoke orders, the sale and/or transmission to a new owner, the service book, proof of ownership/declaration of theft – the Arianee protocol allows GENUS not only to free itself from paper-based authentication (which can be counterfeited) of its timepieces, but above all guarantees its customers a traceability of their watch throughout their life, even if the ownership changes over time.
Thus, GENUS timepieces benefit from a unique and forgery-proof digital identity, a ‘Digital Passport’ if you will, accompanied by a photo of the acquired timepiece with its individual serial numbers (not just a catalogue photo), which opens up a new channel of communication – permanent, secure and anonymous – between the brand and the owner of the timepiece.
A long-term commitment
From the inkling of an idea for an original complication, from the drawing of a mechanism to the marvel of its functioning, GENUS meticulously, patiently, determinedly met each challenge and overcame each obstacle with uncompromising daily discipline and long-term perspective. A thoughtful evolutionary process that may well represent the greatest amount of work and effort in the making of a timepiece. From the outset, GENUS is an authentic expression of watchmaking, true to its own principles – one of which is to place the quality of the timepiece at the very centre of the challenge to assure its value.
This second chapter of the GENUS story opens with passion. A passion that pays homage to the Art of Watchmaking associated with the ancestral Art of Metalsmithing. It has shone a new light on ancient savoir-faire by propelling it into this age with a special material, damascene titanium. This perfectly embodies the spirit that has driven GENUS since the first day: To be part of the great Geneva watchmaking tradition, to cultivate this heritage of ingenuity, ancestral skills, the perfection of the ‘helping hand’, which together, delight the discerning connoisseur.
A remarkable first year
Since officially launching GENUS in June 2019, the brand’s co-founders, Sébastien Billières and Catherine Henry, had an extremely busy year. It began at a frantic pace with the registration of their masterpiece as an entry in the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) competition. This prestigious event served both as a launch pad and a media sounding board for GENUS. In September, the GNS1.2 WG was shortlisted by the GPHG jury, and in November 2019 it won the Mechanical Exception Prize. In this extremely prestigious and intensely competitive category, GENUS stood out among great, well-established names in Fine Watchmaking complications.
World tour
In September 2019, GENUS had embarked on a world tour to showcase its concept, its founders and its products. From Australia to Mexico and across most of Asia, GENUS made itself known to a select audience of connoisseurs, collectors, and enlightened aficionados as well as the most prestigious resellers in each country.
Retail representation
GENUS was also invited to participate in the launch of the Bucherer Gallery in Geneva, a haven of conviviality and hospitality established by this major watch retailer. GENUS then accepted the invitation to participate in Dubai Watch Week, where the brand was asked to develop and hold daily Master Classes. A few months later, the brand made its debut at the flagship boutique of Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons in the Dubai Mall, cementing the confidence of the leader in watch distribution in the Middle East. Recently, in Switzerland, the brand joined the highly sophisticated watchmaking selection showcased by famed retailer Les Ambassadeurs in their boutique on the exclusive Rue du Rhône in Geneva, the city where the story of GENUS began.
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GENUS GNS1.2 TD inclinés
GENUS GNS1.2 TD droits
GENUS GNS1.2 TD Technical Specifications and Price
DESCRIPTION
Collection: GNS 1
Watch name: GNS1.2
Material: TD (Titane Damassé – Damascene Titanium)
Watch reference: GNS1.2 TD
CASE
Material: Damascene Titanium
Diameter: 43 mm
Thickness: 13.1 mm
Crown: Damascene titanium, G-E-N-U-S letters in relief around its circumference
Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal with antireflective coating
Case back: Damascene titanium, screw-secured, sapphire crystal with antireflective coating
Water resistance: 30 metres (3 ATM)
MOVEMENT
Winding Manual
Calibre reference 160W-1.2
Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 7.7 mm
Components: 418
Rubies: 26
Frequency: 2.5 Hz or 18’000 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: About 50 hours
Regulating organ: Escapement with a Swiss anchor, hairspring, variable inertia balance wheel
TIME DISPLAY COMPLICATION
Hours: 12 satellites/peripheral and axial rotation indexes (patent pending)
Tens-of-minutes: 12 free-moving components circulate between 2 counter-rotating wheels (patent pending)
Units of minutes: Cut-away disc
Numbers & indexes: With SuperLuminova™
STRAP & BUCKLE
Leather: Calf leather, folded edge and hand-stitched, navy blue (Alligator upon request)
Buckle: Pin buckle in damascene titanium with the GENUS logo
Clasp: Fold-over clasp available upon request
SUGGESTED RETAIL PRICE
CHF 145’000.- Ex-works, without VAT
CONTACT GE Watches SA GENUS Rue du Rhône 114 CH-1204 Genève [email protected]
GENUS GNS1.2 TD
GENUS GNS1.2 TD inclinés
GENUS GNS1.2 TD droits
GENUS GNS1.2 TD Ever-changing Hours and Hues It is a rare material in Haute Horlogerie. An ancient technique that involves a savoir-faire as challenging as it is subtle.
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