#Roussillon wine Riberach Belesta tourism winetourism oenotourisme

[wineftw]

MY ROUSSILLON WINE SAFARI

A unique way to get up close and personal with wine

I got lucky: I got an invitation to go on a wine safari. Love that word, safari. I had visions of thwacking through thickets and straddling streams, pursuing my prey and bagging bunches of wild uh...  grapes. In real life I'm not much of a hunter, more of a gatherer, but the concept appealed so I said yes.

The safari in question was organised by Domaine Riberach. Situated in the very small village of Bélesta (population 214, in the Roussillon region of southern France), Riberach shows what can be done with a disused wine cooperative, a lot of vision, a shedload of elbow grease and some serious investment.

It's a great illustration of teamwork, too. Architect-partners Luc Richard and Karin Pühringer, Jean-Michel Mailloles (a local winegrower), oenologists Patrick Rodrigues and Guilhem Soulignac and Austrian sommelier Moritz Herzog have worked together to create a noteworthy example of wine tourism.

I'd heard plenty about the project (it opened in 2010) and was keen to see it for myself, so the safari seemed like the perfect opportunity. From my base in Montpellier it was a couple of hours' drive. For visitors from further afield, options include flying into Perpignan (30 km east of Bélesta) and picking up a hire car.

When I pulled up outside, I was very taken by the facade. Built in 1925, its charm was intact. So far, so authentic. Inside, a transformation has been worked. A great many of the original features have been carefully retained. Thoughtfully-placed windows allow visitors to gaze down into the working winery from the calm of the hotel space.

Ancient stone and concrete have been combined with contemporary metal, wood, slate and leather to transform an industrial space into a chic retreat with a focus on leisure and pleasure.

We were shown to our rooms, some of which were once concrete wine vats, meaning that the formerly functional has become a source of fascination (a neat trick, and a highly original proposition for wine-loving tourists). The complementary half bottle of Riberach's Synthèse was a nice touch.

With a couple of hours to kill before dinner, I took a look around. Visiting in October meant it was too cold to test the egg-shaped outdoor swimming pool but I ventured down to the basement to the spa which has been carved out of five concrete wine tanks. Hammam-like in look and feel, it's an attractive, intimate space where guests can unwind and enjoy a massage or beauty treatment.

Suitably relaxed and refreshed, it was time to dine. The restaurant (named La Coopérative) occupies the vast, airy space in the centre of the complex, where the wine presses once stood. A 7 metre-high window looks onto the patio and terraced gardens planted with olive trees, mimosa, rosemary and vines.

As you might expect, Bocuse d'Or France winner and Michelin-starred chef Laurent Lemal creates very classy cuisine. Our group had a wonderful dinner - the local oysters from Leucate served with Domaine des Soulanes's Kaya (a Grenache Gris/Grenache Blanc/Carignan Blanc blend) were a highlight - with wines expertly selected and served by sommelier Max Erpelding. Worth noting: almost all wines are available by the glass including Riberach's very first vintage (2006).  

After a restorative night's sleep and an excellent breakfast (the buffet was heaving with top-quality breakfast pastries, bread, biscuits and home-made jams), it was time to climb into the Riberach Land Rover with Luc Richard at the wheel.

First stop was the Pic d'Aubeil, a vantage point from where we took our bearings. The Riberach complex is situated midway up a valley beneath the medieval chateau of Bélesta. The village lies between the Agly and Têt valleys, with surrounding hillsides rising to 400 metres. We could make out the Pyrenees and the Canigou peak on one side, and the Corbières, Bugarach and the Mediterreanean (just) on the other.

Luc briefed our group on the area's history (Bélesta was once the border between the Catalan and French kingdoms) as we drove on to the pre-Roman chapel of St Barthélémy de Jonquerolles and then the dolmen of Moli del Vent, estimated to date back to -2500 BC. 

After stepping back in time, we moved forward into the vineyards.

Here, we had an explanation of the various soil types (schist, sandstone, limestone and granite) on which Riberach's 10 hectares of vines are planted, the altitude effect (their plots are at 250 - 400 metres) and the effect of these different terroirs on the resulting wines.

At midday we paused in a shady spot by a stream for a snack of charcuterie, cheese and a welcome glass of wine (Riberach’s rouge N° 12 is a great quaffer).

Then, suitably restored, we headed back to the village for a BBQ and tasting with Luc and his colleagues.

There  was something deeply satisfying about sampling the wines outdoors, right after walking in the vineyards in which they originated. Luc served them with simply grilled, fresh local produce which he cooked himself with evident pleasure.

The day's activities ended with a look at the winery where the Riberach team makes around 40,000 bottles per year (the fibreglass tanks installed within the original concrete tanks are an unusual feature). 

Then to finsh, we popped into the wine shop and tasting room where Riberach wines are sold along with those of around 30 neighbouring organic, biodynamic or natural growers, all at cellar-door prices.    

We tasted our way throught the playfully-named Riberach range (four reds, three whites) of Thèse, Antithèse, Hypothèse, Synthèse, Parenthèse... and yes, Fouthèse (a French play on words: the name sounds like foutaise, meaning “nonsense”).

Grape-wise, Riberach grows Grenache Noir, Syrah and old vine Carignan Noir for the reds, and Maccabeu, Grenache Gris, Carignan Gris and Carignan Blanc for the whites. My personal favourite was Hypothèse Blanche, a varietal wine made from Carignan Gris and remarkable for its refreshing, citrus-fruit profile as well as its rarity (apparently there are only 60 hectares of this grape variety left in the whole of France, of which one hectare is at Riberach), but all are well worth tasting.

Wine Safari at Riberach

Saturday mornings from June to September. Vineyard tours by Land Rover with commentary on vine development and harvest. Picnic (Catalan charcuterie, local cheese, fresh seasonal fruit, Riberach wines). BBQ and grilled snails (cargolade) available on request. The safari ends with a guided tasting in the Riberach N'Co wine shop. Cost: 75€/per person with picnic, transport, guide, visit and drinks included. Safari with BBQ lunch (weather and numbers permitting): 90€/per person; cargolade 110€/per person. Safari groups are minimum 4, maximum 8 (12 on request). Tours are conducted in French, English, German and Spanish.

Domaine Riberach re-opens after its annual winter break on

Saturday April 1st, 2017.

Tel. +33 (0)4 68 50 30 10

www.riberach.com