#Plus the people sharing these straight up lie and fabricate information sometimes
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bijoumikhawal · 7 months ago
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The Blue and Red Caftan of Jean-Francois Portaels
Or as I like to call it, griping about uncritical (and at times, maliciously misattributed) use of historical images in costume research, especially from Orientalists. I recently came across images 2 and 5 being reposted as Egyptian historical fashion. While the women in these two paintings wear necklaces similar to Egyptian ones, the style of necklace itself was popular across a VERY broad region (I believe I've even seen Balkan necklaces of a similar style). In painting 2 Portaels does not specify where the woman depicted is from, though the title of 5 indicates the depiction intends to be of a woman from Cairo.
In the first image, I can tell you the woman is Moroccan (her earring and under caftan are pretty distinct), though he does not specify this. Woman 2 is wearing what looks to be a yelek, which would indicate she's Egyptian, if we assume she's North African. Woman 5 is probably also wearing a yelek, but the cut looks oddly loose. The difference between the yelek and the caftans more common to the Maghreb is that a yelek is of a tighter cut, and has a low, oval neckline that potentially can reveal cleavage, which is found on a few other contemporary Egyptian garments. In practice, the yelek itself was often hidden under another garment, and usually had an underdress covering the chest, despite depictions otherwise. The exception would be dancers and certain other professions.
Further, the decoration and shape of the garment do not resemble Egyptian garments. A tob sebleh, to my understanding, would have a longer sleeve. The embroidery and cordwork are somewhat unusual and look more Maghrebi, though it's harder for me to judge this definitively as it's hard to find enough detailed photos of Egyptian cordwork to form a general impression. Additionally, I feel like I've seen a Tunisian men's garment that looks almost exactly like this, but in white with gold cord.
Frankly, given this caftan shows up so often, I think it was a real garment Portaels had, and I don't think he cared about where it was from when choosing to paint it. He was an Orientalist painter, and while some of that school painted with great accuracy and humanity, their work always needs to be carefully judged. My guess is that the garment is of Maghrebi origin. It is the sartorial centerpiece of most of these paintings, wfich is why though details of 2 and 5 are accurate enough, I find myself mildly annoyed that these are being shared without context.
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ethelbertpaul444-blog · 7 years ago
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36 of the Handiest Gadgets on Amazon
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