#Michigan Chore Coat (Spring)
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#Michigan Chore Coat (Spring)#$208#Yosemite / Black#'Dearborn' Canvas#Color Options#Carhartt WIP Michigan Chore Coat (Spring) in Black (rinsed)#Greatest Hits T-Shirt#$58#Black / White#Carhartt WIP Greatest Hits T-Shirt in Black / White#Carhartt WIP Greatest Hits T-Shirt in White / Black
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My parents kicked me out May 21st 2015. That was the greatest mercy they ever gave me. My mother lost custody of my brother and I in 2006 and we went to live with my father and stepmother. They were not abusive initially. Strict, sure... but not abusive. The abuse didn’t begin until I began high school in Goodrich. Once I became aware I wasn’t heterosexual it became an issue. While my parents are Christian... I wouldn’t say that my parents were overly religious. We rarely went to church aside from a brief fad my stepmother went through where we did go frequently. However they were embarrassed. They didn’t want that to come out, didn’t want me to come out. Tried the whole “you’re confused” thing.
Growing up I wasn’t allowed to have a cellphone or computer or anything. Not that it’s required for a child to have them... however for a teen becoming sexually aware of things I decided to explore those things in the only place I had technology available to me - school. Naturally the school found out and made my parents aware. That was the biggest problem my parents had with me, I think. Was that I watched porn. They treated me like I was disgusting. The closer to graduation the more abusive they became. The physical was minor. They were smart enough to not leave bruises. Smacking or hitting my scalp. My father once kicked me. Shoved my face into the snow so I couldn’t breathe. He dragged me to the backyard by the collar of my coat and continued to hit me. My stepmother made my brother watch.
My father was not the primary abuser. That was my stepmother. She degraded me. Made me feel like I was shit beneath the feet of the world. I was the first person in my graduating class to get accepted into college. There was no congratulations. Instead she said “of course they took you, you’re a bait boy” meaning that because I would be relying completely on student loans that I was a profitable transaction for the university. At least that’s what I think she meant. Nothing I ever did was good enough. I was already tainted to her. They assured me that I was a loser. That I wouldn’t amount to anything. I’d end up on the street and starved to death. Not only did she say these things... she made me feel that these things were what I deserved. Told me that these things were what I deserved. For many months even after moving out I couldn’t look in a mirror without saying those things to myself. They were said that often that they were ingrained into me.
The biggest physical abuse from her was when she was pestering me about where I was going to live with when they kicked me out. She said don’t bother with my grandparents... they were old and had enough problems without me adding to them. I just continued picking up the chicken shit (cleaning the chicken coop was my chore) just kinda existing as a husk meant to follow orders. She wanted a response. I wasn’t acknowledging her. She grabbed me by the neck and slammed me against the wall and held her fist in my fast and demanded an answer. To this day I wish I wouldn’t have answered her. I wish she would’ve punched me. It would’ve given me the proof I needed. But I was scared and I said “you’re right.” She let me go and went back to the house.
My brother and I were often pitted against each other. One of us was “the golden child” and got the extra privileges. Got the better snacks. Got more privileges like getting to watch tv. The other was the bad child. They got treated like shit. Degraded. Even sometimes lost the “privilege” of a mattress. The golden child was rewarded for exposing the “bad behavior” of the bad child.
I think it’s worth mentioning we were not bad kids. We weren’t given the opportunity to be bad kids. Never did drugs, never drank, didn’t have sex. I can count on one hand the times I was allowed to go out with friends. Allowed to go to school functions like dances or sports. We went to school, came home, worked, and went to bed. I hated weekends and snow days. That meant I had to be home. School was the escape. School was safe. I loved going to school. Tell me a ”normal” kid who loves going to school.
The other big issue was food. At one point it got so bad that they were only allowing me to eat 1 cup (actually measured out) of oatmeal (plain) in the morning and 1 pack of ramen at night. I was hungry. I always asked my friends for their scraps at school. I once took a class at the schools store and resorted to stealing food from it (I’ve never admitted that to anyone for fear of being held accountable however it’s been years and I’m not sure what they’d do at this point. I always told myself that when I had money I’d pay the school back but I couldn’t even tell you the dollar amount of what I stole and ate daily. It’s probably hundreds of dollars) On the chance my parents did cook dinner it was cooked in bulk and that was the meal for the next week or week and a half. Sometimes the food would go bad before it was finished. That didn’t matter. We had to eat it anyway. To this day I cannot eat spaghetti because the spoiled taste is so fresh in my mind. My father once grilled chicken and accidentally burned it. That became a meal for us because they wouldn’t eat something like that. They had their own food. Their own meals. Their own cupboards full of food. We were not allowed to eat it. Occasionally we would get brave enough to take some anyway. Not enough to be noticed. Just a little bit to tide us over. However sometimes being careful was not always enough and there was hell to pay for being caught.
Probably less than 6 months before being kicked out (it was towards the end of winter before spring in 2015) I realized that the end was near. That this wasn’t forever. That they really didn’t control me. I worked up the courage to tell my high school counselor. She reported it. She got the school to give me free lunch and breakfast without telling my parents. I don’t hold anything against her... I think she did was she was supposed to do. The person who got assigned our case (I don’t remember her name) was waiting for me at the house later that day. My stomach dropped. I thought I’d at least have a few days to prepare myself for her arrival. She talked to my brother and I. Talked to my parents. But nothing ever came of it. I didn’t have bruises. And I couldn’t prove that I didn’t have access to the food in the house. I’m 5’10 and weighed roughly 110 lbs. But my parents were smart. They said oh high metabolism. Or that I just didn’t eat that much. Anyone who knew me at the time would say I was an eating machine. Wouldn’t stop eating.
The effects of what was done are permanent. I’ve been diagnosed with PTSD. It has been 5 years and I still have recurring nightmares where I’m stuck there. I’ve never pursued anything because cps wasn’t help so it was clear no one took it serious. I was raped in 2016 and the police didn’t take that serious either. I’m sure there’s a statue of limitations on these things anyway. I gave up on bringing them.
This is why I started my business and got involved in activism for queer youth.
Thank you for hearing my story.
#comingout #ptsd #childabuse #gay #goodrich #michigan #mentalabuse #mystory
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Raising Sheep For Profit: How to Sell Raw Fleece
By Bonnie Sutten – When I first started raising sheep for profit, raw fleece sales were on the bottom of my priority list. I thought that if I was raising sheep for wool, it was the processed roving or other products that would be the way to go. I spent a lot of time and money, believing that raw wool would not be profitable.
When we purchased the CVM/Romeldale sheep over other sheep breeds, we were very excited about their ability to produce a unique and beautiful wool, and we were soon flooded with requests to buy raw fleece. Today, the sale of our raw fleece now stands at about 40% to 50% of my total wool sales. From the beginning of our work in raising sheep for profit, our farm set a goal to continue to raise this breed with the handspinner in mind. This starts with not putting any wool into spinner’s hands that does not first meet strict preparation guidelines.
Because of this, we never sell any fleeces on shearing day. There is never time that day to thoroughly skirt a fleece, and if you sell it to someone and they take it home and show someone else, that unskirted fleece is going to represent your farm to the public. Sure, they can reserve it, but it won’t leave our farm until it is skirted and has our stamp of approval. It just isn’t worth it, plus, you would have to lower the price considerably if you were going to sell an unskirted fleece by the pound.
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I am a handspinner, and have purchased my fair share of raw wool. As a wool customer, as well as a wool producer, I have learned there are definitely various degrees of wool available for purchase. It is disappointing to send money for a product, along with shipping charges, and open the box and find a fleece that is less than a quality product. In some purchased fleeces I have found burrs and sticks, large hay and straw pieces, numerous second cuts, and even manure tags (feces) from the animal. In one particularly bad incident, I opened a box of wool and it was all felted together!
In raising sheep for profit, we choose a breed of sheep renowned for its superior wool production so it has been important for us to treat the sales of this wool with utmost care. When someone buys raw fleece from our farm, they are only getting the best part of that fleece. For our prices, which range from $18.00-$25.00 per pound, we only put on the scale and into the box prime wool that has been hand skirted (wool that has been covered while on the animal, and skirted with a “fine tooth comb”).
At the same time, with all the time and effort that I have put into raising sheep for profit, the cost of my fleece reflects my 365-day investment. I want buyers to see the quality that particular animal has the ability to produce. I also understand that my customer is going to form an opinion – in many cases, of the entire breed – by my fleeces. It is not fair, but it is true. I do this myself if I buy a bad fleece from a particular breed, and I have to force my self to try again from a different breeder of that same breed.
Preparing a Fleece
Cover your investment. By this I mean, literally, cover your sheep with a sheep coat for the cleanest possible fleeces. There are some breeds out there that do not do well covered (like the Icelandic), but the majority do very well. Matilda coats, which we use on our sheep, are lightweight, breathable fabric that reflects the sun and UV rays to prevent sun damage, and keep the sheep cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. By using these coats, there are no sun-bleached tips that can break off, and the wool does not rot from having snow and ice on the sheep. We have only needed to remove these when our Michigan summer has been in the 100s and extremely high humidity. Romeldales do very well in our climate, and they do very well with the coats on to protect their wool.
Remember: Even though I am focusing on CVM/Romeldale sheep, most other sheep breeds can be covered with sheep coats, as well as Angora goats and alpacas. If you do not cover your sheep, you must feed and house your animals in the most efficient way to keep fleeces from being destroyed by the elements and contamination.
The beginning of the cycle is the day your sheep are shorn; the work begins all over again.
A sheep, by nature, is designed to produce wool. You need to offer optimum nutrition when considering what to feed sheep, and plenty of fresh water year round. I had heated water in all my pens this year and the fleeces have never looked nicer. I know there are many people who say they do fine on snow, but when you feed animals dry hay, they need water to properly aid digestion and kidney function. They also require adequate shelter and living conditions.
A deworming and vaccination program is necessary, as well as keeping all diseases out of your flock such as sore mouth and foot rot. A sheep can’t produce quality fiber if its immune system is constantly taxed by disease, not to mention that it is immoral and unethical to sell any product from a contagious animal.
The Harvest
The optimum time for a ewe to be shorn is shortly before or after lambing: The event can cause a break in the wool which can compromise the integrity of the wool fibers. About a year later, (sometimes more or less, depending on the growth rate of your breed’s wool) you can finally reap the rewards of all your hard work.
Take a look at your fleeces, feel them, lay them out and really inspect them. Now pat yourself on the back for all your hard work and dedication to produce the best fleece your animal can grow.
You should have before you a lustrous, clean, healthy-looking fleece. The fiber locks should ping with strength when you tug on them from either end, not make a tearing sound or break in half. They should smell like a sheep, not like manure or urine. If they have been getting fresh air and have clean living quarters, you should smell the proof in the fleece. If your fleece is not up to these standards, that fleece needs to go in the junk box used for felting or quilt batts, mulch, or insulation, but should not be sold to handspinners.
When the fleece is shorn off of the animal you should remove any of the manure tags or soiled fleece. Store the fleece in a container that allows air to circulate through it. My preference is cardboard boxes with loose fitting tops. These can be labeled with a permanent marker and stacked in an area that is free from moisture and pests.
Skirting a Fleece
Just because our fleeces are covered, it doesn’t mean all the work is eliminated. When you skirt a fleece, get comfortable; you are going to be there for a while. Find an area with good lighting, either outside or inside. Personally, in the cold spring months, I skirt my fleeces inside. I lay a bed sheet out on the living room floor and put in a good movie. Many people would prefer to do this chore outside, especially if you have a special area just for this task. You can build a really nice skirting table with a mesh screen top so the small pieces of vegetation fall out easily onto the ground. Even though my sheep are covered, my fleeces take me a minimum of 45 minutes to an hour to completely skirt and prepare.
Since I skirt most of my fleeces a few days after shearing, they are free of mildew, stains and other problems associated with storing fleeces for a long period of time. I recommend that if you can’t get to your fleeces right away to process or spin, at least lay them out flat to let them air dry in a protected area to remove any moisture from them.
First, lay them cut side down and remove all the big pieces of vegetable matter (VM)-hay, grass, straw, sticks, etc. After you get that done, make sure you tear off all the belly wool and heavily contaminated neck wool and discard. Many times the shearer will throw that off to the side so it never gets mixed in, but in case he didn’t, double check. Also, remove any britch wool, if your fleece has it. It is best described as “hair” that is coarse, straight wool on the lower parts of the sheep and on the back leg. Britch wool is not desired by handspinners and should be put in the junk box, which as I mentioned, is for non-spinning projects.
Next, flip the wool over and remove any second cuts the shearer left. There should be a minimum of these if you have a good shearer. Second cuts are created when the blades are passed over the same area twice and have left stubble (short pieces) in the wool. These produce bothersome neps (lint-like blobs) in the yarn and finished products and are very irritating to handspinners.
Finally, to get to the prime wool, select out the areas that the coat has covered, and set them aside. This is “prime wool” and can now be sorted out to sell to handspinners. The remaining wool that was not covered by the coat will vary from sheep to sheep as to what its destination will be. Our non-covered wool is usually graded into two types, “roving quality” and “batt quality.”
The roving quality will have a low amount of VM that is not embedded in deeply into the fibers and has a minimum length of three inches. If it has any dirt on the tips it will still be suitable for roving; the heat and detergent will remove that. (Editor’s note: “roving” is wool whose fibers have been straightened and made parallel to each other by the process of carding, forming a sort of loose “rope” of wool up to about an inch in diameter.) If it is shorter than three inches I put it into a different group, to have wool batts made out of it for craft projects and quilting.
Packaging Your Wool
Your product must be appealing! I can’t stress this enough, especially if you’re raising sheep for profit from the sales of wool and fleece. Imagine yourself as the recipient of your wool and picture opening it for the first time. Do you want to say “Wow!” or do you want to hurry and close it back up, throw it in the closet, and hide it from your spouse so you’re not embarrassed you spent good money on your wool? Personally, I have had both reactions with wool that I have bought from someone else. Needless to say, I never buy again from the people who sold me the latter type.
First, find a nice, medium-weight box. I like to use ones that are just plain, cardboard boxes. I find it in poor taste to receive wool in a toaster box or crock pot box, but maybe that is just me. Also, these types of printed boxes are generally heavier, and I don’t feel it is fair to have to pay shipping for heavy packaging. I think it better to search a little and use a plain box with minimal print on it.
Now, you are ready to fill it. Take a container and weigh it empty so you can subtract the weight from the wool. As you start selecting wool from your pile, look it over well, in case you have missed VM, second cuts or second quality wool the first time around.
If the fleece is variegated, spotted or patterned, make sure you have indicated that in your description of the fleece. Now you are going to have to try and have a complimentary color scheme if they have ordered less than the full fleece. Try to keep the colors similar so that if it is used for a project they won’t get really dramatic color variations unless they have requested that.
After you have weighed out the proper amount, place it in the box. Make sure the box is big enough to accommodate the wool without damaging it, but don’t over-package it with too large a box, either. I like to line my boxes with tissue paper. It keeps the wool from poking out as you are trying to tape it up and it also looks neater and compliments the contents. If there is fiber from more than one animal, separate it with tissue paper and make sure you label which animal is which with a small piece of paper or a label on the tissue.
You can pack wool pretty tightly, pushing it gently down to get the air out of it. When the box is opened, it will fluff up again. I tape the invoice right on the top of the tissue so they can find it easily when they open the package. Include an address inside, just in case your package is damaged or the label is lost.
Finally, label the package clearly with a neatly addressed label. I make a point to ask customers how they want their package shipped, because some carriers work better to different parts of the country. Then you can get the approximate shipping cost from the internet or phone so you can let the buyer know.
Money Matters When Raising Sheep for Profit
I know too many small producers who are too trusting and ship the item and never see the money. Always collect the money before shipping the wool! Many fiber producers are honest people and they assume the rest of the world is as honest as they are. Unfortunately, this is not always true. Let your customer know the total including shipping costs and then wait for them to send payment before shipping their order.
Some small businesses have invested in a credit card machine and can process orders more quickly when they can take a credit card. We have not yet made this investment, but if our farm business continues to grow, we may consider it for the future.
Getting Still More Business
You may want to include extras in your package. A photo and information about the animal that produced the fiber they bought, a fiber sample card, roving sample, soap sample, brochure or other small item would be great. You have a captive audience with this customer, and you have the perfect opportunity to present your other products from your farm.
Repeat customers are so important in this business. Remember, you have produced the best, most cared-for fleece; now you need to present it in its best light.
A nice gesture is to include a stamped return postcard for their comments and questions. You can also use that opportunity to have them complete a survey about what their preferences are in buying a fleece. You can target your market and next year know more information about your customers. You might even want to send them a few extra business cards so they can share your name with friends.
Remember to rate your final package on the “Wow!” scale. If you don’t think it is a wholehearted “Wow!” then you have more work to do.
Although I am so partial to my CVM/Romeldale sheep, I do love to spin many other breeds of sheep. I firmly believe if you have selected a breed you truly love when you’re raising sheep for profit, you can achieve good if not excellent prices for your wool if you follow careful business practices.
There is no shortage of wool in this country, but there is a shortage of outstanding wool for handspinners. Cover your fleeces, keep your sheep in tip-top condition, prepare and package your fibers with the utmost attention to detail, and you will find your wool sales booming.
Originally published in sheep! July/August 2003 and regularly vetted for accuracy.
Raising Sheep For Profit: How to Sell Raw Fleece was originally posted by All About Chickens
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The Many Haunted Places in California
Ghosts & the Supernatural – Deanna Jaxine Stinson and I, have been involved with the paranormal, since the time we were children. Deanna has explored many places in California and so have I. Below are a list of haunted places in California, that either Deanna and I, did a lookie loo or stopped by to do a semi-investigation. We either did this together or did this separately. Special Note: If it wasn’t for Brad Steiger and his many books, I would not be the person that I am today. Thank you Brad. Now let’s look at the list:
Rockville Cemetery – 4219 Suisun Valley Road, Fairfield, CA: Date: 6/9/2018 – Time: 1500 Hours. Present: Deanna Jaxine Stinson, me and one more investigator that does not want his name disclosed. Deanna being a sensitive, picked up on an Asian woman ghost walking around by a tree. We looked in the area that Deanna pointed out and discovered a gravesite that read Wendy Strickland and then some Chinese writing. Wendy’s last name must be a married surname. Deanna picked up on a little boy ghost wearing a long adult type of shirt that hung past his waist. I captured an EVP of a boy saying “here”. The voice that said “here” was talking during the time I was talking. Deanna even saw a ghostly squirrel. We captured a Class A EVP that says either: “keep it” or “the Keeper”. We captured another EVP that says to me: “shut up man”. We may have witnessed a ghostly head peering from behind a building. Below are the videos and pictures from this investigation, listen to some of the EVPs and you can be the judge.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=G368S8Y5u_4&feature=share www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQg8j_R_JiE&feature=youtu.be www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9mEyvWNkok&feature=youtu.be www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSArOST67Zk&feature=youtu.be www.youtube.com/watch?v=ncZ2x7rp128&feature=youtu.be
Port Costa is a town on the Carquenez Straights by Crockett, Rodeo. The road that is legend/myth is Port Costa Road off Highway 4 in Contra Costa County / On this road people have heard blood curdling screams, horses galloping, people arguing. They have also seen shadowy figures moving along the landscape.
The Falkirk Mansion – San Rafael. The bushy haired boy ghost is seen walking around the garden area. Legendary Ghost: Bushy Haired Boy Ghost.
Wright’s Station – Wrights, CA – An old gray haired man is seen walking around and he has asked a few people for some extra pocket change. When a tourist is about to give him some money, he vanishes. Ghost Identified: The Old Man Beggar.
Dutch Flat Hotel – Dutch Flat, CA – Coat Tail Man is sometimes seen. A male ghost with black jacket and coat tails. Legendary Ghost: Coat Tail Man.
Jeffrey Hotel – Coulterville – Creature with red eyes is sometimes seen crawling on the rooftop of the hotel. Legendary Ghost: Red Eyed Roof Crawler.
Mormon Emigrant Trail Road – Old Iron Mountain Road . Ghostly settlers are seen walking the trail. Legendary Ghosts: Old Iron Mountain Phantoms.
Town of Locke – I sent a scouting party to this location and we got some unusual orb activity. There are many stories in the town of Locke , like the Bok Bok Man (a ghost that makes tapping sounds during certain hours of the night). Legendary Ghost: Bok Bok Man. Legend has it that in the 1800s, an old Chinese man with a lantern would walk around the town of Locke, waking people up to go to work, he would hit a iron bowl with a stick, he was known as the Bok Bok Man. People to this very day, still hear the sounds of bonging on an iron bowl in the early morning hours.
Town of Buena Vista – This whole town is haunted. Lady in a long pink dress is sometimes seen in and around Buena Vista . Legendary Ghost: Lady in Pink.
Folsom Powerhouse – I personally investigated this nightclub. Captured some intelligent moving orbs. Daniel Sanchez says that one time at 4am, he was walking past the place and saw partying people come out of this establishment and as he watched, they just disappeared. Ghosts Identified: Folsom Powerhouse Ghostly Party Goers. www.powerhousepub.com
Potter School – Sonoma County – This is where Alfred Hitchcock’s The Birds movie was filmed at and Potter School is reputed to be haunted. The laughter of school children is sometimes heard in the late evening hours. Legendary Ghosts: Laughing School Children.
Ralston Hall Mansion – Notre Dame de Namur University. Ghostly black Doberman pincher has been seen. Legendary Ghost: The Doberman.
Pinky’s Bar and Grill: Nancy Bradley and Gold Rush Ghosts investigated this haunted location. Nancy wrote about it and her story starts off like this: “The weather could not have been more frightful, terrible, unaccommodating and spooky, the night of December 1, 2008 as we approached our destination, Pinky’s Bar and Grill. Located at the Verona Village Resort on the beautiful Sacramento River a few miles north of Sacramento , California , we had been told the place had stories to tell. Nestled directly on the water in a little hamlet called Nicolas, it should not have been a chore to get there from our Gold Rush Ghosts Paranormal Headquarters in Placerville , about 30 miles away in the heart of the Gold Rush Country. But this day was different.” When I investigated Pinky’s Bar and Grill, one of my investigators saw a wet fisherman. As they watched the wet fisherman, he simply vanished. Ghost Identified: The Wet Fisherman. A local confirmed that there is indeed a ghost of a fisherman that haunts this area.
Murphy’s Hotel in Murphy’s CA (gold country): Very haunted hotel. A woman wearing a green dress has been seen roaming the halls. When I investigated Murphy’s Hotel, I captured 3 EVPs, one EVP was a Class A and the EVP said: “Why don’t you get!!” Ghost Identified: The Green Dress Woman.
Nevada City – Many locations are haunted in Nevada City . The ghostly fireman is sometimes seen. When he appears he acts like he is looking at the rooftops of buildings. Legendary Ghost: The Fireman Ghost.
Crockett – many locations of this town are haunted. A ghostly white horse is sometimes seen galloping through the main street of Crockett. Legendary Ghost: The White Horse of Crockett.
Michigan Bluff – Chinese immigrant workers in the 1800s fell off a cliff and are said to haunt a certain hillside at Michigan Bluff. Legendary Ghosts: Chinese Immigrant Workers.
Opera House – Montague: Ghost of woman opera singer is sometimes seen on stage. Legendary Ghost: Opera Singer Ghost.
Joseph Grant Park, on Alum Rock 6 miles from the summit/Lick observatory on Mt. Hamilton . Haunted by hippie girl that was murdered there. Legendary Ghost: Joseph Grant Park Hippie Girl.
Alameda Insane Asylum – Extreme haunting activity. A ghost hunting group called The Determined Paranormal Hunters claim that they saw 3 men in white robes yelling and screaming and as they watched these 3 men, they walked right into the wall and vanished. When I was at this location, I captured an EVP of screaming noises. Ghosts Identified: The Screaming Trio.
Keddie Resort – Plumas County – Brutal murders took place in Cabin #28. Extreme haunting activity. I captured an EVP of a woman screaming.
Andleberry Estate & Sanatorium – 2604 Clovis Avenue , Clovis , CA 93613 . Extreme haunting activity. A ghostly nurse is said to walk the hallways and peer into various rooms, she has a stern look on her face. Ghost Identified: Andleberry Nurse.
Columbia Hotel in Columbia : Old time cowboy gambler seen at hotel, dropping cards to the floor. The cards will dissipate when they touch the floor. Legendary Ghost: The Cowboy Gambler.
A Fan Writes: “I was reading your HPI web page and some of your investigations, and I am curious to know if you’ve ever investigated the Vineyard House on Cold Springs Rd in Coloma , CA . I was employed as a security patrol officer in the mid-90’s and the vacant (at that time) Vineyard House was on my route. I experienced many strange goings-on both inside and outside while patrolling the grounds there. The Coloma Pioneer cemetery is directly across Cold Springs Rd from the house and has been documented to be very haunted, was even investigated by the psychic Sylvia Brown some years back. The whole area, according to the owners of the market down the road from the Vineyard House, has more than its fair share of hauntings. Might be good practice for you to check out some of them.”
MORE HAUNTINGS: Gilroy / Highway 152 (Blood Alley) There have been numerous sightings of a woman searching for her child, hearing the sound of a stage coach and the snorting and breathing of horses, and a rumor that a woman was killed by a truck driver and she appears in the passenger seat of a truck, screams, and then vanishes.
Mt. Madonna State Park, 7850 Pole Line Rd. Mansion ruins and surrounding areas are haunted by former owner Henry Miller and his daughter. The daughter has been seen in open fields riding a horse. She was killed on site when she fell off of a horse and broke her neck. There have been ghostly observations of a girl on a horse and she will disappear in front of your eyes. Strange mist has been seen in the hills for decades. Ghost Identified: Henry Miller and The Girl and Her Horse.
South Valley Jr. High School, 385 IOOF Ave. Inside the old ROP building, footsteps were heard in the hallway by the nightshift employees. Upon investigating, no one was located in or around the area. Ghost Identified: The South Valley Jr. High School Walker.
Joshua Tree / Joshua Tree Inn, 61259 Twenty-nine Palms Highway / The Inn is the place where rock star Gram Parsons (of the 1960s band, The Byrds) died. He overdosed in room 8 and visitors staying there say that he still haunts that room. Objects shake, move by themselves and sometimes disappear only to reappear later. Famed psychic Kenny Kingston stayed there in 1997 and could feel Parsons vibes. Friends of Gram also stole his body before it was to be shipped home to Louisiana and tried to cremate him near Joshua Tree. They were arrested and Parson is buried in Louisiana. Ghost Identified: Gram Parsons.
Modesto: Modesto High School, At the intersection of 1st St. and H St. / The spirit of a young man paces the balcony of the auditorium. Supposedly, quite a few years ago, a young man had fallen from the balcony railing to the carpet-covered cement ramp below and was killed. There are also reports of knocking noises heard in the main hallway, where the floor slopes by the sewing room, that are coming from the tunnels that used to run under the school. Ghost Identified: The Balcony Man.
Napa: Napa Cinedome, 825 Pearl St. / The Napa Cinedome is said to be haunted by two ghosts that look like a loving couple. There is one spot in the last theater room in the building that gets cold enough to shed ice over your coke, when you sit there you also feel like someone is watching you. Ghosts Identified: The Loving Couple of Napa Cinedome.
Oakland: Holmes Book Company, 274 Fourteenth St. / Haunted by a male ghost that will throw books around. Ghost Identified: Book Thrower.
Pardee Home, 672 Eleventh St. Located in California ‘s Preservation Park Historic District, this house was home to California ‘s Governor (George Pardee 1903-1907). Pictures showing orbs have been taken, but no naked eye sightings. The rest of the park is also haunted with orbs having been photographed. They believe that George Pardee still haunts this home. Ghost Identified: Governor George Pardee.
By Paul Dale Roberts, HPI’s Esoteric Detective Halo Paranormal Investigations – HPI International. www.facebook.com/#!/groups/HPIinternational/
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A 1965 Mustang Convertible for a New Zealander’s Father Back Home
When Chris Slee left his New Zealand home for the States in 2008, he brought his family…and his love of American cars. But just as his family’s genealogy traces back across the Pacific, so does Slee’s passion for American car culture.
Growing up in New Zealand, Slee recalls that is his father, Ron, owned vintage American cars. He says, “We couldn’t afford anything ‘exotic’ like a Mustang, but I remember cars like ’60s Impalas.” Ron Slee always had a soft spot for American cars, and his son, Chris, inherited it.
When Chris Slee wanted to build his 80-year-old father an American car to drive in New Zealand, the obvious choice was a classic Mustang convertible.
The junior Slee now runs Kiwi Classics and Customs in Franklin, Tennessee. Even though he resides 8,000 miles from his father, their love of automotive Americana ties them together. During a visit to the United States when younger Slee came across a 1965 Mustang in Michigan, father and son decided to take a road trip to pick up the car and tour Detroit’s heritage. Once back in Tennessee, Chris planned to rebuild the car and send it to New Zealand for his father to enjoy.
After driving the car back to Tennessee, Chris and his crew at Kiwi Classics and Customs got to work. The project snowballed from a basic restoration to a larger project because of a common reason: rust. Once disassembled, Slee found more of the metal cancer than he anticipated. However, Slee remained pragmatic. “The floors were really rusty. But, if a panel is ‘a little’ rusty or ‘a lot’ rusty, the work is the same to replace it.”
Subtle body modifications are a hallmark of Chris Slee’s work. Note the raised front wheel arches, tight panel gaps, tucked-in bumpers, and smoothed rockers.
One of the hallmarks of Slee’s work is performing subtle sheetmetal modifications to his customers’ cars—and his dad’s ’65 convertible is no exception. None of the features stand out, but rather update and enhance his subject’s classic shape. Astute enthusiasts will notice the raised front wheel arch (1 inch higher than stock), tucked-in bumpers, and precise fender gaps. Slee also extended the rocker panel sheetmetal to fill in the gap to the pinch weld. The result is a smooth rocker panel that tucks up cleanly under the car. Slee also reworked the rear fender pinch welds to match the tidiness of the rocker treatment.
One of the most noteworthy coachwork customizations is incorporating 1967 Mustang hoodscoops and turn signal indicators into the 1965 hood. Slee is proud of the result, and adds, “It’s one of the first things Mustang people notice about the car.”
Subtle body modifications are a hallmark of Chris Slee’s work. Note the raised front wheel arches, tight panel gaps, tucked-in bumpers, and smoothed rockers.
Interestingly, Slee had to restrain himself from making more extensive sheetmetal and powertrain alterations. In New Zealand, modified vehicles are subject to a strict “compliancing” process. All collision repairs and other modifications are subject to inspection by a certified automotive engineer, who vouches for the safety of every vehicle that’s modified beyond its original equipment. Slee explains, “A lot of what some people do here in the States would never fly over in New Zealand. So, I couldn’t really cut up the body and add a big-horsepower engine without running afoul of a New Zealand compliance inspector.”
With the metalwork done, Slee turned his attention to the paint. “We had a blue color in mind, but not the typical dark blue often seen on these cars. We took some Matrix paint colors and started mixing, and added pearls and metal flakes of various sizes. It took thirteen tries, but we found something we liked.” Kiwi Classics and Customs’ in-house painter, Barry Bannister, fogged the custom color over the Mustang’s smoothed panels. Bannister even painted the underbody with a tinted Raptor coating to protect the floors from rock chips.
Slee incorporated the Vintage Air vents into the metal dashboard and relocated the controls to the center for a subtle, integrated look.
Suspension modifications were also kept simple to please New Zealand’s compliance inspectors. The front was treated to a “Shelby drop” kit, while Summit Racing 1-inch drop rear springs were installed to level the ride. An upgraded Borgeson steering box tightened up the steering feel, while Slee painted a set of stock-style four-piston front calipers in body color to brighten up the braking equipment.
The front discs and rear drums were installed behind US Mags measuring 17×7 and 17×8 front and rear, respectively. Slee ordered the wheels with textured gray centers and diamond-cut lips, and then wrapped them in Hankook P235/45R17 rubber up front and P245/45R17 rubber in the rear.
Slee incorporated 1967 hoodscoops and turn signal indicators into the 1965 hood.
The custom touches continued with the interior, and specifically to the dashboard. “I didn’t like how the bezels for the Vintage Air conditioning system hung below the dash, so I incorporated them into the dashboard.” Slee also relocated the controls to the center of the dash in a space formerly occupied by the ash tray. “Most people don’t notice that I moved it unless I point it out.”
Slee turned to TMI Products for their interior expertise, including complete low-back bucket seats, a full console, dashpad, and full-length door panels. The rich, tan leather contrasts nicely with the bright blue paint and matching TMI cloth convertible top.
Slee painted the bumpers and tucked them closely to the body.
The Mustang’s original straight-six engine and three-speed transmission were chucked in favor of a 5.0-liter/five-speed combination snatched from a 1995 Mustang GT. When asked about any engine work, Slee replies, “We weren’t planning on it, but when swapping to a proper oil pan for the ’65, I made the mistake of checking the main bearings.” The inspection resulted in a complete rebuild from Grooms Engines in Nashville, Tennessee. Slee topped the freshened short-block with a set of Flo-Tek aluminum heads, a Summit Racing Stage 1 intake, and a Quick Fuel 600-cfm carburetor. A CFR front engine accessory drive kit, valve covers, and air cleaner complete the under-hood aesthetics.
To clean up the engine bay, Slee filled a lot of the holes, hid the air conditioning hoses and wiring harnesses, and fabricated a custom radiator cover panel emblazoned with the Māori warrior—a symbol of New Zealand culture, and used in the Kiwi Classics and Customs logo.
The smooth lower body look continues from the extended rocker panels to the rear fender seam behind the wheels.
Slee always keeps the needs of his customers in the forefront of his mind, and as such this Mustang retains three pedals. “Even though my father is 80 years old, he insisted on driving a stick shift.” The aforementioned 1995 Mustang five-speed gearbox received a new countershaft cluster, fresh clutch, and stock shifter to make his dad’s driving chores as easy as possible. Torque from the Tremec box is sent to an 8-inch rearend with 2.80:1 gears and an open differential. “The one-tire fryer is actually a safety measure. If my dad spins the tires, the differential keeps it from going sideways.” Flowtech headers and a Summit Racing exhaust kit make sure Ron Slee’s neighbors in New Zealand know when he’s coming or going.
Ron Slee’s Mustang is a perfect example that one doesn’t need to go overboard to build a fabulous car. It’s the little things that complete the package. By the time you read this, the blue beauty you see before you will be on an 8,000-mile journey to Auckland, New Zealand, where Slee’s father will ignite genealogy and gasoline every time he turns the key.
A 5.0L/five-speed sourced from a 1995 Mustang GT fills the engine bay. A Quick Fuel carburetor, Flo-Tek aluminum heads, and a Summit Racing intake manifold enhance motivation.
Kiwi Classics and Customs’ Barry Bannister sprayed the tinted Raptor liner on the underside of the Mustang to make sure this Mustang survives any surface it drives in New Zealand.
Ron Slee (left) and his son and car builder, Chris Slee (right), take a selfie during their Michigan-to-Tennessee road trip in front of the Indianapolis Motor Speedway Hall of Fame.
The post A 1965 Mustang Convertible for a New Zealander’s Father Back Home appeared first on Hot Rod Network.
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Raising Sheep For Profit: How to Sell Raw Fleece
By Bonnie Sutten – When I first started raising sheep for profit, raw fleece sales were on the bottom of my priority list. I thought that if I was raising sheep for wool, it was the processed roving or other products that would be the way to go. I spent a lot of time and money, believing that raw wool would not be profitable.
When we purchased the CVM/Romeldale sheep over other sheep breeds, we were very excited about their ability to produce a unique and beautiful wool, and we were soon flooded with requests to buy raw fleece. Today, the sale of our raw fleece now stands at about 40% to 50% of my total wool sales. From the beginning of our work in raising sheep for profit, our farm set a goal to continue to raise this breed with the handspinner in mind. This starts with not putting any wool into spinner’s hands that does not first meet strict preparation guidelines.
Because of this, we never sell any fleeces on shearing day. There is never time that day to thoroughly skirt a fleece, and if you sell it to someone and they take it home and show someone else, that unskirted fleece is going to represent your farm to the public. Sure, they can reserve it, but it won’t leave our farm until it is skirted and has our stamp of approval. It just isn’t worth it, plus, you would have to lower the price considerably if you were going to sell an unskirted fleece by the pound.
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I am a handspinner, and have purchased my fair share of raw wool. As a wool customer, as well as a wool producer, I have learned there are definitely various degrees of wool available for purchase. It is disappointing to send money for a product, along with shipping charges, and open the box and find a fleece that is less than a quality product. In some purchased fleeces I have found burrs and sticks, large hay and straw pieces, numerous second cuts, and even manure tags (feces) from the animal. In one particularly bad incident, I opened a box of wool and it was all felted together!
In raising sheep for profit, we choose a breed of sheep renowned for its superior wool production so it has been important for us to treat the sales of this wool with utmost care. When someone buys raw fleece from our farm, they are only getting the best part of that fleece. For our prices, which range from $18.00-$25.00 per pound, we only put on the scale and into the box prime wool that has been hand skirted (wool that has been covered while on the animal, and skirted with a “fine tooth comb”).
At the same time, with all the time and effort that I have put into raising sheep for profit, the cost of my fleece reflects my 365-day investment. I want buyers to see the quality that particular animal has the ability to produce. I also understand that my customer is going to form an opinion – in many cases, of the entire breed – by my fleeces. It is not fair, but it is true. I do this myself if I buy a bad fleece from a particular breed, and I have to force my self to try again from a different breeder of that same breed.
Preparing a Fleece
Cover your investment. By this I mean, literally, cover your sheep with a sheep coat for the cleanest possible fleeces. There are some breeds out there that do not do well covered (like the Icelandic), but the majority do very well. Matilda coats, which we use on our sheep, are lightweight, breathable fabric that reflects the sun and UV rays to prevent sun damage, and keep the sheep cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. By using these coats, there are no sun-bleached tips that can break off, and the wool does not rot from having snow and ice on the sheep. We have only needed to remove these when our Michigan summer has been in the 100s and extremely high humidity. Romeldales do very well in our climate, and they do very well with the coats on to protect their wool.
Remember: Even though I am focusing on CVM/Romeldale sheep, most other sheep breeds can be covered with sheep coats, as well as Angora goats and alpacas. If you do not cover your sheep, you must feed and house your animals in the most efficient way to keep fleeces from being destroyed by the elements and contamination.
The beginning of the cycle is the day your sheep are shorn; the work begins all over again.
A sheep, by nature, is designed to produce wool. You need to offer optimum nutrition when considering what to feed sheep, and plenty of fresh water year round. I had heated water in all my pens this year and the fleeces have never looked nicer. I know there are many people who say they do fine on snow, but when you feed animals dry hay, they need water to properly aid digestion and kidney function. They also require adequate shelter and living conditions.
A deworming and vaccination program is necessary, as well as keeping all diseases out of your flock such as sore mouth and foot rot. A sheep can’t produce quality fiber if its immune system is constantly taxed by disease, not to mention that it is immoral and unethical to sell any product from a contagious animal.
The Harvest
The optimum time for a ewe to be shorn is shortly before or after lambing: The event can cause a break in the wool which can compromise the integrity of the wool fibers. About a year later, (sometimes more or less, depending on the growth rate of your breed’s wool) you can finally reap the rewards of all your hard work.
Take a look at your fleeces, feel them, lay them out and really inspect them. Now pat yourself on the back for all your hard work and dedication to produce the best fleece your animal can grow.
You should have before you a lustrous, clean, healthy-looking fleece. The fiber locks should ping with strength when you tug on them from either end, not make a tearing sound or break in half. They should smell like a sheep, not like manure or urine. If they have been getting fresh air and have clean living quarters, you should smell the proof in the fleece. If your fleece is not up to these standards, that fleece needs to go in the junk box used for felting or quilt batts, mulch, or insulation, but should not be sold to handspinners.
When the fleece is shorn off of the animal you should remove any of the manure tags or soiled fleece. Store the fleece in a container that allows air to circulate through it. My preference is cardboard boxes with loose fitting tops. These can be labeled with a permanent marker and stacked in an area that is free from moisture and pests.
Skirting a Fleece
Just because our fleeces are covered, it doesn’t mean all the work is eliminated. When you skirt a fleece, get comfortable; you are going to be there for a while. Find an area with good lighting, either outside or inside. Personally, in the cold spring months, I skirt my fleeces inside. I lay a bed sheet out on the living room floor and put in a good movie. Many people would prefer to do this chore outside, especially if you have a special area just for this task. You can build a really nice skirting table with a mesh screen top so the small pieces of vegetation fall out easily onto the ground. Even though my sheep are covered, my fleeces take me a minimum of 45 minutes to an hour to completely skirt and prepare.
Since I skirt most of my fleeces a few days after shearing, they are free of mildew, stains and other problems associated with storing fleeces for a long period of time. I recommend that if you can’t get to your fleeces right away to process or spin, at least lay them out flat to let them air dry in a protected area to remove any moisture from them.
First, lay them cut side down and remove all the big pieces of vegetable matter (VM)-hay, grass, straw, sticks, etc. After you get that done, make sure you tear off all the belly wool and heavily contaminated neck wool and discard. Many times the shearer will throw that off to the side so it never gets mixed in, but in case he didn’t, double check. Also, remove any britch wool, if your fleece has it. It is best described as “hair” that is coarse, straight wool on the lower parts of the sheep and on the back leg. Britch wool is not desired by handspinners and should be put in the junk box, which as I mentioned, is for non-spinning projects.
Next, flip the wool over and remove any second cuts the shearer left. There should be a minimum of these if you have a good shearer. Second cuts are created when the blades are passed over the same area twice and have left stubble (short pieces) in the wool. These produce bothersome neps (lint-like blobs) in the yarn and finished products and are very irritating to handspinners.
Finally, to get to the prime wool, select out the areas that the coat has covered, and set them aside. This is “prime wool” and can now be sorted out to sell to handspinners. The remaining wool that was not covered by the coat will vary from sheep to sheep as to what its destination will be. Our non-covered wool is usually graded into two types, “roving quality” and “batt quality.”
The roving quality will have a low amount of VM that is not embedded in deeply into the fibers and has a minimum length of three inches. If it has any dirt on the tips it will still be suitable for roving; the heat and detergent will remove that. (Editor’s note: “roving” is wool whose fibers have been straightened and made parallel to each other by the process of carding, forming a sort of loose “rope” of wool up to about an inch in diameter.) If it is shorter than three inches I put it into a different group, to have wool batts made out of it for craft projects and quilting.
Packaging Your Wool
Your product must be appealing! I can’t stress this enough, especially if you’re raising sheep for profit from the sales of wool and fleece. Imagine yourself as the recipient of your wool and picture opening it for the first time. Do you want to say “Wow!” or do you want to hurry and close it back up, throw it in the closet, and hide it from your spouse so you’re not embarrassed you spent good money on your wool? Personally, I have had both reactions with wool that I have bought from someone else. Needless to say, I never buy again from the people who sold me the latter type.
First, find a nice, medium-weight box. I like to use ones that are just plain, cardboard boxes. I find it in poor taste to receive wool in a toaster box or crock pot box, but maybe that is just me. Also, these types of printed boxes are generally heavier, and I don’t feel it is fair to have to pay shipping for heavy packaging. I think it better to search a little and use a plain box with minimal print on it.
Now, you are ready to fill it. Take a container and weigh it empty so you can subtract the weight from the wool. As you start selecting wool from your pile, look it over well, in case you have missed VM, second cuts or second quality wool the first time around.
If the fleece is variegated, spotted or patterned, make sure you have indicated that in your description of the fleece. Now you are going to have to try and have a complimentary color scheme if they have ordered less than the full fleece. Try to keep the colors similar so that if it is used for a project they won’t get really dramatic color variations unless they have requested that.
After you have weighed out the proper amount, place it in the box. Make sure the box is big enough to accommodate the wool without damaging it, but don’t over-package it with too large a box, either. I like to line my boxes with tissue paper. It keeps the wool from poking out as you are trying to tape it up and it also looks neater and compliments the contents. If there is fiber from more than one animal, separate it with tissue paper and make sure you label which animal is which with a small piece of paper or a label on the tissue.
You can pack wool pretty tightly, pushing it gently down to get the air out of it. When the box is opened, it will fluff up again. I tape the invoice right on the top of the tissue so they can find it easily when they open the package. Include an address inside, just in case your package is damaged or the label is lost.
Finally, label the package clearly with a neatly addressed label. I make a point to ask customers how they want their package shipped, because some carriers work better to different parts of the country. Then you can get the approximate shipping cost from the internet or phone so you can let the buyer know.
Money Matters When Raising Sheep for Profit
I know too many small producers who are too trusting and ship the item and never see the money. Always collect the money before shipping the wool! Many fiber producers are honest people and they assume the rest of the world is as honest as they are. Unfortunately, this is not always true. Let your customer know the total including shipping costs and then wait for them to send payment before shipping their order.
Some small businesses have invested in a credit card machine and can process orders more quickly when they can take a credit card. We have not yet made this investment, but if our farm business continues to grow, we may consider it for the future.
Getting Still More Business
You may want to include extras in your package. A photo and information about the animal that produced the fiber they bought, a fiber sample card, roving sample, soap sample, brochure or other small item would be great. You have a captive audience with this customer, and you have the perfect opportunity to present your other products from your farm.
Repeat customers are so important in this business. Remember, you have produced the best, most cared-for fleece; now you need to present it in its best light.
A nice gesture is to include a stamped return postcard for their comments and questions. You can also use that opportunity to have them complete a survey about what their preferences are in buying a fleece. You can target your market and next year know more information about your customers. You might even want to send them a few extra business cards so they can share your name with friends.
Remember to rate your final package on the “Wow!” scale. If you don’t think it is a wholehearted “Wow!” then you have more work to do.
Although I am so partial to my CVM/Romeldale sheep, I do love to spin many other breeds of sheep. I firmly believe if you have selected a breed you truly love when you’re raising sheep for profit, you can achieve good if not excellent prices for your wool if you follow careful business practices.
There is no shortage of wool in this country, but there is a shortage of outstanding wool for handspinners. Cover your fleeces, keep your sheep in tip-top condition, prepare and package your fibers with the utmost attention to detail, and you will find your wool sales booming.
Originally published in sheep! July/August 2003 and regularly vetted for accuracy.
Raising Sheep For Profit: How to Sell Raw Fleece was originally posted by All About Chickens
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