#Kearvaig Bothy

[bikepackinguk]

Day Thirty-six

It's been another day in paradise!

Well, I know it won't be paradise to many - the idea of having to get your drinking water from a nearby river, or your bathroom visits requiring a shovel, isn't everyone's cup of tea. But this incredible patch of true off-grid wilderness is utterly idyllic to me, and it feels like one of the most wonderful places on earth that I could possibly be. A true highlight of this journey.

Whilst the desolate moors here are devoid of much possibility of firewood, fellow bothy stayer and Calgarian Matt yesterday noted that peat does make a good fuel source, which can be found in abundance here. A short bit of experimenting last night and we were able to have a decent fire to while away the night chatting!

This morning I bid a fond farewell to the other half dozen travellers who were heading back today, before packing a lunch and setting off on a hike further down the road.

It's a good stretch of uphill out from the bothy, but it's a sunny day and the rolling hills make a lovely backdrop. It feels like I can't walk for more than a minute without hearing a trickling stream or rush of water down the countless gulleys around the place.

An hour and a half of hiking later, and I round the final corner of the hills to behold Cape Wrath Lighthouse! The real extreme north west point of the island, and braving the sheep path to the very top of the clifftops gives an incredible view back along the shore for me to enjoy a nice lunch.

On the walk over I was passed by a trio of Irish cyclists on the last leg of their tour, who I have a chat with and learn I'll be sharing the bothy with this evening.

I take a diversion at this point and rather than head back down the road I head further up the hillside to get to the cairn at the top for some more spectacular views, and start trekking along the clifftops back to the cove.

The journey off-road is a little marshy in places but it affords me a little more opportunity to forage up some more peat along with some dried heather to get another fire going this evening. I also had the pleasure of sighting a group of seven deer grazing up on the hilltops.

Once finally back to the bothy, I'm greeted by the trio of cyclists who have also managed a grand job of rustling up some more fuel.

As the tide is heading out at this point, I head down the side of the cliffs for a bit of bouldering along the shoreline, to see some cool tidal pools through a cliffside tunnel only accessible whilst the tide is low.

I take a further hike up to the top of the eastern cliffs for some more incredible views to try and catch a glimpse of the puffin colony here. They're just about visible but too far for my phone's feeble camera to pick up, but it's pretty cool to see them clustered along the cliffsides making a hell of a racket.

I'd been gifted a wee bottle of whiskey from one if the guys who left yesterday and have a little whilst above the clifftops. The North coast of Scotland has been incredible and I feel so privileged to have seen so much of it.

It's back down to the bothy after that to rustle up aome dinner before I'm joined by my fellow travellers to get a nice fire going outside and relax and chat away the evening.

And as the sun comes down, it's time for a 4 mile round trip trek up the road to find signal to get this posted! I think one more night will be spent here after this to give me an actual rest day as today has involved a lot of hiking to take in the sights, which has been absolutely required and a very good use of the day.

Until tomorrow!

[tinyshe]

Intro 00:00​ - 01:10​ Guirdil Bothy Isle of Rum 01:10​ - 03:09​ Kinloch Bay Isle of Rum 03:09​ - 03:44​ Coastline between Arisaig and Morar 03:44​ - 04:04​ Dornoch Beach 04:04​ - 04:17​ Noss Head Lighthouse 04:17​ - 04:21​ Ferry Gills Bay to St Margaret’s Hope (Orkney) 04:21​ - 04:29​ Wheems Organic Farm Campsite 04:29​ - 04:32​ Churchhill Barriers and The Gloup (mainland Orkney) 04:34​ - 05:25​ Rackwick Bay and Burnmouth Bothy, Hoy (Orkney Isles) 05:25​ - 06:00​ Old Man of Hoy 06:00​ - 07:43​ Rackwick Bay and Burnmouth Bothy, Hoy (Orkney Isles) 07:43​ - 08:23​ Sanday (Orkney Isles) 08:23​ - 09:58​ Skinnet Bay 09:58​ - 10:34​ Coldbackie Beach 10:34​ - 10:46​ Talmine Bay 10:46​ - 11:00​ Kyle of Tongue 11:00​ - 11:03​ Drive Kyle of Tongue to Smoo Cave 11:03​ - 11:15​ Smoo Cave 11:15​  - 11:58​ Cape Wrath and Kearvaig Bothy 11:58​ - 13:26​ Sandwood Bay 13:26​ - 14:40​ Driving around Assynt 14:40​ - 14:49​ Achmelvich Beach 14:49​ - 15:30​ Driving between Assynt and Lochinver 15:30​ - 15:35​ Ardvreck Castle 15:35​ - 15:39​ Hike to and overnight at Suileag Bothy 15:39​ - 16:06​ Suilven Hike and Summit Camp 16:06​ - 18:12​ Stac Pollaidh Hike 18:12​ - 18:57​ Wild Camp Achnahaird Beach 18:57​ - 20:09​ Firemore Beach 20:09​ - 20:35​ Badachro Inn 20:35​ - 20:38​ Corrieshalloch Gorge 20:38​ - 20:42​ Applecross 20:42​ - 21:00​ Bealach na Ba 21:00​ - 21:54​ Old Man of Storr, Isle of Skye 21:54​ - 22:11​ The Quiraing, Isle of Skye 22:11​ - 22:47​ Kilt Rock and Mealt Falls, Isle of Skye 22:47​ - 22:53​ Wild Camp near Rubha Hunish, Isle of Skye 22:53​ - 23:20​ Video Explanation  23:20​ - 26:28

[papapiusxiii]

Scottish bothies photographed by Geoff Allan.

Kearvaig bothy in the Western Highlands. Kearvaig, with its own private, pristine beach. Suardalan, a great place for climbers seeking remote ascents.

[ivandimarcofotografo]

Mountain rescue: Why bothies need a helping hand – a photo essay

Bothies, free to use by anyone out in remote parts of the UK, are more popular than ever. But they’re maintained by veteran volunteers and need younger blood if they are to survive for future generations

The Mountain Bothies Association (MBA) is a charity made up of volunteers who maintain more than 100 remote shelters across England, Wales and Scotland. It was founded in 1965 by Bernard Heath after he spotted a remark in the visitor book at the Backhill of the Bush bothy in Galloway Forest park, suggesting the setting up of a club to save a growing number of deserted farm buildings from ruin.

Plaque on the door of a bothy maintained by the MBA

This bothy, the Lookout on the Isle of Skye, is a former coastguard station that was operational until the 1970s

The Glendhu bothy (on the left), in the far north-west of Scotland, is one of 83 Scottish shelters

Reaching a bothy requires some determination – which has meant they have become the preserve of hill walkers and rock climbers

(Above left) Any luxuries must be carried in, as in the case of this visitor to Glendhu, who brought his own cooking pot when he stopped overnight on his way north to Cape Wrath. The Instagram factor of bothies such as the Eagle’s Nest (right) on the Isle of Lewis has attracted many more visitors, bringing record numbers of visitors to remote parts of Scotland

Top, Cuillin Horseshoe, Isle of Skye; bottom, a cyclist approaches the bothy at Kearvaig Bay in Cape Wrath

Clockwise from top left: in 2017, the MBA spent £80,000 on maintenance across the properties in its care. All the materials for the work party at Glendhu Bothy have to be carried in; with no access to power tools; and it’s veteran volunteers like Robert Barton who do the lion’s share of the work

The unforgiving weather in the far north of Scotland takes its toll on the buildings

Peter, an MBA volunteer, boats the work party and materials in to Glendhu

Clockwise from top left: Building materials rest on the front of the building as volunteers start work at Glendhu Bothy; while volunteer Robbie repairs a skylight, he is kept in place with a harness counterweighted with a bag of rocks; a fully stocked fireplace at the end the end of the working day

Candles flicker and illuminate the bothy as volunteers eat and socialise at the Glendhu Bothy work party

In 2015, a storm ripped off the roof of Strabeg Bothy in Sutherland. The building was only saved by the quick actions of the MBA volunteers

A young German volunteer sweeps the bothy at the end of a successful work party at Glendhu Bothy

Continue reading... https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2019/jan/25/mountain-rescue-why-bothies-need-a-helping-hand-a-photo-essay

[mealha]

Mountain rescue: Why bothies need a helping hand – a photo essay

Bothies, free to use by anyone out in remote parts of the UK, are more popular than ever. But they’re maintained by veteran volunteers and need younger blood if they are to survive for future generations

The Mountain Bothies Association (MBA) is a charity made up of volunteers who maintain more than 100 remote shelters across England, Wales and Scotland. It was founded in 1965 by Bernard Heath after he spotted a remark in the visitor book at the Backhill of the Bush bothy in Galloway Forest park, suggesting the setting up of a club to save a growing number of deserted farm buildings from ruin.

Plaque on the door of a bothy maintained by the MBA

This bothy, the Lookout on the Isle of Skye, is a former coastguard station that was operational until the 1970s

The Glendhu bothy (on the left), in the far north-west of Scotland, is one of 83 Scottish shelters

Reaching a bothy requires some determination – which has meant they have become the preserve of hill walkers and rock climbers

(Above left) Any luxuries must be carried in, as in the case of this visitor to Glendhu, who brought his own cooking pot when he stopped overnight on his way north to Cape Wrath. The Instagram factor of bothies such as the Eagle’s Nest (right) on the Isle of Lewis has attracted many more visitors, bringing record numbers of visitors to remote parts of Scotland

Top, Cuillin Horseshoe, Isle of Skye; bottom, a cyclist approaches the bothy at Kearvaig Bay in Cape Wrath

Clockwise from top left: in 2017, the MBA spent £80,000 on maintenance across the properties in its care. All the materials for the work party at Glendhu Bothy have to be carried in; with no access to power tools; and it’s veteran volunteers like Robert Barton who do the lion’s share of the work

The unforgiving weather in the far north of Scotland takes its toll on the buildings

Peter, an MBA volunteer, boats the work party and materials in to Glendhu

Clockwise from top left: Building materials rest on the front of the building as volunteers start work at Glendhu Bothy; while volunteer Robbie repairs a skylight, he is kept in place with a harness counterweighted with a bag of rocks; a fully stocked fireplace at the end the end of the working day

Candles flicker and illuminate the bothy as volunteers eat and socialise at the Glendhu Bothy work party

In 2015, a storm ripped off the roof of Strabeg Bothy in Sutherland. The building was only saved by the quick actions of the MBA volunteers

A young German volunteer sweeps the bothy at the end of a successful work party at Glendhu Bothy

Continue reading... from Photography | The Guardian http://bit.ly/2Uiuw8Z

[ysvoice]

| ♕ |  Sunset at Kearvaig Bothy, Sutherland, NW Scotland  | by George Henderson

[bikepackinguk]

Day Thirty-eight

On wandering back to the bothy after last night's uodate, I had been belatedly joined by a couple of Dutch cyclists!

Whilst I did want a bit if a quieter evening in, it didn't feel in the spirit of things to just say hi and then coop myself up, so I split my foraged supplies up and got a fire going outside for them and had a nice lil chat before retiring later on. Though not before taking one more dip in the sea - not too many folk who can say they've skinny-dipped off the coast of Cape Wrath!

I'd also received a message from one of the bothy-stayers from a prior night alerting me to the existence of the Cape Wrath Fellowship - a club for thise who have cycled up to the lighthouse which requires a selfie with your bike there. If I'd known the other day I could have easily headed up, but given my expected early departure to get the ferry a little after 9am, this would prove a little more complicated.

It's been a while since I did some damn fool all-nighter to achieve something silly though, and this felt like the time to get to it! So as the sun began setting, I retired to my room to get a lil fire going for myself and be ready to set off with the early dawn.

I love a proper hearth fire, and it's not only been years since I was able to set one but I can't recall getting to have one to myself, so this was a real treat for me. Due to sharing my supplies I had to keep it smaller to nurse it through the night hours, but there's something wonderful about sitting with your feet stretched before a nice fire indoors whilst reading a book.

Once dawn began approaching, it was time to get all packed up once more for the road, give the room a sweep and tidy up, then get cracking! The slog up the steep rough path was a bit if a strenuous affair, but with a few breathers and a bit of sweat it's finally back round to the road.

At this point, I unload all the luggage from the bike to have an easier charge back up to the lighthouse. Woah. I can't actually remember the last time I rode this bike without a ton if gear on it - after iver a minth of slogging away with laden luggage, she flies! I sail up to the lighthouse to grab a selfie with the bike to join the club, then zoom back to the turnoff in around 90 minutes.

With the gear reloaded, it's time to schlepp back to the jetty. Thankfully after rounding the corner it's almost all downhill, but the rough road still requires foing hard on the brakes the entire way, causing a good but if stress in the arms and shoulders.

Eventually, the jetty is reached, with around 39 minutes to spare - perfect!

The ride has been pretty melancholy to here to be honest. Caoe Wrath and the Kearvaig Bothy have been a true and genuine highlight of the entire journey so far, and leaving comes with plenty if reluctance. I feel I'll be doing myself a disservice if I never make it back up here again in the future.

Still, after all that blathering, it's time ti get back in the road!

After the ferry puts in at Keoldale, it's a ride southeard around the Kyle of Durness. The single track road has a fair bit of campervan traffic along it, necessitating a good deal if starting and stopping around passing places.

As we continue past the Kyke, the eoad dollows the River Dionard upstream into the valleys, where we start riding up opposite a beautiful range of mountains that were also framing the lovely Loch Eriboll of a few days back.

Soon enough, the riad starts climbing up iut if the valley, giving a kong slog of a climb up and up in irder to escape the mughty peaks to the east of the road.

It's very tough going but the gradint is handleable at least, and after a lot more dealing with traffic there's a very rewarding view back across the river valley.

I round a few more corners and suddenly... mountains. Mountains everywhere. From horizon to horizon they're filling the view. It's quite incredible.

suddenly the road begins dipping downward and alk the climbing earlier is paid off with an amazing cruise right through this range if peaks - past looming cliffsides, tumbling waterfalls, and bubbling brooks. What a stretch!

Down the road carries on until reaching Rhiconich. By niw the sun has co e out with avengeance andthe temperature is hitting 27C, so I scrabble to take the opportunity to grab some shade to prevent myself from cooking in my skin.

The wind has also gotten up now and has been providing a mean crosswind for much of the day. A rough combination!

It's a diversion off northwest from here to head up Loch Inchard and take in the coast up padt Kinlochbervie. It's nore hills after hills slugging away at this route, and the lack of sleep combined with high temperatures is starting to take its toll on me.

Past Oldshoremore I nip downhill to take in the Here There and Everywhere sign by Polin but it's gone! Another additional climb out that could have been avoided!

Getting on to the end if this stretch of coast, I had pondered based in recommendations to get up to Sandwood Bay Beach, but it'll be a long hike on foot and after all the work this morning I'm loathe to grind that out.

I take a bit if stock at the car park though to have a late lunch and reasses. I'm tired out right now, and the route now is basically to head back along to Rhiconich which will require a bit more work than the kegs want to give currently.

So, a jaunt downhill takes me down to Droman Pier, a nice quiet little bay with some picnic benches and flst ground I can post up on.

And I think that'll be it today! Despite it being just 5pm that's still a very solid 12 hours if effort expended today. I can now have a quick dip to cool down and try and get a bit of sleep to catch up on the night lost, and be in a bit if a better state tomorrow.

TTFN!

[bikepackinguk]

Day Thirty-seven

After a hard day pushing to get out here, and another spent hiking around seeing the sights, today has being spent as a well-earned rest day.

That's not to say I've been completely idle of course. After a morning jaunt with a shovel and bidding farewell to the cycling trio I shared the bothy with last night, I have a wander down to the river to draw some more water for drinking and cooking, and have a trek up the road to get signal to check the forecast as well as a brief chat with some friends.

The walk doubles as an opportunity to forage up some more fire building materials, and by the time I head back to the cove I have a bag of dried dead heather and gorse for kindling, and another full of sods of peat.

It does feel a bit odd basically using soil for a fire, but if it sounds stupid and works, then it's not stupid.

A couple more chores are undertaken on returning - giving the room I'm in a bit of a sweep out, packing up my tent which has been airing out, and preplenishing my water carriers from my purifier I'd set going in the morning. After that it's a hearty late lunch with some nice savoury rice & tuna that I'd been kindly gifted from the cyclists who had now finished their tour and no longer needed them.

The minibus shuttle from the jetty to the lighthouse had passed me a couple of times on the walk, so there are a few other tourists day-tripping over to see the sights, but none seem to be making their way over by foot or bike. By 3pm it becomes apparent that, after two very pleasant evenings of chatting with fellow travellers, I had the place to myself!

I have a nice relaxing afternoon sat by the firepit alternately watching and listening to the waves crashing in on the shore, and enjoying a good read. However, whilst they've been a minor annoyance at times, something about today has the local flies behaving quite aggressively and with the clouds starting to hide the sun I decide to retire inside for a while rather than have further chinks bitten out of me.

The bothy is impressively sized with multiple rooms to stay in besides a communal room with a fireplace, but there's also a nice separate room with its own hearth and door that I transferred into after its occupant left after my first night here. Having a nice fire going outside has been ideal with the multiple sets of folk over the last two nights, but as I'm by myself this evening I resolve to put my foraged fuel to good use in the fireplace and have a nice warm room to relax in for the night.

It's hitting 5pm at this point, so without any further obligations on the day it's time for another wander up the road for a quick check in and chat with friends and family, get this posted, and a stroll back downhill to start getting a fire going.

There'll be packing and prep to undertake for the morning of course, as getting the bike and gear back over to the ferry tomorrow will be no easy task, but all the more reason to get what I can done now and have a bit more time to appreciate my last night in this little slice of heaven.

[bikepackinguk]

Day Thirty-five

Up early at around 5am today as this is one of the few times on this journey where I have a very specific goal in mind for the day, and the tide times aren't too convenient so every little counts!

The light wind from yesterday has died off fully this morning. this wouldn't be a concern but I'm deep into midge country right now, so breakfast is had rapidly and thankfully I'm away without too many if them starting to pester me.

Out from Moine House with it's beautiful views and the massive climb at the end of yesterday is rewarded with a long winding descent to ease into the day, though the road surfacing here does keep me on my toes.

Of course it's not long before the xlimbs begin again around Loch Hope, which are slogged up to turn southward along Loch Eriboll.

I've mentioned before that it feels like around every corner and iver every summit is a new stunning sight to see, but the view here has me alternatively breathless, laughing, singing, or swearing. A beautiful body of water framed majestically by amazing mountaintops.

Unlike the road out from Tongue straight over the water, the path ahead loops all the way fully around the Loch, which turns into a good hour of riding past bubbling brooks and isolated dwellings. It's a genuine joy and I barely notice the few climbs involved due to how damn stunning the scenery is.

The road finally leads out on the northwest past the lovely Ceannabeinne Beach, with another grinding uphill to get around to Durness.

A short stop here to use the facilities is perfectly timed to avoid a brief but strong shower, before a bit more riding down the road takes me to the Kyle of Durness at Keoldale.

The early start to the day has paid off as I get in to the ferry point just a few minutes before it arrives. The bike is loaded on and a short trip over the water takes me onto the desolate northwest region around Cape Wrath.

It's a very tough section of the trip here as the "road" is a combination of potholed tarmac, rocks, gravel, and potholes filled with rocks and gravel. Given the stresses on the bike and gear ao far in the ride, I'm loathe to risk too much going wrong and much of the next six miles ahead turn into a tough hike rather than a ride.

A heavy downpour also arrives whilet I'm pushing up another stewp hill. I am grateful at least that the air is still and the rain manages keeps the threatening clouds of midges at bay. Despite the weather, the scenery amongst the area here continues to be breathtaking, and I keep stopping to turn and take in the countless rivers and hilltops all around.

The path following the turnoff miles down manages to be even harder to follow, a steep droo down a very rocky path that has both me and the bike scrabbling for traction. Getting back up here in a few days is not going to be an enjoyable affair, but that's a problem for another day!

Rounding the corner of the valley finally I behold the objective of today's trek - Kearvaig Bothy! A lovely well-sized bothy above a gorgeous stretch of beach, with mighty waves crashing in that are funneled down by some of the most impressive cliffs you'll come across.

After unloading my gear and getting comfy, I've had a nice lil swim in yhe powerful waves, and cooked up a very well earned late lunch. I'm currently sharing the bothy with a hiker and another cyclist, who both seem grand and I've had some good chats with.

Phone reception down the valley is non existent, but a 2 mile hike back up the hills does provide a bit of signal, which this has been posted with! So friends and family please be forgiving if I'm a little uncontactable whilst here!

Getting out to this place was a big hope for this tour so it's something really special to be sat at. The weather has cleared up almost immediately on arrival and it's a genuinely lovely day. Tomorrow I may jave a hike over the hills to Cape Wrath proper and see the lighthouse, but I'm thinking I may spend 2-3 nights here to make the most of it so I'm in no rush to squeeze things in this evening.

Ye gods it's incredible here.

[bikepackinguk]

Hi Stormy, hope all is going well. Just asking if you could send over the group fire pic from your first night at the wonderful Kearvaig Bothy.

diego_tristen@hotmail.co.uk

Many thanks, Tristen (and Daren)

Emailed as well, but it was a grand day :) A pleasure meeting you all!

[bikepackinguk]

Hey Stormy. Great to meet you yesterday, that was my best bothy experience so far!

I hope you get this before leaving Kearvaig. You probably already know about this, but just in case. There’s the cape wrath fellowship for anyone who rides a bike to the lighthouse and takes a photo of them and their bike, you can get a badge just like in scouts!

it’s through Cycling Uk so just look that up. I look forward to following your blog and I’ll see if I can come catch up as you pass north wales

Amazing, was grand to meet you and thanks for the suggestion! I'd hiked up to the lighthouse yesterday so now I'll have to be torn over heading back around with the bike haha, will see how the legs feel in the morrow! Hope you made it back without too much stress and are are enjoying some well earned r&r!

[blvqebird]

Kearvaig bothy in the Western Highlands, Scotland