#Jean Dessirier

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‘Air Afrique - folklore of the Upper Volta’

Air Afrique travel poster for the Republic of Upper Volta (now Burkina Faso) (c. 1960). Artwork by Jean Dessirier.

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Festival d’Hyères 2018: Accessories Prize

Sun, sea, sand, and… Swarovski ? Yes, the famed Festival International de la Mode et de la Photographie d’Hyères closed its 33rd edition last night under the curatorial eye of president Jean-Pierre Blanc, a driving force behind this sprawling creative concourse – one that has become an annual rendez-vous where the fashion and photography worlds collide inside the modernist splendour of the Robert Mallett Stevens-designed Villa Noailles.

For the second year running, Swarovski have inaugurated the Grand Prix du Jury Accessories de Mode Swarovski, a third principal competition that has expanded the festival’s wide reach even further than before, with a call to accessories designers across the globe to submit their jewellery, leather goods and footwear creations to the scrutiny of ten industry professionals. Initiated by Nadja Swarovski, last year’s 15,000€ prize went to Swiss-Brazilian footwear designer Marina Chedel, who joined the 2018 jury presided over by KOCHÉ designer and Maison Lemarié artistic director Christelle Kocher. The diverse jury included designers, buyers and editors, from Vogue.com’s Nicole Phelps to fine jeweller Elie Top, stylist Charlotte Stockdale, and Rick Owens’ wife and muse Michele Lamy.

A broad selection of artisanal creations emerged from the pre-selection process for this year’s prize, with the ten finalists showing their works in a dedicated exhibition space in transparent corrugated plastic designed by Dutch design studio Els Woldhek and Georgi Manassiev (AKA Odd Matter) inside the Villa Noailles. Complementing the install, an exhibition by French photographer Paul Rousteau situated the designs in the surrounding coastal landscapes; the romantic images revealing the diverse organic and contemporary aesthetics (as well as material choices) of the finalists.

  Designers approached both functionality and sustainability alongside form, with standouts including the perishable, vegetal earrings by Claire O’Keefe and Eugenia Oliva’s label Keef Palas, which appropriated natural materials like garlic cloves and sheaves of wheat as living ‘ephemeral jewellery’. With Ines Bressand’s rustic ‘elephant grass’ bags woven in Ghana, they echoed the laidback spirit of the festival’s French Riviera setting, whilst others took a more radical, urban approach to the project, like South Korean designer Jinah Jung, who amassed a collection of discarded sneaker samples for her collection of patchwork handbags. She sewed together a cacophony of multi-coloured shoe uppers to create Rorschach-like compositions of laces and leather, reminiscent of the spirit of the early days of Martin Margiela’s Artisanal line updated with an insistence on recycling.

  Whilst Cécile Gray’s diaphanous gold wire body jewellery held its own luxurious charm (and took home the Public Prize from the city of Hyères), it was the noble efforts of French trio Flora Fixy, Julia Dessirier and deaf photographer Kate Fichard that stole the jury’s heart, with their collection of jewellery pieces ‘H(Earring)’ designed to celebrate the unglamorous reality of wearing a hearing aid. Crafted in gold or rhodium-plated brass and dotted with Swarovski crystals, the ergonomic creations offer several elegant ways to wear a hearing aid and a statement earring at the same time, either concealing or accentuating the device without impeding on its function. “H(earring) by Kate Fichard, Flora Fixy and Julia Dessirier received an unanimous vote from my judging panel and myself,” explained jury president Christelle Kocher, “It’s a project that combines technology and jewellery as a new and revolutionary solution for people with an audio handicap. It is also a beautiful, truly touching story of a creative collaboration between a deaf photographer and two designers!”

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