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thecoroutfitters · 6 years ago

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Written by R. Ann Parris on The Prepper Journal.

There are probably 1,001 uses for wooden shipping pallets besides sticking them in a burn barrel. We can regularly source them for free or for very low cost by talking to distribution centers and contractor supply stores about their breakage piles, eyeballing the dumpster areas of shopping centers and warehouses, or checking sites like Craigslist and Freecycle.

Spin around online and you can find all sorts of projects and builds for people of all skill levels. They can make our lives easier and seriously cut our costs in many cases. A free item with that much potential makes them an automatic must-have in my book. I’m mostly going to talk about simple builds this time around, but pallets also get turned into pretty impressive structures, gardens, and furniture.

Pallets come in several standard sizes and a handful of configurations. While the type can matter for some of our projects due to the number, cut, and spacing of boards, for the most part applications are pretty universal. For details about shipping pallet types and sizes, check out this site http://www.airseacontainers.com/blog/most-common-shipping-pallet-measurements/.

Disassembled = Board Lumber

Remember, once disassembled, our pallets are just lumber. That opens up the whole world of projects. Rifle racks for the range or safes, food storage shelves, bird houses and playhouses; anything we’d repair or build can be done with pallets.

Those boards also have use in hiding some of the “ugly” around our homes. We can use them to sheath everything from our water storage totes and barrels, to whatever containers we’re planting in.

We can also double up our pallet boards for a little more durability and strength if we want. I mention this because some stuff is heavy and would do better with a 2×4 than 1×4. (I tend to live in the “abundance of caution” and JIC world for the most part, although I’ll dispel that and make heads spin in the next section.)

Safe or Unsafe

How “safe” the various treatments used on pallets is for us depends on our intended use, even if we’re worried about chemicals. Most articles and videos will tell you that only HT-Heat treated pallets are safe, although others include debarked (DB) and the “safe” EPAL European designator. I’m not going to hand my kids lead pacifiers or mix up powdered milk or pony drenches in bleach bottles, but I also don’t get too wrapped around the axle on some fronts. This is one of them.

If you consume Big Ag meats (supermarket to Outback or Whataburger), farmed or bottom-feeder fish, “normal” supermarket eggs and dairy, soda or anything in the center aisles made with corn or soy, or if you drive 3 hours/week, burn trash, touch cash and then your face/food, smoke (anything), handle lead (ammo), sit by campfires, live in a city, microwave food in plastic, use rain catchment without serious decontamination filters, have dark irrigation hoses or foam mattresses, or buy commercial animal feed … don’t sweat those markers too much.

One, you’re more likely to die from a vehicular accident, and be hospitalized from supermarket leafy greens or infection contracted in the hospital than from one more of the ubiquitous chemicals around us. Two, those chemicals mostly only become available as our pallets (or anything) decays. That means tiny increments released over time (vice chugging a can of stain). Chemicals mostly head downward with moisture, with only some outward contact spreading outward – only fractions of them are available for possible uptake. Only fractions of that then ends up in the seeds and fruits we eat.

All that said, the warnings about chem-treated pallets originate from garden methods using them, then became universal “rules”. (Pallet garden potentials are so numerous, I’m not even going to talk about them here – they rate an entire article.)

Point is, don’t blanketly accept conventional wisdoms without thinking them through. They may not even apply (or are total bunk). Some stuff, for some/many people, is worth stressing. Some stuff isn’t.

Water Storage

Speaking of safe and unsafe, the conventional wisdom is that we don’t want to store plastic containers, particularly of water, on concrete due to the chemical interaction that allows contaminants to enter our foods. There’s some hot-not and storage-duration wiggle room, and while I tend to err on the side of caution in this case (and when it comes to previous milk containers), there’s some myth-truth proposals here http://www.preparednesspro.com/myths-and-facts-of-water-storage to spur analytical thinking.

For the most part, I don’t really see how laying cardboard, 2×4’s, or 1×4’s under plastic barrels and buckets destabilizes them unless somebody gets really cute (or stingy). Personally, I’m a big believer in keeping stuff up off the floor, period. Even beyond chemical interaction concerns, being able to stack stuff also comes in handy, both to maximize storage space and in some cases to make it easier to use.

One point to note about water in particular is that it’s heavy. Not only does that apply to any rack we use, it also applies to container sizes. The older I get and more injuries I accumulate and heal, the more I’m willing to downsize. That includes containers for dry goods and water.

It’s just easier to build structures for, pull down, move, clean, and refill a 3-6 gallon bucket than a 35-55 gallon barrel. About the only remaining exceptions in my various storage are wheeled trash cans.

*Those are not food safe, either, if it’s a concern – told you I’d make heads spin. (Most of my trash cans hold mylar-bagged foods and animal evac feed and supplies; some are wash/laundry water catchment).

As-Is Uses

There’s lots pallets can do for us even if we’re not yet DIY-ers, and lots that requires minimal building skills. For one, just getting stuff off the ground, as mentioned above. That can be hay, mulch, bagged amendments, toolboxes in our sheds or outdoors, food storage buckets and barrels, or creating elevated resting platforms and feeding stations in pens or pastures that tend to get muddy.

They can help keep our boots cleaner – and to some degree limit the risk of slipping in wet and icy weather – by creating walkways, and prevent ATVs, Gators, carts, and bikes from bogging down or tearing ruts on trails and in gardens. They can also decrease or eliminate risks and wetness from ditches and seasonal streams, making getting around faster and easier.

Steps & Rails

If we’re on a tight budget, we might find we can use a boost as well as a stepping stone. We might also decide that a step or hill is a little too much for us as we age, get pregnant, or face injury. Pallets can help us there, too, and it tends to be a ridiculously easy build.

Go easy on how high we go with these things – I’ve seen some crazy. They are wood and even treated, they are eventually going to rot and crack, and need replaced. Also, make sure you anchor these things together and to the ground.

If you want or need steps or a sidewalk past mud, a hand rail is usually a fantastic idea, even if it’s just posts somebody can snag. We can turn other pallets into those rails to increase safety and ease.

Simple Builds

There are plenty of other simple builds out there that at most require splitting, hanging, or trimming an as-is pallet to size, adding some screws or in some cases a hinge, a few hooks, and some cord or chain. The ease makes pallets a valuable learning tool (and confidence boost) for preppers who are just dipping their toe into DIY. The in-expense also means if there’s a screw-up, no big. Scrap lumber is handy to have around.

Some of the simplest ways to use pallets is just to slap three or four of them together to make a work bench, desk, countertop, or table. Flip that on its side, link a few in series, and you’ve got a leaf mold or compost heap. With a sturdy wall or a couple of convenient trees and $3-10 in hardware, and you can make one or two pallets into a permanent or Murphy-bed style station that functions as a desk, a table, or a workbench, indoors or out.

With some additional screws and hooks or disassembled boards, we can use a wall or those handy trees to hang our tools in a shed or outside the garage. We can also hang them from the sides of our tables or benches.

For a really simple build, just fix a handful of shipping pallets together with deck screws (flip-flop which side is up as you stack to increase shelf depth). Add caster wheels and it’s a rolling storage shelf or workbench.

With some cinder blocks or some 4x4s, we can create shelving with very little building experience, using whole pallets, pallets that are cut in half to make shallower widths, or disassembled boards. (Remember: even a pint canning jar is heavy on its own and holds another pound worth of liquids or foods – use healthy boards and consider doubling them up.)

Another super-simple build using just deck screws is stacking a few pallets and adding one perpendicular to form an L shape. Set that on some cinder blocks and top with a mattress, seat cushions, or pads and you’ve got a bench seat or day bed. Some additional lumber or blocks creates storage spaces for totes, baskets, or drawers salvaged from a wrecked dresser or filing cabinet.

If you’re after some inexpensive yard, starter-home, or bug-out location furniture, the sky is the limit and the internet is just full of ideas. Personally, I’m not much for the rustic pallet look, but with a coat of paint or whitewash, our pallets can get prettier if and where it matters.

Fencing & Pens

Another fantastic use for pallets that requires little DIY experience is fencing for our dooryards, gardens, and animals, to protect trees, or just to increase our privacy a little. We can use them pretty much as-is and connect them to each other, standard fenceposts, or poles we make our or a neighbor’s overgrown saplings and trimmings. We can also pull a board or two from each to cut at an angle and drive into the ground for stability or to use as an overlapping connector between pallets.

If heights of 18-24” work instead of 3-4’, we can very quickly halve our pallets and double the area we enclose. We can also totally or partly disassemble them and churn out top-rail or a 2-3 rail plank fencing, or do some extra cutting for an HOA-acceptable picket fence.

If we have problems with raccoons reaching through our poultry and rabbit fencing, we can brace whole or half-height pallets against our existing runs to add depth. Likewise, they can create a buffer to allow some grazing but keep chickens and goats from eating something to the trunk or roots.

We can also take pallets apart and reassemble them in a solid wall if our birds/hares like to do dumb stuff like huddle in a corner where something can get its claws through – there’s little worse than a disassembled critter the predator couldn’t even get out to eat.

I said I wasn’t going to talk about pallet gardens, but when it comes to fencing, that’s actually one of the benefits they offer. Pallet fences allow us to grow vertically either on the protected inside or on the outside of critter pens where our critters can’t reach, or both.

Pallets for Preppers

Pallets can be an excellent step into the world of DIY for beginners, as well as help everybody save money. Gardens, livestock feeders, and sheds are big enough categories to really rate their own articles, but there’s so much more. If you’ve got a need, see if somebody has a how-to using pallets, but don’t forget that pallets are also just board lumber waiting to be sanded.

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alexhalex94 · 4 years ago

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Garden Wall Art Ideas to Brighten Up Your Garden

We are all so obsessed and preoccupied by the walls of our interior that we tend to forget about the walls of our exterior. Although they are the first thing someone looks when they come to your home. Well addressed exterior walls can set the tone of your home and be the first powerful impression you can make. If you neglect your exterior walls and the wall of your garden then no matter how much effort you put in the interior decoration, your home will always look incomplete and unfinished. Garden walls need just as much attention as the interior ones. These are just like the walls inside our homes, they provide the opportunity to display art, show a part of your personality, and cover any loopholes there might be. If you have invested in outdoor furniture Chattanooga or comfortable lounging chairs then the walls surrounding that area should also look pleasing to the eyes. Garden walls stand tall for years and years, surviving the harsh weather, holding back earth and water and serving as a barrier between you and the world outside. It only deserves that we pay attention to them as well. There are so many simple, DIY, reusable, fancy and easily available options to consider. From simple cloth flags with buttons, butterflies or cute puppies on them to elaborate metal or stone structures, small fountain or potted plants hanging in varied sizes and styles. Scour your department store’s garden section, your local hardware, lumber yard or home improvement stores for unique ideas and things. Make your garden walls sit beautifully in the yard far into the future.

Another important part in the outdoors is the garden fences; one should also pay attention to them and use them to decorate with interesting details. If your family is outdoorsy and enjoy sunset from time to time, planning a Sunday brunch with friends and family or evening barbecues are your thing then decorating garden walls is a must. Make your al fresco living space inviting and appeasing. You can’t leave them unattended and boring, if you do so the whole garden will look mundane and dull. Dressing them up with love, care and innovative ideas will bring up the whole look of your home. Below are some ideas to perk up the garden with wall arts.

1. Add a touch with tools

Ever wondered what to do with all the old tools, taking up so much space? Creative home decorators and gardeners use them for garden wall art. Feature your tools as an art on fences, make trellis to climb trees or stimulate your inner artist to make animals like birds, cats from compilation of old rusty tools. Some like the rustiness of the tools, others give it a complete make-over with a coat of bright color paint. You can also go for a combination of tools, metal wheels and old license plates, they seem to go perfectly well with each other and give a unique look.

2. Stonework wall

Go for a short one or a relatively big one, these stone walls give a vibe of mid-century England and never go out of style. Humans love these picturesque structures that delineate and divide. These are the most permanent form of decorations and always stay relatable.

3. Feature wall brimming with greenery

Make a statement with a vertical wall garden especially if the space is limited in your patio or deck. Create a feature wall covered with Mother Nature and give the perfect background to your exterior. Use plants that are native to your region and climate. Who wants browns peeking through the otherwise perfect green wall, right? You can also play with various sizes of planters, mounted in the wall to give it a unified yet different look. Paint the planters in bright colors to give it an even more interesting and playful look.

4. Customized sign

Add value and make your garden walls stand out with a customized sign. Let everyone know that your garden is very much unique and well attended to. Take your garden to the next level with a sign made of either aluminum which unlike other metals doesn’t rust. You can also opt for a wooden one with colorful paint and patterns on it.

5. Dress up the walls with mirrors or metal

A stunning metal timepiece, sculpture or mirror can be the focal point of the place it is hung on. It is no different while decorating garden walls. Yes, I agree the placing of the mirror should be highly considered, so it’s never in the direct path of the sun or bird's flight path. Having said that, a perfect mirror in the perfect setting, can make your garden soar to new heights of decoration. If your garden is small, placing a mirror will give the illusion of a faux window making it appear bigger and more spacious. Add twinning tendril of ivy and a small window box to complete the illusion. We can also accentuate garden walls with metal structures that are meant to be mounted flat against walls. Available in sorts of shapes, sizes and designs such as; sun, moon, unicorns, spray of flowers, owls, butterflies. They come with a degree of permanence and more weather resistant.

6. Unusual hangings

Sometimes you can truly make a mark by thinking outside the box. How about a bicycle mounted to the wall in a bright neon color? Trust me; you won’t regret it for a minute. It will appear as if it is coming out of the wall. Its front basket can be made useful by planting in some flowers. You can also attach starry lights around it to make it glow in the night. Bring in some uniqueness, decorate with garden hoses, paint them in colors you like and make flower, dragonfly or butterfly out of it. It will look cheerful and add a breath of freshness to your exterior.

You can take inspiration from the above mentioned ideas or come up with your own unusual garden wall art ideas.

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darwinbigelow · 6 years ago

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DIY Floating Deck, Part 2: Frame & Waterproofing

I’m building a floating deck in my back yard! Catch the whole thing, start to finish, right here.

Hey guys! It’s time for the next post in this long-awaited (at least, for me!) update. I’ve finally gotten enough coffee in my system and quieted the dogs long enough to finish this post and give you another written + video combo.

Brace yourselves, we’ve got a lot to cover!

If you recall from the first post where I talked about the deck plan, I shared the overall design, explained some of the decision making that went in, and where my challenges/research led.

Once I’d come up with my overall plan�� it was time to get to work!

Recommended tools and materials

May contain affiliate links or links to related posts

miter saw

drill

drill bits

impact driver

GRK 2 1/2-inch screws

GRK 3 1/8-inch screws

GRK 4-inch structural screws

4-ft level

Ground Contact lumber – 2x6s, 2x4s, and 1x4s (more on why below)

composite shims

3 3/4″ concrete screws

hammer drill (if you don’t have one of these, you can get a kit like this that will adapt your impact driver)

deck blocks

landscape fabric

gravel

shovel or mattock

stainless steel brackets/joist hangers

Ground Contact lumber

One of the biggest new pieces of info I picked up as I made my deck plan was discovering that I would likely need to use Ground Contact lumber for the entire project. I was excited to bring Wood Its Real onboard as a sponsor, and I’m so glad I did when I did, because it was through them that I learned about these new recommendations.

As common sense would tell you, outdoor wood projects need more protection than the stuff you’d use on the interior. And most of you probably also know about using “pressure treated” or PT wood for common outdoor projects to make them last longer. But as of 2016, there are new guidelines designating what kind of pressure-treated lumber should be used, and when. As you might guess, part of it is in the name. Since termites and fungi and all sorts of nasty critters live in the ground, that type of contact is especially important to protect against. There are a few other scenarios where Ground Contact is recommended:

Wood will come in contact with soil, vegetation, leaf litter, and debris that can hold moisture for extended periods of time.

You don’t expect good air circulation, especially on the underside and between decking boards.

Wood components are installed less than six inches above the ground and are supported by treated wood or concrete without a moisture-transferring barrier/break.

Wood is in direct contact with material that already shows signs of decay.

Wood gets wet on a very frequent, recurring basis and doesn’t have time to dry adequately.

You are building in a tropical climate.

Well, whaddya know… my new deck is going to meet a LOT of that criteria!

I noticed that my local Lowe’s was kind of half-and-half about having Above Ground and Ground Contact lumber, but the nearby Home Depot seems to have switched out almost all of theirs for Ground Contact. Honestly, it makes sense with a store’s limited shelf space.

Building a floating deck frame

Build outer frame

I began by cutting and building the outer frame. I could have started with the deck blocks and supports and laid it all out, but for whatever reason, this way just seemed to make more sense to me.

For the outer frame, I pre-drilled each hole and used exterior screws. Don’t waste your time like I did! Use exterior screws that don’t need pre-drilling. Like the Ground Contact lumber, you spend a little more for better quality materials. It’s worth it.

Elevate and level out

The frame, at this point, was screwed together, but it was still a rickety mess. To keep the corners square, I reinforced them with a piece of scrap lumber. I would later discard these once the rest of the frame and other supports went in.

I also lifted up the frame using some scrap lumber and my 4-foot level (one of my favorite hand-me-downs from my grandfather). It’s normal for things like this to still have a s l i g h t slope for water runoff (it only looks level, but isn’t), so I noted the way the level looked when laying it on the patio and tried to match the same slope with the deck frame.

Space out supports

I marked every 16 inches and placed another 2×6 in the frame. The longest boards I brought home were 12 feet, but the deck is longer at one end. So, I added another board a couple of feet from the end to give the 12-foot boards something to screw into. Kinda easy, but it helps to have someone assist by holding up all the other ends.

At all corners and in the one spot where I used a 4×4 to help elevate the deck, I added self-tapping structural screws (at this point, I finally bought better ones that didn’t require pre-drilling). For the rest of the structure, I went back through and secured with self-tapping 3 1/8″ fasteners (you can just do this the first time and avoid the double effort!). I also added some stainless steel brackets on some of those joists that I thought were high enough off the ground to add it.

Note: hardware not pictured — I did a lot of second-guessing myself at one point and chose to add more hardware/brackets on the joists of the highest side as the deck boards went on. But since some of my research argued against using it in areas with direct ground exposure, I used them only where I thought applicable. I can really only say “use your best judgment and consult a structural engineer” if you have questions, since this is still my first time building something like this — and, of course, I’m a homeowner messing with her own house, not a professional contractor. This thing mostly sits on the ground, so I’m not super worried about falling down and/or not lasting for as long as I want it. But as with any large build, one tutorial is never enough! It’s always best to read multiple tutorials and make the most informed decision possible. <3

Waterproofing a deck

Somehow, a deck, the Wicked Witch, and cotton candy have the same greatest foe: water.

To combat this (at least, in the deck’s case), there are a number of different options. While we may call this “waterproofing”, what we’re really talking about is adding moisture barriers to help the wood dry out as quickly as possible. Rot is still a natural inevitability with just about everything; we’re just trying to prevent that as best we can. They’re all good suggestions, but doing a combination of more than one seemed like the right option for me:

Using ground contact lumber (6 inches or less above ground, in contact with concrete, etc.) –

Laying down landscaping fabric and gravel under the deck –

Brushing a sealant on cut joist ends

Using flashing tape on the frame (prevents water from sitting in between the deck boards and the joists) –

After spacing out the deck blocks and digging them down, I surrounded everything with landscaping fabric and gravel. K did most of the hauling, so he gets full credit on that (we wound up thinning out the gravel a little from these pictures to use under the shed too, but you get the idea).

I spent some time adding more braces to reinforce the structure as well. Then, I began adding flashing tape.

In order for the flashing tape to stick, the surface needs to be clean and dry. However, this whole deck was built as the spring rain storms swept through, so that was much easier said than done. In Georgia, spring can often be a full day of threatening rain (but not actually raining), or intermittent storms, or blazing sun. It’s always a toss-up. Hard to plan for outdoor projects when the rain is exactly what needs NOT to happen in order to get to the next step!

Whenever the rain splashed dirt on the wood, we’d wait for things to dry out and then apply the tape. A cheap dish brush (that I’ve used for outdoor projects in the past) made quick work of getting things clean.

Since the weather wasn’t always the best assistant, there was a lot of skipping around. We basically spread out the gravel, applied flashing tape, and put in a bunch of braces between the joists all at once… whichever was the easiest to accomplish in the moment.

Building a deck over a concrete patio

I put off what I thought was going to be the hardest part until the end. I’d been reading and researching a lot on this part, and I found my answer on Family Handyman. In order to create a small section over the concrete patio, I would have to screw wood “sleepers” into the concrete. Then, after lining it up with the rest of the frame, I could add the decking on top.

But, once again, one of the more important things to keep in mind is wood touching (or rather, not touching) concrete. I had already built the new frame to have a gap between the outer frame and and the sides of the patio, to which I also added gravel. Then, we drilled a drainage hole in the corner and fit a plastic pipe through (this is potentially where we might try to run power in the future out into the yard, but we didn’t actually do any of that yet… it’s more of a “let’s plan to maybe do this just in case we want it later” type deal).

In my research, I found that if I put some type of composite/plastic product in between the wood and the patio, the deck would last longer. But the thinnest composite trim I was able to find at the store was still too thick to fit the 2×4 on top and still have it line up with the rest of the frame. Enter: plastic shims.

As a solution, I stacked the 2x4s on top of 1x4s (yes, Ground Contact!) and cut them to length at 45-degree angles. I then used the plastic shims to elevate them and get to the correct height.

Using a hammer drill and specialty drill bit (it comes with the concrete screws), I slowly found a way to screw through and line it up. Basically, I put the 1×4 in place and marked for screws every wo feet. Then, I pre-drilled through the wood with a normal drill bit. Next, I drilled through the hole with the concrete drill bit into the patio. This marked the hole in the right place so I could continue with just the hammer drill.

Tip: drill a little bit at a time and deeper than you’ll need. Pull the drill bit back out of the hole periodically to help remove dust and drilling the hole a little deeper will prevent the remaining dust in the hole from clogging things up when you fasten the screw down.

Once the 1×4 and shims were fastened to the patio, I stacked the 2×4 on top and screwed them into the 1×4.

In some cases, shims were needed multiple times, but the main objective was to get it all to line up with the rest of the frame.

You can see in the pic below that I had cut composite trim to attempt to use them as spacers… oh well! Guess now I have to find a use for a long piece of plastic trim that I can’t return (I already have an idea for use in the kitchen).

Once things were all in place, more flashing tape went on top (though I cut the roll in half this time instead of thirds, since the boards were wider here).

I also wrapped corners where I thought screw holes or joints would allow moisture.

And just like that, we were ready to start adding the deck boards! In the next post in this series, I’ll cover the decking process in detail, along with a nifty tool that worked extremely well and kept things evenly spaced. It was a little extra work to get an angled deck instead of laying the deck boards straight, but in the end, I think it’s totally worth it!

Thanks so much for following along, friends! I hope you found this helpful so far. If it’s beneficial to you, I’d love it if you subscribed for more updates so you don’t miss the next deck post. There will be a few DIYs in between that I’ve been meaning to cross off my to-do list for summer (plus, it’s nice to break things up, because it feels like my whole LIFE has been about this deck for the last month!

), so you’ll see those next!

The post DIY Floating Deck, Part 2: Frame & Waterproofing appeared first on Ugly Duckling House.

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#home improvement

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georgeycowell · 6 years ago

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DIY Floating Deck, Part 2: Frame & Waterproofing

I’m building a floating deck in my back yard! Catch the whole thing, start to finish, right here.

Brace yourselves, we’ve got a lot to cover!

If you recall from the first post where I talked about the deck plan, I shared the overall design, explained some of the decision making that went in, and where my challenges/research led.

Once I’d come up with my overall plan… it was time to get to work!

Recommended tools and materials

May contain affiliate links or links to related posts

miter saw

drill

drill bits

impact driver

GRK 2 1/2-inch screws

GRK 3 1/8-inch screws

GRK 4-inch structural screws

4-ft level

Ground Contact lumber – 2x6s, 2x4s, and 1x4s (more on why below)

composite shims

3 3/4″ concrete screws

hammer drill (if you don’t have one of these, you can get a kit like this that will adapt your impact driver)

deck blocks

landscape fabric

gravel

shovel or mattock

stainless steel brackets/joist hangers

Ground Contact lumber

Wood will come in contact with soil, vegetation, leaf litter, and debris that can hold moisture for extended periods of time.

You don’t expect good air circulation, especially on the underside and between decking boards.

Wood components are installed less than six inches above the ground and are supported by treated wood or concrete without a moisture-transferring barrier/break.

Wood is in direct contact with material that already shows signs of decay.

Wood gets wet on a very frequent, recurring basis and doesn’t have time to dry adequately.

You are building in a tropical climate.

Well, whaddya know… my new deck is going to meet a LOT of that criteria!

Building a floating deck frame

Build outer frame

I began by cutting and building the outer frame. I could have started with the deck blocks and supports and laid it all out, but for whatever reason, this way just seemed to make more sense to me.

Elevate and level out

Space out supports

Waterproofing a deck

Somehow, a deck, the Wicked Witch, and cotton candy have the same greatest foe: water.

Using ground contact lumber (6 inches or less above ground, in contact with concrete, etc.) –

Laying down landscaping fabric and gravel under the deck –

Brushing a sealant on cut joist ends

Using flashing tape on the frame (prevents water from sitting in between the deck boards and the joists) –

I spent some time adding more braces to reinforce the structure as well. Then, I began adding flashing tape.

Building a deck over a concrete patio

As a solution, I stacked the 2x4s on top of 1x4s (yes, Ground Contact!) and cut them to length at 45-degree angles. I then used the plastic shims to elevate them and get to the correct height.

Once the 1×4 and shims were fastened to the patio, I stacked the 2×4 on top and screwed them into the 1×4.

In some cases, shims were needed multiple times, but the main objective was to get it all to line up with the rest of the frame.

Once things were all in place, more flashing tape went on top (though I cut the roll in half this time instead of thirds, since the boards were wider here).

I also wrapped corners where I thought screw holes or joints would allow moisture.

), so you’ll see those next!

The post DIY Floating Deck, Part 2: Frame & Waterproofing appeared first on Ugly Duckling House.

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.yuzo_related_post img{width:170px !important; height:170px !important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb{line-height:14px;background:#ffffff !important;color:#454747!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb:hover{background:#ffffff !important; -webkit-transition: background 0.2s linear; -moz-transition: background 0.2s linear; -o-transition: background 0.2s linear; transition: background 0.2s linear;;color:#454747!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb a{color:#102a3b!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb a:hover{ color:#113f5e}!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb:hover a{ color:#113f5e!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb:hover .yuzo__text--title{ color:#113f5e!important;} .yuzo_related_post .yuzo_text, .yuzo_related_post .yuzo_views_post {color:#454747!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb:hover .yuzo_text, .yuzo_related_post:hover .yuzo_views_post {color:#454747!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb{ margin: 0px 6px 0px 6px; padding: 0px 0px 0px 0px; } jQuery(document).ready(function( $ ){ jQuery('.yuzo_related_post .yuzo_wraps').equalizer({ columns : '> div' }); }); from Home https://www.uglyducklinghouse.com/diy-floating-deck-part-2-frame-waterproofing/ via http://www.rssmix.com/

#construction

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alexrodriguespage · 6 years ago

Text

DIY Floating Deck, Part 2: Frame & Waterproofing

I’m building a floating deck in my back yard! Catch the whole thing, start to finish, right here.

Brace yourselves, we’ve got a lot to cover!

If you recall from the first post where I talked about the deck plan, I shared the overall design, explained some of the decision making that went in, and where my challenges/research led.

Once I’d come up with my overall plan… it was time to get to work!

Recommended tools and materials

May contain affiliate links or links to related posts

miter saw

drill

drill bits

impact driver

GRK 2 1/2-inch screws

GRK 3 1/8-inch screws

GRK 4-inch structural screws

4-ft level

Ground Contact lumber – 2x6s, 2x4s, and 1x4s (more on why below)

composite shims

3 3/4″ concrete screws

hammer drill (if you don’t have one of these, you can get a kit like this that will adapt your impact driver)

deck blocks

landscape fabric

gravel

shovel or mattock

stainless steel brackets/joist hangers

Ground Contact lumber

Wood will come in contact with soil, vegetation, leaf litter, and debris that can hold moisture for extended periods of time.

You don’t expect good air circulation, especially on the underside and between decking boards.

Wood components are installed less than six inches above the ground and are supported by treated wood or concrete without a moisture-transferring barrier/break.

Wood is in direct contact with material that already shows signs of decay.

Wood gets wet on a very frequent, recurring basis and doesn’t have time to dry adequately.

You are building in a tropical climate.

Well, whaddya know… my new deck is going to meet a LOT of that criteria!

Building a floating deck frame

Build outer frame

I began by cutting and building the outer frame. I could have started with the deck blocks and supports and laid it all out, but for whatever reason, this way just seemed to make more sense to me.

Elevate and level out

Space out supports

Waterproofing a deck

Somehow, a deck, the Wicked Witch, and cotton candy have the same greatest foe: water.

Using ground contact lumber (6 inches or less above ground, in contact with concrete, etc.) –

Laying down landscaping fabric and gravel under the deck –

Brushing a sealant on cut joist ends

Using flashing tape on the frame (prevents water from sitting in between the deck boards and the joists) –

I spent some time adding more braces to reinforce the structure as well. Then, I began adding flashing tape.

Building a deck over a concrete patio

As a solution, I stacked the 2x4s on top of 1x4s (yes, Ground Contact!) and cut them to length at 45-degree angles. I then used the plastic shims to elevate them and get to the correct height.

Once the 1×4 and shims were fastened to the patio, I stacked the 2×4 on top and screwed them into the 1×4.

In some cases, shims were needed multiple times, but the main objective was to get it all to line up with the rest of the frame.

Once things were all in place, more flashing tape went on top (though I cut the roll in half this time instead of thirds, since the boards were wider here).

I also wrapped corners where I thought screw holes or joints would allow moisture.

), so you’ll see those next!

The post DIY Floating Deck, Part 2: Frame & Waterproofing appeared first on Ugly Duckling House.

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.yuzo_related_post img{width:170px !important; height:170px !important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb{line-height:14px;background:#ffffff !important;color:#454747!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb:hover{background:#ffffff !important; -webkit-transition: background 0.2s linear; -moz-transition: background 0.2s linear; -o-transition: background 0.2s linear; transition: background 0.2s linear;;color:#454747!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb a{color:#102a3b!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb a:hover{ color:#113f5e}!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb:hover a{ color:#113f5e!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb:hover .yuzo__text--title{ color:#113f5e!important;} .yuzo_related_post .yuzo_text, .yuzo_related_post .yuzo_views_post {color:#454747!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb:hover .yuzo_text, .yuzo_related_post:hover .yuzo_views_post {color:#454747!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb{ margin: 0px 6px 0px 6px; padding: 0px 0px 0px 0px; } jQuery(document).ready(function( $ ){ jQuery('.yuzo_related_post .yuzo_wraps').equalizer({ columns : '> div' }); }); DIY Floating Deck, Part 2: Frame & Waterproofing published first on https://vacuumpalguide.tumblr.com/

0 notes

petraself · 6 years ago

Text

DIY Floating Deck, Part 2: Frame & Waterproofing

I’m building a floating deck in my back yard! Catch the whole thing, start to finish, right here.

Brace yourselves, we’ve got a lot to cover!

If you recall from the first post where I talked about the deck plan, I shared the overall design, explained some of the decision making that went in, and where my challenges/research led.

Once I’d come up with my overall plan… it was time to get to work!

Recommended tools and materials

May contain affiliate links or links to related posts

miter saw

drill

drill bits

impact driver

GRK 2 1/2-inch screws

GRK 3 1/8-inch screws

GRK 4-inch structural screws

4-ft level

Ground Contact lumber – 2x6s, 2x4s, and 1x4s (more on why below)

composite shims

3 3/4″ concrete screws

hammer drill (if you don’t have one of these, you can get a kit like this that will adapt your impact driver)

deck blocks

landscape fabric

gravel

shovel or mattock

stainless steel brackets/joist hangers

Ground Contact lumber

Wood will come in contact with soil, vegetation, leaf litter, and debris that can hold moisture for extended periods of time.

You don’t expect good air circulation, especially on the underside and between decking boards.

Wood components are installed less than six inches above the ground and are supported by treated wood or concrete without a moisture-transferring barrier/break.

Wood is in direct contact with material that already shows signs of decay.

Wood gets wet on a very frequent, recurring basis and doesn’t have time to dry adequately.

You are building in a tropical climate.

Well, whaddya know… my new deck is going to meet a LOT of that criteria!

Building a floating deck frame

Build outer frame

I began by cutting and building the outer frame. I could have started with the deck blocks and supports and laid it all out, but for whatever reason, this way just seemed to make more sense to me.

Elevate and level out

Space out supports

Waterproofing a deck

Somehow, a deck, the Wicked Witch, and cotton candy have the same greatest foe: water.

Using ground contact lumber (6 inches or less above ground, in contact with concrete, etc.) –

Laying down landscaping fabric and gravel under the deck –

Brushing a sealant on cut joist ends

Using flashing tape on the frame (prevents water from sitting in between the deck boards and the joists) –

I spent some time adding more braces to reinforce the structure as well. Then, I began adding flashing tape.

Building a deck over a concrete patio

As a solution, I stacked the 2x4s on top of 1x4s (yes, Ground Contact!) and cut them to length at 45-degree angles. I then used the plastic shims to elevate them and get to the correct height.

Once the 1×4 and shims were fastened to the patio, I stacked the 2×4 on top and screwed them into the 1×4.

In some cases, shims were needed multiple times, but the main objective was to get it all to line up with the rest of the frame.

Once things were all in place, more flashing tape went on top (though I cut the roll in half this time instead of thirds, since the boards were wider here).

I also wrapped corners where I thought screw holes or joints would allow moisture.

), so you’ll see those next!

The post DIY Floating Deck, Part 2: Frame & Waterproofing appeared first on Ugly Duckling House.

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.yuzo_related_post img{width:170px !important; height:170px !important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb{line-height:14px;background:#ffffff !important;color:#454747!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb:hover{background:#ffffff !important; -webkit-transition: background 0.2s linear; -moz-transition: background 0.2s linear; -o-transition: background 0.2s linear; transition: background 0.2s linear;;color:#454747!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb a{color:#102a3b!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb a:hover{ color:#113f5e}!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb:hover a{ color:#113f5e!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb:hover .yuzo__text--title{ color:#113f5e!important;} .yuzo_related_post .yuzo_text, .yuzo_related_post .yuzo_views_post {color:#454747!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb:hover .yuzo_text, .yuzo_related_post:hover .yuzo_views_post {color:#454747!important;} .yuzo_related_post .relatedthumb{ margin: 0px 6px 0px 6px; padding: 0px 0px 0px 0px; } jQuery(document).ready(function( $ ){ jQuery('.yuzo_related_post .yuzo_wraps').equalizer({ columns : '> div' }); }); DIY Floating Deck, Part 2: Frame & Waterproofing published first on www.uglyducklinghouse.com

0 notes

lowmaticnews · 6 years ago

Text

DIY Floating Deck, Part 2: Frame & Waterproofing

I’m building a floating deck in my back yard! Catch the whole thing, start to finish, right here.

Brace yourselves, we’ve got a lot to cover!

If you recall from the first post where I talked about the deck plan, I shared the overall design, explained some of the decision making that went in, and where my challenges/research led.

Once I’d come up with my overall plan… it was time to get to work!

Recommended tools and materials

May contain affiliate links or links to related posts

miter saw

drill

drill bits

impact driver

GRK 2 1/2-inch screws

GRK 3 1/8-inch screws

GRK 4-inch structural screws

4-ft level

Ground Contact lumber – 2x6s, 2x4s, and 1x4s (more on why below)

composite shims

3 3/4″ concrete screws

hammer drill (if you don’t have one of these, you can get a kit like this that will adapt your impact driver)

deck blocks

landscape fabric

gravel

shovel or mattock

stainless steel brackets/joist hangers

Ground Contact lumber

Wood will come in contact with soil, vegetation, leaf litter, and debris that can hold moisture for extended periods of time.

You don’t expect good air circulation, especially on the underside and between decking boards.

Wood components are installed less than six inches above the ground and are supported by treated wood or concrete without a moisture-transferring barrier/break.

Wood is in direct contact with material that already shows signs of decay.

Wood gets wet on a very frequent, recurring basis and doesn’t have time to dry adequately.

You are building in a tropical climate.

Well, whaddya know… my new deck is going to meet a LOT of that criteria!

Building a floating deck frame

Build outer frame

I began by cutting and building the outer frame. I could have started with the deck blocks and supports and laid it all out, but for whatever reason, this way just seemed to make more sense to me.

Elevate and level out

Space out supports

Waterproofing a deck

Somehow, a deck, the Wicked Witch, and cotton candy have the same greatest foe: water.

Using ground contact lumber (6 inches or less above ground, in contact with concrete, etc.) –

Laying down landscaping fabric and gravel under the deck –

Brushing a sealant on cut joist ends

Using flashing tape on the frame (prevents water from sitting in between the deck boards and the joists) –

I spent some time adding more braces to reinforce the structure as well. Then, I began adding flashing tape.

Building a deck over a concrete patio

As a solution, I stacked the 2x4s on top of 1x4s (yes, Ground Contact!) and cut them to length at 45-degree angles. I then used the plastic shims to elevate them and get to the correct height.

Once the 1×4 and shims were fastened to the patio, I stacked the 2×4 on top and screwed them into the 1×4.

In some cases, shims were needed multiple times, but the main objective was to get it all to line up with the rest of the frame.

Once things were all in place, more flashing tape went on top (though I cut the roll in half this time instead of thirds, since the boards were wider here).

I also wrapped corners where I thought screw holes or joints would allow moisture.

), so you’ll see those next!

The post DIY Floating Deck, Part 2: Frame & Waterproofing appeared first on Ugly Duckling House.

More Where That Came From

Quick Patio Patch

4 Easy Tips for Growing Hydrangeas

How to Make Your Patio Look New Again for Less Tha...

Game of Stones

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0 notes

rolfpetronaz-blog · 6 years ago

Text

DIY Floating Deck, Part 2: Frame & Waterproofing

I'm building a floating deck in my back yard! Catch the whole thing, start to finish, right here.

Hey guys! It's time for the next post in this long-awaited (at least, for me!) update. I've finally gotten enough coffee in my system and quieted the dogs long enough to finish this post and give you another written + video combo.

Brace yourselves, we've got a lot to cover!

If you recall from the first post where I talked about the deck plan, I shared the overall design, explained some of the decision making that went in, and where my challenges/research led.

Once I'd come up with my overall plan… it was time to get to work!

Recommended tools and materials

May contain affiliate links or links to related posts

miter saw

drill

drill bits

impact driver

GRK 2 1/2-inch screws

GRK 3 1/8-inch screws

GRK 4-inch structural screws

4-ft level

Ground Contact lumber – 2x6s, 2x4s, and 1x4s (more on why below)

composite shims

3 3/4″ concrete screws

hammer drill (if you don't have one of these, you can get a kit like this that will adapt your impact driver)

deck blocks

landscape fabric

gravel

shovel or mattock

stainless steel brackets/joist hangers

Ground Contact lumber

One of the biggest new pieces of info I picked up as I made my deck plan was discovering that I would likely need to use Ground Contact lumber for the entire project. I was excited to bring Wood Its Real onboard as a sponsor, and I'm so glad I did when I did, because it was through them that I learned about these new recommendations.

As common sense would tell you, outdoor wood projects need more protection than the stuff you'd use on the interior. And most of you probably also know about using “pressure treated” or PT wood for common outdoor projects to make them last longer. But as of 2016, there are new guidelines designating what kind of pressure-treated lumber should be used, and when. As you might guess, part of it is in the name. Since termites and fungi and all sorts of nasty critters live in the ground, that type of contact is especially important to protect against. There are a few other scenarios where Ground Contact is recommended:

Wood will come in contact with soil, vegetation, leaf litter, and debris that can hold moisture for extended periods of time.

You don't expect good air circulation, especially on the underside and between decking boards.

Wood components are installed less than six inches above the ground and are supported by treated wood or concrete without a moisture-transferring barrier/break.

Wood is in direct contact with material that already shows signs of decay.

Wood gets wet on a very frequent, recurring basis and doesn't have time to dry adequately.

You are building in a tropical climate.

Well, whaddya know… my new deck is going to meet a LOT of that criteria!

I noticed that my local Lowe's was kind of half-and-half about having Above Ground and Ground Contact lumber, but the nearby Home Depot seems to have switched out almost all of theirs for Ground Contact. Honestly, it makes sense with a store's limited shelf space.

Building a floating deck frame

Build outer frame

I began by cutting and building the outer frame. I could have started with the deck blocks and supports and laid it all out, but for whatever reason, this way just seemed to make more sense to me.

For the outer frame, I pre-drilled each hole and used exterior screws. Don't waste your time like I did! Use exterior screws that don't need pre-drilling. Like the Ground Contact lumber, you spend a little more for better quality materials. It's worth it.

Elevate and level out

I also lifted up the frame using some scrap lumber and my 4-foot level (one of my favorite hand-me-downs from my grandfather). It's normal for things like this to still have a s l i g h t slope for water runoff (it only looks level, but isn't), so I noted the way the level looked when laying it on the patio and tried to match the same slope with the deck frame.

Space out supports

At all corners and in the one spot where I used a 4×4 to help elevate the deck, I added self-tapping structural screws (at this point, I finally bought better ones that didn't require pre-drilling). For the rest of the structure, I went back through and secured with self-tapping 3 1/8″ fasteners (you can just do this the first time and avoid the double effort!). I also added some stainless steel brackets on some of those joists that I thought were high enough off the ground to add it.

Note: hardware not pictured - I did a lot of second-guessing myself at one point and chose to add more hardware/brackets on the joists of the highest side as the deck boards went on. But since some of my research argued against using it in areas with direct ground exposure, I used them only where I thought applicable. I can really only say “use your best judgment and consult a structural engineer” if you have questions, since this is still my first time building something like this - and, of course, I'm a homeowner messing with her own house, not a professional contractor. This thing mostly sits on the ground, so I'm not super worried about falling down and/or not lasting for as long as I want it. But as with any large build, one tutorial is never enough! It's always best to read multiple tutorials and make the most informed decision possible.

Waterproofing a deck

Somehow, a deck, the Wicked Witch, and cotton candy have the same greatest foe: water.

To combat this (at least, in the deck's case), there are a number of different options. While we may call this “waterproofing”, what we're really talking about is adding moisture barriers to help the wood dry out as quickly as possible. Rot is still a natural inevitability with just about everything; we're just trying to prevent that as best we can. They're all good suggestions, but doing a combination of more than one seemed like the right option for me:

Using ground contact lumber (6 inches or less above ground, in contact with concrete, etc.) –

Laying down landscaping fabric and gravel under the deck –

Brushing a sealant on cut joist ends

Using flashing tape on the frame (prevents water from sitting in between the deck boards and the joists) –

I spent some time adding more braces to reinforce the structure as well. Then, I began adding flashing tape.

In order for the flashing tape to stick, the surface needs to be clean and dry. However, this whole deck was built as the spring rain storms swept through, so that was much easier said than done. In Georgia, spring can often be a full day of threatening rain (but not actually raining), or intermittent storms, or blazing sun. It's always a toss-up. Hard to plan for outdoor projects when the rain is exactly what needs NOT to happen in order to get to the next step!

Whenever the rain splashed dirt on the wood, we'd wait for things to dry out and then apply the tape. A cheap dish brush (that I've used for outdoor projects in the past) made quick work of getting things clean.

Since the weather wasn't always the best assistant, there was a lot of skipping around. We basically spread out the gravel, applied flashing tape, and put in a bunch of braces between the joists all at once… whichever was the easiest to accomplish in the moment.

Building a deck over a concrete patio

I put off what I thought was going to be the hardest part until the end. I'd been reading and researching a lot on this part, and I found my answer on Family Handyman. In order to create a small section over the concrete patio, I would have to screw wood “sleepers” into the concrete. Then, after lining it up with the rest of the frame, I could add the decking on top.

But, once again, one of the more important things to keep in mind is wood touching (or rather, not touching) concrete. I had already built the new frame to have a gap between the outer frame and and the sides of the patio, to which I also added gravel. Then, we drilled a drainage hole in the corner and fit a plastic pipe through (this is potentially where we might try to run power in the future out into the yard, but we didn't actually do any of that yet… it's more of a “let's plan to maybe do this just in case we want it later” type deal).

As a solution, I stacked the 2x4s on top of 1x4s (yes, Ground Contact!) and cut them to length at 45-degree angles. I then used the plastic shims to elevate them and get to the correct height.

Tip: drill a little bit at a time and deeper than you'll need. Pull the drill bit back out of the hole periodically to help remove dust and drilling the hole a little deeper will prevent the remaining dust in the hole from clogging things up when you fasten the screw down.

Once the 1×4 and shims were fastened to the patio, I stacked the 2×4 on top and screwed them into the 1×4.

In some cases, shims were needed multiple times, but the main objective was to get it all to line up with the rest of the frame.

You can see in the pic below that I had cut composite trim to attempt to use them as spacers… oh well! Guess now I have to find a use for a long piece of plastic trim that I can't return (I already have an idea for use in the kitchen).

Once things were all in place, more flashing tape went on top (though I cut the roll in half this time instead of thirds, since the boards were wider here).

I also wrapped corners where I thought screw holes or joints would allow moisture.

And just like that, we were ready to start adding the deck boards! In the next post in this series, I'll cover the decking process in detail, along with a nifty tool that worked extremely well and kept things evenly spaced. It was a little extra work to get an angled deck instead of laying the deck boards straight, but in the end, I think it's totally worth it!

Thanks so much for following along, friends! I hope you found this helpful so far. If it's beneficial to you, I'd love it if you subscribed for more updates so you don't miss the next deck post. There will be a few DIYs in between that I've been meaning to cross off my to-do list for summer (plus, it's nice to break things up, because it feels like my whole LIFE has been about this deck for the last month!

0 notes

clarencemartinse-blog · 7 years ago

Text

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Even though rose gardening takes a small more time and roses are a little more work, they are one of the most distinctive and stunning plants, and certainly really worth the extras that are essential. Placement. Pay interest to where you want to put your landscape components on your home. As mentioned above, try to location vegetation that need more drinking water (like trees) on reduce ground. Other placement concerns consist of mild required by the plants. Property sections to the west and the south frequently obtain more mild. They are also generally drier. Make sure that your placement of plants in your landscape reflects their needs. Now, operating for your self is extremely much like possessing your own home based company. Operating for yourself could imply that you turn out to be a middleperson and link a purchaser and a vendor together on eBay. You could also be an affiliate for other people and promote their goods. You could get paid out as higher as seventy five%twenty five in commissions with sites like ClickBank and PayDotCom. Your diary can be as simple as a spiral notebook or as fancy as a bound diary you can buy at the shop. If you are good at drawing, you can also make sketches of your vegetation in your diary. If you end up living in the exact same place for numerous years, your gardening diary can be a small piece of background for your family members. Your family members will cherish those memories for a life time. There are also various styles to select from. You can have a style shaped like a barn, like your home, or like a little log cabin in the woods. You can lookup on-line to find the right appear for your back yard. OK, so you have decided that you want some decking in the backyard. A fast measure up, work out the area, get some decking planks and a few joists for the body and absent you go! Quit! Rushing things via without correct planning will lead to head aches later. The professionals know what they require instinctively, but the typical gardener will require to strategy issues cautiously. In selecting a site, it is important to think about safety and the place of the shed. Also think about elements that will affect landscaping. Don't forget to locate underground more than head utility traces. In some instances, it may be sensible to choose a different place for your outdoor shed to avoid interfering with utilities. In all cases, it is essential to be aware of utility placement. Always call your local utilities company before you dig. One great way to save money on winter season heating expenses is insulating your attic. The amount of warmth that rises and is misplaced via the attic in the home will add up quickly over the many years. Most hardware shops sell insulation, and installing it yourself is fairly simple. A few years ago, I worked on a political campaign for a company colleague and friend. She didn't get but I learned a little bit about assisting to save the environment. Now, I deliberately don't reside exactly where I can stroll to the shop, to lunch, and so on. but I can employ a Gardening Books and use green gardening tools instead of gas driven mowers, edgers, and so on.

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oldguardaudio · 7 years ago

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Windham Weaponry News -> Windham Weaponry 6.5 Creedmoor Rifle

Windham Weaponry at HoaxAndChange.com

Windham Weaponry @ Hoax and Change

Vol. 6 / Issue #8 / Aug. 2017

MARKETING NEWS

Mark Eliason, VP Sales & Marketing

In the history of long range competition shooting, there may not be any more famous name than Creedmoor.

Competition shooting was very popular in the last half of the 19th Century, and the newly formed National Rifle Association (1871) worked with the New York State legislature to acquire and develop 70 acres of land bought from a Mr. Creed near what is now Queens, New York on Long Island. The Creedmoor Rifle Range was opened in June of 1873 for the purpose of holding matches and promoting long-distance rifle shooting.

In 2007, Hornady developed the 6.5mm Creedmoor centerfire rifle cartridge which while a close cousin to the .300 Winchester Magnum in trajectory, offers the benefits of lower recoil and shorter case length – enabling it to work in the AR-10 platform.

So, following on the success of our Windham Weaponry .308 models, we proudly introduce the Windham Weaponry 6.5 Creedmoor Rifle. Featured below, and with full details at www.windhamweaponry.com this 20″ barreled tack driver offers an appealing combination of features and accessories for the dedicated long distance shooter. Take one out to the range, and you’re sure to make Mr. Creed proud!

To see all our rifles and accessories, go to www.windhamweaponry.com

or call us for a free catalog (1-855-808-1888) – We would love to hear from you.

As always, hunt and shoot safely, and feel free to contact us with any AR related questions.

This Month’s Feature Rifle:

Windham Weaponry 6.5 Creedmoor Rifle

Caliber: 6.5 Creedmoor

Type: Rifle, Semi-Automatic, Gas Impingement System

Weight/Length: 9.15 lbs. / 39.25″ overall

Magazine: 5 Rounds (Ships with one 5 Round Magazine) Receivers: Forged 7075 T6 Aluminum Flat Top Upper. Lower has Integral Aluminum Trigger Guard Receiver Finish: Hardcoat Black Anodized Finish with Laser Engraved Caliber Marking

Trigger: Hiperfire EDT3 Trigger

Bolt: Carpenter 158 Steel

Barrel: 20″ Fluted Stainless Steel. Threaded Muzzle (5/8″ x 24 T.P.I.) to accept various muzzle devices. Includes Stainless Steel Muzzle Protector.

Barrel Material: 416R Stainless Steel

Rifling: 1 x 8″ Right Hand Twist

Stock: Luth-AR Buttstock with adjustable butt plate & cheek rest

Forend: WW 15″ Free Floating Forend

Pistol Grip: Hogue Overmolded Beavertail Pistol Grip

Rear Sight: None – Ready for optics or other type accessory sights

Front Sight: None – Ready for accessory sight on Railed Forend

Includes: Lockable Hard Plastic Gun Case, Full Color Operators Manual, Transferable Lifetime Warranty, and Black Web Sling

MSRP: $1732.75

See your local FFL Dealer to purchase.

If you ever have questions about your rifle, please feel free to call

Windham Weaponry Customer Service (Toll Free: 1-855-808-1888). Shoot Safely!

FROM THE GUNSMITH’S BENCH

Erik Winter, Windham Weaponry Gunsmith

TOPIC: Installation of the Arms Unlimited Ambidextrous Magazine Catch

First make sure the rifle is unloaded, and then separate the upper receiver from the lower receiver.

Using the chamber plug or another small tool, push the magazine catch button in as far as you can into the receiver. Unscrew the mag catch from the button and remove.

Insert the ambi magazine catch all the way into its slot in the receiver and push the magazine catch spring in with the button and get the button started on the threads of the mag catch. Turn it in until you can turn it no further.

Push the button in as far as you can into the receiver and turn the ambi magazine catch in about 4 or 5 turns then let it seat into the receiver. The magazine catch stud should be flush with or just under the face of the magazine catch button.

Now you can unlock the magazine with the trigger finger of either hand.

BUY IT NOW

CUSTOMER SERVICE CORNER

Cheryl Eliason, Customer Service Manager

This Month’s Question is:

I am interested in your 7.62x39mm rifle – Model R16M4FTT-762.

Will standard AK magazines fit this rifle?

Answer:

No, AK type magazines do not work in our 7.62×39 rifle. The magazine needs to be an AR style magazine to be able to be retained properly in the lower receiver. The magazines we are currently shipping with our 7.62×39 rifles (shown ) are heavy steel construction and designed for that cartridge.

Magazines designed to be used in an AR15 platform in the 7.62x39mm caliber should work.

Here is the AR Platform 30 Round 7.62 Magazine that we sell:

https://shop.windhamweaponry.com/products/8448670-762×39

Questions?

Send them to: [email protected] or [email protected]

WINDHAM WEAPONRY FEATURED PRODUCTS

Matt Hasty, Retail Sales Manager

Magpul M-Lok BiPod Mount

PART#: BIPOD-ADPT-MLOK Price: $22.95

The Magpul M-LOK Bipod Mount allows for the attachment of Harris®-style stud mounted bipods to M-LOK compatible hand guards and forends. This Mount offers a low-profile, robust, and elegant mounting solution for the most common bipods on the market. By utilizing the direct-connect properties of the M-LOK system, the bipod sits closer to the mounting surface than other adapters while providing superior support to the bipod for strength and stability. The Bipod Mount is also compatible with other accessories that attach to traditional sling studs. Machined from milspec-anodized aluminum, the M-LOK Bipod Mount also features beveled ends and corners to reduce snagging and sharp edges. All hardware necessary for attachment directly to M-LOK Slots on either aluminum or polymer hand guards and forends is included. Max overall length of 2.33 in. Made by Magpul in the U.S.A.

BUY IT NOW…

Want to Order? or If You Have Questions?

Call Customer Service / Sales 1-855-808-1888

LAW ENFORCEMENT

Todd J. Coons, VP Law Enforcement & International Sales

WHAT’S NEW IN LAW ENFORCEMENT

As many of you know, Cindy and I also handle the International Sales here at Windham Weaponry. This, along with the LE sales in the US, is keeping us very busy, but I just wanted to share that as of this week Windham Weaponry is now shipping to 31 countries! This is for both commercial sales as well as government sales around the world. We are very excited about all of our new calibers and configurations so please feel free to reach out to Cindy or me for special LE/Military pricing on any of the new items. We also have some opportunities for those of you out there to attend one of our armorer’s courses around the country. Here is a link with those current opportunities, but please check back as we are working on adding a few more locations to the list very soon.

https://www.windhamweaponry.com/law-enforcement/law-enforcement-training

To qualify to attend a class you must have at least one of the following; Hold a current and valid permit to carry concealed, have a current FFL or work for a business that has a current and valid FFL, Be an active police officer or a retired officer covered under HR218.

Please reach out to my assistant Cindy Thompson, or me with any questions or to sign up for one of our classes. [email protected] or [email protected]

Stay safe out there,

Todd J. Coons

Vice President, Law Enforcement & International Sales

In this Section, we encourage our customers & friends to send their comments, photos and experiences with Windham Weaponry products. What are you doing with your Windham?

A fine shooter, and customer, in Arizona sent us a

target photo of

the dime sized group he shot with his

Windham Weaponry R16SFST – 308.

He says:

Attached is a photo indicating just how accurate your R16SFST – 308 rifle barrel is. Keep up the good work!

100 yard load work-up 168 grain Sierra MatchKing BTHP IMR 4895 Powder

**********

Please feel free to send your photos, stories and Windham Weaponry experiences to:

[email protected] We look forward to hearing from you!

There is something going on EVERY DAY

at the Windham Indoor Shooting Range.

Here is a Direct Link to buy Muddy Girl Rifle Raffle Tickets:

https://www.windhamindoorshootingrange.com/product-page/raffle-ticket-to-benefit-making-strides

For more details on all that the

Windham Indoor Shooting Range & Retail Store

has to offer every day, see:

www.windhamindoorshootingrange.com

The Windham Indoor Shooting Range, where “Training Begins at the Door.”

999 Roosevelt Trail / Windham, Maine 04062 / Tel.: 207-892-0274

Windham Weaponry News -> Windham Weaponry 6.5 Creedmoor Rifle Windham Weaponry News -> Windham Weaponry 6.5 Creedmoor Rifle Vol. 6 / Issue #8 / Aug. 2017…

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nertinews-blog · 8 years ago

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The Internet-requested, incompletely logical testing of Ultra-Ever Dry (in HD!) We set the covering against a can, a Slip-n-Slide, and one editorial manager's dignity.

You've seen the video, isn't that so? A picture of what resembles a purplish blue hued metal floor plate shows up, supported by a few "Roads Have No Name" guitar knock-off. A secretive hand is preparing to splash this thing with a press bottle brimming with water, yet the principal squirt yields astounding outcomes. Water globules up and shoots off the surface, leaving the plate completely dry. At that point the title: "What is Ultra-Ever Dry?"

That grouping has played out about two million times through YouTube (it's actually more famous than some authority Justin Bieber offerings). The video is an unending cycle of things disregarding water, mud, oil, earth, paint, and different stickiness without any difficulty. Ultra-Ever Dry cases to be a "progressive super hydrophobic covering that repulses water and refined oils utilizing nanotechnology." Clearly, either the organization has made an agreement with the fiend and increased extraordinary forces, or it is very brave skilled materials individuals.

We were similarly as stunned as the majority of you were, and we knew we needed to attempt this stuff out. Two hundred dollars and one cost report later, I had a container loaded with Ultra-Ever Dry jars sitting on the floor of my office, prepared to be connected to things different and sundry.

We would not simply like to get some Ultra-Ever Dry and enlighten you regarding it, however—we'd much rather demonstrate you. Our call for remarks on what we ought to test it with yielded some brilliant thoughts. Equipped with your input, a DSLR, and a cameraman (the ever-quiet Steven Michael, who has helped me photo a few NASA pieces), we hit the tool shop for provisions and spent the end of the week shooting video.

To begin with: Reader prudence is prompted

The Ultra-Ever Dry coatings in their fluid state depend on xylene (base coat) and CH3)2CO (best coat) and transmit intense measures of vapor. Applying the coatings to anything inside a house or loft is totally impossible. Indeed, even outside, coming anyplace close to the stuff requires nitrile gloves and a P100-evaluated respirator fitted with natural vapor channels.

Main concern: in case you're anticipating getting some Ultra-Ever Dry for yourself and applying it, please take the proper security insurances. Many individuals had beforehand shown that they'd love to splash this stuff everywhere on their lavatories. I beyond any doubt as damnation wouldn't do that in my home.

Test One: Glass and can

The glass

We commence our testing with a 10"×12" cut sheet of fortified glass, with the edges taped off for security. Ultra-Ever Dry was connected to the other side of the glass and left to dry overnight.

Ultra-Ever Dry is a two-section covering. There is a base coat that must be connected and left to dry for 20 to 30 minutes and a top coat which should then be connected and left to dry for an additional 30 minutes least. The Ultra-Ever Dry covering itself is not straightforward; it leaves a whitish murkiness on things when connected (different hues are accessible in case you're requesting in adequate amount, however). The uniformity of that murkiness—and eventually the adequacy of the Ultra-Ever Dry covering—is reliant on the application procedure. For most extreme viability, the Ultra-Ever Dry must be connected in a firmly controlled, thin, even layer (a wet thickness of 76 to 127 microns for the base layer, as per the documentation).

The mottled, overcast appearance of the glass demonstrates the constraints of our application technique. We utilized the trigger hand sprayers accessible from the Ultra-Ever Dry store, yet we were not able get anything moving toward a uniform covering with them. In decency to the Ultra-Ever Dry people, they told me that the hand sprayers would be deficient for something besides extremely easygoing use and that I ought to utilize an air compressor and pneumatic sprayer with a fine tip estimate. Unfortunately, I couldn't organize access to this sort of hardware in the testing time I had accessible.

In case will apply Ultra-Ever Dry to anything straightforward like a cruiser cap visor or auto windscreen or glasses—well, don't. Be that as it may, on the off chance that you completely should, you ought to take after Ultra-Ever Dry's proposals and utilize an application technique which will yield a fine, notwithstanding covering. Despite everything you won't generally have the capacity to see through it, however.

The latrine

There were a considerable measure of solicitations for me to shower the Ultra-Ever Dry on a latrine in my home. Ha no, we're not doing that (nor are we placing it in my shower, or my bath, or whatever else I really need to touch).

Be that as it may, our conciliatory can from the tool shop fared astoundingly when covered with the stuff. The distinction between the treated and untreated part of the bowl when pelted with water and crap wet gardening soil is self-evident. That being stated, Ultra-Ever Dry is "air fueled"— its capacity to repulse water and oil relies on upon having the capacity to trap a thin layer of air. While Ultra-Ever Dry's documentation demonstrates that the covering when legitimately connected will remain water-repellant at a profundity of one foot for quite a long time," "you may need to occasionally deplete a can with Ultra-Ever Dry connected to the bowl (contingent upon the way water twirls around your latrine when you flush it) so as to give it "a chance to energize."

Likewise, I don't know I'd set my under districts close to the stuff, as introduction can bring about skin aggravation.

Test Two: The garage

Water on cement

Demands that we test Ultra-Ever Dry's capacity to repulse snow on cement were normal, yet that is unthinkable in my area. I'm in southeast Houston, and snow is something we see here and there 10 years (in March when we did the testing, day by day highs were looking move down into the 80s).

In any case, you can see above what happens to a little fix of solid carport when water is connected to it: the water floodgates off the treated area. Examination of the treated territory more than a few minutes really demonstrated a wet fix crawling further and additionally down over the treated range, which is in all likelihood because of my hand sprayer utilization of the covering. Whenever appropriately and equally connected, the stuff will cheerfully seal your garage or walkway far from water.

Toward the finish of the video, taped a few hours after the fact, something startling happens: substantial drops of water are indicated sitting stationary on the treated area. The water doesn't have enough mass to move down the garage, so it stays set up until it dissipates. This could possibly imply that a treated garage after a rain tempest may wind up wetter than an untreated carport, contingent upon how much rain has fallen and how soak the garage is.

The other conceivable symptom of covering your garage is defiled keep running off. The covering work I did brought about no little measure of overabundance Ultra-Ever Dry being carted away by water or rubbed off by my fingers the first run through each treated question was dealt with (you can see a thin film of Ultra-Ever Dry back in the primary video in the water gathering at the base of the can, for instance). Some measure of Ultra-Ever Dry will more likely than not be stolen away of your treated carport and into your yard and your tempest sewer, and I don't recognize what the potential outcomes of that may be.

After one week

Seven days subsequent to taping this, I re-tried the treated area of the carport and found that displayed definitely no superhydrophobic properties by any means—it had returned to consistent garage. The Ultra-Ever Dry site makes specify that the item is fairly helpless to UV introduction, however my application strategy will probably fault than whatever else. On the off chance that you anticipate applying Ultra-Ever Dry to your walkway or walkway, you should be fastidious with the application. Hand sprayers are just not going to cut it.Keyboard

I don't know that I'd need to connect the treated console to any PC I think about. Despite the fact that the Ultra-Ever Dry covering obviously chips away at the outside, to appropriately coat a console with the stuff you'd have to dismantle the whole thing—evacuate keycaps, take out the elastic arch tangle and PCB—and hit everything. And, after its all said and done, the console would likely just be water-safe, contingent upon the exhaustiveness of your covering.

In the video, the water shoots ideal off the keys and into the channels between them, gathering inside the console body. I didn't try checking usefulness of the console subsequent to splashing it, since a water-repellant surface with water-defenseless guts doesn't generally get you in particular.

Ice 3D shape plate

The ice 3D shape plate showed no substantive contrast in their capacity to hold and discharge ice—indeed, ice in the untreated plate slipped out somewhat less demanding than the treated one. This may be expected to the plate being fresh out of the plastic new and made of favor blue plastic. A few remarks called for testing with metal plate rather, yet to be honest, I've never observed metal ice 3D shape plate.

(For what it's worth, I needed to chase at Wal-Mart for ice solid shape plate by any means—I've never possessed any and never knew anybody without an ice 3D square creator in their cooler. The blue ones highlighted here were the main ones I could discover.)

Wipe

Another prevalent demand was to coat a wipe to perceive how the Ultra-Ever Dry covering crosses over any barrier between the permeable wipe's openings. The watched answer is "kind of well yet not that extraordinary when you truly get down to it."

The Ultra-Ever Dry makes it so that the wipe at first seems to repulse water the same amount of as the treated reinforced glass, and extensive globs skitter rapidly off of its surface. In any case, drops of water held in position on the wipe will gradually saturate it. Encourage, when submerged, the wipe demonstrations like a wipe, affably sucking up water similarly as the untreated wipe does.

There don't have all the earmarks of being any focal points to treating a wipe. I certainly wouldn't wash my auto with the treated wipe, as the Ultra-Ever Dry grants a fairly rougher surface to things.

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