#I cannot speak highly enough of these gents

[badmarilynart]

Am I posting these photos everywhere because I can't get over the fact this actually happened? yea 😭❤️

[italianoldmasters-jlvieites]

Raphael and Raimondi’s The Judgement of Paris vs Manet’s Déjénenuer sur l’herbe, and Titian’s Pastoral Concert

It might look bizarre at first sight but there is always a link to be followed to understand much better the history of Art throughout time. On this occasion I wish to show what possible links might have ever existed between Rafael's The Judgement of Paris through Marcantonio Raimondi's engraving of the work (c.1510-20) and Édouard Manet’s Déjeneur sur l’herbe (1863), and Titian’s Pastoral Concert (1509).

The great humanist of the Renaissance, Pietro Bembo, was responsible for putting the perfection of Nature and Raphael’s art on the same level; the epitaph in Raphael’s tomb reads something like “Here lies Rafael. While he lived, Nature saw herself defeated. Now that he is dead, she is afraid to die with him."

His genius, indeed, was unique, so much so that many ulterior artists of all centuries strove to imitate or, at least, to be influenced by the artistry of the great old master: The classicist Baroque had him as his guide, from Annibale Carracci to Carlo Maratta and Velázquez, who resided for a time at the Vatican; or the Flemish masters, like Rubens and Van Dyck; and even the great Rembrandt. We could continue with Ingrès (in his portraits) to the compositions of Géricault and Delacroix, and to Édouard Manet, whose Breakfast on the grass was inspired by the stamp of Marcantonio Raimondi depicting the Judgement of Paris (as designed by Raffaello). Well, Rafael was the teacher to whom painters like Goya, or Picasso looked at.

In fact, our great old master, Raphael, was considered for centuries to come as the great teacher everyone studied and whose spatial conquests, grouping of figures and capturing of emotions and characters had to be thoroughly understood in order to achieve success themselves.

At the age of 17 Rafael was already signing as an independent artist, admired for the perfect imitation of his teacher. His painting stood out for the elegance and serenity or the delicacy and sweetness of the figures in the manner of Perugino, as well as for the beauty of the landscape backgrounds inspired by the Umbrian mountains; Rafael also achieved expressive depth and emotional vibration, which would increase in later years.

Being in Florence to learn from the great masters Leonardo and Michelangelo, Rafael, although he leaned towards Leonardo's proposals, since he would be attracted by his technique, color and chiaroscuro, and would not, however, be interested in delving into his sfumato nor did he use Michelangelo's pure white light with a sculptural effect. His command of space was overwhelming, as proved in his work School of Athens.

 Collaboration in Renaissance arts is best seen in this engraving of Marcantonio Raimondi with the design of Raffaello. The Trojan war lies at the centre of this historiated engraving: Paris being forced to decide which goddess—Juno, Minerva, or Venus—was the most beautiful. He chose Venus, seen receiving the golden apple upon promising to help him woo the most beautiful woman alive, Helen of Troy.

It is assumed that Marcantonio’s copperplate is executed from drawings that were produced for a Vatican fresco.

Due to the difficulty of distinguishing between the work of the two artists –Giorgione and Titian– who started to forge a kind of partnership in artistic terms, this painting was first attributed to Giorgone (1671) and then opinions on the author have been changing back and forth many times. Today, it’s commonly assumed to be the work of a young Titian. After the death of Giorgione in Venice because of the plague in 1510, the only true master left was Tiziano Vecellio as, perhaps, Giorgione’s natural heir.  

A most mysterious work in terms of allegorical interpretation (are the female nudes muses, or nymphs? Do they refer to Poetry? Is the composition a sort of Pastoral Poetry in painting?) which, perhaps, lacking in enough referents for the audience of the XXI century, however, there would probably be clues enough to the educated spectators of the Titian’s time to interpret the painting in the context intended by the artist and his time. In this regard, the setting of the whole composition evokes a kind of Arcadian context in which both man and nature lived in perfect harmony (see Theocritus, Virgil, Jacopo Sannazzaro). Thus, the two men figures, sitting on the grass surrounded by a great landscape –a shady hillside overlooking sunny glens and a distant mountain vista–, are accompanied by a couple of nude females who (supposedly) cannot be seen by either of them. And this seems so since the two men are amicably speaking to one another, oblivious to the two female nudes representing the idealized Renaissance beauty. This type of recourse has its origin in classical Roman times where it was a usual artistic tool in that art. Technically, Giorgione’s subject matter and style left his impromptu on Titian’s works; Giorgione would be the first Venetian to put aside Giovanni Bellini’s oil glazes in favour of a straightforward oil painting, that was to be apply with different densities and even allowing for the thick impasto seen in some canvasses, something that was followed suit by Titian.

Titian's poem to rural escape is famous for being parodied by Manet's Le Déjeuner sur l'herbe.

"Insults pour down on me like hail," Manet complained to Baudelaire after seeing the hostile reception of his work at the Salon des Refusés in 1863.

Manet’s painting introduces a motif the impressionists would love – the bourgeois picnic – but with a tough irony all its own. Manet deliberately evokes Renaissance paintings of sensual leisure – Raimondi’s engraving and Titian’s painting – but updates the idyll to show bohemian gents of his own class accompanied by women who may be prostitutes (what is a naked woman doing sitting in the company of two supposedly clothed gentlemen?) It's a scene of the outskirts of Paris daily life disguised as a rustic fantasy. Therefore, what Manet reflects is not any classical myth nor religious topic, just an ordinary scene but with the eyes of a XIXth century artist and a particular social milieu which love such representations.

As was the case at the time, female nudes were highly sought after and really appreciated, as long as they represented mythical personae or just goddesses; many viewers loved to contemplate the paintings that included nudes as if they were voyeurs; the point is, however, that Paris society (or French or European in general!) perceived the public exposure of  the naked body of a known woman (in real life or in canvas) as being a prostitute;  something which our main female character seems not to give importance to the voyeuristic gazes that she might be attracting; her pose is quite natural and she does not seem to be bothered or untroubled by the look of it. Furthermore, both she and the man are looking straightforward to the spectator in a certain nonchalant and confident way. One could even say that the naked woman (one of Manet’s most famous models, by the way, called Victorine Meurent) is nearly challenging the spectator’s gaze with her serene, jolly and carefree manner.

The Judgement of Paris, c. 1510-20. Engraving (29.1 x 43.7 cm). The MET. New York. Marcantonio Raimondi (c.1480-c.1534)

Pastoral Concert or Fête champêtre, c.1508-10. Oil on canvas. 105 x 137 cm.  Musée du Louvre, Paris. Tiziano Vecellio, (Pieve di Cadore, 1488/1490 - Venice, 1576)

 Le Déjenuer sur l’herbe, 1863 Oil on canvas. 208 x 264.5 cm. Musée d’Orsay. Paris. Édouard Manet (1832-1883)

 Jesús Lorenzo Vieites

#titian #tiziano #titien #leconcertcampêtre #fêtechampêtre #pastoralconcert #louvre #art_lovers #museum_lovers #landscape #venetian_school #venetian_painting #peinture_italienne #kunstgeschichte #mount_parnassus #poesie #giorgione #arthistorian #édouard_manet #manet #impressionism #marcantonio_raimondi #engraving #art_history #kunstgeschichte

[iabsolutelyresentthiswebsite]

Before I begin, I must say something: I am an empath...or if you don’t believe in that- highly intuitive. Since I became depressed, it has actually heightened my empathic ability...like, if I see someone whose eyes are red, I will start crying unless I make a sincere, concerted effort to force myself not to. When I was younger, I was able to sense peoples’ emotions simply by touching them. I remember one of my friends had their back to me and I touched their back and started crying instantly. They looked up at me with tears in their eyes. They just lost a relative, but I didn’t know until after the fact. 

But we’re not here to talk about me.

As most of you know, by my profile picture, I met David Archuleta on March 3rd. Sweetest. Guy. Ever. Best. Hugs. Around. Genuine. Beautiful. Human. Being. 

I cannot stress enough how lovely he is. His energy is so positive and so soothing. And it was really wonderful to meet him because it humanized him more than I already accepted. (Meanwhile, I was the sane one at VIP lol)

Meeting him went better than a dream. I do wish I was able to speak to him more, but we shared some kind of weird connection that I really can’t describe. We hugged 3 times in the span of like 3 minutes and one hug was pretty long actually. His hugs...I just...cannot describe. They say “home is in your arms”, but I would more classify it as “heaven is in his arms”, okay? Not tryin to sound creepy, ‘ight! His hugs are so tight, yet gentle and so calming. I would love those hugs on demand. My anxiety would be nonexistent. Anyone feel me? 

Moving on to what I was intending to write about before getting distracted.

The last hug we shared, the one that was longer than the other two and felt really intimate tbh...his positivity and happiness was deafened a little by...a subtle loneliness. I didn’t quite pick up on exactly what it was at first, but after sorting through the feeling for a few, I realized it was...loneliness. And that, of course, made me really sad.

He spent a lot of the show bringing everyone’s spirits up...making the ladies, and probably even some gents, feel good about themselves. I know he had that affect on me. His speeches were beautiful, heartfelt, and honest. Most especially, the “Light” speech where he’s basically saying how beauty isn’t just physical, it’s about the light within. That speech got to a lot of people. Touched a bunch of hearts that night. I felt that.

But what struck me was when he was performing “My Kind of Perfect” on March 3rd. I was excited to hear it because it is...my favorite song of all time. But the third verse was always my favorite part, but the way he performed it...my brain and abilities--weirdly--honed in on his emotions. When he sang the phrase “And I keep wondering how and when and why I haven’t met you”, I felt like a knife just slid across my chest. It was so powerful. So...vulnerable. It dawned on me...he ...really feels that way. 

David Archuleta, the most wonderful man I’m sure many of us have ever sort of known, is...lonely. He’s heartbroken.

And I’m distracted with that realization for a lot of the rest of the show. 

How does he not have someone to come home to? What happens with the girls he dates? He’s apparently still single and...I don’t understand how. He deserves so much happiness in the world and he deserves to find someone who loves him unconditionally and that he hasn’t really hurts me...and of course, him. 

Maybe I’m reading crazy into everything, but I worry about him. He’s 27 and apparently has never had a girlfriend and I don’t understand how. He is lovely, a sweetheart, so gentle, so passionate, and so optimistic. Now, I know I don’t know him personally and he most definitely has some flaws I am not consciously aware of, but that doesn’t negate all the good features he has. 

We all know how important it is to him to find someone and to have a family so that he isn’t able to is probably heartbreaking to him. And it’s heartbreaking to me...as an empath who cares deeply about him. 

Thank you all for reading my TedTalk.

[aruneshgoyal]

No More Autumn In Your Loving Arms

The station & the rush, the milling crowds, whistles of trains, amidst all this A gentleman reading newspaper Somebody calls out – would you please care to listen to me? Reply (gentleman) – why not? Somebody – how long do you intend to stay here? (very odd question…….somebody out of his mind????) Somebody – what are you thinking?

Gentleman – why do you want to know all this about me? Somebody – actually, I wanted to know whether you are waiting for some train or…….. Gentleman – I don’t think people come to railway station for picnics! (Somebody feels like laughing but seeing and observing the gentleman’s seriousness, controls himself) …… Gentleman opens newspaper ……… Somebody – I would like to leave my belongings with you for some time. Gentleman – I don’t quite understand you. What are you doing? Somebody – I’m not doing anything. Just leaving my luggage…….. Gentleman – How can I take this responsibility? And, how can you trust me?? Somebody – You see, you are in the waiting here and whence, can’t be a thief or a dacoit! Gentleman – but can be a conman!! Somebody – this epithet hardly befits you!!! Gentleman – if you are so idealistic, then you cannot afford to trust anybody at all, especially on a railway station such as this!            ….. Moreover, you can’t go by clothes these days!! Somebody – your thoughts are yours. In independent India, everybody has a right to different opinion! Gentleman – but your thoughts…………. Somebody – that’s exactly why…..don’t worry…..my belongings are not very costly! 

(one water can, one bag and one hold-all) Gentleman – oh! I see…….. (begins to smile) Somebody (extending his hand in greeting) – my name is Sishir and I’m going to Kolkata along with my wife! Gentleman (returning the gesture) – I’m Mohit and am waiting for my wife & son coming by train on this platform!! Somebody (Sishir) - Well, in taking care of my belongings, at least, we have come to know each other. I will be back in a minute!

…. Mohit was thinking about Sishir……. Such a carefree and gay abandon personality ……… 25 years ago, I also used to be like that! On the other side, seeing husband coming empty handed ………………………………….. ………………………………………. ……………………………. Whom did you find?

(Porter) … Back to where Mohit was …. Sishir pulled at the bag slightly. “Robbery in broad day light” – you son a bitch, I teach ya a lesson… ………………………

Intro between wife & friend…… Mohit was slightly startled! (If she was what he thought, then why didn’t she recognize him? Sishir had also not told her name so far.) 

…………. …… Don’t wanna go out of station? 

…….. Porter’s bill.

Sishir was apologetic. (TO Mohit): I had no right on you but still I made you watch over my things. I’m extremely sorry. Mohit: What are you saying? In fact, I should be grateful to you. Sishir: Why? What for?? Mohit: Since you reposed your trust in me. (TO his wife): You know, Mugdha? ………………………………………………….. __-------------------------------------------------------Ok! Let’s go!! Bye! Take care!! (Moments of pain, sorrow & distress……..) 

Are you alright? May be due to thirst for water….. (drinking the offered glass of water …… thought Mohit……….. what was just a doubt a moment ago, is now an unqualified truth. My 25 years ago intimate & passionate feelings were cruelly put down and tramped over by destiny……. But the relation that’s now history…… why has she again come to make them Mohanjodaro & Harappa……. It’s true that she has yet not been able to recognize me…… But, what should I do with my heart? Which upon seeing her ……… has suddenly begun to beat faster!!!!!) ………. Sishir (taking back the empty glass of water): How are you now, Mohit Sahib? Alright. May be standing too long in the sun…….made me a wee bit weary. Please sit on the hold-all. Let me fill up the water can from that public tap on the adjacent platform…… Goes but comes back after some time …. This time around, leaving all costly things, even my wife. Take care!

Hearing just the name Mugdha had made Mohit’s heart beat faster…… and to regroup, realign and regain control, he had asked for water…….. Mugdha had been seeing all this. Now, they were alone, close together ……. Mohit upset inside was trying to control and pull things around ….. when suddenly, Mugdha, out of nowhere, suddenly asked – How are you now? And, Mohit almost jumped from his seat on the hold-all. What happened? Why have you so suddenly stood up?? Mugdha was highly surprised at Mohit’s abnormal & upset behavior………… ……… …… Such thick glasses? Does he read much?? Yes, of course!!! Mohit turned his neck and knife’s long cut mark on the cheek became visible…….. ……. ….. So, does this intellectual actually believe in violence? Just then, a train arrived……….. …………….. May be, my wife is in the last coach …… and Sishir Babu too has not yet come back……. ….No, No, you must leave …. May I go then …..You go without any hesitation…… If your wife doesn’t find you, she’ll be worried unnecessarily (Mugdha on hold-all) 

Sishir comes back. ….. 

Very late …… rush ……..that gentleman …… Mohit Sahib was put to great trouble ……. Who? …… Mohit Sahib …… And, who is he? …….The gentleman who took care of our belongings ……. You mean to say the guy who was standing here ….. his name is Mohit!

…….Yes, indeed. But why are you so surprised as if you have known him for years ……………………………………………………………. ……………………………………………………………. Let me take leave of Mr. Mohit and then try for our reservation. …………………………………………………….. ………………………………………………………… See, there’s Mr. Mohit! (Mugdha saw that a middle aged man was walking towards them with a raised right shoulder. This right shoulder movement and walk reminded her of her intimate friend – Mohit! BUT………………………………………………………… ……………………………………………………………… ……………………………………………………………… ………………………………………………………….)

This is my wife – Gauri, and my son – Anurag! 

Sishir greeted Gauri. Oh! You are Sharda’s brother-in-law Harish’s brother Girish’s friend!! Isn’t it??? ……………………………….. ……………………… Mugdha, you know Girish. He took me forcefully in his brother’s marriage. How much we had enjoyed……… How is Sharda? Very well.

Mugdha’s intro with Gauri. ……

Mohit: What’s your program ahead? 

Sishir: We have some work on the station. By the way, if you ever come to Kolkata, please stay with us, said he giving his card across to Mohit. 

Mohit: You’ve reservation? …………………………………………… …………………………………………. ………………………………………….  

Reservation not possible today. Mohit: Should I take it then you are coming along? Sishir: What do you say, Mugdha? 

Mugdha: Children are alone! 

Gauri: Matter of 3-4 days only, what do you say, Mohit? Mohit to Anurag: When Gauri is taking full guarantee, what objection can I possibly have? Today, papa also in mood for light hearted banter Your papa doesn’t laugh much? NO Can’t imagine how you became friends?

Sishir – I took the initiative; Gauri: Yes, I know, he just can’t do it (Mugdha was thinking: that Mohit was not this much serious!)

Porter, Anurag – combo Aunty, do you speak less? No, when she speaks, she speaks a lot! Let aunty speak. Which class? Just came in the seventh (Mohit was thinking: that Mugdha used to talk a lot!) Jeep. I’ll sit on front seat with uncle. (Anurag has felt at home with Sishir Babu. ……….No, Aunty is also very good…….) 

Bag inside ………. ………………………….. ………………………… He’s caught up in files all the time……………………….. 

Why so much complaining ……………. .Mugdhaji, please sit comfortably Mumbai’s temples are worth seeing…………. 

We have been here once before….. 

Uncle, once again! 

First, reservation!! 

Why get upset, it’ll be done….

Mohitji must be cursing the moment he agreed to take care of our things ……………………….. 

………………….. What can he think? He has no time from his bulky books! ………… ………………….. Mugdha was surveying the jeep all around …… Mohit’s eyes from within the thick frame were on her with affection …….. she lowered her eyes shiveringly…………. 

Jeep – Mohit’s choice…………….. 

what are you thinking, Mugdhaji …………….. 

nothing, about Mohitji’s choice………………………………………….

Mohit’s face showed up a change of colors……. Is it then the same Mohit……… but that cut mark……………………………………………………… ……………………………………………………………… …………………………………………. 

Mohit: You don’t like jeep; Sishir: We have Contessa

Mohit: I asked Mugdhaji. When Sishir Babu talked about taking care of things, you replied; Gauri: What do you want to say? 

Mohit:  I feel that behind their accepting our hospitality is a hand of destiny (gazing over his shoulder at Mugdha) 

You’ve lot of faith in destiny; 

Destiny has played a big role in my life ………

Hearing this, Mugdha suffered…… only destiny had led to Mohit leaving her life forever and she had not been able to do anything about it in spite of herself…… …………………………………………………………. ………………………………………. 

Jeep stopped at a big iron gate. Doorman / gatekeeper, gardener, servants Mugdha’s eyes were on the garden like her Delhi one Gauri: Did you hear what Mugdhaji just said 

Mohit (with utter carelessness): Good enough! She will be in Delhi while being in Mumbai!! The answer was contrary to Mugdha’s expectations. ………………… ………………………………………………

Sishir Bhaiya, when this building was being built, I had deliberated a lot with him that such a big garden must not be built but he paid no heed to me. …………………………………………. our garden is indeed very beautiful. 

Have a round, Bhabi…………….. 

Anurag’ Speaking parrot

Let’s go inside 

You go. I’ll come in a while 

Come soon.

  Mugdha went to see the garden and was pleasantly surprised to view Delia, Marigold, sunflower and a variety of roses at their brilliant best. A cool breeze began to blow as if in sheer welcome! Gardener – Mohit Sahib takes very good care of the garden. Yellow Daisy, Pink Orchid, Dry leaves!

In right corner, a cluster of trees around which creepers coiled as if in a tight embrace alike a lady in the warm embrace of gent! ……………… gave arise to the suspicion that the householder was in fact, her Mohit only, but how does one explain the long cut mark on cheek of such a non-violent person? At the same time, trees and coiled creepers’ embrace can’t be termed as a mere coincidence! In a hilly area, as snowy rain wraps and envelops a person without shelter, similarly, Mugdha, helpless & lonesome, was caught in the back chain of old memories...……. 

One day, Mugdha was waiting for her father in her garden along with Mohit. ………………………………… ………………………………. Would you like to come in my arms – invited Mohit? ……………………………………………… Until I become an advocate …………………………………………………. Will you be able to demand my hand from my father then? ……………………………………………………………… ………………. I surely can pull you in my arms……………. And let me tell you a secret………………… This creeper has come in the company of this tree of its own; the tree never tried much ………. …………………………………… Understanding the import of what Mohit was implying made her shiver from head to toe. To control and regain composure, she sat down on the lush green grass. ………………………… ………………………… Today, as she remembered that shivering, she just sat beside and alongside a strong tree!

Mohit himself supervised the cleansing of the visitor’s cabin / guest room. 

As he saw through the windows, he found himself more at unease today than other days. Apparently, the right corner of his garden was troubling and tormenting his mind much. How he shall be able to hide himself behind the long cut mark of the knife on his cheek! For how long?? Suddenly, he felt something moving. It was Mugdha sitting on the lawns. He felt like rushing towards her running all the way but then bounds of righteousness made him lie down on the couch all hands up. ……………………………. ………………………. How have you come to my home after so many years to awaken my lost dreams yet again…………………your coming is so unexpected that I’ve not been able to get hold of myself even now……. When you couldn’t become my life partner, then why my guest…………… Finding you right here near me, getting over myself is so difficult and painful ………..will you ever be able to comprehend this? ………………………………………………………… ……….Although it’s quite true that I’ve changed a lot over the last 25 years, but my garden’s right corner having creepers coiling around trees is telling a different story altogether!!

‘Sir’. It was the gardener. Wanted to go towards the garden. Just then was reminded of Mugdha. And, controlled himself somehow, giving up his desire at the altar of righteousness. Sat there itself. ……. …. (Sishir) you are sitting here all alone by yourself. I’m here from the moment you have gone around my house along with your Bhabi. (Mohit to Sishir who is intently watching Mohit): where is Mugdhaji?

Actually, Mohit Sahib, my wife has no liking for bricks, mortar and cement buildings. She is only interested in nature! ……………………………………………………………… ………………………………………

Evening tea! 

(Mathri, Rasgullas, Kachoris, Pede, Kaju Katli; Everybody silently has tea except for Gauri’s insistence) ………………………… 

…………………. …………….  

Occupation? Advocate! Stone devoid of any feelings! 

Man by heart In line with your liking - I.T. Officer!! …………………………………………………… All the handles of your home are adorned with the frame of a young woman playing the sitar; the wooden doors of the rooms have lotus flowers in their lower & upper parts but their middle parts have a waiting young woman; the window grills too are indicative of the frame of a young woman!!! I do believe you have a big & deep scar on your heart! Why cause suspicion in the mind of your Bhabi? 

Can’t believe if any lady ever made him into a Vishwamitra! 

Hear now, no Maneka ever came into my life 

Yes, you reached Maneka ……………………………………………………………… 

I’m not an amorist lover; no Maneka in my life ……. 

But garden’s right corner ……………… 

…………………………

Speaking parrot at it, again!

Betel leaf …….. ……… ……… ……… 

Mohit, Mugdha left in room; Mugdha fighting an agonizing mental tug of war within  herself Please come (sound of temple bells & conch before Aarti) 

Please sit (at a distance of four sofas between them, Mugdha & Mohit study and observe each other) …………………………………. …………………………… …………………….. Do you always remain so quiet? ………………. ………………. You’ve not answered my question. Sitting with her head bowed down in modesty and respect, Mugdha eagerly wanted to hear something from Mohit’s mouth. Just then, Sishir & Anurag came down the stairs. Sorry Aunty, you were left alone with papa to be quietly bored! ……………………………………………………………… ……………………………………………………………… 

Actually even when she is quiet, she seems to be saying and conveying to me a lot!! Saw the play of destiny 25 years ago…………… Let us see what it’s got in store for us this time.

Is it the affection of hospitality or the play of destiny to make me dance to its tune yet again?? Time & again, I’ve to tell him to remain in the present, but he is one of those wounded at heart kings who go into their own realms without any prior notice. ………………………………………………. ……………………………………………. 

Mohitji, you’ve tasted both the teas – with & without sugar. Which one you liked more and why? But, I’ve never tasted the tea which Sishir Babu has. Mugdha almost cringed and writhed with pain all over her face. ……………………………………………………………… ……………………………………………………………… 

Let us today play a game in which one person (to be chosen by lottery and called a thief) shall be caught by the rest (to be called soldiers) one by one. ………………………………………. First of all, Mugdhaji’s name has come by the draw of lots. So, Mugdhaji, you go and hide yourself anywhere in the garden. When you are ready, say “COME”. And, one of us will try to locate and catch you. So, it’s all set up nicely. Mugdhaji is ready and so is Mohitji ready to entrap her. For a long time, Mohitji is unable to find Mugdhaji. He has tried everywhere. The roses, the marigolds, the sunflowers, and so on and so forth, she is nowhere to be seen. Then he suddenly remembers the right corner of his garden. As soon as he goes there, he finds Mugdha looking affectionately and coyly on a fresh creeper trying to coil itself around a strongly rooted tree. Thus, ends round I of our game for today. Anurag wants to continue but just then, Dr. Sharma is seen coming towards the garden along with his wife. Brief introductions follow. Dr. Sharma asks Sishir what he does in Kolkata. Upon coming to know that he is a trader, Dr. Sahib remarks that it’s the time of the traders to reap rich profits to which Sishir replies that the profession of the doctors is the best as there is never a slump in the market over here.

Mohit started unfolding the pages from his past when because of his own undoing, he was not able to get Mugdha: Mugdha was totally devoted towards him. Once, he also felt a sudden weakness and an urge to possess her; in the same frame of mind, he went to her father to seek her from him. Therein, he was able to prove himself to be a good suitor but was unable to declare openly that he had come there expressly for Mugdha. Later on, he had derided himself a lot for his weakness and adherence to principles of morality & ethics! Gauri: This cut mark on the cheek I’m seeing ever since my marriage!

First take my signatures, then write whatever you wish to! Sitting with her head bowed down in modesty & respect, Mugdha indeed looked very lovely and charming!! Mugdha thought had she risen in revolt 25 years ago, she would have been the house-maker instead of being a guest as of now……….

Mohit was thinking about Mugdha, her head lowered with modesty & respect! Mohit was traveling third class while Mugdha was traveling first class along with her father to Delhi.

……….

………..

Mohit always used to bring Kesar-Pista home pack especially for Mugdha in spite of his bad financial condition. 25 years hence, hearing her name from Mohit’s mouth sent Mugdha into a state of virtual trance and supreme bliss.

Mugdha was frolicking from here to there like a golden sparrow or a golden deer.

Past memoirs: Mohit could just not quite bring himself to embrace Mugdha in spite of himself. And, Mugdha thundered – you have disgraced me by not accepting my embrace. Now, I shall not accept anybody else’s embrace too even though I may have to carry out all duties befitting a householder.

(Your garden’s right corner has creepers coiling around trees as if a lady in the embrace of gent!) Mugdha’s hold onto Mohit’s heart was great and she knew it! That’s why she even used to say something, in their moments of togetherness, not agreeable to Mohit, spoiling the whole show!

Just, see my utter helplessness! (You mean to say I didn’t use to laugh like this in Kolkata. Sishir, you’ll never change.)

Before going to Kolkata, if she is unable to know the reason for Mohit’s sudden disappearance 25 years ago, then this stay at Mumbai shall all be a waste…… She found her loneliness welcome respite.

After so many years, finding herself in the lap of nature, she started humming a tune to herself. Since she was in a nightie, her head was lowered and bent down.

How can I make you understand that my marriage is only a social face and not seasonal spring?? It could be possible that each one of us is taking the other one to be the culprit when the real truth could be something else!! If so, I must find out.

Is she stung by the fact that she has not been able to get Mohit into her life?

The truth is that your arms were unable to hold me. Otherwise, I would have been yours, only yours.

END

[projectshakespearia]

Two Gentlemen of Verona: World of the Play Part III

Valentine rescuing Sylvia from Proteus depicted by Angelica Kauffmann in 1789.

Introduction While it may be easy to dwell upon some of the inherent weaknesses in Two Gentlemen of Verona, there are also many merits in this comic caper. Multiple devices, plot strands, and character personalities seem to be templates for Shakespeare’s later (and greater) works. In the oft disputed timeline of the Shakespeare canon, this may have well been his first play. Examining the text as the work of a budding writer experimenting with this craft (I’m imagining my beginning playwriting students here) I can see a talented kid with a lot of great ideas, but not always a strong sense of how to put them together. I’ll say it again, even Shakespeare had to start somewhere! This post will explore some of the stronger attributes of Two Gents and suggest where creative seeds were sown only to bloom fully later in his career.

What Characters! It’s difficult to quantify exactly why Shakespeare remains so adored, so produced, so revered centuries after his death. As a director, I love the possibilities in a Shakespeare play. His plays are playful. The fact that they were initially written to be performed in relatively minimalist conditions with language used to describe setting provides limitless open worlds to interpret and conceptualize. Shakespeare is demanding of actors and demanding of his audiences to imagine and embrace the “theatrical” rather than consume naturalistic representations of “life” as we do in watching film or television. But within these highly fantastical spaces that knit together history, mythology, folk stories, poetry, and romances live characters that breathe. Shakespeare’s characters range from the lowliest of “foolish fools” to the loftiest Kings and Sorcerers from magical sprites to abandoned princesses, but they all share a common thread of humanity and humor. Shakespeare’s characters all possess some spark of the universal which makes them intriguing companions for audiences to join on a two hour journey. (Or, in many cases, four hours.)

In Harold Bloom’s Shakespeare: The Invention of the Human, he posits that in writing before Shakespeare, literary character was relatively unchanging. The likes of Classical figures such as Agamemnon or Oedipus might encounter a revelation for which they suffer and die, but their change occurs due to their relationship to fate or the gods. “In Shakespeare, characters develop rather than unfold, and they develop because they recognize themselves.” He asserts in his collection of essays that Shakespeare essentially “invents” the human in a very humanist sense. Shakespearean characters are capable of growth, change, self-discovery, and self-reflection. This is perhaps one reason actors enjoy playing Shakespeare so much - even when the sense of reality is heightened and theatrical, characters respond to each other and the world around them in relatable ways.

Proteus and Valentine Shakespeare reveals truth about human character and foibles, and heightens these quirks to comic effect. Consider the way in which Proteus instantly shifts his affections from one woman to the next and back again. Proteus draws attention to his own fickle failings: “O heaven, were man but constant, he were perfect!” After everything that Proteus has done at this late point in the play including lying, manipulation, trickery, abandonment, breaking promises, and attempted rape, this underwhelming self-assessment is very funny. Proteus’ journey is one of being repeatedly “metamorphosed” each time he encounters something new: losing Valentine, his journey to Milan, encountering Sylvia, his re-discovery of Julia. Proteus lives up to his name embodying a “protean” man, elastic and possessing many dimensions. While he may represent an extreme plastic and pliable personality, he is nonetheless, perfectly human: flawed, resilient, and capable of change.

Proteus’ absurdly lovesick behaviors are echoed and more developed in later comic and dramatic works. Consider Romeo’s painful infatuation with Rosalind, instantly transformed the moment we sets eyes upon Juliet: “Did my heart love till now? Forswear it, sight! For I ne’er saw true beauty till this night.” Even Romeo and Juliet’s first “tender kiss” is reminiscent of Julia and Proteus’ pledge to “seal the bargain with a holy kiss.” Proteus is a first draft of the besotted Orsino being taught the very nature of love and devotion by a page in disguise or the naively charming Orlando undergoing a similar transformation under the tutelage of Rosalind. Shakespeare loves depicting foolish young men blundering their way in and out of relationships with less foolish young women.

Valentine, too, undergoes great change throughout the play. In the first scene, he eschews the idea of love and chides Proteus: “Love is your master, for he masters you; and he that is so yoked by a fool, methinks should not be chronicled for wise.” But, as his cleverly observant servant, Speed, points out that he, too, has transformed because of love. Valentine admits to Proteus when their reunite in Milan his, “life is altered now.”

Love causes the deeply-rooted friendship to completely alter the objectives of the nascent young lovers. While Valentine turns his newly discovered romantic vigor towards wooing and wedding Sylvia, most of Proteus’ energy goes into undermining both Valentine and Thurio for the sake of winning Sylvia’s heart. Valentine’s sole purpose becomes Sylvia, so much that when he thinks he has lost her, he is no longer “Valentine” but has been reduced to “nothing.” 

Neither of these young men are sophisticated enough to understand love or women and Shakespeare pokes fun at their inability to figure it out without the prodding of those around them, whether it be their servants or the objects of their affection.

Syliva and Julia The female counterparts to the male protagonists are typical of many of other Shakespearean heroines in their cleverness, grit, and maturity. Shakespeare writes his females, whether they are sisters, cousins, or devoted friends in pairs; one wide-eyed and plucky and one slightly sadder and wiser. This template is evident in duos including Helena/Hermia, Rosalind/Celia, Beatrice/Hero, and even Kate/Bianca. In every case, the young female lovers possess wisdom and determination in matters of love and devotion where the male lovers lack these qualities. Even more often do the women teach the likes of Orlando, Orsino, and Claudio how to properly woo a woman and love a woman.

Sylvia and Julia are both delightful constructs of Shakespeare’s imagination, and in many ways better developed that Valentine or Proteus. Both are proactive, although Julia more so, and exercise their own agency to either get what they want or avoid something they don’t want. Both, in her own way, teaches her love interest lessons on love.

Both women are constrained by their social structure not to actively pursue men they are interested in and both, at times, use letters as a means of expressing emotion. In the Elizabethan world, and as Shakespeare points out through Helena in Midsummer, that the idea of a woman wooing a man was against nature and that women were “not made to woo.” In Julia’s first scene with Lucetta, she tries to get around vocally expressing her interest in Proteus, by subtly prodding Lucetta to talk about his qualities instead. When Lucetta delivers a letter from Proteus, Julia denies that she wants to see it. But she, of course, does want the letter. She chides Lucetta in hopes that she will “for the letter to [her] view” because she is a maid. Here Shakespeare emphasizes the complexities of love games and how everyone must play their part appropriately. Lucetta should know better that Julia’s status prevents her from overtly expressing attraction and Julia should know enough to find a way around social convention to get what she wants. In the end, after some teasing and clever wordplay, Lucetta delivers the letter and expresses her approval of Proteus over Julia’s other potential suitors.

Julia is very preoccupied with her status and modesty, which is at odds with her attraction to Proteus. She is the one, after all, who asks to seal their bond physically upon his parting. After Proteus’ prolonged absence, Julia decides to take matters into her own hands and asks Lucetta: “fit me with such weeds as may beseem some well-reputed page.” She knows she has to cast off her gender in order to enter the world of men and she speaks of Proteus using language echoing Speed’s regard of Valentine as a “hot lover.” Julia, being denied Proteus, only wants him more:

O, know’st though not his looks are my soul’s food? Pity the dearth that I have pined in, By longing for that food so long a time. Didst thou but know the inly touch of love, Thou wouldst as soon go kindle fire with snow As seek to quench the fire of love with words.

Julia, to put it bluntly, is hot for Proteus, and is willing to risk her reputation in order to see him again. Desire wins out over social convention and thus she departs to Milan where she finds herself part of a complex love triangle. As part of Proteus’ convoluted plot to win over Sylvia by outwitting his two rivals, he has Thurio perform a romantic song for Sylvia and then claim the credit for himself. Julia, now donning the identity of Sebastian, watches the performance, heartbroken at the notion that Proteus is now actively pursing another woman. To add insult to injury, Proteus then enlists the help of Sebastian to deliver a letter and ring, the very ring that Julia had given Proteus back in Verona, to the hands of Sylvia. Julia, tormented by the decision to aid Proteus in getting what he wants even if it is at odds with her desires, soliloquizes in a manner echoing Proteus’ self-assessment earlier in the play. When first confronted with the decision to betray Valentine and pursue Sylvia, Proteus laments:

I cannot leave to love, and yet I do; But there I have to love where I should love. Julia I lose and Valentine I lose: If I keep them, I needs must lost myself; If I lose them, thus find I by their loss For Valentine myself, for Julia, Sylvia. I to myself am dearer than a friend, For love it still most precious in itself.

Proteus, once again, has been transformed by love to identify himself only by the love he feels. There is nothing else. He cannot be friend to Valentine and true to himself. He cannot be devoted to Julia and true to himself. Valuing his own self more than Valentine or Julia, he chooses this Proteus over previous iterations.

Julia responds differently to a similar romantically-charged identity crisis:

How many women would do such a message? Alas, poor Proteus, thou has entertained A fox to be the shepherd of thy lambs! Alas, poor fool, why do I pity him That with his heart despiseth me? Because he loves her, he despiseth me. Because I love him, I must pity him. This ring I gave him when he parted from me To bind him to remember my good will; And now am I, unhappy messenger, To plead for that which I would not obtain, To carry that which I would have refused, To praise his faith which I would have dispraised. I am my master’s true-confirmed love, But cannot be true servant to my master Unless I prove false traitor to myself. Yet I will woo for him, yet so coldly As, heaven it knows, I would not have him speed.

In this passage, rich with imagery, Julia grapples with which persona to embrace. She is simultaneously all of these things, a fox, an unhappy messenger, a servant, and none of these things as she has layered disguise upon disguise in her pursuit of Proteus. Underneath the page’s clothing, she is a young woman in love with a man and in order to fulfill her duty as servant to her unwitting master, she must betray her true self. In the end, both she and Proteus choose to honor the power of love, but in different ways. Proteus does so by honoring the love that will please himself and Julia honors to love that will please the one she loves.

Luckily for Julia, Sylvia remains steadfastly devoted to Valentine. Sylvia’s behavior towards her beloved, while perhaps slightly more restrained than Julia’s, bears certain similarities. Julia has Lucetta serving as go-between, but Sylvia relies on her own crafty device to express her interest in Valentine. Rather than tell him directly, which would be unseemly for a woman of her station, she enlists Valentine as servant to write letters in her name for a supposed lover. Valentine, as Julia later does for Proteus, agrees to aid the one he loves and composes letters and delivers them to Sylvia for her to distribute. Sylvia then hands the letters back to an extremely befuddled Valentine.

VALENTINE: Madam, they are for you. SYLVIA: Ay, ay, you writ them, sir, at my request; But I will none of them; they are for you; I would have had them writ more movingly.

It takes Valentine the witty explanation of Speed to understand Sylvia’s meaning. I want to write you romantic letters, get it? Eventually, of course Valentine does get it and the pair of lovers finds themselves on the happy path towards a union, but for the Duke’s disapproval and Proteus’ meddling.

Love in the Space Between When Valentine is banished by the Duke, Sylvia takes a familiar proactive course of action by following him into the wilderness. While Julia literally changes herself into a male form to protect her virtue, Sylvia shields herself by enlisting the honorable Sir Eglamour to guide her to Mantua. This begins a series of “chases” of one lover in pursuit of another, in a way prefiguring the chaotic and comic quartet that ventures into the woods outside of Athens in Midsummer. Sylvia pursues Valentine for love. The Duke pursues Sylvia in a rage. Thurio pursues Sylvia for the sake of proving his honor. Proteus then pursues to win Sylvia for love. Finally, Julia chases after Proteus chasing after Sylvia.

Once all the characters enter the green space, outside the strictures of city society, all hell breaks loose and subversions are allowed to play out. The Duke is captured by a ragtag group of banished men, Proteus “rescues” Sylvia from the same bandits only to attempt to “love [her] ‘gainst the nature of love,” and Julia is finally free to reveal her true identity, honor be damned. Only once every “rule” is essentially broken, are things allowed to be repaired to a “happy close.” Valentine admonishes Proteus for his betrayal of friendship and Julia, in her final courageous act holds Proteus accountable for what he put her through:

O Proteus, let this habit make thee blush! Be thou ashamed that I have took upon me Such an immodest rainment, it shame live In a disguise of love: It is the lesser blot, modesty finds, Women to change their shapes than men their minds.

Proteus, thoroughly shamed, begs forgiveness all around. And, of course, it is granted. In addition, the bandits are forgiven by the Duke and allowed to return to civilized life, Thurio gives up his claim to Sylvia, the Duke recognizes Valentine’s worthiness and approves the match to his daughter, and Proteus and Julia are reconciled. In this scene of “mutual happiness,” the one much-maligned seemingly strange point is Valentine’s initial forgiveness of Proteus where he essentially “gives” Sylvia away to his friend. Granted, it is weirdly misogynistic and difficult to rationalize in a modern world. But, considered within the context of the green space, it may make more sense as a first attempt to “right” the subverted world. Proteus has upended their friendship, Valentine calls him out, Proteus begs for forgiveness, and joyously because of his own love for Proteus, Valentine acts as Julia does - putting the desires of the person he loves most (in this case, Proteus) before his own desires.

This arrangement, is of course, very short-lived as it serves as catalyst for Julia’s reveal and Proteus’ final realization: “What is in Sylvia’s face, but I may spy more fresh in Julia’s with a constant eye?” Proteus has, chameleon-like, altered himself repeatedly in this play, and not yet found happiness. In observing the devotion and love Sylvia, Julia, and Valentine perform for him (even Sylvia warns him multiple times to rediscover his “first best love” in Julia Proteus) realizes that perhaps he would do best to be a devoted lover.

While by no means a perfect play and certainly not progressive in terms of gender roles, Two Gents is rich with humor and complex characterizations. In essence, this is an exploration of a common Shakespearean theme he revisits countless times: the tension between the devotion of women and the inconstancy of men in matters of the heart. In the end, the clever and passionate women succeed where the men fail by temporarily upending convention in order to become active wooers. The men learn from this experience and the “natural” order restored.

Two Gents is not without its charms and while some transitions and motivations may have been improved by the addition of a couple lines of dialogue, it does overall contain the essential elements for a crowd-pleasing romantic comedy: misunderstandings, conflict, music, chase scenes, and ultimately happiness for all involved.

[hairterminator]

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Picking Out The Best Belt

#http://blog.hair-terminator.com How To Choose The Perfect Belt For Any Outfit May 25, 2017 Share Tweet Belts have been documented as far back in history as the bronze age when crude materials were used to hoist cloth together, but it wasn’t until more recently, in the 1920’s that the

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How To Choose The Perfect Belt For Any Outfit

May 25, 2017

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Belts have been documented as far back in history as the bronze age when crude materials were used to hoist cloth together, but it wasn’t until more recently, in the 1920’s that the belt really took off as we know it today. During this time, many Eastern European soldiers wore belts tightly around their waist, on the outside of their uniform (mainly for aesthetic reasons, but also to provide stability).

The belt itself has largely remained unchanged, with leather being the preferred fabric, and a long, tapered material being the usual shape. These belts replaced suspenders and offered men a more causal and easy way to adjust their pants. As such, we saw the introduction of the modern belt buckle, which tends to feature a timeless metal buckle or a cowboy or Patriotic buckle, with eagles or flags.

Despite the simple mechanics of a belt, we see this utilitarian tool used in all manner of ways; from the police officer’s duty belt to Batman’s utility belt, it seems there is a belt for every occasion. The trouble is, many guys go through life with only one or two belts – a black one and a brown one. Not only is this incredibly dull, but it ignores how much belts have to offer the dapper man.

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What belt you wear can say a lot about who you are and what you do, and is within eye range when you are approaching someone. Pick the wrong belt, and you could look completely out of place. Choose the best belt, and you could find yourself on the receiving end of a compliment. Not to mention, the right belt will also save you embarrassment from any disastrous pants-down scenarios.

So, for this crucial reason, I’m going to show you how to pass the litmus test of men’s fashion: how you can choose the best belt for any scenario with confidence!

How Do You Wear A Belt?

When it comes to picking the right belt, I want to throw in a disclaimer right off the bat; there is no one perfect belt. Every man has different needs, and depending on the event and outfit, you are going to need several belts in your repertoire to meet the grade. Just as you have different shoes for sporting and formal occasions, belts offer different styles and use.

For example, a woven linen belt is an amazing accessory in springtime when the nautical look is in full swing. A causal woven leather belt looks great with jeans and boots but would be too bulky for use in the boardroom. And a high-fashion belt buckle might be just what you need to get the attention of a room at a party or red-carpet event but is less appropriate for a sporting game.  

I always recommend looking at your existing closet and determining what clothes you regularly wear, to get a feel for what belt might suit your taste. If you wear suits to work or go to a lot of events, it’s easy to see why you would select a more refined, and real leather belt. But if you are a more active man, you may be asking yourself what options are out there for you.

It turns out; there are belts for every man and every conceivable option. So, long as you have a desire to wear a belt, I know you will be able to find one that complements your physique and outfit. If you don’t wear a belt very often, or you wear the wrong size, you might be surprised to learn that a belt can offer more than a way to hold up your pants.

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The right belt will complete your outfit, acting as a subtle yet attractive accessory. Yes, it will hold your pants in place, but it will also make your waist appear more slender, and provide you will a comfortable and supported middle section. This is extremely important for portly fellows, of which, I will be talking to you fellas in a few moments – no man is too big to rock a belt, I promise!

The Sizing & Fit

The first step in choosing your belt is first to figure out how long should the belt be. Just as shoes have sizes, so do belts. For most store-bought belts, you’ll find these are offered in the same size as pants, although you will want to go up two or three sizes for the correct fit. When trying on a belt, always place the belt over your pants, and allow a few inches of the belt to loop through the first hole.

Here’s how a belt should fit: you want to be able to comfortably wrap the belt around your largest mid-section, and loop it into the first toggle without pulling harshly or breathing in. You should aim for two or three inches run of the belt, but watch out for belts that are too long (these shoot off from the hip and do not sit right).

If you don’t have enough fabric to do this, you will need to go up another size or two. Remember, no one has any idea what belt size you wear, so leave your ego at the door, and choose a belt that has the right fit. If you are still unsure or prefer the careful eye of a tailor, you can be measured professionally and have a belt sized exactly to your needs.

Here’s How to Determine Your Size

First, look at the pant size of your most comfortable pants

Add two or three inches to this size to get your baseline size

Try on belts within this size range, and allow for another two or three inches for space

Make sure you can wrap the belt around you and secure it comfortably

Adjust as needed until you get a belt that allows you to buckle up while breathing

Or, you can use this handy chart to see where to start:

I cannot stress the importance of trying on belts. You want to get a feel for the belt, and to make sure both the fit and style complement your needs. Belt buckles are another important consideration, and until you try the belt on, you may not know if the belt buckle sits comfortably, or digs into you. Watch out for buckles that pinch at the lip of your pants; this is a sign the belt is too large.

Frequently Asked Questions

I’m often asked, “Are belt sizes in inches?” To which the answer is yes, usually. When you go to a tailor he will take your measurements and add an extra two or three inches to create the prefect length for you; in most cases, the sizing adjustment I offered in store, along with trying on a belt, is more than a good head start in finding your next belt.

Another common question I’m asked is what hole should your belt be on, and this again can vary from man-to-man, and occasion-to-occasion. I find the second hole is comfortable, but the only hard and fast rule here, gents, is not to cut your own hole. The first hole is also acceptable, but I find the third hole is starting to verge into messy territory. By the third hole, you aren’t creating a nice, tight silhouette.

After checking out tons of fashion magazines, I can confidently say it varies, but one common trend is to thread counter-clockwise so that the non-buckled end of the belt is facing left. You want to ensure that you have two or three inches of the belt to loop. More, and you will loop sloppy, and less, and you could add the appearance of a bulge (even if you don’t otherwise have one) to your mid-section.

A word of caution to our left-handed belt wearers; make the distinction. It turns out that belts that are fashioned in the opposing direction, so the belt faces right, is how women are expected to dress. The belt buckle will often still be correct, even with this adjustment (as it will now be sitting inverted), but please do check you aren’t walking around with an upside-down buckle on show.

For larger fellows, you may be wondering what size is a large belt? Typically, men’s sizes run from an XS (28-30 inches) through XL (36-38) in most department stores, but thankfully, more outlets are increasing the size of their belts to accommodate the more realistic size of American men. You can now find brand name belts anywhere into the 50 and 60-inch region and beyond at specialty stores.

The Materials And Belt Styles

Talking about ratchet belts made me realize there are many different types of belts men can wear, and you might be surprised at just how many styles and materials are out there. From braided, to reversible, and straight up fashion belts, there’s definitely something for everyone. This is an exciting time to pick out a style you enjoy, in fabric that compliments your taste and function.

Leather belts are by far the most common material offered and are available in synthetic, bonded, full grain, and genuine leathers. But also popular are non-leather options, such as woven, canvas, polyester, and braided fabric belts (although these tend to have less longevity than a genuine leather belt). I’ll be talking you through how to pick a genuine leather belt in one moment.

But first, for active men, or men between dress sizes, I highly recommend adjustable belts, which offer lots of wiggle room. I used to think that ratchet belts were something only older men wore until I tried one on out of sheer curiosity and was pleasantly surprised; ratchet belts are super comfortable and can be adjusted without the need for holes. Think of them like sneakers, and you won’t go wrong.

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Generally speaking, the best size for each type of wear depends largely on what feels right; you could be one size in one brand, and a different size in another. You could also wear a different size with your suit or jeans. Don’t be scared to try on different styles of belts too. Different belts can make you look slender around the middle, and shave inches off your waistline.

Picking A Genuine Leather Belt

There’s a reason leather belts are so popular; they last. Unlike other fabrics that wear away with daily use, leather stands up to a beating and can last decades with nothing more than a touch of polish here and there. The main question you ought to be asking is simple: is genuine leather real leather. In a pop quiz, most guys get this one wrong. Here’s why.  

Genuine leather is a lot like fool’s gold and doesn’t actually mean the leather is real, or that it will last as long as a high-quality and real leather belt. Genuine leather is simply the lowest grade that a product can be sold as leather with; these tend to have a lesser quality appearance and will always be the lowest priced of all leather belts.

Top-grain leather is the mid-range option and is a great choice for most men. Top-grain leather has a much more attractive and quality look than genuine leather, without the price tag of real leather. Full-grain leather takes the entire grain of hide, with all the imperfections and inherent toughness of the material.

And real leather, as noted, is the highest quality leather you can buy. This is the one you will covet the most because it acts, smells, and lasts like leather ought to. Expect to pay top retail dollar for this kind of leather, but for that investment, you will get a lifetime of wear. Real leather is often handcrafted and will stand up to the weather, and daily use, without flinching.

What is a blended leather, and why should I avoid it? Blended leather (bonded leather), as these are scraps of leather pieced together. Patent leather is another one to avoid and is easily recognizable by its shiny, glossy finish. And finally, corrected grain leather, which is a method of faking higher-quality leather by imprinting a leather grain into sub-par leather.

Some also ask, “What is Western leather?” These feature cowhide leather and may be branded with cowboy emblems, to give an authentic Western appearance. You might see these worn in the South or at a rodeo than at your local grocery store. Or, “what is a ranger belt?” Again, this is a specialty belt that originates in Texas and is worn by Texas Rangers in their uniform.

What Do You Match Your Belt With?

Now that you have your belt picked out, and have the correct style, fit, and design for your needs, it’s time to figure out the final piece of the puzzle: what do you match your belt with? I’ve heard say your shoes and wallets should match your belts or that you can wear black and brown leathers together, but I wanted to get a definitive answer.

And, in true fashion, there is no one-size-fits-all, but there is what works for me. For dark leather, I stick to black leather belts. As jeans get progressively lighter, you can start adding in tan or brown leather for a more relaxed and casual look. Black belts tend to look more formal, and with dark jeans, turn a look from day to night seamlessly.

If you are wondering if you can wear a brown belt with black shoes, I have great news. Yes, you can, but there is one little caveat – you want the brown and black to be as close in tone as possible. By pairing a dark brown and black leather belt with shoes, you will create a more pulled-together look. A light brown and black leather will clash, and distract from your overall aesthetic.

Similarly, if you are wondering, do your shoes have to match your belt, the answer is no. Being strict with style rules means you lose personality. The trick here is to choose shoes and belts that have a complimentary theme. So, for example, it’s easy to pair a western belt with Western boots, but you can make this look more wearable by paring Western boots with a real leather belt for a more chic look.

And finally, for those of you who are wondering what color belt to wear with khaki pants or chinos, it’s best to stick with tan leather belts. In these cases, a black belt sticks out like a sore thumb. Again, the complimentary rule is at play; you can layer up similar leathers, colors, and fabrics throughout an outfit to create an interesting juxtaposition that is less store-bought and more stylish.

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What A Guy Needs To Own

So, as you may have noticed, no one bel tis sufficient for most men. What I like to do is cover the bases with a few solid choices that can be mixed and matched with what I like to wear. As I wear a lot of suits, I tend to stick with tan and black leather belts that can also be worn with light and dark denim jeans. If you are a casual dresser, consider woven belts and other fabrics that impart personality.

As a rule, leather is King, and I always recommend that you have at least one real leather belt for those important events, like interviews, weddings, and for pairing with suits. Designer belts, such as Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Fendi, and Versace, are reliable sources for real leather. This is one of the few purchasing decisions I make where brands influence me strongly; you don’t want to waste money on fake leather.

If you want to streamline your closet, I’ll leave you on this bombshell – many belt buckles can be taken off and switched out for a different buckle. Similarly, no one says your belt must be new. You can get really unique and interesting vintage belts, or custom made belts from thrift shops and tailors. My go to brands when starting a new collection are Beltology and Trafalgar.

Finally; what is a good price for a belt? I’m going to leave this one wide open and with good reason. It all depends on the quality of the leather, how often you use the belt, and what you expect in quality. I’ve been as happy with a $20 belt as I have with a $200 belt. But do remember, an expensive belt can make a lesser outfit look phenomenal. A great outfit can’t be polished with a cheap looking belt.

We Recommend...

Everyday Belts

These are the belts that you don"t have to think twice about. You can roll out of bed, slip into some decent threads and pull it all together with a versatile, sturdy and style-steady strap of leather. Meant to get you through the everyday, you can get away with just one of these if it"s a mute tan — easy to pair with any shoe & any overall look.

Generally, casual belts are fairly wide and are crafted from a supple calfskin, which tends get more comfortable over time since it shapes to your body. Not to mention, the best everyday belts also get better looking the longer you wear it, showcasing your little victories over the daily grind. Here are some of our favorites.  

Tanner Goods Classic Belt: $99.98 at Huckberry.com

Shinola Leather Belt: $150.00 at Nordstrom.com

Stachel & Page Mahogany Belt: $64.98 at Huckberry.com

Dress Belts

Designated for weddings, office meetings, formal dinners or anytime you want to make a serious impression. Dress belts, as previously mentioned, are typically less than an inch wide and usually vary between black, brown and tan colors. Another common (and suggested) element to look for is quality leather — that"s what"s going to turn your aging belt into a thing of beauty instead of a thing to replace. That all said, doesn"t mean you can"t have fun or display some personality when choosing your belt — here are the options that will cover your bases, without having you look like a grandpa.  

Allen Edmonds Manistree Brogue Belt: $120.00 at Nordstrom.com

Trafalgar Easton Calfskin Belt: $75.00 at Nordstrom.com

Mezlan Genuine Snakeskin Belt: $275.00 at Nordstrom.com

Ted Baker London Reversible Leather Belt: $75.00 at Nordstrom.com

Miscellaneous Belts

These aren"t your typical options, but there"s certainly room for them in more developed belt collections. Ranging from more seasonally appropriate (think boating) to athletic or even "tactical" in style, here are a few cool numbers that belong in a category of their own.

Tommy Bahama Tidal Wave Belt: $78.00 at Amazon.com

Elite Survival Systems Cobra Belt: $82.68 at Amazon.com

You are what you wear; this is never more true than on the first meeting when we are subject to scruitiny and laws of attraction. Don’t fail the litmus test of men’s fashion; learn how to choose the best belt for any outfit in five simple steps. Victor Macias, the founder of Male Standard, believes that everyman can look and feel like the best version of himself by paying attention to the details. For hands-on grooming tips, tricks, and more style suggestions, please visit MaleStandard.com.

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