#Glenquoich

[paulwhitewriter]

The title of this post is the response I usually get when I say I went to Kinloch Hourn.

Where..?

Exactly.

To be honest, I would like it to stay that way, along with a few other places which we, (my wife and I) have adopted as ‘ours’.

You see, too many tourists visiting these ‘special’ places spoil them; even the very best, most conscientious, environmentally aware and careful of us.

It is one of the cruel ironies of life.

So, I hear you ask again, where is Kinloch Hourn?

According to Wikipedia…

Kinloch Hourn is a small settlement at the end of Loch Hourn, in the West Highlands of Scotland. The name comes from the Gaelic, Ceann Loch Shubhairne, for “the head of Loch Hourn”.

While this may be factually correct, it is a cold and bland description which does nothing to attract the traveller and does not reveal its location.

Undiscovered Scotland phrases it a little better. I quote…

In his wonderful book ‘A Dance Called America’, James Hunter says: “There are few more scenically spectacular journeys to be made in Britain than the one that takes you from the Great Glen through Glen Garry to the edge of the Atlantic.

In this, as in much else, he is right.

Yet it is a journey made in its entirety by very few people: for nowadays it is a journey through a largely uninhabited landscape to an even more deserted destination visited only for the joy of being there.’

It is to share that, ‘Joy of being there’, why I write this post.

First, let me tell you about the route you must take. I say ‘must’ because there is just the one road, a single-track route which runs for 22 miles by mountains with such enchanting names as Leac nan Gaidhseich, Sròn Lice na Fearna, Sgurr a Chlaidheimh and Buidhe Bheinn.

I started this trip at Invergarry, a small town with a namesake castle on the banks of Loch Oich, from where we took the A87 westwards as if we were starting out for the Kyle of Lochalsh and the Isle of Skye.

However, as the A87 climbs north away from Loch Garry, there is a small road sign at a junction which points to Tomdoun. This is the start of 22 miles of spectacular single-track road heading more or less westward, following the north shore of Loch Garry before passing the tiny hamlet of Tomdoun, complete with its Sporting Lodge and the beautiful little Tomdoun Church.

As with many places in Scotland, I found this road has several ‘sculptures’ along the roadside. I must say, I have taken to these oddities and now keep a keen eye out for them photographing them whenever possible.

This is one of a salmon.

We were not far past this village, heading to Coille Mhorgil, when we encountered some deer wandering from the gates of one of the few houses along the route.

The deer were in no hurry at all. Our presence did not unduly disturb their meandering across a small meadow and into the cover of the trees. At first, I was a little reluctant to get out of the car, but as I wanted to try and capture a photograph I slowly opened the door, walked to the edge of the road and started to snap away. Besides a casual glance towards me, the deer carried on as if I was not there.

copyright images

copyright images

copyright images

copyright images

Then this small unnamed road climbs to the imposing Glen Quoich dam. It is a large structure, 1050ft long and 105ft high. The dam was built in 1957, as part of a series of major hydro-electric schemes in the Highlands. The waters of Loch Quoich were raised by some 100 feet or so, increasing the floodplain of the Loch from three to seven square miles.

The raised waters submerged the grand house, Glenquoich Lodge, where the likes of Edwin Landseer and King Edward VII stayed when on stalking trips. This is why, once passed the dam, the road winds onwards weaving its way through a mass of naturalised rhododendron plants on the north shore. These plants once formed part of the gardens of the house and led to the excellent stalkers’ paths that climb the mountains of Gleouraich and Spidean Mialach to the north. 

Glenquoich Lodge

floor plan

All you can see of the lodge today

How Glenquoich Lodge looked

Once passed the rhododendrons and over the bridge, the journey becomes a little more adventurous. The road here displays its lack of use by the strip of moss that runs along its centre. There are extreme gradients, sharp bends and intrusive stone walls and rocks. It is an interesting ride well worth the reward of many amazing scenic vistas.

Eventually, you will arrive at a small farmhouse and car park. This is Lochhournhead tea rooms and B&B, run by Harriet & John Gordon. 

However, this does not have to be the end of your journey.

The attraction of Kinloch Hourn is not only its spectacular beauty, but it also lies in the

The footpath from Kinloch Hourn

old footpath which runs along the southern shores after the road stops. This track can only be negotiated on foot and runs for a further seven miles to the beautiful Barrisdale Bay. 

This has long been seen as one of the two main gateways to Scotland’s most remote and challenging mainland region, Knoydart. For those who venture this far, Kinloch Hourn is often not the end of the journey, it is simply the beginning of the next. 

For ourselves, we saw more deer, particularly a young wild stag, who we helped to scrump a few apples he could not reach alone from the farm’s orchard. I suspect this deer has learnt of the generosity of visitors to Loch Hourn and plays the tourist for some extra food and who can blame him? This is still a wild deer; they can be a bit unpredictable, so should you have the fortune to encounter one, even this one, be cautious.

However, on this occasion my wife and I had another destination we needed to reach by evening, so we re-run the 22 miles back to Invergarry… and beyond but that’s to be told in another story.

At some time, I would like to return and make the 7-mile Lochside walk from Kinloch Hourn to Barrisdale Bay.

One of the many wonderful views on the way to Kinloch Hourn

To finish this post; If you like to drive slowly, stop frequently take photographs, brew up a pot of tea at the roadside, love the Scottish landscape and wildlife, then this is a most worthwhile adventure and one I highly recommend.

Even more highly recommended than that.

Keep Happy, Paul.

Please take some time to browse my website.

I am an author, so you may find the book you ‘really’ need to take on your next trip. At least I hope you do.

I am also a photographer, you can browse some of the images from my travels.

Lastly, I am a digital artist. I mainly focus on portraiture and social pictorial comment. Feel free to contact me with your views and insights.

                      Where? I’ve never heard of it. The title of this post is the response I usually get when I say I went to Kinloch Hourn.

[suffrageinstitchesnz]

Makers’ names: Chonelle Evans, Zara Glover, Mya McKee, Annabel Innes, Brie Shaw

Petition sheet number: 44 

Person honouring: Jane Price 

Relationship to maker: Great-great-grandmother

Jane McDonald was born in Edinburgh, Scotland, in June 1843.

She emigrated with her widowed father and seven siblings on board the Arima in June 1864 and arrived at Bluff in September. They made their way to Riverton and lived with Jane’s eldest brother who had emigrated earlier. 

Jane became a domestic servant at the Glenquoich Homestead in Athol.

She married Morgan Price, who became a successful farmer and businessman, in December 1867. They had eight children: Hellen (1868), Morgan (1871), Jane (1873), James (1875), Victoria (1877), Thomas (1879), John (1882), and Lilly (1884). 

Jane organised the house and the children’s education and assisted in writing letters and signing cheques for her husband, who initially had limited literacy skills. Their home was always open to wayfarers with many of the early pioneers popping in.

She signed the 1893 petition on a sheet filled with signatures from Athol and Lumsden.

Jane died of cancer in 1909 and was buried at the Athol cemetery. The service was conducted around the open grave, ending with her favourite hymn – Abide With Me. At the time she had 26 grandchildren.

It is said that Morgan always ate alone after Jane died. He was buried in the same gravesite in 1922.

The Prices were one of the early families in the district – possibly related to a family residing in the area now, although we weren't able to confirm this.

Panel materials: Sheeting, scrap fabric, beads, embroidery thread, paint, metal thread – from supervisor’s personal supplies. 

Unique ID number: VRS.2019.483