#GlacierGuides

[bike42]

Friday, July 7, 2023

Last day of hiking.  We wanted to get an early start, and although I’d set an alarm for 5:30am, JT and I were awake at 5:15am.  We put on our shoes, grabbed the bear spray and TP and headed for the stinky latrine.  I detoured to the lake to snap a photo of the sunrise. Each morning the lake and mountains have looked spectacular, but this morning was particularly amazing.

Granola for breakfast again and we were on the trail by 7:30am.  We had about a 10-mile day and lunch would be waiting for us in the van (cooler dropped off by a fellow hiking guide).

Skies were clear, but there was a haze likely caused by wildfires in Canada - first day we’ve seen that, but there was an abrupt change in the wind yesterday.

Most of today’s route was new to us as we walked along the other side of the Mowkonas River.  We stopped at Gros Ventre Falls and Todd stayed with the packs as we went down to have a look.

The trail opened up and we got a glimpse of a large meadow with the Belly River Ranger Station on the edge of it.  Eventually, we got down to the station and took a break.  No one was around, but we walked the grounds and examined the construction projects.  Work crews are rebuilding the porch in front of the building, and replacing several massive logs on the side of the building.  It appears they must be required to restore the building using original rustic techniques?!  There were no power tools in sight, and the logs appeared to be hand hewn and the notch was being chiseled out by hand as well!  It’d be fun to hang around another week and help work on the projects!

We continued our hike along the Belly River, mostly separated by a swath of willows so we heard it more than saw it!  We traversed many open meadows and the wildflowers were out of this world!!

We took our last “pack off” break at Three Mile Creek where Lynn and I took our boots off and soaked our feet – very refreshing!!  Just three miles to go, with the last 1.5 miles steep switchbacks up to Chief Mountain trailhead.

We came upon another mule train heading down the trail – a woman wrangler towing three mules.  We stepped off the trail, but it still made the mules a little skittish.  She told us the middle one is blind – imagine that!! We also encountered many hikers heading in and didn’t take the time to chat with each of them – just a “good morning” greeting mostly.  It was fun for me to imagine which were CDT thru hikers, and which were just in for a few days like us.

When we got to the climb, Todd said we could do our own thing as long as we continued to be “bear aware.”  I pretended I was on a Peloton Power Ride and just put my head down and climbed.  I could see Kent, Lynn and Tam in the lead and I was close to Dan.   JT walked in the back with Todd.  After a mile, I couldn’t see / hear Jeff and Todd so I waited for them. Once they were closer, I could see Jeff was happily telling stories, and Todd was an active listener.  I told them I was going to hammer out the last mile, so I powered ahead, with the other 4 ahead but out of view now.  I realized I was alone in the middle of our group without bear spray, so I freaked out a bit and yelled “hey bear” at every corner.  Eventually I could see Tam and Dan ahead and I relaxed a bit.  I thought about my upcoming 29029 challenge.  I feel strong, but I have to get serious about training these next four weeks!!  29000+ feet of elevation gain is no joke.   I just worked hard for an hour and that was just over 1000 feet of gain (I’ll do that 28 more times within a 36 hour timeframe – is that possible??).

Lunch was a fabulous spread, sandwiches, fresh veggies and real plates and silverware.  A storm had been threatening the last hour, so we ate fast with drops starting to fall on us!  We left about 1:30p for our 3+ hour drive back to the outfitter.  Feeling that melancholy of sad that the adventure is over but can’t wait to take a shower and put on some different clothes!

Stopped at East Glacier Cenex station again - I bought a Starbucks Frappe and JT had a dish of Huckleberry Cheesecake ice cream.  Our group was livelier after that part of the drive and we brainstormed future adventures (Mexico to visit George and Kimberly’s new place, Patagonia, West Coast Trail?).  

10.2 mile, 1347 ft gain, 5 hours

 Back to the office to unload our food bags, then into our cars for the short drive to the Glacier Lodge where we checked in again for the night. Everyone took long showers and we met Todd at the restaurant for a celebratory dinner.  

[bahazaar]

#thefrenchsidemakesitlookfancier #glacierwalk #glacierblue #glacierwater #glacierpoint #glaciers #glaciergrey #glaciercherry #glacierexpress #glacierbodies #glacierguides #glacierglaze 📈🎴📉 (at Canadian Shield 4X4 Outfitters)

[socialsophie]

Great day shooting #360video project with #FranzJosef #GlacierGuides today. Amazing place up on the #ice #glacier and really cool team to work with. #NgaiTahu #tourism #nz #newzealand #purenewzealand #VirtualEye #westcoast (at Franz Josef Glacier)

[alexwu5]

Glacier Walk.. #glacier #glacierwalk #skaftafell #iceland #travel #roadtrip #glacierguides #glacierguidesiceland （在 Skaftafell, Austur-Skaftafellssysla, Iceland）

[miguelsalespereira]

#vatnajokull #glacier #Iceland #roadtrip #ice #glacierguides #theworldismyhome (at Vatnajokull Glacier & Jokullsarlon, Iceland)

[bike42]

Tuesday July 4, 2023

Happy Fourth of July!  I’m delighted, for the 3rd time in my life, to be in a National Park on July 4th (2012 Glacier, 2014 Yellowstone, 2023 Glacier)!  For me, being immersed in a National Treasure like this is better than fireworks!

We had heavy rain last night after we’d returned to the tent, and awoke to an overcast moist morning.  Breakfast was a warm dish of rice with sugar, cinnamon and probably canned apples - it was warm and someone else planned and prepared it!

Apparently, the campsite Todd and the Rawhousers’ ended up with had a river run through it and they were drenched overnight.  Due to that, we had a later start (10:30a).  Jeff and I shook out our tent the best we could, but it felt 5 pounds heavier today!  We hung out at the food prep site and chatted with other hikers while we waited for the others to get packed up.

The weather cleared up, but forecast said storms after 3:30p so that kept us moving along today.  We followed the Belly River, stopping at a beautiful waterfall (Dawn Mist).  We took several “pack off” breaks including time for delayering.  My feet were just a bit damp when we started (same socks as yesterday) but they didn’t feel bad or cause any trouble.  I actually felt great all day and hiked close to Todd who is a nonstop wealth of information - plants, animals, park history, etc.  We sure hit the jackpot again with our guide!

We forded Mokawanis River, most of us walking barefoot using poles to steady ourselves.  The water was refreshingly cold, the bottom was flat pebbles, and the current was strong.  We ate a lunch of peanut butter on pita with dried bananas and enjoying the river, flowing out of Copsey Lake (named for the first Ranger at Glacier).  He named these other lakes as well:  Elizabeth, Sue, Helen and Margaret (not after daughters according to Todd).  While we were eating lunch another Glacier Guide came by with some of his group.  Apparently, some in his group struggled yesterday so he changed his permit to stay two nights to allow R&R for the group, and several of them were out just for a short day trip.  Both he and Todd had been baseball pitchers and got into a rock skipping duel, the likes of which I’d never seen!

We saw several other couples, but we’re off the CDT and Alternate CDT routes now for a couple of days.  We arrived at our camp at the foot of Glenn’s Lake (foot) a little after 3pm.  It was nice to get to camp and get everything dried out!  Also to have time to chill out. 

There is just one other couple at this camp, a really nice couple from Boulder.  They went out into the lake, which prompted Tam and I to try to take a quick dip.  The lake had a very long shallow portion, so by the time we’d walked out to the deeper water, we were already frozen!  We dipped up to our shoulders, which took all the bravery I could muster!  We walked out quickly and toweled off, feeling like pins and needles, yet very refreshing!!

We had an early dinner @ 5:30pm.  Afterwards, Jeff and I played a game of Cribbage but mosquitoes made us stop at one game (our box of cards was destroyed from being in the bottom of my pack, but Todd had a set of cards).  Tam and Dan were down at the lake in search of a moose and came back reporting beaver sighting!  We were just about to turn in, but we went to the lake with the others and we were entertained by a busy momma beaver (obvious teats) - eating willows along the shore just a little ways from us.  She seemed to know we were there, but ignored us.  After she swam away Todd walked through there and then she slapped her tail.

As we retired, the predicted rain hadn’t happened yet, just some rumblings in the distance.  I read for a bit, and at 9:30p - the storm came with gusto: thunder, lightning and heavy rain.  I put in my ear plugs, covered my eyes with my mask and snuggled into my sleeping bag (still a little chilled from my lake dip).

6.35 miles, 542 ft elevation gain, 4 hours

[bike42]

Monday July 3, 2023

Restless nights sleep - takes a bit to get used to sleeping in a small tent on an air mattress … lots of switching body position for me!  Awoke without an alarm to brighter morning light and bird song.  Jeff and I walked to the latrine, and then down the path to the lake.  Gorgeous view, mountains and a calm wilderness lake.  There was a loon swimming and looking under the water, causing the only ripples on the lake.

We dressed for the day, packed up, and had some time for yoga and stretching before 7am breakfast - granola with fresh strawberries and warmed coconut milk, coffee and hot tea.

Just before 8:30am, we were fully packed and began the hike continuing on Red Gap Pass Trail around Poia Lake and along Kennedy Creek (looked like prime moose territory but we came up empty).  We’d discussed taking more “packs off” breaks today, but yet the first two miles were painfully slow for me.  I was at the back of the line, and Todd was stopping frequently to explain something (which I couldn’t hear) or scan for sheep among the cliffs of the high mountains.  We took a pack off break at 2.5 miles, as from that point we’d have a 3.5 climb to the Red Gap Pass.  Once we got above tree line, he was ok with us walking our own pace as he could see us all.  Kent and Lynn charged up the switchbacks and reached the top about 30 minutes before the rest of us.  Jeff and I took several “packs off” sitting breaks, had a snack and took photos.  My legs felt strong, but the pressure of the pack on my hips increased my misery factor (6) however, I knew one step at a time and we’d eventually be there!  

As we were nearing the top, we were entertained by a mountain goat running across the face of the mountain.  He crossed the saddle just above us, and joined a small herd on the face of the opposite mountain (sure made it look easy!).  

When we reached the top, there was a gaggle of people - so much chatting and camaraderie!  Guide Tom from Glacier Guides was there with his 5 middle aged women guests.  Many of them first time backpackers, having an awesome time.  Also one impressive thru hiker (we'd encountered 4 already today) and one day hiker on a 20 mile excursion.  We had lunch (hummus wraps) with the whole group - the thru hikers are so delighted to get a share of different food, and about an hour later headed down the pass.

From the top, we could see Old Sun Glacier on Mount Merritt (one of six peaks in the park that exceed 10k).  Afternoon rain was in the forecast and dark clouds were beginning to form in the west.  I felt really good going down the first 2 miles.  We took a pack off break to ready our rain gear.  Since my rain jacket is so warm, I removed my fleece and top shirt and wore the jacket over a t-shirt with the air vents fully opened. I also put on my pack cover as I know storms can come fast!  We descended another mile with just occasional large rain drops, thunder rumbling in the distance, but mostly sunshine overhead.  Another pack off break and most stored their rain gear.  About that time, we came upon our first huckleberry bushes with some ripe berries - yum!  Yesterday we’d found wild strawberries - yum, but mostly are walking past yet-to-bloom thimbleberry bushes.

Two miles out, larger drops of COLD rain started to fall.  Before the others could don their jackets again, huckleberry size drops of hail were falling!  Before long, the trail was soaked and we were slogging through puddles. That increased the misery factor substantially!   We went through sections of overgrown (chest high) thimbleberry bushes.  Jeff exclaimed it was like going through a “car wash!”  Besides the wetness, it was slippery going as we couldn’t see roots, rocks or the ruts of the narrow trail.  Misery level back to 9, although my Arc’terex Gortex jacket kept my upper body dry and warm.  Icing on the cake, we had a rustic swinging bridge to cross before we reached camp.  It was slippery and swinging and tipping!  There were cables to cling to as you crossed, so I was able to make it.  Todd left Kent and Lynn to coach us across and went ahead to camp to set up a tarp over the food area (made him a hero of many hikers that weren’t a part of our group).  The benches were not completely soaked, so we huddled there until the rain let up.

The campsites were very full - maybe 20 other hikers here (huddled in their tents as we arrived).  Todd showed Jeff a spot off in the other direction and we were lucky to score a mostly dry spot under a large pine tree.  We set up the tent and got our stuff inside with minimal moisture.  

Packing mistake:  didn’t think I needed long pants or my rain pants.  Also could have used my gaiters!  After we got our tent set up, I dug my yoga pants out of my bag and took off my wet shorts and undies and was immediately better. 

Dinner was a creation Todd made with rice, corn and fajita seasoning - eaten as burritos with the largest tortillas ever seen!  Pepperidge Farm cookies for dessert.  I felt chilled and didn’t stick around to help clean up - brushed my teeth and headed for the comfort of my sleeping bag.  Rather than adding clothes as the night cooled off, I put on my kittie alpaca socks and two layers of smart wool on top and zipped all the way into my sleeping bag.  Mentally, I wasn’t in a place to write about the day so I read for a bit and nodded off to sleep.  I slept very well, and didn’t have a hot flash until 4am!!

We’re camped at the foot of Elizabeth Lake (11.2 miles, 1922 ft elevation gain, 9 hours)

[bike42]

Sunday July 2, 2023

Great nights sleep. We had shades to darken the room (still quite light at 10pm) and I used earplugs to drown out the sound of people walking on the floor above us and the numerous trains just a few blocks away.

Up at 6 for a long shower, and breakfast at 7am. Breakfast sandwiches, bananas and yogurt - perfect. Then the last minute second guessing about what we had in our packs and what we could leave behind! We’re not new to this, but there is uncertainty in what the terrain, weather and camps will be like!

We arrived at the Glacier Guides office just after 8am and met our guide, Todd (originally from Madison WI). He had 7 piles of food laid out (didn’t know Gary wasn’t coming). The food was labeled “B1, D2” etc. for breakfast or dinner and which day. Ideally, you want to volunteer to carry the first night’s dinner!

We added the food to our packs and Todd had all of the cooking gear in his pack already. We spent some time asking questions and pulling things out of our packs and running them back to the cars. Then we had to watch a few videos on “Leave No Trace,” which was nothing new for us and “Bear Safety,” which was educational but a bit on the terrifying side!

Into the Glacier Guide van (the big old ones like we used to take on camp U-Nah-Li-Ya trips) for the 2.5 mile ride to the trailhead. Todd drove the van as there is a 4-day group hiking now and they’ll depart in our van in a few days and we’ll hike up to the one they used. Clever system! We drove east on Hwy 2, which allowed JT and me to relive some of our bike trip. I was surprised we drove all the way to Browning, where we turned north, but great to see the difference between the plains and the mountains again - quite drastic!!

We arrived at the trailhead, just short of the Many Glaciers Ranger Station, and ate our sack lunches, watching families head out on day hikes to a waterfall on another trail. It was a beautiful sunny day with clear blue skies, but it felt a bit cooler and I kept my fleece on initially. Todd spotted a mountain goat on a cliff way above us - awesome! We set out hiking about 1:30pm, climbing right away and warming up fast! The wildflowers in the meadows were breathtaking. As usual, I tried to capture in my photos but they don’t do justice.

We hiked the Red Gap Pass Trail, nearly seven miles to Poia Lake for our first night’s campsite. The trail is part of the Continental Divide Trail (CDT) and of the dozen or so people we saw, nearly all were thru hikers that are just staring out - destined for Mexico! The trail also accommodates horseback riders and we saw a group of them.

There was a scale at the office and we weighed our packs before we departed. Mine was the lightest at 40 pounds even. Others were 42-45 pounds. Sure felt the extra weight today, and probably some altitude. We were all relieved to arrive at camp around 6pm (90 minutes after Todd’s estimate - guess he thought we’d be faster?).

The Glacier Park camps have a really cool design to keep bears and other critters out of the sleeping area of camp. We had to change our itinerary as Mokowanis Lake Camp is temporarily closed as a bear entered a tent there a few days ago.

When we arrived at camp, the first area was for cooking. We stopped there and took all food (dinners and snacks) out of our packs, as well as all “smellies” such as cosmetics, toothpaste, lip balm, sunscreen, etc. Walking down the path a bit, there was a trail to the vault toilet (quite nice!) then 4 campsites designed to house two tents each. We set up our tents as Todd made dinner. There are several other groups here, but they’d cleared out of the food prep area once we were eating at 7pm. By 8p, we were headed back to our tents for quiet time. A successful first day!

1732 feet elevation gain

6.93 miles

4.5 hours