#Gisela Insuaste

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Gisela Insuaste, el farro

[nyfacurrent]

Conversations | Changing the World With Your Art, While  Maintaining a Work-Life Balance

Find out how to stay focused and keep your mind, art, and heart inspired with a few tips from the IAP Interview Archives.

Below you’ll find top tips and advice for immigrant artists and creatives collected from conversations featured in IAP Newsletters across the years. Whether you’re telling your personal story, looking for a residency, or balancing a 9-to-5 job with your artistic practice, read on to learn more about the fine art of wearing multiple hats in the art world. For the full conversations, click on the interviewees' names below. 

NYFA: What advice would you give to artists who are looking to share their personal story in the hopes of inspiring large social change but who do not know where to start?

Ambika Samarthya-Howard: I think the hardest part of sharing your personal story is that when people reject it, it feels like they are rejecting you. This is true if you are a writer or a video producer, or a painter. Art is always hard because it’s a reflection of your identity in so many ways, but it’s even harder when it’s a personal story that’s already fraught with vulnerability, like stories of trauma.

My advice is to first step back and ask yourself if you want/need to tell this story. I’ve often found telling my story to be key to personal growth and very cathartic and so whether it’s accepted in a film festival or publication, I was happy to tell it. Second, do you want to put this story out there? Artists can have personal projects that they don’t share and I think it’s worth asking, especially with sensitive subject matters, if it makes sense to put this out into the world. How would a public critique or rude comment on YouTube make you feel? Lastly, connecting to community and other artists can often make this process easier and help through the journey of not only producing the work, but also the much harder process of sharing it and finding the right channels for distribution.

Martita Abril: I found it was critical to be comfortable with myself and my own style and to embrace and engage my fellow immigrant artists like the community embraced me.

Techung: Well, immigrant artists naturally face more challenges, but they should never give up on their art and instead work toward finding possibilities. There are a lot of kind people out there—organizations such as NYFA and others who will support, give feedback, and guidance—but the drive should come from the artists themselves. It takes time and energy to succeed and one must not feel shy or discouraged to ask for help. Keep your mind, heart, and art inspired.

Angélica Dass: For me, the role of an artist is to start a conversation. Because, in the end, I really believe that I can’t change the world; the only person that I can change is myself. But if we talk more about these issues that you feel are not right outside (and as an artist you are able to put these inflections in the making of art), maybe other people can decide they want to change themselves. So that is why I see the role of the artist as someone that uses something (photography, archive, images, etc.) to generate empathy and propose a discussion that can have a direct impact on our collective future. 

I always have the same advice for my students and it is: “Be honest!” It looks like something very basic, but really, be honest! You know it when you are doing something that is not right, not coherent, in a work of art. This is something that I miss in the art world, sometimes. Maybe we can be too critical and too political in a piece, but the truth is that we are just showing one side. My other advice is to give back. Give back to the community that you’re working with and try to be coherent and respectful of them.   

Sébastien Sanz de Santamaría: When artists are applying for opportunities, they should ask these four questions: What do I need to advance my creative practice? Does this opportunity (grant, residency, workshop, etc.) provide the resources and means for me to advance my practice? Do I have all the requirements necessary to apply? Have I reviewed all the details of the program entirely? I think to be successful you must select the right opportunity at the right time. After that, I think perseverance is very important. Normally, one successful experience takes you to the next one, in a process that is connected with your artwork.

Ronny Quevedo: If there is something you need help with, reach out to someone that can help you. We shouldn’t be ashamed of our unfamiliarity with something. For example, I didn’t know how to develop a budget for a very long time. Try not to hide what you think you are not good at, instead be more proactive about facing what challenges you.

NYFA: What are your tips for balancing a job with an artistic practice?

Gisela Insuaste: I think of them [my job and artistic practice] as part of my identity as a human being (and engaged in activities that are important to me), and avoid thinking of these as separate, vying for my time and energy. I see them in collaboration.

Ideally, the administrative work connects, informs, or inspires my artistic practice and vice-versa, but most importantly, aligns with my values. Actually, that’s the case for all activities, relationships, etc. in my life. I’d like to say that once your values are aligned, then everything is perfect! But that’s not the case—it’s also about time management and prioritizing the work, making adjustments, always. Sometimes, administrative work will require more time, while a creative project takes back seat. Shifting gears for a 35-mile bike ride in the hills is just as important if your body and mind need to be outdoors.

A good practice for me is to take moments to play and socialize during intense work, either in the office or studio, with friends or colleagues. If need be, set parameters with people or spaces to manage time—decide what’s important to get the work done and surround yourself with what you think you’ll need. Assess where you’re at with your projects/personal well-being. Sleep, eat well. Go outdoors for a walk and get some Vitamin D!

Marco Antonio Castro: I have been active in the New York arts community since my arrival in 2005. I co-founded and curated MoD (Monitor Digital), the first Interactive Art Festival in Guadalajara, Mexico. We brokered partnerships in the public and private sector to give new audiences an access point to explore digital art and performances. From 2007 to 2013, I guided the vision, curatorial strategies, fundraising, and assessment for the annual festival, while tapping the diverse arts community that thrives in New York. MoD’s public programs, workshops, performances, and artists expanded the festival’s reach to ultimately serve as a pipeline for international artists to connect and collaborate across borders. The festival has helped me understand the process and care needed to reach new audiences and how to make a digital exhibition as inviting as possible without lowering the quality of the content. This has helped me in my practice to make sure I know how to talk about my projects in different ways, to make them understandable by different audiences.

Catherine Yu: For an art form so bound to structure and plot, remember with relief that life works differently from art. Life often goes off-script. For those who feel daunted by the unknown, allow me to quote the great poet Rainer Maria Rilke: “The future enters into us in this way in order to transform itself in us long before it happens.”

Leeza Ahmady: One of the skills I’ve managed to develop is to keep the insight that the art world has many parts and that each part plays an important role at the forefront of my mind. I see it as an ecology, a landscape. Because of this perspective, I’ve been able to include and engage with all spectrums of the art scene: the nonprofit and for-profit museums and galleries, academic institutions, art biennials and festivals, smaller arts organizations with similar missions, community organizations, and artistic collectives as well as auction houses and art fairs. I have achieved this by being conscious of each entity’s mission and by creating and envisioning programs that appeal and address the needs of all these varying operating sectors while keeping the empowerment and promotion of artists at the very top of ACAW’s priority. It’s all about making practical, conceptual use of what resources are already there and sharing the spotlight without being invasive of any one’s territory.

- Interview Conducted by Alicia Ehni, Program Officer at NYFA Learning

This interview is part of the ConEdison Immigrant Artist Program Newsletter #120. Subscribe to this free monthly e-mail for artist’s features, opportunities, and events.

Images from Top: Angélica Dass, Yo Soy Somos, Courtesy the artist; Ronny Quevedo, no hay medio tempo: there is no halftime (detail), 2017, Queens Museum, Photo Credit: Hai Zhang

[jyslifetimes]

Yin & Young Episode 20 - Seng Chen - Artist, Cyclist, Tracer

iTunes: http://tinyurl.com/yb9bracv Website: http://tinyurl.com/ybtuezzn (link also in bio)

Dan and James have a chat with polymath Seng Chen. Seng is an artist (photographer, musician, writer), cyclist, and a tracer (practitioner of parkour aka freerunning).

James get some tips on cycling and briefly touches upon his solo ride from LA to San Diego.

Seng doesn’t listen to music while cycling because he likes to “hear myself suffer”.

Perception that minorities are not welcome to some activities like the outdoors.

Seng recently went to Cuba for a week as a cameraman for an art project.

OkCupid helped Seng meet his wife. James and Seng review “Okja” and discuss eating meat, Koreans directing white people, and exaggerated humor.

Seng’s has been involved in various aspects of filmmaking.

Music is a preferred creative outlet for Seng.

See more of his stuff at: sengchen.com/ LANGUAGE CORNER: James: Korean - 똥 (dong/ttong) - poop Mandarin - 小便 （xiao3bian4) - pee (number 1); 大便 (da4bian4) - poo (number 2) Dan: Japanese - 糞 (くそ) - kuso - crap Seng: Spanish apoderar - empower fortalecer - strengthen

–

Find @YinYoungPodcast on Facebook. Like us please! 😊

#yinyoungpodcast #podcast #gaffer #filmmaking #musician #okja #okcupid #suffering #cycling #freerunning #parkour #traceur#cuba #outdoors #photography (at Oakland, California)

Photos courtesy of Gisela Insuaste

[literaturha]

Gisela Insuaste, cruces

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Conversations | Gisela Insuaste

“Support for local artists and makers brings people together to create change.”

For Immigrant Artist Mentoring Program: Oakland consultant Gisela Insuaste, all experiences can inform her practice, from a bike ride in the hills to a leisurely walk along a lake or a plane ride across the ocean. Born and raised in New York City by Ecuadorian parents, she is an artist, arts administrator, educator, and cultural producer, who works as a Communications & Program Specialist at the Center for Cultural Innovation (CCI).

Read our interview below to learn about Insuaste’s experience moving from New York City to the East Coast five years ago, and the importance of connecting with the landscape and the people.

NYFA: Can you tell us about your experience moving from the East Coast to the West Coast?

Gisela Insuaste: Moving to the West Coast was a lot harder than I anticipated. I moved out here for love, and didn’t have anything set up for myself.

The biggest initial challenge was feeling disconnected to the landscape and as a result, to the people around me. I really didn’t know who my community was (Latinx, artists, outdoor enthusiasts, educators, etc.) or where/how I “fit” in this landscape. New York City has so many diverse art spaces and art-making practices and conversations on a range of different issues and themes, ranging from conceptual to literal to abstract modes of expression and execution using diverse media. Having lived in a large metropolitan city with a large immigrant population, with many cultural institutions, and resources/funding opportunities for artists and communities, the Bay Area is a very different place altogether. In the Bay Area, I felt that the range of art-making and expression was different—less international and more regionally-focused. Well, what I didn’t realize then and realize now, is that the local matters tremendously, and support for local artists and makers brings people together to create change.

Having a supportive and creative partner who also loves the outdoors and biking has also been a tremendous factor in this transition. He keeps it real for me. He has questioned my New York-centric mentality and has encouraged me to develop my interests out here. Moving to the West Coast and reinventing yourself is something that many people have done before me and, honestly, I didn’t want to reinvent myself—I liked who I was. This place has helped me to reflect and develop my interests, as well as prioritize what’s important to me right now, experimenting with creative practices, and leading a lifestyle that reflects my values and love of art, music, nature, and people that inspire me to be involved in my community. The landscape in which I find myself has a strong pull to dig deeper and connect with people around you but also question and challenge injustices you see.

Five years later and I feel very fortunate to be in Oakland, it has been transformative on many levels.

NYFA: You are an artist, arts administrator, educator, and cultural producer. How do you balance your administrative work with your artistic practice?

GI: I think of them as part of my identity as a human being (and engaged in activities that are important to me), and avoid thinking of these as separate, vying for my time and energy. I see them in collaboration.

Ideally, the administrative work connects, informs, or inspires my artistic practice and vice-versa, but most importantly, aligns with my values. Actually, that’s the case for all activities, relationships, etc. in my life. I’d like to say that once your values are aligned, then everything is perfect! But that’s not the case—it’s also about time management and prioritizing the work, making adjustments, always. Sometimes, administrative work will require more time, while a creative project takes back seat. Shifting gears for a 35-mile bike ride in the hills is just as important if your body and mind need to be outdoors.

To go back to your question, I would rephrase it as how do I manage my administrative work and artistic practice or work in collaboration with other parts of my life—I would say by keeping a detailed calendar and making adjustments as needed to the amount of time I spend on activities in relation to the goals/tasks I want to accomplish for that day, week, etc. and being aware of my personal well being and mental health throughout.

A good practice for me is to take moments to play and socialize during intense work, either in the office or studio, with friends or colleagues. If need be, set parameters with people or spaces to manage time—decide what’s important to get the work done and surround yourself with what you think you’ll need. Assess where you’re at with your projects/personal well-being. Sleep, eat well. Go outdoors for a walk and get some Vitamin D!

NYFA: What is your current role at the Center for Cultural Innovation (CCI)?

GI: I recently started working at CCI, a non-profit arts organization that promotes knowledge-sharing, networking, and financial independence for artists and creative entrepreneurs. CCI is based in Los Angeles with an office in San Francisco. I’m still relatively new in my role as the Communications & Program Specialist. So far, I’ve had quite an experience working with grantmaking, professional development workshops, program development, and communications, including sharing the different CCI opportunities and resources for artists. After leaving the San Francisco Arts Commission in late 2017, I took a sabbatical from arts administration to engage in my creative practice, to explore, and to connect with the Bay Area differently. When I decided to step back into arts administration, I was interested in working with an organization that supports artists and their professional development, and learning about alternative economic systems that artists, especially POC (people of color) artists.

NYFA: Do you have resources and advice to share with immigrant artists?

GI: As POC and immigrant artists, we already bring so much knowledge and experiences to a new place and community. It may take some time to adjust and find your people but know that you have a lot to offer and share.

Take advantage of all those free activities offered by arts organizations and cultural institutions such as open studios, convenings, screenings, artist lectures, etc.

Social media such as Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram are good places to find and share resources and opportunities about grants or residency opportunities, or interesting article posts about not only the arts field, but other issues and topics I find important (climate change, education, immigration, youth development, local news, etc.).

We don’t live in a vacuum, so avoid creating a bubble—find out what’s going on in other places outside your community and city, across the nation and the world, including your own country. It’s a way to keep informed and gauge the kind of conversations happening in different places. I’m fortunate to be connected not only to the East Coast but also the Mid-West and Latin America so I keep tabs on what’s going on in these areas, whether about politics or educational reforms.

But of course, interacting with people in real-time and in person is the best way to connect with others and learn a little about yourself in the process. I would recommend attending public events that you find interesting, including events in fields that may not be related to art but may intersect with your artistic practice. It’s okay to be awkward in new spaces—bring friends!

Sign up to receive newsletters from organizations, cultural institutions, libraries, city/state arts agencies, and artists/cultural workers and get the latest news, updates, events, and opportunities. Find out what’s happening on a local, regional, or national level and/or how to get involved. Examples: Art Practical, Creative Capital, Center for Cultural Innovation, Intersection for the Arts, California Arts Council, SF Arts Commission, Laundromat Project, A Blade of Grass, National Association of Latino Arts & Culture, Alliance for Artist Communities, and NYFA (of course), to name a few.

NYFA: Tell us about your upcoming commission with the NYC School Construction Authority, Public Art for Public School.

GI: The public art commission is a sculptural installation that will hang from the atrium of a new school addition at PS 254 in Sheepshead Bay, scheduled to open by August 2021. For the proposal, I was drawn to the history of the school’s neighborhood. The installation consists of a large suspended bridge-like sculpture inspired by the Ocean Avenue Bridge, a historic pedestrian footbridge that connects Sheepshead Bay to Manhattan Beach. This bridge represents a space of transition, with openness to new places and other neighborhoods. Like in my previous work, I am interested in how the landscape and built environments shape our experiences. Tentatively titled “Crossings & Bridges,” the sculpture functions like a drawing in space, a process that mirrors my walks through cities and spaces. Other suspended pieces will consist of local imagery such as native plants and architectural forms from the neighborhood. As part of the commission, I will also be leading several workshops with students that relate to my artistic process, including walking, observational drawing, and mapping.

- Interview Conducted by Alicia Ehni, Program Officer at NYFA Learning

This interview is part of the ConEdison Immigrant Artist Program Newsletter #118. Subscribe to this free monthly e-mail for artist’s features, opportunities, and events.

Images from top to bottom: Gisela Insuaste's shoes designed during a Seoul, South Korea residency, photo by Seng Chen/Gisela Insuaste; Insuaste riding her bike up a steep hill, through the redwoods near San Francisco, photo by Seng Chen; Photo project/experimentation during a sabbatical, photo by Gisela Insuaste; Photo project/experimentation during a sabbatical, photo by Gisela Insuaste.

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Gisela Insuaste, boat shore

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Gisela Insuaste, fe

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Gisela Insuaste, montanitas bailando

[nyfacurrent]

Announcing | 2019 Immigrant Artist Mentoring Program: Oakland Participants

Meet the mentees and mentors who are participating in this year’s program!

Through the support of Ford Foundation, The New York Foundation for the Arts (NYFA) is pleased to announce the participants in the 2019 NYFA Immigrant Artist Mentoring Program: Oakland, presented in collaboration with local partners World Arts West, Oakland Asian Cultural Center, Oakland Public Library, Aggregate Space Gallery, and Bisemi Foundation, Inc.

The program combines two of NYFA’s professional development programs, the Immigrant Artist Mentoring Program, through which NYFA provides access to artist mentors and arts professionals via panels and workshops, and the Artist As Entrepreneur Boot Camp Program, which provides artists with the fundamental principles of sustainability in the arts.

2019 Participants and Disciplines:

Mentee Asya Abdrahman, Multidisciplinary (Ethiopia), paired with Mentor Kristian Kabuay, Multidisciplinary/Folk & Traditional (Philippines)

Mentee Katherine Agard, Interdisciplinary (Trinidad and Tobago/Ghana), paired with Mentor Jason Wyman, Multidisciplinary (United States)

Mentee Etty D Alberto-Zamora, Visual (Honduras/Belize), paired with Mentor Kelly Ording, Visual (United States)

Mentee Byb Chanel Bibene, Multidisciplinary (Republic of Congo), paired with Mentor Melanie Wofford, Arts Administration/Performing (United States)

Mentee Kristiana Li-Yen Chan, Visual (Canada/Malaysia), paired with Mentor Alice Wu, Visual/Multidisciplinary (United States/Taiwan)

Mentee Daniel Chein, Film/New Media (Taiwan), paired with Mentor Kwesi D. Wilkerson, Performing/Literary (United States)

Mentee Paola de la Calle, Visual (Colombia), paired with Mentor PJ Policarpio, Multidisciplinary (United States)

Mentee Alisson Göthz, Visual (Brazil), paired with Mentor Jason Wyman, Visual (United States)

Mentee Patricia Leal, Interdisciplinary (Brazil), paired with Mentor Beth Waldman, Visual (United States)

Mentee Izidora Leber Lethe, Interdisciplinary (Croatia), paired with Mentor Brian Conley, Visual (United States)

Mentee Andreina Esther Maldonado Sosa, Performing (Venezuela), paired with Mentor Aimee Suzara, Performing/Literary (Philippines/United States)

Mentee Anthonia Onyejekwe, Film/Video/New Media (Nigeria), paired with Mentor Tossie Long, Performing/ Multidisciplinary (United States)

Mentee Ginika Oruche, Film/Video/New Media (Nigeria), paired with Mentor Destiny Muhammad, Performing (United States)

Mentee Reaa Puri, Film/New Media (India), paired with Mentor Shalini Agrawal, Visual/Multidisciplinary (India)

Mentee Lydia Queriani, Multidisciplinary (Philippines), paired with Mentor Ely Sonny Orquiza, Multidisciplinary/Film/Video/New Media (Philippines)

Mentee Keyvan Shovir, Multidisciplinary (Iran), paired with Mentor Megan Wilson, Interdisciplinary (United States)

Mentee Anita Sulimanovic, Visual (Croatia), paired with Mentor Taro Hattori, Visual/Film/Video/New Media (Japan)

Mentee Rupy C. Tut, Folk & Traditional Arts (India), paired with Mentor Karen Fiss, Visual/Folk & Traditional (United States)

Mentee Dor Wand, Film/Video/New Media (Israel), paired with Mentor Lyz Luke, Performing (United States)

Mentee Juniper Yun, Multidisciplinary (South Korea) paired with Mentor Mayumi Hamanaka, Visual/Multidisciplinary/Curatorial (Japan)

This program is made possible with the generous support of the Ford Foundation.

Click here for more information on the Immigrant Artist Mentoring Program. And don’t forget to sign up for the monthly Con Edison IAP Newsletter to receive opportunities and events as well as artist features directly to your inbox.

Image: 2019 Immigrant Artist Mentoring Program: Oakland, Photo Credit: Gisela Insuaste for NYFA

[nyfacurrent]

Apply Now | Immigrant Artist Mentoring Program: Oakland

Deadline to apply is Monday, December 10, 11:59 PM PST.

The New York Foundation for the Arts (NYFA) is pleased to announce the second year of the Immigrant Artist Mentoring Program: Oakland, presented in collaboration with Oakland local partners through the support of the Ford Foundation. 

The program’s goal is to foster a local community of artists sharing the immigrant experience and provide resources through entrepreneurial training, access to other artists, arts professionals, and organizations. Conducted in an inclusive, safe space, the program offers immigrant artists the opportunity to focus on their creative practice and gain support and exposure for their work while upholding their distinct cultural identities.

The program combines two of NYFA’s professional development programs: the Immigrant Artist Mentoring Program, which provides access to artist mentors and arts professionals via panels and workshops, and the Artist As Entrepreneur Boot Camp, which provides artists with the fundamental principles of sustainability in the arts. Featured topics include strategic planning, finance, law, marketing, and fundraising. Additional material will be drawn from NYFA’s newly-revised popular textbook The Profitable Artist (Allworth Press, 2018).

In collaboration with Oakland-based partners, the program will offer two weekend entrepreneurial boot camps, one-on-one mentoring, an informal gathering between weekend sessions, and an individual consultation with an arts professional.

This is a competitive program open to artists from all disciplines (Performing, Literary, Visual, Multidisciplinary, Video/Film, Folk and Traditional Arts) based in Oakland, CA, and provided free of charge to accepted participants. The program will run from January 2019 to April 2019, and will bring together Oakland artists to nurture a productive environment for collaboration.

Testimonials:

I wholeheartedly recommend the NYFA Immigrant Artist Mentoring Program to any immigrant artist! First off, the content is invaluable and taught by experts in the field. More importantly, the people are fantastic! From the program administrators to the guest speakers to the mentors to my fellow artists – I felt welcomed, supported, and valued by all. This community of artists is a network of people who truly want you to succeed. - Melissa San Miguel (Immigrant Artist Mentoring Program: Oakland ‘18)

I am so fortunate to be one of the participants in the NYFA Immigrant Artist Mentoring Program. In the first weekend of the Boot Camp Workshop, we learned about fundraising, basic marketing, goal setting, and so on. Learning the right way was a success to our organization; we were fortunate to get two grants this year. The last workshop was about finance and some legal regulations for artists. The teachers were very talented and I learned a lot from them. As an immigrant artist, I suggest this program to all. - Hamere Seble (Immigrant Artist Mentoring Program: Oakland ‘18)

Eligibility:

Live within the Oakland area (within commuting distance of Oakland)*

Either you or your parents were born outside of the United States or in United States territories including Puerto Rico, Guam, and the U.S. Virgin Islands

Refugees are welcome to apply

Are NOT currently enrolled in a graduate or undergraduate degree program**

*Priority will be given to artists living and working in Oakland; however the program is open to artists in the Bay Area within commuting distance of Oakland. **Students who will graduate before the program starts are welcome to apply.

Mandatory Sessions:

First Weekend Boot Camp Workshop: Saturday, January 26, 10:00 AM - 4:00 PM Sunday, January 27, 10:00 AM - 4:00 PM

Mid-program Check-In:  Thursday, March 14, 6:00 - 8:30 PM

Second Weekend Boot Camp Workshop: Saturday, April 27, 10:00 AM - 4:00 PM Sunday, April 28, 10:00 AM - 4:00 PM

Attendance is mandatory to all sessions, so please check your calendar before applying. Oakland-based partners will host meetings.

Application Link: Click here to apply

Deadline: Monday, December 10, 2018 11:59 PM PST

Application Guidelines:

For the application we ask you to provide:

Your long terms goals and why you are interested in applying to this program

A narrative bio of your professional career

A link to your website or online presence

Work samples

To Apply:

Applicants can apply via Submittable; first time users will need to register with Submittable to access the application portal. Electronic submissions should be completed by Monday, December 10, 2018, 11:59 PM PST

Notification: Wednesday, December 12, 2018

Questions? Contact the NYFA Learning team at learning@nyfa.org and include “Oakland” in the subject line.

Thank you to our cultural partners in Oakland:

World Arts West

Oakland Asian Cultural Center

Oakland Public Library

Aggregate Space Gallery

Bisemi Foundation, Inc

This program is made possible with the support of the Ford Foundation.

Learn more about the Immigrant Artist Mentoring Program, and don’t forget to sign up for the monthly Con Edison IAP Newsletter to receive opportunities and events as well as artist features directly to your inbox.

Image: Immigrant Artist Mentoring Program: Oakland, Photo Credit: Gisela Insuaste

[apexart-journal]

Week 1, Pt. 2@ Bangkok (Chinatown, Markets, Parks, Biking...)

Week 1

May 1-May 8

MARKET AREA (near Grand Palace) and KAO SAN ROAD

Along the Grand Palace many people were selling new and used items in stalls or on blankets on the grounds. I noticed many men selling amulets (really interesting cultural objects made of wood, stone, etc..) They tend to depict Buddha images, monks, or other forms in various positions and offer protection/good luck to the wearer. Most are encased in similarly shaped containers and worn around the neck. These ‘talisman’ can provide financial luck, healthy living, etc. I saw some leather strappy shoes that looked awesome so I made my first purchase and bought a pair after getting a good deal (a Thai woman bought the same pair and had bargained it down to a good price- I benefitted from her efforts and paid the same amount.)

I walked to the Banglamphu area to Kao San Road, a touristy traveler's scene. Every major city in the world has a place like this. It reminded me of gringolandia in Quito! It’s basically a place for tourists with budget accommodations, overpriced food, clothing and other goods that Westerners buy without any question. Most of the people I saw at that time were tanned individuals who probably had recently arrived from a beach trip - all in hippidipity clothing. Sigh, to be young.

DEMOCRACY MONUMENT AND SANAM LUANG PARK

I walked along Sanam Luang Park, and lots and lots of tourist buses were lined up along the street and around the Grand Palace. It was like a mob scene but it felt right, here in Bangkok. As usual, the sun beat against me so I was grateful once again to have an umbrella.

I made my way to Democracy monument, which marks the occasion of Thailand's 1932 switch from absolute to constitutional monarchy. It is not a very pretty monument but it does mark a historical moment. Anyway, it was interesting coming across a bike path here out of all places.

MUSEUM OF SIAM 

I got lost looking for the Museum of Siam because of the construction going on the same street. I noticed that street cleaners wear full work gear from head to toe in such hot weather. Same deal with construction workers. Both workers wear long sleeves and long pants, boots, handkerchiefs covering their faces, gloves and hats. How do they breathe, move and don’t pass out? Logan mentioned that construction also tends to happen later in the evening to avoid the heat.

The Museum of Siam is one of Bangkok’s newest museums with some fun, interesting, and interactive. As a foreigner, the admission was expensive! As someone who has worked in museums, exhibitions and programming, it was great to be in a museum that was interactive- basically we could touch anything. Unfortunately, as a result, several of the touchables weren’t working- lights, levers, electronics broken, worn surfaces, etc.  The exhibitions were informative and I left knowing a little bit more the history of Thailand and the region. 

The Kingdom of Siam is a place made of many different cultural and ethnic groups from various regions, where agriculture gave way to commerce and other industries…a diverse place, and new nationalist beliefs. Religious beliefs (Hinduism, Animism, Buddhism), and cultural traditions, economic progress are mixed together to create a dynamic society….a modern nation that continues to move forward but changing along the way, from absolute monarchy, to constitutional democracy….to whatever the future holds.

   NIGHTINGALE-OLYMPIC  DEPARTMENT STORE

I walked around and went in search of this old shop, the Nightingale-Olympic Department store. It has been around since the 1930s and used to attract wealthy patrons but over time it has lost its business to more modern and commercial shops. This place still sells the overstock products from way back. The upstairs was closed off and I couldn’t take pictures. Old shoes falling apart but the jewelry was interesting….but expensive. The only modern looking thing around was the makeup area. Check out this link. http://travel.cnn.com/bangkok/shop/photo-feature-bangkoks-department-store-time-forgot-814917

CHINATOWN AREA, LOCAL MARKETS, and WAT TRAIMIT

My first trip to Chinatown was via the Khlong San Sabe canal. I got off at the Golden Mount (Wat Saket), which was the  last stop, and walked along the same street as I did on Friday. Although I could have taken a tuk tuk or taxi, I liked to walk. And walking I did. Before heading out, I had looked up walking tours of Chinatown and pulled it up on my phone. It was a map that I found online and took me along the length of Chinatown. Every city has a Chinatown and from what I've learned, the Chinese were very important in the development of Bangkok and settled near the river, creating a community. Lots of neat markets here, day and night. I walked along Boriphat Road and then cut through Yaorowat Road and looped around to Sampeng and Phahurat Markets, basically the Chinese and Bombay Markets, respectably, where lots of merchandise, from gold to clothing to spices and stuff. Lots of venders along the way, even those selling guns and scary looking firing arms- I had to laugh at one sign that read ' not intended to be pointed at a human being.' Lots of food snacks and smells around me, signs in Chinese (distinct from Thai), and bought some sesame seed snacks and pomegranate drinks. 

Wandered around and found Wat Traimit, a temple with the largest 5.5 ton gold Buddha image in the world, Phra Sukhothai Tramit, and continued on. Walked through some old neighborhoods with wooden buildings- beautiful green places! Quite residential area, it seemed.

HOLY ROSARY CATHOLIC CHURCH and SIAM COMMERCIAL BANK

I wandered down some residential areas of Chinatown and wound up at a the Holy Rosary Catholic Church which was listed on the walking tour map. It’s a nice church located near the river and built in 1897 in the Neo-Gothic Style. The doors were open so I peeked, said a quick prayer and left. Nearby is the building of Siam Commercial Bank, the first commercial bank of Thailand run by Thais. It was built in 1904 and The place was closed but I was able to view it from outside the gate. Right near the gate, there was an old tree with colorful gauzy fabric wrapped around- reds, yellows, greens. This big, beautiful (banyan) gnarly tree was lined up with small Buddha figures, sweet drinks, and jasmine flower necklaces…basically a a shrine with offerings. These offerings honor the spirits that live in these old trees, which deserve our respect. The color strips of cloth tied around is a symbolic warning for others not to cut down the tree.

CHATUCHAK WEEKEND MARET

It’s the largest outdoor market in the world! Oh man! A maze. A daze!

A lot of people, both tourists and locals flock the market each weekend which is open from 7am till about 6pm although it seems that most people are open by 10 and stay open till after 6pm. There is an order to this madness arranged in stalls in rows that offer similar merchandise throughout the area. With a map in my hand, I explored the market for several hours. I saw plenty of people some people pulling suitcases and carrying large bags of merchandise. Although I didn’t buy anything, I checked out the products and tasted different fruits, food and drinks. For me, I couldn’t get enough water/fruit bars or fruit in my body. I stopped in the center near the tower and figured out how to get out again. By midday most people were tucked away indoors away from the exposed…without the sun beating down on you, it was many degrees color but the air was so still…

My market day ended with an hour-long foot massage. I deserved it. I happened to walk by an enclosed area inside the market and when I looked in and saw people passed out on comfy chairs, I knew it was time for one. Before I left close to closing time, there were still plenty of people around. When I was in that area another night, I noticed makeshift karaoke and bars are set up after closing hours filled with a younger group, having a good time singing and drinking.

  FLOWER MARKET/PAT KHLONG TALAT

This day was great! I went to the flower market by 9am but it was already late to witness the fresh flowers piled up row by row inside/outside. The ideal time to be athe market is early morning, at 3 or 2 AM. Despite my late arrival, I still saw plenty of vendors selling flowers, vegetables and fruits. There were also many empty stalls, too. I was drawn to boxes and objects that were stacked one on top of the other, like the fruit cases and fruits/plants. It’s hard not to notice the natural symmetry, color and pattern design that exists in this market and others, mostly unintentional and random. Vendors were also selling vegetables and fruits nearby and around the closed flower market area.

KLONG TOIE MARKET

Klong Toei Market is a wholesale wet market and of the city's largest where apparently a lot of the produce here is used for our meals. Fruits, vegetables, meat, fish, and all sort of foodstuff that I don’t recognize are sold here. Don’t wear open toe sandals! I accidently stepped on puddles of….stuff. A highlight of the day was watching two men unloading chunks of ice and rolling them down a platform to an icebox. From there, ices was chipped to smaller pieces and placed in bags to be sent out to food stalls all over.

MASSAGES

Massage shops are found everywhere- Thais really like their massages and so do I! I got my first one at the massage training school at Wat Pho. It was a 30 minute session and was awesome. I was given cold tea afterwards, which was nice. I got my second massage after my all day excursion at Chatuchak Market. The foot massage included a head and shoulder massage after a long day at the weekend market. I really needed it. . All you do is relax in an air-conditioned room and let go.

PARKS, RUNNING and BIKING

SANTIPHAP PARK

I’ve been running at my neighborhood park a couple of times a week, mostly mornings but have run in the evenings. Although it’s a small, it is great. I usually get up early by 6 am and out the door no later than 6:45 for my run.

The park is about a block wide green area with two man-made lakes and lots of trees (labeled) and plants. I’ve noticed that most joggers are older men and women. I feel connected when I run, connected to this place and the people who live here. I rarely see foreigners running here during the day. Each time I run in the park, I recognized the same faces and smile. They smile back. There is a group of women who hang out near the bathrooms, chatting away, with hats and bags. I had no idea who they were until one day I stayed after 8am and realized they were the park staff in charged of watering the grounds, cleaning the area, etc. At south entrance, there is a small shrine and garden area with a nice water fountain situated in a pretty sitting area. I sometimes splash water on my face and head to cool off. After every workout, I spend some time in the small exercise station that has basic workout equipment. Although primitive looking, the workout equipment works and is to work out a sweat and loosen my muscles…well I was sweaty already but anyway.

Of the few evening runs I have done around the park, the place is always packed. At 6pm the aerobics session starts so many people show up, mostly women, and gather in the center of the park. They move like crazy in rhythm to the loud dance music played over the speaker. I notice more foreigners in the evenings, as well as younger people too. Lots of walkers and joggers.

LUMPINI PARK

I made my way to Lumpini Park after my trip to the Khloe Toi Market. The park was created in 1920s by King Rama VI on royal property.  There is a statue of the king at the southwestern entrance to the park, and named after Lumbini, the birthplace of the Buddha in Nepal. It is about 2.5 km in length and has lakes and paths throughout the grounds and various places to rest and relax in the shade.  On my visit, I saw a large lizard while sitting in the shade! It was a hot and sunny day around midday but still noticed people running around the park and biking on the same path. Then I noticed a sign that read, running and biking 11am-2pm…isn't that the hottest time of the day? Hmnn. I would die.

  BIKES and BIKING

I noticed, incredibly enough, a bike path near Democracy Monument on the poorly maintained sidewalk. Although safer than riding in the street, I think biking in general is pretty dangerous here. I wouldn't recommend it to anyone, even the most experienced rider. Traffic lights are not always followed and motorcycles are constantly zipping by, through cars, through red lights, and even on sidewalks. I don’t know how people hop on these motorbike taxis without having a hear attack. I wish I could ride a bicycle here but have only been able to do it in parks and safe-looking places. I came across another bike path on my way to the Khloe Toi Market, tucked away from the main streets along the river…but all of these paths cover short distances and disappear as quickly as they appear.

Biking @ PHRA PRADEANG – GREEN LUNG

The first place that I was able to stretch my legs and ride on a bicycle was when I visited Phra Pradaeng. This place is aweseome! Phra Pradeang is also referred as the Green Lung of Bangkok. According to Seng is like the Wave Hill of Bangkok! But you can’t ride your bike in WH.

I had a great time here. I took a cab from a BTS stop but the taxi driver got lost. Thank god I had the handy atlas with me. And my GPS. We found our way to Wat Klong Toi pier and I hopped on a long-tailed boat to the island. Check ou this link http://travel.cnn.com/bangkok/play/bangkoks-green-lung-048555

I found the perfect bike with a front basket and had such a great time despite the hot sun and humid weather. I couldn’t help smiling..and sweating. It was quiet that day and perhaps because it was because it was (the day after) a holiday…or because it was hot and only silly tourists went out during the day (like me). I made sure I had lots of water and had lunch along the way. My worst fear almost came true- and that was my fear of being run over by a motorbike taxi- luckily, the motorbike taxi stopped on time and the driver smiled and apologized. His passenger also did the same. I kept on riding.

I was amazed at the amount of nature that surrounded me, especially after being in downtown Bangkok. I saw spirit houses and spirit trees along the way, and explored the floating market, which was closed, but it was still nice to visit this quiet and abandoned stalls. It reminded me of Chinatown on a slow day, a resting day. I found my way to the Botanical Garden Si Nakhon Khuen Khan Park after taking a side street and rode around, exploring the grounds. It was lovely, a place with small teak buildings, bridges, trees, plants and animals. This was a happy time for me. Several hours later, when I returned my bike and was having a cold sprite with lots of ice, and tiny and very old women sat next to me asked me in English the same question everyone keeps asking me- Are you traveling alone here?

This week I found out that a friend's husband recently passed away from cancer. Kevin and Annie were such a great couple....and he and Annie opened their doors to friends and family on summer nights for backyard movie nights. Kevin will be missed.

[apexart-journal]

Week 4, Pt. 1@ Bangkok (MOCA, Butterfly Garden, Markets, Gates of Heaven and Hell)

Week 4

May 23- May 26

MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORAY ART

I finally made my way to the Museum of Contemporary Art this week. The museum building is impressive but I wouldn’t say that about the artwork. Apparently a very wealthy businessman funds this museum and the artwork is from his private collection. I am not surprised. It happens everywhere. 

A lot of National Artists are on display and most of them seem to paint fantastical images that depict spiritual beliefs and folktales that clash with traditional and modern ideas and imagery, here and there. Most seem to allude to Religion (Buddhism, Hinduism and Animism..), Consumerism, Capitalism, and other isms you have to write in Capital letters. Some pieces aren’t my style but there were a few (some I've posted).  I was able to appreciate the technical and formal elements as well as cultural references in most of the paintings and perhaps one or two sculptures (there weren't that many). Overall, I thought the work a bit too literal, too flat, too pretty, too fantastical for me. Naked women, orgies, landscapes and animals? Nah. But why isn’t Montien here? Hmnnn.  Funny enough, I could use the same language to describe some work I've seem back home...

  CHUTACHAK PARK AND BUTTERFLY GARDEN

The trip up to Chatuchak Park and the nearby Butterfly and Insect Garden was a very relaxing experience. I always seem to enjoy myself in these pockets of green space that seem are kept tucked in various parts of the city. 

I saw several butterflies here although I didn't take pictures of them all. Fortunately, I found panels with pictures of butterflies that helped me identify the following: Grey Pansy, Common Mormom, Leopard Lacewing, Golden Birdwing, Plain Tiger, Orange Oakleaf, Great Eggfly. 

  CHUTACHAK WEEKEND MARKET Revisited

Last day at Chatuchak Market and trip to Wat Wamphut with Logan. I realized I wasn’t in the mood to shop so just wandered around and finally gave I and bought a pair of fisherman's pants. Bought fresh fruit, mango being my favorite, and some chicken pieces on a stick. Decided to see a movie and relax and found myself at Century One movie theater. I watched Star Trek! For some reason, I missed my family and friends

THIEVES NIGHT MARKET (Flashlight Market)

The Thieves Market on Saturday night is quite the scene. Although it’s called the Thieves Market, it doesn’t really have that vibe anymore. You can find just about anything- old remote controls, spare car parts, tools, hair accessories, old bubble TVs, shoes, lots of tasty food, watches, books, clothing, hardware, old phones, etc. It was nice just walking around and checking out things that I would never buy but I wonder who will?

PARK- The Pink Shirt Ladies

On one of my recent runs in the park, I saw one of the Pink Shirt ladies (older women who walk in the park, usually wearing pink shirts). One of them came up to me while I was working out near the exercise machines. She told me she likes my sneakers (Nike free run sneakers) and how much did I pay for them. This conversation took place with smiles, hands gestures and some Thai and English words…

THIS AND THAT

I met Fon for coffee, an arts administrator from Bangkok who Logan knows through the art scene here. She is a really amazing woman who who is very supportive or artists and their projects. We talked about our work as arts administrators, my art practice, past projects and my impressions of Thailand so far. She will be in NY for a conference and we plan on getting together when she is in town the following weekend. (I will be leaving soon! And so much more to do....)

Although Fon recommended some great beaches to visit, I decided not to go. I will save this activity for my next trip when I do a rock climbing  trip in Chiang Mai and a beach excursion to Krabi. A beach trip should be at least a week and I don’t have time for it. Until next time! 

WAT WAMPHUT OUTING

What a weird, surreal, bizarre and amazing temple! The gates of heaven and hell temples are only hour out of the city. Monks made these scenes depcting heaven (going up) and hell (going down).Check this out! Thank you Logan…

 http://faythelevine.blogspot.com/2011/02/wat-phut-udomphom-fortune-tellers-hell.html

And the crazy fish out by the river...

[apexart-journal]

Week 3, Pt. 3@ Bangkok (Grand Palace, Queen Sirikit Textile Museum, National Museum, Movie Night)

Week 3- Bangkok

May 15- May 22 

GRAND PALACE / QUEEN SIRIKIT TEXTILE MUSEUM

 Finally, I decided to visit the Grand Palace, a complex established in 1782. It consists of the royal residence and throne halls, government buildings, and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (Wat PHra Kaew). This place is one the biggest tourist attractions and it almost felt like Disneyland! Yes, it was a mob scene that day and HOT. Having seen so many resplendent temples and buildings, I was still quite amazed. So much gold, so much color, so much of everything. I did start to recognize familiar architectural elements in the buildings, mythical creatures and forms that I’ve seen before. The wall murals were impressive and it offered a great place to sit and keep away from the sun and drink water! I followed the crowd and enjoyed myself despite the craziness around me. 

The Emerald Buddha shines through (zoomed in photo).

Temple Guardians

A real plant! 

The Emerald Budd is the temple’s primary attraction and it sits atop an elevated alter, barely visible. The figure is always cloaked in royal robes. The king changes the robes in a ceremony three times a year, one for each season. Recently restored Buddhist murals line the interior  walls of the boht, and murals of the Ramakian (Thai version of the Indian epic the Ramayana) line the inside walls of the temple compound. These are really impressive, colorful and gilded.

When I discovered the Queen Sirikit Textile Museum near the exit of the Grand Palace, I was finally able to chill out and walk around at my own pace. This museum was a gift from the queen and her SUPPORT Foundation. Queen Sirikit founded SUPPORT in 1976 to encourage the production of traditional Thai handicrafts. The museum’s mission is to collect, display, and preserve textiles from the region with special emphasis on textiles of and related to the Royal Court. I was impressed by the high standards in conservation, excellently translated English text, and exhibition display and interactives throughout the galleries. This was the first museum that seemed cohesive and very well maintained….and I assume because related to the royals. On view were8 different styles of clothing that the Queen wore on her American and European Tour several years after her marriage to the King. For her, clothing revealed one’s cultural identity. After much research by her staff, she worked with a designer to create various styles that combined traditional and contemporary patterns, materials, and techniques to create clothes that emphasized Thailand’ past and present. The materials exhibited are exquisite. I wish I could have touched them but alas they were safely displayed behind temperature controlled light sensitive glass cases.

http://www.queensirikitmuseumoftextiles.org/

 NATIONAL MUSEUM, BANGKOK

My visit to the National Museum was interesting… although some, if not most of galleries were in need of repair and upkeep, it was interesting to walk through the space and piece together Thailand's history although I noticed it was told through one voice, an older perspective (a very different experience from the visit to the Museum of Siam). The translations of text panels were challenging to read but I was able to understand most of the descriptions and enjoyed the dioramas and some objects on view (that sometimes were oddly paired with other objects) for their visual beauty. A couple of things stood out for me: dioramas depicting battle scenes in earlier times; maps describing strategic political decisions; tools of war/politics; religious/spiritual references; importance of the arts in society (music, dance, visual art); the tenuous relationship of the monarchy and democratic government; intricate craftsmanship in wood; and traditional musical instruments. After my visits to Ayutthaya, the Grand Palace, many temples and cultural institutions, I left with a better understanding of the rapid changes that Thailand encountered in the past 200 years. There are still certain traditions and beliefs vying with contemporary and modern concerns and issues, and the influence of Western culture in education, politics, gender roles, etc. has been tremendous. It's interesting to see some of these uncertainties and struggles reflected in the exhibition of the nation's cultural material....who are we? What is our story? 

King Chulalongkorn (King Rama iV) is considered one of the greatest kings of Siam. His reign was characterized by the modernization of Siam, immense government and social reforms and as the nation was threatened by Western expansionism, King Chulalongkorn, through his policies and acts, managed to save Siam from being colonized.

I wonder what US President gave this gun to the King? Was it Teddy? Ha.

Princess performing with a traditional musical instrument.

MOVIE NIGHT

I decided to end my day with a movie night so I went to the Scala, an old Art Deco movie theater and saw The  Great Gatsby. It was raining in Bangkok and the night sparkled like the extravagant lights in the movie….and I missed New York.

[apexart-journal]

Week 3, Pt. 2@ Ayutthaya (Temples by Boat and Bike)

Week 3- Ayutthaya

May 15- May 22

AYUTTHAYA

I went out to Ayutthaya the day after I got back from my trip to Chiang Mai. Ayutthaya was the ancient capital of Siam from 1350 to 1767 with 33 kings of five dynasties ruling this kingdom. It was situated near the ocean and served as a major trading port with a flow of international merchants. The last of the empires battles was in 1767 when an invading Burmese army destroyed the city to the ground. The capital moved to Bangkok where many buildings mirror those in the ancient city. UNESCO liste it as a World Heritage Site in the early 1990s and since then, the Thai Government as approved a plan for conservation and development of this city. You can see these results and ongoing efforts at various sites in the area.

I took a mini-van that left every 15 or so minutes from Victory Monument down the street from the apartment. I hopped in a minivan jus at it was about to pull out. In an hour and half, we were dropped off in the central market. Using my map (since myGPS wasn’t working) I eventually found my way to a side street where several guests houses were located. I found a room at Tony's Place where I was surrounded by other foreigners (farangs) like me. This city was great to explore by bike, boat, or on foot. 

WATS BY BIKE

I rented a bike across the road for two days and explored several temples on the island. Although hot and sunny both days, the weather didn’t seem as bad as in Bangkok. Perhaps I was getting used to it? Riding a bike kept me cool. and I had to remind myself not to ride on the wrong side (right) of the road, and by hyper aware of the constant flow of vehicles....which was…scary sometimes. But doable. 

On the first day, I visited the Ayutthaya Historical Park, a complex full of ancient ruins. Wat Phra Mahtahat (built in 1373 and has the famous sand stone Buddha head that is tangled within a tree’s roots); Wat Ratburana (saw this one from afar, the prang has detailed carvings of lotus and mythical creatures); and Wat Thammikarat (ancient pillars and large Buddha head).

You can see Wat Ratburana in the background.

Wat Thammikarat

WATS BY BOAT

My first evening at Ayutthaya, I took a boat ride around the island along with other foreigners staying at the guesthouse. We visited three temples: Wat Panan Choeng, the oldest monastery house housing Thailand’s largest ancient Buddha image known as Luan Po To created in 1325 and sits 19 meters high; Wat Phutthai Sawan (reclining Buddha and prang); and Wat Chai Watthanaram (impressive large Khmer-style central prang built in 1630).

After the boat ride, the group got together for dinner and drinks. At the table we had people from all over. Foreigners that I've met have usually been Dutch, French Canadian, French…and yes, Spaniards and Australians. Most of the group's members had either just arrived 2 days ago or 2 weeks and they were fascinated about my apex residency. :)

  Wat Panan Choeng

Wat Phutthai Sawan

 Wat Chai Watthanaram 

On the second day I continued to explore the city on my bike. I visited: Wian Phra Mongkhon Bophit; Wat Phra Si Samphet (3 large chedis); and Wat Lokayasutharam (reclining Buddha). Along the way, I took snapshots of other impressive ancient ruins.

Wian Phra Mongkhon Bophit

Lucky sticks number results @Wian Phra Mongkhon Bophit 

Wat Phra Si Samphet (3 large chedis)

Conservation work underway...

  Teak house.

Wat Lokayasutharam

Spirit Tree

I whizzed on around my bike to all the temples I found interesting. I chanced upon a market and ended up buying a pair of lovely drums, which I dumped in my bike basket and continued on to the elephant kraal. Wow, these are beautiful large elephants. Love looking at them and being in their presence so I hung out for a bit and took video. They area symbol of Thailand and have played a significant part in Thailand's history: warfare, logging/clearing of trees, and special spiritual significants with its association with Buddhist and Hindu beliefs.

I went in search of the old palace but that area was closed off so I rode my bike around a bit more before I hopped on a  minivan back to Bangkok. This two day excursion was definitely worth it.

  I got back rom Ayutthaya on Monday evening, in time for Amy's memorial service online. She is at peace now.

[apexart-journal]

Week 2@ Bangkok (Cultural Institutions, Markets, Malls, Shrines, Baiyoke Tower)

Week 2

May 9-May 14

  LAUNDRY

After about a week here, I had to do laundry. When I asked about a dryer, the staff laughed at me and pointed to the balcony! So after washing my load of clothes in the washing machine, I put them out to dry on the balcony and voila, in less than 90 minutes my clothes were dry. Fast.

  JIM THOMPSON HOUSE LECTURE AND TOUR

This afternoon, I went to the Jim Thompson Art Center to see the exhibition "Montien Boonma: Unbuilt/Rare Works" and attend the conference "Montien Boonma: Other Dimensions, Life and Work." I wasn't familiar with his art and so was inspired and humbled today. Afterwards, in contemplation, I went on an evening run followed by a late dinner with a cold beer. Still thinking...about Edmund Husserl's concept of epoché, Buddhism and art, Montien's thoughts about space, the environment vs. urban development, materiality, the sala Thai, labor, craft, etc. "My work...speaks from the space between our belief....presented and un-presented. I like something that doesn't tell too much and something happens... http://www.jimthompsonhouse.com/events/Montien-Boonma.asp

I returned to the Jim Thompson Art Center for a guided tour of the grounds, which I didn’t get a chance to do that the day before. The tour was very informative. Jim Thompson was an architect and entrepreneur who founded the Jim Thompson Thai Silk Company and promoting Thai silk. 25 years after living and working in Thailand, he mysteriously disappeared while taking a walk on holiday in Malaysia. His house became a museum and features his personal art collection of ceramics, and traditional arts and crafts. The Jim Thompson Art Center also features thematic-based contemporary exhibitions, both group and solo exhibitions, as well as lectures and events. During this tour, I saw an intricate woodcut of fish in of lower halls. It was used to create patterns on fabric and had interchangeable parts for different colors. There were also several exquisite porcelain vases on view behind glass armoires. Each room was beautifully designed and decorated with recycled furniture to create new spaces and objects. Jim Thompson used to be an architect and he built his own house by putting together 6 traditional Thai teak houses he acquired from various parts of Thailand. He modernized the living spaces and sometimes even flipped the walls so that the exterior architectural surfaces were on the inside. He created small hallways wherever he joined two houses and used windows as niches for artwork, which was pretty amazing.  No pictures were allowed inside, unfortunately.

  MALLS and MALL AREA

There are way too many malls in Bangkok. I grew up in NJ where malls abound so even for me, these malls are too much! The great things about malls are the AC and WiFi. Besides the food sold along the streets and shops, Siam Center and Siam Paragon have food courts. These places have many yummy treats. Food courts operate on a cash card system- you give the cashier money and receive a card valued at that amount to purchase food. You get your money back if you don’t use it up. Siam Square is where hip young college students hang out, lots of interesting shops, cafes, and stores, art spaces, etc.  During a walk through this area with Logan, we visited a gallery space (closed), a skate shop and a street artist who gave us stickers as we left the store, explored an office supply store that had awesome informative posters, and finally ended up at the Scala theater, an art deco theater that is supposed to be torn down (although there have been many protests to stop this). Cheap tickets for 150 Baht ($5).

I finally tried durian, a fruit unique to Southeast Asia. I ate durian ice cream at I Berry in Siam Square and although it tasted okay, I don’t think I’ll ever have it again. It’s a very fragrant fruit and had a bad aftertaste. Yes, sweaty stinky socks. Bad hiccups.

BANGKOK CULTURAL CENTER – BCC

I stopped by the Bangkok Cultural Center before their exhibitions closed. Its a building a al Guggenheim but much…. less interesting. The top levels have contemporary exhibitions (two were already closed), and shops along the other areas. The exhibitions on display were: Raj Loesaung and The Boy Somboon Hormtienthong (comic artist and painter/sculptor; Possession, a group exhibition with international artists exploring this theme; and Pharmacide Art, a group exhibition exploring counterfeit goods in the pharmaceutical industry. There was also a small open air exhibition and conference on South Asian writers on the ground floor. Outside were sculptures from a previous street art exhibition according to Logan. 

It seems that the original idea was to have the space with art galleries and exhibitions but now it seems that the building was filling up with shops and cafes and feels somewhat commercial.

  ERAWAN SHRINE

As I walked the skyway one day heading east, I came upon the Erawan Shrine located in the corner of a luxury mall complex near the skywalk. I stayed behind for a bit and made my own offering. The shrine was originally in the late 1950s as an attempt to end a string of bad luck that had befallen the construction of a luxury hotel. After consulting with a Brahmin priest, he determined that since the hotel was going to be named after the elephant escort of Indra in Hindu mythology, he suggested that a statue of Lord Brahma be its passenger. After Erawan Shrine was built, all the bad luck ended. Several years ago, a mentally ill man defaced the statue early one morning, and he was killed by an angry mob. A new statue replaced it with some pieces of the old sculpture. It’s a beautiful area and visually arresting and sweet smelling.

    AMULET MARKET AND Mho Chit II Night Bazaar

Logan introduced me to Craig, an artist, entrepreneur, and designer who lives and work in Bangkok and Japan. As a fellow New Yorker, we had a lot to talk about. His wife's family runs the Awagami Paper Company, a well-known Japanese paper mill company that produces fine art paper. He used to be a buyer for high-end retail stores in the States and traveled all over the world meeting many people and acquiring hand made furniture, decorative objects, textiles, etc. After many years in the business, he left and moved to Thailand to pursue other interests but still continues to keep his eye open for artistic inspiration and purchases. He took me to the amulet market (inside and outside) near the Grand Palace, beyond the area I had explored briefly. Amulet markets are usually found near the edges of temples or places of 

We talked about art, life, and fish imagery. He knew several people selling merchandise at the amulet market and the night bazaar.  I was amazed at the rows and rows of stalls selling amulets and other spiritual/religious artifacts. We encountered many characters along the way selling questionable wares. There was one woman that seemed to be selling medicinal stuff and another guy was wearing tons of unusual pendants and jewelry. From stones, wood, to ivory and bright glittery materials mixed in with more traditional materials. It's actually quite nice to see this- the contemporary mixed with the old. I was thinking of woodcuts and fish imagery…reminded of LESP and our upcoming WH exhibition in the fall.

In the evening, we visited Mho Chit II Night Bazaar, the night bazaar near Chatuchak Weekend Market. This market had very few foreigners and lots of young hip, stylish people. We met lots of local artisans and artists such as the T-shirt Number Guy and the Buddha-inspired and self-taught painter, Bobbie (Or Phetang…?). Craig knew both from previous interactions. We found Bobbie in the company of young group artists drinking beer outside his shop. When he saw Craig he quickly came over and embraced him and we spoke for a bit about his paintings and drawings. He was so kind and gave me two of his drawings which I really like and will need to find a place to hang back in my apartment. We left the market close to midnight and I was beat after a long day of marketing-ing.

  BAIYOKE TOWER and Area

I explored Petchburi Rd area near my apartment (Pratunam District) and spent some time wandering the streets and malls. This area is known for the wholesale shopping madness in the street markets and malls. I ended my night at the Baiyoke Tower on the rotating observation deck, the tallest point in Thailand. What a spectacular view…sunset and night views.1

[apexart-journal]

Week 1, Pt. 1@ Bangkok (Intro, Temples... It's been too long...let's start from the beginning) สวัสดี ค่ะ

I've been in Thailand, mostly in Bangkok for more than three weeks now. A lot has happened along the way and now it's time to share more of this experience on this blog. I have been posting images and thoughts on Facebook when I've had wifi access and included some of these moments but much more. Writing about my time here has been more difficult that I anticipated. Sometimes, I just wanted to keep these thoughts to myself, or share them with others orally. Other times...I just couldn't find the words to describe feelings and thoughts. I kept a journal and scrawled my experience throughout the week, attempting to put some order to my thoughts. I uploaded images every night, archiving them and capturing in my life. I do believe that images are powerful and can tell the stories we are not able to articulate. That said, I have tried to include images as words or gestures. Enjoy!

  Week 1

May 1- May 8

My first week went by a whirl of activity, learning how to ride the BTS (Bangkok Mass Transit System) and getting around with a map and the GPS on my phone. Lots of color, green spaces and potted plants, sounds, contrasting architecture, spirit houses, spirit trees, religious yet poetic gestures, ferry rides along the river, patterns, repetitive patterns, temples, temples, massage, walking, walking, smiling, canal boats, shopping malls, sky walks, Chinatown, food stalls, spicy foods, food markets, flower markets, amulet markets, markets, shopping, 7-elevens at EVERY corner, biking at the Green Lung, running in the park, exotic plants, motorcycle taxis, colorful cabs/interior shrines, modern architecture, temple etiquette….phew.

First impression of Bangkok? HOT, HUMID, BUSY city.

I was sick the first couple of days and I think it was my body’s way of adjusting to a hot, sunny and humid tropical place- everyday is in the upper 90’s with a heat index of 105 degrees. Or perhaps it was the 21hour flight from New York? I usually open the balcony door to check out the weather which reminds me of Guayaquil in the summer- hot sticky and sunny. You have to shower at least twice a day. I apparently arrived pre-rainy season.

I live near a BTS station (Victory Monument) so I am able to move around the city pretty quickly at least north and south of central Bangkok. The air-conditioned and nicely designed station has easy to read signage in English and Thai. Each train car has a small screen that tells you your stop. A very different experience from the NYC subway system….which isn’t bad but this system beats NYC by a long shot. It doesn’t run 24 hrs though…only until midnight. Everyone is orderly ad polite- no shoving or pushing although rush hour can be a bit insane. It’s a relief to get in a train after walking through the hot streets all day!

I have to say that really enjoy walking on the skywalks. These are walkways raised above the traffic below and connecting to the train system and of course the malls. It’s a great way to avoid traffic and getting run over by a motorcycle. It’s also cooler there. The architecture from the skyway is amazing. (The skywalks remind me of the High Line but more practical.) Malls are also really big here, a refuge from the hot heat, free WiFi and of course social spaces for young and old a like (besides shopping). Besides trains and malls to escape the heat, there are also 7-Elevens strategically placed at least two on every block. Seriously. You can get anything at this store such as American chocolate, ice, cup of noodle, as well as get change for a large bill.  

Walking to the train station can be an adventure as I make my way down sidewalk (day or night) packed with people waiting for the bus, buying clothes or shoes, or food along the many many stalls and kiosks jammed on the sidewalks. These open and close markets areas sell a lot of clothing, mostly if not all for women. I also noticed a lot of phone cases, belts, watches, hats, shoes, sandals, and umbrellas. Many different vendors use the same location throughout the day. In the morning, there’s a guy who sells sweet fried bread, a fruit woman, a hat guy, the handbag woman, then the mini corn pancake woman, then the chicken kebab guy…and finally the flower woman…it’s a rotating group of vendors, and I usually see the same ones each day. I usually buy my meals at these stalls… There is so much stuff for sale on the sidewalks, spilling out from indoor spaces! The only day when the sidewalks and edges are clear is on Monday, which is the street cleaning day.

The food is culture and in Thailand, that’s pretty obvious. Although I don’t eat meat often, I have definitely tasted my share of pork, chicken and sausages. Its’ all tastu and most of it is spicy. There food stalls everywhere. Fresh vegetables, chicken, pork, seafood stir fries, curries, noodles, soups, pastries, fruit…you can buy all of this at the food stalls along the streets (food carts of small sitting areas in a side street or street) or fancy restaurants (more expensive). I also still can’t figure out how people can eat hot and spicy soup when it’s so hot outside or how food vendors can bear the heat from their cooking pots. Along with Thai food, there are of course lots of fast food in the malls, including, yes MacDonalds, Burger king, etc. To be honest, I don’t know what most of the food I have tried is called but most of it has been really good. Along with bottled soft drinks (can’t help it) and mango smoothies! Bottled tea tends to be really sweet so I avoid these but the natural juice drinks sold in kiosks in town (especially in Chinatown) are pomegranate, mango, coconut, and orange fruit juices. Yum! I am also partial to bottled seltzer water that is produced by Singha. And yes, it’s the same company that produces the Singha beer. I really like the company’s symbol of the Singha, a mystical lion found in ancient Hindu and Thai stories.  It’s a powerful mythological creature that I’ve noticed in temples, buildings and gardens in the city.

This week I went out and hit the tourist areas each day. I visited many temples in the old part of the city and explored Chinatown and local markets by foot, train, ferry rivers and canal boats. With the help of a map and my handy Iphone with GPS, I set out to explore. Each day I carry: Burner phone, conversational Thai booklet, digital camera, hand wipes, tissue paper, journal, shoulder wrap, wallet, and bandana.

A little preview of the beliefs of this land is the noticeable spirit houses I encountered along the way. There is a nicely maintained one down the street at the gasoline station and one in the park where I run. These spirit houses (san phra phum) are shrines. They are colorful and ornate structures made from wood, cement or brick and resemble miniature temples and are placed outside homes, business, schools and public areas and mounted on pillars. Spirit worship is connected to animism and pre-dates Buddhism. And form part of everyday life here. These spirits or ghosts are believed to live in rivers, trees, and other natural features and are honored and placated, put at east. These small houses provide shelter for the spirits who live on the land where the houses or businesses are built. Before anything is built on the land, permission must be granted by the spirits and consecrated by a Brahmin priest. Shrines are always built in the corner of the property and must never be placed in the building’s shadow. Thais leave offering to the spirits: flowers, candles, incense, fruit, rice, chicken, sweet drinks. They also have figurines of people and animals and can be quite beautiful and sometimes so unexpected against the grey looming and dirty streets of this urban space.

In order to get to some of these places, I rode a ferryboat on the Chao Phra Ya River that runs along the west side of Bangkok. These boats are great to ride and take in some splendid views of the city along the river, with temples and impressive buildings and wooden homes propped along the river. Color flags are attached to each boat and indicate express, local, and tourist lines. For the most part, these conductors seem to know enough English to deal with us tourists. I always have to remind myself to need to remember to stay on my left and move along quickly. This goes for everything- walking on the left side, driving on the left side, etc.

Canal boats and long-tail boats are somewhat different- they are smaller boats and not as easy to get into sometimes, especially the smaller long-tail boats. Canal boats take you along the canal, dirty and smelly but somewhat scenic and fast way to cross east to west along the canal. I noticed that most of the boats, be it small or large were wrapped in colorful fabric and flowers to calm the spirits of the ocean, for protection. Spirits of the land, the trees, the ocean…

After my first few days here, I also bought an umbrella (or should I say parasol), one of the best decisions I made here. It helps me keep me out of the hot sun as I explore. Temple visit etiquette requires no shorts or tank tops so I always carry a light shawl to throw over my shoulders (some temples rent smocks/skirts/shawl).

TEMPLES

WAT ARUN

Wat Arun is also knows as the Temple of Dawn. It is covered in mosaics made from broken pieces of Chinese porcelain. I climbed to the top of the spires and got a great view of the river and beyond. I am glad I visited early in the day because there was wonderful light. I loved the glint of sunshine on all these patterns. And the gardens! The garden was great. There is a lot of color and patterns in these temples. Fragments of history, right?

WAT PHO

The famous reclining Buddha lives in Wat Pho, a temple located across the river from Wat Arun and short walk from the pier. It is a large magnificent place with a lot of trees, plants, and splendid structures. The large golden form takes up the entire main building. The ceilings are magnificent and I had to walk around to view the form in its entirety- from head to foot. Everywhere there is beauty made of color and repetition of pattern. For good luck, I picked up a pot of coins, and walked along the back, dropping coins like music…. How could I not take pictures? I noticed the flower patterns depicted in the mosaics that reminded me of the flowers planted in the gardens. This place felt so connected- the architecture of the building with the architecture and design of the garden. 

    I was amazed at the green green green. Not only here but also elsewhere in general. The ride on the BTS gave me a glimpse of the city and the pockets of green that exists at that level and here in the temples, it's even more splendid. Little gardens set up to contrast again the white walls, golden spires and colorful mosaics. Organic forms blend with the man-made. Terrific.

Although it was only a 30min session, it was good. I continued to walk on the grounds, taking in the landscape, sitting down to enjoy the tranquility of the place and noticing a couple of things that I would see in temples or public spaces.  I noticed a large and beautiful tree with colorful material tied around the base and various offerings made to it. This was a spirit tree. Like the spirit houses, these large and old trees also have spirits and they are honored. In wats, these trees are usually Banyan (fig) trees, which is also the tree that Lord Buddha was sitting when he received enlightenment. This tree also had whitewashed wooden sticks, perhaps bamboo, leaning against. These sticks had writing along the edge…it was so beautiful, so poetic. I connected with it and sat to look at it for awhile. These sticks were supports for this holy tree, a symbolic gesture…

I noticed the forms repeated along the top of a wall that looked like two hands in prayer. This form reminds me of how Thais greet each other (hello, thank you) by putting the hands together, palm to palm, and raising near the chin.

WAT RATCHNADA/Loha Prasat metal castle with spires

WAT SAKET (GOLDEN MOUNT)

I walked over to Wat Saket (Golden Mount), which lies on a man-made hill and offered a great view of the city. Although I was hot and thirst I climbed the 320 steps to the top. It used to be the highest point in Bangkok at 80 meters high with a chedi (golden spire) on top. Inside people made offerings of lotus flowers, incense and a candle. Some even put small pieces of gold on the statue. I made a small donation and picked up my flowers, candles and incense. Such great smells, such sights…it was nice.

I walked down the steps and out in the street where I noticed woodshops all along the street. You could smell the wood- cedar- so I peeked at the shops and studios and checked out some of the ornate wall pieces and figures that were on view.

WAT SUTHAT, GIANT SWING, MONKS BOWL, WAT RATHABOPHIT

I found myself walking along the street and noticed a lot of shops selling Buddha images as well as materials for monks like robes and what I presumed 'kits' they needed before entering the monkhood. Socially, Thai men are expected to be a monk for a short period between the time he finishes school and before he starts his career or marries. It is an honor to the family. In the past, men spent time in the wat or at least 3 months. Now a days, it’s even less time. As monks, they live an ascetic life and give up worldy goods and concerns.  I am always in awe when I see the bright orange robes billowing about in the streets of Bangkok. I have also seen women in white who apparently have a minor role in the temple but do not become full monks. They are like nuns.

Down the street from these shops is Wat Suthat and the Giant Swing. The Giant Swing is a high wooden red pillars that used to have a swing suspended high above where teams of young men would get on the swing in attempts to grab bags of gold or coins with their teeth in honor of the Hindu God Shiva. Of course, swinging that high resulted in many deaths and so it was eventually banned. Wat Suthat has many pegodas and offered a shaded place to sit and relax. I came across a small group of artisans fixing the base of two Buddha figures, replacing the colorful pieces of glass.

When I walked into the Wat Suthat, I sat and listened to the ‘discussion’ between two monks…I had no idea what they were saying but it looked like fun bantering to me, one smiled, the other laughed, and the people sitting down watching them laughed were laughed as well. There was a nice breeze that moved through the temple doorways.

Down the street, the Monks Bowl village still existed but there were a few craftsmen making black alms bowls (Same ones I saw in Temple Wat Pho). The village has shrunk a lot since the demand of this traditionally made bowls has decreased significantly but it is still possible to see some being made. I walked down to another temple, Wat Rathabophit and checked out the glass-encrusted chedi.

I was constantly drinking liquids- water, juices, and fruit bars like mango and passion fruit.