#From Tallinn: Day Trip to Lahemaa National Park
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New Post has been published on https://www.shelovestotravel.net/2024/05/07/passport-to-tallinn-part-three/
Passport to Tallinn: Part Three
First let me start off by saying I am sorry it has been, dare I say, years since my last blog post. The last time I wrote anything was about Tallinn, Estonia in November 2018 to be exact. It isn’t that I lost my love for travel or writing. The one word I hate to use is procrastination but it is what it is. I kept putting off writing; not the travel since my next trip was the following year to Lithuania and then again in 2023 to Latvia. Don’t worry I plan to write about those trips and won’t wait years before writing about them. Besides the trips to Europe, I did take some trips in the U.S. during the time when Covid hit.
Now onto Part Three: Passport to Tallinn as promised. I realized in the previous part I was going to talk about places within the old town that helped me fall in love with it. Alas I ended up talking about visiting one of the cemeteries in the city. Of course, Siselinna Kalmistu is not in the old town. It is a bit of a walk from it and you can easily get lost if you do not have a decent app on your phone to help you navigate your way around. Even with using the app, I still managed to get somewhat lost. I say somewhat because you can always find your way around as long as you keep an eye on the landmarks around you which is what I did.
But I digress, since I wanted to talk a bit about the old town and what I loved about it. Its town square is by far one of my favorite squares that I have seen from my travels. Maybe it is because it connects restaurants, shops, cobblestone streets and churches to the square along with the red rooftops that you can see from the top of one of the churches. There was something magical about this part of the city that made me fall in love with it. For one thing, I found it to be a very safe place to walk around at night. During one of these walks, I found the Old Dominican Monastery so you know I had to walk through it….. Another thing I found on one of my walks through this area was all of the hidden courtyards that I stumbled upon without even looking for it.
I did manage to venture a bit away from the old town by finding my way to Kadriog Park and Palace. It was easier for me to find then I thought. I am sure it helped that I found an off-line map that I could use during my travels. Again, I digress, I do realize I should’ve read up on the days that it would be open since I made my way there on a Tuesday. They happen to be closed on the one day I show up. With my luck, I had read on Tripadvisor they would be open that day so I didn’t think anything of it. Now, if you do plan a visit to the palace, please note that it’s closed on Mondays and Tuesdays and public holidays. The rest of the week it opens at 10 o’clock.
I ended up walking around the park grounds on that Tuesday. I did make my way there on another day and realized I was completely happy just walking around the grounds and not even walking through the palace.
Besides visiting the old town and Kadriorg Park; I did manage to pay three euros to walk along the city wall. I am glad I did this and that’s coming from someone who has a slight fear of heights. All I can say is this gave me a different view from the city by walking along the wall. I was able to wind my way down from the wall and walk towards Hirvepark and ran into the church at the end of the road from Toompea.
Now you’re probably wondering, did I stay in the city or did I decide to be a little adventurous and venture further out?
Drumroll please…. I let the adventure take over and decided to take a tour outside of the city.
I booked the tour through The Knight House where I was staying for the entirety of my trip. The tour they booked me with was Toth Tours. I chose Lahemaa National Park as the excursion I wanted to see away from the capital. The cost for this particular tour was 40 euros which roughly came out to $50 U.S. dollars. Not bad for the day …. Our tour guide was Victor Manuel who was very knowledgeable of where we were headed. The tour consisted of eight people which made it nice. Not having a lot of people on the bus or throughout this experience made it more personable and not crowded. The first stop on the way to the park was Jagala waterfall. I couldn’t believe it when I saw it because it doesn’t look anything like what you would consider your typical waterfall. Or is there such a thing as your ‘typical’ anything? ’ What I mean is the water looked rusty. Then again they do sell a lot of amber around here and that is what it made me think of is that particular color.
The next stop on the tour was an abandoned mansion. This was one of my favorite parts of the tour. I only wished I could have walked through every room and done some exploring. At least I was able to walk around the grounds. Better than anything. Anyway if you ever find your way to this country; you should add Kolga manor to your list of places to visit. You didn’t think this was the only mansion I was able to see the outside of, did you? After leaving the mansion, we headed to another mansion which I believe was called Pigeon House. Do you know why it is called this? It got its name because messenger pigeons would find their way back home to the gatehouse that was located right as you entered the grounds.
Upon leaving the second mansion, we made our way to the park. It is interesting to say the least. It wasn’t and I am going to use this work again, your ‘typical’ or should I say my ‘typical’ park that I have visited. I walked through the bog which is basically peat. There is a path for you to walk on which is wood boards or slants because if you don’t keep to them then the peat has this squishy feel to it and you would feel like you were sinking into it. The wood slants were at the beginning where we started all the way through to where we met our tour guide at the end. To give you a description of these slants, they started out wide and then the further you went into the bog the narrower they would get. That was a little scary for me since there was water on both sides of the boards as we were making our way to the other end of this adventure.
How could I forget the watch tower or this traditional estonian swing I got to go on with this tour. The water tower was at the beginning of the park and the swing was after we left the park. How could I forget this swing since I got smacked with it. Let me explain: It was a big swing where you have two people on one side of the swing and the two on the other side of it. The swing would keep going faster and faster. I saw how it was done with the four before me and I thought I wouldnt have to do it. Alas I did. It was nerve wracking because I felt as if I was on a ferris wheel looking down. I held on for dear life …. You are probably wondering how do you slow the swing down so you can exit it? Well, to slow it down, you have to stand still until the swing slows down. Then the tour guide held onto it for us so we could depart. This is where I smacked myself. I should have backed up and instead of doing that , I went around to the side and ran into the wood pole that was part of the contraption. How embarrassing for me?
To end the tour, we stopped and had lunch. I wish I had gotten the name of the place where we stopped. I ended up ordering the fish which was stuffed with something that resembled spinach, boiled potatoes and salad which to me looked like coleslaw. I noticed their main staples for food appear to be pork, boiled potatoes and they seem to love dill. After lunch, we drove along the coastline making our way back to the city and the place I am calling home for the time I am here.
What can I say about this place that has touched my heart? Only that I hope to one day make my way back to Tallinn ….
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If you are thinking of traveling to Tallin, Estonia, you are in the right place. Tallinn is the capital city of Estonia and it is a popular destination for tourists. Here are some ideas for things to see and do in Tallinn: Visit the Old Town: Tallinn's Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage site and it is filled with medieval charm. It is home to many landmarks, including the Town Hall Square, St. Nicholas Church, and the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. Take a walking tour: There are many guided walking tours available in Tallinn that will take you around the city and introduce you to its history and culture. Explore the Kadriorg Palace: The Kadriorg Palace is a beautiful Baroque palace that was built for Catherine I of Russia. It is now home to the Estonian Art Museum. Visit the Tallinn TV Tower: The Tallinn TV Tower is a popular attraction that offers panoramic views of the city. You can also enjoy a meal at the rotating restaurant at the top of the tower. Shop at the Balti Jaam Market: The Balti Jaam Market is a popular spot for tourists and locals alike. It is a great place to find souvenirs, try local food, and meet the locals. Take a day trip to the Lahemaa National Park: Located about an hour's drive from Tallinn, the Lahemaa National Park is a beautiful place to spend the day. You can hike or bike through the park, visit a manor house, or relax on the beach. Where to Stay in Tallinn, Estonia? There are many options for places to stay in Tallinn, Estonia. Here are a few ideas: Hotels: Tallinn has a range of hotels to suit different budgets and preferences. Some popular options include the Hotel Schlossle, the Hotel Palace, and the Radisson Blu Sky Hotel. Bed and breakfasts: For a more intimate and homely experience, you might consider staying at a bed and breakfast. There are many B&Bs to choose from in Tallinn, such as the Old House B&B and the Telegraaf Hotel. Apartments: Renting an apartment can be a good option if you want more space and independence. There are many apartments available for short-term rentals in Tallinn, such as the Old Town Apartments and the Tallinn City Apartments. Hostels: If you are traveling on a budget, you might consider staying at a hostel. There are several hostels in Tallinn, including the Hostel Mundo and the Hostel St. Olav. When choosing where to stay in Tallinn, consider your budget and what type of accommodation will best suit your needs. When to Go to Tallinn, Estonia Let us share with you some of the things you need to know when traveling to Estonia. The best time to visit Tallinn, Estonia depends on your personal preferences and what you want to do while you are there. Here are a few things to consider when deciding when to go: Weather: Tallinn has a temperate maritime climate with relatively mild winters and cool summers. The average temperature in the summer is around 20°C (68°F) and in the winter it is around -4°C (25°F). If you want to enjoy warm weather and outdoor activities, the summer months of June, July, and August might be the best time to visit. Festivals and events: Tallinn has a number of festivals and events throughout the year, so you might want to plan your trip around one of these. Some popular events include the Tallinn Music Week in March, the Tallinn Food Festival in August, and the Tallinn Black Nights Film Festival in November. Crowds: Tallinn is a popular destination for tourists, so the city can get quite crowded during the peak tourist season. If you want to avoid the crowds, you might consider visiting during the shoulder season (May, September, and October). Overall, the best time to visit Tallinn will depend on your personal preferences and what you want to get out of your trip. How to Stay Safe in Tallinn? Tallinn is generally a safe city for tourists, but it is always a good idea to take precautions to ensure that your trip is enjoyable and problem-free. Here are a few tips for staying safe in Tallinn:
Be aware of your surroundings: As in any city, it is important to stay alert and aware of your surroundings. Be particularly cautious in crowded areas and at night. Keep valuables safe: Avoid carrying large amounts of cash and keep your valuables (such as your passport and credit cards) safe. Use a money belt or keep your valuables in a hotel safe. Use common sense: Use common sense when it comes to your personal safety. Don't leave your drinks unattended, be cautious of strangers offering help or asking for directions, and avoid walking alone in isolated areas. Know the emergency numbers: Familiarize yourself with the emergency numbers in case you need to contact the police, fire department, or ambulance. In Estonia, the emergency number is 112. By following these simple precautions, you can help ensure that your trip to Tallinn is safe and enjoyable. Estonia Travel Costs The cost of traveling to Estonia will depend on a number of factors, including your mode of transportation, where you stay, and how you spend your time. Here are a few estimates to help you budget for your trip: Flights: Flights to Estonia from the United States can cost anywhere from $700 to $1,500 or more, depending on your departure city and the time of year you travel. Accommodation: The cost of accommodation in Estonia can vary widely. You can find budget options such as hostels and Airbnb rentals for around $30-50 per night. Mid-range options like hotels and guesthouses usually cost around $70-100 per night, while luxury options can cost $100 or more per night. Food: The cost of food in Estonia is generally lower than in other parts of Europe. You can find a meal at a local restaurant for around $10-15, while a meal at a mid-range restaurant will cost around $20-30. Transportation: Public transportation in Estonia is inexpensive and efficient. A one-way ticket on the bus or tram costs around $1-2, while a taxi ride within the city center will cost around $5-10. Overall, you can expect to spend around $50-100 per day on travel costs in Estonia, depending on your style of travel. This is just a rough estimate and your actual costs may be higher or lower depending on your specific plans. Estonian Culture Estonians are affectionate and friendly. The usually talkative people are quite helpful. Estonia, along with Cuba, has the highest literacy rate in the world. In Estonia, the streets are usually empty after 19.30 in the evening. There is a widespread tram network in city centers in the country where there is no traffic problem. It can also be reached by buses. (adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push(); Public transport is free in the capital Tallinn. Harassment, rape, incest, fraud, etc. Estonia, one of the countries with the least incidence of crime in Europe, is the world's number one in internet freedom. There are many bars, pubs and clubs for nightlife in the country. There are more women than men in Estonia. Market Place / Main Square The Market Place has been the heart of the city (then Raval) since the 13th century. Today, the most important concert organizations are held here, traditional Estonian festivals are held here, the Christmas market is set up here at Christmastime, and this square is the meeting point of everyone in daily life. Exactly in 1441, for the first time in the history of the city, the Christmas tree was installed in the middle of this square, and ever since that day, the excitement of Christmas has been experienced in the main square. Alexander Nevsky Orthodox Cathedral Alexander Nevsky Cathedral is Tallinn's oldest Orthodox church and the most ostentatious place of worship. Located in the Old City, this place of worship was built in 1894 for the purpose of spreading Russian architecture in the city when the country was under the rule of the Russian Tsar. This cathedral is symbolic of the policy of Russifying Estonia. Toompea Castle Toompea Castle was
built in baroque style between 1767-1773 on the right wing of the 13th century military fortress. Toompea's history cannot be separated from Estonia's military and political history and its rulers. Each of the rulers had Toompea renovated according to their own needs and tastes. Today, Toompea Castle is home to the Riigikogu, the Estonian Parliament. Kumu Modern Art Gallery Kumu Modern Art Gallery was opened in Tallinn in 2006. Although it is the largest art gallery in Estonia, it has the power to compete with other art galleries in Northern European capitals. Most of the artworks found in Estonia are in this museum and there are both permanent and temporary exhibitions in the museum. The gallery has a comprehensive and open library, training classes, meeting and screening halls. St. Catherine's Monastery Located at the intersection of Müürivahe and Vene Streets in the center of Tallinn, this monastery is thought to be the oldest building in the city. Built in 1246 by the Dominican order of the Catholic faith, the monastery's door was open to monks and anyone seeking seclusion. The monastery had its own hospital section and even a brewery. Estonian Cuisine Your trip to Tallin continues, if you can't decide what to eat, then it's time to talk about what to eat in Tallin. Estonian cuisine has been influenced by the cuisines of Denmark, Sweden, Russia and Germany. The main ingredients of the country's cuisine are meat, sausage, potatoes, cream, pickles, cabbage, salads and brown bread. The main products of the cuisine are meat stew (seljanka), fried varieties, salmon and trout from seafood. (adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push(); Cold appetizers are very important in the kitchen. Rosolje consisting of meat or sausage, beet root, meat and herring served with potato salad is one of the main appetizers. The most important food of Estonians is Estonian bread. Brown bread called leib is also quite common. There are also different types of bread called peenleib and sepik with a sour sweet taste. Among the most well-known traditional dishes of Estonia are curd cheese and bread soups. Among the special dishes of the cuisine are smoked and pickled trout, frozen marinated eel called marineerutud angerjas, pork tongue paste keel hernestega, and a fish that comes in abundance in the Baltic Sea, and a silgusoust dish with ham and cream. In addition, a kind of meatballs with onions, kotlet, kansassi, which is very popular on Christmas days, a kind of curd cheese kohupiim, a kind of sour sauce kapukoor eaten with potato salad or tomato salad, cheese buns sotsnik, powdered cereals with sugar and kefir mixed with kama Estonian are among the special flavors of its cuisine. Vana, Estonia's most famous traditional drink, is a strong drink with 40 percent alcohol content. This drink is usually consumed as cold shots or added to coffee. The country's popular beer brands are A Le Coq, Saku and the darker SakuTume. Among the local vodkas, the most preferred is Viru Valge. Festivals of Estonia Estonians are known as the singing nation. Numerous music festivals have been organized throughout the country since 1981. One of the most important of these festivals is the Estonian and Viljandi Folk Music Festival, which takes place between Thursday and Sunday in the last week of July every year. In addition to Estonian artists, music groups from various countries take the stage at the festival, which has been held since 1993. Held for four days, the festival is known as one of the biggest folk music festivals in Europe. Apart from this, other important music festivals of the country include the International Rock Music Festival held every summer, the Estonian Song and Dance Celebrations held in Tallinn, the capital of the country every spring, and the Tallinn International Jazzkaar Festival held between November and December, also hosted by the capital. Tallinn Old Town Days in May and June, Estonian
Song Celebrations held in 1869 and held every five years, Saaremaa Opera Days held in July, Leigo Lake Music Festival and Brigitta Music and Theater Festival held in August, host colorful shows every summer. Beersummer Festival is another important festival. Tallinn Black Nights Film Festival, which takes place between November and December, is the largest film festival in the country. The Punk Song Festival held in August in the city of Rakvere also welcomes hundreds of visitors every year. In addition, the Ollesummer Beer Festival is held in July every year in the country. In this festival, which is held in the capital city of Tallinn, many famous bands take the stage during the festival. Estonia's Economy Estonia's economy is based on industry. Petroleum and petroleum products have an important place in the industry. In addition, the building materials industry has also developed. Woodworking is also a traditional line of business in the country. The main forest products are paper, plywood, matches, furniture and pulp. Among the weaving products, cotton fabric has an important place in the country's economy, other industrial establishments, oil refining equipment, agricultural tools, mining machines, pipe excavators and factories that manufacture electronic equipment. Agriculture also has an important place in the country's economy. (adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push(); However, since there is not much land suitable for agriculture, half of the plant production consists of plants grown for animals. In the country where animal husbandry is also developed, cattle and pigs are widely fed. The country's economy is growing rapidly based on information technology. Religion and Belief in Estonia Estonia, where 75.7 percent of the population does not have a belief, is the country with the highest atheist population in the world. Only 16 percent of Estonians believe in the existence of God. With this ratio, the country is also the country with the highest atheism rate in the European Union. The most common religion in the country is the Lutheran sect of Christianity. Russian minorities living in the country are generally from the Eastern Orthodox sect of Christianity. A small number of Muslims originating from Tatar and Azeri origin minorities also live in the country, which also includes Baptists, Roman Catholics and Jews. There are also a small number of Protestants and Pagans. Languages Spoken in Estonia What languages do you need to know when traveling to Tallin? The official language of Estonia is Estonian. Since Estonian belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages belonging to the Uralic branch of the Ural-Altaic Language Family, it has a very close relationship with Finnish, which is spoken on the other side of the Gulf of Finland. Russian is still one of the widely spoken languages in the country, as Russian was taught in the Soviet era. Other languages spoken in Estonia are English, Finnish, German and Swedish.
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In April of this year, my friend Hamilton and I went on a road trip around Latvia and Estonia (well one place in Latvia and a bunch of places in Estonia). I’ve done individual posts on each day of the trip but figured it might be helpful to do an overview of the entire route.
RIGA -> TARTU -> TALLINN -> PARNU -> RIGA
We flew in with Ryanair and returned on Air Baltic, both are obviously basic airlines but its only a 2 hour 40 flight so didn’t really matter to us. We only booked about 6 weeks ahead of time and could still get affordable flights.
Please note that we did this over only 6 days simply because that’s all the time we had, you could definitely do it over a longer period and visit more places/stay in some for more time.
We used Sixt car hire and got a nice little Seat Leon, which did the job. I didn’t drive this time because it was cheaper not to and there wasn’t too much driving, but I can tell you it was enjoyable to sit in. Hamilton also seemed to enjoy driving it. The drives in between each place were never that long and generally the roads were incredibly empty, so if you’ve never driven on the right hand side of the road, Estonia is a good place to start.
We had a really good time away and planned it all quite loosely before hand – we prebooked the accommodation, flights, car etc but didn’t choose precisely what we were going to do at any point. I did look up how much different things roughly cost so we we had an idea before we got there (museums, art galleries etc) but I’ll be honest and say I expected food and drink to be less. They were of course cheaper than in London but I wouldn’t say much less money than when I’ve been away to say France/Germany. We were spoiled by how little we spent on our Croatian road trip, I think (link to our Croatian itinerary here). I have a few recommendations of places to eat/drink here and there but often we ate on the road to save time/money.
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(Click on the days for a link to the individual blog posts)
DAY 1 – RIGA
I absolutely loved Riga – its cool and trendy yet has so much history and stunning architecture. One minute you’re walking through fairytale streets and the next you’re in a modern bar. You’re spoilt for choice with food and drink options and there’s plenty to do for a few days stay.
Accommodation: We stayed at the Wellness Centrum Hotel and Spa, which cost £64 (between us). It did everything we needed plus that bit more with spa access, breakfast included and a great location for exploring the old town. The rooms weren’t huge but that didn’t bother us.
Things we did:
Explore the Old Town: Its really nice just to wander round and soak in all of the cobbled streets, churches, gates and squares around the city. Plus its free!
St Peter’s Church Tower: Costs €9 for entrance to the church and to go to the top of the tower for good views of the city. When we went there was lots of art on display around the church but I’m unsure if that is always there.
National Museum of Art: This costs €6.50 and I really recommend going. There is so much Latvian Art to see and its beautifully laid out. There’s also a really nice (and quite upmarket feeling) cafe/restaurant. The only negative thing I have to say about it is that the art gallery staff have no issue really intently watching you look at the art to the point where it becomes slightly unnerving. This may be because the place was almost empty on a Tuesday afternoon though, I can’t be sure.
Art Nouveau architecture: There are a few streets close to the national museum of art that are full of insane buildings. Whether or not you’re an architecture fan, its worth a look. Again, also free!
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DAY 2 – RIGA/TARTU
Tartu wasn’t as large as we had expected – personally just over a day there was long enough for us. It’s pretty but not in the same way as Riga.
The Leaning Art Museum
Accommodation: In Tartu we stayed at the Alexander Apartments which cost us £40 for the night between us. It had on street parking out front and looked like an adorable dolls house inside. The owner was really sweet and couldn’t have been more helpful.
Things we did:
Cathedral/University museum: The remains of the cathedral are free to walk around and quite cool to see. In summer the towers are open but you have to pay a fee for access. Right next to here is the University museum, which we went into in all honesty thinking it was the art museum (damn google maps). Its only €5 to go in but depends what your interests are as to whether you’ll want to go; its mostly a history of the museum. If the special exhibit about crime scenes/detective work is on – it has real tapes/stories of crimes that happened in Estonia and information about them that is really, really interesting. And it’s all in English.
Old Town: Not as large as Riga’s old town in comparison but still has some lovely parts that are worth a look in. It was getting dark by the time we got there so we didn’t get so see that much of it.
National Museum of Estonia: 100%, definitely go here. Its one of THE best museums I have ever been to. It costs €14 to get in which is a little pricey but worth it. For one thing its huge but also it has so many different objects, displayed in really well thought out ways. Top tip though: get one of the key cards that translates displays into English (or your home language) when you go in. We didn’t get given one when we went in and were super confused most of the time we were in there.
Upside Down House: This is just a bit of fun really. Well, really fun. We went right at the end of the day and had the place to ourselves. Its right next to the National Museum and its literally a house built upside down, with furniture stuck to the ceiling. It does make you feel a little motion sick but thats part of the fun.
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DAY 3 – TARTU/TALLINN
We really enjoyed our time in Tallinn – it was after a day of walking around Estonia’s parks (Lahemaa and Lake Endla) so we were quite tired but Tallinn was worth the effort to walk around. It was a shame that the temperature dropped a little but it only rained once we had gone inside for dinner at Kompressor (a great pancake place). We did things in Tallinn in the evening once we had arrived and the next morning – you could definitely spend a lot more time here than we did.
Accommodation: It cost us £56 between us to stay at Roosikranti apartment near the old town and it worked out well for us. It had underground parking and was quite close to everything we needed.
Things we did:
Parks – Lahemaa, Lake Endla and Jagala. I’ve given a proper run down of the three amazing places in the longer, dedicated blog post but in short, they are all on the way to Tallinn from Tartu, so if you have a car its easy to stop at all three. Lahemaa and Lake Endla have boardwalks through the bogs which are magical. Best of all, they’re all free!
Old Town Tallinn – a million and one buildings, churches and streets to see. We arrived too late to go inside any of them but still really enjoyed what we did manage to get a glimpse of.
Kerhwieder Kohvicum cafe – this isn’t a huge tourist destination, its a cafe that serves hot drinks as well as alcohol, with a really nice interior and good atmosphere that is worth stopping by.
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DAY 4 – TALLINN/PARNU
The places we visited on the second morning were slightly out of the city, so we drove there before continuing on to Parnu. Parnu is a summer beach resort and we weren’t there in quite the right weather for that (it was literally snowing) but we didn’t mind that because we had booked ourselves into one of Parnu’s many spa hotels.
Accommodation: The Estonia Resort Hotel and Spa cost £78 between us for one night, which may seem like a lot more than we had been spending previously (I mean, it was) but remember this included breakfast and spa access. Its a well put together place with a good breakfast and free parking. The hotel is quite large – there are two sides to the hotel, we had to walk across the internal bridge to get to the spa but this was no issue.
Things we did:
KUMU – an amazing art gallery within the most incredible building. Its only 10 euros for a ticket and well worth it (they do also do one euro days and free days but I didn’t attend one of them – the list of those days is here). We went first thing in the morning and it was practically empty, which, for such a large building was a bit eerie at times. Imagine being in an empty Tate Modern.
Kadriorg Art Museum/Palace – Its €6.50 entry to this former palace, now art museum. As well as a collection of art, it has beautiful rooms and gardens. The gardens were a bit dilapidated when we were there but it was quite cold, I imagine its better in summer.
Spa – I’ve been to a few spas in my life but not loads. This was Hamilton’s first experience aside from the small hotel spa at the first hotel in Riga. It has a swimming pool, indoor and outdoor jacuzzis, saunas of varying heats and different types of steam rooms. It has a relaxed atmosphere and isn’t too uptight/serious. Its also very kid friendly, which may or may not be what you’re looking for.
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DAY 5 – PARNU/RIGA
Accommodation: You may have noticed we upped the price for our last hotel, well we decided to go all out for our final night and I’m so glad we did. We stayed at the five star Grand Poet by Semarah which cost us £89 for the night (between us). This meant it cost £45 each to stay in a five star hotel in a European city on a saturday night. It had amazing breakfast and a really nice swimming pool/spa area. Could not recommend this place more.
Things we did:
House of the Blackheads – Riga’s eiffel tower. You can get a tour and go inside but we were impressed enough by the outside not to be upset that we were there too late for one. Of course, free to look at!
Rooftop Bar – the original rooftop bar we wanted to go to was closed but the Radisson Blu still has a really nice one that’s worth a visit. Free to go inside!
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DAY 6 – RIGA
This was the day we flew home, so I had a wander round the city (which was very pleasant) and got some souvenirs – knitwear and black balsam, to be precise! Then went to the airport (bus/taxi are the easiest options. A bus is €2 and a taxi is around €15.)
OVERVIEW | BALTIC ROAD TRIP In April of this year, my friend Hamilton and I went on a road trip around Latvia and Estonia (well one place in Latvia and a bunch of places in Estonia).
#Baltic Road Trip#estonia#estonia road trip#latvia#latvia road trip#National Park#parnu#riga#Road trip#tallinn#tartu#Travel
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AK Monthly Recap: September 2017
I started September in Minsk, eager to visit four new European countries. I finished the month in New York, recovering after a very busy six weeks of on-and-off travel. And now I’m sitting in my apartment, totally pooped and yearning to travel like crazy while savoring all the time I have at home.
Here it is — the best of September!
Destinations Visited
Minsk, Belarus
Vilnius, Lithuania
Tallinn, Estonia
St. Petersburg, Russia
Helsinki, Finland
New York, NY, USA
Favorite Destination
St. Petersburg. It far surpassed my expectations with its beauty and grandeur.
Highlights
Visiting four new countries — including one that I thought would be quite difficult. I would really love to visit 100 countries, and being at 74 now puts that goal within reach. Also, I only have one country remaining in Europe — Cyprus!
That said, the last thing I want to be is the kind of person who lands in a capital, spends a day and a half there, and yells, “Country done!” I hate that. And I know that sounds ironic considering that I only visited one city each in Belarus, Lithuania, Estonia, and Russia. That wasn’t my intention at all for Lithuania and Estonia; see “Challenges” for why. So as I move on, I’ll be making an effort to visit more when possible.
Vilnius delighted me from the start. Coming from a tricky destination like Minsk, arriving in Vilnius felt like Scandinavia — people spoke English! There was wifi! Taxi drivers didn’t rip me off! I had a door code and could walk right into my apartment rental without having to meet the owner! But beyond that, I found Vilnius to be a beautiful and artsy city, as well as a major bargain compared to Western European capitals. One highlight was dining at Grey, where they have a Lithuanian tasting menu for just 14 EUR ($16), including beer. Thanks for the recommendation, Alex!
Tallinn entranced me with its beauty. Of the three Baltic capitals, Tallinn is easily the prettiest, and it reminded me very much of Prague. Once I left the old town, it reminded me a lot more of the Nordic cities I’ve seen, which sets it apart from the other Baltic capitals. I felt like I got to know the city much better once I headed away from the tourist zone, dining on Korean food and hanging out in coffeeshops among the locals.
The Hermitage is my new favorite museum in the world. It seriously blew me away — I could not believe the sheer level of art and beauty on display. The analogy that kept coming to mind was if the French had decided to put the art of the Louvre in Versailles instead! St. Petersburg as a whole was a delight from start to finish. It’s now one of my favorite cities in Europe! I loved the grandeur and the fashionable people.
Chill time in Helsinki. One thing I love about Helsinki is that there aren’t a ton of must-see sights — it’s a place for hanging out, drinking coffee, eating Fazer chocolate, and especially SHOPPING. I didn’t do much during my final days in Helsinki — more on that below — and it was what I needed.
Lots of fun times with friends and family in New York. Not one but two sets of college friends came to see Hamilton and I met them for eats in Hell’s Kitchen afterward. One night my sister, her boyfriend, and my friend Dave, a.k.a. the blogger behind Go Backpacking, and I competed at trivia at At the Wallace, one of my local bars, and we WON! My friend Anna from The Legendary Adventures of Anna turned 30 with a bang (and lots of wigs and jello shots), and my friend Amelia hosted a clothing swap where we brought several nice items of clothing we didn’t want anymore, swapped what we wanted, and donated the rest to Housing Works.
Also, my dad came to visit New York for the weekend! He split his visit between September and October, but I’ll share the September highlights here. First we went to see Kinky Boots on Broadway, a super-fun musical with great songs and a heartwarming message. Billy Porter has returned to play his Tony Award-winning role as Lola, and I haven’t seen an actor so perfectly suited for a role since Daveed Diggs in Hamilton. He was that good.
We also spent a lot of time uptown, hanging out at our favorite bars and restaurants in Harlem, visiting the Museum of the City of New York, and did a historical food tour with Taste Harlem. The tour in particular was awesome, the chicken and waffles from Red Rooster were rapturously good, and there was a hilarious little Australian boy on the tour named James who ran off everywhere, high-fived everyone, tried to befriend cops, and kept us all in stitches.
Challenges
A lot of things went wrong on my Europe trip. I didn’t expect that, and the challenges unfortunately ended up putting a damper on what was otherwise a very nice trip.
Minsk was a tough destination, as I wrote last month, but the most difficult part of all happened on September 1. I was planning to get to Vilnius by train, and one of my readers pointed out on Facebook that I was supposed to leave Minsk by air. Some nationalities including Americans are allowed to visit visa-free if they arrive by air and stay less than five days. That was my plan. I double-checked the official US international travel resource, travel.state.gov, and it said the same thing: arrive by air, stay less than five days. Then I checked the website for the Belarus embassy in the US and it said you had to arrive AND depart by air! Eek! Talk about a major oversight on travel.state.gov!
I found a flight to Vilnius for much later that day and booked it — thankfully, it only cost $60 and Uber exists in Minsk, so I could get a ride to the airport (the airport is WAY out of town). I actually found a cafe with wifi that didn’t require an SMS (!), so I was able to summon an Uber from there.
I am so thankful to my reader for pointing that out in the nick of time. You guys really are the best readers in the world, and part of that is because you saved me from a scary experience at the Belarus-Lithuania border!
As for other mishaps, one of my flights was cancelled in Vilnius, and my tour of Lahemaa National Park in Estonia was cancelled. I was not notified by email in either case, which irked me and wasted my time. These two incidents and having to book a late flight from Minsk meant that I lost a lot of time that I intended to spend exploring Kaunas in Lithuania and Lahemaa and Tartu in Estonia. I did not want to only visit the capital and leave. That disappointed me.
Arriving in Russia was a nightmare. Just read the post for the details. Next time I visit Russia, my passport is going to be pristine.
Finally, I dealt with anxiety during the end of my trip in Finland. I sometimes get hit with waves of of anxiety, usually brought on from stress while traveling. The first time was in Chiang Mai in 2015, when I suddenly felt so overwhelmed and suddenly doing easy things felt impossible. I even felt petrified of visiting a new restaurant. My anxiety never been quite that bad since, but it surfaces from time to time.
In Helsinki, I just felt like I was being pressured in every direction. So I did nothing. I walked around, I ate, I shoppedI met with my friend Eva. That was enough to make me feel like an overachiever. It was also pouring at Biblical levels, so I didn’t feel bad about not getting good photos.
The trains in New York have been AWFUL lately. One weekend I went to Brooklyn twice within a 24-hour period and spent about seven hours in transit total. SEVEN HOURS. To the next borough over. In other news, this is why I read as much as I do…
Most Popular Post
The Emotional Labor of Female Travel Bloggers — Required reading for both women and men.
Other Posts
How to Plan a German Christmas Market Trip — This is a trip that I think ever Europe lover should take
Visiting Russia Without a Visa on the St. Peter Line Ferry — The complete guide on how to take this unusual trip.
Vail, Colorado, Might Be Better in the Summer! — I had the best time hiking and enjoying the summer beauty!
In Kiev, a Stylish and Surprising City — Kiev was a lot of fun, even though my expectations weren’t high.
Most Popular Instagram Photo
Who knew Vilnius would get all the likes? This photo was taken in Užupis, a neighborhood in the old town that has declared itself a separate republic, not unlike Christiania in Copenhagen. For more live updates from my travels, follow me on Instagram at @adventurouskate.
What I Read This Month
Hell yes — I finally finished the Popsugar 2017 Reading Challenge! This is the second 52-book reading challenge I’ve done, and while I enjoyed it, I think it’s best an every-other-year undertaking. I went on to read several other books this month, making my tally 59 in 2017 so far.
Lately I’ve been laser-focused on reading the most noteworthy books published in 2017. By December, when all the best-of lists come out, I want to have an intimate knowledge of the best books of the year.
Pachinko by Min Jin Lee (2017) — This may be my favorite book of the year. It tells the story of four generations of a family in Korea that immigrated to Japan and all the hardships they faced. Before I read this book, I had no idea Koreans in Japan were treated so poorly. So much of this is directly analogous to how blacks were treated in the United States during Jim Crow, even though you couldn’t tell the difference between Koreans and Japanese — which really hammers home how much race is a social construct.
This novel is lush and detailed, immensely readable and easy to devour. It’s about family, and sacrifice, and destiny, but also social mobility. The characters are drawn vividly and the scenes are cinematic. I can see Sunja in the market in Osaka, struggling to sell kimchi, yelling, “Oishii!” until it all starts to click. I would love to see this become a film but I don’t have faith in Hollywood making a movie with all Asian characters.
Pachinko is now nominated for the National Book Award. If it wins, that will be two years in a row that the NBO winner was also my favorite book of the year (last year’s was Colson Whitehead’s The Underground Railroad).
A Most Wanted Man by John Le Carré (2008) — This was the final book for the reading challenge: an espionage novel. I had never read any of Le Carré’s popular spy novels, and frankly, I don’t think I will read any others. This book is very much a reflection of the post-9/11 years and the war on terror. But what bothered me the most was the overt sexism of the book.
The only primary female character, Annabel, is a passionate civil rights attorney doing everything she can to save her client, a Muslim refugee from Chechnya with a mysterious past — yet every single time she is mentioned, and every time she’s in a scene, there’s such a focus on her attractiveness, her attractiveness in spite of her lack of fashion sense (oh, thanks for throwing her a bone, Mr. Le Carré!), her romantic life, her sexuality, how apparently this 30-year-old lawyer is both attracted to the 20-year-old refugee and the 60-year-old banker. Come on. I’d love to read an espionage novel where a woman does her work, does it well, and is respected for it. Category: an espionage novel.
Wendy Darling, vol. 3: Shadow by Colleen Oakes (2017) — This is the final installment of my cousin Colleen’s YA series that tells a darker, more mature version of Peter Pan. In the first book, a teenage Wendy and her brothers soon learn that behind Peter Pan’s charisma is a manipulative, controlling, bloodthirsty villain. In the second book, Wendy makes unexpected allies and enemies. In this conclusion, she fights to save her brothers and all of Neverland — not with her body, but with her intelligence.
A lot of readers expected Wendy to come out wielding a sword in this book — but Colleen was insistent that Wendy did not need to be a warrior in order to be strong. Here’s what she wrote: “To me the best thing about being a woman is that you can be whoever the hell you want. You want to be a bad-ass, slicing your way through a kingdom? Fine. We have a need for the Dinahs, the Katniss Everdeens, and the Tris Priors of the world. But we should also be cautious about equating the worth of a character based on her physical, violent ability…A woman standing in front of Congress is as strong as a woman standing up to the bully of her child. A character can be sweet and kind and still be strong.”
I love that quote. The Wendy Darling series is my favorite of Colleen’s books so far (she’s seriously Picasso-level prolific as a writer!). I highly recommend picking it up. Start with the first book here.
Al Franken, Giant of the Senate by Al Franken (2017) — Oh ho ho, Senator Franken. I absolutely loved this book! After being elected to represent Minnesota in the Senate in 2008 by the closest margin in his state’s history, comedian Al Franken decided to turn the humor way down and focus on working hard for Minnesotans. After winning a second term and establishing himself as an effective Senator, he’s finally bringing the humor back in this new memoir.
Franken and I have very similar political views, and I most appreciated how deeply he detailed the obstruction of the GOP and showing why when people think it’s both parties that are the problem, it’s actually only one obstructing anything at any turn. But beyond that, I appreciated this book for its in-depth look at what the day-to-day of being a senator is actually like. And it is HILARIOUS, especially his entire chapter about Ted Cruz (as he says, he likes Ted Cruz more than most senators do, and he hates Ted Cruz). A lot of people are encouraging Franken to run for president, and I think he’d be great, but I actually appreciate having him as a senator — he gets so much done, and that might be the best use of his talents.
Bad Feminist: Essays by Roxane Gay (2014) — I first read Roxane Gay’s memoir Hunger this year and I fell in love with her writing — it was time to check out her bestselling essay collection. And WOW. I adored this book. The title comes from the fact that Gay tries to be as good a feminist as she can, but she knows she falls short in many ways, whether it’s that she loves misogynistic hip-hop or she sometimes fakes orgasms or even that she knows nothing about her car. But what does it even mean to be a good feminist? To just be a woman who doesn’t want to be treated like shit?
Gay’s writing is warm and friendly, and she writes from an intersectional perspective — she examines feminism through race, class, size, sexuality. I feel like she and I would be friends if we knew each other in real life (but I’m sure everyone who reads her thinks that as well). I especially enjoyed the essays she wrote about pop culture, on everything from The Hunger Games to Chris Brown to Django Unchained to competitive Scrabble.
Also worth mentioning? Gay said in an interview that her favorite book of the year was Min Jin Lee’s Pachinko as well!
The Worrier’s Guide to the End of the World by Torre DeRoche (2017) — My friend Torre’s first book, Love With a Chance of Drowning, was an uplifting story about falling in love with a handsome man and facing her fears to sail across the Pacific with him. Well. Not long after, her father became terminally ill, her boyfriend couldn’t handle it and broke up with her (and told her she never would have written a book without his help — I wanted to smack him when I heard that!), and her father passed away. Meanwhile, Torre was still doing publicity for Love and having to answer questions like, “So when are you two getting married?” How awful.
So she met a friend named Masha and decided to join her on two pilgrimages, one in Italy, one in India. They became like platonic soulmates as they traveled across countries on foot, having misadventures and trying to find meaning in facing your fears and moving on after loss, and trying to figure life out. I felt so hard for her throughout the book and laughed at their quirkier mishaps. This book was sweet and kind, and it really made me want to do a pilgrimage of my own. I’ve wanted to do the Camino de Santiago since long before the blog existed; I should really get to planning that!
The Incest Diary by Anonymous (2017) — This is not the kind of book I would ordinarily seek out, but it had a lot of buzz this year, so I decided to give it a look. This memoir is written by a published female author who is choosing to remain anonymous. Her father began sexually abusing her when she was a very young child, and the abuse continued through her young adulthood. What makes this book different is that the author wanted the abuse, and her father, as she became older.
This book was extremely difficult to read. That’s probably the most that I should say about it. As troubling and horrific as it was, I absolutely loved the author’s writing style and descriptions.
Little Fires Everywhere by Celeste Ng (2017) — I read Ng’s first novel, Everything I Never Told You, a few years ago, and got swept up into a tale of an interracial Chinese-American family living in suburban Ohio in the 1970s. The setting is similar, in the upscale town of Shaker Heights, Ohio, but the plot flips on its head — it tells the story of a perfect-seeming white family with four teenagers, the single mother and teenage daughter who move into their neighborhood, and how the characters become entwined. Then a local tries to adopt a Chinese-American baby under dubious circumstances and the trial and scandal tear the town and characters apart.
I loved this book, the characters, and the mythical setting of the perfectly planned community of Shaker Heights. My favorite thing about this book is that Ng showcased a character who is white and thinks she’s woke as hell (though the story takes place in the late 90s, not today), renting her duplex to people of color, donating to charity and people in need, protesting war, thinking she’s not racist at all — until it’s time to actually put herself on the line, and she fails people of color at every turn. It’s searing — and a worthwhile read.
What I Watched This Month
Jerry Seinfeld has a new special on Netflix called Jerry Before Seinfeld. It’s a comedy special that looks back at how Seinfeld began his stand-up career in the late 1970s. Back then, stand-up comedy was in its nascent stage.
I expected to laugh, but I didn’t expect to relate to it so much. Like Seinfeld, I launched a career for myself in a brand new creative field where most people didn’t believe it was possible to earn money. “You can get paid to blog about travel?” isn’t far off from “You can get paid to tell jokes?” At one point, he said, “If I earn enough money for a loaf of bread each week, I’ll be fine,” and that hit me hard — that was me in 2010 and 2011! Only it was, “All I need to make is $1000 a month and I’ll get by fine in Southeast Asia.”
If you enjoy this special, I highly recommend reading Born Standing Up by Steve Martin, a memoir of his stand-up years, which dovetails a lot with Seinfeld’s experience. Martin’s writing is not what you expect — it’s gentle, ethereal, exquisite. I consider Born Standing Up one of the best memoirs I’ve ever read and Seinfeld considers it one of the best books ever written about comedy and being a comedian.
Image: Ryan McKee
Coming Up in October 2017
I’m going to Tybee Island! Tybee is off the coast of Savannah and I’ve often pointed out that you can easily do a side trip to this getaway, but I’ve never done so myself. I’m excited to have three days to explore this island — and to have one last beach getaway before winter.
While Tybee did experience some flooding during Hurricane Irma, they are open for business and eager to welcome visitors!
Those are the only solid travel plans I have for the month. I do, however, plan on going crazy for HALLOWEEN! It’s my favorite holiday but I’ve missed the last several Halloweens, so I want to make up for it this year. I plan to visit multiple dog costume parades (Tomkins Square on the 21st and my neighborhood, Hamilton Heights, on the 28th), head upstate to the Great Jack-o-Lantern Blaze in Croton-on-Hudson, and I’d love to attend the legendary parade in the Village! My costume? I think it’s time to dress up as my childhood idol, Carmen Sandiego.
Any suggestions for Tybee — or Halloween in New York? Let me know!
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Knight House Hostel | Tallinn
One of the reasons in choosing Knight House Hostel is the location! It is in Tallinn’s Old Town with only ten rooms. The few rooms and the shoes off policy drew me to this hostel. You wouldn’t think shoes off policy would draw anyone to a hostel, but it came across as being home. Where else would you take your shoes off but at home. To me, this hostel came across as being home; a home away from home while in another country.
Location
I couldn’t have picked a more perfect location if I tried. It was easy to get here. Then again, I did take a taxi from the airport to the hostel upon arriving at night. Still, I don’t think it would have been confusing or difficult to get here during the daytime either. My suggestion to anyone arriving at night is to take the taxi to the hostel or wherever you will be staying since it takes the guesswork out of trying to find your way around the city.
Upon arriving at night, I waited until morning to acclimate myself to the area. I found out I was right across the street from Niguliste Church and that Old Town was literally around the corner from where I was staying. Old Town would be one of the reasons I would recommend Knight House to anyone because of its picturesque town Centre and cobblestone streets. Everything is easily accessible from the hostel which makes it the perfect place to stay if you decide to visit Tallinn.
Rooms
I chose a private room for my stay therefore I can’t tell you anything about the shared rooms that are available. If you know anything about me and my travels, you know that I typically stay in a shared room because it is a great way to meet people if you are traveling solo. For this trip, I decided I wanted my own room, so I could come back to it during the day and kick back for a bit before heading back out to see more sights.
I highly recommend the private room because it had that cozy feel to it; its own table and chair along with another small table with doors so you could put your clothes inside of during the duration of your stay. A bonus was the bed was comfortable because some places have beds that are hard as a rock and very uncomfortable to sleep in after a day out sightseeing. There was even a window to look out of though there wasn’t much to see since it looked out over a small courtyard (I was on the ground floor; first floor for those of us from the states). I think there were a couple of times I saw a car parked right outside my window.
I should mention the private room is not ensuite. Therefore, you will be sharing the bathroom with everyone staying on the same floor as you. Should I mention there are only two toilers on the floor where I stayed taking care of at least five rooms. Two showers are located on the top level.
Facilities
The facilities were great; bathrooms on both floors along with a couple of showers on the top floor. Though I wasn’t a fan of how the showers were set up. You literally walked into the room and there was a sink and then you opened the shower stall with nowhere to hang your towel or clothes. That is one thing that should be changed and that would be adding some sort of hook to hang your things while taking a shower. I will admit the water pressure was great; not having to wait for hot water and you didn’t have to worry about the water becoming cold while taking a shower.
Besides the showers/bathrooms, the rest of the facilities were nice. Loved the kitchen where it felt inviting especially with the balcony that was right there as you walked into the kitchen. I would have loved to have gone out on the balcony, but wouldn’t you know it, the weather was uncooperative and rained almost the entire time I was there. Breakfast was included but you had to be there within certain hours to enjoy it. Pancakes were on offer the entire time I was staying there; stayed one week. There wasn’t much of a reception since it was off the kitchen area and what I would consider the living room per se.
Safety was top-notch. You are given keys upon check-in. One key for the front door, one for your room and a passcode to get into the building itself after using the key for the front door. Security cameras are in what you would call the reception area since I was able to see them as I stopped by to check on my tour. It made me feel safe knowing the staff could keep an eye on who was coming and going from the hostel.
Atmosphere
It felt very laid-back and catered to all walks of life; solo travelers, couples and families. There was a lounge area off reception where you could sit on the couch and chill. Off from reception were a couple of computers for your use… Not sure what activities were offered except for the tour I was able to book from the hostel and pick up from another one within five minutes’ walk from Knight House Hostel.
The Staff
The staff were very helpful especially in canceling my shared room for the last night and procuring me a private room. Though I couldn’t stay in the same room, they made the switch to the other room quick and painless. Besides helping me with my accommodation, they helped with one of the tours they offered. I wasn’t planning on taking any tours while in Tallinn, but I guess I was in the right place at the right time; the kitchen as it were. One of the staff members asked if I wanted to take a tour to Lahemaa National Park. I thought about it and decided to take the tour. Best decision ever and so glad the staff member mentioned it to me and signed me up for the tour. Many hostels do offer tours of some type and I highly recommend taking one of them.
Summary
Knight House Hostel was the perfect hostel for me; smack dab in the middle of everything with Old Town within walking distance. A bonus for me is that I could walk everywhere I needed to go without needing to take public transportation. The hostel was perfect for me though I would make one change and that has to do with the showers. You really do need some sort of hook or place to put your clothes as you are taking a shower but that is a minor detail in the scheme of things. Don’t take my word for it; check out this hostel if you ever make your way to Tallinn.
More Info
Check out their website if you would like more information on Knight House Hostel or want to book your stay here.
Address: Ruutli 16, 10130 Tallinn, Estonia Phone: +372 6311444 Price: Subject to change
Photos courtesy of She Loves to Travel (Me)
Disclaimer – I was not compensated by Knight House Hostel for this review.This is solely my own opinion/experience in staying here.
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