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ms-demeanor · 2 years ago

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So i do have trouble running anything in my lap, but it is old and very basic but I can't really get a new one, how do i learn how to change its RAM, battery and anything that could make it perform better?

So I actually have a post that's a basic explainer on this kind of stuff, but here's my specific steps for figuring out if your computer can take more RAM, what kind of RAM it takes, and if/how you can install it.

If you're in a hurry or this entire thing looks intimidating, scroll down to the section with the pink text for a quick and dirty way to find what you're looking for that I don't wholly endorse because there are sometimes errors with this process.

This is literally my job, so while this guide won't cover all contingencies it is the basic process that I do every time I need to source upgrades for a computer.

How to Find RAM for your computer:

Step One: Identify the model of your computer. This is usually visible in a sticker with a barcode on the back of the tower or on the bottom of a laptop. If you aren't sure, you can search "how to find model number of [Samsung laptop][HP desktop][etc.]" I'm going to use a Lenovo M710e as my example here, because it was the computer I had to find RAM for yesterday.

So, the ThinkCentre M710e is the product line and the model/product number is 10UR001JUS. The product number gives us the information about the specific configuration of that computer when it was sold, while the product line gives us the general information about configurations that were produced as part of this line. So for example, all M710e desktops will accept the same RAM technology, but the 10UR001JUS specifically came with 2x4GB RAM modules while another line might have come with 1x8GB RAM installed.

GENERALLY SPEAKING it is better for you to work from your product ID/product number/model number and not from the product line.

Step Two: Find out what memory technology your computer uses, what's installed, and what the max your computer will accept is. Most manufacturers will have spec sheets, so if you search the part/product number you will likely see a link from the manufacturer for the specifications of that device. Here's the one for this computer:

So this tells me that the computer has 8GB total memory in 2 modules of DDR4 RAM with a speed of 2400 Mhz. When I am shopping for RAM the important numbers here are DDR4 and 2400. BUT this does not tell me how much RAM the computer can take or what the physical format of that RAM is, so I need to look a little more, which I do by searching "[model number] specifications," which brings me to a Newegg page that has more information about the specs:

This shows me that the computer has 8GB of DDR4 2400 RAM installed in 2 slots. It shows that the computer only has two slots, and it shows me that the maximum RAM for the computer is 32GB. What this means is that if I want to upgrade the RAM I would need to remove a module from at least one of the slots.

RAM tends to come in 4GB, 8GB, 16GB, and 32GB modules. If I wanted to increase the RAM in this computer for the least amount of money possible, I would add one 8GB module, and that would help the computer a lot, taking it from 8GB to 12GB. BUT if I wanted a higher performance for just a little bit more money, I'd replace both 4GB modules with 8GB modules. RAM is happier and works better when the modules in the computer match, so what I'd do is look for 2 8GB modules that are faster than 2400mhz.

Step Three: because I'm me and I was the one who initially ordered this computer five years ago and I have RAM upgrades for this model in my order history, this is where I would stop. But if it was for a computer that I wasn't familiar with, this is where I would check my work. I do this by going to the Crucial Memory tool:

I'd click on "upgrade my computer" and I'd use the "upgrade finder" option.

If you are searching for a RAM upgrade on the computer that you are currently using, you can use the Crucial Scanner tool which will read the specifications of your system and take you to recommended upgrades that Crucial thinks are compatible with your system. I do not 100% endorse doing this, and if you do use this option I recommend checking Crucial's work because I've ordered RAM on Crucial's recommendation in the past and then found that it was incompatible when we went to install.

But, like I said, I use the upgrade finder option. There are a TON of computers listed in this, so once you go through manufacturer (lenovo, in this example) and product line (for crucial, "product line" here means "thinkcentre") I'll use ctrl+F with "M710e" to find the actual product, because scrolling though this bullshit is for chumps:

That takes you to a page with what should be your computer's specs and recommendations for product upgrades:

As I scroll through, looking for 16GB upgrades, I notice that all the RAM listed is 288 pin, which is the correct size for this computer. RAM tends to come in two physical formats for consumers, Desktop RAM and Laptop RAM. Desktop RAM is longer, Laptop RAM is shorter. There are some more complicated layers to that, but what it means is that I need to match the RAM in my search to the format the computer uses.

So let's say that I want to upgrade my computer here and I decide that I want to go with the 3200 speed. So instead of buying from Crucial (which you could do if you wanted to) I decide to shop around. If I search for "16GB DDR4-3200" on Amazon here's what I get:

One of those is 288 pin and will fit in desktops, the other is 260 pin and will fit in laptops or very small form factor desktops. You need to make sure, either by checking the specifications from the manufacturer or on a ram compatibility site or PC part picker, that you are getting the correct physical format in addition to the correct size/technology/speed.

Step Four: Shop around. I prefer not to buy from Amazon when I can help it, and I like seeing what deals I can get. You *do* have the option of clicking "where to buy" on Crucial and there are usually several choices of where to get that specific Crucial part number, but I want to see if there are more generic options, or options from other brands I like.

A newegg search shows me an A-tech 16GB kit with the specs I'm looking for, but at a higher price than Crucial. Poking around a few places doesn't show me any better deals than Crucial, so I go back over to the crucial site, click on "where to buy" for the product I want, and choose to get it from B&H because it's not amazon and I've got an account there.

Step Five: Figure out how to put the RAM inside of your computer. The easiest way to do this is usually to check IFixIt.com, a website designed to show people how to fix their computers.

IFixIt has guides for some types of ThinkCentres but not an M710e. I can check out the M72e, because that's a pretty similar model, but then it turns out the page is a stub. So I search "how to upgrade RAM in Lenovo M710e" and I found the user manual, which has an diagram of the internal parts of the computer, an exploded view of where everything goes, and a section on replacing RAM modules.

Replacing RAM on most desktops is pretty simple, and if you haven't done it and this set of diagrams doesn't give you much information, I really recommend watching some videos from Paul's Hardware that show you how to handle computer components and identify what parts of a computer you're looking at.

Replacing RAM on laptops is usually a bit more complicated than on desktops. But sometimes it's even easier (one of my computers just had a little door on the bottom where you could add RAM if you needed to). Regardless, the principles are the same - there is a slot on the motherboard for you to put RAM in. Watch videos or look at tutorials for how to open up various kinds of computers and see if you're comfortable replicating those steps.

SOME CAVEATS:

Sometimes you can't add or replace RAM. Sometimes RAM is soldered directly on the motherboard. That should be noted somewhere in the manufacturer specifications.

Sometimes computers are more of a pain in the ass to upgrade than they're worth. Most ultra-slim laptops are difficult to get into and most all-in-ones are a *nightmare* to get into. Watch videos of people working on computers similar to yours before you buy anything to figure out if you're even going to be able to get into the damned thing.

On older laptops replacing the battery is very easy, on newer ones it's getting more difficult. Use the same process of identifying your computer model number to look up compatible batteries, then look up how to replace batteries. Sometimes they're just inaccessible and difficult to get at, and sometimes you literally don't even need tools besides your thumbs.

Anyway. That was kind of a lot. I hope it made sense. Check out the linked post at the beginning for tips on performance improvements outside of hardware upgrades, and good luck.

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murfeelee · 10 months ago

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@themaresnest-dumblr replied to your post “It's Finally Winter Break! I'm FREE!”:

Okay, the first question is tell us all about the computer, the second is what sodding processor does it use that will allow you to play Sims 3? Like the graphic btw, it looks like a They Might Be Giants video.

I actually haven't been able to install/play TS3 at ALL! I've never had a problem running TS3 before, so this sucks!

At first I thought it was the EA App effing up--I had it install the base game and all the EPs at once, but that didn't work, so I figured OK, let me uninstall everything and ONLY install the base game. That FINALLY got the TS3 Folder to appear in Documents, and the Launcher finally loaded. But every time I click Play, it instantly crashes back to the EA App. I have zero mods or Store CC installed or anything. And the "Repair" button on the EA App appears to do EFF ALL, so.... *whimpers*

I never had a laptop with Nvidia and different V-RAM/GPU components, so I'm a fish out of water as far as specs go with this new PC, since my dinosaurs ran TS3 just fine, LOL. Before this I was on a Win10 8GB Dell laptop (2017-2023), and before that I was on a 4GB Vista HP laptop (2009-2017).

This new laptop is a Win11 Asus--it runs Baldur's Gate 3 (barely, LOL, even my Steam Deck is crying), so I have no clue why it can't run TS3:

Processor 13th Gen Intel(R) Core(TM) i9-13900H, 2600 Mhz, 14 Core(s), 20 Logical Processor(s). Nvidia GeForce RTX 3050 6GB Laptop GPU.

I made an Error Report that I sent to EA, so hopefully they tell me something, otherwise I'm screwed.

#pc problems #the sims 3 #murf is a derp #ea you suck #electronic arts #more like electronic farts #simmer problems

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glumby · 10 months ago

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if you have an HP spectre laptop, DON'T update to windows 11 because the camera will no longer work anymore 😐 (happened to me too)

#i love tech companies sooo much 😁😁😁#never asked for a dumbass update

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snapthistiger · 1 year ago

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new HP computer delivery saga

ordered a new HP computer so i would have 1 computer with the new Microsoft windows 11. not sure if that was necessary but knowing that windows 10 would sunset on my current computer was bothering me.

July 29, 2023 - picked out a laptop computer on HP.com and placed order, paying with credit card

July 31, 2023 - HP ships the new laptop by FedEx ground. i get notification from HP and a tracking link to FedEx that says the computer will be delivered on August 3, 2023

August 2, 2023 - FedEx tracking says the computer is out for delivery. around 1030am, i am in my living room and i see the FedEx truck stop in front of my house. i can see the driver look at his papers and go in the back of the truck and then come back to the papers and back into the truck. after a few minutes, he drives away and no delivery is made.

August 3, 2023 - the FedEx status changes from out for delivery to Pending

August 4, 2023 - i contact FedEx and ask about the delivery status which still shows Pending. FedEx starts an investigation and gives me a case number. FedEx requests information from me on the package so i send them a screenshot of the info from the HP web site.

August 4, 2023 - i call HP customer service to see if they have leverage with FedEx to find the package. HP tells me to wait until after August 8 and that the package will be considered late at that point

August 7, 2023 - i get a phone call from FedEx asking me about the package. the investigator tells me they are following up with the driver.

August 8, 2023 - i get an email from FedEx stating that they can't find the package.

August 9, 2023 - i call HP and they open an investigation and i provide the information from FedEx on their investigation. HP gave me an order number for a new computer. HP tells me the new computer should ship soon.

August 14, 2023 - i call HP because i have not received info on new computer shipment. the supervisor tells me that FedEx is still trying to find the 1st shipment. i go through my story with her and tell her that i feel that i'm being penalized for FedEx's error. i have done everything correct and i don't have my computer. she tells me she will follow up with FedEx and get my replacement computer on its way. she calls me back in 30 minutes and leaves a voicemail that my computer will be shipped today and delivered by August 16, 2023. late in the evening, i receive shipment text message from HP and from FedEx.

August 15, 2023 - new computer is delivered. i'm exhausted but happy to finally receive it.

#fedex delivery issues

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datrb · 6 months ago

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Dat, when you draw what device you normally use? Do you use a stylus? Finger drawing? Also, do you prefer traditional or digital art better?

dare i even ponder the preferred workplace?

For digital art i prefer to use a drawing tablet, as they have the best accuracy in terms of pressure sencitivity, and over the years it became one of if not the most important thing for me personally.

For the past, i think, 5 years i used an XP-Pen artist 12 tablet, but it broke on me around a month ago, due to incompatability with my new laptop. (which is one of the reasons i opened a boosty page. I need a new tablet)

Thankfully, my new laptop was bought with a thought of me having to constantly carry it around and make notes in college, so i specifically got myself a transformer laptop with a touch screen and stylus support, which is what i use for art right now. It's not as comfortable as a tablet, due to the lack of quick acess buttons and... less than perfect pressure sensitvity, not even talking about stylus often just lagging to the point of being unusable, but i make it work. Not that i have a lot of choice.

In terms of digital vs traditional... It depends on what we're talking about. If we talk character design, or quick doodles - i'll take traditional any day. But in terms of full finished works digital takes the cake. It's really a matter of what fits better for a specific art piece and what you want to see in the end.

Traditional art for me personally is grounds for experementation and character work. Throwing around ideas with quick 5 minute doodles. I feel a lot less pressure when i use pencil and paper. Also can't deny being a fan of how writing or drawing on paper feels.

But digital allows for a lot more control over the entire process due to having no restrictions in regards to the amount of errors and fixes you can make, and unlimited range of colour you can use for your art. Digital allows me to refine the smallest of details achieving works that feel polished to the best degree. Even if they tend to take anywhere from 5 to 40+ hours at a time.

Devices and tools i used throughout my life:

Drawing tablets and styluses:

Wacom Bamboo Pen&Touch

XP-Pen Star 06

XP-Pen Artist 12 1st gen

In future i want to buy XP-Pen Artist Pro 16 2nd gen

Lenovo Stylus (it doesn't really have a proper name as far as i know)

ASUS Pen 2.0

Laptops:

HP Pavilion dv6 (Got it when it was already 4 years in use, (ab)used it for 8 years and now my dad tries to make a use of it as well. It needed a few minor repairs and a hard drive replacement throuhgout the years, but it still goes strong to this day)

Lenovo IdeaPad Flex 5 (broke on me even before the warranty ran out and resulted in me loosing all of my data)

(Current one) ASUS Zenbook 14 Flip OLED. Specifically the UP3404V model (excluding occasional stylus lag, which is a given if you have an active stylus that works via bluetooth, this laptop haven't failed me once so far and is admittedly everything i wanted and more from a device that i use primarily for work with occasional light gaming)

About workplace... Well, for me personally there is no better workplace than my desk as i spent a ton of time optimizing it as best i can. But if we talk in general, i would always take a table of any kind over anything else. Even the type of chair doesn't matter it's more of having something to put what i work with on so it can sit at a reasonable level and i won't have to become a shrimp to just look at the screen. But i can also make any type of environment work, it's not that bit of a deal.

#dat answers

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sindhumnart · 1 month ago

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BIG UPDATE!

After thinking over it for several months I've finally decided to transition from the traditional watercolor-on-paper medium to iPad for my Webtoon canvas comic strip Shambhavi. It was a really big decision to make. I was so reluctant to move away from it cos I felt though the medium is very messy and high maintenance, I loved the beautiful flaws it used to create in the process which made the artwork look so imperfect yet so satisfying somehow.

The process itself was so time consuming. Drawing and planning layouts, rough sketches followed by neat linework using my pentel brush pen, coloring using my 3 different watercolor palettes (Camlin, Doms and Camel, all basic brands - I prefer using cakes over tubes) final details in colour pencils, scanning using my super basic HP scanner, then erasing strokes outside the black outline, correcting small errors, adding dialogues in Photoshop, exporting as JPGs and finally publishing on the Webtoon site!

I thoroughly enjoyed every step. But cos I had to move from paper to device-1 (scanner) to device-2 (laptop) and then publish, I had to wait for the right time to get to each of these steps which seemed very tedious.

With the new mom life & a full time job, my relationship with art has been so absent - it makes me sad. The most affected party in this whole equation is my loving Webtoon series which I'm not able to focus on at allllll. I started it almost 5 years ago when I have posted 4 episodes in one month vs now I'm posting one episode in 4 months! I've only been able to publish 58 episodes in total. My old readers have now vanished and I don't see any of their comments now, I miss it. Sigh 🙄

Hmm, but yeah let's be optimistic and try again (hehe) 👻

Also, I didn't wanna change my art style one bit. I want the transition not to feel like one. So I am planning on using the amazing watercolor brush set I downloaded this evening 😍 Woohoo! I'm excited!

It's something new I'm trying this year. I'm curious to see how it goes.

#webtoon #sindhu mn art #watercolor #comicstrip #illustration

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karlykar · 1 month ago

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jungjungan · 1 month ago

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joimood · 1 month ago

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laptopservicecentre · 2 months ago

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Finding the Best Laptop Service Center in Ranchi: A Guide to Laptop Service Center

Introduction

In today’s fast-paced digital world, laptops have become an essential tool for work, education, and leisure. When your laptop experiences issues, finding a reliable service center is crucial to ensure timely repairs and maintain productivity. If you’re in Ranchi and looking for top-notch laptop repair services, look no further than Laptop Service Center. In this blog, we will explore why Laptop Service Center is the best choice for laptop repairs, the range of services they offer, and answer some frequently asked questions about laptop servicing.

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ms-demeanor · 1 year ago

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There is someone saying this about pretty much every brand of computer in the notes.

Failure rates across the big three brands (Dell, HP, and Lenovo) have consistently been at around 5% during the warranty period (typically one year for laptops and three years for desktops) since I started buying a few thousand computers a year in 2011.

If you are considering buying a laptop and you aren't certain if it's crap or not, check for reviews/product comparisons on PCWorld, PCMag, and Tom's Hardware.

There are people in the notes saying "how could you recommend dell when they have proprietary hardware?" or "how could you recommend HP when they come loaded with bloatware?"

You know how I said at the beginning that this is literally my job?

Yeah I have bad news for you about literally every brand of computer. They all come with some kind of bloatware these days. They all come with hardware bullshit, though some hardware bullshit is worse than others and some hardware bullshit impacts some populations more than others (for example: gamers and heavy users care a lot about Dell's processor throttling with third-party chargers. People who just use the browser and an office suite don't care because the don't notice. We sell third party chargers to dell users all the fucking time and none of them have noticed because as it turns out most people use their computers for email and watching cat videos and those don't actually require a shitload of processing power).

Fuck. As to bloatware, Windows 10 installed like eight candy crush games on my last laptop as well as a new disney game I had to uninstall with every major update. That's not a manufacturer problem, that's a "the entire ecosystem is fucked and the only way to fix it is linux" problem but this is a post for people who want to spend < $500 on a laptop and who don't know what RAM is so this is not the post where I'm making actual suggestions for how to fix things (keep every computer you own for as long as possible, upgrading the hardware yourself every 3-5 years, and install linux on every machine that doesn't 100% have to be windows for software/professional/etc. reasons)

But yeah. With every single computer you get there's going to be about a 1-in-20 chance *at least* that it's going to fail in the first year. This is because computers are complicated machines assembled by other complicated machines out of components that want to explode at the slightest provocation and hate humidity almost as much as they hate power fluctuations and almost as much as they love randomly springing bugs that take dozens of hours to chase down. For as cheap and as complicated as computers are, these are actually pretty good numbers.

But also it's not terribly unusual for your laptop to have the keyboard directly over the drive if for no reason other than the fact that the keyboard is a huge part of the footprint of your laptop. Often drives are along the sides of the touchpad, but not always, and if there's room for a secondary drive it will likely be under the keyboard. But also nothing should have been able to fall through the bottom of the keyboard into any other components because the keyboard on laptops looks like this from underneath (outlined in yellow):

there's an impenetrable membrane of metal where all the wires and sensors and junk are so that the keyboard will actually read the key presses. (The pink outline is the drive in this computer but in newer laptops that's MUCH more likely to be where you'd find the battery because most laptops don't have external batteries anymore, they're totally enclosed within the case)

So I'm not sure who diagnosed your drive errors, but also hard drives inside computers look like this:

There's nowhere for dust to fall *into* either. These things are pretty well sealed specifically because dust can fuck with them, which is why it's not a big deal to shove them just any old where inside a computer case as long as you protect them from drop damage.

However a lot of laptops do have issues with dust and stuff clogging them up inside. The primary causes of this tend to be: eating with your computer in your lap, using your computer on soft surfaces (i know they're called laptops but your computer is going to operate MUCH MUCH better if you only use it on hard surfaces), owning pets, and smoking around your computer. This often manifests as overheating and is pretty simple to resolve by just opening the case and blowing out the dust.

If I was looking at a computer that had had 4 drive failures after replacing the drive I'd be looking at either the OS (windows 10 had a lot of massive write error issues that could be persistent and difficult to resolve) or a motherboard problem (wiring is funky for some reason and you just have to write it off), but I'm not sure what kind of drive failures you were having and obviously I can't diagnose this after the fact, I'm just saying that it probably wasn't a design flaw that let dust fall through the keyboard into the drive that was causing your problem.

(the laggy-from-the-start alienware, well, I'd want to know what specs you got the device with and what you were trying to run on it - avoiding lagginess from the start for basic users is the point of this post but those standards are different when you start talking about gaming machines, which are NOT my wheelhouse).

(also everybody uses the cheapest hardware they can get, dell just does that and then sticks their own logo on it - it's all the same guts, which is pretty easy to tell because there are a vanishingly small number of plants that make the components; you open up 80% of computers with an HDD in the last ten years and you're going to find a SeaGate or a Western Digital drive no matter whose name is on the case)

Like. I just want to go through the notes and take everyone's hand and look deeply into their eyes and tell them the truth: ALL COMPUTERS ARE BAD. (POSSIBLY and RECENTLY excepting FrameWork).

Everyone buys shit parts. The assembly is all done in the cheapest way possible. Everyone cares about volume over quality. None of these companies care about you or customer service and all of them want to do whatever they can to bump up sales numbers or upsell people on upgrades. The fact that you were able to send the computer into the manufacturer for repairs four times and get it back three times with some work ostensibly done indicates that you had an unusually good service plan and were getting unusually good service (a lot of manufacturers will do like two repairs to the same part and then just swap out the motherboard as a 'nuke it from orbit' solution so the fact that you still had anyone troubleshooting with you on round 4 was remarkable). (Though I do hope they paid you out in some way for your mislabeled computer and if anyone wants tips on how to yell about support cases let me know, that is ALSO literally my job).

Anyway. Yeah. Computers bad. The reason I named the big three is because they're the ones who usually have decent service plans available and have more easily findable parts because they make so fucking many of them. I can find you a bezel for a 3-year-old Dell XPS. If you ask me to find a bezel for a 3-year-old acer there's a decent chance that I'll have to buy a whole actual computer on Ebay to salvage the bezel. (a common problem that we have with the acer/asus computers is that they tend to be made of shittier plastic and the hinges break and then people come in thinking that it's a hinge, how much can it be michael, ten dollars? and then find out that in order to fix their shitty hinge we have to buy an entire second laptop used for $200 and hope that the hinges on that hunk of shit don't have similar wear, which they almost certainly do, which is why I'm fucking begging people to buy the $500 piece of junk with the aluminum case instead of the $300 heap of shit in the plastic case)

ANYWAY. YEAH. COMPUTERS BAD (sorry i just finished a final project and am avoiding my final exam and I am TIRED).

Generally speaking, computers bad.

But the only computer that has shit hardware that's not worth the cost 100% of the time and that is actively and intentionally hostile to user repairs in a way that Dell and HP could only dream of is Apple.

So You Need To Buy A Computer But You Don't Know What Specs Are Good These Days

Hi.

This is literally my job.

Lots of people are buying computers for school right now or are replacing computers as their five-year-old college laptop craps out so here's the standard specs you should be looking for in a (windows) computer purchase in August 2023.

PROCESSOR

Intel i5 (no older than 10th Gen)

Ryzen 7

You can get away with a Ryzen 5 but an intel i3 should be an absolute last resort. You want at least an intel i5 or a Ryzen 7 processor. The current generation of intel processors is 13, but anything 10 or newer is perfectly fine. DO NOT get a higher performance line with an older generation; a 13th gen i5 is better than an 8th gen i7. (Unfortunately I don't know enough about ryzens to tell you which generation is the earliest you should get, but staying within 3 generations is a good rule of thumb)

RAM

8GB absolute minimum

If you don't have at least 8GB RAM on a modern computer it's going to be very, very slow. Ideally you want a computer with at least 16GB, and it's a good idea to get a computer that will let you add or swap RAM down the line (nearly all desktops will let you do this, for laptops you need to check the specs for Memory and see how many slots there are and how many slots are available; laptops with soldered RAM cannot have the memory upgraded - this is common in very slim laptops)

STORAGE

256GB SSD

Computers mostly come with SSDs these days; SSDs are faster than HDDs but typically have lower storage for the same price. That being said: SSDs are coming down in price and if you're installing your own drive you can easily upgrade the size for a low cost. Unfortunately that doesn't do anything for you for the initial purchase.

A lot of cheaper laptops will have a 128GB SSD and, because a lot of stuff is stored in the cloud these days, that can be functional. I still recommend getting a bit more storage than that because it's nice if you can store your music and documents and photos on your device instead of on the cloud. You want to be able to access your files even if you don't have internet access.

But don't get a computer with a big HDD instead of getting a computer with a small SSD. The difference in speed is noticeable.

SCREEN (laptop specific)

Personally I find that touchscreens have a negative impact on battery life and are easier to fuck up than standard screens. They are also harder to replace if they get broken. I do not recommend getting a touch screen unless you absolutely have to.

A lot of college students especially tend to look for the biggest laptop screen possible; don't do that. It's a pain in the ass to carry a 17" laptop around campus and with the way that everything is so thin these days it's easier to damage a 17" screen than a 14" screen.

On the other end of that: laptops with 13" screens tend to be very slim devices that are glued shut and impossible to work on or upgrade.

Your best bet (for both functionality and price) is either a 14" or a 15.6" screen. If you absolutely positively need to have a 10-key keyboard on your laptop, get the 15.6". If you need something portable more than you need 10-key, get a 14"

FORM FACTOR (desktop specific)

If you purchase an all-in-one desktop computer I will begin manifesting in your house physically. All-in-ones take away every advantage desktops have in terms of upgradeability and maintenance; they are expensive and difficult to repair and usually not worth the cost of disassembling to upgrade.

There are about four standard sizes of desktop PC: All-in-One (the size of a monitor with no other footprint), Tower (Big! probably at least two feet long in two directions), Small Form Factor Tower (Very moderate - about the size of a large shoebox), and Mini/Micro/Tiny (Small! about the size of a small hardcover book).

If you are concerned about space you are much better off getting a MicroPC and a bracket to put it on your monitor than you are getting an all-in-one. This will be about a million percent easier to work on than an all-in-one and this way if your monitor dies your computer is still functional.

Small form factor towers and towers are the easiest to work on and upgrade; if you need a burly graphics card you need to get a full size tower, but for everything else a small form factor tower will be fine. Most of our business sales are SFF towers and MicroPCs, the only time we get something larger is if we have to put a $700 graphics card in it. SFF towers will accept small graphics cards and can handle upgrades to the power supply; MicroPCs can only have the RAM and SSD upgraded and don't have room for any other components or their own internal power supply.

WARRANTY

Most desktops come with either a 1 or 3 year warranty; either of these is fine and if you want to upgrade a 1 year to a 3 year that is also fine. I've generally found that if something is going to do a warranty failure on desktop it's going to do it the first year, so you don't get a hell of a lot of added mileage out of an extended warranty but it doesn't hurt and sometimes pays off to do a 3-year.

Laptops are a different story. Laptops mostly come with a 1-year warranty and what I recommend everyone does for every laptop that will allow it is to upgrade that to the longest warranty you can get with added drop/damage protection. The most common question our customers have about laptops is if we can replace a screen and the answer is usually "yes, but it's going to be expensive." If you're purchasing a low-end laptop, the parts and labor for replacing a screen can easily cost more than half the price of a new laptop. HOWEVER, the way that most screens get broken is by getting dropped. So if you have a warranty with drop protection, you just send that sucker back to the factory and they fix it for you.

So, if it is at all possible, check if the manufacturer of a laptop you're looking at has a warranty option with drop protection. Then, within 30 days (though ideally on the first day you get it) of owning your laptop, go to the manufacturer site, register your serial number, and upgrade the warranty. If you can't afford a 3-year upgrade at once set a reminder for yourself to annually renew. But get that drop protection, especially if you are a college student or if you've got kids.

And never, ever put pens or pencils on your laptop keyboard. I've seen people ruin thousand dollar, brand-new laptops that they can't afford to fix because they closed the screen on a ten cent pencil. Keep liquids away from them too.

LIFESPAN

There's a reasonable chance that any computer you buy today will still be able to turn on and run a program or two in ten years. That does not mean that it is "functional."

At my office we estimate that the functional lifespan of desktops is 5-7 years and the functional lifespan of laptops is 3-5 years. Laptops get more wear and tear than desktops and desktops are easier to upgrade to keep them running. At 5 years for desktops and 3 years for laptops you should look at upgrading the RAM in the device and possibly consider replacing the SSD with a new (possibly larger) model, because SSDs and HDDs don't last forever.

COST

This means that you should think of your computers as an annual investment rather than as a one-time purchase. It is more worthwhile to pay $700 for a laptop that will work well for five years than it is to pay $300 for a laptop that will be outdated and slow in one year (which is what will happen if you get an 8th gen i3 with 8GB RAM). If you are going to get a $300 laptop try to get specs as close as possible to the minimums I've laid out here.

If you have to compromise on these specs, the one that is least fixable is the processor. If you get a laptop with an i3 processor you aren't going to be able to upgrade it even if you can add more RAM or a bigger SSD. If you have to get lower specs in order to afford the device put your money into the processor and make sure that the computer has available slots for upgrade and that neither the RAM nor the SSD is soldered to the motherboard. (one easy way to check this is to search "[computer model] RAM upgrade" on youtube and see if anyone has made a video showing what the inside of the laptop looks like and how much effort it takes to replace parts)

Computers are expensive right now. This is frustrating, because historically consumer computer prices have been on a downward trend but since 2020 that trend has been all over the place. Desktop computers are quite expensive at the moment (August 2023) and decent laptops are extremely variably priced.

If you are looking for a decent, upgradeable laptop that will last you a few years, here are a couple of options that you can purchase in August 2023 that have good prices for their specs:

14" Lenovo - $670 - 11th-gen i5, 16GB RAM, and 512GB SSD

15.6" HP - $540 - 11th-gen i5, 16GB RAM, and 256GB SSD

14" Dell - $710 - 12th-gen i5, 16GB RAM, and 256GB SSD

If you are looking for a decent, affordable desktop that will last you a few years, here are a couple of options that you can purchase in August 2023 that have good prices for their specs:

SFF HP - $620 - 10th-gen i5, 16GB RAM, 1TB SSD

SFF Lenovo - $560 - Ryzen 7 5000 series, 16GB RAM, 512GB SSD

Dell Tower - $800 - 10th-gen i7, 16GB RAM, 512GB SSD

If I were going to buy any of these I'd probably get the HP laptop or the Dell Tower. The HP Laptop is actually a really good price for what it is.

Anyway happy computering.

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smithcc · 2 months ago

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HP Laptop Repair Service by VDALPH

In today’s fast-paced world, laptops are essential tools for both personal and professional activities. When a device malfunctions, it can disrupt daily tasks, cause productivity loss, and lead to significant frustration. At VDALPH, we understand the importance of a fully functional laptop, and that’s why we offer expert HP laptop repair services to get your device back in top condition.

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gadgetrepairexpert · 2 months ago

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Reliable iPad & Laptop Repair Near Me in Bracknell | Gadget Repair Expert

Introduction

In today’s digital world, our gadgets—like iPads and laptops—are essential tools for work, entertainment, and staying connected. Whether you rely on your iPad for reading, streaming, or creative projects, or need your laptop for business, productivity, or gaming, these devices are integral to our daily lives. However, technical issues can arise unexpectedly, causing inconvenience and interruptions. Finding reliable iPad and laptop repair near you in Bracknell is crucial for quick and expert solutions to keep your devices functioning smoothly.

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Both iPads and laptops are powerful, versatile devices, but they can run into issues over time. Here are some of the most common problems that users experience:

iPad Issues:

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When searching for iPad repair near me in Bracknell or laptop repair near me in Bracknell, it’s important to select a reliable and trusted repair service. Here are some tips to help you find the right repair center:

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