The Diva of Design: Elsa Peretti
“Elsa brought out all these things—the bone bracelet I remember best. Everything was so sensual, so sexy. I just loved it. It was different from anything I’d ever seen, and I’d seen a lot.” – Liza Minelli
On March 18, 2021, the design world lost an artist who was as elegant and unique as her iconic jewelry designs, when Elsa Peretti “died at her home in Sant Martí Vell, Spain…. For 50 years, her designs inspired countless women and left an indelible mark on the jewelry world”(1). She made her mark in the 1970s as many young women were rejecting traditional homemaker roles and striving for successful careers of their own instead. Elsa Peretti designs resonated with this generation of women, spurning the fussy ornamentation of their mothers’ generation, but still yearning for beauty and elegant sophistication.
Elsa Peretti at work in New York City, 1970. Photo credit: PL Gould/Images Press/Getty Images Image source.
Peretti’s Early Days
Elsa Peretti was born on May 1, 1940 in Florence, Italy to a wealthy family. Her father “Ferdinando Peretti founded Anonima Petroli Italiana (API), a large Italian oil company”(2). Young Elsa received education in Rome and Switzerland. When she was twenty-one, the strong-willed Elsa broke with her family and “as a result, she was cut off from any financial support”(3). To make her own way, she worked first as a French teacher and later as a skiing instructor in the Swiss Alps. She returned to Rome to study interior design, and eventually worked for architect Dado Torrigiani (2).
Peretti Becomes a Successful Model
In the 1960s, Elsa Peretti was drawn to the intellectual life in Barcelona and began her modeling career there. In 1968 she went to New York City on the advice of her modelling agency (3); however, she arrived in the city “with a black eye from her [former] boyfriend who opposed of the move”(1). In New York she met designer Halston “whom she met while he was still a milliner at Bergdorf Goodman”(2) and became one of the regular group of models who he favored (3). The pair would become close friends and sometimes collaborators. Their relationship has been dramatized in the recent Netflix mini-series, “Halston.”
Peretti Finds Lasting Success as a Jewelry Designer
The following year, Peretti began designing jewelry, “She created pieces for herself at first, then expanded to” friends and fashion designers she had met through her work. Her first design was a “inspired by a small bud vase found in a flea market”(2). She began designing jewelry for Halston in 1971,(2) then her work really got noticed. That same year her work appeared in Vogue Magazine, and Ms. Peretti received “the 1971 Coty Award for jewelry design. In 1972, the New York City Department store Bloomingdales “opened a dedicated Peretti boutique”(1). During this time, Peretti and Halston “were the center of a fun, clubby clique that included [designer Giorgio] Sant´Angelo, the illustrator Joe Eula, Victor Hugo (Halston’s boyfriend), designer Stephen Burrows and Andy Warhol”(3).
Elsa Peretti, Bud Vase Pendants (1969). Photographer unknown, Image source.
1974 was a milestone year in Elsa Peretti’s career. “Halston introduced her to Walter Hoving, the then CEO of Tiffany”(3). Hoving hired Ms. Peretti to design jewelry in sterling silver – “the first time Tiffany had sold jewelry in that material in 25 years”(4). Ms. Peretti’s designs were organic, sensual, and embodied a sense of fun that appealed to younger women. Since the silver designs were more affordable, “in a break from tradition, women were shopping for themselves rather than being gifted jewelry by men” (5). “But, the affordable prices never detracted from their beauty or desirability”(1).
Elsa Peretti, Bone Cuff in 18K Gold (1975). Photo credit: Tiffany & Co. Image source.
Elsa Peretti’s Iconic Work
One of Elsa Peretti’s most famous designs is the Bone Cuff, which many have compared to the cuffs worn by the comic book female superhero Wonder Woman (1). Like the Bone Cuff much of Peretti’s “minimalist, biomorphic designs were inspired by simple, natural things” 1: The Bean Pendant, The Scorpion Necklace, Open Heart, High Tide, Starfish and Snake among others. For Tiffany & Co., Ms. Peretti also designed dinnerware, pens, key rings, and ashtrays (4,6). The Thumbprint dishes and bowls make up her most successful dinnerware collection (6).
Elsa Peretti, Thumbprint Bowl in Sterling Silver (1985). Photo credit: Tiffany & Co. Image source.
In 1977 Ms. Peretti’s distinctive designs garnered her the cover of Newsweek magazine. By the end of the 1970s Ms. Peretti was Tiffany’s star designer, and “designed over thirty collections for” (6) the company. Today “Peretti’s products account for roughly 10% of Tiffany’s sales. So important is her work to Tiffany’s bottom line that they paid her 47 million plus royalties to renew her contract in 2012 for the next 20 years” (3).
Elsa Peretti’s Life in the Fast Lane
Elsa Peretti’s “personal life always grabbed attention” (4). Although never married, Ms. Peretti was in a serious relationship with photographer Hemut Newton during the 1970s. One of Newton’s most famous images is that of Ms. Peretti posing on a Manhattan apartment terrace wearing a version of a Playboy Bunny costume (2). Of course, “The costume was her idea,”(1) for a Halloween party (2).
During the late 1970s, along with designer pal Halston, Peretti was a frequent patron of Studio 54, “the storied Manhattan disco that attracted celebrities like Andy Warhol, Bianca Jagger, [and] Cher”(4). Ms. Peretti’s exploits at the club were legendary, one night after a misunderstanding with Studio 54 co-owner Steve Rubell, Peretti smashed a bottle of vodka on the floor (4).
Elsa Peretti, Snake Necklace in 18K gold (1985). Photo credit: Freeman’s Image source.
Falling Out with Designer Halston
Peretti’s alcohol and drug use, particularly cocaine, increased as the 1970s wore on, however, her partying never affected her professional work (4). To complicate matters, the more success Peretti gained, the more her strained relationship with Halston became. “Things came to a head during a… dinner at Halston’s townhouse. The night ended with Peretti throwing her sable coat from Halston into the fire”(3). Soon after this episode Peretti left New York to live and work in her adopted home of Sant Martí Vell in Catalonia, Spain (3).
Elsa Peretti’s Philathropic Work
In 1977 Elsa Perretti founded the Nando Peretti Foundation, “with the inheritance from her father, with whom she reconciled just months before his death” (4). The foundation funds projects that support the environment, social inclusion, social welfare, human rights and the rule of law, education, scientific research, and arts and cultural history (7). The organization “was renamed the Nando and Elsa Peretti Foundation” in 2015 (2).
Elsa Peretti, Bud Vase (year unknown). Photo credit: Tiffany & Co. Image source.
Elsa Peretti’s Lasting Legacy
Over the years celebrities Liza Minelli, Sophia Loren, Diana Ross, Sarah Jessica Parker, and tennis champion Maria Sharapova have worn jewelry designed by Elsa Peretti (4). “Ms. Peretti’s designs are in several permanent collections, including those of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the British Museum in London, and the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston” (4).
During her career Ms. Peretti was awarded the President’s Fellow Award by Rhode Island School of Design in 1981 and 1996 Designer of the Year by the Council of Fashion Designers of American Accessories. Honors awarded to the designer include the 2013 National Prize of Culture by the Catalan Government, the order of Merit of the Italian Republic, and the Order of Malta (1).
In 1990 an exhibition of Elsa Peretti’s work was held at the Fashion Institute of Technology. In 2001 the same institution awarded the designer an honorary Doctor of Fine Arts degree (6), and Tiffany & Co. established the “Peretti Professorship in Jewelry Design at the Fashion Institute of Technology, the first endowed professorship in the history of FIT”(6).
Although many of Elsa Peretti’s designs were produced over 50 years ago, they still “maintain their style and beauty”(6) and are remain popular with women all over the world. However Elsa Peretti is remembered, whether as jewelry designer, fashion model, saavy business woman, outrageous celebrity, or philanthropist, this remarkable woman and her prolific work will be admired and acknowledged for many years to come.
References
Shirley, K., (22 March, 2021). Remembering Tiffany Jewelry Designer Elsa Peretti (1940-2021). https://www.forbes.com/sites/kristenshirley/2021/03/22/remembering-tiffany–co-jewelry-designer-elsa-peretti-1940-2021/?sh=5a5a0d2867d3
Wikipedia, (16 April, 2012). Elsa Peretti. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elsa_Peretti
Muller, J., (16 Ocotber, 2018). The Lasting Legacy of Elsa Peretti. http://www.primadarling.com/fashion/the-lasting-legacy-of-elsa-peretti/
Gates, A., (21 March 2021). Elsa Peretti, Star Designer of Elegant Jewelry, Dies at 80. https://www.nytimes.com/2021/03/21/fashion/elsa-peretti-dead.html
Borrell-Persson, L., (19 March, 2021). Jewelry Designer Elsa Peretti Has Died. /article/elsa-peretti-jewelry-designer-obituary
Tiffany & Co, (2021). About Elsa Peretti. https://www.international.tiffany.com/world-of-tiffany/about-elsa-peretti/
Nando and Elsa Peretti Foundation, (n.d.). About the Foundation. https://www.perettifoundations.org/en/page.php?project=0&page=5&cat=6&con=8
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Last year, in a battleground display on this history of beautification in America, a simple argent belt about blanket the show. Simple—to be clear—only in its abridgement of adornment, its adventurous assurance on authentic form. Elsa Peretti’s argent Cartilage Cuff, aboriginal created for Tiffany in the aboriginal 1970s, apparent the alpha of a beautification revolution. It rebelled aboriginal in its angular outline: no flourishes, no stones, aloof authentic organically sculpted metal.
“Style is to be simple,” Peretti already said. The Cartilage Belt additionally bankrupt apart from assemblage in its best of material: argent was rarely acclimated in accomplished beautification at the time. But Elsa Peretti believed in it.
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“You can’t allow gold, and men accept to accord you diamonds, so you’re activity to abrasion silver.”
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“My god, I thought,” said Minnelli. “All I could anticipate of was Albuquerque. But again Elsa brought out all these things—the cartilage armlet I bethink best. Everything was so sensual, so y. I aloof admired it.”
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She became one of the aboriginal legends to abrasion the piece. But Google “Peretti Cartilage cuff” and a beck of acclaimed faces will appear: Sophia Loren, Catherine Deneuve, and Angelina Jolie—all with the aflame metal belt altogether gracing—by design—the contours of their wrist.
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The now-iconic allotment was aggressive by Peretti’s visits as a adolescent babe to the catacomb of a 17th-century Capuchin abbey in Rome, and her time spent in Barcelona abreast Antonio Gaudí’s Casa Mila.
On May 1, Peretti—who is abundantly appreciative to be a Taurus—turned 80. To celebrate, Tiffany & Co alien a appropriate copy of her Cartilage Cuff, done in chestnut in electric colors of blooming and red and blue. Peretti’s pieces are some of the beautification world’s best apparent collectibles—think of her bean pendants, her gold cobweb earrings, Chunk by the Yard, or the bark bangles, and the coiled snake afresh apparent in T&
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