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plantbest · 1 year ago

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Coco Coir Bulk Tek: Unearthing the Secrets of Sustainable Gardening

In the ever-evolving world of gardening, enthusiasts and professionals alike are constantly on the lookout for innovative and eco-friendly solutions. One such solution that has been gaining traction in recent years is Coco Coir Bulk, also known as coconut coir. This versatile and sustainable gardening medium has proven to be a game-changer for those seeking healthier plants, reduced environmental impact, and increased yields. In this comprehensive guide, we will delve into the world of Coco Coir Bulk Tek, unlocking the secrets of sustainable gardening.

What is Coco Coir Bulk?

Coco Coir Bulk, often referred to simply as "coir," is a natural fiber extracted from the husk of coconuts. It's a byproduct of the coconut industry, making it an eco-friendly and sustainable alternative to traditional soil mediums. Coir comes in various forms, including blocks, bricks, pellets, and loose fibers, each with its unique applications in gardening.

Why Choose Coco Coir Bulk?

1. Sustainability

One of the primary reasons gardeners are turning to Coco Coir Bulk is its eco-friendliness. Coconut coir is a renewable resource, as coconut trees bear fruit year-round. This ensures a steady supply without causing harm to the environment. Additionally, coir production reduces the waste generated by the coconut industry, making it a sustainable choice for conscious gardeners.

2. Excellent Water Retention

Coco Coir Bulk has remarkable water retention properties, allowing it to hold moisture and nutrients for extended periods. This characteristic makes it an excellent choice for both indoor and outdoor gardening. It helps reduce water usage and ensures that your plants receive a consistent water supply.

3. Enhanced Aeration

While retaining moisture efficiently, coir also provides excellent aeration to plant roots. This prevents soil compaction, encourages healthy root development, and improves overall plant growth. The increased air circulation in the root zone helps prevent root diseases and root rot, creating a conducive environment for your plants to thrive.

4. Neutral pH

Coir typically has a neutral pH, making it an ideal starting point for various gardening applications. Its pH level can be adjusted to suit the specific needs of different plants, giving gardeners greater control over their growing conditions.

5. Pest and Disease Resistance

Coco Coir Bulk has natural resistance to pests and diseases, reducing the need for chemical treatments in your garden. This can lead to healthier and safer produce, especially in organic gardening.

How to Use Coco Coir Bulk?

1. Rehydrating Coco Coir Blocks

Before using Coco Coir Bulk, you'll need to rehydrate it. Follow these steps:

Place the coir block in a large container.

Add water gradually, allowing the coir to absorb it.

Gently break apart the block as it expands.

Once fully hydrated, fluff the coir to ensure uniform moisture distribution.

2. Mixing with Other Growing Media

Coco Coir Bulk can be used on its own or mixed with other growing media, such as perlite or vermiculite, to create a customized growing blend. This allows you to tailor the medium to the specific needs of your plants.

3. Transplanting

When transplanting seedlings or established plants into Coco Coir Bulk, ensure the root ball is placed at the appropriate depth, and the coir is firmly packed around it. Water thoroughly after transplanting to help the coir settle and establish good root-to-medium contact.

4. Nutrient Management

Coir is naturally low in nutrients, so you'll need to supplement it with a balanced fertilizer regimen. Coco Coir Bulk provides an excellent substrate for nutrient retention, allowing you to fine-tune the nutrient levels your plants receive.

Applications of Coco Coir Bulk

1. Container Gardening

Coco Coir Bulk is an excellent choice for container gardening. Its lightweight nature, water retention capabilities, and aeration properties make it ideal for potted plants, herbs, vegetables, and flowers.

2. Hydroponics

Coir is a popular choice in hydroponic systems. Its ability to retain moisture while providing oxygen to the roots makes it a preferred medium for soilless cultivation.

3. Seed Starting

When starting seeds, Coco Coir Bulk provides a sterile and uniform environment, reducing the risk of disease transmission. Its moisture retention ensures that young seedlings have a consistent water supply.

4. Soil Amendment

In traditional garden beds, coir can be used as a soil amendment to improve water retention, aeration, and overall soil structure. Simply mix it into your garden soil to enhance its quality.

Coco Coir Bulk Tips and Tricks

To make the most of Coco Coir Bulk in your garden, keep these tips in mind:

Balanced Fertilization: Since coir is nutrient-neutral, ensure you provide a balanced fertilizer to meet your plants' nutritional requirements.

Proper Hydration: Overwatering or under watering coir can lead to issues. Maintain consistent moisture levels for optimal plant health.

Monitor pH: Test the pH of your coir medium and adjust it if necessary to suit the needs of your plants.

Reuse and Recycle: Coir can be reused in your garden, making it a cost-effective option in the long run. Simply amend it with fresh coir and nutrients as needed.

Combine with Compost: Mixing coir with compost enriches the medium with organic matter and beneficial microorganisms, further enhancing plant growth.

Conclusion

Coco Coir Bulk Tek is more than just a gardening trend; it's a sustainable solution that benefits both your garden and the planet. Its eco-friendly nature, water retention abilities, and versatility make it a valuable addition to any gardener's toolkit. Whether you're growing in containers, practicing hydroponics, or amending garden beds, coconut coir offers a reliable and environmentally conscious way to nurture your plants to their full potential. Embrace the secrets of sustainable gardening with Coco Coir Bulk, and watch your garden thrive like never before.

#coconut coir bulk #coconut coir bulk products #gardening #gardening products #horticulture

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clearmakermoon · 2 years ago

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COCO HUSK CHIP BALES 4.5KG

Coconut husks are sliced into required sizes to obtain coco chips. They have become an important, natural, economical growing medium. They have replaced fir bark in organic agriculture.

https://www.ceyloncocopeat.com/product.php?name=Coco-Husk-Chip-Bales-4.5kg

#Coco peat #Coir Products #Bio Substrate #Coir in Sri Lanka #Grow bag #Coco peat suppliers #Sri Lankan Coconut fiber #Coconut husk #coir products in Sri Lanka

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solarpunkbusiness · 29 days ago

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For the last three years, R. Madhana has been reaching out to women’s self-help groups to teach them about the commercial potential of flower pots made with coir dust, a waste product derived from the fibrous mesocarp (middle layer) of the coconut husk. She is now trying to empower local businesswomen to venture into this full-time.

With the help of a hot press die cutting machine installed at a demonstration unit in Srirangam, Ms. Madhana’s firm, ‘Saini Eco Products and Exports’, creates six- and eight-inch planter pots, and smaller ‘root trainers’ that can replace plastics in gardening and agricultural operations.

“Coir dust used to be thrown away earlier or burned by farmers. Few people are aware of the value-added products that can be made with it. These pots are completely biodegradable, and since the material is naturally absorbent, can reduce the amount of water used in gardening,” the entrepreneur told The Hindu.

Ms. Madhana maintains a training workshop in Srirangam and a production unit at Aranthangi for client orders. Coir is sourced from farmers in and around Aranthangi while the natural latex needed to bind the matting is brought from Kerala.

“I am trying to help more women join this sector in our district,” said Ms. Madhana. As a pilot project, she has tie-up with producers in nearby cities, to buy back the coir pots made with her machine.

#solarpunk #solarpunk business #solarpunk business models #solar punk #startup #farmers #india #coconut waste #coir #biodegradable #gardening

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sidewalkchemistry · 1 year ago

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6 Eco-Friendly Alternatives to Kitchen Sponges

Natural Cellulose Sponges, Reusable Cloth Sponges, Wooden Dish Sponges, Reusable Dish Rags, Copper Scours, Scours made from Natural Materials (eg. coconut coir)

Traditional kitchen sponges are made of a mixture of cellulose, a naturally-occurring wood fiber, and synthetic materials like polyethelene plastic mesh to provide durability and a scouring surface. This combination is what makes up the typically yellow and green colored sponges that are most commonly sold today. In addition to its mixture of natural of synthetic materials, kitchen sponges are also usually treated with antibacterial agents to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria (and then spreading it around your kitchen each time you clean). Add to this that most kitchen sponges have a lifespan of tops a few weeks – and they’re packaged in plastic – and you can see how these are not a low waste option for keeping your kitchen clean. In addition, antibacterial agents added to sponges typically include triclosan, and according to the Environmental Working Group, “the U.S. FDA advisory committee has found that household use of antibacterial products provides no benefits over plain soap and water, and the American Medical Association recommends that triclosan not be used in the home, as it may encourage bacterial resistance to antibiotics.”

#p #txt #mindful consumption #zero waste #low waste #eco friendly #eco conscious #ecofeminism #sacred spaces #solarpunk #mindful living #soft living #slow living #ethical consumption #green living #sponges #sidewalkchemistry

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mycochaotix · 1 year ago

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hi mycopal :) I'm enjoying your blog and admiring your set up, seems very hightech. I'm also reading about cultivating a local (Australian) psilocybin variety we often find in pine forests. Could you point me in the right direction for more info to get started with a simple at home set up for beginners? thanks again for your good work :)

Hello there mycopal! Thanks for reaching out! I appreciate your kind words :) I’m super proud of my lab area! It has taken two years to put together by saving 25-50 a paycheck lol!! Humorously my roommate doesn’t like that i commandeered a whole room … haha, but here we are ;) What mushy are you looking to cultivate? Pscilocybe Tampensis or P. subtropicalis maybe? :)

note: my opinions and advice are based on my own experience and studious research :) there are MANY ways to skin things with… skin… lol; as such, my way should work for most but may not and there are many other mycoeducators with varied approaches that offer great insight in their own right :) I have a few vids on youtube (still new to content creating there and working on adding more) if you wanna see more of what I do as I outline it below! At the end of this long winded MCX response I will provide supportive resources for your consideration in order they are addressed in this response.

🍄Tip: get some nasalpharyngeal swabs so you can actively swab and store mushroom genetics you find in the wild for later reararch ;)

Pretext: I live in a (technically) tropical area so what i do with my research areas may be different than you! I am not sure how much of what im about to detail has been considered by you… but if youve considered it then disregard :) i like to break things down like you’re new new new incase theres any detail to miss.

Introductory Answering your Q: Basically you have to consider a handful of generalized steps for cultivating any fungus; and find TEKs (ie: guides by other mycopal’s that have yielded them success) and make your own tek— I always say that the mycojourney is coming up with your own tek, cobbled together from current teks that speak to you and also are appropriate for your resource availability :) after you get through my response you’ll have homework of studying resources but also: finding TEKs for your specific strain you want to work with :)

My preferred supplies-

Genetics: Dont know about the laws and availability where you live, but formal vendors (like innoculatetheworld ; sporeworks) and informal mycoeducators (who sometimes vendor spores) like PGT and Boomershroomer; are the only spore sources I trust (outside of my own stock;).

Boomershroomer makes quality inflatable monotubs and if you order one of her tubs she sends genetics with it! A little ‘secret’ ;) to be aware of!

PGT has a shop online thats only open sometimes but has a cool collectible trading card system for his genetics (buy the card get the microscopy supply with the card).

ITW and SW are generally up 24/7 and are more formal vendors that also sell microscopy stuff.

I currently use and recommend using 6qt shoebox totes for grow container (the kind that you buy in 5-10 packs from Walmart that have gusseted lids that allow some air flow for ‘sneakers’ to be stored hehe). Note that you can use 12/24/48/72qt etc, but I have no experience with those and they require larger set ups with fans, humidifiers, etc. i prefer less is more :)

I always promote a company called Microppose :) they do amazing filters and just started their own monotub production I think :) my fave substrate is CocoBliss coconut coir pith, and I use lab grade nutritional additives like: gypsum, lime, malt extract, and yeast off amazon in various stages of my process. For grain bags, before I made my own, I only trust: spawnmagic.com ; for my grains I use Producers Pride: Whole Oats (like what is given to horses) from the feedstore :) a 50lb bag has lasted me two years, no lie. I dont use bags, but jars for grain: i use brand: Ball, glass mason jars for spawn containers prior to moving spawn into a tub with substrate. I use Aozita wide mouth masonjar plastic lids (off Amazon) for my jars as they can be modified with filters and then pressure cooked safely and come with rubber seals :)

Now to go into detail to answer your question:

Here we go-deep breath-: lets talk cultivation and research starting:

1. Genetics: (a) multi spore syringe (mss) (can be injected into a grow bag but isnt ideal and may not produce viable strains) (recomended to use mss on agar to isolate your own colonies), (b) spore print/swab (requires agar) or (c) liquid culture (LC) isolate syringe (best option for immediate injection-inoculation of grain containers/bags with best chance for healthy growth and fruiting without time and hassle of the steps I outline further :)

1a. If you are able to work with agar (either make your own or buy premade sterilized, one time use agar plates): then you will start your journey by MSS->Agar->Isolate separate germinating colonies off mss agar plate to new plates (those become your mother isolate plates for each specific strain isolate for whatever strain youre working with). The mother plate should become your cold storage, reference plate as you study growth and fruiting characteristics of the colonies you isolate :) at that pont: You can then use some excised pieces of the mother plate (if in a rush, or if able to wait, till gen1 plates (transfers from mother plate to new plates that become duplicate isolates of the mother plate)) to inoculate a jar or two and also inoculate other plates to continue to ‘run the mycelium out’ / ‘chase the mycelium’.

1b. If you are not able to do agar work then I strongly suggest you seek genetics that are LC syringe. Basically, LC syringes are when mycopal takes a 2nd gen+ plate and moves some of that mycelium to sterile sugar water and lets the mycelium grow out in that water till its all filled with reproduced mycelium and can be sucked up into syringes for better more assured propagation of genetics ;)

Side thought: Spore swabs and spore syringed are dice rolls :) [Spore germination discussion incl quote from TMC- https://at.tumblr.com/mycochaos/uscrybal-commented-on-a-comment-i-made-quoting/pjzr0c86nlyt]

2. Grain spawn: once you have genetics hammered out, next is grain spawn. Grain spawn can be … well, any grain. Really. Mushrooms can colonize and fruit off of wet cardbord… 💯🍄😂, so what “type” of spawn is more about whats available in your area imo. Youll need to sterilize any grain spawn, unless using a premade bag thats already sterilized or taking chances with uncle bens (or similar) rice baggies that arent sterilized but are arguably cleaner than grains scooped out of a bags of grains from a mill or feedstore.

2a. Grain bags: milo, millet, rye berries, corn kernals, rice, whole oats, really any grain or berry that has a husk can be used :) some species prefer specific grains most work on all kinds of grains with varying levels of efficiency. Some grains are more or less robust and some do better when moistened and or pressure cooked than others :) i make my own grain but exclusively use glass mason quart jars :)

2b. Grain jars: my preference. I have recent grai. Jar prep and creation reels/shorts on my instagram and some on this tumblr if you wanna see specifics :) generally I do 15psi, 10 minute venting, for 1.5 hours for my grain and I do not soak grains, only low boil them for 30 min to soften husks and extract some grain nutrients to then use that liquid ‘grain soak’ run off for agar nutrients :)

2c. Uncle Bens rice bags: i dont do this and dont have any good advice on it. I have a UB tek link or two at end for consideration and there is a whole reddit mushroom sub i think r/unclebens (?) for this

2d. All in one bags: i also do not use these and do not recommend them generally. If you have never had a flush and are literally first timing it, then all in one may work fine :) but as much of the process you can source or create yourself the cheaper and often better, imo!

3. Substrate & Spawn-to-bulk (S2B): many mycopals have their own substrate preferences, but for me I prefer shaved coconut coir pith. I generally do a coir block 650g, 500g vermiculite (from garden store), and 50g gypsum + 50g lime for my substrate. I do not sterilize it, but I do heat pasteurize my substrate for at least 12 hours. In an air tight, insulated cooler (like for sodas at a party). You can also cold pasteurize. I like how Boomershroomer and PGT do their sub and learned from them then tweaked it for my own preferences :)

When my jars are fully colonized and observably free from contam, I will S2B using a clean butter knife :) I kinda cut down into the grain in pizza slices then swirl the knife around as I let grains that spill out mix with my substrate and basically do 1qt spawn to 2qt of substrate, saving maybe 10-15% of the spawn and substrate till end to make a special psuedo casing layer once bulk of spawn and substrate are mixed and compacted. Then I do a last sprinkling of the remaining grain like a baby lasgana and cover that with substrate.

Casing layer explainer: A casing layer is a layer of material applied on top of the colonized substrate in mushroom cultivation. It can help improve yield, reduce certain types of surface contaminants, and maintain humidity around the fruiting bodies. In my experience, using an organic sphagnum peat moss mixed with lime powder and filtered water has produced successful tubs without the need for pasteurization or sterilization. Before I used that i just used left over substrate as a casing layer :) — While some species require a specific type of casing layer after substrate colonization, most do not require one. However, adding a casing layer can be beneficial for improving yield and humidity control.

There are different ways to apply a casing layer. Some people apply it as part of the spawn to bulk (S2B) process, while others apply it only after the substrate surface is fully colonized or slightly before pinning. Personally, I have used a casing layer when colonizing pasteurized wheat/rye straw to provide an even fruiting surface for mycelium. I have also experimented with an organic peat and lime dust casing layer (no pasteurization or sterilization), which has helped retain humidity and has not resulted in any contamination. Personally, I've worked some APEs in that past that had a casing layer applied in the same instance as the S2B occuring, essentially the compacted bits colonized faster than the looser casing layer. Where I always use casing layer, is if I use spawn to colonize pasteurized wheat/rye straw, if only to provide an even fruiting surface for the mycelium! But, even then... most cubensis can fruit solely on pasteurized straw, with no casing layer!

4. Colonization and Fruiting:

4a. Youll need to find a TEK based on whatever substrate container you settle on using :) what ive outlined so far is my own tek, using 6qt shoe boxes and the materials ive outlined above. The substrate chamber/container can be a flat container/tote or could be fruited out the top of a grain bag/all-in-one bag OR could fruit off the side of a bag (if its a species like Oyster mushies that prefer side fruiting). I personally use unmodified tubs and will leave lid on my tubs while colonizing and then take lid off and replace with cleaned, upside down, misted 6qt tub that rests on the edges of the right-side-up tub to create a mini climate that allows more passive air flow, allows light to filter in from high angles promoting fruits growing upwards towards the light. Light isnt needed until pinning, and is a secondary trigger to pinning but a primary factor in pigmentation of fruits and growth direction of fruits.

Colonization of most mushroom fruiting fungi is generally between 68-80F, every species and even some varieties within those species, may have specific temp needs. The way mycopals control for this is many things that I dont have to use fortunately :) ‘Martha Tents’ are something to consider. Some use heating pads and humidifiers depending on where they live and where they are compared to the sea💯. I dont have any experience with martha tents or doing more than using my home A/C, a closet, and a heppa room filter to control my temps in the closet and with lots of trial and error…. I now leave my home at 72F, my closet warms to about 74 with the door shut and a/c at that temp, so i let plates, jars and tubs colonize at 74F and then I will move the tubs to open closet with more air flow and is closer to 72F when I am moving to fruiting :) Ive tried to be clever in how I use my space… so i use wire racks and know higher up on the rack is hotter and less air flow whereas lower is cooler and often more air flow.

Something I havent really gone into yet in this response is about sterility, aseptic environments, personal and environmental hygiene. All important to condsider…

4a. Heres my explainer on that:

Strict aespetic and hygiene techniques are not 100% and even using fancy laminar flow is not 100% contamination free potentials! Common contaminant sources include airborne spores, dust, and environmental factors. Pets that roam around your cultivation area could carry spores on their fur or paws, which may be released when they move through your space. Additionally, some fungal contaminants, like Kahms yeast, can present in distinctive ways and there are dimorphic fungal molds that have one or more alternate morphologies, main dimorphism being mold with a secondary yeast form (whence the mold spores get into human lungs, for example with blastomycosis perhaps) as an alternative reproductive presentation within its life cycle (based on temperature and environmental variables). It's essential to understand that spores and other contaminant-genetic cells are incredibly tiny and (in the case of most spores) can suspend in the air, waiting for air currents, light, or vibrations to move them around. Wet spores and bacterial cells oftentimes require animal assistance or liquid splashing/spritzing/spraying to move around, but can often hitch rides of natural environmental variabes (currents of wind, water, dirt, etc). Humans also carry a range of bacteria and fungal organisms on their skin, which can contribute to localized environmental dust and potential contamination when working in hyper sterile or attempted hygienic environments while researching fungi :)

4b: Primordia, Pins and Fruiting: Pinning is a colony activity (that impacts all sides of your cake once colonized) that shifts metabolic processes of the mycelia to pinning and fruiting, this is why when you start getting heavy side pins you rarely get any flat-surface pins and fruits (all the energy goes into what pins form and fruit, first). Additionally, I believe my suggestions will be effective in controlling for environmental triggers to pinning, it is important to note that side pinning can also occur due to other factors such as genetics or substrate composition.

You can reduce the microclimate from being created that promotes side pins, during the process, by ensuring that the substrate is firmly compressed, once S2B occurs, and then sprinkled with a .25" casing layer of the same substrate material (or peat+lime casing). I press my base spawn+cvg mix firmly, and ensuring that the surface is even with least amount of inconsistently level substrate surface. This early compression, keeps the cake against the wall for as longer than doing little to no compression of your spawn+sub. You should ensure your colonizing mycelium isnt exposed to the same lighting you would for fruiting, but light is only a secondary trigger to pinning, FAE+Temp Drop+Humidity pooling/then drying are the primary triggers for pinning once colonization has completed.

5. Harvesting and Dehydrating: i twist and pull my fruits, some will cut at base, some will float their cake with water and then cut or twist and pull at that poimt :) harvesting is preferential imo. I dehydrate fruits 125F for 24 hours in Air Fryer o. Dehydrate mode :)

Resources and foundational TEKs:

Genetics: innoculatetheworld.com, sporeworks,com, boomershroomer.com, pgtmycology,com

Casing layer post w/screencaps: https://www.tumblr.com/mycochaotix/723941213220339712/mycochaos-oldacnt-plzfollownew-one-of-my

Growing gourmet (book): https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-CsyZenWzF8kHLviXM8pencZ4FAHDedh/view?usp=drivesdk

PF tek - Check this site out, gives a great layout of "PF TEK" and also BRF cakes as part of that TEK - https://www.fungifun.org/pmwiki.php/English/Pftek

HOw to make easy (cvg) bulk substrate (boomer shroomer): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7M6YHfaMyQ8&t=3s

how to make plates, slants, and LC - north spore - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4bzQQkh71Q&t=487s

pgt LC basics - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gqwjUq31KgU&t=284s

Southwest mushrooms - mycelium grain spawn and LC - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rxlJJpu3O_g

How to sterilize equipment such as petri dishes - MIcrobehunter microscopy - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MVtEBtxkhGk

mycelium inoculation in the lab - southwest mushrooms - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ng_Wq9PnEVI&t=560s

Mushroom Cultivation, how it should and shouldnt look: https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/17231150

Recognizing and dealing with contamination: https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/23130868

Sterilization vs Pasturization - http://www.differencebetween.net/science/difference-between-sterilization-and-pasteurization/

Mushrooms, Molds and Mycorrhizae: A Fungal Immersion Course Part 1 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dD1IL2dBLQ8

Mushrooms, Molds and Mycorrhizae: A Fungal Immersion Course Part 2 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_bam3tF_a7M

Mushrooms, Molds and Mycorrhizae: A Fungal Immersion Course Part 3 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AiIUGGKjuwU

Mushrooms, Molds and Mycorrhizae: A Fungal Immersion Course Part 4 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KLfwruf2xVA

Guide to Oysters, Gourmet, Freshcap - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EZAjz6bZjpg

Cooking Oyster mushrooms, TGS - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7qb2KF6kvhA

5 gallon bucket tek - oyster mushrooms - gourmet - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=45b2t7fqhjA&t=60s

Mycophilia YT 'All About Aborts' discussion: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9C8x_32Saxg

Bacterial colony morphology - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JZAFUPckUg

Mycelium morphology : how to select healthy mycelium when breeding mushrooms -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=leUpfsonVxc&t=1s

mycotrophic - agar xfers/sectoring off healthiest growth - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMxGwkj9Wn4

DayTrippers Microscopy library of contam and healthy mycelium examples: https://www.reddit.com/r/ContamFam/comments/nnquol/microscopy_of_healthy_mycelium_and_contamination/

PH trich conversation pt 2 DT: https://www.reddit.ccom/r/ContamFam/comments/jldtuw/my_garden_of_contam_free_grow_it_is_all_about_the/

DayTrippers Trip Tips - apply PH casing layer to prevent trich: https://www.reddit.com/r/ContamFam/comments/m3unbr/daytrippers_trip_tips_video_tutorial_on_how_to/

Trich contamfam library: https://www.reddit.com/r/ContamFam/comments/115gyj2/trichoderma_the_green_monster/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3

If FAE is a problem: not pinning, getting Cobweb, Stroma Overlay! “READ THIS”: https://www.reddit.com/r/ContamFam/comments/jur5ar/daytrippers_trip_tip_why_cant_i_get_this_if_fae/

DayTripper’s Trip Tips: Two cultivation tricks to solve common problems of insufficient Fresh Air Exchange and Overlay growth in monotubs: https://www.reddit.com/r/ContamFam/comments/10w1yxm/daytrippers_trip_tips_two_cultivation_tricks_to/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3

#mycology #lgbtqia2s #magic mushies #microbiology #mold #60s psychedelia #lgbtqia #lgbtqia2s+#myc #enby #myco #fungi #fungusamongus #fungus #funthey #funthem #nb #non binary #psychedlia

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gsingh199416 · 4 months ago

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what is hydroponic farming?

Hydroponic farming is an innovative agricultural technique that involves growing plants without soil, utilizing a nutrient-rich water solution instead. The term "hydroponics" is derived from the Greek words "hydros," meaning water, and "ponos," meaning labor or working water.

Key Features of Hydroponic Farming

Nutrient Solutions: In hydroponic systems, plants receive essential nutrients directly through the water, which is enriched with macronutrients like nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus, as well as micronutrients such as magnesium and calcium. This direct access to nutrients often results in faster growth rates and higher yields compared to traditional soil-based farming.

Growing Medium: While hydroponics eliminates the need for soil, plants may still be supported by inert growing media such as perlite, gravel, or coconut coir. These mediums provide stability for the plants while allowing their roots to access the nutrient solution.

Environmental Control: Hydroponic systems can be set up indoors or in greenhouses, allowing for precise control over environmental factors such as temperature, humidity, and light. This capability enables year-round production and reduces the impact of seasonal changes and adverse weather conditions.

#hydroponic #organic farming #healthcare

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krishilearning · 1 year ago

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What is Hydroponic Farming System

It is the skill of growing plants in the absence of soil. Hydroponic system depends on a water based nutrient rich solution.

Hydroponic is a method of growing plants in a controlled environment (eg-greenhouses) where nutrients are dissolved in water and delivered directly to the plant’s roots instead of relying on soil for support and nutrition. The hydroponic system utilizes various substrates such as perlite, coconut coir or even air to anchor the plants. The nutrition solution, which contains all the essential elements necessary for plant growth, is carefully monitored and adjusted to ensure optimal conditions.

Here are some key components of Hydroponic Farming -

Growing medium : Instead of soil, hydroponic system use various growing mediums such as rock wool, perlite, coconut coir or even air (Vertical Farming) to support plant roots

Nutrients Solution: A carefully balanced mixture of essential nutrients is dissolved in water and delivered directly to the plant roots. This ensures that plants receive the precise nutrients they need for optimal growth.

Environmental Control: Hydroponic systems enable growers to fine-tune environmental factors like temperature, humidity, light and CO2 levels to create ideal conditions for plant growth . This level of control minimizes the risk of pests and diseases.

Water Recycling: Hydroponics is highly water efficient. Unlike traditional farming which can be water-intensive, hydroponic systems recirculate water, reducing overall consumption. This makes it particularly attractive with water scarcity.

Hydroponic Farming in India -

In India, hydroponic farming is gaining traction due to its potential to address various agricultural challenges, such as water scarcity, limited arable land availability, and the need for sustainable and high-yield crop production. It offers opportunities for urban and peri-urban farming, making it a viable solution for increasing food security and promoting sustainable agriculture practices in the country.

Applications in India:

Hydroponic farming has diverse applications in India:

Urban Agriculture: Hydroponics is well-suited for urban areas, where space is limited, and fresh, locally grown produce is in high demand. Rooftop gardens, vertical farms, and container farming are popular choices for urban agriculture in India.

Commercial Greenhouses: Many commercial growers in India have adopted hydroponic systems for the production of various crops, including tomatoes, cucumbers, and leafy greens.

Research and Education: Hydroponic systems are used in research institutions and educational settings to study plant growth, nutrient management, and environmental control, contributing to agricultural innovation in the country.

Food Security: Hydroponic farming can help improve food security by providing a reliable source of fresh produce, even in regions with challenging climate conditions.

Types of Hydroponic Systems:

There are various hydroponic systems designed to cater to different crops and environmental conditions:

Drip System: Nutrient solution is delivered directly to the base of each plant via a network of tubes and pumps. Excess solution is collected and recirculated, minimizing waste.

Nutrient Film Technique (NFT): In NFT systems, a shallow film of nutrient solution flows over an inclined trough, with plant roots placed in the film. Roots draw nutrients and oxygen from this thin film.

Aeroponics: This system mists the plant roots with a nutrient-rich solution, providing both nutrients and oxygen to the roots through a fine mist. This method encourages rapid growth.

Deep Water Culture (DWC): Plants are suspended in oxygenated nutrient solutions in DWC systems. Air stones or diffusers are used to oxygenate the water, ensuring the roots receive an adequate oxygen supply.

Wick System: The simplest of all hydroponic systems, wick systems rely on capillary action to draw the nutrient solution from a reservoir into the growing medium. This is a passive system that requires no electricity.

Ebb and Flow (Flood and Drain): This system cyclically floods plant containers with the nutrient solution, then allows it to drain, providing oxygen to the roots. This mimics natural irrigation patterns.

Vertical Farming: Vertical hydroponic systems utilize vertical space, allowing for the stacking of plant layers. This approach maximizes crop production in limited space, making it suitable for urban environments.

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What you"ll discover here -

Educational Resources - Our blog serves as a treasure trove of educational content, including articles and lesson plans, all designed to enhance your understanding of agricultural principles, practices and new technology in agriculture. We explore cutting-edge technologies, such as hydroponics, aquaponics, precision farming, and more, to help you stay ahead in the ever-evolving world of agriculture.

We have designed our website to be user-friendly, making it easy for you to navigate, access, and engage with our content. We value your user experience.

Join Us in Cultivating Knowledge

Whether you are a farmer, a student, a teacher, or simply someone interested in the world of agriculture, krishilearning is here to guide you on your educational journey. Together, we can foster a more sustainable, innovative, and prosperous agricultural sector. Join us in cultivating knowledge, growing communities, and embracing the future of agriculture.

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factorysdepot · 8 months ago

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Transform Your Indoor Garden with Everan International's Coco Coir Products

Discover the secret to vibrant indoor plants with Everan International's Coco Coir products. From superior moisture retention to sustainable sourcing, Coco Coir is the perfect solution for your indoor gardening needs.

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meadowindia · 1 year ago

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Coconut Coir Products | Coconut Coir Mat | Coir Products in India

Meadowindia Coconut coir products are a range of items made from coconut coir fibers, including mats, ropes, brushes, and soil amendments for horticulture. We are coconut coir products manufacturer, exporter and supplier in India.

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tameblog · 4 days ago

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Gasteria ‘Little Warty’ ‘Little Warty’ is a Gasteria cultivar with variegated foliage streaked with light green or silver and dark green. It is an easy-care, nontoxic houseplant that requires little maintenance. This cultivar is perhaps the best known and most popular plant in the Gasteria genus and can vary in its appearance. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. The shape of the leaves may be strap-shaped or triangular, and the variegation also differs from plant to plant, though a common feature is sharp points at the tips of the leaves, known as mucros. Having already covered general gasteria care in our growing guide, in this article we’ll focus on the ‘Little Warty’ cultivar. The foliage grows mostly upright, arranged either like a fan, a semi-spiral, or a rosette, reaching six to eight inches tall with an eight-inch spread. Tubercles give the leaves a rough texture, and it is these that inspired the name of this cultivar. Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin. In late winter through summer, ‘Little Warty’ may produce long inflorescences bearing pink flowers with green and white striped mouths. Recognized by the Royal Horticultural Society, this hybrid was awarded with the RHS Award of Garden Merit in 2012. Quick Look Common name(s): Little warty, gasteria Plant type: Evergreen succulent Hardiness (USDA Zone): 10-11 (outdoors) Native to: Cultivated hybrid Bloom time / season: Spring and summer Exposure: Indirect sunlight, light shade Soil type: Succulent potting soil Soil pH: 6.0-7.0, slightly acidic to neutral Time to maturity: 2-5 years Mature size: 8 inches wide x 6-8 inches tall (depending on cultivar) Best uses: Houseplant, succulent planters, water-wise landscape. Taxonomy Family: Asphodelaceae Subfamily: Asphodeloideae Species: Gasteria Cultivar: ‘Little Warty’ The ancestors of this gasteria hail from South Africa and Namibia, an area known as a succulent hotspot, where other stars of horticultural fascination such as lithops, baby toes, and titanopsis come from as well. ‘Little Warty’ is a hybrid cross bred by Australian hybridizer David Cumming, using the cultivar ‘Old Man Silver’ and the species G. batesiana. ‘Little Warty’ on the left and G. batesiana on the right. Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin. Gardeners in mild climates can grow ‘Little Warty’ outdoors year-round in USDA Hardiness Zones 10 to 11, where the plants can be cultivated in containers or rock gardens. Whether indoors or out, these attractive specimens can also be grown in mixed planters and succulent fairy gardens. How to Grow ‘Little Warty’ Start off your ‘Little Warty’ relationship on the right foot by purchasing a plant in good health. If you buy yours from a garden center or nursery, inspect the plant for signs of pests and avoid specimens with yellowing leaves or that otherwise look sickly. Light When you bring your gasteria plant home, start by finding a spot for it with the right amount of light. If you’re keeping the plant outdoors, choose a shaded or semi-shaded location. Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin. Indoors, this succulent thrives in primarily bright, indirect light, though about four hours of direct sunlight is okay, particularly if it is morning sun. If you’re using a light meter, aim for approximately 800 foot candles. You can also use a grow light if you don’t have a suitable location near an appropriate window. Soil These plants prefer well-draining growing medium with a pH range of 6.0 to 7.0. They are fairly flexible about the medium type, so you’ll find them growing in many different substrates. A good mix to start with is composed of 50 percent organic materials and 50 percent mineral content. This type of mix will provide the plant with nutrients as well as ensuring that the drainage is excellent. You may want to follow my lead and make your own succulent potting mix for these plants, consisting of organic materials, like compost or coconut coir, and mineral content, such as pumice and sand. If you’re making your own mix, ordinary houseplant potting soil can be used for the organic materials part. I use Rosy Soil’s Houseplant Mix, available in four- or eight-quart bags from Walmart. Rosy Soil Houseplant Mix To this I add a mixture of pumice and sand to create the perfect medium. If you’re intending to grow ‘Little Warty’ outdoors, check out our guide to preparing soil for succulents. Water ‘Little Warty’ needs deep, infrequent watering. Allow the growing medium to dry out completely between waterings. If you aren’t sure if the medium is dry enough, consider using a soil moisture meter, and wait to water until the meter indicates the dry range. Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin. Make sure you water at soil level and not on the foliage or consider using the bottom watering method. I like to place my houseplants in a large bowl, then use a watering can to water until it drains out of the bottom of the pot. I then let them sit and soak up water through the drainage holes for a few minutes. Temperature and Humidity ‘Little Warty’ can tolerate cold temperatures down to about 30°F, but not for extended periods. If you like to take your succulents outside for the summer months, err on the side of caution and transition the plant back indoors before temperatures fall below 50°F. Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin. Indoors, they are perfectly happy in normal household temperatures. No upper heat limit has been established for this plant, but with increased warmth, your ‘Little Warty’ gasteria will appreciate more protection from the harsh rays of the sun. ‘Little Warty’ gasterias will thrive at humidity ranges between 40 to 50 percent. Fertilizing I like to fertilize my gasterias during the growing season. The way I do it is to use a very mild formula, with a ratio of 1-1-1 (NPK) and apply it every time I water. During the winter months, I don’t feed them at all. Dr. Earth’s Pump and Grow Indoor House Plant Food, available in a 16-ounce pump bottle from Arbico Organics, is an excellent product, and has an NPK ratio of 1-1-1. Dr. Earth Plant Food You can also use stronger formulations, up to 16-16-16 (NPK), but these should only be applied once every three months during the growing season. Another way to feed this plant is to add compost or worm castings when repotting. Learn more about fertilizing succulents in our guide. Repotting In general, ‘Little Warty’ should be repotted every three to four years. However, earlier repotting may be necessary such as if it’s growing in a pot without drainage holes, the growing medium isn’t well draining, or if the plant is showing signs of rotting. Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin. When choosing a new pot, make sure the container you select has holes in the bottom, and is just large enough to contain the roots. As a rule of thumb I recommend a pot that provides about 30 percent of room for expansion. More than this, and you risk the potting medium becoming oversaturated. Where to Buy As the most commonly grown gasteria, you may be able to find ‘Little Warty’ at your local garden nursery, big box store, or even your neighborhood supermarket. And of course, they’re also widely available for purchase online! ‘Little Warty’ You can purchase a ‘Little Warty’ plant in your choice of a two- or four-inch clay or plastic pot from the Succulents Box Store via Amazon. Propagation These plants provide plenty of opportunities for propagation. You can grow a ‘Little Warty’ gasteria from seed, leaf cuttings, and offsets or division – just take your pick! Note that because this is a hybrid cultivar, the seeds probably won’t grow true to the parent plant. Here’s a quick look at each of these methods: From Seed If you have seeds from this gasteria cultivar you’d like to grow, here’s how to do it: Fill pots or trays with moistened seed starting medium. Sow the seeds at least 1/4 of an inch apart, and cover with 1/8 of an inch of medium. Add fungicide or biofungicide to the water bottle and spray to water the seeds in. Place inside a transparent plastic bag or under a humidity dome to serve as a mini greenhouse. Position in indirect, bright light and keep at 77°F during the day, and 68°F at night. Keep the medium moist via bottom watering or spraying with a gentle mist from a spray bottle. Seeds will germinate in one to three weeks. Continue to keep them moist, reapplying fungicide as needed. Two months after germination, gradually transition the seedlings to less humid conditions by gradually removing the humidity dome, but keep the growing medium moist. Keep in indirect bright light, and start to water less frequently, allowing the medium to dry out in between. Transplant the seedlings into larger pots or outdoors when they are about a year old. Read our guide for step by step instructions for growing succulents from seed. From Leaf Cuttings These succulents can be easily propagated from leaf cuttings – though the term “cutting” is a bit misleading here. No blades are required! Here’s what you’ll do: In spring or summer, remove a bottom leaf by simply twisting it off the plant. Dip the cut end into fungicide, and place it in a dry, bright location for two weeks to allow it to callus over. When the leaf is callused, fill trays or nursery pots moistened growing medium – leave a small gap between the surface of the medium and the rim of the container to allow room for watering. Place the leaf horizontally onto the surface, with just the callused end under the potting medium. Situate the pot in indirect bright light, and keep the medium moist. Within a few weeks, the leaf should root, and soon after, plantlets will grow from the callus. Keep the medium moist for the first two to three months, and then gradually transition to dryer conditions, watering once to twice a week. Wait until the plantlets are one to two years old before transplanting them, as discussed below. Learn more about how to propagate succulents from leaf cuttings in our guide. From Offsets or Divisions One of the charms of ‘Little Warty’ gasterias is the abundance of offsets they produce. A mother plant with offsets. Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin. Spring is the best time for this project, and if possible, wait until the offsets are about a third of the size of the mother plant. Here’s how to proceed: If you’re propagating offsets, two-inch pots will be just the right size. For divisions, choose pots that will contain the root ball while allowing for about 30 percent more root growth. Remove the plant from its pot, brush off the growing medium, and either gently divide the clump or remove individual offsets, pulling clumps or offsets away from the mother plant. Apply fungicide to the roots of the plants, fill the pots part way with growing medium, then situate the plant in the container. Continue filling with growing medium to cover the root ball, leaving a gap between the soil surface and the rim of the pot. That’s it – you’re done! But be sure not to water them right away – instead, wait a week. Learn more about propagating succulents from offsets in our guide. Transplanting Whether you are growing a ‘Little Warty’ that you propagated yourself, or have a purchased specimen, eventually the time will come to transplant to a new container. When you’re ready to proceed, remove the plant from its pot, brush off as much of the potting soil as possible, and inspect the roots. Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin. Specimens that have healthy roots can be repotted right away. If any of the roots look unhealthy, trim them with a clean pair of snips or scissors before applying a fungicide. After trimming, allow the roots to callus over for a week by placing the succulent on a small plate in a dry location with indirect light exposure. When the callus has formed or if you are repotting right away, place a small amount of growing medium in the new pot. Place the roots of the plant into the pot, then fill in with more growing medium as needed, so that the crown of the plant is about half to one inch from the rim of the pot. Resist the urge to water the newly potted plant immediately, wait a week before watering. Pests and Disease In keeping with its status as a low maintenance houseplant, ‘Little Warty’ doesn’t tend to be very vulnerable to pests or disease. Outdoors, be wary of rabbits and deer, both of which may enjoy nibbling on these succulents. Indoors or out, keep a look out for the insect and arachnid pests that target many houseplants: scale, mealybugs, and aphids. Check under the leaves and if you see any evidence of pests, you can spray them off with water from the hose or the faucet. Mealybugs can be picked off by hand using a cotton bud dipped in rubbing alcohol. If the leaves have gone soft, brownish colored, and pull off all too easily, the plant is likely rotting. To prevent this, make sure you grow ‘Little Warty’ in well-draining growing medium, in pots with drainage holes, and allow the potting medium to dry thoroughly between waterings. Learn more about how to deal with rotting succulents in our guide. Gotta Love this Plant, Warts and All Did you ever see such adorable warts? ‘Little Warty’ is a succulent bound to enchant beginner houseplant growers and seasoned succulent gardeners alike! Are you growing ‘Little Warty’ or other gasterias in your succulent collection? Do you have any unanswered questions about growing or caring for these plants? Let us know in the comments section below, and feel free to share your photos too! And for more information about growing succulents, check out these guides next: Photos by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via Arbico Organics, the Succulent Box Store, and Walmart. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

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kusumasposts · 10 months ago

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ramestoryworld · 4 days ago

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