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perfectirishgifts · 4 years ago

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Meet Joie De Viv: A Diamond Industry Disruptor And Environmental Advocate

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Meet Joie De Viv: A Diamond Industry Disruptor And Environmental Advocate

Joie de Viv CEO & Founder Vivian Weyll.

Are lab-grown diamonds a girl’s best friend? According to Vivian Weyll, CEO & Founder of Joie de Viv & Aria Financial Group – yes, they can be everyone’s BFF.

Weyll explains that her company, Joie De Viv, is a delicate yet modern and timeless jewelry brand whose philosophy is about femininity and fierceness. It features ethical, lab grown IGI certified diamonds (and contrary to popular belief, she asserts that they are REAL diamonds – just quite a bit less costly). In their design and craftsmanship, they also use responsibly sourced gemstones and recycled 18K gold for their creations.

Weyll adds that being in this industry has had its challenges; but for her, it’s been well worth the effort in being able to help people make more sustainable choices. Adding that “going after a multibillion-dollar (diamond) industry that was built on blood, inhumane practices, violence and a lot of profit – is no easy task. Making a real impact takes time, energy, grit and money… a lot of money.” But, slowly she feels they are starting to make a difference. “Massive diamond companies that just two short years ago would not recognize lab grown diamonds as real are now investing heavily in them because they know it is the future.”

In fact, the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) has ruled that both kinds of diamonds are real and they can only be differentiated by its origin which is “mined” or “lab grown”. And support is ever-increasing. Weyll says that “big environmental groups and investors are now backing up research and development of techniques to improve the amazing technology behind creating lab grown diamonds.”

We’re living in a world where people are understanding that the inherent choices they make, particularly with their purchasing power – can truly be a catalyst to affect positive change in our society. When we prioritize the planet’s needs, sustainability and humanity can work in harmony to better the lives of people and the environment.

While her company is “small” compared with the “big players” out there, Joie de Viv’s goals and impact are mighty. In the following conversation with Vivian, she talks all things sustainable and sparkly.

Model wears Sustainable Fine Jewelry with Lab Grown Diamonds by Joie de Viv.

Outline your journey and expertise in the sustainable jewelry movement.

Vivian Weyll (VW): The sustainable jewelry movement was something completely foreign to me when I first started in the industry. Prior to opening Joie de Viv, my background was in the film and art industries. I was a very good CEO and CMO, but like most women, jewelry for me was all about beauty and sparkles. I didn’t have the knowledge to understand what types of materials were out there, how they were sourced, and the impact they made on our environment. When I decided to start Joie de Viv, I was on a journey to find myself, to find my truth and to find things that really resonated with me and that truth I was searching for.

I decided to create a jewelry line that would outline everything I believed in and I was not willing to take shortcuts to do so. Upon this realization, I started taking a much deeper interest when it came to design, sourcing, and manufacturing. For three months, I went on a research expedition around three continents to find everything I could possibility learn about the diamond and gold industries and practices. I visited natural mines as well as lab grown diamond labs in North America, Europe, and Asia. I spoke with specialists in India, Hong Kong, Africa, Italy, US and Brazil and after much research, I was stunned – and not in a good way. I couldn’t understand how such beautiful things could come from such a disgusting industry and how I had been blind to these humanitarian and environmental issues for over 2 years. A lot of people think that only blood diamonds are the problem and the reality is, there is so much more to it than that. Following those three months, I had a very clear idea of the path I wanted to take with Joie de Viv.

Aurora Diamond Tennis Bracelet.

Is there an overarching philosophy you’re emphasizing with your design creations?

VW: Joie de Viv was actually born from the most amazing moment of liberation in my life. I was going through a very difficult divorce and trying to put my life back together when I realized I was doing it all wrong. Sometimes the best thing to do is to accept that something is over, start again and do it better! When I decided to close Viv Storms Fine Jewelry and create a completely new jewelry line, which would now be focused and based on my personal values and experiences, I felt truly free and powerful. I felt I was actually doing what I was meant to be doing and that type of empowerment is my biggest inspiration.

Joie de Viv is the embodiment of this reality; my life of adventure, of new beginnings, of discovered landscapes, terrains, and new loves. My biggest inspiration is to make this type of empowerment a reality for all of the women I can touch with my collections. I create pieces that are meant to empower women in their everyday lives and essentially, my design and collections are inspired by women for women. My goal is to create timeless heirlooms that women are proud to wear and pass down to their children. Pieces that empower them to be the best versions of themselves for themselves and nobody else.

We are often launching new pieces and collections and women everywhere and their life stories are my biggest inspiration. I am proud to say that Joie de Viv has become a line of jewelry were the largest customer base we have is comprised of women buying themselves special pieces. It makes me feel so fulfilled to have created a line that women want to gift themselves, an act of empowerment and self-love.

18K Gold Diamond Eternity Band.

Tell me how you define an “ethical” versus an “unethical” diamond.

VW: There are a lot of misconceptions when it comes to what “ethical” and “non-ethical” diamonds are. A mined diamond changes hands so many times before getting into the hands of the designer or manufacturer, that tracing each single stone from start to finish can be a very difficult, if not impossible, task. Jewelry lines selling “ethical” fine jewelry rely upon one very flawed process – the Kimberley Process.

The Kimberley Process is the most ingenious way to cover up blood diamonds. They claim to certify “conflict-free” diamonds. Suppliers and distributors of mined diamonds often make the case that the Kimberley Process thoroughly addresses the issues surrounding conflict diamonds, but the truth is that it does nothing in terms of preventing or calling out degradation of the environment and that impact on surrounding villages and towns, horrendous labor practices, and human rights violations. Furthermore, the process does nothing to determine traceability of diamonds back to the very mine they were allegedly sourced from, they do not certify individual stones; and instead, they basically certify a batch of rough diamonds before they are cut and distributed around the world. The process is akin to slapping lipstick on a pig and predominantly serves as a band-aid to ease the minds of consumers who believe they are purchasing diamonds that are “conflict-free”.

In my eyes, the only diamonds that are truly ethical are those created in a lab. After much research, there really is no way of tracing mined diamonds to their true origins. Mined diamonds directly impact the environment as well as the surrounding communities. They require mines and large amounts of displaced land, chemicals, utilize questionable labor sources (often child labor), foster violence. Unfortunately, the list of negative impacts of this process is far-reaching. Lab grown diamonds have a minimal impact on the environment and the origins are fully traceable. Of course, it is always extremely important to vet manufacturers of lab grown diamonds to ensure that their facilities are adhering to ethical best practices and labor codes.

Model wears Amelie diamond studs.

Why is it important for consumers to exercise more socially-conscious purchasing practices?

VW: Like it or not, the purchase of mined diamonds funds civil wars, the continued degradation and destruction of ecosystems, villages, cities, water sources and many other unethical practices. Given that there is so much more information available to us from sharing across online platforms, consumers are becoming more and more informed, aware and conscious of what they eat, wear and do. We owe it to the planet and ourselves to make more informed decisions in every aspect of life.

Gabriela Stacked Diamond Necklace.

You’re quoted as saying that your company “uses the most advanced technology and strictest quality control, our top-grade lab created diamonds are born out of meticulous attention to detail” – can you tell me more about this technology and who you’re working with to create these diamonds? Please give me an overview of this process.

VW: We collaborate with and source our stones from a variety of manufacturers across the globe. Since the process of creating lab grown diamonds requires significant amounts of energy, we decided to visit multiple potential partners and their facilities prior to forming partnerships with them. Ultimately, we teamed up with those who were using as much renewable energy sources possible (like solar power for example) and who also met our standards for strict quality control and ethical workplace conditions.

Manufacturers will use 2 processes in the creation of Lab Grown Diamonds.

1. Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD)

2. High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT)

CVD diamonds are formed when a thin sliver from a diamond seed undergoes significant heating inside of the growth chamber. Once heated, the chamber is filled with a gas containing high carbon levels and the carbon component of the gas will break away and adhere to the diamond seed. This in turn, crystalizes to form a diamond.

As its name suggests, HPHT diamonds are created in a chamber where extremely high pressure and temperature replicates conditions that allow diamonds to grow. A small diamond seed is placed into carbon and once exposed to the high temperature and high pressure environment, the carbon forms a diamond around the seed. Once cooled, it becomes pure diamond.

Pictured: Aurora 1ct Rainbow Sapphire Eternity Band and Aurora Rainbow Sapphire Eternity Band.

There’s been an ongoing societal stigma against lab-grown diamonds. That it is “not the real deal”. Why is this and how do we change this mentality? VW: The stigma exists because of the massive money backing mined diamonds. Think of it this way… if I was selling tomatoes that were grown on a farm for decades and held nearly 100% of the world’s market share in tomato distribution and sales, and along came a company that grew tomatoes in a greenhouse that were equal to or superior in taste and quality to my tomatoes but was offering them at a 30-40% discount to consumers, would I be upset? Would I do everything in my power to discredit the greenhouse tomatoes? Would I run negative ads and whisper to all of my customers that the tomatoes were fake and could never replace the real deal?

Absolutely.

And that’s what they’re afraid of.

A diamond grown in a lab is physically, optically and chemically identical to a mined diamond but costs 30- 40% less all while being better for people and the planet. In order to change the stigma, we need to continue to educate potential customers as best we can to ensure that they fully understand what a lab grown diamond truly is… a REAL diamond!

Aurora diamond necklace in 18K gold.

Compared with other fine jewelers, how are you able to keep costs at a reasonable price?

VW: We do everything in house from the very initial concept of each piece, to design, manufacturing and distribution. Because of that, we are able to cut out the middlemen. That in itself saves multiple markup points on all of our products. The standard markup in the jewelry industry is 10 to 12 times because it has to go through so many hands before reaching retail. We also use lab grown diamonds, which are 30-40% more affordable than mined diamonds despite being 100% real diamonds, physically, chemically, and optically identical to mined diamonds.

Also, other fine jewelers expect you to pay simply for the brand name. Joie de Viv is different in that regard. We aim to make our pieces accessible as part of an attainable luxury initiative versus promoting exclusivity and social status. However, it’s important to point out that when comparing prices, consumers need to compare apples to apples.

There are a lot of online jewelry brands selling “affordable” fine jewelry these days. But if you look closely at their products, you will notice that they are mostly selling 10k or 14k gold – and I to L color diamonds (which possess a yellowish hue). Another caveat is the clarity of their diamonds which tend to be no better than SI clarity, meaning that they contain inclusions that are visible to the naked eye. Joie de Viv’s fine jewelry is only made with colorless or near colorless diamonds. Furthermore, we do not use any diamonds with a clarity rating less than VS2, with most of them being in the VVS range, which shows absolutely no inclusions to the naked eye.

Stacked gold rings made with recycled 18K gold and lab grown diamonds.

Who is your biggest consumer base and why do you think this is?

VW: My consumer base is the modern woman. Women that care about what they are putting on their body, about where the items they are purchasing are coming from, how they were sourced, and how those items will affect the world and generations to come. If we’re looking at specific demographics, our biggest consumer base is women aged 25-55. It’s quite a large spread, but that goes to show how our various collections appeal to women across the board. Naturally, we also have a large following of male customers who love that our fine jewelry comes wrapped in a beautiful gift box which makes purchasing and gifting effortless.

Has COVID-19 affected your business in any way? How have you pivoted to survive and thrive?

VW: Actually, our business model is 100% online and it was during COVID-19 that our brand took off. We saw an extreme surge in sales during the onset of COVID-19. Our data was telling us that because more and more people were stuck in isolation at home during the lockdowns, they were spending more and more time looking for an escape. What better way is there to escape than online shopping and treating yourself to something timeless and beautiful?! While we had a huge influx of orders, we saw lead times in production increase significantly as well. We readjusted our shipping and fulfillment times, adjusted our made to order process and launched regular sales to engage consumers and avoid the fate that so many retailers met because of the pandemic.

Where do you see yourself and your business in 5 years time?

VW: I’m currently 3 months pregnant with my second child and engaged to the love of my life. On a personal level, I see myself married, a mother of three amazing kids, running my two companies and living my best life while making a difference in the world by creating sustainable and ethical initiatives that are changing the jewelry industry.

On a business level, my immediate goal is to disrupt the jewelry industry and I make no excuses for it. 5 years from now, I see Joie de Viv as a leader and reference when it comes to the sustainable fine jewelry movement. I see us owning our own lab grown facility where we get to control the process of creating our diamonds in-house with the most advanced and environmentally friendly technology available from start to finish. My plan is ultimately to give back by investing into education and support for communities who will most benefit from the changes we’re trying to make.

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classicgrowndiamonds · 4 years ago

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DIAMONDS ARE FOREVER. ARE LAB GROWN DIAMONDS TOO?

Some may call them manmade diamonds; others would prefer CVD or man-made diamonds. The truth is lab grown diamonds have as names as it has myths surrounding it. But, what diamonds are grown in a lab? Wait, are they diamonds at all? Should sellers sell them? Should buyers buy them?

Do you have any more questions? Feel free to voice them. We are one of the largest lab grown diamond manufacturers; and as such, the responsibility to answer these questions to the best of our ability, fall on us. So, why not burst one myth at a time?

But, before we get to that, let us tell you a little bit about ourselves.

About Classic Grown Diamonds:

We are a part of the New York based Shashvat Diamonds Inc., and we specialise in lab grown diamonds. Shashvat Diamonds started off in Surat, the diamond city of India. Some four decades have passed since, and the endeavour that began as a small manufacturing unit has now spread all around the globe.

Today, we enjoy an unparalleled reputation in the industry, and a rich repository of wisdom that comes with a 40-year old legacy. Our units are well equipped with state-of-the-art technology, and our products come with a rare finish and finesse. Our clientele hails from leading markets like US, Canada, Europe, Hong Kong and Bangkok.

Now that you know us, we feel more confident about garnering your trust. Together, let’s unleash the truth about man-made diamonds. Shall we?

Top 3 Myths about Lab Grown Diamonds

#1: Lab grown diamonds are not real diamonds

Man-made diamonds or lab created diamonds have the same chemical composition, refractive index, dispersion, hardness, density, and crystalline structure as mined diamonds. In fact, we would go so far as to say that they are identical in every way. Just that, one was found in nature; the other one was formed in a lab by the finest of craftsmen.

And, you don’t even have to take our word for it. Go ahead, and ask your trusted jeweller; they’d tell you the same thing.

#2: Lab created diamonds are not forever

Have you heard that saying: Diamonds are forever? Simple and elegant, isn’t it? And, what could be a better way to capture the timelessness of diamonds? Except that, we would like to take it one step ahead and make it say: Lab Grown Diamonds are forever.

Since mined and man-made diamonds have the same chemical composition; they also share the same strength, durability and aesthetic appeal. They are diamonds, after all!

#3: Lab grown diamonds do not have any re-sale value

Truth be told, this myth is more about mined diamonds than it is about man-made diamonds. Diamonds, like most gems, have intrinsic value that goes up with time. This may make one think that diamonds are good investments, and sure they are; but not if you buy them from a jewellery store at mark-up price. It will still have some resale value but you can’t expect to make an enormous profit unless you own a really rare piece of jewellery, purchased at a wholesale price. The same is true for lab created diamonds.

Also, it may interest you to know that irrespective of origin, diamonds are priced according to an internationally accepted pricing system which takes into consideration, the four Cs: carat, cut, clarity and colour. There is no discrimination there.

So, as a jeweller, you can educate your consumer about the fairness of the pricing strategy of lab grown diamonds, and about its re-sale value. This will help them to overcome their doubts and scepticism, and make an informed purchase.

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cmfenews · 4 years ago

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Global Synthetic Diamond Market Key Players And Growth Analysis With Forecast | 2026 | Element Six UK Ltd., Applied Diamond Inc, HEYARU GROUP., Sandvik AB, ILJIN DIAMOND CO. LTD

Global Synthetic Diamond Market report gives clear idea about the market potential for each geographical region based on the growth rate, macroeconomic parameters, consumer buying patterns, possible future trends, and market demand and supply scenarios. Outstanding practice models and excellent method of research has been utilized to generate this Global Synthetic Diamond Market report that aids businesses to uncover the greatest opportunities to prosper in the market. And for the same, all the major topics of the market research analysis that includes market definition, market segmentation, competitive analysis, major developments in the market, and top-notch research methodology have been covered in the report.

Businesses can attain unparalleled and comprehensive insights along with the best acquaintance of the emerging market opportunities with this Global Synthetic Diamond Market research report. By understanding client’s requirements precisely, this report brings together business and product information for the sustainable growth in the market. This report is structured with the meticulous efforts of innovative, enthusiastic, knowledgeable and experienced team of analysts, researchers, industry experts, and forecasters. Two of the major tools of market analysis employed are SWOT analysis and Porter's Five Forces Analysis. The large scale Global Synthetic Diamond Market report is generated with a nice combination of advanced industry insights, practical solutions, talent solutions and the use of latest technology which gives an excellent user experience.

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Market Definition: Global Synthetic Diamond Market

Synthetic diamonds are those diamonds which are manufactured in the laboratories and have similar crystal structure, chemical composition and physical properties as natural diamonds. These are produced by the use of chemical vapor deposition (CVD) or high pressure high temperature (HPHT) forms in the study unit. They are available in two types polished and rough. These synthetic diamonds are available in different shapes and sizes as per the need of the customer. They are widely used in different applications such as laser& X- Ray, sensor & scanning, quantum computing, water treatment and others.

Market Analysis: Global Synthetic Diamond Market

Global synthetic diamond market is set to witness a substantial CAGR of 7.21% in the forecast period of 2019- 2026. The report contains data of the base year 2018 and historic year 2017. Improvement in technologies to avoid impurities and rising application of synthetic diamond in electronics and semiconductor industry are the factor for the growth of this market.

Market Drivers:

Rising disposable income will drive the growth of this market

Growing demand from fashion industry will also accelerate the market growth

Increasing prevalence of superabrasives will propel the growth of this market

Affordable price of the synthetic diamond will also contribute as a factor driving the market growth

Market Restraints:

Adverse assessment among consumers of synthetic jewellery is expected to act as a restraint for this market

Dearth of marketing and branding will also hamper the market growth

Lack of awareness among population about synthetic diamond can impede the market growth

Complexity associated with the manufacturing process also restricts the market growth

Read Complete Details with TOC @ https://www.databridgemarketresearch.com/toc/?dbmr=global-synthetic-diamond-market

Competitive Analysis:

Global synthetic diamond market is highly fragmented and the major players have used various strategies such as new product launches, expansions, agreements, joint ventures, partnerships, acquisitions, and others to increase their footprints in this market. The report includes market shares of synthetic diamond market for Global, Europe, North America, Asia-Pacific, South America and Middle East & Africa.

Key Market Competitors:

Few of the major competitors currently working in the global synthetic diamond market are Element Six UK Ltd., Applied Diamond Inc, HEYARU GROUP., Sandvik AB, ILJIN DIAMOND CO., LTD, Henan Huanghe Whirlwind Co., Ltd, Zhengzhou Sino-Crystal Diamond Co.,Ltd., Industrial Abrasives Ltd, Schlumberger Limited., Laxmi Impex, SWAROVSKI, Scio Diamond Technology Corporation, Eco Star Diamond, Soham Industrial Diamonds, Krystal Grown Diamonds, Inc, HeNan LiLiang Diamond Co., Ltd, Pgd, New Diamond Technology, D.NEA, FOREVER COMPANIES among others.

Key Developments in the Market:

In May 2018, De Beers announced the launch of their new company Lightbox Jewelry which is specially designed for the marketing of different brand of laboratory-grown diamond jewellery. They will be offering new deigns at less price and with high quality. This new company will be offering blue, pink and white- grown diamonds to the customers. With customers, Lightbox will be evident about what lab-grown diamonds are and will deliver simple pricing in line with the real manufacturing price

In September 2015, Schlumberger announced the acquisition of Novatek Inc. and Novatek IP, LLC. (Novatek) which will help the company to improve their drilling performance. This acquisition will help the company to increase their manufacturing, research and engineering abilities and will also allow them to implement new technologies in their business

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Key Insights in the report:

Complete and distinct analysis of the market drivers and restraints

Key market players involved in this industry

Detailed analysis of the market segmentation

Competitive analysis of the key players involved

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shashvatdiamonds12-blog · 5 years ago

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Diamonds Are Forever. Are Lab Grown Diamonds Too?

Some may call them synthetic diamonds; others would prefer CVD or man-made diamonds. The truth is lab grown diamonds have as names as it has myths surrounding it. But, what diamonds are grown in a lab? Wait, are they diamonds at all? Should sellers sell them? Should buyers buy them?

But, before we get to that, let us tell you a little bit about ourselves.

About Classic Grown Diamonds:

Now that you know us, we feel more confident about garnering your trust. Together, let’s unleash the truth about man-made diamonds. Shall we?

Top 3 Myths about Lab Grown Diamonds

#1: Lab grown diamonds are not real diamonds

And, you don’t even have to take our word for it. Go ahead, and ask your trusted jeweller; they’d tell you the same thing.

#2: Lab created diamonds are not forever

Since mined and man-made diamonds have the same chemical composition; they also share the same strength, durability and aesthetic appeal. They are diamonds, after all!

#3: Lab grown diamonds do not have any re-sale value

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massycvddiamond-blog · 6 years ago

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pearlsdiamonds · 7 years ago

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In May, the International Gemological Institute (IGI) received hundreds of synthetic diamonds, according to Michelle Smith in an exclusive article published by Diamond Investing News (www.diamondinvestingnews.com). The fact that these stones were sold and presented in the laboratory is not an important news, since there is a legitimate trade in synthetic diamonds. Post a warning The International Gemological Institute prompted an unusually large amount of precious stones created by human hands, which were presented for the obvious purpose of certifying them as natural.

Synthetic diamonds are produced using equipment that reproduces the conditions under which natural stones are formed. This is a complex and expensive workflow, explained Marc Brauner, chief executive officer of the Hong Kong branch of IGI and chief executive co-manager of IGI Worldwide. But in case of success, the diamond can be "grown" in a day or two.

One of the processes used to create synthetic diamonds is chemical vapor deposition (CVD). Now, though not always, it is possible to create CVD-synthetic diamonds, which can be limited, turning them into jewelry.

As Brauner says, it is impossible to establish that CVD synthetic diamonds are not natural unless you analyze them in the laboratory.

From the very beginning, strict rules aimed at protecting consumers were adopted with respect to manufacturers of synthetic diamonds. These requirements included the disclosure of information about such stones at any point of sale using terms such as "artificial", "synthetic", "grown in the laboratory" or "created under the brand."

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bridalpearlnecklace-blog · 7 years ago

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According to the largest certification laboratories, it was only a matter of time before this day comes, writes Michelle Graff on the portal www.nationaljeweler.com.

Synthetic, or grown in the laboratory, colorless diamonds created with the chemical vapor deposition (CVD) process, are becoming more common on the market. And not everyone is honest with respect to what they sell.

This spring, a batch of hundreds of CVD synthetic diamonds were presented to the International Gemological Institute (IGI) in Antwerp, and another, albeit a much smaller group of CVD synthetic diamonds, surfaced in the Hong Kong Laboratory of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) in June.

In both parties, the diamonds were mostly high-level in color and transparency, and their size was from 0.30 to 0.70 carats.

These two parties were distinguished by at least one other feature: both were presented without proper announcement. In the case of diamonds in Antwerp, the dealer who presented diamonds grown in the laboratory paid for them as a natural price and, according to those who were involved in this situation, did not know that he bought diamonds grown in the laboratory.

The news of what happened in Antwerp swept across the industry around the world, and in Belgium, where a larger shipment of undeclared synthetic diamonds was presented, the federal police began investigating.

But for the certification laboratories of the industry, the identification of synthetic diamonds is not a sensation, but a reality, with which they were preparing to face for a decade, and with which, as one of the leaders said, they will cope, being fully armed.

Tom Moses, senior vice president of the GIA lab, compares the situation to a student who diligently performed homework and is well prepared for the upcoming exam.

"This reduces the severity of the problem," he says. "We treat her with great respect." We have invested a lot in this business. But I have to say, we have a kind of calm confidence that we really feel that we can cope with the situation. "

The scientific basis for the creation of synthetic diamonds

Although the leaders of the world's largest certification laboratories can not accurately name the year, they are counting the practice of screening for synthetic diamonds since the late 1990s.

Peter Yantzer, executive director of the Gem Society Laboratories, AGS Lab, in particular, recalls a trip around this time to London with Ruth Batson, chief executive officer of AGS. The purpose of the trip was to get acquainted with two new types of equipment DiamondSure and the DiamondView, just released by the diamond giant De Beers.

Soon after this trip across the ocean, the first generation of DiamondSure and DiamondView devices arrived in the United States. Now they are the key components of that invisible work for all, which allows gemmologists to distinguish natural stones from artificial stones.

"De Beers saw what was happening," says Yantzer. "Honor and praise to them."

As noted by GIA in an article published in its summer edition of Gems & Gemology, it is knowledge of the types of diamonds that makes it easier for laboratories to determine whether a diamond is natural, processed or synthetic.

According to this article, which shows the results of decades of research, diamonds can be divided into two main categories of types. Type I includes diamonds containing nitrogenous inclusions, and to type II - diamonds, in which they do not. These types are then subdivided into type Ia (with aggregated nitrogenous inclusions), type Ib (with isolated nitrogenous inclusions), type IIa (without nitrogenous or boron inclusions) and type IIb (with boron inclusions). (Type I is still divided into 2 types - IaA and IaB.)

Moses says that over 95 percent of natural diamonds are of type Ia, but that it is "difficult" to grow diamonds of type Ia in the laboratory. CVD-synthetic diamonds of all colors are of the type IIa or IIb.

When gemologists place a diamond in DiamondSure, they check the spectroscopic characteristics of a diamond type Ia; Basically, to see if the diamond is immediately identified as natural, and whether there is a need for further verification.

The diamonds passed by the DiamondSure device are for further analysis and expert evaluation, for which another De Beers device - DiamondView can be used.

DiamondView subjects high UV UV irradiation stones to get a real-time image of fluorescence characteristics in diamonds showing their growth structure.

Moses says that diamonds grown in the laboratory using CVD or HPHT processes (at high temperature and under high pressure) show a clear picture of growth, which shows that they are artificial. For example, a crop of 10 synthetic diamonds, recently presented by the GIA in Hong Kong, showed "typical growth strata in a CVD process" when they were placed in a DiamondView device, the GIA said.

"It does not matter what is being done to process or mask synthetic diamonds, these two growth rates, characteristic of HPHT and CVD processes, can not be removed. This can not be changed, "he says.

Another aspect of the synthetic diamond market, which, according to Moses, does not change, is the ability to determine whether a stone is natural or synthetic with just one remedy. During the presentation held in New York for the Diamond Manufacturers and Importers Association of America, Moses tossed the idea of developing a "black box", one device capable of completely determining whether a diamond is synthetic or natural.

Moses also expressed his skepticism about DiamaPen, a device in the form of a pen valued at $ 199, which is said to instantly distinguish the yellow diamonds grown in the laboratory from their natural counterparts. The DiamaPen features are currently being checked both in the GIA and in the IGI.

Mitch Jakubovic, director of EGL USA, agrees that the development of the so-called black box seems unlikely.

"Although we did not test this new device (DiamaPen), but there is little chance of developing one inexpensive device capable of instantly distinguishing extracted diamonds from synthetic diamonds," he said. "In some cases, several tests may be required to determine whether the diamond is natural or grown in the laboratory, and it is difficult to imagine a device capable of carrying them all."

He adds that some types of modern equipment used in the process produce graphics that, in turn, are studied and interpreted by more experienced researchers, and from all this, a picture of each individual stone is created.

Role of the laboratory

The last crop of undeclared synthetic diamonds that appeared on the market - the 10 diamonds that were presented in Hong Kong to GIA - were presented for the first time by this particular customer, says Moses.

Although the GIA does not disclose the names of customers, the July issue of eBrief, released by Gems & Gemology, which announced the presentation, mentions one very famous name: Gemesis. The diamond growing company in the laboratory is also a company associated with a large batch of synthetic diamonds, presented to the IGI in Antwerp, although the company published a public denial of its involvement.

The eBrief edition stated that the diamonds had gemological and spectroscopic properties "similar to those observed in CVD synthetic diamonds produced by Gemesis, and it is suggested that annealing was followed by annealing after growth at high temperatures in order to improve their color and possibly their Transparency ".

None of the leaders of the industry's largest certification laboratories expressed surprise at the fact that synthetic diamonds flood the market, or about the fact that they are not always properly represented.

The technology for growing colorless diamonds with the help of CVD-process is being improved. In turn, the stones themselves have become larger and of higher quality, and they are increasingly appearing in certification laboratories around the world.

A little over two years ago, in May 2010, the GIA recognized its first almost colorless, CVD-grown diamond with a weight of more carat. "Clearly, CVD synthetic diamonds are produced of a higher quality and larger size, as the cultivation method continues to improve," GIA said at the time.

There is nothing strange in that the industry participants, seeking to profit, resort to the sale of synthetic diamonds, giving them away as natural. As Jerry Ehrenwald, President and CEO of IGI in the Americas, said: "Since the synthetic diamonds became available from the point of view of their industrial production, it has become possible, either intentionally or unintentionally, to deceive somebody. It was just a matter of time. "

But the emergence of the seemingly inevitable criminal element raises questions about the role of laboratories in attracting those who try to deceive, to trial.

Moses says that at the GIA, when the customer presents synthetic diamonds without proper announcement for the first time, as it just happened in Hong Kong, the laboratory informs him that the presented stones were grown in the laboratory and issues an act about a synthetic diamond, "he says. .

But, if it repeats, he says that the GIA has the right to terminate business relations with such a client and, if circumstances so require, notify relevant trade organizations, trade exchanges and even law enforcement agencies.

Other laboratories agree to notify the industry, but do not want to be involved in the law themselves.

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