#American Pilgrims on Camino
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Read about a local woman embarking on the Camino De Santiago pilgrimage across Spain this fall and how she will be raising funds for nonprofits along the way.
#Elaine Snider
#American Pilgrims on the Camino
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The list of topics on every single Camino forum, subreddit, or group:
How crowded is it this year
What’s the weather like when I’m going
Which route should I do
What shoes should I wear
Is it possible to do it camping the whole way
What do you think of my packing list
“You’re not a real pilgrim because [you’re not Catholic/you have your bag transported/you only did it from Sarria/seriously the list goes on and on]” vs “Everyone is a real pilgrim, stfu”
“A pilgrimage is supposed to include some hardships” vs “you don’t know what is or isn’t hard for other people”
How do I get to my starting point from [European city]
Vigorous discussion of blister avoidance/treatment
How do I train for the Camino (extra points: people who live in incredibly flat places)
Should I be worried about bed bugs
Angry post about Camino etiquette, always followed by five hundred replies of people agreeing/disagreeing
Is it safe to do it alone
Can I bring my kids/dogs
Do I need trekking poles
Should I go with a paid company that arranges everything for me and if so which one
Who here has seen The Way (WE ALL HAVE)
Can I do the Camino with [health condition]
Can I do the Camino with [non-standard diet]
Poncho or rain jacket
Will I get lost
“Please watch my YouTube video about [one of the above]”
Americans, specifically:
How do I use my cell phone in Spain
How do I access my money in Spain (I’ve met at least one person who brought €2k cash?! I know of another person who did that and lost it all! Nooooo just use atm’s oh my god)
Why do the Spanish/Europeans generally do this thing that annoys or confuses me
What travel insurance should I buy
Will they all hate me if I can’t speak Spanish
What do you mean none of the hostels have air conditioning
The Best Posts:
Here are photos from my Camino! Here are photos of me and my new friends I met on the Camino!! Here’s a photo of me in front of the cathedral! I made it!!!
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Day 43 - O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostella
(Posted the day after as too tired to finish it last night!)
We made it! We’re more than a little proud of what we have done, and I am a bit emotional too!
But back to earlier today. After a much better night’s sleep Jane woke me at quarter to 6. We had decided to get going much earlier to get ahead of the crowds and left the hostel shortly after 6 in the dark.
We managed to find our way back to the Camino but were then rescued by one of the American girls who gave up a top bunk a few days ago as we were starting down the wrong way. Going through the forest we had to use our phone torches for a while until it got light enough to see.
We passed through fields and forests, it was all quite rural for some time.
After about 4 miles we stopped for breakfast at a lovely place. The lady who owns the cafe complemented me on my Spanish, probably a bit of an exaggeration though I have got ordering breakfast down to pat now! She had spent quite a few years working in the UK in the VIP lounge at Heathrow and it was interesting hearing her story.
We carried on and eventually got to a hilltop just outside Santiago that gave us a wonderful view down into the city and the cathedral.
Carrying on downhill we passed and were passed by many pilgrims on their way in. Jane needed the loo which gave us a great opportunity to stop at a cafe for chocolate and churros which Jane had not experienced yet. The churros were great but we couldn’t finish the chocolate as it was so rich!
Another very busy mile or so got us to the city centre. I was quite emotional thinking about the adventure being almost over. It has been something that we had talked about and planned for so long, then we were on it, then it was going to be over.
We followed the signs, then lost them as we got closer to the end, but again got directed by pilgrims who had finished. It was impossible just to follow people wearing backpacks as everyone was!
Going through an archway with a piper playing we finally entered the Plaza do Obradoiro and caught sight of the famous cathedral. Pilgrims, tourist groups, and schoolchildren filled the square and it was noisy and busy.
We found Laura and Rian who had finished a short while ago and who were sitting people watching. Rian took some great photos for us then she found a friend to take some photos of the four of us.
Having had enough of the square we went with the girls to find the Pilgrims’ office to get our Compostela, our certificate. They had a QR code which led to a form to fill in. Jane was struggling to get it to work so someone inside took pity on us and told us to go on through, down some stairs then into a reception area with PCs where a nice man helped us fill in what we needed to. So we’ve all got our certificates, as well as a certificate of distance.
To celebrate we found a great tapas bar for food and a few wines. We were joined by two of Rian’s Dutch friends, one of whom had walked all the way from the Netherlands!
Replete and relaxed we popped into the Tourist Office for a map, then went back down to near the Pilgrim’s office to buy our bus tickets to get to Finisterre on Thursday. The town is incredibly busy but we’ll take more time to explore tomorrow.
As we have come in a day earlier we found a hostal with a twin room for the night. It’s very close to the town centre and seems fine. Jane went to investigate the bathroom and who should pop out of the room next door but Kate (living in Canada who we met with her brother earlier in the journey). It was great to see her and to meet her daughter who had joined her to walk from Sarria.
As we were chilling we had a message from Rian to say the Cathedral was already filling up (at 6 for a 7:30 Mass), so we hot footed it up there to find standing room only! We managed to squeeze ourselves onto some steps at the back with Laura and then had a long wait.
The service started at 7:30 and even though we couldn’t understand anything we stood and sat when needed. The priest seemed very kind welcoming pilgrims from all over the world. After an hour, and right at the very end, they swung the botafumeiro, the huge incense burner. It went the whole length of the cathedral and seemed like it almost touched the roof!
Once the service had ended we went with the girls to try to find food. The streets were heaving but we eventually found an organic restaurant and I had a mini pizza and Jane a salad and sausage. We were all hanging by then so decided to call it a day.
Tomorrow we find our Airbnb and have a day being a tourist.
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racha de pelis 2024:
1- sombras en el paraíso
2- sick of myself
3- crimen y castigo
4- thunderbolt and lightfoot
5- phenomena
6- election
7- the griefters
8- the holdovers
9- daydreaming so vividly about our spanish holidays (c)
10- buenas noches
11- poor things
12- la favorita
13- scott pilgrim vs. los ex de la chica de sus sueños
14- the french dispach
15- cuando acecha la maldad
16- gummo
17- the myth of the american sleepover
18- graciadió
19- closer
20- perfect days
21- invasión
22- nueve reinas
23- la antena
24- los delincuentes
25- lick the star (c)
26- ordet
27- rio grande
28- bad day at black rock
29- primer nombre: carmen
30- trenque lauquen
31- amarcord
32- family plot
33- scarface (1932)
34- cenizas y diamantes
35- fumar causa tos
36- tacones lejanos
37- geminis
38- la idea de un lago
39- marie antoinette
40- un mundo misterioso
41- los colonos
42- ¿quién inició el incendio? (c)
43- las tardes (c)
44- fisgona (c)
45- el estudiante
46- muere monstruo muere
47- crónica de un niño solo
48- 500 dias con summer
49- leme do destino
50- grizzly man (d)
51- la pasión segun GH
52- berta y pablo
53- riddle of fire
54- tiempo de pagar
55- humanist vampire seeking consenting suicidal person
56- uncropped (d)
57- fuck you! el último concierto (d)
58- after hours
59- challengers
60- las virgenes suicidas
61- love lies bleeding
62- when harry met sally
63- phantom of the paradise
64- pinocho
65- investigacion de un ciudadano bajo sospecha
66- desearás al hombre de tu hermana
67- red rocket
68- el color del dinero
69- el pibe cabeza
70- atame
71- no esperes demasiado del fin del mundo
72- love streams
73- doli vuelve a casa (c)
74- copacabana (d)
75- shakti (c)
76- entrenamiento elemental para actores
77- minnie and moskowitz
78- el padrino II
79- el apartamento
80- used cars
81- los dueños
82- bananas
83- alemania
84- adventureland
85- goyo
86- hitman
-a partir de acá, SK empieza a trabajar en un cine-
87- benji, el perseguido
88- pinocho (2022)
89- roadkill
90- aventuras de un niño genio
91- raya y el último dragón
92- lightyear
93- lightyear
94- elementos
95- elementos
96- tráiganme la cabeza de alfredo garcía
97- vacas vaqueras
98- el libro de la selva
99- riddle of fire
100- la noche con el diablo
101- up
102- tarzan
103- robin hood
104- enredados
105- wish
106- los novios (c)
107- frozen 2
108- buffalo '66
109- habitación 666 (d)
110- smithereens
111- el consorcio (c)
112- lenny (c)
113- mistery train
114- un buen día
115- cruising
116- en compañía de lobos
117- maxxxine
118- witchfinder general
119- corpiños en la madrugada (c)
120- los otros tienen tanto más (c)
121- mumblewhore (c)(d)
122- algo nuevo (c)
123- pandemia (c)
124- pico salomonte (c)
125- en mis sueños (c)
126- los paranoicos
127- después de un buen día (d)
128- blue velvet
129- l'opera-mouffe
130- coco
131- kinds of kindness
132- una despedida en cinco pasos (c)
133- lenny (c)
134- maria la chismosa (c)
135- relatos salvajes
136- tango feroz
137- repulsión
138- big lebowski
139- coraline
140- el repartidor esta en camino (d)
141- el sacrificio
142- beetlejuice beetlejuice
143- longlegs
144- el graduado
145- el aroma del pasto recién cortado
146- punch-drunk love
147- el jockey
148- gnosticismo (c)
149- ya no escucho a los strokes (c)
150- pierrot le fou
151- la sustancia
152- la masacre de texas (1974)
153- death proof
154- planeta terror
155- kill bill I
156- confidencialmente tuya
157- el secreto de sus ojos
158- stop making sense (d)
159- evil dead
160- terrifier 2
161- terrifier
162- lick the star (c)
163- un movimiento extraño (c)
164- terrifier 3
165- blow out
166- ¡ufa con el sexo!
167- los payasos
168- ana y los otros
169- golpe de suerte en paris
170- sombras en el cielo
171- lancelot del lago
172- breve cielo
173- el niño oscuro
174- megalopolis
175- corazon embalsamado
176- valentina
177- asfixiados
178- the back of my mind (c)
179- funny games
180- años luz (d)
181- hi, mom!
182- ostende
183- las pibas
184- moebius
185- lo que el agua se llevó
186- supercool
187- esquí (d)
188- un buen día
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Only 8 miles today and we appreciated the easier walk. We’ve begun seeing the grain storage structures common in Galicia called hórreos. The one pictured is very elaborate with supports that look like toadstools and interesting joints. We had some beautiful trails but also time along roads which is never very enjoyable. Notice that even nice trails through the woods can be challenging to traverse. There were a lot of pilgrims including many Americans (we met 2 from Maryland).
Solamente 8 millas hoy y apreciamos el camino más fácil. Hemos empezado ver las estructuras para guardar los cultivos que son común en Galicia, se llaman hórreos. Lo que se ve aquí es muy elaborado con soportes que se ven como hongos venenosos y junturas interesantes. Tuvimos algunos senderos hermosos pero también tiempo al lado de carreteras que no es agradable. Date cuenta de que aún senderos buenos por los bosques pueden constituir un desafío para atravesar. Habían muchos peregrinos incluyendo unos americanos (nos conocimos a 2 de Maryland).
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5 Solo Trip Ideas for the Adventurous Soul
In a world bustling with activity, there's an unspoken allure to the idea of embarking on a solo journey. Solo travel offers a unique opportunity for self-discovery, personal growth, and unforgettable adventures. Whether you're a seasoned solo traveler or contemplating your first solo expedition, here are five solo trip ideas to ignite your wanderlust and set your soul free. Fashion Trends with Style
1). Backpacking through Southeast Asia: Dive into the vibrant cultures, tantalizing cuisines, and breathtaking landscapes of Southeast Asia. From the bustling streets of Bangkok to the serene beaches of Bali, this region offers a perfect blend of adventure and relaxation. Embrace the spontaneity of solo travel as you hop from one destination to another, encountering friendly locals and fellow travelers along the way.
2). Solo Safari in Africa: Experience the raw beauty of the African wilderness on a solo safari adventure. Set out on game drives through iconic national parks like the Serengeti and Kruger, where you'll have the chance to witness majestic wildlife in their natural habitat. Whether you're tracking lions on the savannah or marveling at the awe-inspiring sight of Victoria Falls, a solo safari promises an unforgettable journey into the heart of Africa. Power Of Influence
3). Camino de Santiago Pilgrimage: Embark on a spiritual journey along the historic Camino de Santiago trail in Spain. Walk in the footsteps of pilgrims from centuries past as you traverse picturesque landscapes, quaint villages, and ancient monuments. The Camino offers not only physical challenges but also moments of introspection and spiritual awakening, making it an ideal solo trip for those seeking inner peace and enlightenment.
4). Solo Trekking in the Himalayas: Challenge yourself both mentally and physically with a solo trekking expedition in the Himalayas. Navigate rugged trails, towering peaks, and remote villages as you immerse yourself in the breathtaking beauty of the world's highest mountain range. Whether you're conquering the iconic Everest Base Camp trek or exploring the hidden valleys of Bhutan, a solo trek in the Himalayas is sure to leave you with memories that will last a lifetime. Fashion Choices
5). Road Trip Across the American Southwest: Hit the open road and embark on a solo road trip through the stunning landscapes of the American Southwest. From the majestic Grand Canyon to the otherworldly beauty of Monument Valley, this region is a playground for outdoor enthusiasts and adventure seekers. Camp under the stars, hike through rugged canyons, and discover hidden gems along the way as you embrace the freedom of solo travel.
No matter which solo trip idea speaks to you, remember that the journey itself is the destination. Embrace the unknown, step out of your comfort zone, and let the world be your guide as you embark on a solo adventure of a lifetime.
View More: Best Places for solo trip
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Camino de Santiago - Day 5
Last day on this Camino. Good night’s sleep but still woke up feeling a bit grumpy. Forecast was for rain but don’t think that’s the problem. More I think it is just the fifth day in a row of walking with 25 lbs on my back. Legs hurt. Bit bored of the monotony of the walking today.
Walk is also not that interesting today. Fairly flat, non descript, farmland, few small towns.
Bumped into North Americans Jamie and Drew and got a photo. Found out they’ve bonded due to age related issues. Drew had a stroke last year and Jamie’s been diagnosed with early stage dementia. Getting old sucks even if better than the alternative, yet watching them on the Camino is pretty cool.
Highlight was the second cafe stop. We were in a small village most of which seem to be closed up at this time of year. But this one had a coffee shop / bakery that was open and everyone seemed to have stopped there. Suddenly 20-30 fellow walkers / pilgrims all together. We do it for the walk, but the community is what makes it special. Met a young Argentinian who is doing the Camino before trying to move to Europe full time as a cook. Met the amazing French family again for the last time.
Low point: last day.
Dinner was with Mike from Washington state. Former Ironman competitor, Everest etc. Had been an accountant / CFO for his local council and construction companies. Hoping to do the Portuguese route with his son next year.
Final thoughts: I hoped it was going to be good. Feared I wouldn’t like the monotony. It was way more fun than I expected and the monotony was there but less bad that I expected. I believe in the pilgrim journey thing. By going out and breaking your routine, doing all that exercise, suffering a bit, being in nature, meeting so many completely different people you get the time to develop a whole new perspective on your life, on yourself, on what’s important to you. Want to come back and finish it off.
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MADE IT TO SANTIAGO WITH ST. JAMES
WF UPDATE: Day 14 (7/15/23).
With the help of Saint James, and all of you, we have arrived in Santiago! Yahoo!!
Many of you probably doubt that Saint James watched over our journey. If you’re in that group, consider the following:
1. Last night, the weather forecast called for rain until Noon today. At 4:00 a.m., it was raining pretty hard and the forecast said the rain would stop by 7:00 a.m. At 6:00 a.m., it was still raining and it looked ugly outside. I decided to push back our normal departure time. At 7:00, it didn’t look like the rain was going to stop soon. I figured that we couldn’t wait all day. We put on our rain gear and hit the trail at 7:15 a.m. The rain stopped at 7:45 a.m. By 8:45 a.m, it was so sunny that we put our rain gear away. We had some slight drizzle for 10 minutes around 9:30 a.m., but then we walked in sunshine the rest of the way. All in all, the total washout didn’t happen and we had a pretty easy time. We’ve had great weather for about 98% of the trip. I believe that Saint James was bringing the sunshine. You’re free to form your own belief.
2. At least 1,000 Pilgrims arrived in Santiago today. From start to finish, we’ve probably shared the trail with a few thousand Pilgrims. Several times, we’ve bumped into a nice guy from California named Dave. We haven’t seen him for a few days. About 3 miles away from Santiago, I was having a discussion with GC1 about our wonderful journey. He commented that it would be nice to walk into Santiago with Carlos, or Nick, or one of the other folks that we’ve messed around with on the trail. We were inside the city boundary, and a few minutes later we hit a red traffic light at an intersection. A small group of Pilgrims was waiting near the crosswalk to cross. There was Dave! What are the odds? Was this a coincidence, or was it the work of Saint James? You decide. I hope Dave wasn’t hoping for a reflective walk into Santiago. He had his ear chewed off by GC1 for three miles! In California, Dave teaches fourth grade and fifth grade. GC1 and Dave did a detailed comparative analysis of the school systems in California, Connecticut, and Washington D.C. I tagged along behind and listened.
3. When a Pilgrim finishes his or her Camino, provided that their Pilgrim Passport proves that they’ve covered at least 62 miles (100km), they are entitled to an official completion certificate. To get that certificate, the Pilgrim must go to a Camino office that resembles a DMV. There is a paperwork process. I’ve done it twice before. It can take hours. Today, we walked in the door at 12:10 p.m. and we were out by 12:25 p.m. I credit Saint James.
4. The nice woman who processed our paperwork was an American who moved to Santiago about 18 months ago. She was from Oregon. That’s where GC1 was born. Coincidence, or the work of Saint James?
5. In addition to being the terminal point for El Camino, Santiago is a vacation destination for people from all over Europe. There is a large historic section, which is filled with all sorts of shops and hundreds of restaurants. We’re at the height of the tourist season, and we’re at the height of the Pilgrim season. We went out for a walk this afternoon, and there were thousands of people roaming the narrow streets. It’s common for Pilgrims to stay for a few days after their arrival. We had dinner at a small outdoor cafe and started to walk back to our hotel. We took a few steps from our outdoor table and we literally bumped into our old friend Carlos. He was taking a picture of the top of a building, and he wasn’t watching what he was doing. He actually bumped into us. Do you remember him? He’s the guy from California who had terrible blisters. He was in awful pain. One day, I drained three of the blisters when we were out on the trail. We hadn’t seen Carlos in more than a week. Just yesterday, GC1 was wondering if Carlos was going to make it to Santiago. We had a nice little reunion. Carlos and GC1 share the view that the folks who start in Sarria are not true Pilgrims. It was good to see Carlos. There are thousands of people here. Do you really think it was a coincidence that we bumped into Carlos?
I don’t know about you, but I’m not going to mess with Saint James. Tonight, to show appropriate respect and appreciation, I walked over to his Cathedral. I took the underground tunnel and viewed his burial vault. Then, in accordance with longstanding Pilgrim tradition, I climbed a set of stairs to touch the big statue of Saint James that hovers over the main altar. At both locations, I prayed for all of you guys. Whether you like it or not, Saint James is watching over you too.
It’s been a long day. We only walked 12.6 miles, but the day was full of other activities too. We’re here for a few days. I’m certain that I’ll visit with Saint James again. I’ll put in another good word for all of you. Thanks for coming to Santiago with us.
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Day 33: Baamonde to A Roxica, 24km. For anyone interested, yes the snoring was next level, oh well. Day started with heavy rain and highway walking for a few km (not great) but soon cleared to light rain for our first real rain day (we have been super lucky so far). Mostly a quiet part of the trail which felt genuinely isolated (the occasional loud bang off in the distance, which we are told is to scare the wolves away from the crops). We are staying in a small casa in the countryside looking forward to a meal with the very few pilgrims staying here.
Side note: as much as I am getting over carrying my pack everyday, wearing one of two sets of clothes, washing them each day in the shower or sink, hanging them to dry on a twist travel line, I am going to miss it, terribly. The solitude and quiet has been unexpected and amazing. I admit I am a little fearful (actually dreading) rejoining the busyness of the Camino Frances in a couple of days for the last 12km of the journey. The most surprising part of this hike so far has been the lack of people on the trail, I really was expecting many more. The evenings have been great as we have made a small Camino family (Americans, Danes, Russians, Germans) but the trail remains very quiet and beautiful.
Bonus for anyone reading this far (unlikely), I am currently listening to BR, crying, and definitely overthinking everything. This happened last time at a similar stage of the walk (so I am taking some comfort in that) but I have no idea why as it is not sadness, I really can’t explain.
And my ichiban co-pilot has been absolutely incredible, speaking Spanish, French and Italian at different times to get things done, truly talented and amazing💛⭐️
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Exponen la serie fotográfica "El camino de Santiago" en el Islas Malvinas
Exponen la serie fotográfica "El camino de Santiago" en el Islas Malvinas #LaPlata #Cultura #Fotografía
Hasta el jueves 5 de septiembre, la Municipalidad de La Plata presenta la exposición fotográfica “El camino de Santiago” en el Centro Cultural Islas Malvinas, una muestra que invita a conocer uno de los itinerarios de peregrinación más significativos de la cultura occidental. Según se informó, la exposición podrá visitarse de lunes a domingo de 10 a 20 horas en la Sala Mugafo del espacio cultural…
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#American Pilgrims on the Camino#Centro Cultural Islas Malvinas#cultura occidental#El camino de Santiago#El Camino de Santiago film Festival#exposición fotográfica#fotografía#Instituto Cervantes de Chicago#La Plata#Manuel Varcárcel Cabo#Martiniano Ferrer Picado#Municipalidad#sala MUGAFO
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In other but possibly related news, I emailed someone to ask if they still have spots available for a retreat thing in Spain in January
It’s a week-long Spanish-language intensive, for Anglicans, hosted by the Anglican Centre in Santiago de Compostela—they hold Anglican services in English at least once week in a smaller church not far from the cathedral for any pilgrims who aren’t Roman Catholic. They also own a pension, which is a bit like a small hotel or bed&breakfast, and the fee includes staying there for the week.
Like. It’s. Literally a Spanish class aimed at Anglicans/Episcopalians who are obsessed with the Camino! Every afternoon there’s going to be trips to museums and cultural stuff and we’ll be doing evensong from the Spanish translation of the (Episcopal) Book of Common Prayer.
It could not be more My Thing if it was *trying* lol omg
(If you’re new here I did the Camino de Santiago in April/May of 2023, and I’m Episcopalian, which is the American branch of the Anglican Church.)
There is some humor in knowing that Galicia (which is the part of Spain Santiago de Compostela is in) has its own language…that isn’t Spanish. But Galician (which is closer to European Portuguese) isn’t super common outside of Galicia.
Anyway tell the woman running this thing to email me back so I can put in the time off request and buy plane tickets aaaaugh
Dunno if my Wellbutrin is working that fast (it’s been nearly a week since I restarted it) or if it’s placebo effect but I’m not complaining
(Lol “restart” the last time I took it was 2011)
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Day 36 - Las Herrerias to Fonfria
Today was the last of our big hill days. Over the course of the day our ascent has been 1039m, with the first 678m climbed in the first few hours. My phone is showing over 14 miles. Nonetheless, we’re not feeling too bad at the moment!
We set off about 20 past 7 and we could see low cloud ahead. We were hoping that we would climb above it rather than it hanging around throughout the whole climb. Leaving the village in the early morning light we initially walked uphill on the road up through some lovely green countryside before the path started to climb on a dirt path. It reminded me very much of walking our local tracks in Wales.
Up and up we went to the first village. It was still early so we pushed on to the next village for breakfast. The path left the woodlands and came out into an open area where we were indeed rewarded with amazing views with the cloud below us.
A final push to the next village and we found a cafe open for breakfast. The last part of the climb was relatively mild in comparison to the first two sections, we even had a mountain biker pass us huffing and puffing away.
We finally emerged at the top and O Cebreiro. The views back down were tremendous. O Cebreiro is also a very quirky place, there are quite a few thatched houses which we hadn’t seen before. According to the book it’s also where more people start the Camino from, but we didn’t find it too busy.
The countryside on the other side of the hill looked so Welsh! Even the hedgerow flowers reminded us of home - dandelions, buttercups, forgetmenots, daisies and the odd bluebell. The fields were full of wild flowers and the paths undulated by the side of a very quiet main road.
We stopped for coffee at a place that was also the village shop. Shortly afterwards, at the top of a rise, we came across a statue of a pilgrim heading west. Someone had left an envelope for pilgrims to open, so we did and there was a sweet note inside.
A few more kilometres later at the end of a nasty climb and with our stomachs starting to rumble we came across a cafe where we ate a huge slab of tortilla each. As we were sitting outside a group of horse riders arrived, de mounted and had a beer which the resident dog objected noisily to.
Also pecking about under the tables were some hens and a cockerel!
According to the map, it would all downhill from there, and it was more or less. A couple of miles later we arrived at our Albergue.
It’s a fab place. There is a great hangout area with comfy sofas, we both have bottom bunks in a large well spaced out bunk room complete with real sheets (not the usual paper ones), and duvets. We’ve got little bedside lights and cupboards with electric points in. When we arrived the lady on reception saw our stamp for Casa Susi where we were a few days ago and said that they were all friends. I could see why as even though this place is very much bigger, it has a similar vibe.
After showers and washing through my smalls I sat and worked out how many miles my phone has walked. It’s showing 424 miles at the moment (it’ll also include post walk wanders).
Jane went off to have a drink with Deiter, one of the Germans we met a while back, while I did some admin. I joined Jane a bit later and she was sat talking to two Americans, Rick and Richard, who work in the wine industry.
At 7 we went for the communal meal. It was held in a separate traditional round building like the ones in O Cebreiro. The food was fabulous and very much traditional to the area, starting with a vegetable broth, then a really tender beef stew with rice, followed by a local cake that tasted like it had ground almonds in.
As we left the dining hall the neighbouring farm was bringing the cows in for the night.
We’re now back chilling in our bunks. Tomorrow will be shorter at 11.5 miles. It will still be a bit undulating but nothing compared to today!
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Camino De Santiago - Round 5
Spain travel log, 2021…
Day One:
September 20 - Depart Seattle for Madrid, by way of London. There were plenty of issues just getting to this point. In addition to the ongoing concerns over COVID-19, or perhaps because of them, I had some serious concerns about whether I could and whether I should do this trip at all. In the end, I think I simply realized that it was totally appropriate for me to go on this trip: I’ve been “responsible” and taken the full round of vaccinations, generally avoided social contacts with people and been diligent about the masks. So I made my reservations and thought everything was fine. About 2 weeks before takeoff, I got an email from Iberia that one of my flights had been changed. When I looked into it, I found that it was the connecting flight from London to Madrid and the schedule had been bumped up by about 6 hours taking me from having a 2 hour layover in Heathrow to needing to be on a plane for Madrid 4 hours before I actually landed in London and would be able to board it… It took attempts at phone calls over several days to get this corrected. Finally, I tried while I was at top work one morning around 5:00 am. I finally got through and a nice lady helped rebook my connecting flight. She found the only available flight on that day that would work; now I have a seven hour layover.
I prepped for my trip, checklists and routes planned. I arrived at the airport 3 hours early, just in case. Although I booked with Iberia, it was a British flight. So standing in line at the BA counter in SeaTac, I saw the sign: “All passengers must show proof of a negative COVID test.” What? I’d already checked multiple times; I only need proof of vaccination to get into Spain. I check the internet. Sure enough, if you’re on a layover in England, you need a negative test…A quick Google search helped me find a testing center at SeaTac airport, so I rushed down to baggage claim number nine to see if I could get a test in time. In all honesty, I really thought I wasn’t going to make it and I’d have to try to contact the airline again to find a way to reschedule my flight. I stood in the line for what seemed like forever, but finally had the privilege of paying $250 for a rapid COVID test. T- minus 2 hours 30 minutes to departure and they promised results in 1-1.5 hours. The test itself was relatively painless. After all of the horror stories I’d heard about the nasal swabs, I was a bit worried. But it didn’t hurt, it just tickled a little bit. I waited, and waited…it seemed like they would never have my results. While I waited, I heard stories from other travelers who had missed flights or rebooking because of these ridiculous COVID-related requirements. One young Canadian lady I spoke to shared that she’d spent over $1000 on COVID tests in the last month due to traveling. I guess my $250 wasn’t so much.
I finally got my negative test results and rushed back to the check in counter, filled out the required government forms and headed through security. The flight was delayed.
After a nine hour flight to London, I had seven or eight hours to kill in Heathrow Airport, Terminal 5, before boarding my flight to Madrid. I shopped, I ate, I listened to podcasts. I took a few naps and generally cursed British Airways for changing my original flight. Some Italian guy made quite a scene at the boarding gate for the flight to Madrid. The gate agent handled it quite well and passive-aggressively punished him for his demeanor.
I arrived in Madrid after an easy flight on Iberia, made my way to the metro and on to my Hostel. It was a nice enough place. After 28 hours of travel, I was ready for a shower and bed.
Day 2:
On my one day in Madrid, I walked from my hostel/hotel to the Museo Nacional del Prado. It’s Spain’s greatest art museum. This was my second time there and I spent a lot more of it. There are so many amazing pieces and, for someone who used to truly despise art, it was amazing. I highly recommend it. I haven’t been to a whole lot of art museums, but it is, by far, my favorite. I followed that with a walk through the Royal Botanical Gardens. I’m sure they’re great when all of the flowers are blooming, but in early fall, it’s just a lot of green. Either way, it was still peaceful. I visited another nearby park, walked around and viewed the statues, and then made my way back towards the hotel and passed it to go to the Cathedral opposite the royal palace. It’s a much more modern cathedral than the ones I’ll see on the Camino, but still impressive.
Day 3:
On the morning of the third day, I got up early and got packed. Took the metro to the train station and purchased a ticket to Leon. After two hours on the train, I took a 20 minute walk to the hotel and dropped off my bag, and then spent the next few hours wandering the city. I found a barber and got a haircut for 9 Euro, quite a bargain. Stopped at the “Taste of America” shop to get a bottle of hot sauce (Cholula, of course), and just meandered around the city until I could get checked in at the hotel. It was a pretty uneventful day, which is just what I needed. I was still very tired from all of the traveling and trying to swap schedules.
Day 4:
I got up late, around 8:00 AM and started walking the city. I stopped for a cafe con leche and met a Scottish couple who had been walking the Camino for the last few weeks. While we waited out the rain under cover, the shared with me some of their other walking adventures, including tales of walking through the Swiss Alps on the Via Francigena, a pilgrimage route to Rome. I may have to look into that for a future trip. I also shared with them my plans/considerations of taking a walk on the “Great Glen Way” in Scotland. The wife had already done this and highly recommended it, along with the West Highland Way. Both are approximately 5-day walks through some of the wild country of Scotland. When the rain let up, we parted ways and I went to tour the Cathedral, toured the Basilica of Saint Isidore and wandered around town, shopping and eating. Inside the Saint Isidore museum and basilica, i had the opportunity to see what is referred to as the “Sistine Chapel of Romanesque Art” as well as a gold and silver cup that some historians claim is the “holy grail.”
Day 5:
Didn’t sleep much…I forgot how much they like to party in Spain. It was LOUD all night long. Anyway, started my walk. Today was about 27 km and it rained through about 50% of the day. It was a mix of roads and dirt tracks. I only saw one other pilgrim, a Spaniard who doesn’t speak any English. I got ahead of him and had stopped for a rest at a picnics table on top of a mountain. He showed up a few minutes behind me and I tried to chat for a minute, but the language barrier…. I offered him half of my tangerine and then he took off again. I passed him up later. I had been slightly worried about where to stay for the night as the municipal albergue in this province/state are currently closed due to the ‘Rona, but when I got to town I found a pension with rooms available. The lovely lady named Susana showed me to a room and also worked tirelessly to make me a reservation for the following night. I hadn’t eaten much for the day, so I ordered big: hot dog and patatas oil bravas. Patatas bravas is a traditional dish in Spain which is made of fried potatoe cubes that are covered in a (typically) spicy tomato sauce. Potatoes Ali Oli are the same fried potatoes but with a garlic cream sauce instead of the spicy sauce. This one combined both sauces. It was nice. The inside of the restaurant/bar/cafe was very loud with a bunch of men playing a card game I’m not familiar with, so I went outside to have a beer. An older Spaniard, named Hilario, came out and started trying to talk to me. I explained that I am American and I don’t speak much Spanish, but he disagreed. So he went inside and got another man, a Hungarian who had been in Spain for the last 25 years, named Fernanco(?) who was extremely drunk, to come out and talk to me. He was so drunk, he introduced himself as “muy borracho” or “very drunk” and the proceeded to tell me that he used to be a muy Thai fighter and a coal miner and now he was just a fat drunk who collected money from the government because he got hit in the head too many times. At least I THINK that’s what they were saying…. I went to bed early to get a good rest and let my aching feet and hips recover before a long day tomorrow….from La Robla to Poladura, should be about 25km or so with some very intense climbs. We’ll see.
I’m currently on the Camino San Salvador, which is a route from Leon to Oviedo. They say “whoever goes to Santiago without visiting Oviedo, goes to the servant but not to the Lord.” This is because Oviedo is famous for having a specific relic. While most people are aware of the Shroud of Turin, which is the burial cloth of Jesus, many don’t know (including me, until recently) that traditional Jewish burial included placing a cloth over the face of the deceased immediately after death and until the body was prepared for burial. This cloth would then be removed and the full-body cloth would be applied. So anyway, this Cathedral boasts possession of the face covering that was placed over Jesus’ head, likely immediately after the spear pearled his side and before he was brought down off of the cross. Once I complete the Camino San Salvador (about 5 days, I hope), I will continue on to the Camino Primitivo, one of the many Camino’s de Santiago. So the Camino San Salvador goes to the relics of Christ and the Camino Santiago (Santiago = Saint James) goes to the resting place and remains of Saint James (the major), also known as “Santiago Matamoros” or “Saint James the Moor Slayer”, the patron saint of Spain.
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twenty tag
tagged by: @yeeun :)) tagging: @minkyunmonet / @sowthesun / @proseeuhn / @unlimitedsf9 (but only if y’all want to/feel comfortable doing so of course!)
name/nickname: haley
pronouns: she/her
star sign: pisces
height: 5′4 or 163 cm
time: 11am
birthday: march 12!
fave bands: the band camino, mom jeans, one ok rock, lany, nothing but thieves, the paper kites (jo did all bands with instrumentals so i’m following suit)
fave solo artists: rina sawayama, mary lambert, troye sivan, taemin (idk if he is technically a solo artist bc shinee’s back!! but i love his solo works!!), sasha sloan
song stuck in my head: lollipop by imfact (this song is so catchy fr)
last movie: push (lmaoo)
last show: idk i think cherry magic?
when i created this blog: last summer!
last thing i googled: i think i was looking up the meaning of a russian word bc i’m reading a book rn that is set in medieval russia and i wanted more context! i’m pretty sure the word was gosudar
other blogs: @cheesinlikecheddar (i’ve def reblogged stuff from jo onto this blog lol)
do i get asks: yeah sometimes, mainly from my lovely mutuals! i don’t think i’ve ever gotten an anon ask tho!
followers: uh not that many lol (but i appreciate y’all!)
following: more than follow me :)) (which is good my dash is poppin!)
why i chose my url: completely = the onf song complete! fused = the onf fandom name fused!
average hours of sleep: 5-6
instruments: i used to play piano and the trumpet! and still know basics
what i’m wearing: sweatshirt/sweatpants/beanie (typical combo for me)
dream trip: i’d love to go to iceland bc the geology there is insane!!
favorite food: pho, sushi, mac n cheese :)) (i’m craving pho so bad rn!)
nationality: american
favorite song: complete - onf, scott pilgrim vs my gpa - mom jeans, see through - the band camino
top 3 fictional universes i’d like to live in: percy jackson and the olympians (camp half blood baby!), lord of the rings (specifically rivendell), and howl’s moving castle probably
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Pilgrimage to the Crestone Ziggurat
Crestone, Colorado is a spiritual center that includes an astonishing array of sacred sites. Within walking distance of this small international village are ashrams, monasteries, zendos, temples, chapels, retreat centers, stupas, shrines, medicine wheels, labyrinths, a ziggurat and other sacred landmarks. Most of Crestone’s major religious centers are sheltered in the juniper and pine forests on the lower slopes of the mountains south of town. The Camino de Crestone is a 26 mile inter-faith pilgrimage that visits 15 of the spiritual centers.
Since moving to Crestone, my wife, Elisia, and I have made pilgrimages to many of the area’s sacred sites. Although pilgrimage may seem an antiquated religious ritual, it remains a vibrant activity in the modern world as pilgrims combine traditional motives—such as seeking a remedy for physical or spiritual problems—with contemporary searches for identity or interpersonal connection. That pilgrimage continues to exercise such a strong attraction is testimony to the power it continues to hold for those who undertake these sacred journeys. Pilgrimage has been an essential component of my spiritual practice for over 30 years.
Our first local pilgrimage was to the Crestone Ziggurat, a nearby landmark built by Najeeb Halaby, father of Queen Noor of Jordan, for prayer and meditation. Halaby, an American of Syrian Christian descent, built the Ziggurat in 1978 as a representation of the Zoroastrian gateway to heaven. Ziggurat comes from an ancient Assyrian word ziffurantu, meaning light pinnacle. A ziggurat, by definition, is a temple tower with an outside staircase that leads to a shrine at the top. The first of these temple structures were built in ancient Mesopotamia, or what is now Iraq. The purpose of a ziggurat is to get closer to heaven, the home of the gods; in fact the people of Mesopotamia believed a ziggurat connected Heaven and Earth. Essentially, a ziggurat represents a stairway to Heaven where one can commune with the divine.
Elisia and I walked to the ziggurat, which rises from a hill on the easternmost edge of the San Luis Valley less than two miles from our house. The wind began to gust as we made our way up the switchback trail to the castle-like observatory, which had been stuccoed a golden ochre color. The ascent up the rail-less ramp was treacherous due to the gusting winds. I hugged the inside wall of the structure as I made my way up the 40-foot tall tower. I stood on the summit and took in the stunning views of the San Luis Valley, one of the highest and largest alpine valleys in the world, encompassing an area of 8,000 square miles. The flat, expansive valley is ringed by the San Juan Mountains of the Continental Divide on the west side and the Sangre de Cristos on the east side. It is a truly inspiring place for prayer and meditation.
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