#A Little Off the Square Lumber and Liquidation Etc.

[uniqueartisanconnoisseur]

The Agriculture and Blues Connection

The Mississippi Delta is the heart of where the blues began. The blues began in the fields. They originate from the days of sharecroppers. Before that the slaves sang spiritual field hollers while they worked. American blacks in the early part of the century sang their stories. These stories evolved into what we know today as the blues. This mural is at the Gateway to the Blues Museum in…

[rahirah]

Restoring A Mid-Century Modern Dining Chair

What you will need:

A Chair 4 Rubber Chair Feet Upholstery Material, approx 18x18 " About a dozen short nails (about ½ " long -- roofing nails or carpet tacks will do) OR a heavy-duty staple gun & staples.

3-4 ½" screws A Hammer A Saw A Screwdriver

Optional Extras:

Padding A Drill 8-12 medium nails 1 ½ to 2 " long depending on depth of seat (you will only need these if you are using cross pieces.)

Where to Get Supplies:

Very often, places like Lowes or Home Depot will have a scrap lumber bin, where you can get boards super cheap.  You have to check carefully before you buy, because very often the reason a board gets chucked into the scrap bin is that it’s warped.  And it’s a grab bag as to what will be there at any given time.  Still, you can get decent wood for small projects there at reasonable prices if you keep an eye out.

For padding and upholstery, if you don’t want to buy outrageously expensive new fabric, check for places near you that sell mill-end fabric and scrap leather.  Or you can repurpose old coats, quilts, comforters, etc.

For hardware, your local hardware store should have everything you need.    Don’t be intimidated by rows of specialty nails and screws.  A nail is pretty much a nail.  There’s a flat end and a pointy end.  All you need to know is, what’s the combined thickness of the things you’re going to be nailing or screwing together?  Then pick nails or screws that are long enough to go past the half-way point of that thickness, but not longer than the total thickness.  Heavier things need heavier nails, and lighter things need lighter nails.  Simple!

Step 1: Find A Chair

This is a chair that's been knocking around since I was a kid. It sat in my Mom’s back yard for about fifty years, and looks it.  However, I think it looks kind of cool, and I wanted to fix it up.

I cleaned the iron frame up with a damp cloth to remove surface dirt and debris, but I decided that I wanted to leave the weathered, rustic look of the iron as it was.  If you do want to clean minor rust like this and make it look black and shiny again, you can use either a commercial rust cleaner, or you can use a 50/50 mixture of vinegar and water.  Once the rust has been removed, and the iron is dry, you can wipe it down with liquid car wax and buff it with a rag to make it more rust-resistant.

Step 2: Replace Rubber Feet

The old feet on this chair had worn completely through.  Since it's iron, you don't want the bare legs scratching up your floors, or making nails-on-chalkboard screeches every time you move the chair.  Replacing the rubber feet is easy: just measure the diameter of the legs, go to your local hardware store, and buy new ones.

Step 3: Check the integrity of the seat.

If you're lucky, whatever the base of your seat is will be in good condition, and you can just strip off the old upholstery and padding, and re-cover it.  (You may even be able to keep the padding.)  In this case, that wasn't an option.  This chair has been rained on a million times, and the plywood was disintegrating.  I took it off and threw the whole seat away.  (The web is old.  No spiders were harmed in the restoration of this chair.)

Step 4:  Replace the Seat (if necessary)

I did not have any plywood on hand, and the local hardware place does not sell plywood, and I didn't feel like running all the way across town to Lowe's.  So I bought a 3′ length of 2x8 lumber instead.  I cut it down into two 15-inch lengths.  Put together, this made a 15x15" square.  (Because 2x8s are actually 2x 7.5s.  It's confusing.)  This was slightly smaller than the original plywood seat, which was 15x16″, but that was no big deal.  

I have a table saw, so that's what I used to cut the wood.  However, you can also use a hand-held circular saw, or even a manual hand saw.  If you are using a hand saw, manual or electric, unless you have an inhumanly good eye and steady hand, you will probably want to use a straight-edge and a pencil to mark your cutting lines first.  It is also a good idea to have either A) someone to hold the wood still for you, or B) a working surface to which you can clamp the wood.  If you can't keep your wood steady, you WILL end up with a crooked, ragged cut.  And if you're using a circular saw, you could seriously injure yourself if your wood wobbles and causes kickback.  

If you're using any kind of power tools, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS FIRST and follow them.  You don't want to fight with a power tool; it will win.

If I had wanted to get fancy, I could have used wood glue and a couple of clamps to glue the two pieces together.  But I was being impatient, and didn't want to wait for the glue to dry.  So instead, I used the new upholstery to hold the two pieces together until I could nail on supporting crossbars.  (See Step 6.)

Select and Trim New Upholstery

You can use anything you like here – fabric, leather, vinyl.  The only caveat is that thin fabrics will wear out more quickly, and very heavy fabric or leather can be more difficult to fold nicely at the corners.  I'm using mid-weight leather for this particular piece.  

Whatever you use, invest in a good pair of sewing shears to cut it.  Trying to use craft scissors to cut cloth or leather will drive you nuts.  If you are using very heavy leather, an Xacto knife (one of the big ones) might work even better.  If you're using an Xacto, make sure that you have a surface to cut on that you don't mind scratching up.  (And of course, be careful and use good knife safety.)

Cut your upholstery AT LEAST 2 inches larger than your seat all around.  Remember to account for the depth of the seat and any padding as well as the breadth.  If you're using fabric that frays easily, you will probably want to turn the edge under, so add extra for that.   You can always trim extra length off, but you can't untrim a piece that's too short.

Step 6: Attach New Padding/Upholstery

If you are replacing or adding more padding, then place it between your seat base and the upholstery material before you attach the upholstery material. I decided that since my primary purpose for the chair was to put it next to my closet to throw clothes on, and this was never going to be a Comfy Chair no matter what I did, that I didn't need to bother with padding.

Since I was using moderately heavy leather, I trimmed away some excess at each corner of the seat so that it would fold more easily.  Again, be careful and don't trim off too much.  I used a mixture of carpet tacks and roofing nails to attach the leather to the wood (the roofing nails were for the corners, where I wanted something sharper to get through the multiple layers of leather.)  Basically any short, sturdy nail will do.  OR if you have a heavy-duty staple gun, that would also work well.  Make sure you stretch your material evenly.  It can be helpful to have a partner at this stage to hold the material even while you tack it on.

Once the leather was attached, I nailed cross bars (two 13″ 2x4s) onto each of the sides to keep the two seat pieces together.  As you can probably tell, the 2x4 was just an old one I happened to have in my scrap lumber supplies.   Since the frame of the chair is screwed directly to the two seat pieces, I suppose I COULD have left the crossbars off, but I wanted the extra stability.  Ideally I would have used framing nails to attach the crossbars, but I was out of framing nails, so I used finishing nails instead.  (Like I said, for a project this small, nails is nails.)  I made sure to measure the iron seat frame first, and attach the crossbars so that there would be room enough between them to screw the frame of the chair to the seat.

There are four nails per cross bar -- because they’re finishing nails, they’re hard to see.

Step 7: Reattach Seat

Once the seat was put together, I screwed the metal frame of the chair onto the seat, right between the cross pieces.  Weirdly, this particular chair only has three screws holding the seat to the frame; most chairs of this general type use four.  I re-used the original screws.  Optionally, you can use a drill to start your screw holes.  Be sure to pick a drill bit a little smaller than the diameter of your screws.

And voila, one restored Mid-Century Modern chair!  

[margaretmgq649-blog]

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