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Friday 15 May 1840

2 ¾ a. m.

12

R14 ½° at 3 a.m. could not sleep for heat and fleas – these arched Earth-covered rooms very close – 2 little windows about 24x18in.? pierce the 2 or 3ft. thick walls (ours a corner room) – should guess the room about 5x4 yards and perhaps about 4 yards high to the crown of the arch – I could not live comfortably in the Eastern souterrain houses – too cellar-like – Caravanserai court 50x60 yards the latter and longer the entrance side – must have been handsome in its day – now a heap of ruins inside – all the rooms but 6 or 7 roofless and more or less filled with rubbish – probably about 50 rooms – the town very picturesque – surrounded by ruins extending to a considerable distance – on the river Ganja – wood bridge over it – mountains become hills (left) at Elizabethpol [Elizavetpol'], and (right) (going towards Baku) seem to leave us now at 6 a.m. and the eye wanders up endless plain to the right – charming drive over the plain wide open valley the snow mountains still fine (right) to here Kuraktchaiskii Redu

4 ½ to 6 Elizabethpol [Elizavetpol'] to Kuraktchaiskii Reu 19 versts

6 ¼ to 7 28/.. K- to Kurulutchaiskii 20

good house   7 55/.. to 11 20/.. the ferry over the Kour 13v. from P. Tchemaklinskii K- to Post Tchemaklinksii 33 1/7

11 53/.. to 1 20/.. Post T- to Aranskii 18

1 35/.. to 3 12/.. A- to Turiantchaiskoi 17

4 ¾ to 6 ¼ T- to Goktchaiskoi 21

6 ¾ to 8 50/.. G- to Karamarianskoi 17

145 1/7

charming drive over the plain – wide open valley – the snow mountains still fine right station house at Kuraktchaiskii the same sort of station house as ever since Tiflis – charming drive – woody – mulberry some oak and elm – and shrubby, grenadier myrtle? jujubier? and Tamarisk in flower beautiful little pink flowers in bunches in grappes – something in the style of the lilack flower bunches – 5 hares rans [ran] across us – plenty of game here – excellent narrow hard sand road – rain in the night laid the dust for us – we near the hills over the Kour – very fine – broken and picturesque – beautiful day – sun warm from before 7 a.m. Read more interesting from Astapha the river – the station house there – and still more some from Elizabethpol [Elizavetpol'] – abundance of sheep and cattle – oxen yesterday also loaded like horses – almost all (or all?) the sheep with the fat tails, like a large 2 or 3in. thick flap covering the while buttock with a little tail turned up in the middle and this and the inside part of the flap often a little turned and exposed to view, naked, looking queer and not very nice – the station house on an eminence – magnificent aspens in the hollow there down to the little stream, and small leafed willows and wild vines, and mulberry trees and snow mountains right (i.e. south – i.e. right as one goes to Baku) charming – the Kurtchai river in right at the foot of the fine range of hill – the Kour (the say) on the other side of this range separated by, as it were, a tongue of land from the range of hill or mountain seen beyond it from here – at 8 35/.. cross the picturesque little Thchura, a little winding stream hid among sand rock banks and shrubs – at 9 25/.. close under the white broken picturesque indurated sand mountains and at 9 ½ at the ferry of the Kour, the rapid muddy Kour, broad as the Thames at Richmond? 2 rades – raft or broad platform fixed on 3 tree-boats – one raft for the carriage and another for the 9horses (our own five, and the Cossacks’ four) and 3 single tree-boats but we

preferred going with the carriage and sat outsides on the servants seat for the sake of the fine view up and down the river – Embarked in 10 minutes at 9 ¾ kept close under the highish sand bank covered with willow bushes etc. very picturesque for 7 ½ minutes before we attempted to cross then crossed in 7 minutes more (over in 14 minutes at 9 59/..) the current having carried us almost twice as far down as we had gone up? –

the current took us at least 100 yards down the stream

so that we made some such track as from a to b and then from b to c the horses crossed in the same way a little lower down the river – we landed 1st and as we stood looking at them the Raft seemed almost as if running away with the current rather than coming to land about a hundred yards lower down than ourselves – 3 men and our Cossack with a little short oar as it were long shafted (or spade) paddled or worked against the stream between our tree boats and one at [?] outside and this was all the force we had – the sand-rock mountains everywhere sillonnées, accidentées, - ridgy and hillocky – very striking and picturesque – white and [?] – merely sprinkled with little treefts of some sort of grass? or what? Left bank of river, as it sweeps from the mountains, wooded – all the wood today in full foliage – beautiful wooded banks down the river and upwards – sand rock mountains and a fringe of wood on right bank – pretty scene – 3 tree-boats with 2 men each scattered on the river below us – large group of cattle at our landing place and the queer camel-gaited elephant-skimmed cattle lying done in the river near the edge with their faces resting on the water all the rest covered except perhaps a bit of the back – on landing we were 13v. from the station and .:. 37 1/7 – 13 = 20 1/7 v. from our last station Kurulutchaiskii – began to embark at 8 35/.. to 9 ¾ - over at 9 59/.. off again at 10 25/.. .:. the ferry had taken us – had delayed us 50 minutes – new sort of station house at Post Tchemaklinskii – more picturesque and cottage-like – 2 little gable-ended porches – very small windows – very neat and pretty – nicest station house since Tiflis, - nice carpeted room à l’orientale, and on the opposite side the court, the neat gable-end-porched Cossack barrack – should have liked to sleep here -     at 12 20/.. in 2 minutes pass the Aranskii river pronounced Arceski – beautiful day – fine air – the plain prettily shrubbed with zugube? and another winged leafed shrub the wood of which smells agreeably enough on being broken – no horses – off with the same at 1 35/.. – at 1 ¾ meet return horses and change 3 of ours and 1 of our drivers, and off again in 18 minutes! at 2 3/.. – at 3 8/.. Toorhan river broad stoney bed, 5 or 6 streams – at the station at 3 12/.. – good grass the last 2 stages all along – ray grass? or very like it and other grasses by dint of irrigation – the station house here, Turiantchaisko, faces the fine mountain glen, or small valley of the Toorhan (Tarian river) 20v. from the Lesghiens – they came down 2 years ago, and burnt the house and assassinated all the people at the station – no sentinel there and peu de monde – now a sentinel every night, and 8 Cossacks and 8 Tartars stationed here – the present house new and not quite in the old situation but rather lower down – saw one or 2 partly burnt beams lying about – the station houses on the other side the Kura (Kour) built 10 years ago – those on this side the Kour only built 3 years ago – from this station to the next and next after the most dangerous – having to

SH:7/ML/E/24/0106

wait, went into the neat house – ½ hour at writing out accounts – from here we have double escort 4 Cossacks and 4 Tartars – sand mountains near left – Plain as far as one can see right – some hills (left) nice, sweet, short grass pasture as in England – steppe à parte de vue right – at Goktchaiskoi at 6 ¼ - Left, the picturesque, ridgy, hillocky furrowed, water-worn, white calcareous, sandrock hills – not good sleeping here – taken with a sort of lock wooden bolt – order one to be made (by the joiner there) and ready by Thursday or Friday night – off again at 6 ¾ - at 6 55/.. at river of same name as the station, that must be Goktchai (Tchai = river in Tartar) – cross the broad shallow streamy river – obliged to choose our way and go round about a little to get out of the streams the more easily (the horses along this road from Tiflis never what we should call true drawn) and it was 22 minutes before we got clear the river of streams and rough bed – at Karamarianskoi at 8 50/.. – tea at 9 50/.. in ¾ hour  then as the two last nights did big and little job out of doors  very fine day – F68 ½° and R66 ¼° now at 11 p.m. beautiful moonlight night – lay down at 12

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