#70degree

[annastrxng]

Anna jumping into a FREEZING cold Sound is always so underestimated

[sauntervaguelydown]

easy home gardening suggestions

Are you bad at eating the vegetables you buy? Do you feel like everything goes bad before you can eat it? KEEP IT FRESH ON THE VINE. Or at least, pickle it yourself.

You will need: pots (plastic is fine, terra cotta is drier, glazed ceramic retains moisture best). Dirt (surprisingly cheap but very heavy). Sunshine (free).

(I live in a humid part of the USA, these tips are not meant for deserts)

Container options: all your containers NEED drainage holes, but if you're a freak like me, you can take any sturdy plastic thing with sides & a bottom and nail/drill/MELT holes into it. Storage tubs may be a cheap alternative. Don’t hold the tub upside down and melt the excess plastic with matches directly onto your human hand. Burn bandages are expensive. Or just steal old ceramic pots from your aging grandmother.

Container Gardening

BELL PEPPERS: if you get half a day at least of direct sun, you can grow bell peppers. They do want warm weather so either you have to put them inside your house in a very sunny window or wait until it's 70degrees F or more. Remember that flowers do need to be pollinated by SOMETHING. Note that if you're planting them in containers, deeper is better; bell pepper tap roots can go 3 feet down if you let them. Minimum of 12 inches. If you have time but no money, scrape the seeds from dinner and plant them. If you have money but no time, try to buy one sprouted from the local plant nursery. Outdoors you will get caterpillars, but in my experience they are very polite and do not attack the fruit, so they're fine. You can grow three pepper plants per foot diameter of dirt surface.

OTHER PEPPERS: generally all peppers have the same needs, although my hot peppers seem a bit less thirsty than my bell peppers. I bought some already-growing hot peppers from the local plant nursery and they have been EXTREMELY productive; some "hot" peppers like mine (a Holy Mole pepper) actually make great mild salad greens if you scrape the spicy seeds out & pick while still green. Minimum of a foot deep containers, deeper is better if you can manage it. Full sun.

SCALLIONS: with green onions/scallions, you know the big thick ones they sell in the store with the roots still on? buy a couple and plant them in a pot of dirt in the sun and you'll have infinite green onion leaves. They can stand freezing weather if you cover them. It got down to 20 F here and I still didn't lose them. No flowers involved, just juicy crunchy leaves. They only have to be in containers 6 inches deep minimum. DO THIS.

SALAD GREENS: container gardening works well for lettuce and mustard/mizuna. Lettuce needs regular watering, it has shallow roots. You just gotta plant Mizuna when it's cold enough for the seeds to germinate (40 F ~ish). Mizuna is a hardy little guy, tolerates heat AND cold. You gotta buy the seeds, but they're cheap. Follow directions on the seed pack. This can be done (theoretically) in a sunny window indoors since they do not need pollinators. It's all LEAVES baby.

LIMA BEANS. These have deep roots and they have long tall vines; if you have the space for the roots, and any thing LIKE a trellis for the vines, and sun, you can get so many goddamn lima beans for 0 effort. Forget about these suckers you can't STOP them from fruiting.

More below the cut bc this is getting long

TOMATOES are kind of an investment; they're easy to grow from seed but they need a lot of sun & a deep pot. If you want full size beefsteak tomatoes, try a tall, lightweight plastic pot with a lot of fertilizer & consistent watering. Don’t forget the tomato cages! Those beefy boys will pull your plant over sideways. The lightweight pot will allow you to move the pot inside if you have a sudden deluge of rain that will waterlog & split the fruit. You can try planting seed from harvested dinner, but you may end up with some much smaller tomatoes than what you harvested from. It’s something to do with commercial hybrids.

TBH i recommend growing a cherry tomato, you get more fruit and you're less likely to lose it to bugs/sudden rain/general bad luck. Buy some ripe in the store and harvest the seeds. Do not try to grow indoors, you need pollinators & sun. Sensitive to cold. Giant green caterpillars will try to consume your entire tomato plant. You must catch them before they succeed.

SPINACH is nutritious, but honestly don't bother with growing spinach past spring if you live south of the Mason-Dixon line, it likes the cold. I'm having bad lucky with it--it's either too hot or too wet or BOTH around here. My friend who gardened in the desert said they had good luck? It works in container gardens tho. Critters love to eat it. Maybe ask about it at the plant nursery.

ARUGALA: bought some already growing and it's a real champ, doesn't need much water. 6 inch depth minimum. NOTE: Once it flowers, you will not get enough leaves for a sandwich. Since then I've grown it from shed seed and it's very hardy--it actually put out a whole tap root through the bottom of my growpot and got down into the soil. Keep it watered when it's baby. The seed will sprout pretty much any time through the spring and summer.

CARROTS & BEETS:

Carrots are... more complicated. Unless you really like carrots or you really like gardening, idk if I'd recommend them for beginners. You start them from seed then thin them out so they're all at least 6 inches apart, and the seedlings wilt in the heat but they also don't like it when it's freezing so... I'm having a hard time with them. Maybe there's a breed that grows really well in your area? Ask at the local plant nursery. I did a "baby carrots" variety (sex seeds) and two survived infancy. One is still growing as of September. I'm hoping for more seeds.

Beets are less picky, and need a bit less water. But they do die off at the height of summer, so get them going while you can.

CELERY: basically the same, but less angry about the heat. Keep moist. Pick a bit & come back again for more. My seed packet said they should be ready to pick stalks in April but they definitely were not. July was really when they got big enough to eat.

ZUCCHINI: There's a lot of posts about how easy zucchini is to grow, but I think I'm in the wrong part of the country for it. Needs a lot of water, at least when it's hot outside. Definitely works for container gardening. Give it a 12 inch deep pot. TIP: put your old coffee ground in the dirt to increase the acidity. You will not get any fruit unless you have pollination, but pollinators also like to lay eggs on the leaves and eat them all to smithereens. Pickleworms have destroyed me two years in a row now. Cucumbers are the same way--and if you're gonna try cucumbers, buy a burpless variety to keep beetles away at least.

YAMS are pretty easy. They like the HEAT. They need 100% full sun. What you do is you buy a yam from the store, wait until it starts to put out growths, then (indoors) suspend it partly in some water until the green growths are at least 6 inches long. Then you can plant those growths in dirt. It's especially good if the growths have little white roots, but I've planted growths without any roots and they were fine. Healthy vines will put out runners. Suggestion: start in a deeper container but only fill it up with like 6 inches of dirt. When the yam vine gets long, add another few inches of dirt and bury some of the vine. Keep doing this until you run out of space and/or dirt. You get more yams this way. Harvest when the cold starts to make the leaves all sad and crinkly. Using fluffy light dirt makes harvest easier.

STRAWBERRIES: You'll get them one at a time, and they won't be very flavorful in many cases. They need pollinators, but squirrels steal them as soon as they're ripe. Keep under a net. They're also VERY hard to grow from seed. I have managed it, but the germination time is like... three months. Perfect container plants though. And in the summer they start putting out runners, and then you can MULTIPLY your strawberry content. Set them somewhere just out of the rain, so that the fruit won't swell up and split during a deluge, but remember to keep them moist.

BLUEBERRIES: fine for containers, although they need to be deep. Get at least two blueberry bushes so they can cross pollinate. Make sure that both varieties bloom at about the same time of year. Partial sun is fine. In winter it may go dormant but it comes back.

BLACKBERRIES and RASBERRIES are insanely low maintenance but bad for container gardening. They want a lot of space. You'd need a big container. Maybe a costco storage tub. Better off putting them in the ground, if you have a garden. But watch out, they spread.

A note about PUMPKINS: you can get a pumpkin seed to sprout basically spitting on it. I threw some dirt on a rotten halloween pumpkin and now I have a legion of leaves. However, getting them to fruit requires pollinators, and the vines take up space. I wouldn't try to grow them unless you have an actual garden with flowers (weeds are fine) or you just.... want a pretty vine to look at. Also they don't like the heat very much, even though they grow over the summer.

LEMONS: you can actually grow lemon seedlings from the seeds of regular ass grocery store lemons. They're supposed to be pretty easy to do but I haven't had much luck. Now that it's warmer out I'm gonna try again; basically just put them in some dirt and keep the dirt moist until a sprig comes up. you won't get fruit for like 5 years but the leaves smell nice. Tangerines are the same way.

I've put a couple over-ripe onions in the ground, but I don't think I'm going to get much out of it. There's a wikihow article on it. Basically you cut the bottom off an onion from the store, eat the top, and then treat the bottom like a yam. But you might as well just plant the whole thing if it's already started putting out green tendrils. Maybe you'll get flowers.

Herbs

hard Rosemary is actually difficult in most places bc it needs Mediterranean conditions ie. FULL sun, not a lot of water, warm weather. It starts to grow mold if it's not blazed 8 hours a day. Rosemary can get up to the size of a full ass bush if you give it the space. Needs 12 inches of pot depth. If you haven't got full sun, don't bother. I don't recommend growing these from seed--if you have a plant nursery anywhere near your home, just buy one there that is already established with roots. Cold hardy when large enough.

medium Basil has about the same sun needs as Rosemary, but it doesn't mildew. Basil will do the hydra thing and put out new heads of leaves if you snip them off. I'm growing it from seed and it's doing pretty good! Do not eat the flowers. Not cold hardy.

medium Ginger is a tropical shade plant, so you can grow it with no direct sunlight (it does need to get at least indirect sun). It needs really rich soil so you gotta go buy some bagged potting soil with compost, but literally you can get a healthy ginger from the store and sprinkle dirt on top and it ought to start growing. Especially if it already has little white or green fingers growing out of it. Give it a deep pot, 10 inches if possible. not cold hardy. If the soil freezes, it dies.

easy Mint: we all know it's insanely prolific. However I have managed to kill all my mint twice. I think I didn't give it a large enough container to spread out in. Aim for something at least 10 inches deep and at least a foot diameter. I know, it's a big commitment for an herb. Partial shade is fine. do NOT put it directly in the ground or it will take over. Cold hardy perennial (survives at 0 F and lower). It may go dormant but it comes back. Keep moist.

easy Oregano. Good boy. Precious child. More sun is better, and not a lot of watering. Pot only has to be 6 inches deep, though more never hurts. I've heard that cilantro and tarragon and thyme have the same root depth, but I've never tried growing them so that's all I know. If you're planting from seed, make sure it's hot outside and do Not bury the seed. It goes right on the surface of the dirt in the sunshine. 3 months from sowing to adulthood. Cold tolerant perennial; it may go dormant but it comes back.

easy Garlic: you might not be up for growing garlic from seed, but if you want to harvest the green stalks that grow up from the bulbs in spring, they are kind of like a cross between chives and garlic in flavor, and very safe to eat. Good in soup. Just buy some regular garlic and then forget it in your kitchen until the individual bulbs start poking up green shoots inside that papery wrapping stuff. Then plant them in some dirt with the green shoot pointing up. These bulbs survive VERY cold winters and thrive. It may go dormant but it comes back. If you let it go through a cold winter, you may get harvestable additional bulbs.

List of Flowers You Can Eat:

Nasturtium, violet, viola, coneflower, chrysanthemum, citrus blossoms, daisies (who knew), marigold, clover flowers (clover is good because it nitrogenates the soil). When in doubt, eat the petals only. Except for Nasturtium, i know you can eat those leaves and stems and all. They're kind of peppery.

There's actually a LOT of edible flowers I haven't begun to list. If you're curious, look into it.

Things you simply cannot grow at home: Vanilla. Cinnamon. Soy beans. Apples. Do not try. (Vanilla is an orchid. Orchids are Hard.) (Cinnamon is growable in Mexico if you keep it well watered.)

straight up, if you're gonna grow any of these, just google "how often water [x]" and then do that forever. Set a recurring calendar alarm. If they look wilty, increase how often you do it. Personally I water everything when the dirt looks dry, but that's because I'm an obsessive.

Anything sold in the store uncooked/undried that is either 1. a seed itself or 2. contains a seed (or 3. has roots attached) can PROBABLY be pirated. Nothing ventured nothing gained. Google is your friend.

Other Notes:

you CAN pollinate a lot of things by hand, if you're willing to put the effort in

"well draining" soil usually has compost material content mixed in. Sand is also well draining, but maybe a little TOO well draining. Basically, avoid clay if it needs to drain.

Most things do not need fertilizer all the time if you buy potting soil (it's pre-fertilized). However, growth costs nutrients. Keep that in mind.

You can steal dirt out of the ground for your pots but remember that it may be contaminated depending on where you get it (roadside? BAD idea). Also it's heavy as fuck. Plan accordingly.

Coffee & tea grounds are acidic and nutritious. (for plants) (don't eat them)

it's not actually a great idea to bury a moldy piece of fruit in a pot. You will get flies. I know it seems like a composting hack but don't do it.

You can put old wood cuttings & logs at the bottom of a container for plants that need a lot of nitrogen, like ginger. Make sure there's still an appropriate amount of soil between the wood and the surface.

potting SOIL contains dirt (sand/silt/clay), potting MIX is just organic matter (peat usually). Mix is fluffy, soil is denser. You can combine to get the advantages of both. Potting mix is usually a good bet for fruiting plants, but I've tried using plain ground soil for almost everything and the main problem is it just dries out faster. If you're putting things directly in the ground, just get some "gardening soil" to fill in around the roots a little bit.

pots are weirdly expensive. Scavenge and recycle what you can. I've used costco cranberry juice jugs for things, but the ridges in the plastic do retain water. Make SURE your pots are deep enough. And make sure they have a fair bit of surface diameter.

depression meal: boil one package of maruchan ramen, as many lima beans as your little hands can grab, chunk of scallion (chop if you have the energy, shred it with your fingers if not). celery? if you've got it. pour flavoring packet. add lemon juice. survive another day without scurvy.

A note on TREES

Citrus trees are easier to manage than some other kinds, but they do still need management. Citrus is very cold sensitive so if you can bring them inside as soon as it hits freezing at night, that is best. The trouble is they also need deep enough pots for their tap roots, which makes them hard to MOVE. Even with frost covering, I lost a lemon tree to a hard winter this year RIP. The good news is that after they've been in the ground about 5 years, you do not have to cover them as carefully anymore. I've got a 30 year old tangerine tree that went dormant this winter and then came back kicking, and I didn't cover it a single inch.

Peach trees are also fairly cold sensitive, but they need a minimum number of cold nights (40 F or lower) to produce fruit. So uh. Either cover them with a frost cloth as soon as it gets freezing out, or bring them inside in a big pot but leave them outside as long as you can. I wouldn't try to grow one from seed personally, but I've bought a couple saplings. Look for a variety that does well in your climate. Your local university might have made a hybrid.

You can grow and make your own tea leaves; the tree is a specific variety of Camellia. Grows well in the southern USA.

"pawpaw" trees are a fruit tree native to north-east america, cultivated by american indians. They're pretty cool. They grow well on the sides of hills. You can buy dormant saplings in the winter/late spring online. You need at least one male and one female. Deep tap roots.

You can GROW a banana tree, but you can't make it fruit unless you're in a tropical climate. I wouldn't bother. Even subtropical doesn't cut it.

Figs are cool but keep in mind that lots of people are allergic to their leaves.

In the case of most trees, long term, a pot is not a good idea, but for the first few years it's fine. Remember that every year the roots get bigger.

If you have a commercially sold tree seedling, the chances are it's been grafted at some point. If there's a knot or a notable bend in the lower part of the trunk, that's the graft point. Stuff that grows below that knot is going to be Not Delicious. Pick off growths below the graft point.

A note on COMPOST:

composting is a great way to enrich your shit, but watch out, because it also produces mildew, mold, flies, and scavengers.

The lowest effort version of composting is simply to take your tea leaves/coffee grounds out of the pot when you're done with them and let them dry out somewhere--a bowl or a tupperware, idk--then save them to mix into your potting soil later. Minimum amount of fungus, no bugs. You can do this in your house. Unbleached paper also works, and basically any "dry" organic material.

The more intense version includes things like egg shells, banana skins, things that will attract pests and grow mold. You don't want this in your house. Also the shells of beans, discarded lettuce greens, tops of strawberries--etc. Most of this stuff is of too little caloric value to attract rats, so it's okay to keep near your house.

But the more "food" stuff you start to add, like rotten vegetables and table scraps, the more rat appealing it becomes. Don't get over ambitious. That stuff needs to be 50 ft away from your house minimum.

[plumbrosia]

since 2018 ive become super anxious with change and change in season. it makes me feel a sense of impending doom. i didnt used go be so sensitive to changes, or at the very least not this terrified. As a kid i was so happy go lucky and only felt this feeling when everyone in my family were in the same room (because it was so unusual). being sick was never fun but i didnt put so much meaning on it as i do now.

i feel like every season is a new chapter and every new chapter has a painful health event. i'm most comfortable on a 70degree sunny spring day. and this year that was an incredibly short window. i felt cold and trapped most of the time. i'm super sensitive to weather. when it got cold in 2019 my hands cracked and i got eczema again which has been an ongoing battle. in the summer i had some kind of fainting spell where everything smelled like acetone. last fall i got mosquito bites that made my ankle swell so bad i couldnt walk. last winter i got sick with the first cold i had in years and it beat my ass. last spring i got covid.

so i guess i have a reason to be scared, but i'd prefer the fear not exist at all. i dont want to live in fear of what i cant control. i've survived everything so far, i can do it again, but it was so incredibly miserable and terrifying each time that i really dont want to. i do my best to take my precautions. i want to just live life not survive it...

[plotsjotsandespressoshot]

Took a half day cause that fever hit fast and hard but at least I can lay here with my windows open since it’s 70degrees f.

[capricorncum]

omg the sun is out and it’s over 70degrees we made it through the winter gals

[vegabazaar]

Temperature Data Logger Multiple Use Emerson T1XD

Brand : Emerson

Model Name/Number : T1XD

Usage/Application : Industrial

Memory : 32,000 ambient temperature

Battery Life : 12-24 months

Resolution : 0.1 degree LED : Green = ON ; Red = Alert

Operating Environment : -30 degree C to +70degree C

Warranty  : 1 Year

[tiixij]

why is it 70degrees its SUPPOSED to be winter

[maiabeyjujuarts]

Y'all wearing white today? Me? Trying to go with the weather forecast...and work...its now almost 70degrees...this scarf is for this pic...😁 #fridaywhites #itsathing #wearsomeeveryday #wearwhitetoday #maferefunobatala #rockyowhites #iseeyowhites #getintoit #tradition #iwannaseehowfineyoulookinwhite #wearwhiteanyday #letmeseeyowhites #today #whatyouwaitinfor #tellafriend #telltwo #gonow #getyousome https://www.instagram.com/p/CnXG-otgAnV/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

[sharpeagle-tech]

Forklift Safety Solutions for the Supply Chain and Warehousing Sector

Warehouses and Supply chains are highly operational areas that require efficiency and safety solutions to protect the workers and the company’s bottom line. Forklift Safety Solutions should be adopted in such industrial sites to ensure maximum safety.

Additionally, warehouse managers must consider equipping forklifts with tools that ensure safety and reduce the chances of possible accidents.

In this article, we will look at some of the forklift safety solutions that warehouses can incorporate to serve various safety functions:

Forklift Camera System

As forklifts have an extensive reach, thus having a complete vision often becomes challenging for operators. The forklift camera system helps operators get a comprehensive view and operate the forklift cautiously. These cameras can be installed on the front, back, or sideways according to the operator’s requirement to enhance visibility.

The different types of Forklift Camera Systems are:

1.   Forklift Non-explosion Proof Camera System

Engineered for consistent performance and high-quality pictures, the Forklift Non-Explosion Proof Camera System has four 360-degree vision cameras and comes with an MDVR, LCD screen, and full-proof wiring.

This camera can be controlled through a SIM card or WiFi and is compact for easy installation. This model largely increases workhouses employees’ safety, helping operators ensure smooth operation.

2.   Forklift Explosion Proof Camera System

This camera is uniquely designed for withstanding high temperatures in explosive areas from -30 degrees to +70degrees. ATEX-certified and appropriate for usage in Zone 1,2, 21, and 22areas, the Forklift Explosion Proof Camera has been robustly designed for maximum security and safety.

The encasing of the camera keeps sparks from coming into contact with the environment. It is equipped with360-degree camera vision and has infrared IR LED for visibility above 15meters. Operational with a SIM card or WiFi, this camera is the ultimate safety solution for forklift operators.

3.   Forkview Camera System

Suitable for forklift operators who are required to reach high levels, the Forkview Camera System comes with a water and dust-proof monitor, a camera, and a cable for accurate positioning of goods.

Equipped for working in high temperatures ranging from -20 degree Celsius to +70 degree Celsius, this system offers a viewing angle of 45 degrees and a line of sight of 50 meters. The camera can be installed on the fork of forklift to provide the operator with a clear real-time vision and safely transport goods.

4.   Forklift Wireless Camera System

A one-stop solution to make forklift operation much safer and more efficient, the forklift Wireless Camera System is equipped with features such as recording, light controls, and automatic backlighting. The product can show reverse gear-activated screen footage in real-time and has multi-image adjustment options.

Forklift cameras should have high battery backup and work round the clock for continued assistance. The forklift wireless system has a powerful battery of 8700mAH and IP69K certification.

The camera and an LCD provided with the system are wireless, and the camera is equipped with a Smart IR function to give a clear image at all distances.

5.   Forklift Anti-collision System

Promoting increased safety level sin industrial zones and maximized control for the operator, the forklift Anti-Collision System is a commendable safety solution for forklift operators. The system uses an ultrasonic probe to calculate the rear distance from any object and shows it to the operator on an LED screen.

This helps the operator understand the distance between the forklift and an object, reducing the chances of collisions or unfortunate accidents. This equipment is suitable for hazardous locations that contain heavy machinery. The operator is always alerted of the blind zone by the device and can rely on the system's technology to transport products with confidence.  

Warehouse Traffic Management System

Built with premium quality sensors to alarm the operator about possible obstacles, the Warehouse Traffic Management System is an ultra-safety tool for industrial areas. This system eliminates incidents from occurring drastically as the operator is continuously warned about his surroundings.

It is equipped with features such as a thumb lever, bright LED lights, red spots, warning alarms, and high-quality sensors to ensure warehouse traffic awareness. The system's high sensing capacity detects obstacles faster than the naked eye and helps the operator to drive with caution.

Forklift Safety Light System

Frequent damages caused by forklifts can cause increased insurance costs, penalties, and warehouse damages. The Forklift Safety Light Systemcan provide improved visibility and help you reduce losses and thrust productivity. SharpEagle has a wide range of forklift safety light systems that are equipped for hazardous areas:

1.   Forklift ARC Safety Lights

This light is engineered for explosive areas such as Zone 01, Zone 02, and Zone 21 & Zone 22 to provide maximized visibility to forklift operators. Built with high-quality LED, Forklift ARC Safety Lights have silicon rubberized wear with double insulation that enables the lights to work in extreme temperatures.  

The system is water, dust, quakeproof, and tempered glass protects it from the external budget.

2.   Forklift Laser Light

This light determines the fork position and helps the operator transport goods faster without any collateral damage. Forklift Laser Light has a laser wavelength of 100mw and 650 MW, respectively, which naturally increases the driver’s visibility, enabling him to get the work done efficiently.

3.   Forklift Blue Spot Light

Built robustly for hazardous locations with casting aluminum alloy housing for heat elimination, the forklift Blue Spot Light system is an ingenious forklift safety solution.Any pedestrian or vehicle approaching the forklift’s bling side or exiting semi-trailers will be alerted to avoid any form of collision from happening.

It is 100% waterproof, quakeproof and dustproof. Suitable for operating in extreme temperatures, the blue spotlight ensures safety in industrial areas with forklifts.

4.   Forklift Blue Arrow Light

Engineered with the purpose of improving site safety and reducing accidents, the Forklift Blue Arrow Light offers blue light visual warnings to vehicles or pedestrians that are present behind reversing forklifts.

Tailor-made for high-risk areas to prevent sparks from causing ignition or coming in contact with the atmosphere, this system is encased with aluminum die-casting and has a stainless steel bracket and rubberized wire to function in both high and low temperatures.

5.   Forklift Warning Light

Waterproof and dustproof, the forklift Warning Light acts as a signal for moving forklifts to alert the other workers of the position of the forklift. Shielded with durable glass and aluminum alloy casting for heat reduction, the forklift warning light comes indifferent colours, such as green, purple, amber, red and blue.

Capable of functioning in high temperatures and being durable, the lighting inside the aluminum casing has three patterns, solid, rotating, and flashing.

Use the Right Tools and Stay Safe!

While forklifts may be responsible for just 1% of incidents in industrial areas, the resulting injuries have a higher rate, which can be curbed by using effective forklift safety solutions.  Industrial hazards should be curbed in every way possible, hence it is always advisable to take safety measures that create a safe environment.

Help your workers deliver efficiently with safety solutions from SharpEagle, as we use state-of-the-art technology to reduce workplace hazards in industrial areas and foster productivity. Engineered with technology that is aligned with industry standards and adaptable in industrial locations, we aim to deliver effective safety solutions.

Connect with us at +97144541054 or mail us at sales@sharpeagle.uk

[strawbewwysamurai]

It's a beautiful day!!!!

It's also chilly and I'm very happy :D!!!

[the-thoughts-of-a-intp]

The temperature is below 70😏 and you know what that means...

[70-degrees]

#DanaPoint is the world capital for #whale and #dolphin watching. Check out @OceanInstitute Whale & Dolphin watching cruise. The @cityofdanapoint will be celebrating the 49th annual Festival of Whales on March 7, 8, 14 and 15. Read 70degrees.org/ocean-institute-whale-dolphin-watching for the field notes. #fieldnotes #fieldnotefriday #70degrees #archive #preserve #exhibit #explore #boat #cruise #ocean #Pacific (at Dana Point, California) https://www.instagram.com/p/B8joPDBJFoC/?igshid=1ffh188i0rbhn

[aywowww]

This is what #october is supposed to feel like #fallweather #autumnvibes🍁 #70degrees #loveit https://www.instagram.com/p/B3X_6OxphzR/?igshid=qpqg28wwt2vj

[originalbully]

Be heat smart! Your pups depend on it! 🌞🌞🌞Image courtesy of @bulldoghavennw #originalbully #itshotoutside #doglife #petlover #savethemall #heatwave #summer #cool #airconditioning #petstagram #repost #staycool #sunisshining #weather #summer2019 #70degrees #bulldog #frenchie #bullybreed #puglife #petsathome #doglover #petparent https://www.instagram.com/p/B0R2PeaDV3l/?igshid=1fndo4u3g0r2f

[colinadrianglass]

Sunny Sundays. Summer Seasonal Sun. It’s nice out here ✌️ . . . . .#colinadrianglass #stainedglass #sun #arizona#70degrees #homedecor (at Arizona) https://www.instagram.com/p/CXZWepePjmE/?utm_medium=tumblr

[jwestlake6]

a gloomy L.A. spring