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austfluidlink · 10 months ago

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Top 10 Hydraulic Fittings Every Engineer Should Know About

Hydraulic systems are vital components in various industries, from construction to manufacturing. To ensure the efficiency and safety of hydraulic systems, engineers must have a good understanding of fittings.

These fittings are the connectors that join hoses, pipes, and tubes in hydraulic systems, allowing for the transfer of fluid under high pressure. In this article, we'll discuss the top 10 Best hydraulic fittings that every engineer should be familiar with.

1. JIC Fittings (Joint Industry Council)

JIC fittings are widely used in hydraulic systems due to their versatility and reliability. These fittings have a 37-degree flare seating surface and come in various configurations, such as straight, elbow, tee, and cross. JIC fittings provide a secure connection and are suitable for high-pressure applications.

2. NPT Fittings (National Pipe Taper)

NPT fittings are tapered fittings used in hydraulic systems to create a seal between pipes and fittings. These fittings have a tapered thread that wedges into the female fitting, creating a tight seal. NPT fittings are commonly used in low-pressure hydraulic applications and are available in various sizes and configurations.

3. SAE Flange Fittings (Society of Automotive Engineers)

SAE flange fittings are designed for high-pressure hydraulic applications. These fittings consist of a flanged head and an O-ring groove to create a tight seal. SAE flange fittings are easy to assemble and disassemble, making them ideal for applications where frequent maintenance is required.

4. ORFS Fittings (O-Ring Face Seal)

ORFS fittings feature a flat face and an O-ring to create a leak-proof seal. These fittings are easy to install and provide excellent resistance to vibration and pressure spikes. ORFS fittings are commonly used in high-pressure hydraulic systems and are available in a wide range of sizes and configurations.

5. BSP Fittings (British Standard Pipe)

BSP fittings are widely used in hydraulic fittings systems, especially in Europe and Asia. These fittings have a parallel thread and come in two versions: BSP parallel (BSPP) and BSP tapered (BSPT). BSP fittings are easy to install and provide a reliable seal, making them suitable for a wide range of hydraulic applications.

6. Metric Fittings

Metric fittings are designed for hydraulic systems that use metric-sized hoses and tubes. These fittings come in various configurations, including straight, elbow, tee, and cross. Metric fittings provide a secure connection and are suitable for high-pressure hydraulic applications.

7. Compression Fittings

Compression fittings are used to connect pipes and tubes in hydraulic systems. These fittings consist of a compression nut, a compression ring (ferrule), and a body. Compression fittings provide a tight seal and are easy to install, making them ideal for applications where space is limited.

8. Quick Disconnect Fittings

Quick disconnect fittings are used to quickly connect and disconnect hoses and tubes in hydraulic systems. These fittings consist of a male and female coupling that can be easily connected and disconnected without the need for tools. Quick disconnect fittings are ideal for applications where frequent connection and disconnection are required.

9. Camlock Fittings

Camlock fittings are used to connect hoses and pipes in hydraulic systems. These fittings consist of a male and female coupling with cam arms that lock into place to create a secure connection. Camlock fittings are easy to connect and disconnect, making them ideal for applications where frequent assembly and disassembly are required.

10. Banjo Fittings

Banjo fittings are used to connect hoses and tubes at a 90-degree angle. These fittings consist of a hollow bolt with a hole in the side and a banjo eyelet with a hose or tube connection. Banjo fittings are ideal for applications where space is limited and a 90-degree connection is required.

Final Thoughts

The fittings are essential components in hydraulic systems, and engineers must have a good understanding of their different types and applications. By familiarising themselves with the top 10 hydraulic fittings mentioned in this article, engineers can ensure the efficiency and safety of hydraulic systems in various industries. At Austfluid Link Asia Pacific Pty Ltd, we provide a wide range of high-quality hydraulic fittings to meet your specific needs. Contact us today to learn more about our products and services.

#hydraulic fittings

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wholesiouingq · 3 years ago

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For tube connections, the assembly procedure starts from the preparation of the tube

Introduction: JIC Fitting is a range of hydraulic fittings which is made in accordance to the SAE J514 standards. The acronym JIC stands for Joint Industry Council. It is also known as the JIC 37 degrees flare fitting because it has a 37 degrees flare seating surface. These fittings are used on oil hydraulic systems in many fields (fuel delivery, fuel power application, shipbuilding, mobile hydraulic equipment, etc…). A JIC fitting system has three components that make a tubing assembly: fitting, flare nut, and sleeve . Material:Materials used to fabricate JIC fittings include carbon steel and stainless steel SS316L. Sizes:JIC body and flare nut are available in outer diameter ("OD) sizes between 1/8" to 1 1/2”. Sleeve has two different reading measurements, metric size (mm) and inch outer diameter ("OD).

Sleeve size is available from 3mm to 50mm and 1/8” to 2". Fitting sizes are designated by the corresponding outside diameter of the tubing for the various types of tube ends. Working Pressure:The standard working pressure of the fittings ranges from 1000 to 5000 psi for different sizes and connections. The minimum burst pressure is four times the working pressure. JIC fittings must be able to withstand twice the working pressure for a period of 1 minute without failure or leakage. Please take note that the pressure rating of a same fitting may vary when it is connected to different equipments. For example, if a fitting with a low working pressure is Hose Flanges connected to a pipe, it will result in an overall even lower working pressure. In all cases, always consider the lowest pressure as the maximum working pressure of the system.

How does a JIC fitting works: For tube connections, the assembly procedure starts from the preparation of the tube. First, the nut and sleeve are inserted onto the end of a tube. With the use of a flaring tool, form the end of the tube to 37 degrees. Next, tighten the nut by using a spanner until the nut is tight and the sleeve grips onto the tube. If the fittings are bench assembled, the gripping action can be determined by rotating the tube by hand as the nut is drawn down. When the tube can no longer be rotated by hand, the sleeve has gripped onto the tube. When this happens, tighten the nut by turning it one full turn. This may vary slightly with different tubing materials, but for general practice, it is a good rule to follow. Configurations of JIC Fitting: Commonly used connection types consist of: JIC/BSPP Male Connector, JIC/ NPT Male connector, JIC Union, JIC/NPT Swivel Male Connector , JIC/BSPP Swivel Male Connector. HS Corporation: HS Corporation is a Korean manufacturer specializing in JIC Fitting. Established in 1980, HS Corporation has more than 30 years of specialized experience in manufacturing fittings. HS Corporation JIC Fittings are distributed by Chuan Kok Hardware & Machinery Pte Ltd to major shipyards, engineering as well as marine and offshore companies in Singapore.

#Hose Flanges

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angelic-sterling · 7 years ago

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Bushwacker Fender Flames Top 7 FAQ

Inventions from Parker in the area of Pipe Fixtures contain Seal-Lok Lite - which is a small high-flow Fitting for large flow at reduced to medium pressure purposes such as for instance liquid conveyance in fuel cell techniques, and semiconductor manufacturing. This results in shorter thread plans and greater flow height than instrumentation rank and conventional professional hydraulic fittings, with simple construction and leak free performance. Triple-Lok 2 is a soft-seal, stainless installing which incorporates a replaceable soft close in the nose of the size, that will be positioned to reach leak-free connections without limiting fitting strength. It can withstand as much as 20% larger functioning demands than stainless 37 amount flared accessories, and functions Parker's patented Sturdy Slot Stud for easier construction and increased reliability. The Robust Port Stud enables mistake proof installment in the subject, and removes the prospect of copy appliance damage that may result in leaks. It may be used with common flared tubes and line stops, and applied normal O-rings in most styles for comfort and refer to this page . The Triple-Lok Swivel Relationship improves efficiency by design. It includes a dual-angle chair that takes both 37 and 45 degree sparkle fittings, and repositions the closing area away from the end of the man nose, ultimately causing improved force scores in many measurements - an enormous 72% higher when compared to a aggressive product, and a closing place that safeguards the cone and the nose, and increases relationship consistency, twin seat popularity of sizes of size fixtures, all without any huge difference in overall turning nut or installing human body measurement, and number modify in torque or construction method. Yet another advancement for Parker in Pipe Fixtures is the Trap-Seal, having its regularly good maintenance in the rhythm which essentially eliminates the possibility of pop-out that may happen with standard round-shaped O-rings. That impressive O-ring enhancement doesn't get pinched and fail prematurely and virtually eliminates expensive loss and/or pre-assembly handling time. Additionally, it significantly reduces the necessity to replace or reinstall the seal. Parker keeps abreast of world wide improvements and standards. Hexavalent Chromium (Cr6) has been constrained, and Parker has made a fresh Chromium-6 Free plating process, that has resulted in a brand new technology of characteristics within their steel Pipe Fixtures - these generally include environmental safety, increased rust security, appearance obviously labeled'Chromium-6 Free ', and additionally, no changes in construction approach or torque. Along side each one of these an more inventions with their Tube Fitting range, Parker also creates custom products for applications as different as snowflakes - Parker may generate new elements in incredibly small times, whether in smaller-run amounts or larger. Parker endeavors to respond to disaster get within hours - maybe not days. It's obvious why Parker is the leader in the creation of Parker Tube Fittings. Bushwacker has absolutely come quite a distance because the times of providing their first custom fender flare collection for the Toyota Bronco. In the last 40 years, Bushwacker has easily blossomed to one of many prime, major maker of fender flares and vehicle components on the market. Bushwacker's Fender Flares have attained the tag of'Simply The Most useful ', due largely to the ease of installation and fashionable design. Their no-compromise dedication to use just the hardest, strongest, and many tough products, which has the capacity to tolerate also the harshest of settings, has made the Bushwacker Fender Size one of the very sought following truck item among truck enthusiast. You will find a couple of questions that new Bushwacker customers generally have, so it's my goal to show the answers to the Top 7 usually requested questions below. Have you ever thought of adding some Fender Flames to your platform? That is a great thought! You can not stop the dirt that splashing in your wheels, but you are able to lower unwanted dust by using it. They're formerly made to avoid mud from splattering across the medial side of your vehicle and entirely made to keep path dust away and to prevent the threat of damaging your wheel wells. Though dust may be easily rinsed down by cleaning them, nevertheless, the discoloration of one's truck's fur is extremely at risk. If we are getting off-road with your truck, these are very effective for defending your vehicle from hard terrains and different harmful components over the road. You don't have to invest nearly tens and thousands of pounds to help keep your car or truck in excellent condition. With just some fender flames mounted, all is properly!

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atravelingcrescendo · 7 years ago

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Should You Be Applying Copper Pressure Fixtures?

That benefits in smaller thread measures and larger flow length than instrumentation rank and traditional professional hydraulic fittings, with easy assembly and flow free performance. Triple-Lok 2 is just a soft-seal, metal fitting which contains a replaceable smooth seal in the nose of the flare, which will be located to achieve leak-free contacts without limiting fitting strength. It may tolerate up to 20% larger working difficulties than metal 37 level flared accessories, and functions Parker's patented Effective Port Stud for easier construction and increased reliability. The Effective Interface Stud allows for mistake evidence installation in the subject, and eliminates the prospect of backup washer injury that will lead to leaks. It can be used with typical flared pipes and line ends, and used normal O-rings generally in most styles for comfort and KP-LOK JIC fitting . The Triple-Lok Turning Relationship improves performance by design. It features a dual-angle seat that takes equally 37 and 45 degree flare fittings, and repositions the closing location away from the end of the man nose, ultimately causing improved pressure scores generally in most styles - a huge 72% higher than the usual competitive solution, and a closing place that shields the cone and the nose, and improves connection stability, twin chair acceptance of shapes of sparkle accessories, all with no difference in overall swivel nut or installing human anatomy size, and no change in torque or construction method. Another advancement for Parker in Pipe Accessories may be the Trap-Seal, having its consistently positive preservation in the rhythm which essentially eliminates the chance of pop-out that will arise with common round-shaped O-rings. That impressive O-ring development doesn't get squeezed and crash prematurely and nearly eliminates costly loss and/or pre-assembly managing time. Additionally it somewhat reduces the requirement to change or reinstall the seal. Parker maintains abreast of international changes and standards. Hexavalent Chromium (Cr6) has been constrained, and Parker has produced a new Chromium-6 Free plating method, that has resulted in a new generation of features in their steel Tube Fixtures - these include environmental security, increased rust security, packaging clearly marked'Chromium-6 Free ', and best of all, no improvements in assembly process or torque. Alongside all these an more improvements for their Tube Installing point, Parker also provides custom products and services for programs as different as snowflakes - Parker can create new parts in incredibly short times, whether in smaller-run amounts or larger. Parker endeavors to react to disaster purchase within hours - perhaps not days. It's easy to understand why Parker is a head in the manufacturing of Parker Tube Fittings. Bushwacker has positively come quite a distance since the times of providing their first custom fender width collection for the Toyota Bronco. Over the past 40 years, Bushwacker has quickly blossomed to one of many top, leading manufacturer of fender flames and vehicle extras on the market. Bushwacker's Fender Flames have attained the label of'Simply The Best ', due largely to the ease of installment and fashionable design. Their no-compromise determination to use only the hardest, best, and most tough resources, which can tolerate even the harshest of surroundings, has produced the Bushwacker Fender Size one of the most wanted following truck accessory among truck enthusiast. There are a few pre-determined questions that new Bushwacker clients are apt to have, so it's my aim to show the answers to the Top 7 usually requested questions below. Perhaps you have thought of putting some Fender Flares to your platform? That is a good thought! You can't prevent the dirt that splashing in your wheels, but you are able to reduce undesirable dirt by utilizing it. They're formerly created to prevent mud from splattering across the medial side of your automobile and exclusively designed to help keep path dirt out and to steer clear of the risk of harming your wheel wells. Though soil can be quickly rinsed off by washing them, nevertheless, the discoloration of one's truck's coat is very at risk. When we are getting off-road along with your truck, these are very effective for guarding your vehicle from hard terrains and different hazardous components across the road. You don't have to spend nearly tens of thousands of pounds to help keep your car or truck in good condition. With only a couple of fender flames mounted, all is properly!

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bedbathandbeyondv67 · 7 years ago

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Must You Be Using Copper Compression Accessories?

JIC human anatomy and size nut can be found in outer height ("OD) dimensions between 1/8" to at least one 2 ".Sleeve has two different reading proportions, full size (mm) and inch external diameter ("OD). Sleeve size can be acquired from 3mm to 50mm and 1/8" to 2 ".Installing dimensions are specified by the corresponding external length of the tubing for the different types of pipe ends. The typical functioning stress of the fixtures stages from 1000 to 5000 psi for various styles and connections. The minimum burst pressure is four situations the working pressure. The JIC fixtures must have the ability to tolerate twice the functioning pressure for an amount of 1 moment without failure or kplokusa.com/jic-fittings . Please be aware that the stress status of a same fitting may vary if it is connected to different equipments.. As an example, if your fitting with a low functioning pressure is linked to a tube, it will result in a standard actually lower functioning pressure. In all cases, generally consider the lowest pressure as the most working stress of the system. For pipe contacts, the assembly method starts from the preparation of the tube. First, the enthusiast and sleeve are placed onto the conclusion of a tube. With the usage of a flaring tool, variety the conclusion of the tube to 37 degrees. Next, tighten the nut by using a spanner before the lover is limited and the sleeve grips onto the tube. If the fittings are bench assembled, the grasping action may be determined by twisting the pipe by hand as the nut is attracted down. When the pipe can no longer be rotated yourself, the sleeve has gripped onto the tube. When this occurs,, tighten the fan by turning it one whole turn. That may vary slightly with various tubing resources, however for standard practice, it is a great rule to follow. Commonly applied relationship types consist of: JIC/BSPP Male Connection, JIC/ NPT Guy connector, JIC union, JIC/NPT Turning Male Connection, JIC/BSPP Swivel Male Connector. Parker Hannifin Company is the World's Primary Pipe Installing Authority. Since 1924, Parker has served the marketplace with reliable fluid power technology. Tube Fixtures were among the very first products and services made by the organization, and Parker has heavy roots and expertise in the look of Pipe Fittings. The organization manufactures Pipe Accessories to a very good standard to evolve to any or all key specification requirements. Parker Pipe Fittings are noted for their high quality, reliability, uniformity, outstanding wear, and issue free maintenance. They are manufactured to generally meet or surpass industrial specification needs of SAE, ISO, DIN, DOT and JIS criteria - so the consumer is certain of excellence. Parker Accessories give flow free answers in most design - including hydraulic, pneumatic and instrumentation. They are typically made to connect a hose construction to a slot or adapter, and are available in a variety of models including High love and process accessories, Flare fixtures, Pressure, bite type, and O-ring accessories, right thread, tube, flange and barb accessories, Swivel, Universal and interlocking clamp fittings, Push-o-Lok - drive for connecting and air hose fitting, Hydraulic line and used fittings. Several adjustments are available - such as right Tube Accessories, 45/90 stage knee accessories, and Tee fittings. Pipe Fixtures must be for sale in a number of resources to match different needs. Parker Fixtures can be purchased in Brass, Carbon Steel (with Chromium6-Free Plating), Stainless steel, Metal, and Thermoplastics. HS Firm is really a Korean company specializing in JIC Fitting. Established in 1980, HS Organization has over 30 years of particular knowledge in production fittings.

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itsworn · 7 years ago

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Robert Foley’s 426 Max Wedge–Powered 1963 Polara Overheats. We’re Gonna Fix It

The Combo

Law enforcement officer by day, hot rodder by night—Robert Foley always wanted to get his hands on an early Mopar Max Wedge car.

Robert Foley always wanted to put together an early big-block Mopar muscle car. “I liked the history and tradition, how these awesome cars put Chrysler into the forefront! I lucked out and found a 1963 Dodge Polara with the awesome 426 Max Wedge already in it!” The clone-conversion is about as close as an average hot rodder can get to the real McCoy outside of a museum. Its frame-off rebuild included a real 13.5:1 426 Max Wedge motor, complete with a solid-lifter cam, a cross-ram fed by Edelbrock AVS carbs, and factory cast-iron headers. The power is transferred back through a 3,000-rpm stall-speed converter, a pushbutton 727 TorqueFlite, and a 3.91:1-geared Moser 8¾-inch Sure-Grip.

Originally a 318-powered dozer, the Polara underwent a rotisserie restoration, complete with an authentic 426W motor.

The Problem

Even back in the day, these raggedy-edge cars weren’t known as stellar coolers. Today’s crappy gas sure doesn’t help things. “I couldn’t drive it more than 2 to 3 miles before the temperature would get up to 220 degrees,” Foley complained. “At that point, I’d just shut it off. It never stabilized or leveled off, wouldn’t improve at high speed, and didn’t care what the outside temperature was.”

The stock cooling system couldn’t cool the 13.5:1 426. Note how the radiator, shroud, fan, and engine mount are offset to the passenger side.

The Diagnosis

Rollings’ Automotive dropped in a new Griffin “Combo Package”: a high-tech aluminum radiator with twin electric fans in a custom shroud.

Fortunately, Rollings Automotive—one of our go-to SoCal rescue facilities—is within spitting distance of Foley’s Riverside, California, residence. Norm Rollings took only a few minutes to science the problem out. There were no obvious mechanical defects: The thermostat was opening, the pressure cap was the system’s high point, there were no bubbles in the coolant, and timing adjustments made little difference. Time to bring out the big guns: an aluminum radiator, electric fans, and a high-flow water pump. The electric fans’ electrical demands called for a higher-output alternator and wiring upgrades. Added into the mix was Foley’s wish to preserve (to the extent possible) the Polara’s period looks. We spec’d the 440Source.com for a water pump, Griffin Thermal Products for the radiator and fans, Powermaster for a high-output alternator, and a posse of local and aftermarket manufacturers to deal with the inevitable chassis integration and detailing requirements.

It’s not easy keeping a 13.5:1 all-cast-iron 426 Max Wedge cool on the street. The three big-ticket cooling rescue items include a Griffin aluminum radiator/shroud/electric fan package, a 440Source.com high-flow aluminum water pump with cast-iron impeller, and a modern 95-amp Powermaster one-wire alternator. But there’s lots of little extras that make for a sano upgrade, including dipping into Rollings’ secret stash of aircraft fasteners. If there’s no surplus store in your area, most of the “trick” hardware can be purchased from outfits like Aircraft Spruce or ARP.

A] Water pump (Photos 01–03)

B] Radiator, electric fans (Photos 04–10, 13–14, 25–26)

C] Coolant recovery tank (Photos 11–12)

D] One-wire alternator (Photos 15–18)

E] Disconnect external regulator (Photo 19)

F] Fan controller and fan relays (Photos 20–21, 23)

G] Aircraft hardware (Photos 21–22)

H] Starter relay (photo 24)

I] Shorter oil filter (Photo 21)

The Fix: Water Pump

Big-block Chryslers use a water pump that bolts to a separate housing that in turn bolts to the engine block. The pump’s impeller-blade shape plus the clearance of the pump/impeller assembly to the housing’s interior cavity is an important factor in establishing the pump’s overall efficiency. Foley had a standard cast-iron housing and the usual parts-store cast-iron pump with sloppy clearances; the cheapie sheetmetal impeller looked like it was cannibalized from a child’s toy. They were trash-canned and replaced by 440Source.com’s high-flow aluminum pump and housing kit. The pump features a superior curved-vane cast-iron impeller, and the close-tolerance interior housing clearances are precisely controlled to the point that 440Source.com supplies its own pump-to-housing gasket (yes, paper gasket thickness can vary slightly).

01] The 440Source.com’s high-flow aluminum pump with its matching tight-tolerance aluminum housing tightens up the impeller-to-housing clearances for better flow.

02] Note the 440Source.com’s curved-vane, cast impeller, as well as a thick shoulder that extends further into the housing (right); the stocker (left) has a flimsy sheetmetal impeller—ouch!

03] 440 Source’s “early” pump has the right driver-side inlet and enough hot-side pipe-thread holes to allow mounting (from left) the stock temp sender, an Auto Meter temp gauge sender, and the electric fan control unit thermal probe without tee-fittings. Buttonhead pump-to-housing screws clear large billet pulleys. The 440Source.com’s billet water outlet hides a Rollings-gutted thermostat—this is Southern California!

The Fix: Radiator and Fans

To replace Foley’s copper/brass three-row radiator and lame four-blade mechanical fan, we chose Griffin’s Exact Fit aluminum two-core radiator that’s designed to drop in place of most original old-school radiators. In this case, the exact year and model weren’t in the catalog, but a close analog is listed for other 1962–1965 big-block Mopar muscle cars; just be sure to check exact fitment and clearances. Foley’s existing, nearly new upper and lower radiator hoses bolted right up.

04] Radiator tech has come a long way since the 1960s. Griffin’s Direct Fit Combo kit package for most early Mopar big-block/auto-trans cars (PN CU-70024) includes its high-tech aluminum radiator plus a custom aluminum shroud loaded with twin SPAL 10-inch electric fans. The large tube, high-density core still uses a sheetmetal tank for a pseudo-classic appearance. The numbered callouts in this photo indicate the “real-world” location of the parts shown in photos 00–00 that follow within this “Radiator and Fans” section.

05] Like many current OE setups, shroud-relief flaps open at speed to relieve detrimental pressure buildup.

06] A good idea for any aluminum radiator, Rollings added an anti-corrosion sacrificial anode in place of the conventional drain cock.

07] Not inverted flare or 37-degree AN: Rare ¼ pipe-thread-to-SAE 45-degree male cone nipples connect the stock ⁵⁄₁₆-inch auto-trans hardlines to the radiator.

08] Griffin uses pipe thread for the overflow nipple below the pressure cap, allowing Rollins to bend up a ¼-inch stainless-steel hardline with a 37-degree AN coupling nut and flare.

09] At the other end, the tubing connects to Phenix lightweight race hose using a Phenix flareless compression fitting, eliminating the need for an extra union.

10] Always check hood clearance using modeling clay or heavy grease. Rollings had to lower the radiator ½ inch, accomplished by drilling new holes in its integral mounting plate ½-inch higher to mate with the core support’s factory holes and weld nuts (arrow).

A big Moroso reservoir tank reported for duty as a coolant recovery unit.

11] The Phenix race hose runs from the overflow tube (see photo 09, above) to the bottom of this big 2-quart Moroso aluminum reservoir tank. It’s used here as a full sealed coolant recovery system (CRS). Rollings says the tank in most retrofit CRS kits is too small. “Judge for yourself. Look how large today’s overflow tanks are on new cars.”

12] The Moroso tank mounts to existing factory weld-nuts on the driver-side fender via a fabricated aluminum bracket.

So what’s so special about Griffin’s aluminum wonder? Dimensionally, the core height and width is about the same as the old unit, but aluminum’s higher tensile strength allows the tubes to be significantly larger, resulting in more surface area per tube—and surface area is where most heat exchange goes down. Griffin has a higher tube density/inch, further improving heat dissipation when used with electric fans and a properly designed shroud.

13] Griffin’s 18.00 x 21.88-inch core area is about the same as the old radiator, but there’s more to radiator efficiency than gross dimensions. Theoretically, a copper/brass radiator is a slightly more efficient heat exchanger than aluminum, but its tensile strength is lower. Being stronger, aluminum supports higher pressures and larger-diameter, thinner-wall radiator tubes. The Griffin used on the Polara has 1.25-inch tubes, but despite its larger tubes, the Griffin’s tube density comes in at 54 tubes/inch.

14] By contrast, the stocker it replaced has only 0.375-inch tubes and 39 tubes/inch. This makes the Griffin’s tube density about 38-percent higher than the stocker. Griffin also has 16 fins/inch, versus this old unit’s 13 fins/inch. Collectively, larger tubes with greater surface area plus higher density greatly increase heat dissipation.

Then there’s the issue of multirow (multicore) stacking: On an old three- or four-row radiator, the rear cores are less efficient because they see air that’s already been heated by the forward core(s). A similarly sized two-core aluminum radiator with larger tubes nearly always outperforms a three- or four-core copper/brass setup. And electric fans perform best on a radiator with fewer cores. Unlike a beltdriven fan whose speed is tied to engine rpm, electric fans run at a constant speed independent of engine rpm, making them today’s choice for superior low-rpm cooling on most hot rods.

We ordered the Griffin’ radiator as part of a complete “Combo Package,” which also includes a custom shroud, twin SPAL electric fans, and relays. But those current-hungry fans and Foley’s existing electric fuel pump gotta get fed.

The Fix: Alternator and Wiring

15] Out with the weak stock alternator. A Powermaster high-output, one-wire unit supplies the new Griffin-supplied electric fans’ current demands.

Old muscle cars were underwired even stock, and first-gen alternators didn’t put out enough current at idle. (Ever experience dim headlights when idling with the windshield wipers on?) As alternators evolved, they became more efficient, developing higher peak output in a similar-size case, putting out more amps at idle, and ramping up to full power quicker. At speed, early Chrysler alternators typically put out at most 50 amps. We were able to more than double that with a bolt-in, Chrysler-style Powermaster one-wire unit. They’re officially rated at 95 amps, but the dyno-test sheet in the box showed our unit actually made 75 amps at idle, 80 at cruise, and 112 on the top end.

16] Fan appreciation day: Supplying current to the grateful, current-hungry, electric fans is a Powermaster one-wire squareback alternator (right) that’s at least twice as powerful as the first-gen roundback it replaced (left). The new unit’s case is based on the mid-1960s-and-later Chrysler configuration, but still looks distinctively Mopar. It physically bolted up with no reclocking needed.

17] Powermaster’s true one-wire unit is internally regulated and self-exciting. Don’t connect any of the old external wires to the Field terminals (A). Bolt the single charge wire to the B+ stud (B). The alternator usually self-grounds through its mounting bracket, but for insurance Rollings ran an external ground wire from the ground terminal (C) to an exhaust manifold bolt.

Powermaster’s internally regulated design is a cinch to install. It uses just one main charge wire. Rollings did upsize from a 12-gauge to a Powermaster 8-gauge charging wire, protected from chafing (as were all the other newly run wiring) by split nylon sleeving. Foley was already running a AWG 00 battery cable from his trunk-mounted battery to the starter.

18] Upgrade the charge wire from the typical 12-gauge stocker to 8-gauge (or larger, depending on the length of the run); they’re available from Powermaster. Here the upgrade runs to the starter relay and on to the starter. Still running a stock ammeter? Hook the black wire to the B+ stud. Run an auxiliary ground as desired. (Photo: Ryan Lugo)

19] The old separate voltage regulator was left sitting on the firewall for looks, but it’s not hooked up to anything.

To reduce potential duty-cycle strain under California 100-degree-plus summers, Rollings elected to use 75-amp Bosch fan control relays in place of the supplied 30-amp units. A Hayden adjustable fan controller allowed dialing in the fan actuation temperature as measured by a thermal probe that safely screws into a water pump pipe-thread fitting.

20] Rollings fail-safed the car against SoCal’s blazing summer heat: “I installed 75-amp Bosch relays (left) in place of the supplied 30-amp relays (right). As the outside air temp goes up, the wires get heat-soaked, increasing resistance and amp-draw, so you have to derate the official specs.” On the car, they mount to the core support using Nutsert rivet nuts.

21] Rollings added a Hayden adjustable fan controller with a pipe-threaded thermal probe. “It’s safer than an all-metal probe slid through the radiator fins, where you can have a direct short to ground if there’s ever metal-to-metal contact.” The Hayden mounts with surplus aircraft “pin screws” that have a wrenchless flat head and an internal wrenching hex at the externally-threaded end. This allows tightening a self-locking jet nut from one side.

22] If there’s a trick way to attach something, odds are good you’ll find a solution at your local aircraft surplus hardware store. Jet nuts and pins screws come in an almost infinite variety of variations.

23] The Hayden controller triggers two big 75-amp Bosch relays. Each Bosch relay runs one fan. The Hayden unit has its own 30-amp relay, but it’s not stressed because, in this installation, its “high side” serves only as a low-current trigger for the two larger Bosch relays. Fusible links provide further protection. (Photo: Ryan Lugo)

24] Main power feeds for the electric fan relays and fan controller comes off the Chrysler firewall-mounted starter relay. Fusible links (which did not exist in 1963) were added after this photo was taken for circuit protection.

The Fix: Final Clearance Issues

After everything was buttoned together, Foley’s existing oil filter hit a transmission fluid cooling line. Rollings replaced it with a shorter filter used on many late 1990s Chrysler products. There was also some concern about limited clearance between the fans and water-pump pulley. However, it proved not to be a problem even when the engine “rocked-over” under hard acceleration. All in all, everything fit together like a large jigsaw puzzle.

25] Post-install fitment: Foley’s existing long Wix racing filter (PN 51515R, left) hit the trans cooling lines. It was replaced by a 1⅓-inch shorter Wix filter (PN 51085, right) that’s stock on many mid-to-late-1990s Chrysler products.

26] Electric fan-to-water pump pulley clearance was tight, but acceptable.

The Results

Foley’s Polara runs normally at 185 degrees under normal driving, rising to no more than 205 degrees when he gets real squirrely and performs multiple burnouts. Rollings plans some additional fine-tuning to get the dinosaur motor to behave a little better during daily street driving, though we expect the 13.5:1 mill will always need additive.

Lessons Learned

If you really want to drive a classic, high-compression, muscle-car clone on the street, be prepared to implement modern tech to keep it alive. On some of these cars—especially those cloned from a more sedate model—not everything is as it’s “supposed to be.” Be prepared to check fitment on every add-on, and don’t be afraid to mod as needed so everything fits together like it should. That’s hot rodding!

The only heat the now-cool, bright-yellow Polara generates is the rumpity-rump of the never-to-be forgotten age of big Detroit muscle.

Need Junk Fixed? If your car has a gremlin that just won’t quit, you could be chosen for Hot Rod to the Rescue. Email us at [email protected] and put “Rescue” in the subject line. Include a description of your problem, a photo, your location, and a daytime phone number.

440Source.com 775.883.2590 440source.com

Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co. 877.4.SPRUCE or 951.372.9555 AircraftSpruce.com

Automotive Racing Products (ARP) 800.826.3045 or 805.339.2200 ARP-Bolts.com

Bernell Hydraulics Inc. CA; 800.326.7252 or 909.899.1751 BernellHydraulics.com

Fastenal Co. 877.507.7555 or 507.454.5374 Fastenal.com

Flex-a-lite, a Legend Co. 800.851.1510 (sales) or 253.922.2700 (tech & customer service) Flex-a-lite.com

G&J Aircraft and Competition 909.986.6534 GandJAircraft.net

Griffin Thermal Products 800.722.3723 or 864.845.5000 GriffinRad.com

Hayden Automotive (Four Seasons Div./Standard Motor Products Inc.) 888.505.4567; HaydenAuto.com

Ideal Clamp Products Inc. 800.251.3220 or 615.459.5800 IdealTridon.com

Lucas Oil Products Inc. 800.342.2512 or 951.270.0154 LucasOil.com

Moroso Performance Products 203.453.6571 (sales/customer support); 203.458.0542 or 203-458-0546 (tech) Moroso.com

O’Reilly Auto Parts 888.327.7153 (internet orders), 800.755.6759 (store customer service), or 417.829.5727 OReillyAuto.com

O’Reilly Auto Parts Store #2682 951.685.0822 OReillyAuto.com

Phenix Industries 951.780.9330 PhenixInudstries.com

Pico Wiring Accessories 541.688.9646 PicoWiring.com

Powermaster Motorsports 630.957.4019 (sales) or 630.849.7754 (tech) PowermasterPerformance.com

Robert Bosch LLC 917.421.7209; Bosch.us

Rollings Automotive Inc. 951.361.3001 RollingsAutoInc.com

Summit Racing Equipment 800.230.3030 (orders) or 330.630.0240 (tech) SummitRacing.com

Waytek Wire 800.328.3274 or 952.949.0965 WaytekWire.com

Wix Filters 704.869.3421 (customer service), 704.864.6748 (sales), or 800.949.6698 (USA, product information) WixFilters.com

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instrument-fittings · 4 months ago

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instrument-fittings · 6 months ago

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instrument-fittings · 2 months ago

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itsworn · 7 years ago

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HOT ROD Rescue: Boost-induced Piston Failure Shows Need for Better Pistons

J.B. Bracken’s Blown Rat Rod Couldn’t Do a Burnout. We Fixed it by Adding So Much Boost a Piston Broke. Time to Fix It—Again

The manufacturer said the original pistons were good to 20 pounds of boost. But we pulled 24.” — Norm Brandes, Westech Automotive

The Rescue So Far

J.B. Bracken built his 1935 Ford truck–based rat rod to tow his LSR bikes, serve as a highway cruiser, and to wow his friends with gonzo burnouts.

Initially, the massive Dana 70 truck dualie rearend, the wrong cam, and poor tuning kept the 8-71–blown 383 Chevy from burning rubber.

That all got fixed in our initial installment via a better cam, overdriving the blower, and lots of tuning—with the truck making so much boost a piston broke. (Photo: Marlan Davis)

The Rescue So Far

John Wheeler and the rest of Norm Brandes’ Westech Automotive crew went right back to work resolving the rat rod’s latest problems.

When Westech Automotive’s Norm Brandes inspected J.B. Bracken’s 1935 Ford Rat Rod truck (July 2017 print edition), it couldn’t do a burnout and ran poorly at idle and under cruise—despite an 8-71-blown 383 small-block Chevy engine. Originally set up with a 20-percent-underdriven blower generating just 6 psi of boost, the combo didn’t have enough low-end grunt to break the dualie tires loose on its massively heavy Dana 70 1-ton truck rearend. Reversing the drive pulleys to generate 20-percent overdrive, tuning the carbs and ignition, and a custom Howards cam ironed out the problems, but as the tune was finalized on the Mustang chassis dyno, the blower’s boost momentarily spiked to 24 psi and broke the ring lands on four pistons. Brandes says inspecting the pistons and bearings showed no signs of detonation; all that boosted cylinder pressure simply exceeded the existing pistons’ material strength.

Four pistons failed when boost momentarily spiked at 24 psi. Amazingly, no cylinder walls got cracked and one broken ring land somehow found its way into the oil pan without harming anything else.

Brandes says the cause was material failure, not detonation, because “the pin holes and pins weren’t beat up.”

The Fix: Block

Better pistons were needed, but owner Bracken—a hard-core Bonneville motorcycle racer—also decided to spring for a better cylinder block. His existing motor had been built up from an OE two-bolt-main block reinforced by a bottom-end girdle. Although the original block was reusable, he couldn’t help but think: “What would be the next link in the chain to fail?” Besides, the engine had to be torn down and rehoned for new pistons anyway.

Bracken’s existing block wasn’t cracked and could have been reused, but the OE casting had only two-bolt main bearing caps and a girdle. With all the failures, racer Bracken elected to (hopefully) bulletproof things once and for all by stepping up to a Dart SHP block featuring four-bolt mains with splayed outer bolts, blind head-bolt holes, and a priority main oiling system that oils the bottom-end first. (Photo: Dart Heads)

For Bracken, the answer was a beefy, 4.125-inch-bore Dart SHP block featuring four-bolt mains with splayed outer bolts and bottom-end features that permitted swapping over his existing (and unharmed) forged 3.75-inch-stroke crankshaft and 5.7-inch center-to-center connecting rods. With the larger bore, displacement rose from 383 to 401 ci.

Dart’s block was ordered with 400 Chevy-sized, 4.125-inch bores but retained 350 mains and the early two-piece rear main seal, allowing Westech to swap over Bracken’s existing 383 crank and rods.

Brandes used Speed-Pro Competition Series rod bearings (PN 8-7100CH, shown) and ¾-groove coated main bearings (PN C139M) to support the crank and rods in the new Dart block. Summit Racing offers these bearing sets with friendly pricing. (Photo: Summit Racing)

Dart’s block is set up for a passenger-side oil pan dipstick and—because its valley is machined to accommodate GM production factory hydraulic roller lifters retained by a spider and dogbones—the lifter bores are 0.300-inch taller than traditional blocks. Brandes was able to retain Bracken’s driver-side dipstick pan by fabricating an external tube connected directly to the oil pan. The existing retrofit, link-bar, hydraulic-roller lifters fortuitously turned out to be the 0.300-tall versions.

Dart blocks are set up for a passenger-side oil dipstick and tube, but Bracken’s older production block and one-off custom oil pan were machined for a passenger-side driver-side dipstick. Brandes’ crew retained the old pan by fabricating an external driver-side dipstick tube: A length of ⅜-inch-od seamless steel tubing was flared 37 degrees on one end, then mated using an AN-style tubing nut and sleeve to a –6 90-degree AN elbow welded into the pan’s side. A chromed Mr. Gasket dipstick (PN 6235) fits into the tube, which extends approximately to valve-cover height. Brandes remarks, “We didn’t even have to remark the full line.”

The Fix: Pistons

The failed pistons were forged from 4032 high-silicon aluminum alloy, which is fine for street/strip and Sportsman normally aspirated applications through the 600–700hp level, but high-boost engines generate more heat and pressure. They really want a 2618-alloy forged piston with its lower silicon content. JE Pistons’ Mark Gearheart explains, “Typically used in our SRP piston line, 4032 alloy has a lower rate of expansion, which allows for a tighter piston-to-wall-clearance and makes the engine quieter under start-up conditions; 2618 alloy, used in all of JE’s premium piston line, is completely different. It’s stronger and more ductile, making it more suitable for boost, power-adders, or extremely high-power applications. However, it has a greater rate of expansion, requiring more piston-to-wall clearance. That will cause some additional start-up noise, but we’ve tailored our skirt design to minimize noise and the need for greatly increased clearance.” Bracken’s old 4032 pistons had about 0.0025-inch skirt clearance; Brandes installed the new JE 2618 pistons at 0.005. The crude skirt designs used 20 years ago often required 0.008-inch or even more clearance.

New JE fully machined, 4.125-inch-bore pistons forged from more ductile 2618 aluminum alloy (right) replaced the 4.030-inch-bore, 4032-alloy, SRP forgings (left).

JE sent over its Extreme Duty 23-degree inverted dome forgings with 0.310-inch deep valve pockets. The fully machined 2618-alloy forgings feature contact reduction grooves between the deck and first ring groove, plus an accumulator groove between the first and second ring grooves. Contact reduction grooves both minimize wall contact if the piston rocks over near TDC, as well as reduce flame travel in the crevice area to help suppress detonation. An accumulator groove provides additional volume for any combustion gases that may escape past the top compression ring; this reduces pressure buildup between the two rings, thereby minimizing ring flutter and enhancing ring sealing with JE’s supplied ¹⁄₁₆-¹⁄₁₆-³⁄₁₆ plasma-moly ring set.

The new JE’s are further enhanced with contact reduction grooves (1) and accumulator grooves (2). Bracken’s old pistons had neither.

Brandes had to rebalance the rotating assembly because the new, stouter pistons and pins were slightly heavier than those they replaced. Dart blocks are delivered slightly undersize, requiring they be bored and honed to fit the exact piston combo. He also squared the decks to blueprint dimensions.

The previous build used Fel-Pro’s performance PermaTorque composition head gaskets with steel fire rings (bottom). With new, dead-flat decks, Brandes could step up to Fel-Pro MLS (multilayer steel) gaskets (top). MLS gaskets are designed to maintain contact pressure between the heads and blocks under extreme boost conditions, but are finicky about deck-surface prep.

The Fix: Head Studs

Pop goes the weasely, no-name head stud. It failed when Brandes torqued the heads down on reassembly.

The stud’s center Allen-wrench hole was too large and extended too far down, leaving insufficient material where the nut developed its greatest tension. Also note the ragged, poorly rolled threads. (Photo: Marlan Davis)

The next domino to fall was Bracken’s no-name head studs. Reassembling the engine, the top of a stud popped off when Brandes torqued the cylinder-head stud nuts down. We sent the failed units to ARP for lab analysis, where it was determined the failure’s primary cause was the stud’s Allen-wrench installation hole, which had too deep a broach that extended into the area where the stud nut developed its greatest tension. Other issues included sharp peaks and valleys on the threads with multiple irregularities and occlusions that certainly weren’t up to ARP’s Mil-Spec J-thread profile! The threads appeared to have been rolled before heat-treat, which greatly reduces a fastener’s fatigue resistance. Installing an ARP stud set easily cured this problem! Although it has blind head-bolt holes, the Dart block still accepts standard Chevy production small-block head-bolt or stud kits.

ARP’s lab investigation of the failed stud shows a “dimple rupture” in the structure, an indication of “ductile tensile overload,” shown here magnified 2,000 times in an electron microscope. (Photo: ARP)

It’s a simple fix: Just get a real ARP head stud kit. Note ARP’s shallower Allen broach and smooth threads.

The Fix: Power Valve (Again)

Westech put everything back together and began the tuning process once more. At this point, the biggest change was to the problematic carburetor power valve (PV). The rat rod’s dual 750-cfm Quick Fuel double-pumpers originally ran no PVs at all, compensating with over-rich primary-side main metering jets, but that caused terrible fuel economy and badly fouled spark plugs. Last month, Brandes leaned the primary jets out and installed PVs with an 8.5–in-Hg opening point, but they occasionally operated erratically.

On conventional Holley-type carbs mounted above a positive-displacement blower, the PV’s internal signal passage in the main body can’t sense true engine load under boost. Brandes ultimately modified the PVs’ internal vacuum-signal passages to see vacuum from the intake manifold (below the supercharger) and installed a PV with a 2.5–in-Hg opening point (the lowest available). Brandes explains, “This references the motor’s true vacuum or boost. We need a low [PV] opening point because when you ease into the throttle under conditions of increasing load and the blower begins to spool up but isn’t yet making positive boost on the gauge, vacuum will be lower than a normally aspirated motor under the same conditions. Going to the lowest PV, we still have switching fuel enrichment, avoiding [a PV] on/off-induced engine-surge condition when going down the road. Don’t go old school and rely exclusively on main jets or they’ll get badly fouled under everyday operation.”

Power valves (PVs) can’t sense true engine load under boost. The fix: Main body mods that reference the PV to an external vacuum source on the intake under the blower. Plug the original PV signal hole (arrow) with shot, then drill a new hole and internal passages that connect to an externally pressed-in ³⁄₁₆-inch brass tube (pointers).

The new vacuum tube and main-body passage (arrow 1) is independent from the two existing front throttle-plate vacuum ports usually used for the distributor vacuum advance (manifold vacuum, 2; or spark-ported, 3).

External, orange-colored hoses (arrows) from the new passage on each carb are Y’ed together and connected to an intake vacuum port.

The Results

After intensive tuning, the rat rod ended up with gobs of low-end torque and—even at 20 pounds of boost—ran on 93-octane pump gas as Bracken amassed more than 1,500 miles of street and long-distance highway cruising in the six months following the rebuild. Gas mileage doubled, from 6 to 12 mpg. “It was running great!” Bracken says. “My burnouts were now spectacular, too.” When it finally came time to write this Rescue installment, we needed to shoot some giant burnout photos and videos. Wouldn’t you know it, practicing before taking photos, Bracken was laying big rubber when steam suddenly streamed out of the motor. A head gasket had blown. We’ll figure out why, then put the engine on the dyno to thoroughly evaluate its performance before we release it back into the wild.

Stouter 2618 aluminum alloy JE pistons, real ARP head studs, a Dart block, and more carb tuning seemingly bulletproofed the combo.

But after driving the truck for 1,500 miles with no issues, while performing a massive burnout at 20 psi, a head gasket blew (circle).

The hurt was at the rear of No. 8 cylinder across to the water jacket (circle). Fortunately the deck surface doesn’t appear to be severely damaged. Stay tuned for “Rat Rod Investigation Discovery, Phase 3.”

Lessons Learned (So Far)

The higher the output, the more critical your parts choices become. Avoid no-name parts and stay with reputable brand names. Use parts designed and intended to be durable at power levels the vehicle actually sees.

Contacts

Aeroquip Industrial—Weatherhead (Eaton Hydraulics Group USA); Eden Prairie, MN; 952.937.9800; Eaton.com/hydraulics

Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co.; Corona, CA; 877.4.SPRUCE or 951.372.9555; AircraftSpruce.com

Amazon.com Inc.; Seattle, WA; 866.216.1072; Amazon.com

Automotive Racing Products (ARP); Ventura, CA; 800.826.3045 or 805.339.2200; ARP-Bolts.com

Dart Machinery Ltd.; Troy, MI; 248.362.1188; DartHeads.com

Fel-Pro—Sealed Power—Speed-Pro (Federal-Mogul Corp.); Southfield, MI; 800.325.8886; FelPro-Only.com or FMe-cat.com

JE Pistons; Cypress, CA; 714.898.9763 (main office) or 714.898.9764 (sales/technical assistance); JEpistons.com

MettleAir; Buffalo, NY; 716.240.0080; Mettleair.com

Mr. Gasket, A Holley Performance Brand; Bowling Green, KY; 866.464.6553; Holley.com/brands/mr_gasket/

National Automotive Parts Association (NAPA); Atlanta, GA; 800.LET.NAPA; NAPAonline.com

Quick Fuel Technology; Bowling Green, KY; 270.793.0900; QuickFuelTechnology.com

RockAuto LLC; Madison, WI; RockAuto.com

Summit Racing Equipment; Akron, OH; 800.230.3030 (orders) or 330.630.0240 (tech); SummitRacing.com

Westech Automotive; Silver Lake, WI; 262.889.4346; WestechAuto.com

W.W. Grainger Inc.; Lake Forest, IL (branches nationwide); 800.GRAINGER; Grainger.com

The post HOT ROD Rescue: Boost-induced Piston Failure Shows Need for Better Pistons appeared first on Hot Rod Network.

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