#22 degrees C air temp today

[shannonofthezteam]

7.7.24 Golden Circle- Secret Lagoon

Of course, we couldn't miss out on the natural hot springs in Iceland. What a muscle - soothing delight!

[28northgroup]

35 Money-Saving Household Habits

Image: Anderson The Fish

Your house gives you so much: security, pride, shelter. With all that on the line, it's easy to assume the costs of keeping it up just are what they are. But wait. There are plenty of expenses that are simply a waste.

Here's how to save money each month without putting a dime of home value at risk.

#1 Clean Your Light Bulbs

What? Who does that? Well, smart people (who want to about shrewd,  small ways to save money). A dirty bulb emits 30% less light than a clean one. Dust off both the bulb and fixture, and you might be able to cut back on the number or brightness of lights in each room without noticing any difference.

#2  Keep Your Fridge Full

Solid items snuggled together retain the cold better than air and help keep each other cold — requiring less energy overall. Leaving town for awhile and fridge is empty? Fill voids in the fridge or freezer with water bottles.

#3 Switch Your Bulbs to LED’s

By replacing just five of your most-used incandescent bulbs with uber-efficient light-emitting diode (LED) bulbs, you could save $75 a year on your energy bill.

And LED’s last 15 to 20 times longer than incandescent, so you won't have to replace them nearly as often.

#4 Use Power Strips

Here's how to save money on bills -- a lot of it. Appliances like coffee makers, TVs, and computers continue to suck power even when they're off — which can cost you $100 a year. And did you know the AC adapter for your laptop keeps drawing power even if the laptop isn't plugged in? Stop this slow money burn by connecting them to an easy-to-switch-off power strip.

#5 Use a Toaster Oven When Possible

Toaster ovens use 50% to 70% less energy than a full-size oven.

#6 Set Your Water Heater to 120 Degrees

Hot water heaters often come with a factory setting that's higher than you need. You'll cool your water heating costs by 3% to 5% every time you lower the temperature setting by 10 degrees.

#7 Insulate Your Water Heater

For $30 or less, an insulating jacket or blanket can shave 7% to 16% off your water heating costs for the year. Just make sure to follow the manufacturer's directions to avoid creating a fire hazard.

#8 Wash Clothes in Cold Water

Image: Anna Rodé Designs

Just switching from hot to warm water will cut every load's energy use in half, and you'll reap even more savings taking the temp down to cold. And don't worry: Your clothes will get just as clean from cold water, thanks to the efficiency of today's detergents (except in the case of sickness; you'll want hot water and bleach then).

#9 Use the Right Dryer Cycle

If you're using a high-heat setting for each load, you could be using more energy than you need. Almost all fabrics can be dried with a lower heat setting, such as the permanent press setting. It uses less energy and has the added bonus of extending the life of your fabrics. Save the higher heat for  items such as sheets and towels.

#10 Use Homemade Cleaners

Many commercial products rely on baking soda or vinegar for their cleaning power, so why not make your own? Most homemade cleaners cost less than $1.

#11 Cut Back on Laundry Detergent

Never mind the barely visible measurement lines in the cap: You typically only need a tablespoon of detergent. And, clothes actually get cleaner when you use less, because there's no soap residue left behind.

#12 Ditch Disposable Sweeper and Mop Head

Stop throwing money away every time you clean! Refill your Swiffer Sweeper with microfiber cloths. Just cut to size and use them dry for dusting or with a little water and floor cleaner for mopping. Or switch to a microfiber mop with a washable head.

#13 Stop Buying Dryer Sheets

Another easy swap? Give up your dryer-sheet habit (about $7 for 240 loads) in favor of wool dryer balls (about $10 for six, which last more than 500 loads each). Of course, depending on your laundry preferences, you can always just go without either.

#14 Cut Scouring Pads In Half

Most clean-ups don't require a full one.

#15 Don't Rinse Dishes

Image: Cavan Images/Offset

Two minutes of rinsing with the faucet on full-power will consume 5 gallons of water — the same amount efficient dishwashers use during an entire cycle. Shocking, right? And it's an unnecessary step, since most newer models are equipped to remove even stubborn food debris. Just be sure to clean the dishwasher trap regularly to keep your dishwasher running efficiently.

#16 Keep a Pitcher of Water in the Fridge

You won't have to waste time and money running the faucet, waiting for it to get cold enough for a refreshing sip.

#17 Set a Timer for the Shower

The average American takes an eight-minute shower and uses about 17 gallons of water. It's easy to linger, so set a timer for five minutes. Or try this more entertaining idea: Time your shower to a song or podcast segment.

#18 Install Low-Flow Fixtures

In addition to water-conserving practices, low-flow showerheads, which cost less than $10, and other fixtures can drop your water use in the shower by 43%.

#19 Hack a Water-Hogging Toilet

If you don't have a water-conserving toilet, there are water-saving retrofitting kits that could yield about $110 in savings every year. Or place a half-gallon milk jug filled with water into the tank — in the corner and away from the flapper and ball-cock assembly. Every time you flush, you'll save.

#20 Close Closet Doors

Each closet and pantry may hold a paltry amount of square footage, but you're still heating and cooling it. Add up all the storage space, and you've got the equivalent of a small room. Shut the doors to keep the conditioned air out.

#21 Program the Thermostat

Program your thermostat to turn the heat down by 3 to 5 degrees when you're not home and at night, and set it to bump the temperature up by the same amount when the A/C is cranking. You'll save $10 to $20 a month and never feel the difference.

#22 Don't Crank the Thermostat Up or Down Too Far

Varying the setting by 10 or more degrees when you're gone for work or over the weekend is overkill. Your HVAC system will have to work overtime to get back to the ideal temperature, erasing your savings.

#23 Use Fans Year-Round

Image: Iaobzjls/Getty

Ceiling fans can reduce your summer cooling costs and even reduce winter heating bills — but only if used correctly. Flip the switch on the base to make the blades rotate counterclockwise for a cooling effect or clockwise to help distribute heat in the winter. And in the warmer months, an attic or whole-house fan can suck hot air out and help distribute cooler air so you can give the A/C a little break.

#24 Caulk or Weatherstrip Around Doors and Windows

Caulk may not have the charisma of something like solar panels, but using it to seal air leaks around doors and windows will deliver immediate savings rather than a 14-year payback. You'll spend $3 to $30 and save 10% to 20% on energy bills.

For gaps between moving parts that can't be caulked, add weatherstripping.

#25 Add Insulation

This is a bigger weatherizing project than caulking or weatherstripping, but it could yield more than $500 in yearly savings. While your home should be properly insulated from the roof down to the foundation, prioritize the attic, under floors above unheated spaces, around walls in a heated basement and in exterior walls.

#26 Plant Shade Trees

Image: Liz Foreman for HouseLogic

Block the summer sun to lower cooling costs. Planting one shade tree on the west side and one on the east side of your home can shield your home from the sun during the summer months (but avoid south-side trees, which block winter sun). By the time they're 15 years old, these two trees can reduce your energy bill by 22% , while adding value to your home.

#27 Use Curtains as Insulation

Another way to practice energy-saving passive heating and cooling? Open curtains on sunny windows in the winter and close them up in the summer.

#28 Cool with a Cross Breeze

On a breezy day, open a window on the side of your house that's receiving the breeze, then open another on the opposite side of the house. Make sure the window on the receiving side is open a little less than the exhaust side to accelerate the breeze. You can also use a fan if there's no breeze outside.

#29 Check Your Mortgage's PMI

If your mortgage was for more than 80% of your home's purchase price, you could be paying more than $50 a month, and as much as $1,000 a year, for private mortgage insurance (PMI). So as soon as you have at least 20% equity in your home, contact your lender to terminate the policy — they aren't necessarily required to notify you when you reach that threshold.

Another option for ditching PMI? If your credit score or debt load has improved since securing your mortgage, look into refinancing with more favorable terms.

#30 Check Your Home Insurance for Savings

Your homeowners insurance should change as your life changes. Buying an automatic generator or installing security alarms could reduce your premium by 5% or more.

Bundling your home and auto coverage could save even more — up to 20% off both policies. But the point is to compare and do a price check to see if you can save.

Surveys have found you could be paying a lot more than what another insurer would charge for the same coverage. So you could save by going with a new company, or by using their quote to bargain with your current provider.

#31 Borrow Tools Instead of Buying

How often are you going to use that $600 demolition hammer once you remove your bathroom tile? Not so much? Rent it from a home-improvement store for a fraction of the cost. Be sure to do the math for each tool and project though; sometimes the rental price is high enough to justify buying it.

Or join a tool lending library or cooperative to borrow tools for free or much less than retail stores.

#32 Cut Back on Paper Towels

Two rolls of paper towels a week add up to about $182 every year! Instead, try machine-washable cotton shop towels. They clean up messes just as fast and cost less than $2 for five. Save paper towels for messes that need to go straight into the trash, like oil and grease.

#33 Stop Buying Plants for Curb Appeal Every Year

Image: Marna McGlinn of Marna McGlinn Ceramics

A pop of color in your landscaping perks up your curb appeal. But instead of wasting household funds on short-lived annuals, invest in perennials that will keep giving for years to come.

#34 Water Grass in the Morning to Save on Your Water Bill

Turning the sprinkler on at midday is kinda like watering the air — especially when the mercury soars. Lose less to evaporation by watering during cooler hours (but avoid overnight watering, when too-slow evaporation can invite fungus growth).

#35 Make Your Yard Drought-Tolerant for Long-Term Savings

Save $100 or more yearly by replacing water-hogging plants and grass with drought-tolerant and native species, and beds of rock or gravel. You'll save time on maintenance, too.

Adopt a few of these home tips to find a bit more cash each month.

View original post here: Read or visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.

© Copyright 2020 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

Used by permission as a REALTOR®

[itsworn]

Robert Foley’s 426 Max Wedge–Powered 1963 Polara Overheats. We’re Gonna Fix It

The Combo

Law enforcement officer by day, hot rodder by night—Robert Foley always wanted to get his hands on an early Mopar Max Wedge car.

Robert Foley always wanted to put together an early big-block Mopar muscle car. “I liked the history and tradition, how these awesome cars put Chrysler into the forefront! I lucked out and found a 1963 Dodge Polara with the awesome 426 Max Wedge already in it!” The clone-conversion is about as close as an average hot rodder can get to the real McCoy outside of a museum. Its frame-off rebuild included a real 13.5:1 426 Max Wedge motor, complete with a solid-lifter cam, a cross-ram fed by Edelbrock AVS carbs, and factory cast-iron headers. The power is transferred back through a 3,000-rpm stall-speed converter, a pushbutton 727 TorqueFlite, and a 3.91:1-geared Moser 8¾-inch Sure-Grip.

Originally a 318-powered dozer, the Polara underwent a rotisserie restoration, complete with an authentic 426W motor.

The Problem

Even back in the day, these raggedy-edge cars weren’t known as stellar coolers. Today’s crappy gas sure doesn’t help things. “I couldn’t drive it more than 2 to 3 miles before the temperature would get up to 220 degrees,” Foley complained. “At that point, I’d just shut it off. It never stabilized or leveled off, wouldn’t improve at high speed, and didn’t care what the outside temperature was.”

The stock cooling system couldn’t cool the 13.5:1 426. Note how the radiator, shroud, fan, and engine mount are offset to the passenger side.

The Diagnosis

Rollings’ Automotive dropped in a new Griffin “Combo Package”: a high-tech aluminum radiator with twin electric fans in a custom shroud.

Fortunately, Rollings Automotive—one of our go-to SoCal rescue facilities—is within spitting distance of Foley’s Riverside, California, residence. Norm Rollings took only a few minutes to science the problem out. There were no obvious mechanical defects: The thermostat was opening, the pressure cap was the system’s high point, there were no bubbles in the coolant, and timing adjustments made little difference. Time to bring out the big guns: an aluminum radiator, electric fans, and a high-flow water pump. The electric fans’ electrical demands called for a higher-output alternator and wiring upgrades. Added into the mix was Foley’s wish to preserve (to the extent possible) the Polara’s period looks. We spec’d the 440Source.com for a water pump, Griffin Thermal Products for the radiator and fans, Powermaster for a high-output alternator, and a posse of local and aftermarket manufacturers to deal with the inevitable chassis integration and detailing requirements.

It’s not easy keeping a 13.5:1 all-cast-iron 426 Max Wedge cool on the street. The three big-ticket cooling rescue items include a Griffin aluminum radiator/shroud/electric fan package, a 440Source.com high-flow aluminum water pump with cast-iron impeller, and a modern 95-amp Powermaster one-wire alternator. But there’s lots of little extras that make for a sano upgrade, including dipping into Rollings’ secret stash of aircraft fasteners. If there’s no surplus store in your area, most of the “trick” hardware can be purchased from outfits like Aircraft Spruce or ARP.

A] Water pump (Photos 01–03)

B] Radiator, electric fans (Photos 04–10, 13–14, 25–26)

C] Coolant recovery tank (Photos 11–12)

D] One-wire alternator (Photos 15–18)

E] Disconnect external regulator (Photo 19)

F] Fan controller and fan relays (Photos 20–21, 23)

G] Aircraft hardware (Photos 21–22)

H] Starter relay (photo 24)

I] Shorter oil filter (Photo 21)

The Fix: Water Pump

Big-block Chryslers use a water pump that bolts to a separate housing that in turn bolts to the engine block. The pump’s impeller-blade shape plus the clearance of the pump/impeller assembly to the housing’s interior cavity is an important factor in establishing the pump’s overall efficiency. Foley had a standard cast-iron housing and the usual parts-store cast-iron pump with sloppy clearances; the cheapie sheetmetal impeller looked like it was cannibalized from a child’s toy. They were trash-canned and replaced by 440Source.com’s high-flow aluminum pump and housing kit. The pump features a superior curved-vane cast-iron impeller, and the close-tolerance interior housing clearances are precisely controlled to the point that 440Source.com supplies its own pump-to-housing gasket (yes, paper gasket thickness can vary slightly).

01] The 440Source.com’s high-flow aluminum pump with its matching tight-tolerance aluminum housing tightens up the impeller-to-housing clearances for better flow.

02] Note the 440Source.com’s curved-vane, cast impeller, as well as a thick shoulder that extends further into the housing (right); the stocker (left) has a flimsy sheetmetal impeller—ouch!

03] 440 Source’s “early” pump has the right driver-side inlet and enough hot-side pipe-thread holes to allow mounting (from left) the stock temp sender, an Auto Meter temp gauge sender, and the electric fan control unit thermal probe without tee-fittings. Buttonhead pump-to-housing screws clear large billet pulleys. The 440Source.com’s billet water outlet hides a Rollings-gutted thermostat—this is Southern California!

The Fix: Radiator and Fans

To replace Foley’s copper/brass three-row radiator and lame four-blade mechanical fan, we chose Griffin’s Exact Fit aluminum two-core radiator that’s designed to drop in place of most original old-school radiators. In this case, the exact year and model weren’t in the catalog, but a close analog is listed for other 1962–1965 big-block Mopar muscle cars; just be sure to check exact fitment and clearances. Foley’s existing, nearly new upper and lower radiator hoses bolted right up.

04] Radiator tech has come a long way since the 1960s. Griffin’s Direct Fit Combo kit package for most early Mopar big-block/auto-trans cars (PN CU-70024) includes its high-tech aluminum radiator plus a custom aluminum shroud loaded with twin SPAL 10-inch electric fans. The large tube, high-density core still uses a sheetmetal tank for a pseudo-classic appearance. The numbered callouts in this photo indicate the “real-world” location of the parts shown in photos 00–00 that follow within this “Radiator and Fans” section.

05] Like many current OE setups, shroud-relief flaps open at speed to relieve detrimental pressure buildup.

06] A good idea for any aluminum radiator, Rollings added an anti-corrosion sacrificial anode in place of the conventional drain cock.

07] Not inverted flare or 37-degree AN: Rare ¼ pipe-thread-to-SAE 45-degree male cone nipples connect the stock ⁵⁄₁₆-inch auto-trans hardlines to the radiator.

08] Griffin uses pipe thread for the overflow nipple below the pressure cap, allowing Rollins to bend up a ¼-inch stainless-steel hardline with a 37-degree AN coupling nut and flare.

09] At the other end, the tubing connects to Phenix lightweight race hose using a Phenix flareless compression fitting, eliminating the need for an extra union.

10] Always check hood clearance using modeling clay or heavy grease. Rollings had to lower the radiator ½ inch, accomplished by drilling new holes in its integral mounting plate ½-inch higher to mate with the core support’s factory holes and weld nuts (arrow).

A big Moroso reservoir tank reported for duty as a coolant recovery unit.

11] The Phenix race hose runs from the overflow tube (see photo 09, above) to the bottom of this big 2-quart Moroso aluminum reservoir tank. It’s used here as a full sealed coolant recovery system (CRS). Rollings says the tank in most retrofit CRS kits is too small. “Judge for yourself. Look how large today’s overflow tanks are on new cars.”

12] The Moroso tank mounts to existing factory weld-nuts on the driver-side fender via a fabricated aluminum bracket.

So what’s so special about Griffin’s aluminum wonder? Dimensionally, the core height and width is about the same as the old unit, but aluminum’s higher tensile strength allows the tubes to be significantly larger, resulting in more surface area per tube—and surface area is where most heat exchange goes down. Griffin has a higher tube density/inch, further improving heat dissipation when used with electric fans and a properly designed shroud.

13] Griffin’s 18.00 x 21.88-inch core area is about the same as the old radiator, but there’s more to radiator efficiency than gross dimensions. Theoretically, a copper/brass radiator is a slightly more efficient heat exchanger than aluminum, but its tensile strength is lower. Being stronger, aluminum supports higher pressures and larger-diameter, thinner-wall radiator tubes. The Griffin used on the Polara has 1.25-inch tubes, but despite its larger tubes, the Griffin’s tube density comes in at 54 tubes/inch.

14] By contrast, the stocker it replaced has only 0.375-inch tubes and 39 tubes/inch. This makes the Griffin’s tube density about 38-percent higher than the stocker. Griffin also has 16 fins/inch, versus this old unit’s 13 fins/inch. Collectively, larger tubes with greater surface area plus higher density greatly increase heat dissipation.

Then there’s the issue of multirow (multicore) stacking: On an old three- or four-row radiator, the rear cores are less efficient because they see air that’s already been heated by the forward core(s). A similarly sized two-core aluminum radiator with larger tubes nearly always outperforms a three- or four-core copper/brass setup. And electric fans perform best on a radiator with fewer cores. Unlike a beltdriven fan whose speed is tied to engine rpm, electric fans run at a constant speed independent of engine rpm, making them today’s choice for superior low-rpm cooling on most hot rods.

We ordered the Griffin’ radiator as part of a complete “Combo Package,” which also includes a custom shroud, twin SPAL electric fans, and relays. But those current-hungry fans and Foley’s existing electric fuel pump gotta get fed.

The Fix: Alternator and Wiring

15] Out with the weak stock alternator. A Powermaster high-output, one-wire unit supplies the new Griffin-supplied electric fans’ current demands.

Old muscle cars were underwired even stock, and first-gen alternators didn’t put out enough current at idle. (Ever experience dim headlights when idling with the windshield wipers on?) As alternators evolved, they became more efficient, developing higher peak output in a similar-size case, putting out more amps at idle, and ramping up to full power quicker. At speed, early Chrysler alternators typically put out at most 50 amps. We were able to more than double that with a bolt-in, Chrysler-style Powermaster one-wire unit. They’re officially rated at 95 amps, but the dyno-test sheet in the box showed our unit actually made 75 amps at idle, 80 at cruise, and 112 on the top end.

16] Fan appreciation day: Supplying current to the grateful, current-hungry, electric fans is a Powermaster one-wire squareback alternator (right) that’s at least twice as powerful as the first-gen roundback it replaced (left). The new unit’s case is based on the mid-1960s-and-later Chrysler configuration, but still looks distinctively Mopar. It physically bolted up with no reclocking needed.

17] Powermaster’s true one-wire unit is internally regulated and self-exciting. Don’t connect any of the old external wires to the Field terminals (A). Bolt the single charge wire to the B+ stud (B). The alternator usually self-grounds through its mounting bracket, but for insurance Rollings ran an external ground wire from the ground terminal (C) to an exhaust manifold bolt.

Powermaster’s internally regulated design is a cinch to install. It uses just one main charge wire. Rollings did upsize from a 12-gauge to a Powermaster 8-gauge charging wire, protected from chafing (as were all the other newly run wiring) by split nylon sleeving. Foley was already running a AWG 00 battery cable from his trunk-mounted battery to the starter.

18] Upgrade the charge wire from the typical 12-gauge stocker to 8-gauge (or larger, depending on the length of the run); they’re available from Powermaster. Here the upgrade runs to the starter relay and on to the starter. Still running a stock ammeter? Hook the black wire to the B+ stud. Run an auxiliary ground as desired. (Photo: Ryan Lugo)

19] The old separate voltage regulator was left sitting on the firewall for looks, but it’s not hooked up to anything.

To reduce potential duty-cycle strain under California 100-degree-plus summers, Rollings elected to use 75-amp Bosch fan control relays in place of the supplied 30-amp units. A Hayden adjustable fan controller allowed dialing in the fan actuation temperature as measured by a thermal probe that safely screws into a water pump pipe-thread fitting.

20] Rollings fail-safed the car against SoCal’s blazing summer heat: “I installed 75-amp Bosch relays (left) in place of the supplied 30-amp relays (right). As the outside air temp goes up, the wires get heat-soaked, increasing resistance and amp-draw, so you have to derate the official specs.” On the car, they mount to the core support using Nutsert rivet nuts.

21] Rollings added a Hayden adjustable fan controller with a pipe-threaded thermal probe. “It’s safer than an all-metal probe slid through the radiator fins, where you can have a direct short to ground if there’s ever metal-to-metal contact.” The Hayden mounts with surplus aircraft “pin screws” that have a wrenchless flat head and an internal wrenching hex at the externally-threaded end. This allows tightening a self-locking jet nut from one side.

22] If there’s a trick way to attach something, odds are good you’ll find a solution at your local aircraft surplus hardware store. Jet nuts and pins screws come in an almost infinite variety of variations.

23] The Hayden controller triggers two big 75-amp Bosch relays. Each Bosch relay runs one fan. The Hayden unit has its own 30-amp relay, but it’s not stressed because, in this installation, its “high side” serves only as a low-current trigger for the two larger Bosch relays. Fusible links provide further protection. (Photo: Ryan Lugo)

24] Main power feeds for the electric fan relays and fan controller comes off the Chrysler firewall-mounted starter relay. Fusible links (which did not exist in 1963) were added after this photo was taken for circuit protection.

The Fix: Final Clearance Issues

After everything was buttoned together, Foley’s existing oil filter hit a transmission fluid cooling line. Rollings replaced it with a shorter filter used on many late 1990s Chrysler products. There was also some concern about limited clearance between the fans and water-pump pulley. However, it proved not to be a problem even when the engine “rocked-over” under hard acceleration. All in all, everything fit together like a large jigsaw puzzle.

25] Post-install fitment: Foley’s existing long Wix racing filter (PN 51515R, left) hit the trans cooling lines. It was replaced by a 1⅓-inch shorter Wix filter (PN 51085, right) that’s stock on many mid-to-late-1990s Chrysler products.

26] Electric fan-to-water pump pulley clearance was tight, but acceptable.

The Results

Foley’s Polara runs normally at 185 degrees under normal driving, rising to no more than 205 degrees when he gets real squirrely and performs multiple burnouts. Rollings plans some additional fine-tuning to get the dinosaur motor to behave a little better during daily street driving, though we expect the 13.5:1 mill will always need additive.

Lessons Learned

If you really want to drive a classic, high-compression, muscle-car clone on the street, be prepared to implement modern tech to keep it alive. On some of these cars—especially those cloned from a more sedate model—not everything is as it’s “supposed to be.” Be prepared to check fitment on every add-on, and don’t be afraid to mod as needed so everything fits together like it should. That’s hot rodding!

The only heat the now-cool, bright-yellow Polara generates is the rumpity-rump of the never-to-be forgotten age of big Detroit muscle.

Need Junk Fixed? If your car has a gremlin that just won’t quit, you could be chosen for Hot Rod to the Rescue. Email us at pitstop@HotRod.com and put “Rescue” in the subject line. Include a description of your problem, a photo, your location, and a daytime phone number.

440Source.com 775.883.2590 440source.com

Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co. 877.4.SPRUCE or 951.372.9555 AircraftSpruce.com

Automotive Racing Products (ARP) 800.826.3045 or 805.339.2200 ARP-Bolts.com

Bernell Hydraulics Inc. CA; 800.326.7252 or 909.899.1751 BernellHydraulics.com

Fastenal Co. 877.507.7555 or 507.454.5374 Fastenal.com

Flex-a-lite, a Legend Co. 800.851.1510 (sales) or 253.922.2700 (tech & customer service) Flex-a-lite.com

G&J Aircraft and Competition 909.986.6534 GandJAircraft.net

Griffin Thermal Products 800.722.3723 or 864.845.5000 GriffinRad.com

Hayden Automotive (Four Seasons Div./Standard Motor Products Inc.) 888.505.4567; HaydenAuto.com

Ideal Clamp Products Inc. 800.251.3220 or 615.459.5800 IdealTridon.com

Lucas Oil Products Inc. 800.342.2512 or 951.270.0154 LucasOil.com

Moroso Performance Products 203.453.6571 (sales/customer support); 203.458.0542 or 203-458-0546 (tech) Moroso.com

O’Reilly Auto Parts 888.327.7153 (internet orders), 800.755.6759 (store customer service), or 417.829.5727 OReillyAuto.com

O’Reilly Auto Parts Store #2682 951.685.0822 OReillyAuto.com

Phenix Industries 951.780.9330 PhenixInudstries.com

Pico Wiring Accessories 541.688.9646 PicoWiring.com

Powermaster Motorsports 630.957.4019 (sales) or 630.849.7754 (tech) PowermasterPerformance.com

Robert Bosch LLC 917.421.7209; Bosch.us

Rollings Automotive Inc. 951.361.3001 RollingsAutoInc.com

Summit Racing Equipment 800.230.3030 (orders) or 330.630.0240 (tech) SummitRacing.com

Waytek Wire 800.328.3274 or 952.949.0965 WaytekWire.com

Wix Filters 704.869.3421 (customer service), 704.864.6748 (sales), or 800.949.6698 (USA, product information) WixFilters.com

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[itsworn]

Mopars Need Extra Help With The Heat—Here’s How To Fix It!

As an engine’s power level increases, it will also generate more heat. Your classic Mopar’s stock radiator contains an outdated core design that wasn’t designed to handle the added heat that comes with the insane power levels street cars are making today. The stock 22- and 26-inch radiators equipped in our vintage Mopars were barely adequate at cooling a stock or even slightly modified engine. It seems one of the most neglected upgrades when building a higher-than-stock horsepower engine is the cooling system, particularly the radiator and its supporting components.

Some of the factory big-block Wedges came equipped with only a 22-inch, two-row radiator. If so, you were guaranteed to overheat in summer stop-and-go traffic. The 26-inch radiator with a fan shroud was introduced to cool the hot Street Hemi engine in the 1966 B-Body. This larger 26-inch wide radiator helped cool the stock Street Hemi and Wedges of the time. But with power levels commonly exceeding 500 hp—and with some pushing 1,000 or more—a stock 26-inch piece with its three-row core will not cool it down. Believe us, we’ve experienced too-hot coolant temps driving our ’67 Coronet R/T with its 493ci Wedge with 621 hp.

Whenever ambient temps rose over 80 degrees, coolant temps of 190 to over 200 degrees would cause the big R/T to detonate using 93-octane pump gas. To stop the pinging, we needed to add a few gallons of 110-octane race gas. Through the course of 30-plus years, the radiator was re-cored, rodded-out, sonic-tanked, cleaned-out, and the cooling system flushed every year. We even tried the higher-flowing Flowcooler water pump (which helped some), but wasn’t enough with the original 26-inch radiator. We just gave up and purchased a new stock replacement 26-inch Desert Cooler aluminum unit with an updated core from US Radiator. Since installing this high-efficiency aluminum-core aluminum radiator (two 1-inch rows), summertime stop-and-go temps never exceed 170 degrees. Plus, the 10.7:1 Wedge doesn’t ping anymore, even with straight premium pump gas.

These days, there are many options in cooling system components to effectively cool your Mopar monster engine. As an example, U.S. Radiator offers four types of radiator core designs: Standard (’60s-style), High-Efficiency aluminum (20-percent more heat transfer points), High-Efficiency copper (20-percent more heat transfer points), and Optima (40-percent more heat transfer points). To cool down the hot 528ci Street Hemi that will reside in our ’65 Coronet, we ordered a stock-looking, 22-inch unit with a four-row Optima core and the Tripleflow option from U.S. Radiator. This really cool option (see illustration) is available with the Optima core design. It re-routes the coolant to travel three times through the radiator, allowing further travel time for the coolant to transfer heat. The Tripleflow option is said to reduce engine coolant temps another 15 to 20 percent over a same-size radiator with sufficient airflow through its denser radiator core.

Choosing the right radiator for your engine’s output is only a call away or a look online. You can never have too much cooling unless you live in a cold climate, or drive your old Mopar in the winter, then a hot 180-degree thermostat will work. For 30-plus years, we’ve been using a 160-degree Mr. Gasket or Milodon thermostat. The 160-degree stat has worked well for us during racing and cruising season with ambient temperature between 40 to over 100 degrees. Straight distilled water with wetting additives will help, but are not a cure-all for an inadequate radiator and cooling system. We’ve found that once we had the right radiator and cooling system components to cure our cooling woes, all we needed was a premium 50/50 premix of Prestone coolant to protect us.

For our project Street Hemi ’65 Coronet, we’ll be using a mechanical seven-blade mechanical clutch fan teamed-up with a Flowkooler high-flow water pump. Yes, you may think we’d be better off with an electric fan and water pump when sitting at a stoplight in the summer, but the mechanical fan will look like stock and be far more reliable and efficient than an electric fan system with wiring, sensors, relays, fuses, and attendant electrical system drain. This is one of those cases where you just can’t beat the factory engineering of a mechanical fan.

Catch Up On Project Cool Blue!

Love our 1965 Dodge Coronet project car and want to see more? These stories cover the Hemi build-up, brakes, and suspension…

Prepping The Chassis For Big-Block Hemi Power:

Hemi 4 Chassis Mods

B-Body Front Suspension Rehab:

Mopar Front Suspension Rehab

Installing Wilwood 12.19-inch DynaLite Front Brakes:

Installing Wilwood 12.19-inch DynaLite Front Brakes

Upgrading To Wilwood’s 4-Wheel Disc Master Cylinder:

Wilwood Master Cylinder Upgrade

Dyno Testing The 825hp Barton Street Hemi:

Dyno Testing Street Hemi Crate Motor

To effectively cool our 825hp Street Hemi, this updated, stock-looking 22-inch radiator from U.S. Radiator will be up to the task. It features their Optima core with a four-tube row. This new bolt-in radiator will cool 40-percent better than the OE core design (a three-tube row) that cooled the original 383.

The Coronet’s original radiator was for a ’64-65 Wedge with A/C and featured a factory metal fan shroud. Usually, non-A/C cars didn’t have a shroud unless it was a towing, high-performance, or police package car. We will swap this shroud over to the new U.S. Radiator unit. Shrouds are very good at keeping the temps down in stop-and-go traffic.

Here we can see U.S. Radiator’s modern performance core design has more fins (18 versus. 13) and cooling tubes (4 versus 3) per inch than the OE core. Our Coronet’s four-tube-row U.S. Radiator features about 150 more cooling tubes than the stock for lower running temperatures.

All U.S. Radiator Optima radiators are available with the Tripleflow option. It helps lower coolant temps another 15 degrees by rerouting the coolant to travel three-times the distance through the radiator. Yes, we ordered the Tripleflow option to help the cooling for our freshly built Hemi.

Just like the 493 Wedge in our ’67 R/T, we’ll be using a Flowkooler high-flow water pump for the 528 Street Hemi. With its new impeller design, it delivers more coolant flow at idle, slow speed, and at highway speeds. By creating more flow and pressure throughout the radiator and the engine, it helps to lower coolant temperature.

When using a high-flow, high-pressure Flowkooler water pump, you’ll need to use a high performance thermostat, like a 160-degree balanced flow stat from Milodon or Mr. Gasket. A regular thermostat could close from the increased flow generated from a high-pressure water pump.

We’ve been using a radiator petcock in place of an engine plug to flush the engine block for many years. The radiator petcock makes it easier to access and flush the block. There’s a plug on the left and right side of every vintage Mopar V8. Here’s a look at the petcock we installed on the right side of our beefy new Mopar Hemi block.

It’s a good idea to flush and clean the cooling system and block before installing a new radiator. Prestone’s Radiator Flush Plus Cleaner works well. Our new effective cooling system will only need to use Preston’s 50/50 premix of deionized water and coolant. Its Cor-Guard inhibitors prevent corrosion and electrolysis for longer component life.

Extra airflow is needed to go through the denser performance radiator core. Shown is our former six-blade fan that worked with the Coronet’s original radiator. We’ll be upgrading to a seven-blade fan with the original shroud to move more air.

We love the looks of the stock-look U.S. Radiator bolted into the original radiator position. To us, a cross-flow aluminum radiator just doesn’t look right in the engine bay of a vintage Mopar. A copper tube and brass tank radiator always dissipates heat better than a similar aluminum unit of the same size and design.

If we went with a 26-inch radiator, we would’ve needed to modify the original 22-inch radiator core support opening. Then we wouldn’t have the correct, righteous look seen here. This U.S. Radiator 22-inch unit with Optima four-row core and Tripleflow will easily handle our 528ci Street Hemi.

Instead of relying on just the factory temperature gauge, we installed this thermometer radiator cap for accurate temperature readings. It’s a Mr. Gasket unit we picked up at the Englishtown swap meet five years ago.

In 2012, we ordered this 26-inch unit from U.S. Radiator for the 493 Wedge in our ’67 R/T. As you can see, it bolted right in and we swapped over the stock fan should. This high-efficiency double 1-inch row design lowered the temp more than 30 degrees compared to the original.

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[itsworn]

2017 Cooling Buyer’s Guide

There are two aspects of building a hot rod that can make or break any build … electrical and cooling. Cooling seems to be a constant bug-a-boo but it shouldn’t be. There are an amazing number of ideal products out there, like radiators, engine and tranny coolers, relay kits, and cooling fans, to handle heavier than normal workloads. There are enhanced water pumps, both electrical and mechanical, and superior coolants and additives that really help keep your engine (and you!) cool.

Of course, having the correct parts is an important part of the equation but there’s some homework you have to do first before jumping in. Always make sure that your motor is properly cleaned inside if using an older motor. It’s a good idea to check freeze plugs; make sure the temp gauge sensor is in a place so that the exhaust temps or other “super-heated” elements do not cause the gauge to give you elevated readings; have a properly positioned radiator so that airflow passes through the radiator, over the engine, and out of the engine compartment thereby taking hot air with it; and make sure the fan (electrical or mechanical) has the proper fan shroud (it makes a huge difference!). Another area to check is to make sure that you have enough radiator for your engine (based on cubic inches and power output) and that there is enough radiator opening to let enough air into the engine compartment. It’s always a good idea to position the electrical fan or fans behind the radiator (puller) rather than in front of the radiator (puller).

Well, there you have it; some basic ideas on cooling, an area of hot rod building that is best handled correctly the first time as a poor effort now can lead to dire consequences out on the road.

Painless Performance Products

Installing air conditioning to your hot rod? Need cooling fan relays to operate off of a thermostatic switch when your A/C is on? The dual activation cooling fan relay kits by Painless Performance are exactly what you need. Only a few minutes for the installation and your cooling fan will come on when the engine reaches the preset temperature of the thermostatic switch mounted in the engine head or when the A/C is turned on. Available for single fan or dual fan, with different engine temperature fan activation options for each to work with whatever thermostat you are using.

Painless Performance Products (817) 244-6212 painlessperformance.com

The Brassworks

For 40 years The Brassworks has handcrafted radiators for restored cars and classic street rods. They pack a lot of cooling in their radiator cores. Fins are made of tellurium copper because it conducts heat at twice the speed of aluminum. Their highly elliptical tube design maximizes the coolant contact area, and the punch and flaring of each fin achieves over three times the contact area found in common radiator construction. Staggering tubes tumble air laterally as it passes though the core and embossed louvers in each fin disrupt the airflow on the fin. Making cores with these features isn’t the cheapest way, so you won’t find them in the discount copper radiators or aluminum radiators but you will in a Brassworks radiator.

Our builders assemble our reproductions alongside an original radiator so they can construct a simple drop-in replacement or build from a drawing to make custom fabrications. Specializing in chops, split cores, angled headers, angled cores, reliefs for fans, tank reliefs, formed inlets, and much more, we can accommodate your specific build needs.

The Brassworks (805) 239-2501 thebrassworks.net

FlowKooler

Engines rarely overheat on the highway due to good airflow and good coolant flow. The reality is most engines overheat in stop-and-go traffic, at stoplights, or at cruising speed when the coolant flow rate though the radiator is reduced.

FlowKooler’s newest generation of Hi Flow Water Pumps have precision-machined impellers with integrated shrouds and a military-grade anodized surface finish. With incremental vanes and tighter tolerances, FlowKooler doubles flow rates at slow speed and idle to reduce engine temperatures as much as 30 degrees. A more efficient flow helps conserve system horsepower by 2.2 percent and increase the block pressure by 22 percent, which prevents the formation of hot spots and steam pockets in the water jacket. A full range of pumps for street rods, muscle cars, trucks, Jeeps, and rock crawlers is available through selected dealers or directly on FlowKooler’s website.

FlowKooler (805) 239-2501 flowkooler.com

Hy-Per Lube Corporation

High-performance engines require coolant to transfer as much heat as possible. As cylinder head temperatures increase, so does the likelihood of detonation and power loss unless ignition timing is retarded. Under extreme conditions, this can also result in overheating and engine damage.

Hy-Per Lube Super Coolant reduces the surface tension of coolant, allowing it to more deeply penetrate metal surfaces at critical heat transfer areas inside the engine and radiator. This results in more heat being transferred away from cylinder heads and a reduction in engine operating temperatures.

Importantly, cooler cylinder head temperatures also allow the engine ECU to safely advance ignition timing, which results in more horsepower. Street applications running a 50/50 mix run 8-10 degrees F cooler, and racing applications running straight water coolant run up to 25 degrees F cooler. Actual cylinder head temperatures can be reduced by up to 50 degrees F.

Hy-Per Lube Super Coolant provides complete protection from rust, corrosion, and electrolysis. This is particularly important in straight water applications, where there is no corrosion protection being provided by the corrosion inhibitors in antifreeze. Hy-Per Lube Super Coolant is formulated specifically to protect aluminum systems and is compatible with all types and all colors of anti-freeze.

Hy-Per Lube Corporation (888) 275-0015 hyperlube.com

Old Air Products

Old Air Products specializes in cooling system performance. They manufacture the Hurricane Series A/C, heat, and defrost systems that offer a variety of options to fit virtually any vehicle. Along with the A/C systems, they offer a complete line of electric fans, fan shrouds, and aluminum radiators to maximize the cooling capacity for your antique, classic, or custom vehicle. Old Air offers a full line of replacement parts and N.O.S., NORS parts for factory A/C and heater systems, including heater valves, blower switches, resistors, relays, receiver/dryers, cables, update kits for STV and POA valves, A/C hose assemblies, vacuum valves, and electrical switches.

Old Air Products (817) 531-2665 chill@oldairproducts.com oldairproducts.com

Delta PAG

Delta PAG’s brushless high-performance cooling fan uses cutting-edge, patented technologies, making them the most advanced fan on the market. Their patented technology increases reliability (lasts 10 times longer), reduces amp draw by +30%, Soft-Start eliminates power spikes, and produces over 2,800 cfm at only 2.70 inches thin.

Plug-and-play with your OEM/Aftermarket computer or use Delta PAG’s digital temp/speed controller to program on/off temp and adjust airflow to custom fit your application. One digital temp/speed controller can operate two fans simultaneously, allowing for true staggered-on operation. Included waterproof wiring harness makes an easy install, no relays or temp switches needed. Ask about fabricating a custom aluminum shroud for your application. Complete cooling packages also available; radiator, shroud, and fan(s) for any vehicle.

Delta PAG (212) 203-2912 deltapag.com

Perma-Cool, Inc.

Perma-Cool Inc. offers their popular HP Electric Fans, combining the performance and durability of traditional flex fans (but without the noise) and the “airflow when you need it” of electric fans into one powerful package. Fabricated in their Riverside, California, facility from all aluminum and steel construction—unlike standard plastic electric fans—their HP Electric Fans can withstand the test of time. Featuring high-torque, long-life motors that are amazingly quiet, compared to traditional plastic electric fans, HP Electric fans employ large aluminum paddle blades, making them ideal for use as primary cooling fans.

With a metal ring frame, four solid mounting points, and attractive black powdercoat finish, they are fully reversible for push/pull applications on either side of the radiator. Available in 12-, 13-, 14-, 16-, and 18-inch diameters, each HP Fan includes patented nylon mounting systems, making them perfect for engine swaps. And as with all quality Perma-Cool Inc. products, HP Electric Fan systems are designed and manufactured in the USA.

Perma-Cool, Inc. (951) 352-2665 perma-cool.com

SPAL Automotive USA

SPAL series sealed brushless (SBL) fans deliver unmatched performance and reliability to fit most any application on the market today.

Ranging in size from 10-17 inches (300w and 500w motors), SPAL series brushless fans feature integrated power and signal electronics, “soft start” technology (eliminates electrical in-rush spike), digital control for smooth and reliable operation, temperature sensor options for full variable speed control, reduced axial dimensions, sealed motors (waterproof/dustproof), low weight, high efficiency, low noise, along with excellent resistance to vibration and harshness (NVH) levels. The brushless design also reduces the number of wear components versus standard brushed technology to deliver extremely long-lasting motor.

SPAL brushless fans achieve a remarkable 82 percent electrical efficiency. What this means is maximum airflow with minimal power draw. Sealed to IP68 and IP6K9K compliancy standards (waterproof/dustproof), SPAL SBL motors can operate in the presence of many aggressive or hazardous substances making them ideal for most any application.

SPAL Automotive USA (800) 345-0327 spalusa.com

U.S. Radiator Corporation

For over 40 years, U.S. Radiator has offered the most complete and comprehensive line of “correct appearance and fit” copper/brass radiators for American classic, muscle cars, classic truck, and street rod applications in the industry. Over the last 10 years they have expanded their line of “correct appearance and fit” radiators with their Desert Cooler Aluminum radiators. They now offer four distinctive performance core designs to handle any horsepower and hard-to-cool applications and have been the leader in innovated heat-transfer design. Couple that with their unique Triple Flow design and Low Profile Fan Shroud package and every application from mild to wild is covered.

U.S. Radiator Corporation (323) 826-0965 usradiator.com

Griffin Thermal Products

Griffin Thermal Products is proud to introduce the all-new ExactFit series of aluminum radiators. With 30 years of experience in the performance cooling market and one of the largest collections of OEM sample radiators, Griffin has engineered the ExactFit series. Working with a double focus on precision and performance, the ExactFit products install exactly the same as the OEM component. They offer all of the required mounting tabs, brackets, and spuds to ensure a seamless installation. Optimal performance is achieved by the use of two rows of Griffin exclusive MaxCool 1.25-inch tubing. The wider tube width used in these products creates a greater amount of surface area in the same amount of space. This allows the product to far exceed the performance of common two-row 1-inch radiators. Backed by the industry’s best two-year warranty, the new ExactFit radiators are top of the line.

Griffin Thermal Products (800) RACERAD (722-3723) griffinrad.com

Maradyne High Performance

Heralded as the flagship fan of Maradyne’s brand, the M162K Champion Series 16-inch low-profile heavy-duty fan delivers more cooling per square inch than any other fan in its class. Designed with the street rod crowd in mind, this fan features an industry-low 3.25-inch height at the motor and a mere 1.1 inch at the outer rim of the shroud.

Made of all glass-filled nylon for high impact and heat resistance, this reversible fan produces over 2,000 cfm in Maradyne’s AMCA certified air test chamber. Sponsored for years on Xfinity and Cup racing teams, it can cool up to 850 hp in the pits. Whether it’s your favorite weekend rat rod or showstopping shrine to chrome and glitz, this fan will keep your powerplant cool and your ears happy with its quiet S-blade design.

Maradyne High Performance (800) 403-7953 maradynehp.com

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