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mccarranhandymanservices-blog · 5 years ago

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Best Drain Cleaning Service and Cost in Henderson Nevada | McCarran Handyman Services

More information is at: http://www.handymanlasvegasnv.com/drain-cleaning-henderson-nevada.html

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wandaseella · 7 years ago

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TIP! You need to insulate any pipes have exposure to outside elements to avoid them freezing. You should also keep the temperature in the home above freezing to avoid your pipes freezing.

If you are interested in learning about plumbing, there are many resources that can help you to make it easier. It is not that difficult to research or learn. Once you know what you need to do, you can be sure to be more informed about plumbing and have better information about doing it yourself.

TIP! Avoid septic tank problems by having your tank pumped out in five year intervals. Having your septic pumped will keep sediments from settling to the bottom of the septic tank and causing the tank to malfunction or backup.

Do not pay anything until the problem is fixed. Some plumbers may require a deposit, but don’t fork over all the dough until the job is completed to spec. It will make you feel better knowing that your problem has been solved before parting with a large sum of money.

TIP! If you know what tools you should use, it can help you deal with your plumbing problems in the right way. Read every manual, and use the Internet and library to research the projects that you plan on doing.

If the water in your toilet is low along with the toilet being clogged, pour some extra water in the bowl to make the plunger effective again. Once the water is lower, do this again.

TIP! If your toilet happens to be clogged, and the plunger is not working, you can pour a bucket of hot water down the toilet, but be sure to pour it from a height that is waist level or above so you do not flood the bathroom. After the water level in the toilet bowl has gone down, you can repeat the procedure until the blockage is cleared.

You should regularly check for water damage to your bathroom floor caused by your toilet in order to save money and further complications. Feel the floor around the toilet and check to see if the floor is soft, molded, chipping, etc. Straddle your toilet by rocking it from foot to foot to see if there’s any weakening or softness on the floor below you. Discovering this issue sooner can mean big savings for your checking account, as compared to finding out about it later.

TIP! If you find you are having an issue with the garbage disposal, do not put your bare hands in the disposal. Garbage disposals always pose a possible threat, even when powered off or non-working all together.

A strainer should be placed over all the drains in order to gather particles that would just get in the drain and potentially cause stoppage. The strainer in the kitchen sink should be cleaned each time you have large particles trapped in it. Bathtubs should be equipped with strainers as well, and they too will need to be cleaned regularly.

TIP! Make sure all the work on your plumbing is scheduled at one time. If a problem is minor, it can be wise to put off repair until you have more than one item to fix.

Keep the drain in your bathtub working well by pouring one cup baking soda into the drain quickly followed by about a cup of white vinegar. Afterward, place a washcloth or towel over the top of the drain, to keep the chemical reactions contained. After letting it sit for a few moments, clear the pipes out with a gallon of boiling water. Doing this will clear your pipes of any soap scum or hair that has accumulated.

TIP! A great maintenance routine for bathtub drains is to pour baking soda and vinegar into the drain opening once a month. Cover it with a plug or rag, since a chemical reaction should happen in the pipes.

As you can see, plumbing isn’t as challenging as it might seem. As is the case for any subject, there’s a lot to learn about plumbing, but there’s also a lot of information available. For many they just need a bit of guidance so they know where to start. You should have gotten some good advice from the tips in this article.

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plumbingcodestuff · 8 years ago

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Plumbing Terminology

From Frodo at http://www.plumbingforums.com/forum/showthread.php?p=88104#post88104

Glossary term sources:

http://www.horizonservicesinc.com/re...mbing-glossary

http://www.plumbingmart.com/plumbing-glossary-a.html

http://www.plumbinghelp.ca/terms/

ABS: Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene. A black plastic pipe used in plumbing for drains and vents.

Absorption Field: A leaching or seeping drain field engineered to receive septic tank effluent.

Adjustable Hot Limit Stop: Restricts hot water output in single control faucets and showers to protect against scalding by limiting the swing to the hot side.

Aerator: A screen-like insert screwed onto a faucet outlet. It mixes air with the flowing water to reduce splashing.

Air Admittance Valve: (AAV) Studor vent. Cheater valve. A plumbing device that replaces a traditional vent to allow air to enter the pipe and equalize pressure, preserving the seal of water in the fixture trap.

Air Break: (Drainage System). A piping arrangement in which a drain from a fixture, appliance or device discharges indirectly into another fixture, receptacle or interceptor at a point below the flood level rim and above the trap seal.

Air Chambers: Pressure absorbing devices that eliminate water hammer. They should be installed as close as possible to the valves or faucet and at the end of long runs of pipe.

Air Gap: (Drainage System). The unobstructed vertical distance through the free atmosphere between the outlet of the waste pipe and the flood level rim of the receptacle into which the waste pipe is discharging.

Air Gap: (Water Distribution System). The unobstructed vertical distance through the free atmosphere between the lowest opening from any pipe or faucet supplying water to a tank, plumbing fixture or other device and the flood level rim of the receptacle.

Air Lock: A bubble of air which restricts the flow of water in a pipe.

Anode Rod: A sacrificial rod installed in a water heater, composed of one or more metals that protects the tank from corrosion, helping to extend the life of the tank.

Auger (or Closet Auger): A bendable rod with curved end used by plumbers to remove clogs from a toilet’s trap.

Back Flow: When water traveling from one system backs into any part of the main distribution system, usually by siphoning.

Back Flow Preventer: A device to prevent back flow, especially into a potable water supply. Required for sprinkler systems, handheld showers, pullout faucet spouts, and kitchen sprayers.

Back Pressure: Pressure that resists the flow of fluid in a piping system.

Back-siphonage: negative pressure in the piping system which results in backflow. Commonly prevented with a vacuum breaker or air gap.

Backup: Overflow of a plumbing fixture due to drain stoppage.

Baffle:An object placed in an appliance to change the direction of, or slow down the flow of air, gases or water.

Balancing Valve: A water heater valve that controls water flow and balances heat distribution to different locations.

Ball Check Valve: A valve that uses a ball to seal against a seat to stop flow in one direction.

Ball Joint: A spherical assembly in shower heads that allows the head to pivot and rotate.

Ballcock: A valve in the tank of a gravity-operated toilet that controls refilling of the tank. It is connected to a float via a metal arm. After flushing, the toilet refills until the float rises high enough to shut off the valve.

Bathroom Group: Term to describe the common bathroom. One toilet, one sink, one bathtub/shower.

Bidet: A plumbing fixture similar in appearance to a toilet bowl used for personal hygiene. It is floor mounted, usually next to a toilet, and consists of a washing basin, faucet and sprayer.

Blackwater: Waste water from a toilet.

Bleed: To drain a pipe of excess air by opening a valve at the end of the pipe.

Blow Torch: A torch used by plumbers to solder pipes, activated by pressurized fuel and air to generate its flame.

Blowbag: A drain-cleaning device consisting of a rubber bladder with a hose fitting on one end and a nozzle on the other. The device attaches to a water hose and is inserted into a clogged drainpipe. As water is introduced, it expands to grip the pipe, and releases pulsating bursts of water through the nozzle, forcing water through the pipe to clear the obstruction. Also known as a blowfish.

Blowdown: Partial venting or draining, under pressure, of the water side of a boiler to reduce or remove unwanted contaminants. Also the pressure drops after releasing a pressure-relief valve.

Boiler: A sealed tank where water is turned to steam for heating or power.

Boiler Feed: A check valve controlling inlet water flow to a boiler.

Bonnet: The top portion of a compression valve assembly, it holds the valve in place as it is tightened against the valve seat at the other end of the assembly.

Brackish Water: Water containing bacteria between 1,000 and 15,000 ppm of dissolved solids.

Branch Vent: A vent pipe connecting one or more individual vents with a vent stack or stack vent.

Brass: Slang for faucets and fittings regardless of materials used.

Burst Pressure: The internal pressure that will cause a piece of tubing to fail.

Branch Drain: Plumbing fixture drain that leads to the main drain line.

Bushing: A fitting that’s threaded inside and outside that joins pipes of different sizes.

CC Connection: A term for a Copper Connection. (a shower water valve denoted as CC usually requires soldering).

Check valve: A device that allow flow in only one direction.

Circuit Vent: A vent that connects to a horizontal drainage branch and vents two traps to a maximum of eight traps or trapped fixtures connected into a battery.

Cistern:

a tank for storing water. (aka reservoir)

CPVC: Acronym for chlorinated polyvinyl chloride. A black plastic pipe that can handle high temperatures. Mostly used in water supply systems.

Cleanout Plug: A plug in a trap or drain pipe that provides access for the purpose of clearing an obstruction.

Closet Bend: A curved waste pipe fitting under a toilet that connects the closet flange to the drain.

Closet Flange: A ring that anchors the toilet to the floor and connects it to the closet bend. Also known as a Floor Flange or Toilet Flange.

Collar: A galvanized sheet metal restricting device used in conjunction with plastic pipe. Its function is to direct and control the intumescent action of the firestopping material.

Common Vent: An individual vent is permitted to vent two traps or trapped fixtures as a common vent. The traps or trapped fixtures being common vented shall be located on the same floor level

Compression Fitting: A kind of tubing or pipe connection where a nut and a sleeve or ferrule is placed over a copper or plastic tube and is compressed tightly around the tube as the nut is tightened forming a positive grip and seal without soldering. See Slip Joint.

Coupling: A short fitting used to join two pieces of pipe.

Cowl: A short fitting used to join two pieces of pipe.

Cross Connection: Any physical connection or arrangement between two otherwise separate piping systems, one of which contains potable water and the other either water of unknown or questionable safety or steam, gas, or chemical whereby there may be a flow from one system to the other, the direction of flow depending on the pressure differential between the two systems.

Crown Vent: A vent for a plumbing fixture in which the vent pipe is connected at the top of the curve in the pipe that forms the trap or within 2 pipe diameters of the trap.

Dam: A barrier in the trapway of a toilet that controls the water level in the toilet bowl.

Diaphragm: A flexible membrane in a valve that deflects down onto a rigid area of the valve body to regulate water flow from the supply lines. This eliminates the possibility of debris build-up within the valve.

Die: Cutting device used to thread pipe. A set of these attach to dieheads, and mounted on a threader.

Dielectric: A nonconductor of direct electric current.

Diffuser: A device used to reduce the velocity and increasing the static pressure of a fluid passing through a system.

Dip Tube: A tube inside the water heater that sends cold water to the bottom of the tank.

Disposal Field: (aka septic drain field) An area containing a series of one or more trenches lined with coarse aggregate and conveying the effluent from the septic tank through vitrified clay pipe or perforated, non-metallic pipe, laid in such a manner that the flow will be distributed with reasonable uniformity into natural soil.

Diverter: A faucet valve that redirects water from the tub faucet to the shower head.

Dope: A lubricant used by plumbers on pipe threads. Often called “pipe dope”.

Drain-Waste-Vent System: (DWV) A pipe system that drains wastewater from the bathroom and vents the drain system.

Drop Ell: An elbow having lugs for attaching it to a wall or joist. (aka Drop Elbow). Often used to connect supply line for handheld showerheads or sprayers.

Drum Trap: A type of water seal-type trap usually used in the 4x5-inch or 4x8-inch sizes. These traps have a greater sealing capacity than the "P" trap and pass large amounts of water quickly. Commonly connected to bathtubs, foot baths, sitz baths, and modified shower baths. No longer allowed in many jurisdictions due to not being self-scouring.

Effluent: Septic system liquid waste.

Effluent Treatment System: Physical, chemical, and biological processes are used to remove contaminants and produce treated wastewater that is safer for the environment.

Elbow: A curved fitting, usually 90° or 45°, used to change the direction of a pipe run. Also called an “ell.”

Escutcheon: A decorative metal flange or plate that covers and hides the supply line hole in the fixture or wall.

Ferrule: A ring, cap, or band (typically metal) that strengthens or forms a joint.

FIP: (aka FTP or Female Pipe Thread) Acronym for Female Iron Pipe (or Female International Pipe). Describes a pipe or fitting with threads on the interior.

Fitting: Any part that joins together two sections of pipe. Comes in many shapes, sizes & connection styles. Examples: elbows, couplings, bends, wyes, etc.

Fixture: Anything that accepts or discharges water or wastewater: faucets, sinks, toilets, tubs.

Flange: The rim or edge at end of a pipe shaft that aids in connecting it to another pipe or anchoring it to a surface.

Flapper: A rubber flap with ball-like shape in the bottom of a toilet lifts to allow flushing and seals off the tank for refilling. Allows water to flow from the tank into the bowl.

Flex Coupling: A rubber fitting that uses steel band clamps to attach to the pipe ends. Mostly used to join sections of DWV pipe, but also connects PVC to clay or cast iron pipe.

Flow Control Valve: Device designed to reduce water flow to a plumbing fixture. Often used to improve efficiency and reduce operating costs.

Flow Rate: Measurement of water flow through a plumbing system in gallons per minutes (GPM) or gallons per hour (GPH).

Flood-Level Rim: The edge of a plumbing fixture or receptacle over which water would flow if it were full.

Float Ball: A floating device connected to the ballcock inside the toilet tank to activate or shut off the ballcock.

Flush Valve: A device located at the bottom of the tank for flushing water closets and similar fixtures.

Flushometer Valve: A device that discharges a predetermined quantity of water to fixtures for flushing purposes and is closed by direct water pressures.

Flux: A jelly-like substance used in soldering copper pipes and fittings. Applied before soldering to aid bonding and prevent oxidation.

French Drain: (also trench drain, filter drain, blind drain, rubble drain, rock drain, drain tile, perimeter drain, land drain, French ditch, sub-surface drain, sub-soil drain or agricultural drain) is a trench filled with gravel or rock or containing a perforated pipe that redirects surface water and groundwater away from an area.

Galvanizing: The process of applying a coating of zinc to the finished product to provide corrosion protection. The coating can be applied by hot dipping or electrolytic deposition.

FUBAR: Acronym for F***ed Up Beyond All Recognition"

Gasket: Flat device usually made of fiber or rubber used to provide a watertight seal between metal joints.

Gate: A device that controls the flow in a conduit, pipe, or tunnel.

Gate Diverter: The pop-up lever on a tub faucet that activates the diverter valve.

Gauge: The thickness of stainless steel and is commonly used in reference to quality grades on certain types of lavatories and sinks. 10 and 20-gauge stainless steel sinks go through a number of polishing and buffing operations to ensure a beautiful finish.

GPF: Stands for Gallons Per Flush. The rate of water flow by which toilets and flush valves are measured and regulated. Current law requires maximum of 1.6 GPF. Older styles were usually 3.5 GPF.

Gravity Operated Toilet: A toilet which relies on the natural downward pressure of water in a toilet tank to flush the toilet effectively.

Grease Trap: A device that captures grease entering a system before it reaches the sewer lines. Usually used in commercial applications such as restaurants or cafeterias.

Greywater: aka sullage. All wastewater generated in households or office buildings from streams without fecal contamination, i.e. all streams except for the wastewater from toilets.

Groundwater: Water held underground in the soil or in pores and crevices in rock.

Hard Water: Natural water containing impurities in various proportions. Traditional hardness is a measure of calcium, minerals or dissolved solids in a solution, measured in parts per million. Hard water generally ranges from 100 to 250 ppm.

Hanger: A device used to support pipes.

Hose Bibb: Sillcock. An outdoor faucet, also used to supply washing machines.

IAPMO: Acronym for International Association of Plumbing & Mechanical Officials®

ID: Stands for “inside diameter.” Measures the inside width of a pipe.

Impeller: A rotating wheel with vanes found inside a centrifugal pump. As it spins at high speed it draws fluids in and thrusts them under pressure to the discharge outlet.

Individual Vent: Individual vent permitted. Each trap and trapped fixture is permitted to be provided with an individual vent. The individual vent shall connect to the fixture drain of the trap or trapped fixture being vented.

Interceptor: A device for separating grease and oil from drainage systems.

IPC: Acronym for International Plumbing Code

IPS: An acrynym for Iron Pipe Straight thread. A shower valve denoted as IPS uses non-tapered straight-threaded fittings (see NPSM).

IRC: Acronym for International Residential Code

Jet Pump: A pump in which a small jet of steam, air, water, or other fluid in rapid motion lifts or otherwise moves by its impulse a large quantity of the fluid with which it mingles.

kPa: A metric unit for pressure. 100 kPa = one atmosphere.

Lavatory: Bathroom or washroom sink.

L Tubing: An industry standard for copper tubing defined by the tube wall thickness and identified by a “blue” strip. Type “L” copper tube wall is approximately 50 percent greater thickness than type “M”.

Leach Lines: Pipes that carry effluent from the septic system out to the leach field, a porous soil area where treated waste is emptied.

Leader: An exterior drainage pipe for conveying storm water from roof or gutter drains to the building storm drain, combined building sewer, or other means of disposal.

Low Consumption Toilet: A class of toilet designed to flush using 1.6 gallons of water or less. Also known as “water-saving” toilets.

M Tubing: An industry standard for copper tubing defined by the tube wall thickness. Identified by a “red” stripe.

Maceration: the use of a machine that reduces solids to small pieces in order to deal with rags and other solid waste. Also, macerating toilets, which use a grinding or blending mechanism to reduce human waste to a slurry, which can then be moved by pumping.

Main: The primary artery of the supply or drain system to which all the branches connect. Referred to as the Main Vent in the vent system.

Manifold: A fitting that connects a number of branches to the main; serves as a distribution point.

MaP score: Maximum Performance score. Represents the number of grams of solid waste (soybean paste and toilet paper) that a particular toilet can flush and remove completely from the fixture in a single flush.

Mapp Gas: A colorless, flammable gas made by combining liquefied petroleum gas with Methylacetylene-Propadiene. It is a stable, non-toxic fuel used in brazing and soldering.

MCL: Maximum Contaminant Level – The maximum level of a contaminant allowed in water by federal law.

Metal Fatigue: A breakage of the metal caused by the bending and flexing or the expansion and contraction of a metal part beyond its endurance limit.

MIP: (aka MTP or Male Pipe Thread) Acronym for Male Iron Pipe (or Male International Pipe). It describes a pipe or fitting with threads on the exterior.

Nipple: A short piece of pipe installed between couplings or other fittings.

No-Hub Connector: A connector for no-hub iron pipe consisting of a rubber sleeve and a stainless steel band secured by hose clamps. A variation, a neoprene sleeve with two adjustable steel bands, is used for connecting dissimilar materials, as when connecting new plastic pipe to an existing cast-iron drainpipe.

Non-ferrous: Not containing iron.

NPS: Acronym for Normal Pipe Size.

NPSM: An acryonym for National Pipe Straight Mechanical. Indicates straight / non-tapered threads on pipes and fittings. NPT: An acronym for National Pipe Thread. Indicates tapered threads on pipes and fittings. NSPC: Acronym for National Standard Plumbing Code.

O-Ring: A rubber washer that is round instead of flat. Used in valve stems to create a watertight seal.

Oakum: Loosely woven hemp rope that has been treated with oil or other waterproofing agent; it is used to caulk joints in a bell and spigot pipe and fittings.

OD: Stands for “outside diameter.” Measures the outside width of a pipe.

Offset: The term used to describe a pipe that connects two parallel pipes. Some offsets in a drainage system may require an offset relief vent.

Overflow Hood: On a bath drain, the decorative hood concealing the overflow.

Overflow Tube: The vertical tube inside a toilet tank that directs water into the bowl in case the ballcock malfunctions and prevents potential water damage caused by a tank overflow. A constant running condition alerts the user to an overflow problem. On most toilets, the overflow tube also has a refill tube flowing into it, which directs water from the ballcock through the overflow tube to the bowl, after a siphon break.

P-Trap: A trap with a vertical inlet and a horizontal outlet. The bend and trap arm make the shape resemble the letter "P".

PB: Stands for polybutylene. A bendable plastic tubing most often used to supply water to bathroom fixtures.

PE: Stands for polyethylene. A flexible plastic supply line.

Percolation: Part of the water cycle that occurs after precipitation and before storage during which water filters down through aerated soil due to gravity. After percolation, water is stored in groundwater reservoirs until it reaches a point where sunlight warms it and the water evaporates.

Percolation Rate: Environmental Engineering Dictionary. The rate, usually expressed as a velocity, at which water moves through saturated granular material.

Perforated Pipe: Pipe designed to discharge water through small, multiple, closely spaced orifices or nozzles, places in a segment of its circumference for irrigation purposes.

PEX:Stands for cross-linked polyethylene. A flexible plastic supply line that is stronger than PE. In bathrooms, it is used for water supply lines.

Pickling: Immersing pipe into acid bath for removal of scale, oil, dirt, etc.

Piezo Switch: The electronic switch the bather uses to control the whirlpool and optional heater. This switch, based upon the piezo-electric effect, generates a voltage when pressure is applied to it.

Plumber’s Putty: A dough-like putty that seals joints between fixture surfaces and metal pieces, such as the drain.

Plumbing Snake: A thin, flexible length of spiral-wound metal, which is inserted into a drain and rotated to clear anything that is clogged in the pipes.

Plunger: A rubber, silicone, or plastic suction cup attached to a handle used to free drain clogs. Also known as a “plumber’s helper”.

Pneumatic: Pertains to devices using compressed air.

Pop-Up Drain: Remote control drain assembly. Also known as a “trip lever drain” for tubs.

Positive Air Pressure Attenuator (PAPA): Used in conjunction with AAVs. system developed to resolve the problems of positive pressures (transients / back-pressure) within the drainage systems of multi-story and high rise developments.

Potable: Water that is suitable for consumption.

Pressure Balance Valve: A shower valve that monitors fluctuations in pressure to maintain balance between hot and cold water so that temperature remains constant.

Pressure Head: Pressure in a plumbing system. The unit of measure which is the vertical force exerted by water at a depth of one foot.

Pressure Tank: A container designed to hold gases or liquids at a pressure substantially different from the ambient pressure. This is often used in conjunction with a water pump to control water pressure in a well system.

PVC: Stands for polyvinyl-chloride. A rigid white plastic pipe used for bathroom drain, waste and vent pipes.

Reducer: A fitting that allows pipes of different sizes to be joined together.

Relief Valve: A valve that opens to relieve excess temperature and/or pressure in the system.

Relief Vent: Where the horizontal branch is located more than four branch intervals from the top of the stack, the horizontal branch shall be provided with a relief vent that shall connect to a vent stack or stack vent, or extend outdoors to the open air.

Return: A plumbing fitting with a 180-degree bend.

Re-Vent: A re-vent or revent pipe in a plumbing drain-waste-vent or DWV system is an auxiliary vent that is attached to the drain pipe close to an individual plumbing fixture. The re-vent or revent pipe is routed upwards above the fixture and then horizontally over to a tee that attaches it to the main stack vent pipe. At the fixture the revent pipe can connect immediately behind the plumbing fixture or it may be connected close to the fixture along a horizontal drain line that serves that fixture.

Riser: A supply line pipe that rises from one story to the next; also the short vertical pipes that bring water from the branch to the fixture.

S-Trap: Trap design which routes drainage vertically down through the floor to connect with the drainage waste vent (DWV).

Saddle Tee: Fitting that taps into the side of a pipe, used to make quick connection to an existing line.

Saddle Valve: A valve mounted on a pipe run by a clamping device, or saddle tee to provide a water supply for a low-demand device.

Sanitary Tee: San-T. Sani-Tee. A tee used as a fitting for a soil pipe; designed with a slight curve in the 90° transition so as to channel flow from a branch line toward the direction of the main flow.

Scald Guard: A valve designed to prevent extreme water temperature changes through pressure balance technology. When there is a drop in hot or cold water pressure, the scald-guard valve shifts back and forth behind the shower handle to compensate for the sudden change. This valve maintains a constant water temperature to help give you and your family a safe and enjoyable bathing experience.

Scale: A thin coating or layer, usually calcium on the bottom of a tank or interior parts that may prevent heat transfer.

Schedule: Numbers assigned to different wall thicknesses of pipe (e.g. sch 40).

Sediment: The substance that settles on the bottom of a water tank. Also known as lime.

Septic D-Box: Septic Distribution Box. A container used to receive septic system effluent from a septic tank and to re-distribute the effluent into a network of attached drain-field or soakaway bed absorption trenches & pipes.

Septic Tank: A tank used to detain domestic wastes to allow the settling of solids prior to distribution. Septic tanks are used when a sewer line is not available to carry them to a treatment plant.

Service Partner Plan (SPP): The Horizon Services Service Partner Plan (SPP) is a great way to be sure that in case of an emergency, you are guaranteed the priority service you deserve as a valued customer. Benefits, include, priority service for plumbing, heating and air conditioning calls (routine or emergency), a 15% discount on all repairs, and no additional charge for overtime or emergency calls!

Sewerage System: A system comprising all piping, appurtenances, and treatment facilities used for the collection and disposal of sewage, except plumbing inside and in connection with buildings served and the building drain.

Shattaf (aka Diaper Sprayer): Handheld bidet sprayer mounted near a toilet and used to wash excrement from the body or soiled diapers.

Shower Arm: Shower trim component that delivers water to the showerhead. Usually 1/2" NPT. The shower arm connects showerhead and water supply line behind a finished wall of the shower enclosure.

Shutoff Valve: Valves installed under sinks and toilets used to shut off water supply in the event of a malfunction or repair. Also called an Angle Stop, Straight Stop or Supply Stop.

Siphoning: The suction or pulling effect that takes place in the trapway of a toilet as it is filled with outgoing water and waste.

Sleeve: A pipe which is passed through a wall for the purpose of inserting another pipe through it.

Slip Joint: A telescopic joint between two parts that permits the parts to move in a lengthwise direction. Often used for P-traps under lavatories and sinks. It allows a raw end of pipe to slide into the threaded end of a fitting and secures with a threaded ferrule such as a slip nut. Slip Nut: A ferrule with a threaded hole through it for screwing onto a pipe as a fastener. It is used in conjunction with a washer or gasket to form a slip joint.

SNAFU: Acronym for Situation Normal All F***ed Up

Soft Water: Water that has been treated so that it has low mineral content.

Solder: A metal alloy that is melted to create a fused joint between metal pieces. Also the act of melting solder into the joint.

Soil Pipe: A pipe that carries waste from toilets.

Stack Vent (vent stack): A vent pipe that extends from the top of a soil-or-waste stack and connects to vent header or terminates outside.

Standpipe: a vertical pipe extending from a water supply, especially one connecting a temporary tap to the main.

Storm Sewer: A sewer used for conveying rain water, surface water, condensate, cooling water, or similar liquid waste.

Street Ell: A 90° elbow joint with a hub on one end and male threads on the other. Used to make an angled connection between pipe or tubing and a fitting with a hub.

Stub-Out: Short lengths of pipe installed during rough-in to which fixtures and drains will eventually be installed.

Sump: A pit or pool for draining, collecting, or storing water. A chamber which provides water to the pump. A tank or pit that receives sewage or liquid waste, located below the normal grade of the gravity system and that must be emptied by mechanical means.

Sump Pump: An automatic water pump powered by an electric motor for the removal of drainage, except raw sewage, from a sump, pit or low point.

Sump Vent: A vent from pneumatic sewage ejectors, or similar equipment, that terminates separately to the open air.

Sweating: Another term for soldering a pipe or joint for the purpose of sealing a new joint or mending a fault.

Sweep: A pipe bend fitting used in drains to permit smooth passage of waste.

T&P Valve: Temperature and pressure valve. A valve that opens to release excess pressure and temperature in a system.

Tailpiece: The section of pipe that runs between a fixture outlet and the trap.

Tee: A plumbing fitting in the shape of the letter “T,” used to connect three sections of pipe.

Tee Fitting: A fitting that allows another pipe to be joined at a 90-degree angle.

Teflon Tape: White tape made of fluorocarbon polymer. It has non-stick properties and is wrapped around pipe threads in a joint to create a tight seal.

Trap: A curved section of drain that traps a small portion of water to prevent sewer gases from escaping into the bathroom. “P” traps and “S” traps are the types of traps most commonly found in bathrooms.

Trap Adapter: Features a hub and slip joint connection and provides a means for adapting a solvent weld connection to a slip joint connection.

Trap Arm: the pipe between the trap weir and the vent pipe.

Trap Weir: The point on a trap where water will begin to flow down the trap arm.

Trap Seal: The water in a trap or toilet that prevents sewer gases from escaping back through the drain.

Trip Lever: Flush handle and actuating arm on a toilet tank. Also the lever that opens and closes the drain on the bathtub waste and overflow.

Turbidity: Water cloudiness caused by suspended particles.

Union: A three piece fitting that joins two sections of pipe, but allows them to be disconnected without cutting the pipe.

Urinal: A plumbing fixture which receives only liquid body waste and conveys the waste through a trap seal into a gravity drainage system.

Vacuum Breaker: An anti-siphon device that prevents the back flow of contaminated water into the water supply system in the event of a negative pressure condition.

Valve: A device that regulates the flow of water.

Valve Seat: The immovable portion of a valve. Water flow is stopped when the movable portion of the valve comes in contact with the valve seat.

Vanity: Bathroom cabinet with a wash basin set in the top.

Vent: A vertical or sloping portion of drain pipe that allows sewer gasses to escape from the house into the outdoor air and lets air into the drain system to keep air pressure balanced and prevent water in traps from being siphoned off.

Water Filter: A device that removes impurities by lowering contamination of water using a fine physical barrier, a chemical process, or a biological process.

Water Hammer Arrestor: A device installed near a fixture to absorb the hydraulic shock that happens when a fixture’s supply is suddenly shut off, causing water hammer, a loud banging noise in the pipes.

Water Service Pipe: The pipe from the water main or other sources of potable water supply to the water-distributing system of the building served.

Water Softener: A device or substance that softens hard water by removing certain minerals.

Wax Ring: A seal located between floor flange and toilet to prevent leakage and fumes.

Weeping Tile: An underground pipe designed to convey ground water away from a structure. Also known as Subsoil drainage pipe.

Wet Vent: A pipe that both drains wastewater and vents air into the drains. Connects two or more fixtures.

Wye Fitting: A drain fitting that allows one pipe to be joined to another at a 45-degree angle.

Yoke Vent: A pipe connecting upward from a soil or waste stack to a vent stack to prevent pressure changes in the stacks.

#glossary #plumbing terms

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mccarranhandymanservices-blog · 5 years ago

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wandaseella · 7 years ago

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When dealing with plumbing problems, it’s important that you’re taking care of things the right way. This article contains information to help you find the solution to your problem.

TIP! Stay away from bleach tablets, blue tablets for the toilet and other toilet odor removers. These products may well remove odors, but they have the side effect of damaging the rubber in your toilet, which can prevent your toilet from functioning correctly.

Avoiding frozen pies is easy if you ensure no area of your house ever falls below freezing and that any pipes which are exposed to such temperatures are protected with insulation. Your plumbing can freeze if the air around it is below 32 degrees. It could take some time in order for the pipes to thaw out so that you can have running water. But, more importantly, the pipes can burst, which will cause a huge mess and big repair bill.

TIP! You can check for damage to the floors around the toilets by checking for soft areas. Another great way to check is to actually sit on the toilet and move in a rocking motion, going back and forth from right to left to see how much give you feel.

When it gets very cold, your pipes may freeze. If it does, relieve the pressure in the pipe by turning on the tap so the water can be released as the pipe thaws. This reduces pressure to keep the pipe from bursting, which could prevent a big mess in your home.

Septic Tank

TIP! If you have multiple plumbing problems, schedule all of them to be fixed together. Of course, our natural inclination is to handle problems as they arise, but it helps to get everything done at once.

Pump out your septic tank at least every five years to keep it in proper working condition. Regular maintenance will keep sediment from backing up inside of the tank. Sediment can not only cause the sewage in the tank to back up into your house, but it can cause the tank to fail completely. Although it could cost a good deal of money to pump out your septic tank, it will cost a lot more having to clean sewage backup or having to fix or replace a septic tank.

TIP! Putting a cup of any kind of baking soda followed with a cup of white vinegar each month will keep your drain running smoothly. Cover the drain with a plug or rag as you wait for the chemical reaction between the vinegar and baking soda to happen in your pipes.

Get to know the tools and how they are used for the most success in plumbing. Read the instructions, which many people overlook, and check out the internet which has many resources to help with plumbing issues. Think ahead and learn everything you can before tackling a plumbing repair project. If you make things worse rather than better, you’ll have to pay expensive plumbing fees to fix the problems.

TIP! Putting in shower heads that are energy-efficient can save you a lot of money in energy costs. Showers and baths are responsible for the bulk of your hot water usage.

If you have a clogged toiled with a lower water lever, and the plunger isn’t working, try pouring in some warm water directly into the toilet. Repeat this as many times as necessary until your clog is gone, and you can flush normally once again.

TIP! Don’t treat your toilet like a garbage can if you want to avoid a lot of potential plumbing problems. Nothing should be flushed down the toilet except human waste and toilet tissue.

A strainer positioned over a drain can prevent stoppage by collecting food particles as they try to enter the drain. The strainer in the kitchen sink should be cleaned each time you have large particles trapped in it. You should also clean your bathtub strainer any time it is slow to drain.

TIP! When replacing your shower head, spend the money on a high-quality model. Many times, people think it is okay to buy the cheapest shower head that they can find.

To maintain your garbage disposal and avoid malfunction, you should regularly clean it. By having a regular cleaning routine, which includes a combination of lemon rinds, dish soap and even pits from a cherry, your disposal can be kept smelling fresh and running smoothly for many years to come.

Garbage Disposal

TIP! Prevention is vital for avoiding costly repairs to your plumbing. Clogs are the most commonly reported problems when it comes to plumbing issues.

It is important to run your faucet with cold water whenever you run your garbage disposal. The cold water helps the blades that are inside stay sharp, and will keep your disposal running smoothly. Don’t use hot water while running the garbage disposal. Hot water converts the grease in your trash to liquid form. When the liquified grease goes down the drain, it clogs the pipes.

TIP! If you are having trouble removing a clean-out plug, there are two ways to do it. The first method involves a hammer and chisel to loosen the fitting.

Putting in shower heads that are energy-efficient can save you a lot of money in energy costs. Most of the hot water used in the home is used while showering. You can save up to a few hundred dollars a year by simply installing shower heads that are energy efficient.

TIP! Research your plumber online even if you are in the position of not having the choice in which plumber is going to enter your home..

If the hose that leads to your kitchen sink has not been maintained or installed properly, you may notice that water is constantly draining to the dishwasher. Your hose must run in a hill pattern to avoid water mixing. Think of the St. Louis Arch — start from your sink, go uphill with the hose, and then down before connecting to the dishwasher. This way, only pressurized water can travel through the hose. Leakage won’t be an issue.

Prepared to fix the plumbing? These hints will help. Choose the best professionals available and inspect your system regularly. These tips deserve to be used.

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wandaseella · 7 years ago

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TIP! Noisy pipes that make squeaking or hammering sounds are an easy problem to fix. Anchor exposed pipes to get rid of noises.

Do you feel that your home’s plumbing is in good condition? Would you like to be able to update and repair it yourself? If you’re prepared, you have found the right article. You could acquire new skills and fix your plumbing problems yourself thanks to these tips.

TIP! If your water pipe freezes, switch on the nearest faucet tap to that pipe so that water can exit when the pipe thaws. This gives the pressure somewhere to go, and can keep them from bursting.

To keep your pipes from getting frozen, always maintain a temperature in the house above freezing and make sure all pipes exposed to outside elements are insulated properly. But, be advised that your pipes may freeze if the surrounding temperature near those pipes is less than freezing. In the best situation, it can take hours for frozen pipes to thaw and water to run freely again. The worst case would be that they burst, creating water damage and a big repair bill.

TIP! Ensure that a septic tank is emptied approximately five yearly, and make sure it is properly maintained. This will keep sediment from building and causing backup into the house, and possibly causing the septic system to fail.

To prevent your frozen pipes from bursting, leave the nearest faucet on to give the water a way to escape. Doing so provides pressure relief, and might spare you the damage of a burst pipe.

TIP! Never pay for a plumbing job completely until they have finished the job. Sometimes it is required to put a little money down before the job starts, but don’t ever pay the whole amount before you know the task is done correctly.

Stay away from bleach tablets, blue tablets for the toilet and other toilet odor removers. While these tablets may be an easy way to clean your toilet and hide odors, they also contain chemicals that can break down the rubber fixtures in your toilet. Long-term use of these products can slow or even stop the functioning of your toilet.

TIP! If your garbage disposal stops working, never try to fix it by reaching down with your hands. Garbage disposals always pose a possible threat, even when powered off or non-working all together.

If your toilet gets clogged, there is a low level of water in toilet, and the plunger is not working, you may fix the problem by dumping warm water from a bucket into your toilet from about waist level. Repeat this once your water goes back to a lower level.

TIP! Frequently inspect the floors around toilets for softness; this can tell you whether or not the floors are damaged. You can check for softness or weakness in the floor by placing one foot on each side of the toilet and rocking back and forth.

Don’t put fat, grease and other oils into the drain. Oils will eventually harden and clog up your drain. This can make your garbage disposal run slower. Keep a container in your kitchen that is used specifically for discarded grease.

TIP! Place a strainer over the drains to collect anything that could clog and cause stoppage. Thoroughly clean the strainer on a regular basis.

Make sure all the work on your plumbing is scheduled at one time. This allows you to save up for necessary parts and equipment while saving money on hiring a professional. This will cut down on your plumbing bill because they can not charge you for extra trips.

Garbage Disposal

TIP! If your home has a well for water and there are pink or orange stains in the sinks and tubs, this could be due to high iron content in your water. You can use water softener that you buy at the store to remedy this situation, or you can have a professional do it for you.

Flush your drain with a constant stream of cold water when operating your drain mounted disposal unit. When cold water hits the garbage disposal, it sharpens the blades. This keeps the disposal working properly. Don’t use hot water while running the garbage disposal. Hot water converts the grease in your trash to liquid form. When the liquified grease goes down the drain, it clogs the pipes.

TIP! Schedule one plumber to take care of all your issues in one single visit. This allows you to save up for necessary parts and equipment while saving money on hiring a professional.

Enzyme based pipe cleaners work really well at unclogging your pipes. These cleaners use natural bacteria to turn the sludge into a liquid, and remove it from your pipes. Some of the finest cleaners are enzyme cleaners.

TIP! Ensure that your sink’s overflow holes are clear. Sinks use overflow holes if they start to overfill, and this isn’t usually a problem, but it can be.

Clean out your dryer’s lint filter. This will ensure that your dryer operates efficiently and prevents fires. Check your lint trap for holes to make sure the lint is not going in your plumbing system.

TIP! By installing water-conserving shower heads in your bathrooms, you can save money on your monthly water bill. Most of the hot water we use is used while we are showering.

Clean the aerator to if you are dealing with low water pressure issues due to sediment buildup. You need to remove, disassemble, and clean the aerator with vinegar and a small brush. Rinse it and put it back on the faucet. If the problem was caused by a dirty aerator, cleaning it will increase the pressure.

TIP! Read the labels and choose a chemical drain cleaner with care. There are some drain cleaners on the market that may damage your pipes.

Do not attempt to remove grout from your plumbing. Grout can be broken up by yourself, however this generally is only a partial fix. This works better when you have plastic pipes as opposed to metal ones. However, you are likely going to have to call in a professional plumber to take care of this problem.

TIP! Water heaters often have a pipe that reaches from the drain pipe and this must be reconnected during installation of a new unit. It’s probably a recirculation pipe, and that can help your water remain heated without wasting water.

Now that you have the advice in hand, you can get going on taking care of your own plumbing needs. Avoid damaging your pipes by not using harsh chemicals. If not, keep reading to find out more.

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Everlast Plumbing Newington NSW 2127 http://ift.tt/2mrEw3g 1300 366 276

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