#1/72 Model Kit

[horseskullman]

1/72 Kotobukiya White-Glint

Colour scheme, weathering and decal placement is based on its appearance in the game’s intro cutscene.

[hobbystationerytagimi]

コトブキヤ　1/72 EZ-049 バーサークフューラー リパッケージVer.　ゾイド ZOIDS　再入荷しました。

[reversemoon255]

Zoids X Patlabor Hunter Wolf Metropolitan Police Department Specifications

Bonus Sunday review. Threw this guy together in about an hour. Very simple construction. But this was also the first Zoids crossover they announced, so it felt more novel than it does now. Plastic wasn't that fun to paint; it feels like something that appreciates a wash rather than lining, and that's just not my style. Not much else to say about this one.

[triangleofdog]

Model mail call .....

From the Macross/ Robotech anime, this piloted mecha.

Open box peek...

And a real world model of

JGSDF Type 60 106mm recoilless rifle carrier.

2 sets in the box! Some interior details too!

Nice easy kits...

[mevbotcrypto]

Why Acrylic Paints Are Perfect for Plastic Model Kits

When it comes to best paint for plastic models, the choice of paint can make or break the final look of your model. Whether you're building military vehicles, aircraft, or intricate diorama scenes, the quality of the paint you use plays a significant role in the realism and durability of your project. Among the various paint types available, acrylic paints stand out as the ideal choice for both beginner and expert modelers alike.

In this article, we'll explore why acrylic paints are the best option for plastic model kits, covering their benefits, application techniques, and how they can enhance your model-building experience.

1. Fast Drying Time

One of the main reasons acrylic paints are favored by modelers is their fast drying time. Unlike enamel or oil-based paints, which can take hours or even days to dry fully, acrylic paints dry to the touch within minutes. This allows you to work more efficiently, as you can apply multiple layers of paint or weathering effects without long wait times in between.

Key Benefits:

Speeds up the painting process

Ideal for layering and applying washes or highlights

Reduces the risk of smudging or accidental damage during painting

Fast drying times are especially important for modelers who are working on complex kits that require multiple coats, such as airplanes or military tanks with intricate detailing.

2. Easy to Use and Clean

Acrylic paints are water-based, making them much easier to work with than oil or enamel paints, which often require harsh chemicals for thinning and cleanup. With acrylics, all you need is water to thin the paint for airbrushing or to clean your brushes after a painting session. This makes acrylics far more convenient, especially for beginners who might be overwhelmed by more complicated paint types.

Key Benefits:

Simple cleanup using just water

No need for toxic solvents or thinners

More forgiving for beginners

Acrylic paints are also less likely to emit strong fumes, making them a safer option for indoor use compared to solvent-based paints.

3. Wide Range of Colors and Finishes

Acrylic paints come in an extensive range of colors and finishes, from matte to glossy, providing endless possibilities for customization. Brands like MiniArt, ICM, and Master Box offer paint sets specifically designed for modelers, ensuring that you can find the exact shades needed for historical accuracy or creative expression.

Key Benefits:

Wide variety of colors available

Multiple finishes to suit different modeling needs

Custom mixes are easy to create

For example, if you're working on a World War II diorama, you can easily find the right shade of olive drab for U.S. military vehicles or the correct camouflage pattern for German tanks.

4. Versatility in Application

Acrylic paints are highly versatile, as they can be applied using a paintbrush, airbrush, or even sponging techniques. Whether you're painting fine details on a 1/72 scale figure or covering large surface areas on a battleship model, acrylics offer excellent control and consistency.

Key Benefits:

Suitable for both airbrushing and hand-painting

Allows for detailed work and broad coverage

Compatible with various techniques such as dry brushing, washes, and weathering

Acrylic paints are particularly well-suited for weathering effects, as they can be easily thinned to create subtle, translucent washes that simulate dirt, rust, or battle damage on your models.

5. Smooth Finish with Minimal Brush Marks

When applied correctly, acrylic paints dry to a smooth, even finish with minimal visible brush marks. This is crucial for achieving a professional-looking model, as brush strokes can distract from the overall realism of your project. Acrylics can also be easily thinned to flow smoothly over surfaces, reducing the risk of unsightly streaks.

Key Benefits:

Produces smooth, uniform coverage

Minimal brush marks when applied thinly

Ideal for both small and large models

This smooth finish is especially important for models like aircraft or modern vehicles, where a clean, flawless paint job is essential to maintaining authenticity.

6. Safe and Environmentally Friendly

Acrylic paints are much safer for both the modeler and the environment compared to their enamel or oil-based counterparts. Being non-toxic and low in volatile organic compounds (VOCs), acrylics are a healthier choice for hobbyists who spend long hours working on their models.

Key Benefits:

Non-toxic and safe for indoor use

Lower environmental impact due to water-based formula

Safer for younger modelers or those with sensitivities

In addition to their safety profile, acrylics are much easier to dispose of, as they can be safely washed down the drain, unlike enamel paints that require special disposal methods.

7. Compatibility with Different Surfaces

While acrylic paints are primarily used for plastic models, they are also compatible with a wide variety of surfaces including metal, wood, and resin. This makes acrylics ideal for modelers who use mixed-media kits or add custom elements to their dioramas. Whether you're painting a plastic tank, a wooden base, or a resin accessory, acrylic paints adhere well to all of these materials.

Key Benefits:

Adheres to multiple surfaces

Ideal for mixed-media projects

Can be used for diorama bases, figures, and accessories

This versatility means that acrylics are a one-stop solution for most modeling projects, regardless of the materials involved.

8. Cost-Effective and Widely Available

Acrylic paints are generally more affordable and widely available than other types of paint. Most hobby shops and online stores, such as Plastic-Models-Store.com, carry a wide selection of acrylic paints in various colors and finishes. This accessibility makes it easy to restock on essential colors or try out new shades without breaking the bank.

Key Benefits:

Affordable and cost-effective

Widely available in hobby stores and online

Suitable for budget-conscious modelers

For those just starting out, the affordability of acrylic paints allows you to experiment with different techniques and colors without worrying about wasting expensive materials.

9. Excellent Adhesion and Durability

Acrylic paints offer excellent adhesion to plastic model surfaces, ensuring that the paint stays put even after multiple layers or weathering effects. Once cured, acrylics form a durable layer that resists chipping or peeling, making them ideal for models that will be handled or displayed frequently.

Key Benefits:

Strong adhesion to plastic surfaces

Long-lasting and resistant to damage

Ideal for models that require multiple layers of paint

This durability ensures that your model will maintain its appearance over time, even if it undergoes significant handling or display in varying conditions.

Conclusion: Why Acrylic Paints Are the Best Choice for Plastic Models

Acrylic paints have become the go-to option for modelers of all skill levels, thanks to their fast drying times, ease of use, and versatility. Whether you're painting small-scale 1/72 figures or large military vehicles, acrylic paints provide the control and finish needed to bring your models to life. Their non-toxic nature, affordability, and compatibility with a wide range of surfaces make them the perfect choice for hobbyists who value both quality and convenience.

Visit Plastic-Models-Store.com to explore our extensive selection of acrylic paints, perfect for your next plastic model project. From beginner-friendly paint sets to advanced airbrushing supplies, we have everything you need to achieve a flawless finish on your models.

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[defaultknightmain]

One of the best models I've made. 1/72 Huey by Italiair using the Royal Australian Air Force markings.

[westerncityrailroad]

[mad4toysuk]

Embark on a Historic Journey: Unveiling the New Airfix 1:72 Scale Spitfire Mk.Ia Model Kit

Step into the world of aviation history with the latest offering from Airfix - the 1:72 Scale Spitfire Mk.Ia Model Kit. Designed to captivate enthusiasts and model builders alike, this meticulously crafted kit promises an immersive experience as you recreate one of the most iconic aircraft of World War II. Let's embark on a journey through the features and intricacies of this remarkable model kit.

Authentic Detailing: At the heart of the Airfix Spitfire Mk.Ia Model Kit lies a commitment to authenticity and precision. From the sleek lines of its fuselage to the intricate details of its wings and cockpit, every aspect of this model exudes the essence of the legendary Spitfire. Whether displayed on a shelf or assembled as part of a diorama, the level of detailing will leave enthusiasts in awe of its historical accuracy.

Ease of Assembly: While the Spitfire Mk.Ia is revered for its complexity in the skies, Airfix ensures that assembling its model counterpart is a breeze. With carefully molded parts and comprehensive instructions, even novice model builders can embark on this project with confidence. The kit includes everything needed for assembly, allowing enthusiasts to focus on the joy of crafting and detailing their very own Spitfire masterpiece.

Versatile Display Options: Whether showcased individually or as part of a larger collection, the Airfix Spitfire Mk.Ia Model Kit offers versatile display options to suit any enthusiast's preferences. With its 1:72 scale, this model strikes the perfect balance between size and detail, making it an ideal centerpiece for desktop displays, aviation museums, or historical dioramas. Its timeless design ensures it stands out in any setting, sparking conversations and inspiring imaginations.

Educational Value: Beyond its aesthetic appeal, the Airfix Spitfire Mk.Ia Model Kit serves as an educational tool, offering insights into the engineering marvels of the Spitfire and the historical significance of its role in World War II. Assembling this model provides a hands-on learning experience, allowing enthusiasts of all ages to delve into the rich history of aviation while honing their modeling skills.

In conclusion, the New Airfix 1:72 Scale Spitfire Mk.Ia Model Kit represents the epitome of craftsmanship and historical reverence. With its authentic detailing, ease of assembly, versatile display options, and educational value, this model kit appeals to both seasoned enthusiasts and newcomers to the world of modeling. Whether you're a history buff, an aviation enthusiast, or simply someone who appreciates fine craftsmanship, the Airfix Spitfire Mk.Ia Model Kit offers a truly rewarding experience. Embark on your historic journey today and bring the legendary Spitfire to life in stunning detail.

[automaticharpy]

"ohhh they should make model kits of steel haze and SH ortus and nightfall and--"

WRONG. KOTOBUKIYA 1/72 SCALE "MAD STOMP"

[thestonecuttersguild]

2024 Wrap up.

Weird year for me modelling,that's for sure.

I started with the Airfix B-25 in 1/72, and really, I just don't build 72's. Had planned on building as Berlin Express, but it turned out that decal set that I thought I saw was in the wrong scale, so I sort of hobbled together this desert pink version from the spare decals.

Accurate Miniatures SBD was next, don't build this kit. IT's way too finicky. I had broken off the gunners ring after gluing the fuselage, so I ended up shelving the kit and moving on.

Next I worked the Hasegawa Typhoon, which is a pretty good kit. I did not have the paints for it, nor the money to spring for paint, so this too got shelved.

The Monogram T-6 came next, as a pallet cleanser for me, since I wasn't actually finishing any kits. As a bonus, this old vintage boxing of the kit happened to have a rear gunner. So I used the guns from the T-6 to finish the SBD.

As a glutton for punishment, I next did the Italeri Huey, been in my stash for years. Not that it's a bad kit, it was quite good actually. It just meant I had to really pay attention to interior details, as well as exterior. Huey is more of an armor kit than aviation.

At Oshkosh I picked up a few kits. This Tamiya P-51B RAF was one. Built it when I got home, and as a bonus there, the paints for the Mustang are the same as for the Tiffy, so I managed to finish that one too.

Finally I built the vintage Monogram Crusader that I pick up in Oshkosh, and that kit was a treat to build honestly.

Looking ahead to 2025, it'll be a North American kind of year. Thanks for checking it out!

[ivan-fyodorovich-k]

I’m gonna need this

[hellfiremodels]

my model building skills haven't gotten better i just bought a DSLR. Anyways, Revell's 1/72 gripen. Pretty decent kit, wish you could actually buy it.

[hobbystationerytagimi]

コトブキヤ　1/72 クレスト CR-C840/UL クレスト軽量級Ver.　アーマード コア ARMORED CORE　再入荷しました。

[jbry]

Star Wars 1/72 scale Rebel Base at Yavin IV

X wing and Y wing are 1/72 scale Bandai model kits. The U wing is 3d printed and comes from aaskedall on Thingiverse. I scaled it to roughly 1/72 scale but I'm not sure how accurate it is.

The crates and such are 3d printed and come from several different Star Wars Legion designs from numerous websites, all scaled to 1/72.

The temple is made from insulation foam and foam board, and the tarmac is styrene. Everything was painted by me using an airbrush and brushes.

Dimensions: 20in L x 16in W x 9¼in H

[ultrajaphunter]

Launched in 1923, the S-44 was one of few “old pigboats” that saw extensive service in WW2 when the US Navy was desperate for Submarines after the onset of Pearl Harbor.

Serving on such boats took extra courage! I find these boats unique in that they were not the more well-known modern Gato or Balao-class boats,

but already had 20 years of service behind them when asked again to serve their country in time of war!.

With the leaks and deficiencies in these older submarines

(e.g., limited depth, speed,

no rear tubes,

and range capability), these boats still nonetheless served with distinction in WW2. S-44 earned two battle stars and has the distinction of being the first US Submarine in WW2 to sink an enemy cruiser -

that of the IJN heavy cruiser Kako in 1942 during the Battle of Savo Island!

But she was also tragically, the only S-Class boat to be lost to enemy action when she was sunk on 7 October 1943, as a result of surface gunfire with the Japanese Destroyer Escort Ishigaki off the Kuril Islands.

She was lost with only 2 survivors out of a complement of 38 crew (Lt.Cdr. Francis Elwood Brown went down with the ship).

Given this unique history, I wanted to build this boat!

I originally wanted to build the resin 1/350 S-Class model by Blue Water Navy but,

found it is very rare (if anyone has one, I am still interested as I collect 1/350 USN WW2 submarines).

With no luck in getting the 1/350 BWN model,

I decided to scratch-build one in 1/72. Given I had more time than usual with Covid19,

I started this project only in June 2020 and expect to finish in a month or so –

a record for my scratch-built projects which can last about a year minimum.

Here are pictures of the model in-progress thus far. It is not yet finished as I STILL have to add the many rivets found on these old boats!!!

The model was based on an old vacuform kit of a generic S-Class boat by the now defunct Combat Models.

However I found the old vacuform kit),

was not accurate in shape nor detailed enough as a start.

So far, the approach was to use the Combat Models as a guide to re vacuform the hull based on new plans I bought.

Methods included thermo forming,

along with styrene,

bass wood,

metal,

photo-etch,

resin casting,

and lots of gizmology parts from the spares box!

There is no major definitive book outlining the details of these old boats!

I relied solely on two grainy photos that exist of her as she exited Philadelphia Naval Shipyard in her last refit in summer 1943.

I also used photos of her near sisters (S-42 to S-46),

to guess at the rest of the details that could not be ascertained in those two old photos...

You will note that the boat had many details that are not symmetrical and aligned such as the flood holes (remember this boat was constructed in 1920!).

This is replicated on the model on purpose based on period photos of her flood hole arrangements.

While I thought a submarine would be relatively easy to scratch build,

I take that back as she has tons of little deck details.

The conning tower alone has about 150 parts itself.

In total, there will be about 400 parts to this “simple” sub.

It is not all scratch…the deck gun is from White Ensign Models

(but with more details added),

and the AA gun is from UM.

The S-44 was the only boat to mount this massive 4”/50 deck gun,

and her near sisters had the smaller 3” guns.

The paint scheme is of utmost challenge as she was simply “all black”.

I do not know how to go about it, but will tackle it one step at a time.

Thus the model represents S-44 after her final refit in June 1943,

and in what she might have looked at the time of her loss near Japan –

an old boat with a more modern conning tower!

This model is a tribute to all the crew on that boat, and those submariners still on “eternal patrol”.

I hope to contribute it and find a home for it one day at some naval museum.

More Pics on FB - Harvey Low

[mevbotcrypto]

Creating Realistic Battle Dioramas with Model Tanks: A Complete Guide

Introduction

Creating a realistic battle diorama with model tanks is an art form that allows hobbyists to bring history to life. It's about more than just assembling a model tank—it's about creating a dynamic scene that tells a story. Whether you're capturing a pivotal moment from World War II or a modern battlefield, a well-executed diorama can transport viewers into the heart of the action. This guide will take you through every step, from planning your scene to crafting terrain and setting up your model tanks for maximum realism.

1. Planning Your Battle Scene

Before you even touch your model tanks, it's essential to plan out your diorama's story and layout.

Choose a historical moment: Start by selecting a specific battle or event you want to depict. Whether it’s the Battle of the Bulge or a desert conflict involving modern armor, having a historical context will guide your scene.

Select a focal point: What is the main action in your diorama? It could be a tank advancing, a firefight, or soldiers preparing for an ambush. Choose one focal point and build the scene around it.

Sketch the layout: Draw a rough sketch of your scene. This will help you plan where to place your model tanks, figures, and terrain features like hills, rivers, or buildings.

2. Gathering Supplies and Materials

Creating a realistic diorama requires a variety of materials beyond just your model tanks.

Base materials: Use a wooden or foam base for your diorama. Foam is easy to carve into terrain, while wood offers stability.

Terrain supplies: You’ll need plaster, static grass, dirt, and sand to create realistic ground textures. You can also use modeling clay for more intricate features like hills or craters.

Paints: Acrylic or enamel paints in earthy tones (browns, greens, grays) will help you create realistic terrain. You’ll also need weathering powders for dust, dirt, and mud effects.

Accessories: Model figures, vehicles, and buildings will help bring your diorama to life. Choose pieces that fit your chosen time period and conflict.

3. Building the Base of Your Diorama

The base of your diorama sets the scene for the entire model, so it’s essential to get the foundation right.

3.1 Carving the Terrain

If your scene involves uneven terrain, like hills or trenches, you'll need to carve and shape the ground.

Use foam or clay: Foam is lightweight and easy to carve with a hot wire cutter or knife. Sculpt the terrain to fit your scene, adding trenches, ridges, or craters where needed. Clay can also be used to build up specific areas for a more detailed landscape.

Apply plaster: For added texture, apply a thin layer of plaster over the foam. This will create a rough, natural-looking surface.

3.2 Adding Ground Texture

Once the terrain is shaped, it’s time to add ground texture to make it look more realistic.

Use sand and gravel: Sprinkle fine sand or gravel over your base, securing it with diluted white glue. This mimics dirt and rocks on the battlefield.

Static grass: For grassy areas, use static grass applied with glue. You can find static grass in different lengths and colors, depending on the terrain you're modeling (e.g., lush grass for Europe or dry brush for desert scenes).

4. Painting the Terrain

Painting the terrain is crucial to making your diorama look lifelike.

Basecoat: Start with a basecoat in earth tones—browns for soil, greens for grass, and grays for rocky areas.

Dry brushing: Use dry brushing to highlight raised surfaces. This technique involves dipping your brush in paint, wiping off most of it, and lightly brushing over the terrain to highlight textures.

Shading: Add depth by shading the recesses and low points of the terrain with darker tones. This creates the illusion of shadows and adds realism to the scene.

5. Assembling and Positioning the Model Tanks

Now that your base is ready, it’s time to bring in the main stars of your diorama—the tanks.

5.1 Building the Model Tanks

If you haven’t already, build and paint your model tanks following the steps outlined in a previous guide. Pay attention to details like battle damage, weathering, and camouflage to make them look battle-worn.

Weathering for realism: Apply techniques like washes, dry brushing, and chipping to make the tanks look used. Don’t forget to add mud or dust to the tracks to blend them into the scene.

5.2 Positioning the Tanks

Where you place the tanks in your diorama can make or break the realism and drama of the scene.

Dynamic placement: Avoid placing the tanks in a straight line or static positions. Angle them as if they’re advancing, turning, or navigating difficult terrain. This adds movement and action to your diorama.

Interaction with the terrain: Make sure the tanks look like they’re part of the scene, not just sitting on top of it. Sink the tracks slightly into the ground to show weight and add mud or dust to blend them into the terrain.

6. Adding Figures and Vehicles

To truly bring your battle scene to life, you’ll want to add figures and other vehicles.

Model soldiers: Position soldiers around the tanks in natural poses. Some may be loading ammunition, while others take cover or advance with the tanks. Ensure their uniforms and weapons are historically accurate for the time period.

Other vehicles: Consider adding jeeps, half-tracks, or other military vehicles to create a more complete battlefield scene.

7. Creating Realistic Battle Damage

If you’re depicting a battle scene, battle damage is a must.

7.1 Tank Damage

Adding visible damage to your model tanks can make them look like they’ve been through the heat of battle.

Bullet holes: Use a small drill bit to create bullet holes in the tank’s armor. Add a bit of black paint around the holes to simulate scorching.

Burn marks: Apply black and gray weathering powders around engine areas or hatches to show where explosions or fires occurred.

Dents and scratches: Lightly scratch the surface with a knife or sandpaper to simulate wear and tear on the tank.

7.2 Battle Damage on Terrain

Don’t forget to add signs of battle to the terrain as well.

Crater effects: If your scene involves artillery or airstrikes, add craters to the terrain. Shape them out of foam or plaster, and paint them in dark earth tones.

Debris: Scatter broken pieces of wood, metal, and other debris around the battlefield to show the aftermath of combat.

8. Adding Smoke and Explosion Effects

To add drama and action to your diorama, consider incorporating smoke and explosion effects.

Cotton for smoke: Use cotton balls or pillow stuffing to create smoke effects. Paint them with black or gray spray paint, then glue them around damaged areas of the tanks or terrain.

Explosion effects: For an exploding tank or artillery strike, you can create a "frozen moment" by combining cotton with small LED lights. The cotton can simulate smoke or flames, while the LED lights add a glowing effect.

9. Final Touches

Before you call your diorama complete, spend time adding the small details that will make it stand out.

Weathering the entire scene: Apply weathering powders across the scene to create a unified look. Add dust to the tanks, dirt to the soldiers, and mud to the vehicles.

Details matter: Add tiny details like footprints in the mud, discarded equipment, or bullet shells scattered on the ground.

10. Displaying Your Diorama

After all your hard work, it’s time to display your creation. Choose a display case or base that complements the diorama without distracting from it. Position lighting to highlight key features, like your tanks or figures in action, and consider using a glass case to protect your work from dust and damage.

Conclusion

Creating a realistic battle diorama with model tanks is both challenging and rewarding. By carefully planning your scene, using proper techniques to build the terrain, and positioning your tanks and figures with purpose, you can create a vivid, dynamic display that tells a compelling story. With patience and attention to detail, your diorama will capture the intensity and drama of historical conflicts, providing a snapshot of history in miniature form.

FAQs

What scale is best for a tank diorama?

Most hobbyists prefer 1/35 scale for tank dioramas because it strikes a good balance between detail and size.

Do I need special tools to create terrain for my diorama?

Basic tools like a hot wire cutter, hobby knife, and brushes will suffice for most terrain-building tasks. You can also use specialized terrain modeling tools if needed.

How do I make the tanks look like they’re part of the scene?

Sink the tank tracks slightly into the ground and add weathering effects like mud or dust to blend the model with the terrain.

Can I add moving parts or electronics to my diorama?

Yes! Some modelers incorporate small motors for rotating tank turrets or LEDs for lights and explosions to add dynamic elements to the scene.

How long does it take to complete a battle diorama?

It depends on the complexity of the scene and the level of detail, but on average, a diorama can take anywhere from a few weeks to several months to complete.

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