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The Slow Fashion Movement - WEEK 7

In today’s post I'm going to be discussing fashion! The fashion industry is faced paced and always has new trends and emerging styles. I know I love to keep up with the latest fashion trends and social media helps me do that, especially through instagram. ‘Fast fashion’ is influencing how people produce and consume fashion these days as everyone is seeking for the cheapest, hottest trends. However there is a current global market that is growing a trend towards ‘slow fashion’ which focuses on quality and sustainability of fashion. 

‘Fast fashion’ has caused overconsumption and for consumers to buy more clothes than they need. This just leads to fashion waste and has an impact on social and environmental standards. “Over the past decade, companies have realised that sustainablity and ethical conduct have become to matter in fashion” (Moisander and Personen 2019). Nowadays fashion is very contradictory, as people say they believe in sustainability however continue to purchase inexpensive fashions. In the last few years ethical fashion/sustainable fashion has been a popular topic in the media. This has encouraged the growth of the ‘slow-fashion movement. Slow fashion involves the concepts of fast fashion, social responsibility, sustainability and transparency within the fashion system. “Fashion that is not time based, but is about producing, designing and consuming better” (Nakano 2009).

Slow fashion can be described as the ‘farmers market’ approach. “Each garment has a story and consumers have more appreciation and personal connection with their clothing” (Johannson, 2010). Slow fashion is very prevalent with fashion influencers. Jessica Stein (@tuulavintage on Instagram), an instagram influencer with 2.3 million followers promotes many slow fashion brands in her posts to her followers such as Spell and Anthropology, both ethically aware brands who focus on making slow fashion. Influencers like Jessica, are crucial to the movement to raise awareness and what slow fashion looks like, giving inspiration to her followers. Slow fashion practices can impact the future of the global fashion industry in ways that can improve corporate behaviour, corporate social responsibility and sustainability.

REFERENCES:

Pookulangara. S, Shephard. A, 2013, ‘Slow fashion movement: Understanding consumer perceptions - An exploratory study” Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, Vol 20, Iss 2, pp 200-206

Hall. J, 2017, ‘Digital Kimono, Fast Fashion, Slow Fashion?” Fashion Theory, Vol 22, Iss 3 pp 283-307 

Brewer. M.K, 2019, ‘Slow Fashion in a Fast Fashion World: Promoting Sustainability and Responsibility’ Laws, Vol 8, Iss 4

Jessica Stein <https://www.instagram.com/tuulavintage/>

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The Devil Wears Sustainability. (Week 7 - Fashion)

Fashion. You either love the idea of it or you hate it. 

Fashion is something that has been around for centuries and has shaped the ‘look’ of every century in some way shape or form - like c’mon what was happening with puffy short shorts and codpieces?

Terrifying outfits aside, in the 21st century, I think it’s reasonable to suggest that when anyone visualises the fashion industry, they think of the impeccably dressed Meryl Streep in The Devil Wears Prada and how the movie portrays the industry.

Cutthroat. Ruthless. Beautiful. Breathtaking. 

All of those words will resonate with someone's idea of fashion. And with more and more people shopping online - through sites like The Iconic and ASOS - fashion is becoming an increasingly digital venture. Which means that savvy consumers are looking more closely at what is happening in the fashion world and where their clothes are coming from. This is why the movement of ‘slow’ or sustainable fashion emerged.

But what does that even mean? And how do you know what’s ‘slow’ fashion? And no, it’s not just wearing a hessian sack (like I thought). In fact, it is actually more complicated than The Paper Bag Princess.

‘Slow’ fashion seeks to slow down the pace of fashion life cycles. There are not five different ‘spring looks’ in sustainable fashion, there is longevity in the garment and style. There is a strong focus on quality rather than quantity that incorporates environmental, social and economic elements. This helps to better protect the environment and the workforce.

With the prominence of this fashion trend increasing every year, there has been a stronger uptake from big brands like H&M, Marks & Spencers and Stella McCartney. But how did they know what classifies as ‘slow’ fashion? Is there a certain criteria for it? 

I am glad you asked as yes, yes there is a criteria that was set out by Fletcher in 2008. They state that:

Across the entire supply chain, anything produced must be child labour free

Any materials used must be recycled, upcycled and/or more durable, reinforcing the fact that ‘slow’ fashion is very different to ‘fast’ or ‘throw away’ fashion

Production must be both socially and ethically responsible (i.e., fair wages and promotes local jobs)

Promote long-term relationships between all aspects of the supply chain, leading to fair prices and wages as well as helping to develop positive relationships that foster ‘slow’ fashion as a movement

Brands who wish to become more environmentally friendly and ethically sound must consider if they can sustain those four points within their business. If they can’t, then they cannot become a ‘slow’ fashion representative. 

Have I piqued your interest in investing in the ‘slow’ fashion movement? Want to help foster some sustainable fashion habits? Below is a list of some of the most prominent sustainable clothing brands, initiatives and influencers to help you along in your journey. 

Hail and well met - see you on the fashion road! 

https://bigsisterswap.co.uk/

https://www.biome.com.au/

https://www.instagram.com/tuulavintage/

https://www.instagram.com/the_second_runway/

https://www.instagram.com/littlepineneedle/

https://threadharvest.com.au/

https://slowclothes.com.au/

https://www.instagram.com/venetiafalconer/?hl=en

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Week 9: Social Media Influencers and the Slow Fashion Movement

The centre of this week's topic concernered the Slow Fashion movement, Digital Citizenship and Social Media Influencers, and how they promote sustainability within the fashion industry. Activism, digital ethics and sustainability are some of the primary notions epitomised in one of the main readings for this week. Author Zhen L signifies the importance of "environmental, social and economic responsibility", and "how it should not be unique [to sell] propositions, but rather the norm within the fashion industry." (Zhen, L., et al. 2017, p. 15). Digital ethics and responsibilities affected by ‘slow fashion’ communications empower digital citizens to steer away from the fast fashion industry due to ethical, economical and environmental reasons. Furthermore, it enables individuals to live a more sustainable lifestyle to partake in a sustainable and eco-aware society.

What is slow fashion movement?

Slow fashion is the widespread reaction to fast fashion. It’s thoughtful, intentional, and holistic. It’s also an argument for hitting the brakes on excessive production, overcomplicated supply chains, and mindless consumption. (Stanton, 2021)

Image source: https://www.google.com/search?q=slow+fashion&rlz=1C5CHFA_enAU915AU916&sxsrf=ALeKk00XFGsQj1CeBlNr_Lj2hyBi_i_VhQ:1621937271835&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiq1L2Xy-TwAhVZ7nMBHbrDAA8Q_AUoAXoECAEQAw&biw=1434&bih=748#imgrc=mvo3CTdtIgS5mM

“Seventy-five percent of fashion supply chain material ends up in landfills. This amounts to ‘the equivalent of one garbage truck of textiles per second.’” ("Pulse of the fashion industry 2019 — GLOBAL FASHION AGENDA", 2019)

The term 'Slow Fashion' was first neologized by author, design activist, and professor Kate Fletcher. Kate defines slow fashion as "quality-based rather than time-based." Other slow fashion pathfinders note that the movement promotes slower production, consolidates sustainability with ethics, and sequentially urges consumers to invest in well-made and lasting clothes.

Image source: https://www.google.com/search?q=slow+fashion&rlz=1C5CHFA_enAU915AU916&sxsrf=ALeKk00XFGsQj1CeBlNr_Lj2hyBi_i_VhQ:1621937271835&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiq1L2Xy-TwAhVZ7nMBHbrDAA8Q_AUoAXoECAEQAw&biw=1434&bih=748#imgrc=jfcwDBXtjisnPM

The environmental and economic impact of fast fashion vs slow fashion

Image source: https://www.google.com/search?q=fast+fashion+vs+slow+fashion&rlz=1C5CHFA_enAU915AU916&sxsrf=ALeKk00DbSa9oDgeobvyZ0s4OEwoCYA4dg:1621946105959&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=1E1fMOHhtPbfaM%252CJn2Zk-OcAiNfUM%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kR-iFUzq4je-5kuIuNQqCgE0ZNrqw&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiN3PWL7OTwAhUX73MBHdhUCysQ_h16BAgLEAE#imgrc=1E1fMOHhtPbfaM

Image source: https://www.google.com/search?q=fast+fashion+vs+slow+fashion&rlz=1C5CHFA_enAU915AU916&sxsrf=ALeKk00DbSa9oDgeobvyZ0s4OEwoCYA4dg:1621946105959&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=1E1fMOHhtPbfaM%252CJn2Zk-OcAiNfUM%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kR-iFUzq4je-5kuIuNQqCgE0ZNrqw&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiN3PWL7OTwAhUX73MBHdhUCysQ_h16BAgLEAE#imgrc=qtrejPvmvMwyfM

Video source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mKPB0uW4cto&t=1s

How to use your voice and push back against fast fashion: 

Part of the support for the slow fashion movement involves activism against fast fashion. In reality, if brands don’t hear from customers, they have no reason to switch their supply chains. So, to use your voice and help stop fashion you can: 

Use social media platforms and ask fast fashion brands about production practices. 

You can write to brands, too via email! 

Some questions you can ask is: 

1. How do you package and ship your garments?

2. Does your brand give back or support any social initiatives?

3. Where do you source your textile materials?

4. Could you provide a transparent breakdown of your supply chain?

5. Do you have a third party to conduct regular audits of your factories?

What else can I do to contribute to the slow fashion movement? 

- Buy secondhand & vintage clothing 

- Avoid fast fashion brands 

- Repair, redesign & up-cycle 

- Rent, Lease & Swap

- Buy higher quality items with sustainable material as they tend to last longer.

Here are some of the fashion influencers on social media who promote slow fashion:

1. Kathleen Elie - @consciousnchic (Micro-Influencer)

https://www.instagram.com/consciousnchic/?hl=en

Kathleen, aka Kat, has been blogging since 2009. She is a pioneer when it comes to speaking about ethical fashion. 

Image source: https://goodonyou.eco/sustainable-fashion-influencers-to-follow-in-2020/

2. Marielle Elizabeth - @marielle.elizabeth (Micro-Influencer)

Marielle is another influencer example who promotes sustainable fashion. She advocate “slow fashion on a plus size body” with her hashtag #slowfashionforall. Marielle’s Instagram feed is full of body positivity and inclusive photography, whilst still supporting and promoting slow fashion brands. 

Image source: https://goodonyou.eco/sustainable-fashion-influencers-to-follow-in-2020/

3. Céline Semaan - @celinecelines (Micro-Influencer)​

Image source: https://goodonyou.eco/sustainable-fashion-influencers-to-follow-in-2020/

Céline Semaan is another influencer who promotes slow fashion. She’s a sustainable and ethical fashion veteran, designer, advocate, writer and founder of Slow Factory (a design lab working with companies to research and implement sustainability-focused initiatives, from waste recovery to software to manufacturing). ("Sustainable Fashion Influencers to Follow in 2020", 2020) She writes for popular magazines and articles, including The Cut, Elle, Refinery29, Huffington Post, among others.

https://www.instagram.com/celinecelines/?hl=en

4. Big Sister Swap @bigsisterswap (Micro-influencer)

https://www.instagram.com/bigsisterswap/?hl=en

Big Sister Swap is the world's only online personalised Swapping service, letting you send in your unwanted clothes and receive handpicked preloved clothes in return. ("About us", n.d.)

5. Jessica Stein - @tuulavintage (Mega-influencer)�� 

https://www.instagram.com/tuulavintage/

Jessica Stein actively supports sustainable brands on Instagram that are plant-dyed and ethically dyed labels like Auguste The Label and Yöli&Otis while taking pictures of them in exotic locations (Garnsworthy 2018).

References:

Stanton, A. (2021). What Does Slow Fashion Actually Mean?. Retrieved 25 May 2021, from https://www.thegoodtrade.com/features/what-is-slow-fashion#:~:text=Slow%20fashion%20is%20the%20widespread%20reaction%20to%20fast%20fashion.&text=She%20defines%20slow%20fashion%20as,well%2Dmade%20and%20lasting%20clothes.

Pulse of the fashion industry 2019 — GLOBAL FASHION AGENDA. (2019). Retrieved 25 May 2021, from https://globalfashionagenda.com/initiatives/pulse/

Sustainable Fashion Influencers to Follow in 2020. (2020). Retrieved 25 May 2021, from https://goodonyou.eco/sustainable-fashion-influencers-to-follow-in-2020/

Kowalski, K 2019, What is Slow Fashion (vs Ethical & Sustainable Fashion)?, Retrieved 25 May, 2021, <https://www.sloww.co/slow-fashion-101/>.

Garnsworthy, J 2018, Meet the Influencers Leading the Slow Fashion Movement, Retrieved 25 May, 2021, <https://stylecaster.com/slow-fashion-influencers/>.

Zhen, L., Claudia, H., & Panayiota, A. 2017, ‘An exploration of Consumers’ Perceptions Towards Sustainable Fashion – A Qualitative Study in the UK’, Sustainability in Fashion A Cradle to Upcycle Approach, Palgrave.

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