sylvinargentina

[sylvinargentina]

Last day + Travel Home

On the last day in South America Amanda and I were both tired from yesterday so we didn’t plan to do much.

The only plan was to check out the Vila Magdalena (hipster street art district). We found a bus that went directly there and left the apt around 10:30.

We saw a lot of amazing street art and then had a little bit of a hike uphill to the metro stop. But it’s a nice neighborhood.

We took the green metro to the yellow line for one stop and went to a Brazilian steakhouse.

You might be shocked but I have never been to a US Brazilian steakhouse... I’ve been to a Texan one but it was definitely different. This was a lot of good food and again we decided it was ok to spend a little more since it was my last day.

This place was recommended by our SF friends from the day before and they also warned us the drinks were what was expensive. We stuck to water, they ask you when they seat you, but we had like 6-8 bottles (they’re small) and that was definitely a large part of the bill. But even with that the buffet plus unlimited really good meat and a dessert was only $50usd/person. And it was yummy!

The buffet had salads and salad fixings, grilled veggies, cheeses and sushi. They automatically brought us 5 different plates of breaded things (cheesy bread - a delicious must!, onion rings, fries, tater-tots and polenta squares).

Then you turn your card to green and you’re off! Amanda had to help remind me to pace myself. I kept the green up because I was expecting them to come around with each type of meat in an order. But for awhile they kept bringing the same stuff so I turned my card red for awhile. In the end I had a lot of meat, I even had to order one cut (7-10 min wait). But towards the end Amanda would share a bite of the one piece of meat I got and that was more than enough food. Somehow we still had room for a dessert which was totally worth it. When we were done we asked for a taxi outside and the place pulled their personal van out and drove us back to our Airbnb!

We headed back because we thought we’d meet up with Amanda’s other friends but they didn’t wake up in time (one had picked up the other at the airport at 5/6a that morning). So we spent about an hour hanging out at the apartment. I took a desperately needed shower since we sweated a lot during our walking around that morning. And charged my phone as much as I could.

I caught an Uber at 3:30 to give me more than ample time since there were blocos (carnival block parties) happening all over town. They started in some neighborhoods at 9am. Amanda and I had seen a few people dressed up (think Pride outfits) when on the metro. The drive took an hour since the international airport is super outside of the city but was only $18 USD.

Had awhile to wait in the airport since got there early. Luckily they had internet so I posted the rest of all my trip photos to Facebook. I took Emirates and there were only about 20 people getting on this 787 and even there were people still on the flight continuing there was definitely enough room for pretty much everyone to get their own row. I should have slept the whole flight but due to getting food right in the middle o watched one and a half movies. I got the last hour to sleep but the flight attendants woke me up just to put the seat backs up... they were up almost all the way... just the last 5 cm or something it was obnoxious that they woke me up for that! Then when we landed they wouldn’t let us economy “commoners” even see the fancy people in business class get off. They kept the curtains closed and wouldn’t let us go until business class had deplaned.

After getting off the plane I made my way quickly to the front of the pack which was good because the customs line was already long. And I was getting more and more cranky the more sleep deprived I got. All the suitcases were just sitting on an unmoving conveyor belt by the time I arrived... it took that long. And the whole plane was behind me in line.

Then went through immigration and finally found the taxi booth for the free shuttle to the hotel... that was an ordeal. One booth said to go outside, we went outside but they told us we needed a ticket back inside... turns out there was a second booth. There were about 5 other people this happened to as well.

Finally got in a van but we had to wait to fill the van... so that took another 20 min and I’m sitting here like... I have to wake up at 4:15a... it is 12p... why did I get this hotel?!

Anyway, I arrived at the hotel finally at 12:30, checked in and went to the room. I didn’t sleep well but pretty sure would have slept worse in the airport.

Woke up at 4:15a and now I’m at the airport for a 6:55 flight 2 hours early... and there’s even another Lima Avianca flight leaving at 6:05... so the announcements are confusing.

It’s going to be a long day of a trip back. Same stops: Santiago to Lima, Lima to San Salvador (El Salvador), San Salvador finally home. Should be arriving 8pm Sunday night 10th. Hopefully that stays true. And of course I was an idiot and go straight to work tomorrow/Monday morning.

Although this trip is/was totally worth it! Just don’t talk to me for like a week ;)

[sylvinargentina]

Last full day - São Paulo day 2

Today we went on a 3.5 hour free walking tour around the historico centrico.

I woke up at 8:30, had a breakfast here... this Airbnb is like a hotel so they had a free breakfast and made our bed every day.

Amanda and I left around 10:15a to take the bus and get to the 11:30 walking tour.

We did a little detour one metro stop past the tour start point to see if we could get a refillable card vs buying one off tickets every time we take the metro or bus. This card was supposed to be at a “bus terminal” but we had an infuriating experience with people telling us there’s no such card and we had to go back and forth between metro stop and bus terminal.

We were running out of time so went back to the tour starting point.

The tour was long but interesting. We learned:

- Brazil is the 5th largest country in the world, 208 million people, 12 million just in São Paulo.

- Founded 1554 (Portuguese probably came before this is when the paperwork was done)

- Coffee and sugar cane are big exports

- There was a 14 year old king at one point

- Eliminating slavery brought European immigrants but overpopulation too

- Due to immigration there’s a lot of Japanese and Italian people here.

- 1984 was a huge protest to be able to democratically elect a president

- 1925 their first public library was created

- Valentine’s Day isn’t the 14th, it’s in June, because that’s when the st Day is but also carnival is in Feb

- A lot of bank buildings have been turned into cultural centers (at least 3 throughout the city)

- Sadly many buildings that were here including the original mission and the palace that replaced it have been demolished... so not many pictures of old/beautiful buildings

On the tour we met 2 others from the Bay Area and one of them was traveling with someone from Chicago. So after the tour the 5 of us went to the Mercado municipal. We got to try this well known mortadella, mustard and cheese sandwich. We also tried the famous Brazilian drink - caipirinha - made with cachaça. Basically a mojito but tastes different since not rum.

We then headed to the metro and to Avenida Paulista. The main new downtown avenue. Had a few interesting modern buildings, a rose garden and turns out a protest. Specifically about this trans woman who was executed by the government. So because it’s women’s day women were protesting the government near the main art museum.

After having some water and finishing walking up the avenue, one guy split off and the rest of the 4 of us took the metro and tried for the card again. One of the other pair that came with us spoke Portuguese and turns out there’s no way to get a card that works for all types of transport without a Brazilian social security type number... fun. So we headed to a meat place for dinner and had a nice lighter meal. The 3 others got more caipirinha but I was so thirsty after today’s hot walk that I downed 4 bottles of water by myself. For dinner amanda and I shared a steak and mashed potatoes.

We came home and I took a shower immediately I was so sweaty and gross after todays long walking and humidity. Super tired so going to sleep so I have enough energy for my last day (half day really) in South America/Brazil.

[sylvinargentina]

São Paulo Day 1

Today was another travel day. I woke up and quickly got the breakfast while Amanda slept a little more. Breakfast was a little chorizo and egg but a lot of sweet pastries and cakes which I didn’t partake in.

We checked out around 9:30 and got to the airport around 10. The airport was that same direction as the park and almost the same distance. Just a little sooner on the same road as yesterday.

Check-in was weird. Instead of having the desks up front they did a bag/immigration check first to go into the check-in area. Then another security checkpoint for you and your bags after the bag check/check-in desk.

It went pretty quick so we had a little while to wait. Didn’t have much WiFi but had downloaded an app about Brazil and spent the time reading up about São Paulo’s history and tourist things to do. Amanda also bought some cheese bread for both of us. Good thing too because lunch didn’t happen until 3p (after a 9am breakfast)... so again was getting a little hungry.

We arrived around 1:30 but had to get our bags, go to the bathroom and checkin with the information desk for tourist info and if there was easy transport to our Airbnb destination. Sadly no such lunch... although we supposedly picked a really nice area to stay... it’s smack dab in the middle of a circle of subway stops but no where near a stop. So we took an uber (luckily had airport WiFi to get one).

Arrived and checked in but couldn’t go to the apt as they were still cleaning it. It’s weird this place is like condos but acts like a hotel... they took our bags up to the room, they checked us in, and gave us electric plastic card keys...

Anyway, since we couldn’t quite go up. We went to an Italian place for lunch that was open after 3... most places close at 3 so we were lucky to find one still open a block away!

It started to rain while at lunch but we still took a 30 min walk (felt like an hour due to rain) to go see Parque Ibirapuera. The park itself didn’t have an entrance near where we ended up so we had to walk around half the park and then north at least half the park. All this to go to one of the many museums in the park because of the rain. But sadly after all that walking didn’t get much out of it because ALL the museums were closed or closing in like 20 minutes. It was a little strange when most of them said on Google they were open until 8p... oh well. At least they still had cool architecture to look at.

So we got a taxi back since we were tired and annoyed and got to relax for about 2 hours before our dinner. Amanda had gotten a reservation for 8:30p at a nice sushi place her friend suggested since I had read in the app about Brazil earlier that there is actually a really large Japanese population here and the sushi is amazing!

In this case it was amazing. We got there and got cocktails. I got another pretty one with sake. And then the Omakase was like $50 usd for both of us so we did that. Then, since not quite full got four more pieces of nigiri (2 salmon and 2 pork belly, sadly no pics of those).

On our way back we stopped at a gelato place. I couldn’t resist ;) not 2 flavors Nutella and a raspberry cheesecake. They mixed nicely!

Now back home writing this and heading to bed. It was a long day even though we didn’t do much and tomorrow will be a long busy day!

[sylvinargentina]

Iguazu Falls - Argentina and Brazil

Amanda and I woke up early this morning (6:45a Amanda’s favorite) to get a jump start on the park since we had 2 more circuits to do. Had breakfast 7-7:45 and walked into the park from the hotel. Passing signs saying park open 8-6 leave hotel property at your own risk outside of those times, since it was a few min early they hadn’t removed the signs yet.

We did the upper loop first since we heard the first train to the second loop doesn’t leave until 8:45 from the station, thinking we’d catch the 2nd one (one train every 30 min).

The upper loop circuit is a one way loop and we were the first in with only one couple from the hotel a little ways behind us. Empty!!! The perks of staying in the park. On this route we were on top of the waterfalls we saw last night. And we saw a different animal - coatimundis (some kind of raccoon according to Google) - see picture.

Once we finished this route we headed to the train station for the next circuit. We were told we had to get a ticket before getting on the train. The ticket guy said the next train available was 10:10... more than an hour away... even though the next actual train was at 9:10 and there was a train every 30. The whole round trip was supposed to be an hour and a half including the walk to the falls and train both ways... that would be cutting it close to our 12:30 checkout and taxi. But what could we do, they at least said we could take any train back and they were every 15 min. So we took the 10:10 ticket. As the train arrived I saw a 5 person tour group who I knew was on the 9:40 train ask if there was room on the 9:10... so I rushed over with Amanda and asked if there were two more seats. We got on!!! We weren’t sitting together but we were on!

A nice slow little ride, we could have walked it too but it would have taken a lot longer. Because this was only the 2nd train of the day, the walk and falls had a small amount of people around us.

The Garganta Del Diablo (Devil’s throat) falls were incredible to see! Powerful and definitely sprayed us. As you can see with the splotches on the camera lense on my face in this picture. It was a lot of fun!

Once back to the train station we saw another ticket booth... knowing from before we asked and one guy said we needed a ticket... but the actual ticket guy said we didn’t. So we went to sit down on a bench on the train platform. A conductor came over for the train that just arrived and asked if we had tickets...ugh!!! When we said we were going to the middle train stop he also said we couldn’t take this train we had to take the next one anyway. We were very confused and I was getting a little frustrated. So I told Amanda to wait on the bench while I went back to the ticket boot. Still the ticket guy said I didn’t need a ticket. I insisted, instead he gave two to another couple going to the same place... then finally after insisting like 3 more times that we needed the same tickets he just gave the couple he finally gave me two tickets for the next train. Phew... but annoying!

Because Amanda was sitting on the platform I got through the ropes they had put up for the other passengers and sat with her. So we got on the train first, got seats together, and got back to our hotel about 25 min later.

We had about an hour+- before our Taxi. So Amanda chilled in the room and I hung out at the pool . Then we finished packing and our taxi arrived to take us to the Brazil side. Sadly, no boat trip because they were all sold out and timing didn’t work out well. But means I have something to do next time.

They have two control points along the boarder one in the Argentina side and one on the Brazil side. The Argentina side was just like a normal toll booth. The taxi driver handed him a piece of paper with our information she wrote from our documents. Then the Brazil side we had to get out and go into a building. No line so we were quickly helped and quickly on our way to the hotel in Brazil.

Once at our hotel in Brazil we got situated in our room and headed out to lunch at a buffet a block away. It wasn’t a memorable meal but it was 2p after a 7am breakfast and walking so I was hungry!

After we went to the bus stop to catch the bus (2 blocks from the hotel). But we weren’t sure how to get tickets and after 15 min the bus hadn’t shown. So we decided to try Uber, since the guy at the hotel desk suggested it. But neither of us could use the app... it kept giving us errors... more reasons not to use it. So we got a taxi. The guy spoke some English but more Spanish so we figured out communicating somehow. When he dropped us off at the entrance to the Brazil side of the park and he said he’d come back at a time we asked for (4:45p because we thought the park closed at 5p) and said we could pay after for round trip. VERY TRUSTING!  This gave us about an hour and a half (a little less) to do the 15+ min walk... or so I thought. 

Once we bought tickets the park has double-decker (open top) buses to take you into the park. This drive not only was longer than I expected but it also had a few stops before the stop we wanted. So 30 min later we were finally at the start of the walk. Then the walk was also definitely longer than 15 min... ended up being about 40 min with us walking fast... :P

Still the sights on this side of Devil’s Throat were incredible too. Definitely more water on this side and the walkway that went across the cliff top gave great views and rainbows! (see pictures below, rainbow is in the third picture with the elevator)

We caught the elevator up (mostly saved for those with disabilities, see pic) to save ourselves time - there was no line or we wouldn’t have asked. We caught a bus perfect timing and ended up being only 10 min late to meet the taxi.

Got back to the hotel and had about 2.5 hours before going to see a dinner show. So Amanda hung out in the room and I went to the small pool to cool off. It started to sprinkle but luckily I was under an umbrella and already wet from swimming. Got ready back at the room before heading down to the hotel lobby to meet a car to the show at 8p. Of course right before leaving our room Amanda heard it pouring rain/thunder/lightning out so we luckily grabbed our jackets/umbrellas. This show was something I thought someone we met earlier in the trip suggested but it meant had no idea what to expect! 

We arrived at a large hall with a lot of people and a lot of tables. People were clambering over buffet tables of food. It felt like a madhouse! For $84 for two of us we had a pretty good meal (good meat and pasta anyway) and an “interesting” show. It was, as Amanda put it, like somethings on fire and you can’t look away. Basically the show was showing 8 countries through dance... which as a concept is fun but it was definitely more about the costumes and flourish/flashy. Of the eight countries (seen in pic below) the music was picked based on country but not always played well and the dancing wasn’t always an original step vs just moving around and the costumes were definitely all over the top. I think the Tango (Argentina) part was the most interesting because they had 3 couples dispersed around the floor and dancing on a table, one couple was right next to us (picture). Overall, it definitely was a little over the top, but we had some laughs and at least had a meal.

Now back home and making sure we’re mostly packed as we head to Sao Paulo tomorrow... hopefully the forseen thunder storms won’t keep us from leaving...

[sylvinargentina]

Iguazu Falls Argentina

Today was our next travel day - this time to Iguazu Falls.

We checked out of our Airbnb around 10:30. Tried and failed to catch the right 33... we needed A but only Bs or Cs were coming... maybe due to holiday. Annoying bus system strikes again! So we luckily found a bank a block away got more cash and made our way to the airport by taxi.

Checked in, had lunch outside of security and then went to our gate. Easy enough 1.5 hour trip. When arriving in Iguazu... I didn’t think our flight had that many people but oh my did we have a lot of bags!!! They just kept coming! Amanda, who had to wait last time for her bag, got hers first and I was the one that waited this time. Right in the middle there was a short power outage at the airport... small airport. So small I could see the plane and when they placed my bag on the cart out the airport baggage claim windows! Lol

There was a driver outside to take us to our hotel. We decided to splurge a little on this hotel... so the driver had cold towels and water bottles waiting for us in the car. The car itself though was nothing fancy though. We got to the park in about 15 min and had to get out to pay for our park pass. Then 5 min later we were at our hotel (it’s one of only two hotels IN the park on the Argentina side). We got into the lobby and the view was incredible... this picture is from our room and doesn’t do it justice.

It was 4pm and the park closes at 6 (last entrance at 5pm). So we hurried to our rooms quickly changed and went to the first hike Circuito Inferior (lower circuit). The guide said 2 hours... ended up being an hour since it was only 1400 meters and because it was close to closing so very few people were there! I did somehow completely misread the map (doesn’t happen often) trying to find the trail head, But we didn’t get far before we realized our mistake and found it. The walk and the falls were breathtaking + monkeys. :P See pictures. You just shouldn’t pet the monkeys according to signs. 

We got back around 5:20 so we couldn’t go do another walk. So instead we partook in the amazing pool for about an hour before the nats started coming out. They won’t bite they’re just annoying!!

Back to the room once we got fed up with the nats, showered and changed for dinner. Amazing buffet at which I had too much food...

Now back again in the room for an early night since we want to wake up at 6:30a tomorrow to get packed and food and off to the next hike at 8am when the park first opens.

[sylvinargentina]

Rain and Carnival

Today was an interesting day.

It started thunder and lighting before we went to bed last night and was pouring this morning. So Amanda decided to sleep/stay in.

I get a little stir crazy so I continued with the plan and went to the Congresso where the walking tour we missed the first day starts. I got there a little early so grabbed breakfast at a place called Monday - on Monday (sadly not on Monday st) 😅 also luckily at this point it wasn’t raining just grey sky.

As 11 came closer a few more tourists arrived but the guide wasn’t there which was a little strange... but also considering today was a holiday (Carnival - we only found out yesterday) and it was raining, I figured I’d wait. 11:15 came around and still no guide. One couple left and I was finishing a convo with the other couple, planning to go back to the Airbnb, when the guide showed up! Luckily the other couple that left hadn’t gotten far so we grabbed them and started the tour.

This tour goes from Congresso down Avenida de Mayo to the Casa Rosada (pink house). Then back up to the Obelisko. (It’s a V if you look at a map).

We learned a lot but of course right as we started the tour it started to pour. I was fine because I had my raincoat and Amanda’s umbrella, but one girl found out quickly she only had a windbreaker not a raincoat... luckily someone came by selling umbrellas right then.

Things we learned on the tour:

- A local is called a Porteño

- There are 17 million people in BA and surrounding areas but only 3 million live in the city but any given business day there are about 10 million in the city working.

- Most important law - “Evita’s Law” giving the right for women to vote in 1951

- 30k people disappeared/died during the dictatorship some children had parents killed and were given new papers and families... “mothers or grandmothers of plaza de mayo” try and help find original homes/families

- BA has lots of demonstrations, sometimes every day a week! One large one, which made the city put up most of the fencing around all the monuments, was in 2001 when the government needed money so took everyone’s money from their bank accounts (which are in US dollars) and put it back in as pesos (eg. Took $10 and replaced with $10 pesos...) really really bad exchange rate!!!! So people were pissed but most didn’t get their money back... there goes most people’s college funds and now people don’t trust the banks.

- There’s a building on Avenida de mayo that was built to house Dante Alegueri’s coffin when he died (didn’t happen) so it was built with Dante’s inferno in mind. 100 meters tall because 100 stories. 22 floors because 22 chapters, etc.

- we learned how to order coffee in front of Cafe Tortoni (very touristy, huge line out the front)

- A theory of why the house is pink is that someone wanted to paint this huge building with waterproof paint but at the time it didn’t exist and they found if they mixed cow fat, blood and lime together (cow blood giving it the red color) would work.

- We learned a few local hand signs (similar to Italian signs)

- The changing of the guard happens at 1p (see pic) between Casa Rosada and the cathedral.

After the tour I grabbed a few empanadas from a place suggested by the tour guide - Pizzaria Güerrín - and brought them back to Amanda and told her about the tour and all the info above.

We then too a nice little walk around Porto Madero, including seeing a really strange opulent hotel my mom suggested for its architecture.

We can back to the apartment for a little rest for my feet and went out about an hour later by bus to a cocktail speakeasy in Recoleta - Floreria Atlantico. Our bartender was great!! I had 4 very different but amazing drinks (pictured are my first and last) and Amanda had 2 of the same passion fruit and one desert cocktail. We also got two seafood dishes... we were a little hungry so I forgot a picture of those but they were great!

Next to us sat a group of 3 American girls 2 from NY and one Seattle. I didn’t really like their vibe... why come to an artisanal cocktail speakeasy and order a tequila sunrise, Rosè and a Paloma........... 🤦‍♀️

On the other side of us luckily sat two really nice girls from the UK who we got along with much better. Then when the 3 girls left they were replaced with two guys from middle of the US - Ohio. We ended up going to check out Carnival with these two guys.

Carnival was definitely not what I expected... first of all, like most Americans I thought it was only in Rio and maybe in general Brazil. Now I know most South American countries have it... it’s their Mardi Gra or St Patricks day. Then instead of a parade it turned out to be a street full of people spraying fake snow at each other... in my face... my mouth... my eyes... my ears (plugged them enough to not be able to hear... better than ear plugs!!! NOT).

After about 20 min of this the festivities died down, the announcer said more in 25 min but most people were leaving (they had young kids and it was already 11:30p). So we parted ways and headed home to shower.

Long day but a lot of fun!

[sylvinargentina]

Sunday Relaxation and Tango!

Today was a chill day. We woke up later than usual due to sleeping late after the game.

We took the B metro line to near our destination for the day - the Palermo neighborhood and park.

It was about a 20 min walk to the place we wanted to grab lunch... but sadly turns out you definitely need a reservation. So we walked a few more blocks and grabbed an alright burger at “Brandon Marlow”... a very American burger joint.

We then started our walk through the neighborhood to the large park. We saw a ton of street art all over the buildings. Some beautiful and some political (see Trump Joker silencing liberty).

For the park, it was both a good day and bad day to go. It being Sunday the park was filled with families and people which was fun to see. On the other hand it was packed which meant many of the things we wanted to do - like the planetarium - were sold out (Agotado). Even the Japanese garden we went to was packed not the normal tranquil garden I’m used to but instead little kids running around musical/dance shows every few hours.

We walked back towards town for an afternoon aperativo - aperol spritz and some WiFi.

We wanted to go to another parilla for dinner but didn’t know we needed a reservation. So we go in line (just like in SF) about 20 min before it opened. They gave us free Champaign while we waited and we were easily able to get one of the first tables outside (no wait). Guess they didn’t have many reservations. It was really good, and only $30 bucks per person for a really nice piece of steak, mashed potatoes and grilled zucchini and two glasses of wine.

After, we made our way to the tango dance class that Amanda found for us ($250 pesos per person at La Veruta Tango Club). We met a girl from Huston (originally from Dubai) and a couple from Italy/France.

Once we got in the place had just finished a milonga class so people were free dancing. Decided to jump right in and found someone to dance with. It was perfect and he knew just enough to lead me in the basic step and a few other moves.

Then the tango class started. They first started with the 4 sets of teachers dancing to show us what we never would be able to accomplish. 😝 Then they split everyone into 4 levels... obviously we were “principales” or basic (in more ways than one).

It was good to learn the basic step but I definitely got bored and my arms, due to keeping them in the frame, were tired. I tried to free dance with someone better than me but they switched into the next class (“Rock” or I think west coast swing?). We tried a few quick things in that dance but my mind had a hard time switching from Latin to Swing.

We left with the couple from Italy/France and joined them at a bar as they are (we were too full!)

Then got home to sleep around midnight. Tomorrow is some random things we haven’t done yet. Like that 11a walking tour of the civic areas.

[sylvinargentina]

Color Frenzy, Friends and Football!

Today was a little more of a chill day now that we’ve gotten more of a bare bones plan of which neighborhoods to see when.

I woke up earlier than Amanda so I got a chance to do my laundry.

We then left around 11 to catch a bus. The bus system hates me (Amanda gets it more). Google told us to take 33 A or B line to the La Boca neighborhood and I was told by 3 buses that passed that no 33 went there. Finally found 2 other lines that would get us there and got one after about 20 min.

Once in La Boca it was colorful and touristy! Definitely think Pier 39 but people bombarding/grabbing at you asking you to take photos with them or eat at their restaurant! We were told not to go too far off the beaten path... we would hav probably been fine but didn’t risk it. So instead of walking through some of the parks on the map we got a taxi to our next destination.

Mercado San Telmo (or San Telmo market for those who don’t speak Spanish 😜). Very similar to the Santiago and Italy indoor markets. This place had much more food and antiques/flea market things. We got 2 empanadas, a cebolla y queso (cheese & onion) and a humita (cheese, onion and corn). There’s also a square about a block away which had a little outdoor market, unsure if it was because it was Saturday or all the time. We also stopped at a church a block away which had a nice facade but plain inside (so no pics of inside).

After we walked the few blocks to the subway - our first ride on the subway in this city - I got turned around a little once down in the tunnels and Amanda had to remind me it was a subway created by Britain and so everything is the wrong side... duh!

We took the C line to Lavalle which is near the obelisk from the day before. We were meeting a family friend - Beatriz and her husband - at Cafe Parisian for lunch before they went to the opera at Teatro Colon. We had such a nice hour lunch that I forgot to take a picture!!!

Amanda and I took a taxi to Recoleta Cemetery because yesterday’s tour guide said there was a free tour in English at 11a and 3p every day. Turns out tour is only in Spanish!!! We started the tour and the tour guide mentioned an app both English and Spanish that gives info about certain graves. We tried to do the tour but my translation was horrible so we ended up leaving the tour and just walking around with the app. We made it to all the stops on the map including Evita’s grave. Which honestly... wasn’t the most interesting looking or interesting story. One grave had a statue of a woman at the door because she was accidentally buried alive (and not recovered). And I think some of the larger more grandiose ones were my favorite since these are pretty expensive. One plot is as expensive as a Buenos Aires apt. Unsure how many bedrooms and how much that would be in SF... maybe I should just live there compared to SF rent... jk

We were going to try and grab a drink at a place nearby the tour guide had suggested yesterday but it was closed. So we just took a bus straight back to the apt. I took a nap as it is going to be a late night tonight.

We went to a football (American soccer) game! I have been told it’s an experience! So I’m not a sports fan necessarily but definitely there for the experience.

Got on the bus over, and planned to walk to the stadium since it was not on a specific bus line and Beatriz told us they close off the streets nearby. We planned to grab dinner on the way and put more money on our bus card. Quick story about the card, we met people at Bodega Lagarde from the UK and they were going to Santiago and had already been to BA. So we switched bus cards. We gave them our Santiago cards and we got their BA “sube” card which can be used for 2-3 people, just have to tag it multiple times.

So we arrived by bus and realized it was a 30 min walk... so we only had time to quickly grab a burger at a local place and tried to find a cab... couldn’t find a cab so started walking. Found a cab and he got us as close as he could. There were a lot of people and there was a barricade about 4 blocks away from the stadium that they were holding people back. Then they let us all through... there were a ton of police in crowd riot gear... and after almost another block walk there was another ticket check and another block then a pat down then a bag check then more police and we finally got to the stadium and were told we were in the wrong section/entrance. And instead of just walking around the outside of the stadium (the easy way) or even letting us in to walk around... they had us walk all the way out and four long blocks back the way the taxi came.

On the way out and around we met a young couple. They knew some English and me some Spanish. So I figured out they were going to our section. But then the girl had to go to the bathroom. So we split up and kept going. As we made our way into the new area gates we met a family of four (2 young kids) I asked the guy if we were in the right place. And he was so nice he knew he’d be let in early because of his kids. So we got through with him right before they let the flood of people through.

We had to go through the same amount of checks as before through at least 4 blocks walk back towards the stadium. We finally got to the stadium. Scanned our ticket which was a plastic card not paper. And found 2 seats in the lower (Baja) section.

It was a lot of fun! Loud cheering, rowdiness and lots of energy. River Plate, the local team we were cheering for, won 4 to 2. We left when the score was 3 to 1 (25 min into the 45 min second half) but the taxi was playing the game on the radio so heard the rest. Then he played disco the rest of the way home.

Great day!

[sylvinargentina]

First Day in BA (Buenos Aires)

Amanda and I figured out our plan last night.

So she said if I woke up earlier than 10 I should go out if I wanted to. So I walked the Porto madero waterfront this morning for about an hour.

Once Amanda was awake we walked to the bus stop a few blocks away to get to the 11a free walking tour. The bus never showed. So we changed our plan. We got on a bus going to the bookstore. A little farther away. But the bus we took must not have been the A line of that bus (we both never saw any delineation of that kind). So we stopped as close as we could to where we wanted to go and walked. (P.S. we walked so much today I got over 25,000 steps)

We saw some interesting things on the way, nothing we knew to be tourist sights, stopped for lunch at a western themed Parilla (place known for its cuts of beef and other meats) and went to the beautiful bookstore (in an old theater) called El Ateneo after.

We had some time to kill before the other free BA walking tour in Ricoletta at 3:30. So we slowly made our way that direction and stopped at a beautiful Hayatt that was suggested by a family friend and a tower on the tourist map. Sadly, what I didn’t know is it was almost the exact route of the walking tour but backwards. Still a lot of fun and we met friends.

We learned more of the history on the walking tour. We saw palaces (the biggest with 140 rooms finished after the owner died). Some had been knocked down and turned into modern buildings. Most of them were European or French style and materials because Argentina was the one supplying food for Europe in WW1 and the boats couldn’t come back empty so they brought building materials.

We learned about the ports, like how Porto madero isn’t actually the port because it failed (unclear exactly how) so the newer one is closer to the airport. And how Soy beans are actually their biggest export because Asia will buy it.

We learned that the tower we had seen earlier and the subway were gifts from Britain but all the names changed when they lost the 10 day war to them over the islands. But they have now had the longest democracy in the country after the war; 35 years.

I also found out Argentina has a large Jewish population, large enough to have the only other Kosher McDonald’s outside of Israel. Sadly this came with history about two bombings, one being of the embassy we saw which now has a memorial in its place.

We ended the tour in the park outside Ricoletta cemetery and ended up banding together with 2 Brits and an Australian from our tour.

We had a nice evening going back to the bookstore for them, trying to find a Tango place someone had suggested (turns out it’s been closed for a year + for restoration). Walked through the area seeing many more sights like the Obelisk, the Colon theater and some government buildings as we headed towards a dinner place the tour guide suggested. Of course nothing opens until at least 8 and it was 7 (since tango hadn’t happened). So we found a bar a block away (pic) then had dinner.

We paid and went our separate ways since it has been a long day. But plan to see at least two of the three again since they’re still here for a few more days. One guy leaves in the morning.

[sylvinargentina]

Last Day In Mendoza

We had a little of a later start this morning since checkout was 10:30a. So checked out and got in a taxi around 10:45. Same guy that drove us to and from the spa, he gave us his card and ended up being a great on call taxi driver. We just say when we will meet him and he’s there!

On our way to the first winery we had to make a pit stop at the first winery we went to (CarinaE) 3 days ago, because I left my hat there. Then made our way to Domain Saint Diego. A cute little family owned winery (father 2 sons and daughter) that only makes 30,000 bottles or less a year (red blends and sparkling wine). The daughter toured us around the winery and gave us the tasting.

She taught us that each type of grape vine varietal has different shaped leaves. Malbec 3 divots (pic), cab sav and franc 5 but the way to tell the difference there is Cab sav’s divots are not as deep. She also noted the lavender was to help keep the ants away from the vines.

My two favorite parts: their neighbor painted some of the wine vats to “add color” and to best utilize the space since they didn’t use their concrete vats for fermenting anymore they used them for bottle storage... with not better way to get into them then going head first into the tiny hole in the front (see pic of guys legs sticking out).

Then, due to my idiocy, since a 17 min walk sounded easy enough, in mid-day heat with little shade walked 25 min up the road to a small little lunch place. At least the view of the mountains on the way was nice. This place had no tables, just a shack and bench out front. The food was quick and cheap (total $5 for both Amanda and I).

The same driver met us on the exact corner we asked for next to the lunch place at 2pm and drove us to our second, and last, winery - Tempus Alba. We had 2 options that would let us taste 3 wines each so we tried 6 of their 7 available wines ($5 total!)

The taxi driver was outside waiting for us around 3 like we asked and we headed back to the hotel, grabbed our bags and headed with him to the airport.

We got to the airport 2 hours before the flight since we weren’t sure about traffic, bag check, security etc. Turns out all of the padding in time we added wasn’t needed. No lines easy to get through. Luckily Amanda has a preferred sky miles thing and she had checked that there was a lounge so we sat in the lounge with WiFi while we waited. This is where I’m waiting this.

We arrive around 8:30/9p in Buenos Aires (BA) and the plan is to take a metro bus since it goes direct to the neighborhood our Airbnb is at. Unless we are too tired or it’s too complicated. Tomorrow’s plan is to be BA tourists... but of exactly what we plan to plan tonight. :)

[sylvinargentina]

Wine Tours

Today was our 4 wineries with a driver. Got picked up at 9am and started at Achaval Ferrer. Then moved to Matervini (one of the owners went from the first to the second). Then for lunch to Casarena (owned by Americans). Lastly, ended up at a winery near our hotel, Alta Vista.

A few wine facts we have learned.

1) Of the 1,800 Argentinian wineries 1,200 are here (most owned by non-Argentinians). One winery said there were 3000 wineries in this valley. Hard to know who’s right.

2) The wrose bushes in the wineries usually found at the end of the rows are to tell earlier if there’s any sickness in the vines (e.g. a wine canary as Amanda put it!)

3) There are 3 nearby mountain ranges only one of which (the farthest west) is actually considered the Andes.

4) The word “Malbec” means bad taste in mouth in French, because it wasn’t very good in France. Here on the other hand it turns out to grow really well.

5) Of the 23 Provence’s in Argentina Mendoza is 1 and has 4 main areas which only 1 is desert and 3 are oasis

6) Oil and wine are the 2 most well known money makers. Tourism and agriculture are next.

We ended our evening getting over being drunk from the wine that’s between 14-16% alcohol content each...

Had a little meal and went to bed early.

[sylvinargentina]

Spa Day

Not much to write about.

Woke up around 9, taxi got us at 10 and arrived up at the spa around 10:30.

There was a little bit of a mistake in that I have wanted, asked for and thought we had reserved two 1 hour massages but turns out we didn’t. They didn’t have any more hour slots when we arrived but they had half hour slots. To make it up we didn’t have to pay the fee for our robes.

The spa was beautiful. There was a lot to do. A variety of pools ranging from cold (24c) to hot (36+c). There was mud to rub all over yourself and dry. Then there was the sauna and steam cave. It was not a room but an underground cave.

We had our massages at 1. Then all included large buffet lunch at 1:30.

Taxi took us home at 5:30. Took showers and then walked into town for atm cash and dinner around 6:45. Turns out restaurants don’t open until 8p around here. So we stopped for a drink (and some better WiFi) first.

[sylvinargentina]

Wine and Horses

Day one of Mendoza wineries!

Our hotel has ok WiFi so posts and/or photos might come a little later than usual. Photos for this will come later as they’re taking a long time to download!

After hotel breakfast we got a taxi to our first winery - CarinaE. Good wine, labels and name themed after a constellation only seen in the Southern Hemisphere. Small family owned winery by a Fench couple who loves astronomy and dogs.

Next we made our way to Bodega Lagarde for a tour and 7 course lunch and wine pairing. Omg best thing ever! (Also starting to write this while drunk on the wine). Did our 30 min tour - highlights: 1) their featured wine “Henry” needs to be opened at least an hour before serving. 2) their main “Champagne,” which can’t be called that since not in France, was out of stock already.

Then lunch... too good for a description other than pics below and we got drunk and enjoyed other travelers company. Sooooo glad we reserved that in advance (thanks parents for the heads up). It was a 7 course meal with 5 wines. Amanda and I started with the classic pour menu - but realized that one of us could get the more expensive wine menu and try everything. So she got an extra white pour at the beginning due to this change. Then the sommelier in the middle of the meal accidentally poured me a glass of the “Henry” instead of the classic menu wine (D.O.C) so I got an extra glass too. Then at the end a couple near by got more “Henry” and poured us more wine. So we were supposed to have 5 glasses plus tea and instead got 7 glasses plus tea. Pretty good bargain I’d say!

Came back to the hotel and got ready for horseback riding. Van came to get us at 6pm. We arrived at the ranch at 6:30 and had to wait 30 min to start the ride so we arrived “on time” for the sunset. It was Amanda, myself, 2 guys from Buenos Aires and 2 guides. It was fun and a wonderful view! (pics) When we came back the stars were shining (of course with different constellations) and they served us pork pieces, sausage and potatoes from the grill, bread and tomatoes. 

Arrived home at 10:30 definitely sore and ready for the full day at the Spa tomorrow!

[sylvinargentina]

Transition to Mendoza

Today was our first transition to a different city and it went really well! We woke up at 9 and packed. Arrived a few min before 10 when the funicular up the San Cristóbal Hill, saw the little chapel/shrine and large statue at the top. We also rode the cable car across the hill and back. All this took almost 2 hours at which point we had to rush back to our AirBnb to check out.

We got quick sandwiches from the local okmart - nothing was open at noon (everything opens 12:30/1p). Then we took the subway about 6 stops to the bus terminal. We also found our final empanada place for Chile so grabbed a few cheese ones to go.

Easily checked-in and found where the bus would be, however we were early so we had to wait. The bus left at 1:30 and was going over the Andes mountain range and the border and got us into Mendoza, according to the ticket at 9:30p. We were lucky and had a driver that safely but efficiently got us there at 7:30p! The ride was beautiful (see pics)! With the border crossing in the middle to breakup the monotonous sitting.

When arriving we found a taxi, and I thought - with my “wonderful spanish” I had asked whether we could use a credit card... 3 times!! They said yes so we got in the taxi with not Argentinian cash. On the way saw the sun setting behind the Andes (pic). Of course as we arrived at the hotel - the driver was like “no, I only take cash.” So we had to ask the hotel to give us 400 pesos in cash ($10) and I paid with my credit card. It worked out... but annoying!

Amanda and I asked our 20 questions about restaurants, banks and even laundry before heading to the room. We are the farthest from the front desk on the first floor and overlooking the pool (picture tomorrow in the daylight).

We had a nice walk to the town square and bank - I was an idiot and brought the wrong card from the hotel room (CC not debit) and so Amanda was the only one able to get cash. Then we walked part of the way back and found the restaurant the hotel front desk person suggested. It was good. But we weren’t expecting how many degrees cooler it is here at night than in Santiago... neither of us brought a jacket. So we ate quickly and headed back to the hotel.

Really looking forward to tomorrow! 2 wineries (one with a 5 course meal) and a sunset horseback ride.

[sylvinargentina]

First Day - First Stop!

Santiago, Chile

Didn’t know quite what to expect... more European or more Mexican style (comparing to what I currently know). I do believe it’s a mix of both. You can find architecture that’s modern, to French to Neo-classical. For a city with no distinct skyline it definitely still has a lot to see and do.

Before getting into that, first I arrived at the airport at 4am (not 3 as I originally thought). Thought limo/taxi would pick me up (with sign with my last name) but didn’t find them so took a taxi... cheaper in the long run. It was a 20 min ride, but we didn’t arrive in the right spot (we were a block off). Driver had to ask and we then spent almost 15-20 more min trying to circle around due to one way very traffic-y streets... as it turns out on Friday night 5am is still prime club/party time for young adults here.

Once in the AirBnb, accidentally woke up Amanda due to front door guy to the apartment calling. I had to take a quick shower because after 24+ hours of traveling and humid weather at 4:30a in Santiago... I definitely needed one.

Slept another 4-5 hours and woke around 9:30a. Amanda and I took our leisure time getting ready and left the house around 10:45a. Amanda had actually been here about a week before with another friend so knew all the places to go. So we did a little walking tour of our own in the morning. Through a few parks including Santa Lucia and stopping at a few sights. Around 12:30p we had lunch at a cute little Italian restaurant she had previously been too - pasta and empanadas a wonderfully carb filled lunch.

Next we made our way towards the Plaza de Armas where we would do a free walking tour at 3pm. However, we had some time to kill so we stopped in 3 places places. 1) The fish market: think Pikes Pace market but square or the square indoor Florence market but only fish. 2) La Piojera (a bar suggestion from my coworker), and had a terremotto - a drink with sweet fermented wine, fernet and some pineapple sorbet! 3) The museum of pre-columbian Chilean art. All amazing!

We did the free walking tour around the city from 3-6pm which gave a little more history/background to the city and some of the sites we already saw. After stopping at a snack place around 5:30 and having the Chilean famous drink the Pisco Sour (picture) we decided to part from the group and try and see Pablo Nerudo’s house - La Chascona - before it closed.

Sadly no pictures inside the house but it was a quick but interesting audio guided tour. Fun to see how he pulled the nautical theme he liked so much throughout this house as well as how much of a shrine it was to his 3rd and final wife. As we came out we met up with the tour again - Amanda knew they ended there. So we ended up going to get more Pisco Sours with another girl from Switzerland. We enjoyed our conversation and came back to the hotel to rest our literally aching feet. Tonight the plan is to go out to dinner and see the club scene for an hour or two. Then be in bed by 11p so we hopefully sleep well tonight before seeing a few more sights tomorrow AM and catching our bus to Mendoza at 1:30p.

[sylvinargentina]

Long day of travel!

Woke up at 2:30p PST and will arrive 3am Chile time (5 hours ahead of PST). Doesnt sound ideal but it’s going really smoothly considering!

The bad:

Got to the airport at 3:20a and security doesn’t open until 4:30a...

The good:

Got precheck through sf security somehow. Plus this airline (Avianca) has TVs and gives meals! I’m sleeping most of the time but have tried not to miss the meals.

The bad:

I’m currently writing this 2/3rds through still have to fly to Santiago from Lima (Peru) and I will arrive and hope to find a car waiting for me (Thanks Amanda for getting it for me!).

The good:

Have met some really nice people at different points in their travel and going to a variety of destinations. Also the exit row seat gave some nice leg room last flight (2nd flight).

Hoping nothing happens the rest of the trip (knock on wood). But if it does you’ll read about it tomorrow.

[sylvinargentina]

Night Before The Big Trip!

Honestly unsure how to feel! Definitely excited, but nervous and a little stressed... so many things to make sure to remember.

Last night I had those stress flight dreams where I forgot things, missed flights etc. Crossing my fingers those things don’t happen.

Definitely was lucky I remembered one time when we went to Mexico dad almost didn’t make it on the plane because his ticket didn’t match his passport... checked on mine and made the change 12 hours before the flight - if less than 6 they wouldn’t have been able to do anything! Sadly, it means I have to go much earlier to the airport than I wanted to (2:30a wake-up).

So in finalizing mode tonight. Finishing packing the last few things, making sure I have all the right documents and apps and such.

Looking forward to what awaits - minus the early wakeup and 24 hours of flying...