soulspeaksfashion

[soulspeaksfashion]

Robert Wun "Time" FW24 Couture

view collection here.

this review is being converted from a short form instagram story segment on my close friends. i’ll be adding more of my opinions tho ;)

the collections description: (this was taken from this vogue article) Robert Wun celebrated the 10-year anniversary of his label with a couture show called Time today. He said he wanted to reflect on “why I’ve been doing this for so long, why I still want to keep doing it, and for how long.” He used these questions as a starting point for a collection of one-of-a-kind extravagant showstoppers. “I asked myself why I do fashion, and what does time mean?“ Did he find an answer? “Yes, I did. The answer is to accept that one day everything ends—and that’s okay.”

my overall rating: 9.7/10

i watched this show months ago at this point and honestly the mere thought of it brings tears to my eyes. this show is gorgeous. the pieces are beautiful. like beautiful isn’t a strong enough word. i truly envy the people who were privileged enough to see this in person for the first time. you can watch the show here! i deffo recommend it. it’s actually sickening. the textures, the colors, the concepts, the weathering that comes with time. its all done sooo well. this is what i want in fashion. especially when it seems like everything has already been said and done, robert has a beautiful perspective.

(click keep reading for all images i included!)

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loved!!

im not even exaggerating. fireeee (its ice -keyboard spam-). i love the texture of this orange-red dress, the way the gold parts catch the light. the leaf motif is sooo perfect. cherry blossoms!! i actually really like the construction of this particular dress. the sheer pink. its almost symbolic! (it deffo is).

category: cunt. i love the veil/shawl/cape situation on the white look. not the hugest fan of the draped skirt but, it works here and i like the black silhouette at the top. i love velvet. i have nothing more to say. this colorful number. god the back of this is actually giving me peacock vibes. i love the gradient of the shoes/tights. very pretty.

show stopper. this is probably one of my favorite looks to ever walk a show. its so gracefully. like the physical manifestation of a deity, of the universe. it's sooo graceful. beautiful.

not my favorites (being very nitpicky)

i do enjoy green screen queen. ms. shigo. mother earth if you will. this section is just a wee bit boring. still very elegantly made. i'm pretty sure i understand the concepts. i just think they could've been a bit more hard hitting, the skeletal look especially. compared to prior looks, i'm not as wowed.

again, not too wowed. very basic pieces. nothing screaming couture here.

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moving into my thoughts while watching:

transcript of my story: “i absolutely hate to be that person [shakes head no] i’m gagged. first of all his mind. the creative director (rbert wun) whoever’s creating these designs, this is gorgeous. these dresses are gorgeous. gorgeous. why do i not see more of him on the red carpet? this is what we need.

even if i was exaggerating, who’s going to stop me!? like this is handmade {just based on my knowledge of how beading works, i could be wrong}. this beading, a machine couldn’t do that. i think that’s really what’s getting me, probably thousands of hours probably went into making this and its so beautiful, you can tell that someone really loves their craft. this is gorgeous. the pictures are not doing it justice. y’all need to go watch this for yourselves. beautiful."

venue: 2.6/5 the venue is pretty basic, though i did like that they used projectors/screens to emulate/display snow, fire, butterflies. that was a nice touch that really immersed me in the video. though i'm not too sure how it was in real life.

casting: 5/10 i think some models were better than others. but there was not a jarring difference in walks or anything.

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SUSTAINABILITY:

my sustainability rating is currently based on transparency and accessibility of currently available information: 1/5

there is no information about what the maison is doing to practice sustainability.

[soulspeaksfashion]

OFF WHITE SS25 “DUTY FREE” by IB KAMARA

view collection here.

collection description: “Emotion can be as powerful as a logo. The Spring Summer 2025 collection was triggered by a trip to Ghana, Virgil’s birthplace and somewhere he constantly referred to in his work. It incorporates references and emotions shared by Ib Kamara of what America, and New York in particular, represents in the collective African imagination: a utopia of opportunity. The name "DUTY FREE" embodies the connection between America and Africa, using sportswear as a cultural facilitator. Partnership with contemporary Ghanaian artist Nana Danso introduces new key symbols that encapsulate the season’s core themes. A mix of sharp lines, athletic inspirations and African futurism set an evident sense of tautness and functionality. Grounded in reality yet with a dash of magic, the collection oozes with the inclusive spirit of New York as a destination for dreamers.”

my overall rating: 4.5/10

i think this collection is interesting… but it didn’t necessarily wow me with anything it did. it was very underwhelming. i enjoyed the use of kente cloth, the ghana flag as a motif, the sandals (as ugly as they were, super real)… and some of the jeans! i actually want a pair. however, i feel like this collection is under developed? there’s so much going on but so little at the same time. the concept of african futurism could’ve been explored more in depth, but i find it to be watered down slightly. the kente cloth is only used in 4, maybe 5, separate looks, with 2 of those looks being the same pants (which are gorgeous!). i would’ve loved to see more of it, different applications of it, what is the future of kente cloth? how has athletic wear influenced fashion in ghana? how has it been incorporated into the cultural of the country? exploring those questions could’ve led to some unique and interesting answers. i think some better ideas could’ve come out of this collection if that was the case. also, i’m not african, i’m not the gatekeeper of ghanaian culture, BUT, it does feel very disheartening to see stars, artwork by nana dans, and beading slapped onto clothing and being sold to a western audience. it almost feels lazy?

(click keep reading for all images i included!)

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adored!

this section will almost exclusively include looks that i thought were styled down.

1) i love the silhouette of this look, i would love to see it in more vibrant colors but i think it's really cute. the top is so pretty. 2) i could scream. this looks like something i'd see someone i know wearing and i love that. i love the jeans, the sandals, the belt, the long sleeved jacket!?? everything ate 10/10.

1) it isn't too spectacular but i do love the wash on the denim. i'm a sucker for a well done denim. the diamond shape created by the stitching, it's just cute. also i love stacked jeans. 2) the color!!! the print. i love how the print gives the illusion of corset boning. probably unintentional but still very cute. this look is soo militant, elegant. i want to see someone style this. 3) this is giving me uncle vibes and i love that!

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it's fine

this section will almost exclusively feature looks that i only enjoyed elements of.

i don't think these looks are anything radical, but they do look interesting. these are the jeans i want!! i'd probably cut the flap things but chefs kiss! i love the way the come over the foot. also the male model is gorgeous!! his fit is not my fav, he's just soo pretty.

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i'm confused

this section will exclusively feature looks that should cease to exist/i don’t get.

i have nothing to say for any these looks individually, except: why?? i'm very confused as to how this makes any sense. i can semi understand the vision of some of these looks, but i still don't like them, or really get why?

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viewing thoughts:

this video is making it hard to watch ngl.. going to the website. also these waist pieces are getting long. i am kinda tired of everyone playing around with the concept of exaggerated hips and curvy silhouettes. its getting played out. over done. can we come up with a new way to showcase curves… like using bigger, curvy bodies?

i’m noticing an almost utilitarian concept throughout the collection, and quite frankly, thats the most visually "interesting" thing about it so far. i did briefly see some interesting looks on instagram but i haven't seen those yet. (completely diff collection, which sucks cus it looked infinitely cooler)

the styling for some of the mens outfits is interesting. very much giving african uncle with the sandals. like i deffo hate this, but who says our uncles cant be high fashun!? i appreciate the use of the ghana flag as a motif in the collection, i actually thing that’s really cute.

part of me likes this collection but it isn’t doing anything particularly special??? there are a few really stand out looks and then the rest are very boring? i hate to say that because i do understand that some of this collection is cultural and i deffo see that, but it’s done in such a blah way. like these long sleeved mini dresses with bracelets and what looks to be waist beads overtop… i’ve seen renditions of this in real life. and it almost feels like we’re just selling culture in the most palatable way possible. and the kente clothe is actually jarring on some of these models… it feels forced. i’d probably describe the collection that way too. because if we take away the blatant “african/ghanaian” elements… what are we left with? it’s very forced, very lazy.

nle choppa is here y’all i'm done.

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sustainability: 0/5

my sustainability rating is currently based on transparency and accessibility of currently available information

they don't have any links to sustainability on their website as far as i can tell, and that is not very cash money.

here are some sustainability reports:

https://directory.goodonyou.eco/brand/off-white

https://sustainability-directory.com/index/consumer-goods/apparel-fashion/off-white/

this particular link just says "they're trying", "thery're taking steps"... but it doesn't say what steps.

i believe in informing consumers and having complete transparency when it comes to sustainability. bare minimum is to link to some a page even if it doesn't provide information. idk if i'm happier that they aren't doing the whole performative "we're sustainable! look at this page!"... at least they aren't pretending.

[soulspeaksfashion]

ALAÏA WINTER SPRING by PIETER MULIER

view collection here.

collection description: “It evokes a sense of American sportswear, with its ease and practicality. A purity, an idea of freedom, of body and of spirit. Geometric shapes animate around the form: circles, squares, spirals of fabric wrapping the body, in double-face cashmere, fine knit, sculpted poplin, and silk taffeta. No zippers, no buttons—stripping away to a dynamic simplicity. Some pieces seem suspended, held in position by imperceptible internal structures, like magic tricks.” — from their website.

my overall rating: 2/10

i hate when furs can’t save a collection. there were some nicely thought out concepts in this collection, however those are over shadowed by how insanely unremarkable everything surrounding it is. and it’s so blatantly obvious that these pieces were made with a specific body type in mind. this isn’t fashion for anyone with a bigger body, let alone a bigger chest. so not only is it boring, it’s not inclusive. i saw so many comments saying “this is art” and praising this collection. this is NOT art. it’s a piece of fabric hanging from a chain. it’s a see through bandeau top that will only fit small/fake breasts. its a sheer hooded jumpsuit… it’s boring. but i do realize that i am not the intended audience for this so my criticism is not the most helpful or constructive.

(click keep reading for all images i included!) 

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these are pretty

this section will almost exclusively include looks that i thought were styled down

furs! i love furs. this white dress is probably the only look i thoroughly enjoyed. i liked the asymmetry of it. and the skirt is nice and bouncy. wish there were more looks like this.

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it’s fine

this section will almost exclusively feature looks that i only enjoyed elements of.

the use of spiral motifs in these pieces are nice.

here we have the same exact same outfit just in different colors (six...). i find this to be collection filler. i think that the opaque skirts are cute and the waistbands are a nice touch. the hooded coat is pretty basic, and its seems slightly inefficient because it doesn't close but it's rich ppl fashion. what do i know?

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sighing very heavily

this section will exclusively feature looks that should cease to exist/i don’t get.

i have whiplash looking at these looks. the pink doctor scrubs are my favorite if i look at it as a halloween costume. i just don't get how or why these walked the runway and were received well?

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viewing thoughts:

my initial thoughts while watching the runway… this is nothing special. it’s very minimal, which i suppose is the entire point, but i am not a big fan. i took a brief intermission to find some opinions of this collection. because i can’t be the only one underwhelmed by this. on one hand, yes starting off with well crafted basics is nice, but i think that it severely undermined the collection. those bandeau tops and skirts are pieces you can find literally anywhere. you could make them!! i am not a fan of the critic that “well you’re paying for the construction” as if that takes away from the fact that this is boring?

my main gripe isn’t even that it’s boring. a majority of the collection looks cheap and i honestly HATE with a passion, rich people cosplaying as poor. sincerely a poor person. the very first skirt is sheer!! in a way that irks me because it’s not sheer like “everything is on display” but it’s not “completely opaque” either. it’s this weird in between that i’m not a fan of. and you see this fabric throughout the collection. 

as someone not very familiar with alaïa as a brand, this collection comes across as trying to stay up to date with trends (which is not inherently bad or wrong) but the house code may not necessarily go with the trends? mulier could’ve found a better way to do this. i don’t want to pay any amount of money for a sheer crop top when i can thrift one?? and i’m saying this as someone who is not only poor, but also has natural big boobs. these shirts would provide me absolutely no support. why would i buy this?

the spiral/asymmetric elements are cool. and i’m usually very picky about asymmetry.

but as we get into the harem pants, i can’t help but view this as the repacking of eastern fashion? i don’t know that is just a thought.

i’m very annoyed with every brand doing sheer clothing. it’s subversive when subversive brands do it, not if everyone is doing it. this doesn’t go against any grain, in any way. i went and briefly looked at their ws22 and sf22 collections, and the summer collection looked pretty nice for the most part but the winter spring… confused me. there are very beautiful pieces scattered in with pieces that look like actual fast fashion. i’m not too sure what this brand does, what makes it different from other fashion houses, say jacquemus. what makes them stand apart? maybe that’s a question i need to look into.

i’m seeing reoccurring motifs from the collections i mentioned above but it’s somehow done worse!!?

i was adding the photos, and after having seen somewhere that alaïa is supposed to embody/embrace timeless femininity, i realized: this collection is a mans perspective of femininity. this is a man selling the idea of what is feminine to women. and i hate it. because it’s so devoid of any understanding of how women’s bodies actually work. see the pink dress that is one slight breeze away from flashing someone.

venue: 2.5/5 it's whatever, the spiral aspect is cute. very sterile though.

casting: 2/10 the new collina strada show has shown me that brands can do inclusivity a LOT better.

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sustainability: 0/5

my sustainability rating is currently based on transparency and accessibility of currently available information

much like other brands i’ve recently review, there is no information in the brands website about sustainability, and they have a poor rating on good for you. here is a report by sustainability directory which gives them a score of 0.8 as of 08/07/24 (not sure if that means july or august lol).

[soulspeaksfashion]

SANDY LIANG SS25 by RACHEL BATASHVILI

view collection here.

collection description: n/a

my overall rating: 6/10

this collection has a sort of early 2000s, lates 90s charm to it. some pieces are kinda ugly but in a cute way? or rather a nostalgic way. some of the collection gives off corporate barbie vibes and i’m living for it! for my first introduction to the brand, i think it’s fairly nice. there was nothing absolutely revolting, and while it didn’t revolutionize anything, i love the blast to the past vibes it brings.

(click keep reading for all images i included!) 

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super 90s corporate girly

this section will almost exclusively include looks that i thought were styled down.

1) there's just something about this coat paired with tiny green shorts that really eats at my hear. even the shape of the jacket, it sorta puffs out in the front. i love that. 2) this green set!! i want i want i need! i know i doesn't do anything special but omg does it look good. and i think it fits the collection. would love to see the top cropped. 3) [this is look 20] i am a big fan of big top little bottom and this is perfection!!! it's so sleek, so minimal. idk i love.

1) barbie!! i love the length of this dress, the pattern/texture, i even love the boxy silhouette. it's so so pretty ( i am not living for the necklace but oh whale). 2) this is such a casual outfit. i'd buy both of these pieces (the jeans more than the shirt) but style them differently. 3) there were different versions of this but i honestly like this one. i love a simple black look, plus it fits really well. and the concept is executed sooo nicely.

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ugly nostalgia

this section will almost exclusively feature looks that i only enjoyed elements of.

these are giving disney channel prom. these are dresses i'd see in really old movies, and i love love love that the designer was able to capture the essence of a time period here. would i ever wear these? probably not. but i would love to see these in a tv show wardrobe

1) it's just wrinkled!! i love the color combo though! 2) the tailoring is not tailoring. this is look 19 for comparison.

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there was nothing ugly honestly!! so yay!

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viewing thoughts:

i am a minute and a half in, some of these pieces are very wrinkled and stiff, not sure if that is intentional but it does look a bit off. also the fitting, i’m not loving, but it’s not the worst thing i’ve seen. i saw a comment on youtube that said “NYC 90s corporate girly” and i agree. i lowkey love the styling of these pieces, but i’m not a fan of the shapes. very boxy, very straight, at least the bottoms are. and that isn’t what i prefer personally, but still cute. i honestly think this collection is really nice, it’s very girly, very chic, i think the tailoring is what’s holding it back the most. you can see what i’m talking about with looks 19 and 20. same look but the fits are very different. so i’d say, at least for the runway, there needs to be more fittings and whatnot. can't say i hate anything.

i kinda love hair and makeup, the accessories, it’s all very cute. the shoes could be different. but i digress. 

venue: 3/5 i love the nostalgia. usually such a basic venue wouldn’t get this high of a rating but! i think it adds to the overall theme.

casting: 6/10 i wish there was more diversity in the way the models looked.

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sustainability: 0/5

my sustainability rating is currently based on transparency and accessibility of currently available information

much like other brands i’ve recently review, there is no information in the brands website about sustainability, and they have a poor rating on good for you. here is a report by sustainability directory which gives them a score of 2 as of 13/07/24 (it’s deffo july!). 

[soulspeaksfashion]

COLLINA STRADA SS25 “Touch Grass”

view collection here.

collection description: “You know the meme, ‘touch grass?’ The world feels like a battlefield in so many ways right now and I think we can all reconnect and find that peaceful center by touching grass,” explained Creative Director Hillary Taymour – who tapped directly into the relatable and more relevant-than-ever-before meme to inform the label’s latest collection. // “The concept of ‘Mother Earth’ was a big inspiration,” continues Taymour, who envisioned a flowy, floral presentation of femininity across all aspects of the show.

from this hypebeast article

my overall rating: 7.4/10

this collection was very well thought out imo. it had a meaningful message and concept behind it, and i liked the diversity. i’d give them an A for inclusivity. it featured really gorgeous pieces that i’d love to wear/style. the layering incorporated into the pieces was really well executed, probably one of my favorite things about this collection. however, it didn’t really do anything i thought was particularly wowing.. (it takes a lot to wow me i think) the prints and textures were definitely very unique but as i mention later on, i don’t think i’m the target audience for this collection as a whole. so yeah :p

(click keep reading for all images i included!)

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LIVE LAUGH LOVED.

this section will almost exclusively include looks that i thought were styled down.

i am obsessed with the prints of these two pieces! the tube top, underneath that cross-body thing, has like bedazzling which is soo cute. as for the other dress, i love a high neckline. i've been anti-asymmetry for a while now, but i think it's executed beautifully here. also green lady, tres adorable. how could we hate?

i love patterns! i love texture! and these looks have it all. i really like the blue dress being high-low, very cute. second photo, its the pants, these pants are calling me. i need them. they're beautiful. you could very easily style these up or down, and i love that. the shirt is fine. and again these pants!! it's something about how they flow, the pattern, the colors. its really nice. the shirt is cool. i'd probably pair it with a big floofy skirt to give it some shape on the sides? idk. cool concept tho.

the lace pants. the layering, the texture. it's deffo not something i would wear (at least i don't think) but i could appreciate someone else wearing it. i would love to see this in a different color palette. that is all. the dress is giving wedding. maybe not the bride. but this is very wedding coded to me. i love the length and the sheer material (can y'all tell idk what things are??) its so pretty. but it's also casual, love.

this ensemble?? i have no idea what it is really but i think its gorgeous. the texture and colors go together real bad. this strapless dress is sexy. the length, the print, the neckline, gagged me. model ate.

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tres cute

this section will almost exclusively feature looks that i only enjoyed elements of.

1) i enjoy the print, otherwise eh imo. 2) hear me out, wide legged pinstriped jorts, without the lace?? would've been a cool concept. not a fan of the lace. the top is fine. 3) the length of the pants? i actually like this look but there's something off about it that i can't pinpoint.. it might be the pants. there's a lot happening there.

1) the sleeves unfortunately. i've been known to love a big long sleeve, but these are not my fav. 2) the shape of the dress is very ugly, hate to use that word but its my opinion. 3) i actually like this dress, but the ruffle placements are hideous. i hate that they don't overlap in a way that hides the gaps, or connect into a full loop around the body.

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it's a naur from me...

this section will exclusively feature looks that i do not like/understand

1) the fit is absolutely atrocious. and the fabric looks wrinkly.. idk could just be me. casual grandparent slay. 2) individually i think these pieces are nice. together? naur <3. 3) this look actually just makes me upset. there's another iteration of this with a pink bag and i like that one a lot more. this look feels unfinished. it needed some accessories at the very least.

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viewing thoughts:

(i like this name better, trying a slightly diff format as well)

this collection made me cry. not because of the pieces necessarily, but the casting choices are so human. the green lady really was the nail in the coffin. it feels real, like things a real person would choose to wear. i love loved the styling for the most part. the long hair touching the ground, i need to figure out how to make that my next hair style, immediately.  i loved the video editing, the opening with the model doing flips… it was very cute, very aesthetic.

the venue: 5/5

its green, its pretty, its unique (to me). i love seeing brands do more than just clothing, the viewing environment for the collection is very important as well.performance arttt. j’adore.

casting: 10/10 no complaints here what so ever.

now as far as the actual clothing.. it may not be my particular cup of tea (generally), though i do think the pieces are really pretty. the flounce/ruffle situations are gorgeous. i love the lace trim on some of the dresses. i do like the color palette quite a bit. the styling choices are serving a wee bit of cunt, like palatable cunt. one thing i did notice (i looked at their website as well) fitting… tailoring.. i know that not every brand is known for their tailoring but i’ve heard (don’t shoot the messenger) that at the very least, the items should fit very well. again i know this is a small brand, just something i noticed.

the twead? wool? i have no idea what these pieces are made of… but i may be a sucker. i love the texture of them. they look really soft and i like the contrasting dark colors. the pants! i love a good wide leg pant, so bad. i don’t know if i just have an unhealthy affinity towards dark clothes (i do) but the latter portion of the collection i enjoyed so much. like these black flowy dresses and the patterns. tres beau. 

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SUSTAINABILITY!!! 1.5/5

i’m fairly sure that this is the rating i gave robert wun (those reviews haven't come out). and it's only because there's not a lot of information about how they're being sustainable, where they're sourcing their materials from, or anything tbh. i don't doubt that they're being sustainable. i just wish there was more details given. i truly believe in consumers having the right to know what they’re purchasing, how it’s being made, why it's priced a certain amount, how much of that is associated with the brand name. i think consumers should be aware and given a choice in whether they participate in a companies sustainability, or lack there of. i'm all for informed decision making. i think the information should be very easily accessible, and informative. but i found on collina’s website that it doesn't really link to anything so there's no way to actually prove what they're saying, it sort of just goes into "shop this", "shop our stock", and i'm not a fan of that.

they do have a partnership with ‘the or’ foundation, which is based in accra, ghana. again, there's not really much proving that what they're saying is true. i don't doubt that what they're saying is true, there’s just no evidence.

i will continue to reference diesel when it comes to this topic because i strongly believe that the way that they go about sustainability and being open with their sustainable practices is and should be industry standard. i should know who certified you. i should know the methods that you're using to dye fabrics, how we’re handling waste management, the closed end cycle of the clothing produced. (so far, i have yet to find a brand with as much info available, so they’re my go-to as of now).

that is all friends :)

[soulspeaksfashion]

LOUIS VUITTON WOMEN'S FW24

view collection here.

the collections description: "Evoking a sense of nostalgia through his signature style codes, Nicolas Ghesquière weaves a new story with his latest collection, affirming the bold allure of the contemporary feminine silhouette." // "An ode to a decade of audacious creations, the trailblazing collection by Nicolas Ghesquière presents a nuanced aesthetic through a combination of graphic motifs, lustrous embroidery, and avant-garde accessories and handbags — inspired by the Maison’s emblems."

my overall rating: 2.5/10

this collection was extremely disappointing. sue meeee! i think it's ugly. uglier than the schiaperelli collection. i think the pieces themselves are not very flattering on the models, like it could entirely be a issue with the way the clothes were styled, idk. i think it's very sporty? but at the same time trying to be elegant and feminine? and nostaligic? i think missed the mark on almost all of that.. it just feels like it's trying to do too many things at once, while not necessarily excelling at any of them. (i can't say for the nostalgia tho). i initially gave it a rating of 2, but that felt harsh. the collection is boring at best, and ugly at worst. though, i will always appreciate the technology developed to create these garment.

(click keep reading for all images i included!)

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absolutely adored

these first two looks are probably the only things i genuinely like the look of. that embroidered? jacket looks sooo good. (the others as well but this one was styled perfectly) it's giving me that old school "this is the future" vibes because of the silhouette and the lines.

these furs are absolutely gorgeous, still couldn't save the collection :(

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interesting concept/not bad

i love these fluffy gloves, however the jumpsuit is giving linebacker... and the black dress kinda only looks nicer because of the neckline. the coat is cute, wish i could say the same about the rest of the outfit..

i think the dress could be very pretty if styled differently. i'd love to see it on a red carpet, because it really is pretty. the jackets.. i think that they're sequined to look like feathers, the silver one is nice. giving that same spacey-future vibe. the gold/brown one is okay, but not my fave.

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dare i say, hideous

maybe i just don't understand... but i still think it's unappealing to my eyeballs.

this entire gold section should be burned along with the weird mesh sequins dresses.

this is louis vuitton... sigh.

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moving into my thoughts while watching:

i couldn't finish watching this on 2x speed so i just went to the website. i sincerely don't understand what the concept for this collection was? it feels incredibly NOT cohesive, like there wasn't a single coherent idea here. // i did enjoy the venue, i thought it was pretty. venue: 3.5/5 // casting: 3/10. idk who the hell felix is, what i gathered from youtube comments is that they're an idol. i think the brand relied so much on that persons position/fame to sell the collection, because i only see comments about felix being an ambassador and fans gushing over their participation. nothing about the actual collection. and honestly that is really disheartening to see, because LV seems to be garnering support in a slightly unethical way. the fans don't care about the fashion, rather a singular person walking the runway.

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SUSTAINABILITY:

my sustainability rating is currently based on transparency and accessibility of currently available information: 3.9/5 | i think that louis vuitton does really well at being transparent with their sustainability, the information was super easy to find and very concise. they have really well intentioned and reasonable goals set, like getting rid of single use plastics by 2025. i think they should continue to focus on their wool and polyester sourcing, but other than that it seems fine. i find it isn't as detailed as the diesel website. their commitment to reducing their carbon footprint and finding more efficient/renewable energy sort of makes up for that imo.

screenshot from the sourcing responsibly page.

i would also advise reading their page: acting on climate change. it was very insightful.

right to left: "The Marsaz workshop (France) benefits from natural insulation through a green roof and heat pumps, earning it the HQETM label in 2011)." | "In the Beaulieu workshop (France), natural sources of light were optimised throughout the building, earning the site a "BREEAM® "Very Good" certification in 2019." | "The EOLE warehouse (France) employs a system where wastewater is biologically purified through planted filtering basins of purifying aquatic plants, while rainwater is collected for landscaping irrigation."

here's their 2023 environmental performance report, which compared to the OTB one isn't nearly as detailed. there was an attempt made... and while that has been acknowledged, they could do way better.

[soulspeaksfashion]

DIESEL FW24

view collection here.

this review is being converted from a short form instagram story segment on my close friends. i’ll be adding more of my opinions tho ;)

the collections description: "Diesel pillars - denim, pop, utility and artisanal - are reinterpreted in a more sophisticated way. Devoré jersey is burnt, denim is coated and then cracked. Floral dresses and top reveal the layer below while the thick knits are matted to create extreme shapes. The faux fur is covered with a layer of mesh and tufting is repeated throughout the collection. Screenshots taken from the Diesel livestream are printed on jersey. Trompe l'oeil prints have been blown out by a super-strong spotlight. There are new bags - Scrunched D and Trash D - and seasonal interpretations of Play, 1DR and Charm-D. The new sunglasses have built-in lenses and distressed finishes. The new D-sruptor watch is the third chapter of the Metamorph line."

i suggest watching the show on the diesel website (skip to 22:00 mins) or on over on youtube, i think it's worth the watch.

my overall rating: 9.1/10

i found this collection to be very slutty, very trashy (affectionate). i loved nearly everything about it. the colors, the furs, the mesh. i think it's very edgy and cool! something i absolutely love to see. the textures and distressing on some of the garments is sooo well done. it's gaudy and borderline ugly, it's fun!! i was reading that the CD at diesel's goal is to promote individuality and i think this is such a great way to do that. fashion is literally my favorite form of self expression. so many of these pieces i would like to own, they look gorgeous. also the styling was so well done shoutout to the stylist!!!

(click keep reading for all images i included!)

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looks i absolutely loved!

i think this is the perfect time to share that i am OBSESSED with leopard/cheetah/jaguar prints!! like actually please dont put it on anything because i can't not exhibit non-bias. and furs! i love fur coats so badly. so these i just can't. i'm drooling over them! aside from that, i think that these looks are so nicely done, the detailing on the jackets is insane. the paneling on the skirt! sickening.

again, animal prints!! first dress! i love the mixture of the floral print, it's so pretty. i love the sleeves and the neckline. the necklace (i'm assuming this is a necklace) is so cunt brroooo. second dress! the texture looks so nice. it looks like a mixture of a leopard/cheetah/jaguar print and denim snakeskin, all while being fluffy? a mind ate here. that all denim suit!! gagged me. its so nicely paneled to include different washes.

i think these models look cartoony (affectionate) in the absolute best way possible. i love cartoony fashion (i loved the astro boy boots sue me!). there's something about these looks that feels like it should only be possible in animation. the colors, the textures, the paneling. i fully appreciate the technology that went into turning this from a sketch to an actual wearable product!! i think that blue dress/coat should've finished the show, but i digress.

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looks that were cute :)

these are pretty! look at them!

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looks i didn't like :(

the neckline is ugly. also it's just a tracksuit/jumpsuit..? not feeling it. i know we need coats cus it's a FW collection but these coats are not my cup of tea it's the texture of the grey one (though i do like the sweater material incorporated) and the feathering on the green pants.

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moving into my thoughts while watching:

i honestly have nothing more to say than cunt, trashy, pussy was served on a diamond platter and i'm here for it entirely. super cute! obsessed. // casting: 7/10 // venue: 4/5, i appreciated the virtual aspect of it. made the runway look a lot cooler. and it's the first time it's been done according to their website!

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SUSTAINABILITY:

this is a section i want to continue for all brands, as well as pricing of items, though right now nothing is officially on sell so i can't look into materials/pricing. however, diesel has a section on their website dedicated to sustainability so we're gonna talk about it.

my sustainability rating is currently based on transparency and accessibility of currently available information: 4/5 bc i think diesel as a brand does a good job of telling you what you need to know to make informed decisions :)

here's the 2022 sustainability report diesel links to. this report isn't specific to the brand, but rather a larger group initiative to make fashion more sustainable.

a screenshot from the landing page of the report.

on the page to learn more about their strategy, there's a video but it honestly feels like a lot of buzzwords and percentages. their strategy is based on the following three pillars: "The New Fashion System, Protecting Our Planet and Brave Together." each of which we can learn more about so lets do that...

screenshots from the new fashion system page.

much of the website is written in this vague, buzzword driven jargon that doesn't really tell us how they're doing anything. i would appreciate if they were more transparent/informative. they do have a 2023 report but it's kinda buried under 'learn more' links which is annoying. you can find it here :) there are some pretty statistics i think. and it does give insight to what their doing which i love! it does genuinely seem like a good initiative that does meaningful work around the world, i just wish that this information was detailed better on their website.

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"On the environmental front, in 2023 we obtained an additional decrease in the Group’s emissions from direct operations and increased the share of energy procured from renewable sources in internal operations to 56% globally, rising to over 99% within Europe. In addition, purchases of low-impact materials by all Group brands rose to more than 17% in 2023, and we have already mapped out a strategic path for further growth in the coming years." — quote from Renzo Rosso in the documents opening

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graphic found on pages 18 & 19 of the 2023 report.

the OTB group also has a page dedicated to information about diesel. it doesn't go into much detail about their practices or what makes the brand sustainable, but it does give some background on the brands founding and goals to be the alternative, which i find very cool. i love subversive fashion. on the diesel website they have a section for sustainability which i won't praise because uhm i think being transparent with consumers should be the bare minimum/standard in the industry.

on diesel on website they link to four different pillars: Be the Alternative, Stand for the Planet, Celebrate Individuality, Promote Integrity.

on the 'be alternative' page you can find a link to their “PREFERRED MATERIALS MATRIX”. i personally find this interesting because i thought that the certifications listed could just be for show, but i did a little google search for responsible down standard, and uhm wow. i appreciate how thorough this is. if your interested in the responsible down standard click here :).

each page gives really good information that i think informed consumers should have access to, so *snaps* for that.

that it all, i hope this was informative!!

[soulspeaksfashion]

BOTTEGA VENETA WINTER 24

view collection here.

this review is being converted from a short form instagram story segment on my close friends. i’ll be adding more of my opinions tho ;)

the collections description: "Underscored by moods of introspection and resilience, Matthieu Blazy’s ongoing ideas of movement and going places continue with the energy of a rebirth. With Winter 24, we journey to Calabria, southern Italy, to barren landscapes where the earth is charred and dry, yet new flowers bloom. In this collection, there is an urgency of purpose in a reincarnation of what has been, together with what is to come: reshaped, recut and given a sense of essentialism in a new beginning."

my overall rating: 8/10

i think this hit the mark with what it was trying to achieve. i tend to view runway shows as "what ppl in the city of [insert brand’s] are wearing". i love that this collection looks like actual outfits real people would wear in the bottega universe. i could picture people wearing this in a city. it's so so nice. very sleek but not necessarily minimal, and i enjoy that (as a maximalist)

this is a short review/not super in depths with my thought on each piece.

(click keep reading for all images i included!)

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looks i LOVED (there are a lot)

i thought these looks were so gorgeous! the dresses are beautiful omg!! the leathers look so plush. the styling is so minimal but it works really well. that brown dress is just jaw dropping gosh.

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looks i liked (also a lot):

i love how on point the description for this collection is. deffo essentials i think.

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looks i hated (close to none!)

there's something about the texture of these that i just don't really like. it could be a lot better in person, but based on these photos i'm not a fan.

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moving into my thoughts while watching:

i’m writing this after my hatred of the rounded shoulder began!! however, when i first watched this show, i was astonished by them. they’re still incredibly gorgeous, i won’t deny that ever.    //    i love the leathers, especially the colors! the its very earthy! and neutral. i felt warm watching this. and the fringes were so pretty to me.    // the bags are sooo nice! so nice. i love how big they are!   //   i am currently not a fan of asymmetry but i think that this collection handled it sooo well. i love the big clips/knots/folds of fabric, it drapes beautifully without being an eyesore. // casting: 8/10 // venue: 2.7/5 (it's pretty but also nothing to ahh about)

[soulspeaksfashion]

SCHIAPERELLI WOMENS FW24-25

view collection here.

this review is being converted from a short form instagram story segment on my close friends. i’ll be adding more of my opinions tho ;)

the collections description: ESPRIT DE SCHIAP 

In the five years I’ve been here, we’ve created any number of infamous moments with our couture looks, combustions of fashion, celebrity, culture, and history. All the while, however, we’ve been developing couture’s sister: Our ready-to-wear, fully formed, hyper-exclusive collections for the daily lives of our clientele. These collections are complete wardrobes of everyday staples — but with the volume turned up to Schiaparelli settings. - Daniel Roseberry

(there is a longer piece, but i’m only using the first paragraph. feel free to read the entire thing here.)

my overall rating: 4.8/10

i love love LOVED the very beginning of this collection. the suits gave sophisticated, horse girl, realness. though, i think we quickly devolved into ‘what the fuck am i looking at?!’ i felt simultaneously over and underwhelmed by this collection. i’ve been tiptoeing into the fashion space for a while now, so i had always heard good things about the maison, and was therefore expecting so much more than what was given. the cohesive-vity is just not there for me. i was disappointed. 

(click keep reading for all images i included!)

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pieces that i absolutely loved:

from right to left (obvi): this is CUNT! the wash on the denim (look 5) is literal the most beautiful thing ever. i live for furs. gorgeous. this dress is velvet!! i love it. i love the deep cut neckline ugh! ate.

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pieces that gave me a regal vibe:

the trench coat look is so simplistic and minimal but i'm gagged! the skirt look is really pretty, would love to see it without the stable ready tights. still a nice look. the gold dress!! it's pretty basic so i would love to see it layered and styled by someone.

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pieces i have a love/hate relationship with:

the pants… why did we belt them like this?? the bustier is very cute but the styling… it’s not giving old money realness the way it needs to and should be. the croc textured jacket is gorgeous. its the boots.. i want this jacket. but the shoes are making it impossible for me to put this in the obsessed category. the skirt on the dress is so nice!!! the contrasting colors is not for meee.

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pieces that made me audibly SIGH:

there is no nicely pleated skirt with a high slit to save this dress. next, i feel like this dress could’ve all been the velvet fabric.. this was unnecessary. and lastly.. WHY?

i love furs so the fact that i hate this is very telling. i understand the concept. that does NOT make me like it. also the shoes? i want to puke. this asymmetry? i personally find it annoying.. that tube dress (look 26) is giving table cloth. nothing appealing about it.

i appreciate the work that went into developing this effect. i still dont like it.  this sheer, sparkly mini dress feels CHILDISH. the cape (look 33) isn't that bad but i hate it!

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moving into my thoughts:

while watching — as transcribed from my story:

“dare i say cunt? the fit of the pant is killing me, but the concept: gorgeous” — in reference to look 5.

“okay ngl the first few suits were gorgeous. idc for the rest of the collection. there’s some cute pieces but nothing i felt was stunning fr” 

“like… what the hell is this? plate was untouched.” -in reference to look 26

“AND THEN THERES THIS MONSTROSITY. like come on now.” — in reference to 33

“this is the new schiaperelli. it’s ugly and the models are walking so awkward (but i think its cus the runway layout is actually terrible)”

while scrolling the website: 

i think their online look book is actually sooo cute! i love that when you click on each look it give you a detailed description of what the models are wearing. i wish more maisons did this! super convenient. 

i live for the color palette. i know that this specific color palette (black/gold) is apart of the maisons house codes, but its very nicely well done. 

the keyhole motif (as mentioned in the excerpt given above) is poorly executed (imo) in/on most of the garments. but, it’s done fabulously in the small details on the suits, shoes, and accessories. beautiful. i should probably say how much i love the faux hair ties! they seriously give horse girl slay.

i think some of the styling choices are intriguing (derogatory) in the sense that i want to know who did this? why they did this? and what they were thinking while doing it?

casting: 4/10 it didn’t wow me

venue: 0/5 i am really big on venues/runways. this runway was very poorly designed. i hated that it felt crowded and that the models had no space! it made them walk awkwardly and i just ugh hated it.

[soulspeaksfashion]

DRIES VAN NOTEN WOMENS AW24-25

view collection here.

the collections descriptions:  “Composed layers, seemingly spontaneous and deliberated. Alternation between precious and pragmatic: creased, cushiony and fluffy.” // “She embraces the comfort of contradictions, her femininity at once tender and strong. Exudes an ineffable mystique: discreet yet audacious. Signals calm as well as boldness. Every duality brings us deeper into her desires.”

my overall rating: 7.7/10 

i did thoroughly enjoy this collection. i think it did exactly what it was supposed to. it’s very simplistic but also different from some other collections i’ve watched recently. i loved most of the styling decisions, the colors (they reminded me of the potterville collection's colors), the fabric choices (for the most part!).

(click keep reading for all images i included!)

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Pieces I LOVED

there’s just something cunty about the trench coat styling that i cant quite explain. it's so nice. sweater + dress combo looking so yummy.

the blue sweater is giving xmas tree tinsel and i LOVE it. eating down.

the back of the pink dress is so pretty!!! i think this is the only dress with this particular asymmetrical construction that i found flattering. also this jacket ATE down. it gave everything it needed to.

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Pieces that were nice

the purple jacket and sleeves, i'm not obsessed with, and i find the fit/silhouette to be a bit big. but otherwise, it's nice. that printed suit!! gorgeous. borderline obsessed with it.

this trench coat is a beautiful pastel neon yellow!! the color is really what sells it for me. and the orange puffer jacket is so nice. i love this sleeve length and the panelling. and the sheen on it is really pretty.

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Pieces i feel missed the mark (imo)

all of this is just a big NO! between styling decisions and the choices of fabric combos... i'm absolutely losing my mind.

this is where the xmas tinsel lost me entirely, on the suits i was like, "oh whatever... not super in love but it's not bad." this is bad. pants are gorgeous tho. moving on to this hideous skirt situation.. styling not giving. also, this model, i hate to say it, was the only one i thought walked badly (just in comparison to everyone else and the vibes, nothing against them!!). again, moving on, i'm personally really over these rounded shoulders so it's really nothing against DVN per say, the color combo however... i find it terrible. and the shoeeesss nooooo!

i think this coat is beautiful. it's really the lower half that's KILLING me. the shoes... and jorts... my body had a visceral reaction to seeing this.

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moving into my thoughts while watching:

off rip, the shoes in this collection are BEAUTIFUL. they’re really sleek and edgy which, ugh, i love. deffo would love to own a pair of these!!!

also the giant fluffy, pillow bags!! ahh!! they kinda remind me of the bottega veneta w24 ones, i might be mixing them up with another brand tho. but i love these very oversized bags. even if they arent necessarily convenient to wear.

so far loving the contrasting fabrics and the styling of the pieces. the color palette is also gorgeous. very much giving european baddie socialite! the fit and construction omg im going to combust. it’s so nicely made, the silhouette’s are genuinely to die for.

THERES FURS OMG IM GOING TO PUKE. the first pink fur i was okay wont freak out tyfkhrgkysfgrk BUT this beige/sand colored one is so pretty, i’d giving every organ in my body for a collection of beautiful furs.

saw the first piece that i didn’t like and it was just the draping/bundling of the fabric. not pleasing to my eyes. however, the fabric choices of this collection, from what i’m seeing so far, are really nice. i’m gonna go look at individual pieces and look at the material composition and stuff. 

found a love hate piece ahhh, feeling conflicted bc it’s hideous and there’s deffo no fixing it, but i also like elements of it?? on another note, i really enjoy the styling of a lot of these pieces. it’s very thoughtful. i love the sleeve of the shirts and how they peek out from the sleeves of the sweaters/knitwear. end of the collection is losing me just a lil bit!! not liking these combos at all.

casting: 7.5/10 the casting for this show is sooo good. i don’t recognize any of the models but they have such nice walks. i haven't seen anyone that i’m like “totally different vibe”, like everyone is on the same page and i really love that for them. just as i said that… found the one who had to mess it up. also her outfit is ugly... sigh.

venue: 1.5/5 its fine