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silvabrian188-blog · 8 years ago

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Cycling tips for beginners

Cycling is a truly invigorating and liberating experience, enjoyed by people of all ages and from all walks of life.

Related Articles : www.cyclershub.com

Make access and handling easier by removing the cranks, bottom bracket and wheels, then dribble or spray the ﬂuid into the tubes and plug the BB and seat tube with rags or paper. Now gently move the bike around to coat the inside evenly. Allow it to settle and then wipe off excess.

2. Add mudguards

Second, fit mudguards. They'll prolong the life of your bike, components and clothing Second, fit mudguards. They'll prolong the life of your bike, components and clothing Mudguards are probably the most important winter accessory. They’ll prolong the life of your bike, components, and in particular your chain, not to mention improve your comfort. Check for clearances – occasionally a small cutaway might need to be made in order to clear the brakes; mark and cut carefully using a small hacksaw. For tight clearances use SKS RaceBlades. P-clips can be used when eyelets aren’t available.

Don’t forget mudﬂaps: these simple devices can help keep your feet a lot drier, and are useful as a courtesy to riders behind you, especially on group rides. Some brands attach simply by means of two bendy tabs, others require the drilling of a hole and installation with a screw and nut.

3. Prevent punctures

Next, take steps to prevent punctures. Consider fitting Slime-ﬁlled inner tubes, polyurethane protective strips or Kevlar belted tyres Next, take steps to prevent punctures. Consider fitting Slime-ﬁlled inner tubes, polyurethane protective strips or Kevlar belted tyres Getting a ﬂat on the way home during a cold, dark and rainy night is no fun, and repairing it can be made even more difﬁcult with a multispeed or dynamo hub. The onset of winter brings thorny hedge clippings and sharp road grit too, making some kind of puncture protection essential. Install Slime-ﬁlled tubes, polyurethane protective strips or Kevlar belted tyres; the small sacriﬁce in ride quality and weight is well worth it.

Remove wheels, tyres and old tubes. Inspect your rim strips for wear and make sure they adequately cover the spoke holes. Inspect your tyres for thorns or glass if you plan to reuse them. Re-install with the appropriate protection and conﬁrm correct bead seating while inﬂating, especially at the valve.

4. Look after leather parts

If you've got a leather saddle, give it a clean and rub in some saddle dressing If you've got a leather saddle, give it a clean and rub in some saddle dressing Saddles take a real beating in the winter, especially leather ones, particularly if you ride without mudguards – the gritty slurry thrown up by the back wheel can really take its toll on the saddle’s ﬁnish and shape. The surface polish gets scuffed, and the natural protective oils get washed out.

Start by cleaning the underside with a stiff toothbrush and a rag to loosen and remove any dirt. Grab a generous dollop of leather saddle dressing and apply a substantial coating to the underside of the leather; this will seal it from the elements and be drawn in by the heat generated by riding. After a really wet ride, soaked leather that has lost some of its form can be reshaped with ﬁrm hand and thumb pressure before being allowed to dry naturally.

5. Seal cables

Seal those cables with new end caps to keep out the muck Seal those cables with new end caps to keep out the muck Cable wipers and seals are a simple way of keeping your shifting smooth and slick regardless of the weather. Make sure that the end caps match the diameter of your outer cables. Snip off the end cap and loosen the anchor bolt holding the cable. Withdraw it from the mech and slide off the outer in question. Replace your standard end caps with the new ones, and slide the rubber wiper onto the cable ﬁrst before threading it back into the outer with the help of a few drops of oil. Anchor and adjust.

There’s more than a good chance that you might need to replace your cables at this point, because they’ll have been damaged by the anchor bolts and could be frayed, so give them a good inspection. If they do need replacing, choose cables that will withstand wintry weather (see step 8).

6. Use stainless steel

Use stainless steel parts where possible Use stainless steel parts where possible Stainless steel items like gear and brake cables, chains, fasteners and even aftermarket ball bearings can help keep your bike rust-free and looking good. Most bike shops will stock a selection of stainless steel fasteners in 4, 5, and 6mm thread sizes in either Allen or standard versions, along with washers and Nyloc nuts. Grease them well and replace as required.

A stainless steel chain is certainly worth it if you have the budget, and if you do replace your chain it’s a good idea to include a Powerlink type connector to make it easier to remove and clean. Install stainless cables on brakes and derailleurs, especially if you’re adding those little wipers or a new piece of outer. Make sure to add a dab of oil, as it’s still essential to reduce friction wherever metal is concerned.

7. Add reflective aids

Fit some reflectors – most bike shops will sell their spare ones to you at a knock-down price Fit some reflectors – most bike shops will sell their spare ones to you at a knock-down price This bit of advice might be unpopular with racier riders, but when winter hits, so does early nightfall, and this simple step can be a lifesaver on those occasions where your batteries run out, or you’ve left it too late to head home with night closing in. So dig out those old reﬂectors if you still have them. If you don’t, some shops are only too happy to sell on old ones, but expect to pay at least a little something for them.

Pedal reﬂectors are particularly visible, and adhesive reﬂective patches make a good alternative if you want to preserve the clean lines of your bike. Install them on seatstays, fork blades, on rims between spokes, and even helmets and rucksacks.

8. Apply car wax

Finally, apply car wax or silicone spray to the frame to help mud slide off – but keep it away from disc brake rotors Finally, apply car wax or silicone spray to the frame to help mud slide off – but keep it away from disc brake rotors Old fashioned but effective: apply a generous layer of car wax to the entire bike, especially under the down tube and in the bottom bracket area. You can also treat components, even spokes. Harmful grime, grit and dirt are prevented from gaining a solid foothold thanks to the super slippery surface created by the wax. Make sure the bike is clean ﬁrst, then simply spread the paste or liquid with a cloth, allow to dry to a haze, and wipe off. Repeat, then buff to a high polish.

You can also use some of the spray-on after-wash coatings based on light oils or silicone that are currently available; these involve a bit less work but might require more frequent cleaning and re-application. Avoid braking surfaces!

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silvabrian188-blog · 8 years ago

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Bad habits of Cycling

Bad habit 1: Going too fast, too soon

Leading the pack from the off has an obvious draw, but if you want to cross the finish line in pole position you might need to rethink your strategy.

“If your heart rate is too high in the starting 30 minutes, your metabolic rate goes up and your body goes into sugar-burning mode,” says Andy Wadsworth, director of My Life Personal Training and an elite cycling trainer.

Related Articles : www.cyclershub.com/7-tips-to-making-good-coffee-while-bike-camping

“You need to train your body to use the longer-lasting fat reserves rather than sugars, which will literally burn out in half the time.” Start slow and you’ll set a precedent for the whole ride, he says. if you don’t want to blow up, only up the intensity after 30 minutes of riding at a conversational pace.

Don't try to go too fast too soon: Don't try to go too fast too soon: So for the first 30 minutes, work at a perceived exertion rate (RPE) of no more than five out of 10 and then move up to eight or nine out of 10 for six two- to four-minute intervals, with six-minute rest intervals between each, again working at five out of 10.

At the end of that batch, do another 30 minutes of steady-state training and repeat. “If you haven’t been able to recover adequately to tackle the next interval, increase your rest phase, or decrease the length of your high-intensity interval,” says Wadsworth.

Bad habit 2: Climbing in wrong gears

Whatever gradient you’re on, you need a consistent cadence of 90-100rpm. “Ninety to 100 rpm is simply the most efficient ratio,” says John Herety, team manager of Rapha Condor-JLT.

"Any lower and you’re in too high a gear, putting too much strain on your joints; any higher and you’re in too low a gear, wasting valuable energy spinning your legs around at speed.” And while that latest NASA-worthy electronics system that you’ve got on board might help you count, go back to basics, he says.

Your pedalling cadence should be around 100rpm. any lower and you're probably in too high a gear: Your pedalling cadence should be around 100rpm. any lower and you're probably in too high a gear: “You need to develop a feel for how fast your legs are going round, so practise counting for 15 or 30 seconds on every single ride until you know without looking what it feels like to be in the right zone. The best Formula 1 drivers listen to their engines and know how it’s responding, which is exactly what you should be doing.”

Related:Gear down to go faster

Bad habit 3: Too much time at the front/back of groups

Learn how to draft to conserve energy – but don’t become a wheel sucker and ‘forget’ to take your turn. “Cycling off the front of an eight-man pack can reduce oxygen consumption by almost 40 percent,” says Herety.

“But spend too long at the back and you’ll earn the nickname ‘wheel sucker’ and lose friends. Spend too long at the front, though, and you’ll be exhausted.”

The key, he says, is communication and trust. “You need to agree a specific time period – say 60 seconds – for each rider to lead, or if you’re tackling a particularly tough hill you need to be able to communicate that you need to drop back sooner.”

Do this by signalling clearly with a flick of your elbow that you’re pulling out, accelerate forward briefly, so you don’t clip wheels with anyone directly behind you, then go out and allow the next rider to accelerate smoothly past you, tucking in behind.

“For real efficiency, you need to stay as close to the person in front as possible, focusing on the brake callipers rather than the wheel so there’s just inches between you,” says Herety. Which means keeping it smooth.

“One of my pet hates is people suddenly standing up on hills, slowing down, which causes countless accidents. Nobody will ever think the worse of you for asking if it’s your turn to step up or back, but they will if you make any sudden movements and cause the mother of all pile-ups.

"It’s best to avoid hitting the brakes and slightly pull out to the side of the pack to use wind resistance to slow yourself down more gradually."

Bad habit 4: Never resting

Overtraining can cause persistent soreness, suppressed immunity, injuries, moodiness and loss of motivation. “Rest isn’t the absence of training, it’s an important component of it,” says Wadsworth.

“During recovery periods, your cardiovascular and muscular systems are restored and rebuilt to a higher level – that’s where all performance gains are made.” Every training programme should have a rest day in addition to two or three easy days (shorter, less intense rides following harder efforts) each week, he says.

Overtraining isn't good for you - learn to rest once in a while: Overtraining isn't good for you - learn to rest once in a while: “If you haven’t had a strenuous week, it’s all right to cross-train – swim, take a yoga class, or treat your dog to a long walk. But if you’re coming off a high-mileage week, reward yourself with a day of total rest. Schedule a massage or breakfast with a friend so you’ll feel like the time off was well spent.”

Related: Want to get faster? Take a week off

Bad habit 5: Cycling, cycling and more cycling

Clocking up the miles will do your cycling no end of good, but ignore your overall fitness and you could ultimately suffer. "Cycling isn't an all-round form of activity,” says Matt Rabin, nutritional advisor with Team Garmin-Sharp. “It uses predominantly the lower body muscles and in a very specific, limited way.”

The upshot is that your cycling muscles will become short and tight, and non-cycling muscles will become weak, creating imbalances – little wonder that in one Californian study of over 500 randomly selected recreational cyclists, over 85 percent reported overuse injuries.

Supplement your riding with conditioning specific work. “Focusing on core stability keeps the pelvic girdle and spine in the perfect position to stop the pelvis tipping forward and prevents backache and poor form,” says Rabin.

Strengthen your glutes with wall ball squats: Strengthen your glutes with wall ball squats: Try toe touchdowns – lie on your back with knees bent and hands under your back. Contract your abs and press your back against your hands, then slowly lift one foot a few inches off the floor, pause and lower.

Swap feet and continue until you lose the pressure against your hands. Avoid overly-tight hamstrings by doing 12 toe curls off the edge of a step, then turn around and do 12 heel drops.

And avoid knee maltracking and strengthen your glutes with wall ball squats: place a fitness ball between your back and a wall and slowly squat down until your thighs are parallel to the ground.

Bad habit 6: Pre-ride faffing

Nothing is more infuriating than having to wait while other riders endlessly adjust and check their kit – and if that laggard is you, as well as losing friends you’ll lose time in the saddle. “You have to know the moment you get on your bike it’s ready to ride, so always prep it for the next ride the moment you finish your last one,” says Wadsworth.

“Any niggles will be ultra-fresh in your mind, so you’ll know exactly what needs looking at. Clean it, oil it, check the wheels are in properly, and check you’ve got your pump, spare tubes and tyre levers, so it’s literally ready to ride the moment you pick it up.

Get your bike ready in advance of your ride: Get your bike ready in advance of your ride: "If you had a flat on your car you wouldn’t leave it on the road unfixed until the next time you needed to go somewhere – you’d sort it straight away, which is what you should do with your bike.”

And for those riders who suffer some form of obsessive compulsive disorder and can’t stop re-checking their kit, keep a simple checklist with your spare tubes and tick off each item – including sports drinks, energy bars and wet weather clothing – after each ride.

“Actually seeing it in black and white will mean your mind can move on to other things so you can actually get out there, riding, in half the time,” he says.

Related:Banish the pre-ride faff

Bad habit 7: Avoiding hills

Riding at full-throttle is exhilarating, but any rider knows that if they want to truly improve, they have to head for the hills. “Anyone who says they’re ‘not good’ at hills is wrong – they’re just avoiding them because they think they’re not good at them,” says Wadsworth. But he isn’t an advocate of finding the biggest hill you can and grimacing to the top.

“Incorporating smaller, relatively shallow four to eight percent gradient hills that last from 20 seconds to two minutes, keeping the power output up throughout, will have much bigger benefi ts – as you become used to increasing power for short bursts so your body and energy systems adapt.”

He reckons that if you add just two or three 30-minute hilly rides a week you’ll actually start enjoying them and start seeking them out rather than avoiding them. You’ll start focusing on power output – attacking each hill in progressively harder gears at the same cadence, rather than spinning your way up in easy gears – rather than speed, which is where improvement lies.

And just because you’ve conquered a climb, don’t take your foot off the gas. “Actually accelerating once you reach the top will set you apart from the competition when it comes to racing,” says Wadsworth.

“I see so many riders drop down the gears at the top and coast, when that’s the last thing you should be doing. Again, don’t just focus on huge climbs for this – it can be done every time you’re facing a small slope, even if you’re just commuting in town, and will make you psychologically much stronger.”

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silvabrian188-blog · 8 years ago

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Tips to Riding Bikes in Group

Communicate

The most important factor to successful group riding is communication. Make sure you know the meaning of and always pass any verbal signals through the group. As well as obvious shouts such as “slowing” and “braking”, others to be aware of are “car up”, meaning there is a car ahead to be aware of, “car back”, meaning there is a car behind and “single out”, meaning to adopt single file. Be aware there are local variations of these shouts, so use your eyes too. There are a number of hand signals you should also be aware of .

Related Articles : www.cyclershub.com

Be aware

Stay relaxed in the group but constantly look around and don’t mindlessly follow the wheels. Look past the riders in front to get a heads up of the road ahead. Always look first and let the riders around you know before moving within the group.

Obey the rules of the road

Most sportives take place on roads that are open to traffic and, even with those on closed roads, there’s no guarantee that there won’t be some traffic on the course, so ride accordingly. Respect junctions and always stay on the correct side of the road.

Ride consistently and predictably

Your movements will affect everyone in the group. Hold a straight line, don’t weave and always overtake around the right hand side of the group. Don’t grab your brakes and, if you stand out of the saddle, don’t let your back wheel drop back. Also, when you come to a feed station, no matter how relieved you are to see it, don’t veer across the road.

Don’t overlap wheels

In case the rider ahead needs to brake, don’t follow their rear wheel directly. It’s perfectly acceptable and you’ll get the same drafting benefit from riding six inches either side of it. However it’s essential that you don’t overlap their rear wheel as any sudden movements by them will be likely to bring both of your down.

Make sure both you and your bike are prepared

Ensure your bike is well maintained as misfiring gears or poor brakes can make you a liability in a bunch. Carry suitable spares, clothing and some of your own food and drink so that you are self reliant.

Avoid half wheeling

If road conditions and traffic allows you’ll often be riding two abreast. Maintain an even pace and stay level with the person next to you. Do not constantly up the pace whenever a rider draws level to you. Known as “half-wheeling” this is definitely frowned on.

Wheel suck

Don’t always sit amongst the wheels and shirk your stint on the front. Even if you just put in a few turns of the pedals it’ll be appreciated. However, even if you’re finding the pace easy, don’t get on the front and accelerate, try to maintain the pace of the group.

Don’t ride in the gutter

If you’re on the front of the group, don’t sit in the gutter as you’ll be forcing everyone else to follow you increasing the likelihood of hitting obstructions such as drain covers and of picking up punctures. Where possible, ride one metre out from the curb.

Expect the group to change

Groups will change, fragment and reform as the ride progresses. Expect larger groups on flat sections but, on longer climbs, they’ll break up. Similarly, on descents, riders will tend to string out to give more time to react at higher speeds.

Hand signals

In addition to the standard directional signal of the left or right hand extended out to the side, which should be used whenever you are cycling on the public highway, see below some of the other common hand signals used when riding in a group situation.

Make yourself aware of these prior to going out on a group ride and also check with a group member which hand signals and verbal shouts they regularly use, as they can vary locally.

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silvabrian188-blog · 8 years ago

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How to Climb Better on Your Mountain Bike?

1. Pace your breathing.

Race horses breathe in and out with every gallop. Focus on keeping your inhaling and exhaling at a good pace when you are exerting yourself during the climb. After the climb, continue a good breathing pace to “catch up” before you hit the next climb.

Related Articles : www.cyclershub.com/7-tips-to-making-good-coffee-while-bike-camping

2. Get mental.

Good climbing technique is often a mental game. If you look up and see a long climb ahead, often the best thing to do is to break it down into manageable sections. Sometime you have to push through some of the burning legs feeling, and only focus on the tree up ahead near the big boulder. When you are almost there, then you switch your focus to the gully further up, etc. Breaking the climb into pieces makes it much more manageable mentally, instead of the whole climbing being one massive monster that you cannot conquer.

3. Stay seated.

Getting off your seat is sometimes necessary for a short burst of speed, but caution! Use this technique very sparingly, because it will fatigue you very quickly. Staying seated is much more efficient, since you don’t have to support your body weight. If the climb is really steep and you feel the front wheel wanting to lift, shift your sitting position farther forward on the horn of your seat and lean a bit more forward.

4. Maintain a good cadence.

A higher cadence on a lower gear is more efficient over the long haul than a higher gear with a cadence that is too low. Trying to power your way through a taller gear might seem faster, but it will drain your energy reserves more quickly. When you maintain a higher cadence and stay in the aerobic zone, your muscles can clear out the lactic acid to prevent a buildup. But if you push a really high gear at a slower cadence, chances are you’ll go anaerobic and your muscles won’t be able to clear out that lactic acid. Consequently, you’ll burn out too soon.

5. Maintain momentum.

Try to not slow down too much for turns and obstacles during the climb. Repeatedly getting yourself back up to speed uses up a lot of energy. This also means picking up speed before you hit the steep sections, so that you can carry more momentum into them.

6. Stiffen the fork and shocks.

If you have an adjustable fork and shock on your bike and the trail has plenty of climbs, dial down the fork compression and set the shock to climb mode. As long as there aren’t a bunch of technical sections coming up on the trail where my suspension is going to get a real work-out, I usually stiffen up my fork and shock. This makes the ride harsher but it also makes climbing more efficient. A soft, squishy ride is great for maintaining control on the bumpy stuff and on downhills, but is generally not as efficient for climbing.

7. Stay well hydrated.

I always pre-hydrate myself before I even start riding. I then continue to hydrate during the ride. I remember my soccer coach in high school always drilling it into us: “It takes 20 minutes for that water that you just drank to get to your system. So drink a very good amount of water 20 minutes before you start the game.” This also means not to wait until you are thirsty to get your next drink during the ride. If you do that, you will never be able to keep up with your hydration needs.

8. Ride more often.

If you’re still having issues making it up the climbs, focus on getting yourself into better cardio shape. You may just need to up your cardiovascular activities. I know that usually at the end of the season, I can do the same climbs much easier than I did at the beginning of the season.

I know that many of us (myself included) can’t ride as often as we’d like. In order to keep my aerobic fitness up, I now also do brisk walks of 2-3 miles around 3 times per week. During these brisk walks, I mix in 1-minute slow jogs just to get my heart rate up (just like circuit training on a tread mill). These walks are just another really awesome way to improve my cardio. I just started doing this a few months ago, and it has made a huge difference for my riding.

9. Make sure your tires are properly inflated.

Last time I hopped onto my bike, I noticed that my ride was slow and I was pushing myself with more effort than normal. I then noticed that my rear tire was a bit noisy. I stopped and checked my tire pressures (I always ride with a small pump and gauge). It read 15 psi front and 12 psi back. I pumped them both up to 28 psi and it made a huge difference in the amount of effort that it took to get up to and maintain speed. I probably also just avoided a pinch flat. Now-a-days I check my tire pressures much more often.

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silvabrian188-blog · 8 years ago

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Fitness tips for biking

Just getting started? Kick off with some short rides about 1 or 2 hours long, and stay in the easy gears. You’ll get a great work out but won’t tire out your leg muscles too quickly.

For more info : www.cyclershub.com

As you get used to it, you can mix things up a bit. Long rides at a steady pace are great for endurance fitness and burning fat. Short rides with hard sprints or climbs followed by recovery periods (you keep cycling, but more gently, like on flat sections of the trail) are great for your cardiovascular fitness.

Mountain biking gives you a whole body workout. You’ll be using your arms, shoulders and core muscles as well as your legs, so the more you ride the more toned and stronger those muscles will get.

Give yourself 10 or 20 minutes of easy riding at the start of each ride to let you muscles warm up, and don’t forget to stretch out all your muscle groups at the end.

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silvabrian188-blog · 8 years ago

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What to wear when biking?

Comfortable clothing is key! You don’t need to go all out and purchase full bike kit to start with, but you will need a helmet and some gloves. Padded shorts will make your ride much more comfortable too. Sports kit will be fine, but if you get into it and decide you want to ride more then some MTB shorts, knee pads and a cycling jersey are worth the investment.

Related Articles : www.cyclershub.com/7-tips-to-making-good-coffee-while-bike-camping

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silvabrian188-blog · 8 years ago

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Bike maintenance in campaign

Now you’re wearing something comfortable, let’s move on to keeping your bike happy. You don’t need a shed full of tools to achieve this, though it helps to have a friendly bike shop nearby in case you need help.

Related Articles : www.cyclershub.com

1. Clean and oil your chain regularly, particularly if riding in bad weather. You’ll eliminate the dreaded 'creak' that cyclists hate, and more expensive parts like chainrings won’t wear out as quickly.

2. Check your tyre pressure: recommended levels will be indicated on the sidewall. A floor pump (also called a track pump) is a good investment, as it requires less effort to get to the recommended pressure, and they’ll feature a handy pressure gauge.

3. Fit mudguards in wet conditions. Your back will thank you, your washing machine will thank you, everyone riding behind you will be grateful. Some (including some BikeRadar staffers) will point out they can ruin the clean lines of a fancy road bike, but in the mire of winter do you really care?

4. Clean your bike regularly: hot soapy water and a sponge will do the job for most parts unless the grime is caked on, in which case there are some great cleaning sprays available. Use specialist degreaser for the drivetrain (cassette, chain, crankset and so on). Then spray your gleaming bike all over with a silicone aerosol – avoid braking surfaces – as this will stop mud sticking on your next ride.

5. Learn how to fix a puncture, and always carry a repair kit (including tyre levers, patches or new inner tube, and pump). When you're miles from home and suddenly hear that hissing sound, you’ll be glad you learned how to fix it yourself.

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silvabrian188-blog · 8 years ago

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Food and drink for bike campaign

Right, that’s clothing and kit sorted, let’s consider your fuel source. You could spend a fortune on specially formulated sports nutrition, but the truth is you don’t have to. Have a rummage around your cupboards at home and see what’s portable.

Related Articles : www.cyclershub.com/7-tips-to-making-good-coffee-while-bike-camping

1. Stay hydrated. Whether you prefer a water bottle or a hydration backpack, make sure you pack some fluid whenever you’re heading out. You can nearly always find somewhere to refill along the way, and most coffee shops are happy to oblige for free.

2. Avoid the dreaded 'bonk', where your body runs out of fuel and you grind to a painful halt. The body can carry around 90mins worth of glycogen for high-tempo efforts before it needs replenishing, or else will switch to burning fat. The problem with burning fat is that you can’t work at anywhere near the same intensity level. So keep consuming around 100-250 calories every 30mins, whether that’s energy gels, cereal bars or a banana. We like carrot cake, by the way.

3. Cramping is a common complaint when you start riding harder or longer than your body’s used to. One piece of advice often offered is to ensure you replace the electrolytes lost through sweating, either by drinking specially formulated sports drinks, or by making your own (it’s basically fruit juice, water, and a little sugar and salt). No one knows for certain why cramps occur, but this seems to help.

4. A recovery drink after a long, hard ride will help the body repair itself, in conjunction with some rest. Key to this is protein, so aim to consume around 15-20g within 30mins of finishing if possible. There are plenty of premixed recovery drinks on the market, or you can have fun by making some. Our current go-to is: milk, one banana, a tablespoon of peanut butter and some honey, all whizzed up in a blender. Yum.

5. The mid-ride coffee stop is a cherished tradition, and there’s sound scientific reasoning behind it: caffeine has been found to measurably improve your endurance on the bike.

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silvabrian188-blog · 8 years ago

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Tips for Better Cycling

Wear a Helmet

More than 6,000 cyclists seek emergency care for head injuries each year in the U.S., and head trauma accounts for 75 percent of cycling fatalities. Used properly, bike helmets are nearly 90 percent effective in preventing brain injuries. Choose a helmet that meets the standards of the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission. Or, look for a sticker from the Snell Memorial Foundation or the American Society of Testing and Materials. Pick a bright color and a helmet that fits snugly.

For more : www.cyclershub.com

Make Sure It Fits Your Frame

Buying a new bike? To find the right frame size for your body, straddle the bike and stand flat-footed. On a road bike, there should be one to two inches of clearance between your groin and the top tube. On a mountain bike, the clearance should be at least two inches.Your handlebars should be one inch lower than your seat top. Buy your bicycle from a reputable dealer who will help you find the right bike and fit.

Pick the Right Seat

The hard, narrow seats on racing bikes can be particularly uncomfortable for women, who tend to have widely spaced “sit bones.” Special anatomically designed saddles—wider and more cushioned at the back—are easy to install. Gel-filled saddles or pads or sheepskin pads can ease pressure and friction. Position the saddle so that your knee is only slightly bent at the bottom of each rotation. If it's bent too much, the seat is too low; if the knee locks when extended, or you have to reach for the pedal, the seat is too high. Adjust the seat's "fore-aft" position and make sure the seat is level.

Start Slowly

If you are out of shape, it's best to start slowly. Pedal just 30 minutes or so a day on flat terrain for the first three or four weeks. Gradually, you can increase the intensity of your riding and your choice of terrain, adding hills for a better workout. Also, share the fun with others. Riding in a group can make the miles zip by faster and motivate you to become a better cyclist.

Dress for Comfort

If you cycle a lot, consider wearing a pair of sleek cycling shorts. They have less fabric to wrinkle or bunch up, so there’s less chance of skin irritation. For extra protection, choose cycling shorts with no seams at the crotch and special lining or padding to wick away perspiration. If you use clipless pedals, you'll need to wear special cycling shoes with a cleat fitted to the sole; they lock into a mechanism in the pedals, holding the shoes in place. These can be a little hard to get used to, but help you pedal more powerfully and efficiently.

Be Traffic-Savvy

If you’re cycling in heavy traffic, on a narrow road or on winding downhill roads, ride in the lane with the cars, not to the side, where you’re not as visible and may get pushed off to the side. Of course, if a car wants to pass, move out of the way. Whether you think you'll be riding in heavy traffic or light, it's wise to attach a bicycle rear-view mirror to your handlebar, helmet or eyeglasses.

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silvabrian188-blog · 8 years ago

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Bike riding Tips and tricks with kids

Riding with kids slows you down, and that’s not a bad thing. Beyond creating future bike riders, ingraining street skills, and engaging in physical activity, biking with kids is fun. Here’s how to make the most of it.

Come prepared

Ride early in the day with rested, fed kids. Biking is just like taking the bus/car/plane/train. If you ride the bus with a diaper bag containing an extra set of clothing, three times the amount of snacks you could possibly need, an emergency picture book, and a stuffed animal or two, bring that along on your bike ride.

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Practice makes perfect

Bikes are such efficient vehicles so it’s wonderful to be able to head straight out the driveway and bike to your destination, but if you prefer a bit of contained practice, walk or drive your bikes to a nearby park or schoolyard before you hit the road or trail.

Where to ride

You can ride with kids anywhere. Low-traffic multi-use trails and bike paths are fun to ride with kids, but per the motto of Kidical Mass, “Kids are Traffic Too” and often our destinations of choice aren’t reachable by trails alone. Quiet streets are great, as are protected bike lanes on bigger streets.

Check your local laws for legality of riding on sidewalks. Some cities allow all bicyclists on sidewalks in all parts of the city, some allow just children, and some don’t allow anyone to bike on the sidewalk. Know that the safe feeling of sidewalks is a little misleading. If you need to use a bit of sidewalk to get between quiet streets or to access the trail, travel at walking speed and be extra cautious at intersections and crossing driveways.

Back or front

Kids attached to your bike via bike seats, trailer bikes, trailers, or upon cargo bikes are fully in your control, but free-rolling kids are another matter. Sandwiching kids between two adults is the best of both worlds—a conductor to lead the way and demonstrate looking for and pointing out hazards, signaling, and navigating; while the caboose can keep a watchful eye and yell helpful reminders. But one adult with one or more kids may prefer to start out behind them to monitor biking behavior. Once everyone is more familiar with biking, ride up front and trust your ducklings to follow behind. Check local rules for riding two abreast and do so when there’s room.

Repeat repeat repeat

You’re probably used the sound of your own voice, and used to listening to yourself say the same thing over and over. Reinforcing ideas might leave you hoarse at times, but it’s a terrific way to cement safe riding habits. “Remember to leave an invisible bike between you and parked cars” and my favorite, “It’s not a race!” Eventually “Look left, right, left” will become ingrained thanks to your many reminders.

Bike like you parent

Do you like to redirect attention to nip a sibling fight in the bud? It works on the bike, too! I keep up a steady chatter to keep my kids engaged in the ride and not in exchanging blows. It also works for keeping minds off drizzle in the face or despair over an awesome stick left behind at the park. Pointing out trail-side cats, gaggles of baby geese, reading the names of tugboats, it all helps keep the ride engaging. Playful parenting fans might turn their bikes into space ships in search of a new planet. Or if you’re all about incentives (aka bribes), the promise of ice cream at the end of the trek can dispel many a tantrum.

Have a backup plan

If you babywear, always bring a baby carrier with you in case you need to do some walking. Knowing how to fix a flat is great, but if fixing a flat with kids in tow doesn’t sound like your cup of tea, knowing nearby bike shops is always good. Or be prepared to lock up and walk or bus, and return for your bike later. Don’t ride your bike with a flat, but the weight of a kid on a bike while you wheel it somewhere is A-OK. If your tot has suddenly decided there is no way she’s keeping her helmet on, dismount your bike and wheel it along while you work on getting things back on track.

Give yourself extra time

Sometimes you’ll arrive at your destination earlier than expected, but often things take longer than the estimate. Usually this is simply the amount of time your non-stop pedaling will take, but leave yourselves time to stop and smell the roses, stomp the dandelions, visit a Little Free Library, and watch an ant trail. Arriving at your destination is important, but so is cultivating a sense of adventure biking while for transportation with kids.

Keep it short and sweet

Set yourselves up for success with a very short ride to a fun stop…like somewhere with ice cream or a playground. And always a potty.

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