shekougirl

[shekougirl]

Tea Shopping in Nanshan District of Shenzhen...From Sea World in Shekou, Bus M371 will take you practically to the door. Another route from Shekou is Bus 113 or K113 going north along Nanhai Blvd. Get off the bus at the stop just beyond the intersection of Nanhai and Chuangye. Walk about two blocks and you're there--2nd floor. There are lots of vendors, some selling just tea, or accoutrements, or both. The better vendors will provide tasting before you buy and will educate you on the different teas and their specific preparations, etc. There is a young lady who speaks English and is exceptionally patient, helpful and polite with Westerners who don't know much about Chinese tea. I will try to locate her stall no. and edit this posting.  Each time I visit, I try to buy a new tea to add to my collection and train my palate. It's very similar to wine tasting, observing the color, taste, smell, and age of the leaves....one of my favorite new past-times. Enjoy!

[shekougirl]

Thinking of taking the plunge and learning Mandarin?  Private tutor vs. formal classroom instruction?  Both are helpful--it just depends on your learning style, self-discipline, and other distracting factors such as your life-style.  I started out my life here in Shenzhen with a tutor twice a week and progressed, but thought I needed some external pressure, such as competing with classmates and teachers assigning homework and tests.  So, I enrolled in the beginner's Mandarin course at Shenzhen University this fall; yes, indeed, I got my money's worth.  The three teachers (san wei laoshi) were very good--professional, caring, and interested in the students as people.  The course was intense with expectations that the students would learn to read and write as well as speak at a given level.  The class consisted of mostly younger adults, but there were a few token "mature" students like myself.  We came from all around the world, and any classroom explanations other than Mandarin were in English.  Lots of homework, too, but necessary in order to progress.  Classes went from 8:30 a.m. to 11:50 a.m.  It was a great experience, and I plan to take the next class in the summer and/or fall.  May I just say that the Asian students seemed to have an easier time of reading and writing the Hanzi than us Westerners....just saying'.  OK, they were speaking Mandarin pretty well, too!  To learn more about the university course offerings, go online and look up Shenzhen University Mandarin Language Courses through the College of International Exchange

[shekougirl]

Advice--Avoid the Jumbo Temple floating restaurant. We had a bad experience there, confirming that it is a tourist rip off place....rude service, so-so quality food, false advertising, misleading the tourists in their haste to turn over tables. Will never go back.

[shekougirl]

Sunday hike view (at Shekou Shenzhen China)

[shekougirl]

Hand gestures commonly used by the Chinese for counting 1 to 10

[shekougirl]

Culture is an understanding of nature.--Devdutt Pattanaik on TED Radio

How are different cultures formed?  Mr. Pattanaik explains how each country's culture is based on stories, symbols and rituals as its people try to understand their relationship with nature.  Look for the program entitled "Believers and Non-believers" on TED Radio.  

[shekougirl]

"Tis the Season for Stinky Fruit--Durian

I first heard of durian in a gelato shop where I was told it's a fruit from southeast Asia.  This spring I saw the actual fruit--a big spiky ball that looks like a rolled up hedge hog--in the fruit and vegetable stands around Shenzhen and finally asked a friend what they were.  She told me it was durian, a fruit whose season peaks in April and May throughout southeast Asia.  They have a small, edible soft pod in the center that is supposed to be good; however, the fruit is banned from many restaurants and hotels because of the rotten smell that can permeate from the outer shell.  She said that she experienced an after-taste the entire day after trying one.  A couple of days later I was sitting down wind from a table of these on the sidewalk and smelled a foul, nasty dead-fish, road-kill smell.  Sure enough, it was the durian, and they weren't even cut open yet.  My husband didn't really notice the smell.

I have read that people acquire a taste for these, much like cheese, wine, dark chocolates or truffles.  There are interesting testimonials on the internet.  Feel free to explore further on-line.  I haven't tried it yet and have a feeling it will be a challenge to acquire an affinity for this….alas, I will keep an open mind!

[shekougirl]

Macau!  Well, I now understand why James Bond 007 and all his spy friends like to do business in Macau.  Glitz, glamour, gambling, and good food--what more can I say?  I haven't been to Las Vegas; therefore, can't compare the two.  There are three basic sections, or islands, from north to south that are separated from mainland China by a river, or channel.  Macau with its historic centre, Taipa-Cotai, and Coloane.  Each area has its own personality and each deserves a look.  The ferry we took landed at Macau where most of the historical landmarks and city proper are located, as well as some earlier fabulous hotels with casinos.  But don't stop there in your explorations.  Take the free Galaxy Shuttle from the Ferry to the Cotai strip where the sprawling hotel casino complexes are, including City of Dreams that houses some shows.  From the Galaxy "hub" you can hop via any other hotel shuttles to go to their hotel/casino complex without having to walk along the multiple construction sites.  Take a day to go from hotel to hotel to savor the luxury of their lobbies and shopping amenities--absolute eye candy.  We stayed at a hotel in the Cotai strip for 3 nights--ample time to get a feel of the areas and to enjoy their offerings.  Look for seasonal packages for good rates.

The concierges at all the hotels will be happy to answer any questions, even if you aren't staying at their particular hotel.  You can take a taxi or bus to visit the old Village of Coloane complete with its Portuguese influenced architecture.  Be sure to have dinner or lunch at Ferdinand's (or was it Fernando's?) in the village, known for its Portuguese-prepared codfish among other fabulous dishes….a diamond-in-the-rough restaurant that does not advertise, going just by word of mouth.  It's family friendly and frequented by lots of ex-pats--come as you are.  On the east side of Coloane is the Westin Hotel whose setting is nice and quiet, away from the hustle and bustle of the Cotai Strip and Macau city.  But!  Beware the taxi drivers at all the hotel venues, 50% of whom are illegally behaving like black taxis during busy times.  They will pick up people who don't like to que in line and charge these willing riders double the fare.  (The City of Macau needs to work on this problem.)  All in all, we enjoyed ourselves and hope to return again someday.  PS:  I highly recommend going to the House of Dancing Water show--jaw-dropping awesome!!  And don't forget to try the delicious Portuguese Egg Custard (see the pic above) that supposedly originated here.  

[shekougirl]

Springtime in Shekou…

[shekougirl]

Chance Encounter with a Delightful Career Girl

Competition for jobs and furthering one's career here is daunting.  Furthermore, enrollment into the better colleges here in China requires huge financial assistance from family and/or scoring at the very top scale for college admission scholarships--pretty tough to achieve in this huge population pool.  

I want to share a chance encounter with two Chinese women (sisters) while hiking the local "stair master mountain" the other day.  It all started with a friendly "Hello."  One spoke excellent English, we enjoyed chatting, and agreed to meet one for lunch.  Eager to share her favorite Chinese food with me, she graciously treated me to her favorite restaurant at the Sheraton Hotel near the convention/exhibition center of Shenzhen.  She shared her background, was single, and a licensed public accountant.  She had earned the Chinese equivalent of CPA/CTA (certified public accountant and certified tax accountant) by taking independent study and sitting for the exams.  In her prior job, she had become frustrated with the inability to read and understand English accounting forms, so she decided to take an extended leave of absence to study English for two years.  Her goal is to earn a Business English certification this July that will provide more opportunity in her career.  She opted (again) for independent study that includes on-line coursework and two separate two-months' attendance at an English language academy in the Philippines.  She enriches her study by watching English-speaking TV and studies a speech by President Obama.  She also wants more English-speaking friends to practice and ask questions for clarification; i.e., "What is meant by "Uncle Sam--who is he?"  "What is meant by easy-peasy Japanesie" and "piece of cake?"  Lots of laughter and humorous discussion….  Needless to say, we had an enjoyable day hanging out; and I foresee a mutually beneficial friendship on the horizon, as we practice our respective foreign languages together.  

My 26-year-old Chinese Mandarin tutor's career choice is another success story.  After three years of college, made possible by financial help from relatives, and a few years of rather challenging positions, she is now a self-employed tutor and has managed to give back by assisting her two younger sisters in college so that they, too, can have self-supporting careers.  

I have so much respect for these women who are following their dreams, whether by necessity or choice, with the cultural pressures that still pervade in their hometowns.  (They remind me of my kids.)  

[shekougirl]

Cultural observation

Yesterday my Mandarin tutor shared with me an interesting anecdote.  One of her expat students is a psychiatrist who had shared a research project with her, as follows….

 A group of Chinese men and a group of Western men were presented with the following scenario:  You are on a boat with your beloved wife and mother.  The boat capsizes with a limited number of life jackets, so you must choose who will receive the only life jacket--your significant other or your parent.  Most Chinese men chose to give the life jacket to the parent, and most Western men chose the significant other.

The Chinese choice is consistent with the time-honored tradition that family is a priority, especially the parents for whom it is your honor and duty to care.  A wife is replaceable, but not your parents.  On the other hand, the Westerners believe that your significant other will be with you the rest of your life, not your parents.  Interesting comparison….

[shekougirl]

Advice from the not-so-savvy traveler

Don't make the same mistake I did while getting back into China from Hong Kong International Airport.  I had planned to take the Shekou Ferry from the airport to Shenzhen--it's a relaxing 30-minute ride to the ferry station where you can get through customs/immigration in no time flat.  Well, when I disembarked the plane, I thought I had to claim my check-in baggage first, go through immigrations, then go to the ferry.  Wrong!  If you do that, as I did, you have gone too far, are out of the security area, and must take alternative transportation to China.  

In my case, it was Sunday evening when everyone and their brother was returning to mainland China from Hong Kong.  I chose to take the bus (mistake no. 2) which required going through the Shenzhen Bay Border, a grueling, tiresome hour and a half que to get through immigrations amongst pushy crowds vying for better positions amongst thousands of humanity.  This is not something you want to do after a 16-hour flight by yourself, pulling a 77-lb bag and schlepping a heavy shoulder bag.  

So instead, just follow the signs to the ferry and check-in, get a ticket, and show them your baggage claim ticket.  An employee will retrieve your luggage and bring it to the ferry, and oila! you will be gently on your way on a relaxing ferry ride to Shekou.  I do look forward to doing it the right way next time.  Safe travels!

[shekougirl]

Dapeng Fortress and Ancient Village

In early April I took an organized day trip to hike up Qiniang Mountain in the Shenzhen Dapeng Peninsula National Geopark and to view this walled village and fortress in the subdistrict Dapeng, district Longgang, Guangdong Province, China.  It is located about 55 km from the center of Shenzhen.  The fortress was built in 1394 to protect the area from pirates, and later developed into a town during the Ming and Qing dynasties.  Go on-line to learn more detail about the area.  There are nice photo opportunities and below are some directions that I jotted down along the way so that I could return in the future with my husband and our driver. The trip was organized by an Italian expat who enjoys sharing his knowledge of the area.  He has future trips planned around the area, and I will share his link in a future post.

I highly recommend using GPS to chart your course.  To the mountain, head out of Shenzhen via Yantian and follow the Eastern Coast Expressway.  Follow your GPS directions for the exit and to proceed into the peninsula to the mountain.  There is a fairly new museum at the base of the mountain for those less hardy for the climb.  This is a volcanic mountain with educational signage along the stone step path.  You need to be in fairly good shape to go all the way up, but families and people of all strengths go for it.

From Qiniang Mt. to the fortress and village, go north on Xinda Road.  Turn right at Binhai 2nd Road.  Go left on Yintan Road, right on Pengfei Road, then left into Dapeng Fortreess SE gate, which looks like a strip mall parking lot where you can park.  Again, I recommend using GPS to get from the mountain to the Fortress.

Heading back to Shenzhen, take Peng Fei Rd out of town to return to the Expressway.  GPS!  

[shekougirl]

[shekougirl]

My favorite dim sum restaurant….

It's the Shang Palace Restaurant in the Shangri La Hotel located on the east side of Shenzhen in Luohu, across the street from the Railway Station, Jianshe Road.  Also across the street from the Luoho Commercial Shopping Center, well-known to ex-pats and Hong Kong residents for shopping bargains.  From the west side of the city where I live in Shekou, we take the metro Shekou Line 2 (gold), transfer at Grand Theater to Luobao Line 1 (green line) all the way to the terminus at Luohu.  It's a crazy busy station.  Look for the underground passage that takes you underneath the intersection to the hotel side of the street, as you will not be able to cross it on the surface.  They serve a very reasonably priced all-you-can-eat dim sum meal at lunch hour Mon. thru Fri. and on weekends from 10:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.  I suggest you double check the hours before going, since everything is subject to change around here.  The restaurant is on the 2nd floor of the hotel and is busy whenever we go, a good sign.  We have tried dim sum at other restaurants, including Hong Kong, and so far, this is my favorite for price and taste.  To order, you will be given a list of pricing options and you pre-order by checking off what you want.  Fortunately, the list includes pinyin and English names.  You eat along the way as they bring each set to your table.  Each item typically includes three pieces per serving and I split with another person.  Order until you are full.  The meal is lovely with the fragrant jasmine tea.  Enjoy.

PS:  I am typing this on a lazy Sunday morning.  My Chinese neighbor across the hallway (she's either Auntie, grandmother, or ayi) just gave me a bag of fresh, warm steamed buns with sweet red bean paste in the center.  I can't understand her Chinese, but can tell that she wants me to eat it while it's hot.  She is blowing kisses to me.  Delish!  I wonder if she gives cooking lessons….

[shekougirl]

My Maiden Blog

Hello, hubby and I have been living here in Shenzhen for about 7 months, arriving in September, 2013.  In that time I have seen this city grow and change in front of my eyes.   I have learned enough Mandarin to know how to ask some questions, but still not yet understand the rapidly spoken answers.  Navigating around the city is feeling more natural.  All that said, there is so much to learn and experience, and we have only just begun.  

As I meet new ex-pat wives, I see myself in their eyes and in the questions they ask:  Where are the best places to shop for clothes, household goods, and groceries?  Where can I find curtain rods?  What is the easiest way to cross over to Hong Kong--bus, taxi, ferry?  Who is the best hair dresser?  Know any good tailors?  What travel destinations are recommended in Southeast China for families? Or just for relaxation?  These are just a few of the many questions I encounter at coffee hour for the newly arrived expat wives.  I share what I know, and wish I knew more.  So, here it goes:  I resolve to post my everyday experiences that in some small way may help save someone else the time and frustration of searching for answers.  There are lots of resources developed by those before me and I will include those along the way.  

My pledge to the reader--as I learn from those before me, I will share with you.  This could include mundane and tedious directions to the Dragon stores to find the perfect stylish area rug, or an amazing trek around the fortress on the Dapeng Peninsula (which I plan to do in a couple of days). Better yet, how I dealt with a special needs boy who scaled down the exterior of our high-rise apartment like Spider Man (in his stocking feet) from 13th floor to 6th floor and decided he wanted to come inside through our balcony.  Stay tuned for life with Shekou Girl….

[shekougirl]

“Travel has a way of stretching the mind. The stretch comes not from travel’s immediate rewards, the inevitable myriad new sights, smells and sounds, but with experiencing firsthand how others do differently what we believed to be the right and only way.” – Ralph Crawshaw