sdhextendedpractice

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Rationale 

https://issuu.com/samuelhandley/docs/rationale

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Printed Publication

The final publication is crisp, clean and effective laid out. The matt cover gives a contemporary high quality look, whilst the use of two fonts throughout and simple yet graphic layout ensures coherency and flow throughout the magazine. The use of images only with no text ensures each shoot explains it self.

The colours are vibrant and impactful. If I had to edit one thing it would be the maternal shoot which ended up being slightly dark but all in all I am super happy with the result.

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Final Zine:

 https://issuu.com/samuelhandley/docs/online_zine

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Costings:

Because I own a lot of makeup and garments, and bevause of all the collaboration, I have not had to spend a fortune buying garments, makeup and renting equiptment, models or studios. However, I did keep a log of the spending for each section of the zine.

Process Hat: £15 Earrings: £4 Glitter for lips: £2.99 Glasses: £2

= £23.99

Tacky Travel: £30 Top: £12.99 Trousers: £45 Wig: £120

= £207.99 Unplugged Garments: £140 Custom pants: £30 Prosthetics: £12.99 Travel: £24.50

= £207.49 Outcast Vest: £2.99 Vintage Jeans: £22.50

= £25.49 Maternal Wig: £120 Earrings: £4 Belt: £4 Head wrap: £2.99

= £130.99 Dilapidated Fake Blood: £5.65 Bulbs: £7 Shoes: £114.99

= £127.64 Fierce Travel: £23.50 Paper for set: £25 Wig Caps: £1.99 Makeup Extras: £15 (approx)

= £65.19

Final printed publication: £55.14

Project total = £843.92

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Rationale

Introduction

In Context of Practice, I researched how a variety of fashion practitioners explored metamorphosis within their work, specifically through the art of drag. In this project I wanted to portray how I transform into my character using drag and gender exploration, and the effects that it has on ones self. I aimed to do this through six styled shoots, along with a shoot from my Context of Practice module. These shoots have been collated into a zine which aims to depict seven key feelings, emotions and effects that drag can have on ones self, both positive and negative.

I first became aware of the effects of drag as a 7 year old boy. At that age, I used to stay at my grandmothers every weekend, and would sometimes wear her wedding dress and 80s outfits (complete with costume jewellery) when playing with my younger sister. I remember whilst on the journey home, my dad turned to me and said ‘you do know that all the boys at school will think you’re gay and weird, be careful who you tell’. From then on I have been unfazed by others opinions of me, and have learnt that the only opinion I value is that of my own.

Huge shifts in social and political attitudes towards gender in the west within the last decade have heavily influenced the way in which the populace express themselves. Liberal attitudes towards gender and sexuality have given individuals the space to explore themselves in an experimental fashion. I have created my zine to bring awareness to the effects that drag can have on ones self and aimed to do this in a personal/biographical manner. Publications like the one I have created aim to bring awareness to the raw emotion and sacrifices that one has to make to do drag and explore gender creatively. Collaborating with a variety of photographers that have experience with the LGBTQ+ community ensure that the shoots are as empathetic and as powerful as possible.

My target market for Gothykendoll: Drag could be described as being obscure, however, the zine is aimed towards 16-28 year old individuals who wish to, or already are, exploring gender and drag themselves. I believe that an online subscription to Gothykendoll: Drag would be the best way to make money from my zine. However, independent book and magazine shops in large cities, such as Magma in Manchester and Village in Leeds, would be the best places to distribute and sell physical copies, as well as in large cities across the west such as London, Berlin and New York

The main competitors of my zine include then visual drag/queer based Plastik Magazine, set up in 2010 and sold in 50+ cities across the globe and Velour magazine, a twice yearly art based drag magazine set up by drag queen Sasha Velour and her partner Jonny. This magazines, currently, are mainly sold in New York and a hand full of cities throughout the US. Both of these publications are also available online and appeal to a similar audience as mine Zine, making them key competitors.

Over the past year or so I have been developing a strong personal makeup style and technique, something I wish to demonstrate in each shoot, showing my adaptability when it comes to makeup and styling.

Conclusion

In evaluation, my zine fulfils all criteria I set out at the start of the module. The flow between the shoots provides an easy to follow narrative, and the simple format in which my magazine is laid out ensures that each image, and subsequently each shoot, is able to have its own impact and speak for itself. Moreover, each shoot clearly communicates a certain emotion and/or feeling that one feels due to/when in drag and exploring gender. The eclectic mix of photography styles makes for an interesting and inspiring publication that really pushed my style and capabilities to new territories. This is, in part, thanks to collaborating with highly creative individuals that pushed me out of my comfort zone with their style and the way in which they work, but also my versatile capabilities.

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Zine Structure and Flow/Order Explained

Now that all of the shoots are complete and I am ready to put my zine together, I have carefully chosen an order that I am going to place each shoot to ensure that it is most effective.

Shoot One: Process

Shoot One is showing the process of getting ready, as well as portraying ones personal style.

Shoot Two: Tacky

Shoot Two represents how much of society sees queens as tacky and as gimiks, or comedic characters, rather than a serious expression of gender and style.

Shoot Three: Unplugged (from COP3)

Shoot three represents the angel and devil, the devil unplugging the angels halo, alowing darkness and negitivity in. In this case, allowing societys opinions and thought in.

Shoot Four: Outcast

How societys expectations and opinions make one feel like an outcast.

Shoot Five: Maternal

How one latches onto people who have similar experiences, in this case, a drag daughter, and how ones negative experiences can turn into positive mentoring to someone who is going through the same.

Shoot Six: Dilapidated

How all of this can make you feel weak and dilapidated.

Shoot Seven: Fierce

Through it all, one remains fierce and above it all. A sense of self confidence and belief is all one needs to power through and overcome the negativity.

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SHOOT SEVEN: UNPLUGGED

Collaboration with Corey Mullaney

After talking to Corey and setting up a date for a shoot, we went about coming up with a concept and story for the whole thing. Corey mentioned the idea of an ‘Angel and Devil’ inspired shoot. I loved the idea, and gave myself the job of being the devil to coincide with the ‘gothy’ part of my name. Corey works with Boohoo, and I asked if he was able to source some premium garments for the shoot in black and white to go with the theme.

Corey set up the set, and when we met, i looked at the set and garments and came up with a concept for the makeup. As a visual, I thought that prosthetic horns would reinforce the devil look. I decided to also do matching makeup looks, inspired by the wire face I had done earlier in the module, but slightly more ‘natural’ and coherent with the whole shoot.

Corey used a ringlight as a halo, and we used a shower cord as a power lead, and me ripping it apart as if I was in control.

Corey chooses one image and taked three days to edit it. The final image was, in my opinion, totally captivating, and embodies everything that I have researched and developed over the module. 

I believe this image is a culmination of everything reserached and developed during this module, and think that a zine (an idea I had previous) would be unessesary.

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FURTHER ZINE COVER DEVELOPMENT

The previous layout that I experimented with earlier in the module with the illustration ended up being way too busy and messy. Instead I have gone from a much more simple and, in my opinion, effective layout. Originally toying with the black, i decided a black on white would be most sharp, but needed a hint of colour. I have used Lilac in a range of shoots, and it seemed like the most obvious choice to me. I can also add the line to inside pages to add a sense of coherency. The QR code was, I though, a unique way to engage readers, giving them an easy was to access my instagram and see my latest work/projects. I am unsure as to wear to place this as of yet.

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SHOOT 6 OUTSIDER: FINAL IMAGES

I edited the images to give a more grainy gritty texture and apperance, reminicent of the london punk scene that the makeup is inspired by.

I: did the makeup, styled the shoot, directed the shoot and edited the images

Emily Upton (photographer): took the images

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SHOOT 6 OUTSIDER: UNEDITED IMAGES

These unedited images are a bit unimpactful and need some hue and lighting adjustments to enhance them. 

This shoot was actually a bit of a social experiment to see how people reacted to the makeup etc. and we actually had to end the shoot early due to nasty cat calling. I do like the intimacy and sporadity of the shoot however.

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SHOOT 6 OUTSIDER: MOODBOARD

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Shoot 6 Outsider: Inspo

Taking inspiration from the location shots by @Latex_lucifer and Karen Stanley earlier in the project, I plan on just walking around my neighbourhood and having photos taken in a very sporadic way. I think that the lack of organisation will show more emotion and uncomfortablity, and we will be able to get more reactions from the public.

I plan on doing a very ‘punkesque’ makeup look, and wearing casual clothing that I would typically wear.

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SHOOT 5 PROCESS: FINAL IMAGES

The final images are eyecatching and clearly show the process of getting ready.

The black and white images are intimate, documenting step by step each trick i do to turn into my character.

The coloured images are bright and add a sense of movement to the shoot. The way that the earing captures the light works particularly well. The striking colours add an 80s edge to the shooot adding to the vintage feel and reinforcing the 80s styling.

I: did the makeup, modeled, styled and edited

Hannah Black: Took the images.

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SHOOT 5 PROCESS: MOODBOARD

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SHOOT 5 PROCESS: INSPO

I was recently inspired by a shoot in DAZED VOL IV Spring 2018 by Roe Ethridge titled She’s Gotta Have It.

The photographer has captured model Lulu goinf through the process of trying on a range of designer garments and doing her makeup. These rather sporadic looking images gave me the idea to do a shoot where I was tranforming. I also really like the movement in some images, something I wish to capture in my shoot.

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SHOOT 4 MATERNAL: FINAL IMAGES

I am super happy with how these images turned out. Both myself and Joe Green (the other model playing ‘drag daughter’) look statuesque, confident and glamarous. Strength was a key message that I wanted to convey, showing how family and close ones can get you through tough and negative experiences.

I asked Hannah and Fran, the two photographers, to bring some coloured films to put over the flash to give a range of lighting effects, and the lilac/purple worked best. It really highlighted the shimmers in the makeup and the diamantes in the accessories and garments. The images without the films have a slightly vintage hue about them, tying in the styliing and the vintage clock set.

I: Was the MUA, styled and directed the shoot and modeled. I also edited the images.

Hannah and Fran: Took the images.

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SHOOT 4: MATERNAL IMAGES

Here are some images taken from the Maternal shoot. As you can see, the tricky lighting means that they need quite a lot of editing in photoshop. The colours however, are strong and vibrant, and I am extremely happy with the shoot.